Thanks for a great video.....very helpful. I decided to rebuild my Atwater 8500 series.with a failed sail switch, replaced the board, sail switch and limit switch. What might be of help however, instead of removing the fan and motor, I utilized an allen wrench and removed the fan off the motor shaft, and gained access to all systems without removing the furnace from the Class A. However, if one wishes to give the furnace a great cleaning there is no harm in removing it from the vehicle...and for clarity in filming. Thanks again for an informative and easy to understand post. Ken
First thing to do is check to see if you have propane in the tank! Like on the movie "Sling Blade"...check the simple things first! Then take out the sail switch which is just held in by 2 screws to see if it is getting 12V across it. Then the 12V coming off the sail switch goes to a overheat limit switch at the back of the furnace. You want to check that wire at the board to see if it has 12V. If it doesn't you will have to replace that switch. Then you are at the board after that. If you hear the igniter trying to light and you have propane it might be the gas valve. Those board can be expensive and you don't want to replace it if the problem is a 10.00 switch.
Look in my Amazon store. There is one very similar to it. I just put it in there. Really awesome if you have to probe a wire. I love the furnaces with the outside door. Not much you can't do from right there. Except the high limit switch.
That's how I have done it. I think I bought $1500 in parts in 1998 and just like you, if I think it is something that will be a popular seller, I will order 2.
I'm working on a Atwood 8525-iv-DCLP, it would take a while to ignite. until it stopped igniting. Blower would run continuously until you shut it off, but no heat. I installed a new regulator. that didn't help, tried a different board and that didn't help, checked the sail and that seems fine. now same as you hillbilly i had to rip the whole thing out. Limit switch says it has continuity, seems fine. I'm at a loss.... Good video though!
I have the same model but nothing is coming on at all. I have power to the board from the reset switch and power leaving also on the blue wire. There is no power at the four pin plug. And no power at the blo plug. So now all that said is the board bad?????.
i finally brought it to a guy to fix. After going through all the stuff I had already gone through he ended up changing the thermostat and that's all it was. So $400 and some later he changed the thermostat and its fixed.
This video is EXACTLY what I needed! this is my furnace. I cannot thank you enough for making this and posting for us. I have some questions about the part number and how to find that particular high limit switch and sail switch? I would like to buy all these parts (Board I found because you said what it was) but having difficulty finding the other parts.
@@hillbillyrv DONE! Can you point me to how to change the sail switch video on this brand of furnace but its an 8535 - IV? You do that and I will absolutely show some more gratitude. I think I found the parts for that model on another site are Sail switch 36680 and Limit Switch 37022. Can you confirm that?
@@dooster3298 Yes, I believe you have the correct part #s. I have several videos on Attwood furnaces. If you watch those, I am sure all of your questions will be answered.
Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 30 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off in between. You said in your video that this sometimes happens my question is does it hurt the furnace parts.
thank you for your videos and prompt response also can you please do a video on how to replace the outer slide out seal and I have a plastic shower surround that has gaps and doesn't feel like it is attached to the wall very good and I am worried about moisture getting behind it.
Man, I wish I could hire you to check out the whole propane system in my old 1988 Coachmen, you probably don't want to ride down to Florida though haha! Nice video though, excellent job!
i have and Atwood 8535-iii that some times the burning and heat come on and other times the fan just runs and does not kick on. I do hear clicking noise but heat not on????
@@hillbillyrv yeah I know that, but I want to rule out the thermostat as the problem of the furnace short cycling, can I just connect across the two blue wires coming into the furnace to turn the furnace on without the thermostat? I am trying to figure out if the igniter and flame sensor is my issue.
The only way I can describe it is. It doesn't smell like one that is not burning properly. Sorry Steve, if you ever smell a bad one then you will know what a good one smells like.
I always thought music in the background was the most annoying thing to have on a video. Now I realize that something even more annoying can be in the background of a video - Harley engine noises.
You would probably be completely amazed to find out all of the crap I carry with me. And guess what? I went to reorder that high limit switch and they are on back order.
It that time lapse sound affect a Honda Davidson V-Rod? .... I would just touch the high limit switch metal connectors to my tongue. That will tell you if it's bad right away. Hee Hee.
Your video was actually very helpful with knowledge you have I was able to do some cleaning maintenance on my rv furnace and get it up and going again lol although I did find the best way to test a mother board were the igniter plugs into if you touch that and it shocks you it's good. I'm definitely happy that it wasn't the high limit switch that looks like a nightmare to change
My rv heater is back to same shanagans after cleaning the motherboard wich the motherboard is working perfectly my sail switch is also working perfectly and the high limit switch I'm guessing is sometimes working after I got everything put back to gather I found out that there is an on and off switch assuming that's for the igniter my heater work great for couple of day's and it's been shut off for couple day's because I haven't needed it now the heater will act like it wants to light burn for couple of seconds and shut off it will go threw a 2nd cycle and do the same thing and then it won't try to light anymore any suggestions same model as the unit you ate working on in the video and yes I have already upgraded the thermostat on the inside of rv
It's been a weird start to our summer weather we're it's still little cold at night and still need the rv I live rv life full time any help knowledge would be appreciated it seems like you no what your doing on these older rvs I might be missing something simple I'm not sure
Sorry, thumbs down. With no real testing and just a “hunch”, you said, “the board is probably bad”… Replaced it but obviously “No Change” Haven’t yet priced out boards or anything, but I don’t like to spend money on parts that may not need replaced…
Thanks for the thumbs down. You do realize that I didn't leave the new board in it. I used it to test, that is what helped me figure out that the high limit switch had failed. You have a GREAT day, LJ Walter.
@@hillbillyrv Yes I’m sure you did take the new board with you. That tells me your content is intended for only professional RV HVAC technicians with the means and resources to travel around with extra everything. Most people here on UA-cam are broke a$$ diy’ers trying to save a buck & do things themselves. Just saying, your repair here & how you determined the problem is not an option for people like me. That’s all
He’s the man with all his years of experience he has to go on hunches once in a while. I’m sure he had a bunch of other clients to go see so he does take shortcuts to troubleshooting -you have to if you’re gonna stay in business. A good RV tech is worth his weight in gold.
I have a 8535 -IV DCLP. I have power to the board thru the switch and also to the blue wire leaving. But there is no power any where else on the board. What is your best guess please? It also has a red light that is doing nothing.
Thanks for a great video.....very helpful. I decided to rebuild my Atwater 8500 series.with a failed sail switch, replaced the board, sail switch and limit switch. What might be of help however, instead of removing the fan and motor, I utilized an allen wrench and removed the fan off the motor shaft, and gained access to all systems without removing the furnace from the Class A. However, if one wishes to give the furnace a great cleaning there is no harm in removing it from the vehicle...and for clarity in filming. Thanks again for an informative and easy to understand post. Ken
Thanks
Are you able to get to the limit switch in the back without taking the unit out?
Still one of the best 8525 videos out there.
Thanks!
You are welcome and thank you for the $1.99
First thing to do is check to see if you have propane in the tank! Like on the movie "Sling Blade"...check the simple things first! Then take out the sail switch which is just held in by 2 screws to see if it is getting 12V across it. Then the 12V coming off the sail switch goes to a overheat limit switch at the back of the furnace. You want to check that wire at the board to see if it has 12V. If it doesn't you will have to replace that switch. Then you are at the board after that. If you hear the igniter trying to light and you have propane it might be the gas valve. Those board can be expensive and you don't want to replace it if the problem is a 10.00 switch.
Thanks for the no nonsense video that was easy to understand.
You are welcome
I appreciate the whole job on video and the sound effect on high speed.
I thought people might get a kick out of that.
Agree 👍
Wow, that's a cool looking tool. First time I seen a furnace that was able to be removed from the outside. Great job. Thanks again Don
Look in my Amazon store. There is one very similar to it. I just put it in there. Really awesome if you have to probe a wire. I love the furnaces with the outside door. Not much you can't do from right there. Except the high limit switch.
Thank you Kenny! I love that God has no email.
Me too, but I don't really understand.
Great video, thank you for bringing us along your repairs.
You are welcome Hogo
i like the motor noises vroom vroom
I like to make it fun sometimes.
Good job!!
Thanks
Another helpful video, my problem starting up my mobile service is parts, I order as needed but when I do I order 2. Thanks sir
That's how I have done it. I think I bought $1500 in parts in 1998 and just like you, if I think it is something that will be a popular seller, I will order 2.
This video was exactly what I needed. Thank you so much !!!
You are welcome.
Thanks for posting! great info. i like that wire probe
There is one similar to it in my Amazon store now.
Thanks for sharing,
You are welcome
I'm working on a Atwood 8525-iv-DCLP, it would take a while to ignite. until it stopped igniting. Blower would run continuously until you shut it off, but no heat.
I installed a new regulator. that didn't help,
tried a different board and that didn't help,
checked the sail and that seems fine.
now same as you hillbilly i had to rip the whole thing out.
Limit switch says it has continuity, seems fine.
I'm at a loss....
Good video though!
Maybe clean the burner assemble and check the igniter and flame sensor.
I have the same model but nothing is coming on at all. I have power to the board from the reset switch and power leaving also on the blue wire. There is no power at the four pin plug. And no power at the blo plug. So now all that said is the board bad?????.
i finally brought it to a guy to fix. After going through all the stuff I had already gone through he ended up changing the thermostat and that's all it was. So $400 and some later he changed the thermostat and its fixed.
Another great video Kenny
Thanks so much Corey
Great video as usual.
Thanka a bunch Frostie
Dang, wish you were in my neck of the woods
You could come to WV. 😁
This video is EXACTLY what I needed! this is my furnace. I cannot thank you enough for making this and posting for us. I have some questions about the part number and how to find that particular high limit switch and sail switch? I would like to buy all these parts (Board I found because you said what it was) but having difficulty finding the other parts.
Thanks for watching. Feel free visit my PayPal or Patreon link if you want to show some gratitude.
@@hillbillyrv DONE!
Can you point me to how to change the sail switch video on this brand of furnace but its an 8535 - IV? You do that and I will absolutely show some more gratitude. I think I found the parts for that model on another site are Sail switch 36680 and Limit Switch 37022. Can you confirm that?
@@dooster3298 Yes, I believe you have the correct part #s. I have several videos on Attwood furnaces. If you watch those, I am sure all of your questions will be answered.
Check the service manual for the part numbers for the switches search Atwood along with your model number and service manual
FINALLY! Found my furnace. The possibility of getting it fixed is closer. I draw the line at unhooking gas line BUT now there is hope. 🎉
So high limit switch should normally be closed? Where do you buy parts for Atwood unit like switch and control board?
From my suppliers. They only sell to businesses.
Would cutting a hatch door out of the region where the limit switch is located be a possible work around to disassembling basically the whole unit?
If it were my furnace, maybe.
No ,if you remove the blower housing cover and combustion wheel the limit switch is easily accessible without removing the furnace.
Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 30 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off in between. You said in your video that this sometimes happens my question is does it hurt the furnace parts.
It doesn't seem to hurt anything.
thank you for your videos and prompt response also can you please do a video on how to replace the outer slide out seal and I have a plastic shower surround that has gaps and doesn't feel like it is attached to the wall very good and I am worried about moisture getting behind it.
@@kengilliskg Bring your RV to me and I would be happy to make these repairs and shoot these videos.
I am in Boise Idaho where are you? And do you want to make a house 🏠 call. lol
@@kengilliskg I am a WV Hillbilly and I would love to see Idaho, but not right now. ha ha
Man, I wish I could hire you to check out the whole propane system in my old 1988 Coachmen, you probably don't want to ride down to Florida though haha! Nice video though, excellent job!
Naw...probably not
What is that yellow tool you used didn't see it on your Amazon store
There is one similar to it in the store now. One Hand Wire Piercing Tester.
Question, a 2015 rockwood mini lite, thermostat does not kick on heater,good gas flow, electric good, first impression?
If the furnace is getting good DC power then I would suspect the control board. If that is good, thermostat maybe.
Whats the easiest way to get to the sail switch on this model? I have a -11 but i looks the exact same.
It just depends on how the coach manufacturer installed the furnace. Outside access door? No access door?
i have and Atwood 8535-iii that some times the burning and heat come on and other times the fan just runs and does not kick on. I do hear clicking noise but heat not on????
Sounds like it is just not igniting.
feel for you not having your most important tool available...your service truck. thought that thing was fixed?
It was fixed for like 3 days. Been down ever since again. The ECM went bad again. (different codes this time)
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Is it bad to see chunks of rust in the burner chamber?
I would completely disassemble and clean and inspect it.
@@hillbillyrv So how do you turn the furnace on from the outside of the RV?
Turn it on inside at the thermostat.@@jonathancall9967
@@hillbillyrv yeah I know that, but I want to rule out the thermostat as the problem of the furnace short cycling, can I just connect across the two blue wires coming into the furnace to turn the furnace on without the thermostat? I am trying to figure out if the igniter and flame sensor is my issue.
Yes. 2 blue wires.@@jonathancall9967
I LOVE MY DINOSAUR BOARD! made in the USA and superior components.
Me too !!!!!
can you describe what a furnace smells like that isnt working well?
The only way I can describe it is. It doesn't smell like one that is not burning properly. Sorry Steve, if you ever smell a bad one then you will know what a good one smells like.
you got to say one thing tail gates to work LOL
Tail gates are awesome work benches.
I always thought music in the background was the most annoying thing to have on a video. Now I realize that something even more annoying can be in the background of a video - Harley engine noises.
HA HA
Glad I could annoy you.
You have once again confirmed my dislike for working on furnaces. On another note, I am amazed you actually has the switch in that box.
You would probably be completely amazed to find out all of the crap I carry with me. And guess what? I went to reorder that high limit switch and they are on back order.
It that time lapse sound affect a Honda Davidson V-Rod? .... I would just touch the high limit switch metal connectors to my tongue. That will tell you if it's bad right away. Hee Hee.
Would the tongue trick work on sewer valves too?
@@hillbillyrv Hell yeah buddy!
Can you come change mine I need the same part
Sure
Your video was actually very helpful with knowledge you have I was able to do some cleaning maintenance on my rv furnace and get it up and going again lol although I did find the best way to test a mother board were the igniter plugs into if you touch that and it shocks you it's good. I'm definitely happy that it wasn't the high limit switch that looks like a nightmare to change
@@rvoverland01 ha ha...that's the easy way to check the igniter.
My rv heater is back to same shanagans after cleaning the motherboard wich the motherboard is working perfectly my sail switch is also working perfectly and the high limit switch I'm guessing is sometimes working after I got everything put back to gather I found out that there is an on and off switch assuming that's for the igniter my heater work great for couple of day's and it's been shut off for couple day's because I haven't needed it now the heater will act like it wants to light burn for couple of seconds and shut off it will go threw a 2nd cycle and do the same thing and then it won't try to light anymore any suggestions same model as the unit you ate working on in the video and yes I have already upgraded the thermostat on the inside of rv
It's been a weird start to our summer weather we're it's still little cold at night and still need the rv I live rv life full time any help knowledge would be appreciated it seems like you no what your doing on these older rvs I might be missing something simple I'm not sure
Sorry, thumbs down.
With no real testing and just a “hunch”, you said, “the board is probably bad”… Replaced it but obviously “No Change”
Haven’t yet priced out boards or anything, but I don’t like to spend money on parts that may not need replaced…
Thanks for the thumbs down. You do realize that I didn't leave the new board in it. I used it to test, that is what helped me figure out that the high limit switch had failed. You have a GREAT day, LJ Walter.
@@hillbillyrv
Yes I’m sure you did take the new board with you. That tells me your content is intended for only professional RV HVAC technicians with the means and resources to travel around with extra everything. Most people here on UA-cam are broke a$$ diy’ers trying to save a buck & do things themselves.
Just saying, your repair here & how you determined the problem is not an option for people like me. That’s all
@@LJWalter78 I can only show how I do repairs.
He’s the man with all his years of experience he has to go on hunches once in a while. I’m sure he had a bunch of other clients to go see so he does take shortcuts to troubleshooting -you have to if you’re gonna stay in business. A good RV tech is worth his weight in gold.
I have a 8535 -IV DCLP. I have power to the board thru the switch and also to the blue wire leaving. But there is no power any where else on the board. What is your best guess please? It also has a red light that is doing nothing.
Thanks!