I have two roof framers bibles. One in the truck and one at home. I use it to cross reference and double check myself all the time. Fantastic books I really like how the numbers are given for hips at outside corners. You’re awesome man and I love framing. 27 years in Michigan I have been at it by the grace of God. Really appreciate you giving tutorials on UA-cam. I got all sim Ayer’s books which is a while other can of worms, but wood working is art. Keep up the awesome work man. Just wanted to take a second to thank you for sharing your knowledge in a book and tell you how valuable it really is. Can’t stress it enough.
I’m so thankful for this channel! You guys are awesome explaining everything in detail! Going to order my framers bible soon! Please make a video on framing exterior walls 😊
I hope you continue with the videos to include valleys and irregular valleys. Does it benefit you more to buy your book from your website or Amazon? Want to ensure you’re receiving as much as possible for your work thanks again
It doesn't make a difference where you buy it. All our books are shipped by Amazon regardless of where you order. We have found that most customers expect very quick delivery and Amazon is the only way we can give them that. Thanks for watching!
In a case where the hip already has the backing bevels applied would it also be feasible to measure the hap down from the top of the plum line on the 8/12 side of the hip to mark the birds mouth seat cut?
Yes, if I am understanding you correctly, that would work just fine. The H.A.P. would be the same as the 8/12 common at that point. Thanks for watching!
I believe If you cut the birds mouth at the appropriate angle (56 in this case) I believe this will essentially allow the HAP to be correct at the building line. Which means there will be no need to drop the hip or even back (assuming not a large beam because then gap between sheet and hip will be to great) this is the same concept talked about by clipping corner at 45 on a normal hip mentioned in will holladay’s book RCS. Is this accurate or am I missing something. I’m going to try and build a small model to verify.
Certainly there is more than one way to do it. You can do as you say and clip the corner of the plate, or move the birdsmouth notch. This will shift the hip towards the ridge (up slope). Doing that will have the same effect as dropping the hip. That isn't how I do it. I find it easier to keep it straight in my head by dropping the hip. Thanks for watching!
Much respect to you sir and your videos, just received your book, its packed full of info. I do have a question though. Plumb cut on birds mouth hip rafter. Is that cut on a bevel or square cut? Appears to be cut square on video, if so hip would not be tight against plates, or does dimension in book already have that figured in. Thank you.
The hip length is calculated at the center of the hip rafter. If it were hitting on the corner of the wall then I just cut it square which would mean of course that it would only be touching the corner of the plate at the center of the hip. If it is offset from the corner (hip offset) I first cut it square, but then bevel back the side that would prevent it from setting up tight to the plate. Of course in most applications the cornice will cover all of these cuts, so they don't need to fit on both sides. You just want to cut the one side "cheek cut" so that the center of the hip can meet tight to the plate and properly align the hip rafter. Thanks for watching!
The factor chart allows you to quickly go from the value that you have to the value that you need. In the case of the hip tail length we can use the run of the high pitch side to get the length of the hip rafter, or in this case the length of the hip tail. So, since a bastard hip will always cross off of the corner of the wall to the high pitch side, we will use the overhang length (12" in the video) on the high pitch side to enter the factor chart, so 12" x 2.062 = 24.744", or rounded to 24 3/4" for the hip tail. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBiblethank you! I get it now, the hip rafter is married to the high pitch side for all its calculations. I’m shortening the over hang on the higher pitch to avoid building up the wall plate. As I’m understanding it, there isn’t anything else to factor when cutting the birds mouth to match the 12” overhang on the shallow pitch, the overhang reduction covers it all? Learning a lot. Thanks again.
On a bastard roof using the same height on the top plate and different width overhangs are haps the same all the way around.ie: for the low pitch side , the high pitch side and the hip rafters?
Typically they would be, since that is the easiest. If you are already varying the overhang then it is just easiest to make all the adjustment in the overhang difference. Of course you could vary the H.A.P. and adjust the overhang difference to account for it, but that adds complexity and is not usually done. Good luck and thanks for watching!
No, the pitch is what it is. We were going from the end of the tail. The 12/12 rafter rises from that point. Since it is rising steeply we have to add the plates to get high enough bearing for those rafters. Everything works from the "fascia point". Both pitches start from there. Thanks for watching!
I have the book, I’m starting to learn how to use it and calculate, I normally use the calculator, I’m still an apprentice,. I do know that in the calculator you take off the high difference from the higher pitch to get the irregular. But I don’t understand how to do it on the book. I have a 8/12 and 15/12 my span is 26’ 4” +24’ overhang, total 28’ 4’
To get the 0.533 is very easy. You just take 8 and divide by 15. The others take a multi-step calculation. I don't have space to explain it here. The factor chart lets you avoid a string of calculations. You can get what you need by multiplying by a single number. That is the point of it, to make it quick and simple. Thanks for watching and good luck!@@jm3287
The vertical cut on the end of the tails will vary by preference and finish fascia size. For a 1x6 fascia I usually use 4" on the common rafters, and of course the hip would be the same. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! Be sure and check out our playlist for all of our videos
ua-cam.com/play/PLnAGFrVJFLUvFnLYGOE40E3ye9vtuXjY8.html
I have two roof framers bibles. One in the truck and one at home. I use it to cross reference and double check myself all the time. Fantastic books I really like how the numbers are given for hips at outside corners. You’re awesome man and I love framing. 27 years in Michigan I have been at it by the grace of God. Really appreciate you giving tutorials on UA-cam. I got all sim Ayer’s books which is a while other can of worms, but wood working is art. Keep up the awesome work man. Just wanted to take a second to thank you for sharing your knowledge in a book and tell you how valuable it really is. Can’t stress it enough.
Wow! Thank you so much. It is great to hear from you. I appreciate you taking the time to write! Thanks for watching!
I’m so thankful for this channel! You guys are awesome explaining everything in detail! Going to order my framers bible soon! Please make a video on framing exterior walls 😊
Thanks for watching!
Just bought a copy. What a great source of information. Thank you sir
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
I hope you continue with the videos to include valleys and irregular valleys. Does it benefit you more to buy your book from your website or Amazon? Want to ensure you’re receiving as much as possible for your work thanks again
It doesn't make a difference where you buy it. All our books are shipped by Amazon regardless of where you order. We have found that most customers expect very quick delivery and Amazon is the only way we can give them that. Thanks for watching!
Very informative.Answers a lot of my questions. Happy new year. Thankyou.👍
Happy new year!
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir!
You are welcome!
In a case where the hip already has the backing bevels applied would it also be feasible to measure the hap down from the top of the plum line on the 8/12 side of the hip to mark the birds mouth seat cut?
Yes, if I am understanding you correctly, that would work just fine. The H.A.P. would be the same as the 8/12 common at that point. Thanks for watching!
thanks sir for this video it helps a lot
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
I believe If you cut the birds mouth at the appropriate angle (56 in this case) I believe this will essentially allow the HAP to be correct at the building line. Which means there will be no need to drop the hip or even back (assuming not a large beam because then gap between sheet and hip will be to great) this is the same concept talked about by clipping corner at 45 on a normal hip mentioned in will holladay’s book RCS. Is this accurate or am I missing something. I’m going to try and build a small model to verify.
Certainly there is more than one way to do it. You can do as you say and clip the corner of the plate, or move the birdsmouth notch. This will shift the hip towards the ridge (up slope). Doing that will have the same effect as dropping the hip. That isn't how I do it. I find it easier to keep it straight in my head by dropping the hip. Thanks for watching!
Much respect to you sir and your videos, just received your book, its packed full of info. I do have a question though. Plumb cut on birds mouth hip rafter. Is that cut on a bevel or square cut? Appears to be cut square on video, if so hip would not be tight against plates, or does dimension in book already have that figured in. Thank you.
The hip length is calculated at the center of the hip rafter. If it were hitting on the corner of the wall then I just cut it square which would mean of course that it would only be touching the corner of the plate at the center of the hip. If it is offset from the corner (hip offset) I first cut it square, but then bevel back the side that would prevent it from setting up tight to the plate. Of course in most applications the cornice will cover all of these cuts, so they don't need to fit on both sides. You just want to cut the one side "cheek cut" so that the center of the hip can meet tight to the plate and properly align the hip rafter. Thanks for watching!
Confused on how to measure the hip tail using the factor chart. You pulled up 24 3/4" from the tail. Where did you get that number?
The factor chart allows you to quickly go from the value that you have to the value that you need. In the case of the hip tail length we can use the run of the high pitch side to get the length of the hip rafter, or in this case the length of the hip tail. So, since a bastard hip will always cross off of the corner of the wall to the high pitch side, we will use the overhang length (12" in the video) on the high pitch side to enter the factor chart, so 12" x 2.062 = 24.744", or rounded to 24 3/4" for the hip tail. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBiblethank you! I get it now, the hip rafter is married to the high pitch side for all its calculations. I’m shortening the over hang on the higher pitch to avoid building up the wall plate. As I’m understanding it, there isn’t anything else to factor when cutting the birds mouth to match the 12” overhang on the shallow pitch, the overhang reduction covers it all? Learning a lot. Thanks again.
On a bastard roof using the same height on the top plate and different width overhangs are haps the same all the way around.ie: for the low pitch side , the high pitch side and the hip rafters?
Typically they would be, since that is the easiest. If you are already varying the overhang then it is just easiest to make all the adjustment in the overhang difference. Of course you could vary the H.A.P. and adjust the overhang difference to account for it, but that adds complexity and is not usually done. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi guys
Great video.
I’m being dumb. But wouldn’t raising the wall plate change the pitch?
No, the pitch is what it is. We were going from the end of the tail. The 12/12 rafter rises from that point. Since it is rising steeply we have to add the plates to get high enough bearing for those rafters. Everything works from the "fascia point". Both pitches start from there. Thanks for watching!
I have the book, I’m starting to learn how to use it and calculate, I normally use the calculator, I’m still an apprentice,.
I do know that in the calculator you take off the high difference from the higher pitch to get the irregular. But I don’t understand how to do it on the book.
I have a 8/12 and 15/12 my span is 26’ 4” +24’ overhang, total 28’ 4’
I don't have the full context of your question. I'm not sure what you are specifically asking.
@@RoofFramersBiblemy question is, how did you get the 0.533, 0.854 and 1.315 on the 8/12 and 15/12???? Page 144 on your book.
To get the 0.533 is very easy. You just take 8 and divide by 15. The others take a multi-step calculation. I don't have space to explain it here. The factor chart lets you avoid a string of calculations. You can get what you need by multiplying by a single number. That is the point of it, to make it quick and simple. Thanks for watching and good luck!@@jm3287
how did you get 4 inches for your hip rafter soffit cut?
The vertical cut on the end of the tails will vary by preference and finish fascia size. For a 1x6 fascia I usually use 4" on the common rafters, and of course the hip would be the same. Thanks for watching!