In 50 yrs I have never “winterized” a bike. I park my bike on a rubber mat in my garage which gets cold but doesn’t freeze. By the way, northern Canada here. The bike will likely be parked 5 or 6 months. I make sure my gas tank is full to eliminate moisture in there. I put on a cycling trickle charger that runs the battery up and down. I will also put my bike cover on to minimize dust on it and that’s it. Come spring, fire it up and go. Have never had a single issue with a bike…ever.
Don't give up riding, I'm 61 and I can't even imagine stopping riding, and yeah there are alot of people on phones out in the world. But ride as long as you can. And thanks for goldwing docs.
I have always sprayed WD40 down the ends of the exhaust pipes when I lay up my 1983 GL1100 for the winter months. It must be doing something good as the bike still has its original exhaust pipes. I also do what you suggested and use plastic bags held on with a few elastic bands to seal up the open end of the pipes. One thing to add is that I use a dehumidifier in my garage to help keep the moisture level down. When I had my detached garage built I specified that it was double skinned and insulated. Using the dehumidifier in an insulated garage works really well, non of my classic bikes have ever suffered from issues with condensation forming on them.
I never start my engine when in storage and to prevent that desire I remove the battery, put it in the basement on a battery tender. You are absolutely right about storing your bike.
Agree with the most you said, except that the whole oil disappearse in the sump and leaves bare metal in the bearings. Thats just not true. A reasonable and protecive oilfilm stays there for months and months. Open the valve cover and then a bearing shell of the camshaft of any engine and you will see yourself.
Yes, I don't mean to say there is NO oil left on metal surfaces - but there is minimal film remaining, and certainly nowhere near the thickness of film during normal operation.
For those who like to do this, your procedure used to circulate oil through engine without starting it can be used to circulate oil through the engine by those who like to do that during the winter storage months. This way, no condensation is being created, and minimal engine wear occurs. In fact, I see no reason not to do the no start crank before starting the engine after it's been parked overnight. Even then, most, if not all of the oil is in the sump, just like it is when it's been parked for several months. Open the throttle, hit the starter (on the 18+ models, it will crank for about 3-4 seconds then stop cranking). That's plenty long enough to pump oil all through the engine. I think doing this would also decrease engine wear...
I ride my bike ( 1988 gl 1500) in all weather but snow and ice. The rain and cold doesn't bother me...I hesitate only after a long dry period. Sea foam and red devil are amazing products for prolonging the life of your wing.
The problem is that unlike cars, our bikes have zero rust protection, and lots of little nooks and crannies. Up here in Ohio, they cover everything in salt in winter, and that salt dust gets kicked up and gets into your bike. Add just a bit of moisture, and your bike ends up rusting like a 1970's Honda Civic. My bike doesn't come out in springtime until the last of the salt has been washed away by springtime rains.
WD stands for "water displacement". The 40 represents the 40th attempt at the formula. It was designed for use in the space program to remove moisture from components from the inside of the capsules as condensation could cause shorts between electrical connections and switches. Very little electrical insulation was used in the old Mercury/Gemini/Apollo days to save weight.
Exactly, it both cleans rust fairly well, and displaces moisture. However it does next to nothing to prevent rust once the carrier has evaporated. I would think that putting a ziplock over the end of the pipe and taping it closed with some painters tape would be much more effective.
Thank you very much, winterizing for my first time with my 95 Aspencade, just bought it this year, everything you have said makes very good sense and great explanations as to why.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I rode for 25 years as my main mode of transportation to get to work, in the heat and the rain year-round, but then I got older and traffic got way worse in Orlando in 85, they started running over cops on bikes so I figured it was time to stop, so quit for 35 years, now I'm back to doing it for fun and when I want to and no shorts on the Gold Wing
@@herbbates4713 I'm in Okeechobee. Yes, I rode for 10 years from early teens to my early 20's. Finally bought another motorcycle, gl 1500 94 almost 2 years ago. retired. ride it almost everyday for shopping or the pharmacy or a few 1-3 hour rides from time to time. I stay off of the interstates and highway 710 from indiantown to Okeechobee. I finally rode around the lake a few months ago and that was about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Always wanted to do that. I like the back way into orlando by 441 N.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I had my GL-1500 in Okeechobee last year in November and rode from the east side of the lake and then went to the west side till I hit 27, I love finding the back roads, but it is getting harder and harder to find, enjoy the ride
@@herbbates4713 Yes, I went around the east side of the lake and around the west side. I've been up 27 a few times up to highway 60. maybe we can do a ride someday this winter. I'm only good for a few hours though 4 or 5 would be pushing it for my back. but I have the backrest.
Canada has 10ppm sulfur content in gasoline, which is low, these regulations have been around for a while now. Using top tier stations and high octane(super) there are no ethanol in the gas. I disconnect the battery(both terminal). Yes !! you should not start your bike every so often during winter storage, I couldn't agree more with you !! Thanks for the vid, be well !
Hello Scott, I also use motor fog, it's a spray lubricant that you spray into the air intake with the filter removed, as the motor is burning up the gas in the carburetors. I also wipe the fork tube wit it. I also use a scissor jack with a piece of wood underneath the front motor mounts and raise the front tire about a quarter inch off the ground. I also have a box fan on a timer for fumes,. With the car, motorcycle, 3 lawnmowers and gas cans there's a smell of fumes that the fan helps disperse. I also use the products you mentioned. Thanks for the video, have a great day.
Store my 87 in a shed. Sometimes remember to put the trickle charger on. Always add stabil before I fill the gas tank before storage. Ride it into a shed and turn it off. Tried running it dry a few times but takes too much time. Draining is a pain. Bike sits for about eight months until I get back.
I have a honda cbf600 which has to be parked outside all winter long, which in UK usually means up to 8 months of wet, cold misery, so this video and it's chemical science addition is actually great knowledge to learn. Thanks
Last year i did everything you said wrong but i got away with it. This year im taking your advice but i waited to late here in Michigan it's December i have the battery tinder and the stabilizer and a full tank of gas I'm going to do the gas shutoff trick in the the morning and add wd to the exhaust then wait til spring and do the rest. Thanks for your knowledge on goldwings i have a 84.
That was very well described. That was actually excellent. I always wanted to know exactly what is the correct way of winterizing a motorcycle. Thanks so much for a great video. Cincinnati, Ohio.
By far the best video I have viewed! You are right about the Harbor Freight float chargers - I bought and used them on 10 of my bikes and within a week or two, they boiled the electrolyte out of every battery in the tune of around $1000.00 of damaged batteries. Unfortunately, I had the same thing happen with the Battery-tender brand - probably due to now being made in China as well. I take my batteries out, store them inside, and do a 2 amp charge for a few hours around once a month. Thank you for a great, informative video!
I boiled the electrolyte out of a BRAND NEW $110 motorcycle battery as well as a battery in a generator with a Harbor Freight float charger. Both batteries destroyed. Learned my lesson!! They're junk. The Battery Tender Jr however is fabulous. I have probably 6 of them plugged into various things, and I have had batteries last close to 10 years when they were left on the Battery Tender. They work great!
I’m not disputing you. Just telling you what two separate Honda dealers told me about winterizing my Goldwing: both said to treat the fuel with stabilizer as you suggested, and put it on a battery tender. Regarding the crankcase, both said DO NOT use Sea Foam. They said it is NOT compatible with some of the engine seals. Oil change? One said to stick to the mileage recommendations in the manual. The other said I could change it now or in the spring. I only have 3,000 miles on an oil and filter change by the Indian dealer I bought it from. That being said, I’m going to change it since I don’t know what they put in it and go with Amsoil. I feel like I’m in uncharted territory with my 2018 DCT with so many differing recommendations. Anyway, not criticizing, just informing. I don’t do my own maintenance. I’m fairly inept with machines. I break them over excessive periods of time and then wind up at the dealer! Lol! I fixed people, not machines!
Thank you for that great video, you and I have the same bike . I have a 1997 Gl1500 Aspencade. Upgraded sound system, custom lights. Ive had other cruisers, nothing matches a Goldwing!!!
Most important to me is fill fuel with non alcohol fuel, remember the first gallon coming out of the pump has alcohol in it put that in a can and use it in your car. Gasohol is poison for sure long term! I also put 2 cycle oil in my fuel for storage 1/2 oz per gallon.
Have to disagree on running the carbs dry when I had my '83. I did exactly what you said but then drained the float bowls. I placed a rag under the brass screws, loosened, and collected about a Tablespoon or more of fuel from each of the bowls. Only then were they fully empty. Playing with the throttle and choke as it sputtered worked to burn more fuel, but I always drained the bowls afterwards.
For, sure, and the carbs are much more accessible on the 1100's (even though there's four of them). The carb drains on the 1500 are a nightmare to get to. But consider the difference between a full carb bowl and a tablespoon - much less left to evaporate, so less lacquer or residue.
As I mention in the video, I change my oil religiously, every 3000-4000 miles. The problem is that there is very little circulation at the back of the engine, and that's where the sludge collects, even when the oil is changed often. This was my GL1100, which was 30+ years old at the time, so it had decades of sludge in there, despite the frequent oil changes.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv this past winter had a few super cold streaks with ice and snow, but normally it's 60s and 70s all winter with a couple of weeks of bitter cold.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv yes, I have Esselstyn books, videos, went to the Cleveland clinic, been through his seminars, eaten his wife's cooking, and more. I am just not going to eat a cup of boiled greens 6 times a day. But I watch Dr Gregors videos and many others, too. I prefer the starch solution. But I am about to start a new program from another one of the docs.
As long as they aren't touching the bodywork, they work OK. They keep the rain and snow off, but they don't help against moisture - not like being inside a garage. There's also a potential for critters to move in and make your bike their home, so you might want to take precautions against that as well.
Is it a good idea to put chainsaw-petrol in the empty tank and run it? I tried this last year and after the wintersleep it started on second attempt. By the way, i used the 2-stroke which i had sitting for some five year, i first tried it in the chainsaw and that ran fine. It is a synthetic petrol. For a battery i use a lithiumion battery that gives a real cold kickstart (the coldcrankcurrent is really higher than the leadbattery) AND it hardly discharges over the 3 month-winterstop, little disadvantage is the lower Ah's so you cannot crank it for, say, 5 min's. It is now 7 years old. Greetingzz from cold rainy NL.
I can't speak to chainsaw petrol (two-stroke, with oil added?) - that's one I had not heard of before! Lithium batteries are great and lightweight, but they have a real problem putting out current in cold temperatures. You have to turn the bike on, let the headlight etc. draw some current for a minute or two to warm up the battery, then try starting the bike.
I've had good luck with Seafoam in the fuel over winter (for the most part). My concern with using it in the oil would be any complications with the clutch. Since it is a wet clutch, are there any concerns about clutch slippage or other damage by using Seafoam in the oil? Some of suggested adding Seafoam to the oil and running 200+ miles or more, then changing oil. Yes/no?
It's not going to damage your clutch. Most of the wet clutch issues are from using automotive oil with friction modifiers. Like I said, you're going to want to be gentle riding, as the viscosity will be lower, but that won't affect your clutch operation or condition. I don't think I would run 200+ miles with Seafoam in the oil - first, it's not really needed for that long (a good hour ride at most), and second, keep in mind the oil viscosity is slightly lower.
Can you use seafoam not just to winterize your bike? If you can how? Just to clean out carbs. Do you add and just run it out in a few hours? Curious thanks.
Oh yeah and I forgot to add, exactly how do you turn off the switch and still crank the engine? That's a trick I would like to see accomplished. I have three bikes and the starter does NOT work with the switch turned off. Or did I misunderstand your meaning?
All Goldwings up until 1997 will crank with the kill switch turned off, believe it or not. It wasn't until the 1997 model year that Honda made the switch to disallow them from cranking with the kill switch off!
You lost me at putting seafoam in your crankcase. I've seen too many engines destroyed by that stuff from using it in the gas. Putting it in your crankcase is lunacy.
@@jasonvsd For the most part I totally agree with that statement, however as long as you have lubercation and unless you subject the engine to undue stress, a bit of solvent in the oil to clean out sludge shouldn't hurt. Now having said that, when I have used crankcase cleaners, I never moved the bike (or car), I do elevate the rear wheel (bike) and engage the transmission but only let it idle. They make cleaners specifically for cleaning sludge out of the crankcase, but every one that I have seen say to idle the engine ONLY. Weather Seafoam is better or worse at cleaning sludge than the commercial products intended solely for that purpose I have no idea.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I can put on warm riding clothes and heated gear and stay toasty warm right down to freezing. But when it gets hot outside...your only option is to, well, be hot!
@@GoldwingDocs Or ride naked. Or pocket t-shirts and shorts. I do the latter. I've always loved the heat over the cold being born and raised in Western Pa. until I was 19. Then I went into the Navy and have moved around since until I found south florida was my right temp all year round. But during the winter months it will drop down into the 30's or sometimes the 20's overnight for a few hours and warm back up again in the morning. My last 2 years in high school my cousin rode our small motorcycles to school everyday to avoid riding the bus. There's a picture in the school year book with deep snow and ours and a few others motorcycles in the parking lot. Anything not to ride a bus. 😃
First of all thanks for all you do, HOWEVER, there you are sitting on a fuel injected Goldwing talking about winterizing a bike with carburators. Silly don't ya think? And a little trick for you that has been extensively tested by a engineeer member of a Valkyrie club is this simple. Get a can of high quality Marine 2 cycle oil and add 1.5 oz. to the gas and it will both stabilize the fuel and help with cleaning and corrosion in the upper end of the engine. The third thing I am going to say is I have NEVER had seafoam do a damn thing positive to any engine I added it to. EVER. Had three boats, tried it multiple times for cleaning the carbs and it didn't do shit. Used it by way of fogging and added to the gas. Zip, nada nothing. Now it very well may clean out sludge in the crankcase and I am going to try that for sure. I just purchased a 2008 Wing with 60,000 miles on it. So thanks for that suggestion! And of course you should mention to do it at a normal oil change so you don't waste a complete oil change worth of oil and filter.
First off...you're mistaken. The GL1500 I'm sitting on has two carburetors, one feeding each bank of three cylinders! With the exception of a single model year of GL1200 from the 1980's, fuel injection didn't hit the Goldwings until the GL1800 came along in 2001. One other benefit of Seafoam in the crankcase that I didn't mention - if your bike has hydraulic lifters (like this one does) that are starting to tap because they're clogged, Seafoam will usually clean those out and fix that problem as well. I have definitely had Seafoam fix a sluggish accelerator pump jet with it in the fuel. The trick is to get it in there BEFORE the jet is completely clogged.
In 50 yrs I have never “winterized” a bike. I park my bike on a rubber mat in my garage which gets cold but doesn’t freeze. By the way, northern Canada here. The bike will likely be parked 5 or 6 months. I make sure my gas tank is full to eliminate moisture in there. I put on a cycling trickle charger that runs the battery up and down. I will also put my bike cover on to minimize dust on it and that’s it. Come spring, fire it up and go. Have never had a single issue with a bike…ever.
Don't give up riding, I'm 61 and I can't even imagine stopping riding, and yeah there are alot of people on phones out in the world. But ride as long as you can. And thanks for goldwing docs.
Tom, I am 78 and still ride two bikes I hope I never have to quit.
Thank you brother. With all the tips you have given us over the years, my 1995 Gl1500 is gonna run forever. Long Live The Wing!!
Here in the AZ desert, our bike season is just starting. We ride in winter months here until about late April.
Great review/tutorial on winterizing!
Just bought a 1993 goldwing. Glad I found this channel.
I have always sprayed WD40 down the ends of the exhaust pipes when I lay up my 1983 GL1100 for the winter months. It must be doing something good as the bike still has its original exhaust pipes. I also do what you suggested and use plastic bags held on with a few elastic bands to seal up the open end of the pipes. One thing to add is that I use a dehumidifier in my garage to help keep the moisture level down. When I had my detached garage built I specified that it was double skinned and insulated. Using the dehumidifier in an insulated garage works really well, non of my classic bikes have ever suffered from issues with condensation forming on them.
Excellent suggestions!
I never start my engine when in storage and to prevent that desire I remove the battery, put it in the basement on a battery tender. You are absolutely right about storing your bike.
I completely agree, don't fire up the engine unless you want to go on a ride.
Agree with the most you said, except that the whole oil disappearse in the sump and leaves bare metal in the bearings. Thats just not true. A reasonable and protecive oilfilm stays there for months and months. Open the valve cover and then a bearing shell of the camshaft of any engine and you will see yourself.
Yes, I don't mean to say there is NO oil left on metal surfaces - but there is minimal film remaining, and certainly nowhere near the thickness of film during normal operation.
For those who like to do this, your procedure used to circulate oil through engine without starting it can be used to circulate oil through the engine by those who like to do that during the winter storage months. This way, no condensation is being created, and minimal engine wear occurs. In fact, I see no reason not to do the no start crank before starting the engine after it's been parked overnight. Even then, most, if not all of the oil is in the sump, just like it is when it's been parked for several months. Open the throttle, hit the starter (on the 18+ models, it will crank for about 3-4 seconds then stop cranking). That's plenty long enough to pump oil all through the engine. I think doing this would also decrease engine wear...
I ride my bike ( 1988 gl 1500) in all weather but snow and ice. The rain and cold doesn't bother me...I hesitate only after a long dry period. Sea foam and red devil are amazing products for prolonging the life of your wing.
The problem is that unlike cars, our bikes have zero rust protection, and lots of little nooks and crannies. Up here in Ohio, they cover everything in salt in winter, and that salt dust gets kicked up and gets into your bike. Add just a bit of moisture, and your bike ends up rusting like a 1970's Honda Civic. My bike doesn't come out in springtime until the last of the salt has been washed away by springtime rains.
WD stands for "water displacement". The 40 represents the 40th attempt at the formula. It was designed for use in the space program to remove moisture from components from the inside of the capsules as condensation could cause shorts between electrical connections and switches. Very little electrical insulation was used in the old Mercury/Gemini/Apollo days to save weight.
Exactly, it both cleans rust fairly well, and displaces moisture. However it does next to nothing to prevent rust once the carrier has evaporated. I would think that putting a ziplock over the end of the pipe and taping it closed with some painters tape would be much more effective.
Thank you very much, winterizing for my first time with my 95 Aspencade, just bought it this year, everything you have said makes very good sense and great explanations as to why.
For Florida people, it is when we start riding them as it was too hot all summer to enjoy riding
I ride in south florida no matter what the heat is in my shorts and pocket t shirts. 😃
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I rode for 25 years as my main mode of transportation to get to work, in the heat and the rain year-round, but then I got older and traffic got way worse in Orlando in 85, they started running over cops on bikes so I figured it was time to stop, so quit for 35 years, now I'm back to doing it for fun and when I want to and no shorts on the Gold Wing
@@herbbates4713 I'm in Okeechobee. Yes, I rode for 10 years from early teens to my early 20's. Finally bought another motorcycle, gl 1500 94 almost 2 years ago. retired. ride it almost everyday for shopping or the pharmacy or a few 1-3 hour rides from time to time. I stay off of the interstates and highway 710 from indiantown to Okeechobee. I finally rode around the lake a few months ago and that was about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Always wanted to do that. I like the back way into orlando by 441 N.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I had my GL-1500 in Okeechobee last year in November and rode from the east side of the lake and then went to the west side till I hit 27, I love finding the back roads, but it is getting harder and harder to find, enjoy the ride
@@herbbates4713 Yes, I went around the east side of the lake and around the west side. I've been up 27 a few times up to highway 60. maybe we can do a ride someday this winter. I'm only good for a few hours though 4 or 5 would be pushing it for my back. but I have the backrest.
I am so glad i watched this, ok i don't ride a wing but it will apply to my bike anyway. thanks for the tips.
I always lubricate all my switches, key holes, levers and rejuvenate rubber, leather and plastic so it doesn't look dried up in the spring.
Great suggestion, some graphite spray into each of the locks will definitely help.
Canada has 10ppm sulfur content in gasoline, which is low, these regulations have been around for a while now. Using top tier stations and high octane(super) there are no ethanol in the gas. I disconnect the battery(both terminal). Yes !! you should not start your bike every so often during winter storage, I couldn't agree more with you !!
Thanks for the vid, be well !
Hello Scott, I also use motor fog, it's a spray lubricant that you spray into the air intake with the filter removed, as the motor is burning up the gas in the carburetors. I also wipe the fork tube wit it. I also use a scissor jack with a piece of wood underneath the front motor mounts and raise the front tire about a quarter inch off the ground. I also have a box fan on a timer for fumes,. With the car, motorcycle, 3 lawnmowers and gas cans there's a smell of fumes that the fan helps disperse. I also use the products you mentioned. Thanks for the video, have a great day.
Great ideas!
Testing has shown most fuel stabilizer are worst than nothing , best is pure gas without any gumming up ethanol .
Store my 87 in a shed. Sometimes remember to put the trickle charger on. Always add stabil before I fill the gas tank before storage. Ride it into a shed and turn it off. Tried running it dry a few times but takes too much time. Draining is a pain. Bike sits for about eight months until I get back.
Dont leave your tires on concrete. Concrete contains lye and will dry rot your tires. Place plywood under each tire while in storage
I have a honda cbf600 which has to be parked outside all winter long, which in UK usually means up to 8 months of wet, cold misery, so this video and it's chemical science addition is actually great knowledge to learn. Thanks
Last year i did everything you said wrong but i got away with it. This year im taking your advice but i waited to late here in Michigan it's December i have the battery tinder and the stabilizer and a full tank of gas I'm going to do the gas shutoff trick in the the morning and add wd to the exhaust then wait til spring and do the rest. Thanks for your knowledge on goldwings i have a 84.
That was very well described. That was actually excellent. I always wanted to know exactly what is the correct way of winterizing a motorcycle. Thanks so much for a great video. Cincinnati, Ohio.
I use Marvel’s Mystery Oil in a tankful, after a tankful with Sea Foam, each year. I also use some in the oil.
By far the best video I have viewed! You are right about the Harbor Freight float chargers - I bought and used them on 10 of my bikes and within a week or two, they boiled the electrolyte out of every battery in the tune of around $1000.00 of damaged batteries. Unfortunately, I had the same thing happen with the Battery-tender brand - probably due to now being made in China as well. I take my batteries out, store them inside, and do a 2 amp charge for a few hours around once a month. Thank you for a great, informative video!
I boiled the electrolyte out of a BRAND NEW $110 motorcycle battery as well as a battery in a generator with a Harbor Freight float charger. Both batteries destroyed. Learned my lesson!! They're junk.
The Battery Tender Jr however is fabulous. I have probably 6 of them plugged into various things, and I have had batteries last close to 10 years when they were left on the Battery Tender. They work great!
@@GoldwingDocs Ok, thank you for the info!
I’m not disputing you. Just telling you what two separate Honda dealers told me about winterizing my Goldwing: both said to treat the fuel with stabilizer as you suggested, and put it on a battery tender. Regarding the crankcase, both said DO NOT use Sea Foam. They said it is NOT compatible with some of the engine seals. Oil change? One said to stick to the mileage recommendations in the manual. The other said I could change it now or in the spring. I only have 3,000 miles on an oil and filter change by the Indian dealer I bought it from. That being said, I’m going to change it since I don’t know what they put in it and go with Amsoil. I feel like I’m in uncharted territory with my 2018 DCT with so many differing recommendations. Anyway, not criticizing, just informing. I don’t do my own maintenance. I’m fairly inept with machines. I break them over excessive periods of time and then wind up at the dealer! Lol! I fixed people, not machines!
Thank you for that great video, you and I have the same bike . I have a 1997 Gl1500 Aspencade. Upgraded sound system, custom lights. Ive had other cruisers, nothing matches a Goldwing!!!
New owner here, good information, thank you.
Most important to me is fill fuel with non alcohol fuel, remember the first gallon coming out of the pump has alcohol in it put that in a can and use it in your car. Gasohol is poison for sure long term! I also put 2 cycle oil in my fuel for storage 1/2 oz per gallon.
100% agreed, and I mentioned that in the video: we have ethanol-free gas here, you can find some near you at www.pure-gas.org/
My 93 will crank with the stop switch in the "off" position
Honda changed it in 1997. 1997 and newer will not crank with the switch in "Off".
Thank you Scott keep up the good work
I never knew about using seafoam in the crankcase...makes sense though...I did know about using it in the fuel, good stuff!
Have to disagree on running the carbs dry when I had my '83. I did exactly what you said but then drained the float bowls. I placed a rag under the brass screws, loosened, and collected about a Tablespoon or more of fuel from each of the bowls. Only then were they fully empty. Playing with the throttle and choke as it sputtered worked to burn more fuel, but I always drained the bowls afterwards.
For, sure, and the carbs are much more accessible on the 1100's (even though there's four of them). The carb drains on the 1500 are a nightmare to get to.
But consider the difference between a full carb bowl and a tablespoon - much less left to evaporate, so less lacquer or residue.
My understanding of the sta-bil marine, is that it puts a coating in your fuel system even the carburetors so you don’t have to drain the carburetors
Doesn't anyone bring their bike in the house anymore???
I should have qualified myself I ran my own small engine repair shop for 17 years.
Tried to tell my buddy this. Just cant change some.
Es una honda goldwing modelo 86 motor 1200 fuel injecciones
I love your videos thank you very much for posting
Another great one! Thanks, Scott...I have been guilty of many of the "do nots." I learned something. Ill be doing it right this year. Thanks again!
Thank you very much
Bueno días si me pudieras ayudar no tengo pulso en los inyectores y en las bujías no hay chispa me pueden ayudar porfa estoy desesperado
I rebuilt my starter and it spinning backwards
Thank You!
5:00 " I was astounded at the clumps of goo that came out of my engine". Somebody needs to change their oil more often😮😬
As I mention in the video, I change my oil religiously, every 3000-4000 miles. The problem is that there is very little circulation at the back of the engine, and that's where the sludge collects, even when the oil is changed often. This was my GL1100, which was 30+ years old at the time, so it had decades of sludge in there, despite the frequent oil changes.
don't really put the bike away for the winter ... here in Texas, we can ride almost year round. there are only a few weeks per year that we can't ride
I lived in beaumont tx. back in the early 80's with a gl 1000. I had to ride it all winter. I had thermal coveralls to wear when it was really cold. 😃
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv this past winter had a few super cold streaks with ice and snow, but normally it's 60s and 70s all winter with a couple of weeks of bitter cold.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv yes sir. But whole food plant based ... not as strict as the diet. Starch based like Dr McDougal
@@DennysPlantBasedJourney Mine is dr. caldwell esselstyn of the Cleveland clinic in cleveland Ohio.Not familiar with McDougal.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv yes, I have Esselstyn books, videos, went to the Cleveland clinic, been through his seminars, eaten his wife's cooking, and more. I am just not going to eat a cup of boiled greens 6 times a day. But I watch Dr Gregors videos and many others, too. I prefer the starch solution. But I am about to start a new program from another one of the docs.
are motorcycle domes ok your thoughts please
As long as they aren't touching the bodywork, they work OK. They keep the rain and snow off, but they don't help against moisture - not like being inside a garage. There's also a potential for critters to move in and make your bike their home, so you might want to take precautions against that as well.
Fantastic information thankyou ! regards from steve uk 🇬🇧
Is it a good idea to put chainsaw-petrol in the empty tank and run it? I tried this last year and after the wintersleep it started on second attempt. By the way, i used the 2-stroke which i had sitting for some five year, i first tried it in the chainsaw and that ran fine. It is a synthetic petrol.
For a battery i use a lithiumion battery that gives a real cold kickstart (the coldcrankcurrent is really higher than the leadbattery) AND it hardly discharges over the 3 month-winterstop, little disadvantage is the lower Ah's so you cannot crank it for, say, 5 min's. It is now 7 years old.
Greetingzz from cold rainy NL.
I can't speak to chainsaw petrol (two-stroke, with oil added?) - that's one I had not heard of before!
Lithium batteries are great and lightweight, but they have a real problem putting out current in cold temperatures. You have to turn the bike on, let the headlight etc. draw some current for a minute or two to warm up the battery, then try starting the bike.
I've had good luck with Seafoam in the fuel over winter (for the most part). My concern with using it in the oil would be any complications with the clutch. Since it is a wet clutch, are there any concerns about clutch slippage or other damage by using Seafoam in the oil?
Some of suggested adding Seafoam to the oil and running 200+ miles or more, then changing oil. Yes/no?
It's not going to damage your clutch. Most of the wet clutch issues are from using automotive oil with friction modifiers. Like I said, you're going to want to be gentle riding, as the viscosity will be lower, but that won't affect your clutch operation or condition.
I don't think I would run 200+ miles with Seafoam in the oil - first, it's not really needed for that long (a good hour ride at most), and second, keep in mind the oil viscosity is slightly lower.
Can you use seafoam not just to winterize your bike? If you can how? Just to clean out carbs. Do you add and just run it out in a few hours? Curious thanks.
I've got the 2022 BD with different handlebar switches. Can you tell me how to do that no start engine crank on this model? thanks!
What type of Windshield do you have on your Goldwing?
It's a Tall Tulsa. The company no longer exists, unfortunately.
curious to know how would you measure a half can of seafoam
How about a video on optimizing MPG. I get 37mpg. I’m 6’- 300lbs.
Great idea! This is actually being talked about RIGHT NOW on the forum: goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=64530
When you add 1/2 can of SeaFoam to the crankcase, have you removed any oil before that to make room?
Not normally, as by the end of the season, the amount of oil burned/lost is more than the 8 oz of Seafoam that would go into it.
Oh yeah and I forgot to add, exactly how do you turn off the switch and still crank the engine? That's a trick I would like to see accomplished. I have three bikes and the starter does NOT work with the switch turned off. Or did I misunderstand your meaning?
All Goldwings up until 1997 will crank with the kill switch turned off, believe it or not. It wasn't until the 1997 model year that Honda made the switch to disallow them from cranking with the kill switch off!
@@GoldwingDocs Well imagine that! So what is the point of the kill switch lol. ? Anyway thanks for clarifying that ! Much appreciated.
It still kills the ignition - I've used it to shut the bike down when I couldn't take my hand off the throttle to reach the key switch!
You lost me at putting seafoam in your crankcase. I've seen too many engines destroyed by that stuff from using it in the gas. Putting it in your crankcase is lunacy.
Oil goes in the crankcase and gas goes in the gas tank. Leave all the "potions" on the shelf at walmart.
@@jasonvsd For the most part I totally agree with that statement, however as long as you have lubercation and unless you subject the engine to undue stress, a bit of solvent in the oil to clean out sludge shouldn't hurt. Now having said that, when I have used crankcase cleaners, I never moved the bike (or car), I do elevate the rear wheel (bike) and engage the transmission but only let it idle. They make cleaners specifically for cleaning sludge out of the crankcase, but every one that I have seen say to idle the engine ONLY. Weather Seafoam is better or worse at cleaning sludge than the commercial products intended solely for that purpose I have no idea.
Hey I didn't know that 🤔👍🏿 all of what you just said 😅
Nice!
Move to south florida. 😃
Then you have to put your bike away for the summer, because it's too hot to ride! :)
@@GoldwingDocs NEVER!!! I would rather sweat to death than freeze to death. 😁
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I can put on warm riding clothes and heated gear and stay toasty warm right down to freezing. But when it gets hot outside...your only option is to, well, be hot!
@@GoldwingDocs Or ride naked. Or pocket t-shirts and shorts. I do the latter. I've always loved the heat over the cold being born and raised in Western Pa. until I was 19. Then I went into the Navy and have moved around since until I found south florida was my right temp all year round. But during the winter months it will drop down into the 30's or sometimes the 20's overnight for a few hours and warm back up again in the morning. My last 2 years in high school my cousin rode our small motorcycles to school everyday to avoid riding the bus. There's a picture in the school year book with deep snow and ours and a few others motorcycles in the parking lot. Anything not to ride a bus. 😃
great!
First of all thanks for all you do, HOWEVER, there you are sitting on a fuel injected Goldwing talking about winterizing a bike with carburators. Silly don't ya think? And a little trick for you that has been extensively tested by a engineeer member of a Valkyrie club is this simple. Get a can of high quality Marine 2 cycle oil and add 1.5 oz. to the gas and it will both stabilize the fuel and help with cleaning and corrosion in the upper end of the engine. The third thing I am going to say is I have NEVER had seafoam do a damn thing positive to any engine I added it to. EVER. Had three boats, tried it multiple times for cleaning the carbs and it didn't do shit. Used it by way of fogging and added to the gas. Zip, nada nothing. Now it very well may clean out sludge in the crankcase and I am going to try that for sure. I just purchased a 2008 Wing with 60,000 miles on it. So thanks for that suggestion! And of course you should mention to do it at a normal oil change so you don't waste a complete oil change worth of oil and filter.
First off...you're mistaken. The GL1500 I'm sitting on has two carburetors, one feeding each bank of three cylinders! With the exception of a single model year of GL1200 from the 1980's, fuel injection didn't hit the Goldwings until the GL1800 came along in 2001.
One other benefit of Seafoam in the crankcase that I didn't mention - if your bike has hydraulic lifters (like this one does) that are starting to tap because they're clogged, Seafoam will usually clean those out and fix that problem as well.
I have definitely had Seafoam fix a sluggish accelerator pump jet with it in the fuel. The trick is to get it in there BEFORE the jet is completely clogged.
@@GoldwingDocs Sorry my bad, thought it was newer.
Just keep riding it. Then you font have to. Lol
Hard to do in a few feet of snow!
@@GoldwingDocs that's when it gets fun. Lol here in washington state we just get rain.