Around 2010 I bought a S110v Manix. I knew nothing about knife steels but I figured it was more expensive so it must be better than the regular Manix. I used that knife for everything, cutting cardboard to digging in the garden. I learned to sharpen it and it has never had any chips and has held up great. I like it so much that I bought a S110v PM2 and a Military 2. I recommend this steel!
I think that is the way to go! You get a steel, you sharpen it and use it. As long as you don't abuse it, it will do a good job and the better engineered it is the better of a job it will do. I want to get a UKPK with S110V....i had a UKPK and it had a thin grind. That was BD1N. If the S110V has a similar grind I think I will like it a lot. Maybe full height convex it....I personally agree with you 100%...i also recommend it!
Moin Denis, schön wieder was von dir zu hören. 🙂 Mit S110V habe ich glaube ich noch keine Erfahrung gemacht.....aber es wundert mich nicht, das du zum Teil andere Erfahrungen mit dem Stahl gemacht hast, als das, was man oftmals liest und hört. Ich habe immer wieder den Eindruck, das andere Leute einfach "Meinungen" weitergeben (die sie irgendwo gelesen oder gehört haben), ohne das selbst getestet zu haben......daher finde ich deine Videos auch immer wertvoll, denn du testest deine Messer und die Stähle sehr genau. Liebe Grüße, Stephan 🙂
Hi Stephan. Freut mich dass dir das Video gefallen hat. Du hattest mal das Manix(G10) mit S110V und ich habe dir auch geschrieben dass ich denke das dieser Stahl etwas fuer dich sein koennte. Langsam versuche ich, wieder in das Spiel(UA-cam und Messer) wieder reinzukommen. Mal sehen wie es dieses mal klappt. :) Danke fuer die netten Worte... Ich versuche immer meine eigene Erfahrungen reinzubringen. Immer nur das selbe...wird auch langweilig nach einer Weile! Leiebe Gruesse, Denis
Thanks for the vid! I always appreciate your feedback, knowing that unlike most reviewers on YT - you also use your knives fairly hard. Too much of knife reviewing nowadays is theory. I’ve reached similar conclusions regarding s110v over the few years of using it in numerous Soyderco knives. However, I have to admit that since I’ve discovered K390, I’ve not used any s90 or s110v knives. I’ve virtually no more knives in s30 or vg10, escept for a few kitchen knives that I’ve had for a while. K390 simply has better edge stability and impact resistance (at the apex) than the other crucible steels. I also don’t find it very rust prone, relative to other steels. If I need a real rust-resistant steel (ie. Fishing on my kayak in the ocean) then I reach for the H2, LC200N or Magnacut knives. When I want extreme cutting performance then I usually reach for Maxamet or S15V. K390 is a good balanced steel that works for my uses 80% of the time. Cheers!
So far, and maybe because I tested it so much, K390 in on the top of my list as well. It takes a "hazy" patine pretty quickly but I never had it rut on me either. I have been laying with Maxamet and 15V for a few months now...can't really find a flaw in them but then again I have not gone to the extremes I went to with K390 and S110V. I love swithching steels and testing everything out. After sharpening 15V and Maxamet for so long I sharpened a VG10 knife and was so pleased with how easy the last steps were. I recently(about 5 months ago) got a Native 5 with Magnacut. I have tested that steel from other manufacturers but was really waiting to see Spyderco's HT of it. I said "recently" beause I have not managed to do much with it. Dropped the edge 1 degree per side and used it a bit.... I still like H1...and I am curious about H2 but I think it will do more or less the same like H1. For "on the water" i used 440C before H1 and LC200N...and tbh...i never really had any issues unless I left it damp (in my swimming shorts) over 1-2 nights....If I just dried it a bit....no issues. Of course that was 1-2 weeks on holliday....for more frequent outings things might be different. Little spots turn into big spots and then rust.
@@SpartanJohns H2 is basically H1 in terms of performance, as far as I can distinguish. I have many fillet knives in well treated 440C - it can take water and even handle salty water quite well. However, here on the Pacific - even Lc200n gets rust spots if you don’t rinse it off (I don’t) frequently. My fishing knives basically live in salt water; I fish nearly 300 days a year, and these are extreme conditions as far as exposure to salt water goes. Maxamet and 15v are a pain to sharpen, but the edge holding is incredible. Magnacut is a great edc steel, from my somewhat limited experience. I did find that when using rather carelessly on the kayak, I managed to get a few chips here and there. I don’t get my tougher models in Lc200n and H2/H1 chipped at all. Cheers!
@@helterskelter156 I had no issues sharpening Maxamet or 15V to where they would whittle hair. even with a 45 micon finish of the coarse dmt stone. I used the same progession of strops which I showed and got it to whittle hair quite well. I tested Magnacut in the A200 and it was ok. The Deka was better, i felt, but maybe it was because the grind was thinner too. I am expecting the Native 5 to do better. But I would have to drop the edge angle to 13 dps to be able to compare. Lc200N I like very much. I had it with me seaside for 10 days and there was rust only between the guide pin and scale. But then again I am not sure how the Black Sea and Pacific compare. I have not seen any models with H2 yet show up on my regular sites....Not that I am looking to buy anything right now... About 2-3 more months....I am hoping the Native Chief Salt will come out by then... 😁
@@helterskelter156 give Ballistol a try, it's an all natural lubricant / cleaner / anti-corrosion "gun oil" that is food safe. The name comes from ballistic oil, invented in Germany around WW1. There are videos on UA-cam showing it protects a non-stainless steel for 24 hours after being sprayed with salt water solution. I put it on all my stuff, stainless or non-stainless. Not a spot on my CruWear or Swedish carbon steel blades. Beware for the first 24 hours it has a strong odor, can't tell you if it's good or bad, I've had people over and I apologized for the smell to only have them say that they liked it. So it's a 50/50 on whether you perceive it as licorice or worn socks. Cheers!
I love this style of video. Unscripted, honest, real-world reviews. Thanks for the great content. I think it's time for me to pick up a Manix 2 S110V "Blurple" today.
@@SpartanJohns I have a question for you about your Spyderco S110V blades. I have a few Spyderco knives in Maxamet and I've noticed all of these Maxamet blades have a "knocked-down" quality to them, as if the edges have been softened around the jumping, the top of the spine and the round hole for example. I talked with a Spyderco rep and they said that is a result of a tumbling process they do to their harder steels, but it is the most pronounced with their maxamet blades. Have you also noticed this kind of "knocked down" quality with the S110V Spyderco blades you have?
I have noticed things like that on some knives. But unfortunately i can’t say i noticed it across the board on all models with certain steels. The s110v models i have(military2, manix 2 lw, ukpk) have less sharp spines than others but, for example, the spyderhole was sharper than some other models.
@@SpartanJohns Oh that’s interesting. With Spyderco’s Maxamet blades the knocked-down quality is noticeable over the entire blade, except the apex of course. Well it sounds like it’s safe to say Spyderco does not use the exact same finishing procedures on all their high-end steel blades. Honestly this finishing procedure on the Maxamet blades is so noticeable to me that it makes them my favorite Spyderco’s to own and use on a regular basis.
I have a few models where i did that myself. Knocked down all the corners, rounded the spine…not hard to do. I did it with the rods from the sharpmaker
I just bought the Military2 in S110 I have always wanted to try it. So far it’s been great. I’m still on the factory edge. I strop it and it comes back to life. I’m a little nervous about sharpening it. I’m thinking of doing a 14 degree per side edge. I was told the factory edge is set at 17 degrees per side. I will kit.
you're killing me....yes...i also saw a Military 2 with S110V. I wanted to get it but...could not...and I still can't. But at some point I will. I think 14-15 dps is a good edge angle. It will be slicy enough and still have some "meat' supporting the edge. Factory edges are usually less good than the ones you put on yourself. Once you sharpen it a few times...you will see a huge improvement. Nice choice!
I had to finish some s90v with a ceramic for the last stone to get a smooth edge . Haven’t tried any S90v . Didn’t have any problems sharpened maxamet . That’s about it lately . Hope all is well brother
I have S90V nly from Manly. I would like to see what Spyderco does to their S90V. I seem to trust them more with the HT than any other knife company. As for the S90V from Manly....i can't omplain. Sharpened it on diamonds only and on ceramic only. In regular test and use...i could not see a difference. Maxamet is a bit more difficult to sharpen if the abrasives don't cut well...but if you use even "medium" quality diamonds...it works. I have been playing around with Maxamet and 15V in paralel....I should focus on just 1. that would be the better option! :)
@@SpartanJohns absolutely! had a S110V Para 3 and it chipped the tip with light gardening work but good to see that things aren't that black and white. And I really need to step up my strops 😊
I have to admit that, until i modified my Para 3(skinny mod and thinned out the grind), I was not a big fan of it. The Para2-3 Mili...have thinner tips...and sometimes that can happen with any steel. I had a lot of micro chips in this one too...but I could always trace it back to abuse. Since over the last 3-4 months I only used it for normal cutting tasks...no tests, just what I actually needed to do...I wasn't all that surprised that the edge was ok. As for strops....they are useful, especially if you want to play around with leaving a coarser finish off the stone. Like a 300 grit diamond stone. That and strops...can really give you a nice aggressive edge. But if you use a good progression of your stones...all you need is maybe a 3M, a 1M and maybe .5 M....with that you can do all sorts of hair whittling accrobatics
@@SpartanJohns I use 4 stones up to around 1500 and 2 Strops with 1M and 05M. Need to add a ceramic and at least a 0.25M Strop, I like to just bring them users back and for my more expensive folders, I send them to a german Pro Sharpener for those mirror finishes or reshaping...
If you go up to 1500 in diamond then yes...the scratch pattern of the diamond might be a bit too deep to be removed by a 1 M strop. However you should get superb edges with that setup. What I would suggest would be to "have a deeper look" at what really is happening. With practice and that setup...you will get superb edges from any steel Mirror edges are ok for certain materials. they make life easier when cutting wood. but you can also manipulate a 600 grit finish to do almost the same. First thing you could try: next time you sharpen: do a full sharpening(here you actually remove the apex-a light pass with the apex on a fine diamond stone) then sharpen using "ultra light pressure". TBH I only used "sharpening services" when I wanted to thin out a grind. It is much easier done on a belt grinder than by hand. I like sharpening too much to let others do it. But I am always curious at how other people sharpen. Whenever I buy a second hand knife I like to look/test it to see...it does happen very rare that one comes with a good edge.
Hey old friend. On high hardness high carbide steels I always use a convex edge it gives you the strongest edge you can get to minimize chipping and tear out. I am experimenting with plateau sharpening for these steels but it is too early to put forth any opinions. Glad to see a vid from you.
A blast from the past! So nice of you to drop by! I also used a bit of convexity. Especially for lower edge angles...I have to handsharpen and that just happens. In general I prefer convex edge angles when going under 15dps. Since Cliff's first video about plateau sharpening I was always curious about it. And I have tried, but get it to where the edge almost meets but not really and then use the exact amount of pressure...that is beyond my skill. What I did, for a few paring knives, I sharpened them to low edge angles...somewhere around 3-4 dps...at that point the burr was so fragile and would not come off....so i cut it off gently on a stone(later on i found out that is "the jointing method") and then did just 1-2 ultra light passes to remove the burr but is a larger edge angle. as if i would apply a microbevel but it was more to cut off burr. I don't have a microscope to check...it was not shaving, it cut paper very well...almost a 90 degree pushcut(i had to angle it a bit)...and if I wanted a shaving edge all i had to do was 1-2 passes on the DMT fine. BUT....the grind was so thin at that point...even if it worked great on vegetables and apples if i would hit the cutting board a bit harder it would get small warps. I have not managed to do the same with larger edge angles....like 12-15 dps...
Glad you found it useful. I made an "update" video....but the title is a bit clickbait-y... easy to missunderstand the point I wanted to make. But essentially...if you damage S110V it most likely is user error.
Me too...i have an update video on this...the title is a bit clickbait-y, and i did damage the tip but it was not the steel or HT...it was due to what I did
Fain clipul, ma bucur ca ai postat din nou! Faptul ca taie atat de bine dupa ce l ai tot folosit este marturie a indemanarii tale in ascutit dar si a faptului ca l ai reprofilat? (edge geometry?).... Cat priveste stropurile, problema mea e veche, nu prea ma impac cu ele la cutite, desi am reusit "whitling hair" dar pe pietre ca spyderco ultra fine sau CC4.... Am redescoperit insa stropul, pt brici, pe care il folosesc la ascutit si care s a dovedit ceva mai fin decat piatra de 8000 care o am....dar la brici sunt fortat de unghi, la cutite e freehand...
Daca faci ce am facut eu....tai lemne(relativ curate) si ai grija la cum tai, intretii taisul din cand in cand...nu ar trebui sa apara probleme. Am scazut unghiul doar. Nu am "lucrat" la geometria lamei. Ar fi de mare ajutor dar sincer daca fac aia as vreasa fac sa si arate bine si aia ar dura. Cand vine vorba de stropuri...e ca la oricealtceva: time and practice! Pentru mine a durat o vreme sa ma obisnuiesc cu pietrele diamantate dar cu timpul si dupa multe cutite ascutite am trecut la ele si acum vad beneficiile. Stropurile sunt foarte utile. Da, normal, pot sa faca si rau daca sunt utilizate prea mult dar alea sunt cazurile de execptie. Mai ales cand e vorba de oteluri "normale" cum e VG10 sau cele similare. Am lame din VG10 pe care le ascut doarpe strop. Am incercat asta sicu CRUWEAR (dat pestrop zinic cam 3 luni) si nu am observat partile negative de care multi vorbesc. Vorbind de brici...eu si ala il ascuteam freehand si pe stropuri normale de piele pe lemn sau doar lemn de balsa. In cazul asta chiar observi o diferenta daca din cand in cand mai ascuti pe pietre.
@@SpartanJohns La mine nu a fost neaparat ceva rau combinatia strop-cutit doar ca le dau degeaba....inclusiv pe strop cu pasta, se lustruieste mirror dar nu rade nici dupa 50 pase.... Prin contrast, 20 de pase pe CC4 ( sau dc3, spyderco ultra fine, worksharp fata ceramica) si rade perfect, aproape whitling.... Pe de alta parte la brici am reusit sa l fac sa taie parul fara sa l presez pe piele, numai cu strop cu pasta si apoi strop simplu.....cred vreo 1000 pase in total, fara misto ( bine, si stropul e mic cam vreo 20cm supraf utila)..... Nu ma deranjeaza dar e cam ciudat.....azi m am ras cu briciu pe obraji, insa cand am incercat pe gat cu R41 m am taiat 🤣.....
daca dupa 50 de ori dat pe strop pare ca nu are efect pot fi cateva chestii: ori nu atingi apexul, ori nu e format apexul cum trebuie pentru pasta. In princiiu...daca pasta e ok, atunci e tehnica. Sunt paste care nu sunt ok. Poti verfica usor. Tocmai am facut asta. Am pus un spray de 0.5 microni pe o bucata curata de balsa si am dat ea un Opinel. initial nu am verificat unghiul si mi se parea ciudat ca devenea mai fin taisul. Dupa aia am verificat si mi-am dat seama ca unghiul era mai mare. in 20 de treceri am vazut o diferenta. Daa polisheaza lama dar nu taie diferit inseamna ca probabil nu atingi apexul.
Atata timp cat exista otel, chestii care taie otel si pe care sa le tai cu otelul si o platforma pe care sa postezi toate tampeniile...o sa fie si un SpatanJohns...e undeva. ;)
Hi, interesting video, thanks. My opinion maybe useful info for someone. I have Spyderco Military in CPM S110V and to Spydercos Police 4 and Stretch 2 in K390. I have a set of sharpening stones Shapton Kuromaku in grids: 320, 1000, 2000, 5000 etc. I sharpened these knifes on them and without any problems. Yes it takes longer like mid range steels but possible. If I compare the S110V and K390, K390 is more difficult to sharpen like S110V. For both I tried mirror finish edges and a little bit toothier edges. On these stones I see best cutting performance (cardboards, basic stuff at home etc) when i finish the sharpening on kuromaku 1000 grit stone and finish it on leather strop loaded with 1 micron diamond spray. Bud thanks, good to know that for push cuts the mirror, semi-mirror finish is better.
Glad to hear that people are applying common sense and sharpening steel to see if youtuber statements make sense. I have been sharpening k390, for the past 6-7 months on sandpaper. Gradually reducing the thickness of the blade and testing to see if i can notice “a weaker edge” do to the abrasive. None so far. Been doing the same thing to zdp for a few years now. Same result. I have, a few weeks ago, received a sage 5 lw with a maxamet blade. I restored the edge with sandpaper. Of course diamond stones will cut it faster and of course there can be differences when you’re “chasing the perfect apex” but in day to day activities i could not really notice differences. I will, after i am done with testing k390, reprofile the maxamet blade on sandpaper and sharpen it on sandpaper only. And i am sure that even at lower edge angles and thicknesses there will be no difference in how the edge performs. There is the possibility that i am wrong…that would truly be interesting.
@@SpartanJohns I sharpened Maxamet (Spyderco Manix 2) with precise angle sharpener and Diamond stones because i had difficulties. For me Maxamet edge stability was good when i sharpened it on 17 degrees per side, Lower angles caused me the problems - chipping. It is damn hard and more brittle steel, not intended to hard work. But light work like cardboards ets fantastic. Maxamet don't like force which is comig from side something like carving - this is no go. But if we talking about steels for me the best performance steel is the K390 and also yes M390 is also great steel for less money this is great option.
I keep my PM2 with a Maxamet blade at 13 dps. Had no issues with it thru cardboard, hard plastic and hard, dry beechwood. I did sharpen it on diamond stones because i was curious how i could get/maintain a hair whittling edge. I have noticed no issues with edge instability so far. The Sage 5 LW Maxamet is now at 16 dps. Too thick bte for my liking and it is hard to see the benefits of such steels at large edge angles/thicknesses. I have seen videos about maxamet fracturing while sharpening but i have not noticed that. Been playing around with it for over a year now. My curiosity is what it does if treated(sharpened and used) like any other steel. So far its edge holding abilities in abrazive materials is fantastic and from what i noticed it is more affected by the environment than k390, 15v, m4. Now i am even more curious
@@SpartanJohns well my Manix 2 is from very early production I don't remember how many years a go, but i remember that it was really back in time when directly appeared on the market. Maybe there is the problem. Heat threateng? God know. Maybe I will buy Native 5 one day and try how it will behave.
Thank you! I am not sure what "regular stones" means....i assume it is water or oil stones. You can sharpen S30V on sandpaper and get great results. You don't need "special"(expensive) stones to sharpen S30V
@@hayden1590 yeah s110v has a higher chromium carbide structure an additional 1.5% of chromium compared to s90v. The problem with this is you don't want chromium carbides you want vanadium. And the additional niobium and I think cobalt isn't helping s110v, s90v is still outperforming it as far as edge retention, stability and possibly toughness as well. Theoretically s110v should be an improvement overall, atleast that's what everyone's initial impression was but after further testing and real world use s90v is still preferred. I don't understand why but my guess is that they hit the nail on the head with s90v's composition balance and maybe it's HT isn't as tricky as s110v.
I think you mentioned it....S110V's HT is not as "tricky"(I would say:expensive) as S90V's HT. I think that would be it. That said.... I have not had any S90V from Spyderco. I have it from Manly...some people say, after tests, it is "ok" but I don't know what that means...I also sharpened it and used it..and it is fine...but comparing manly's s90v to this S110V...without testing them side-by-side....I would prefer the S110V. But maybe it is because I used the Manix more than my WASP
What exactly would you like to know? It is like sharpening any other steel.... if I show you...you would not see/know the difference. If you tell me exactly what you want to know i could maybe clarify what questions you might have
@@SpartanJohns I would be happy to see how you sharpen freehand and various suggestions for obtaining a razor edge on a steel like S110V. Thank you for your availability, warm greetings from Italy
www.tiktok.com/@tinnybrownbear/video/7294244411762806048 This is a video I made for my tiktok. Here I sharpen a Victorinox Spartan which I found. For S110V the process would be the same. Only difference is that you might have to pay more attention at the end with the strops. Because the steel is softer so certain ceramics will not do the job as quickly. If you are using diamonds the process is the same. There is no "special technique" or a secret...Just practice...
You're welcome! BigBrownBear has a vieo of him sharpening S110V. But He does it the right way....big stones, fastened. I really prefer to hand sharpen much more. That does bring the level of precision down at first. Because not only does the knife move but the stone too. Maybe sharpening on a bench is the better way to start
Around 2010 I bought a S110v Manix. I knew nothing about knife steels but I figured it was more expensive so it must be better than the regular Manix. I used that knife for everything, cutting cardboard to digging in the garden. I learned to sharpen it and it has never had any chips and has held up great. I like it so much that I bought a S110v PM2 and a Military 2. I recommend this steel!
I think that is the way to go! You get a steel, you sharpen it and use it. As long as you don't abuse it, it will do a good job and the better engineered it is the better of a job it will do. I want to get a UKPK with S110V....i had a UKPK and it had a thin grind. That was BD1N. If the S110V has a similar grind I think I will like it a lot. Maybe full height convex it....I personally agree with you 100%...i also recommend it!
Moin Denis,
schön wieder was von dir zu hören. 🙂
Mit S110V habe ich glaube ich noch keine Erfahrung gemacht.....aber es wundert mich nicht,
das du zum Teil andere Erfahrungen mit dem Stahl gemacht hast, als das, was man oftmals liest und hört.
Ich habe immer wieder den Eindruck, das andere Leute einfach "Meinungen" weitergeben (die sie irgendwo gelesen oder gehört haben), ohne das selbst getestet zu haben......daher finde ich deine Videos auch immer wertvoll, denn du testest deine Messer und die Stähle sehr genau.
Liebe Grüße,
Stephan 🙂
Hi Stephan.
Freut mich dass dir das Video gefallen hat.
Du hattest mal das Manix(G10) mit S110V und ich habe dir auch geschrieben dass ich denke das dieser Stahl etwas fuer dich sein koennte.
Langsam versuche ich, wieder in das Spiel(UA-cam und Messer) wieder reinzukommen. Mal sehen wie es dieses mal klappt. :)
Danke fuer die netten Worte... Ich versuche immer meine eigene Erfahrungen reinzubringen. Immer nur das selbe...wird auch langweilig nach einer Weile!
Leiebe Gruesse,
Denis
@@SpartanJohns
Du Stephan, ausser wenn es um Messer geht....bin ich schon am Fuss des Berges! :))
Musst dich nicht beeilen...ich warte...;)
@@SpartanJohns 😅😅😅😅
happy to see a new upload
Thank you! Happy to see it is well received
Thanks for the vid! I always appreciate your feedback, knowing that unlike most reviewers on YT - you also use your knives fairly hard. Too much of knife reviewing nowadays is theory.
I’ve reached similar conclusions regarding s110v over the few years of using it in numerous Soyderco knives.
However, I have to admit that since I’ve discovered K390, I’ve not used any s90 or s110v knives. I’ve virtually no more knives in s30 or vg10, escept for a few kitchen knives that I’ve had for a while.
K390 simply has better edge stability and impact resistance (at the apex) than the other crucible steels.
I also don’t find it very rust prone, relative to other steels.
If I need a real rust-resistant steel (ie. Fishing on my kayak in the ocean) then I reach for the H2, LC200N or Magnacut knives. When I want extreme cutting performance then I usually reach for Maxamet or S15V.
K390 is a good balanced steel that works for my uses 80% of the time.
Cheers!
So far, and maybe because I tested it so much, K390 in on the top of my list as well.
It takes a "hazy" patine pretty quickly but I never had it rut on me either.
I have been laying with Maxamet and 15V for a few months now...can't really find a flaw in them but then again I have not gone to the extremes I went to with K390 and S110V.
I love swithching steels and testing everything out. After sharpening 15V and Maxamet for so long I sharpened a VG10 knife and was so pleased with how easy the last steps were.
I recently(about 5 months ago) got a Native 5 with Magnacut. I have tested that steel from other manufacturers but was really waiting to see Spyderco's HT of it.
I said "recently" beause I have not managed to do much with it. Dropped the edge 1 degree per side and used it a bit....
I still like H1...and I am curious about H2 but I think it will do more or less the same like H1.
For "on the water" i used 440C before H1 and LC200N...and tbh...i never really had any issues unless I left it damp (in my swimming shorts) over 1-2 nights....If I just dried it a bit....no issues. Of course that was 1-2 weeks on holliday....for more frequent outings things might be different. Little spots turn into big spots and then rust.
@@SpartanJohns H2 is basically H1 in terms of performance, as far as I can distinguish.
I have many fillet knives in well treated 440C - it can take water and even handle salty water quite well. However, here on the Pacific - even Lc200n gets rust spots if you don’t rinse it off (I don’t) frequently. My fishing knives basically live in salt water; I fish nearly 300 days a year, and these are extreme conditions as far as exposure to salt water goes.
Maxamet and 15v are a pain to sharpen, but the edge holding is incredible.
Magnacut is a great edc steel, from my somewhat limited experience. I did find that when using rather carelessly on the kayak, I managed to get a few chips here and there. I don’t get my tougher models in Lc200n and H2/H1 chipped at all.
Cheers!
@@helterskelter156 I had no issues sharpening Maxamet or 15V to where they would whittle hair. even with a 45 micon finish of the coarse dmt stone. I used the same progession of strops which I showed and got it to whittle hair quite well.
I tested Magnacut in the A200 and it was ok. The Deka was better, i felt, but maybe it was because the grind was thinner too. I am expecting the Native 5 to do better. But I would have to drop the edge angle to 13 dps to be able to compare.
Lc200N I like very much. I had it with me seaside for 10 days and there was rust only between the guide pin and scale.
But then again I am not sure how the Black Sea and Pacific compare.
I have not seen any models with H2 yet show up on my regular sites....Not that I am looking to buy anything right now...
About 2-3 more months....I am hoping the Native Chief Salt will come out by then...
😁
@@helterskelter156 give Ballistol a try, it's an all natural lubricant / cleaner / anti-corrosion "gun oil" that is food safe. The name comes from ballistic oil, invented in Germany around WW1. There are videos on UA-cam showing it protects a non-stainless steel for 24 hours after being sprayed with salt water solution. I put it on all my stuff, stainless or non-stainless. Not a spot on my CruWear or Swedish carbon steel blades. Beware for the first 24 hours it has a strong odor, can't tell you if it's good or bad, I've had people over and I apologized for the smell to only have them say that they liked it. So it's a 50/50 on whether you perceive it as licorice or worn socks. Cheers!
I love this style of video. Unscripted, honest, real-world reviews. Thanks for the great content. I think it's time for me to pick up a Manix 2 S110V "Blurple" today.
Glad you liked the video. In the meantime i got 2 more s110v blades. I like the steel. Hope you will too
@@SpartanJohns I have a question for you about your Spyderco S110V blades. I have a few Spyderco knives in Maxamet and I've noticed all of these Maxamet blades have a "knocked-down" quality to them, as if the edges have been softened around the jumping, the top of the spine and the round hole for example. I talked with a Spyderco rep and they said that is a result of a tumbling process they do to their harder steels, but it is the most pronounced with their maxamet blades. Have you also noticed this kind of "knocked down" quality with the S110V Spyderco blades you have?
I have noticed things like that on some knives. But unfortunately i can’t say i noticed it across the board on all models with certain steels. The s110v models i have(military2, manix 2 lw, ukpk) have less sharp spines than others but, for example, the spyderhole was sharper than some other models.
@@SpartanJohns Oh that’s interesting. With Spyderco’s Maxamet blades the knocked-down quality is noticeable over the entire blade, except the apex of course. Well it sounds like it’s safe to say Spyderco does not use the exact same finishing procedures on all their high-end steel blades. Honestly this finishing procedure on the Maxamet blades is so noticeable to me that it makes them my favorite Spyderco’s to own and use on a regular basis.
I have a few models where i did that myself. Knocked down all the corners, rounded the spine…not hard to do. I did it with the rods from the sharpmaker
We need more videos like these
So glad to see you back!!!
Thank you...as always...I was never "gone" just layin' low....
I just bought the Military2 in S110 I have always wanted to try it. So far it’s been great. I’m still on the factory edge. I strop it and it comes back to life. I’m a little nervous about sharpening it. I’m thinking of doing a 14 degree per side edge. I was told the factory edge is set at 17 degrees per side. I will kit.
you're killing me....yes...i also saw a Military 2 with S110V. I wanted to get it but...could not...and I still can't. But at some point I will.
I think 14-15 dps is a good edge angle. It will be slicy enough and still have some "meat' supporting the edge.
Factory edges are usually less good than the ones you put on yourself. Once you sharpen it a few times...you will see a huge improvement.
Nice choice!
I had to finish some s90v with a ceramic for the last stone to get a smooth edge . Haven’t tried any S90v . Didn’t have any problems sharpened maxamet . That’s about it lately . Hope all is well brother
I have S90V nly from Manly. I would like to see what Spyderco does to their S90V. I seem to trust them more with the HT than any other knife company.
As for the S90V from Manly....i can't omplain. Sharpened it on diamonds only and on ceramic only. In regular test and use...i could not see a difference.
Maxamet is a bit more difficult to sharpen if the abrasives don't cut well...but if you use even "medium" quality diamonds...it works. I have been playing around with Maxamet and 15V in paralel....I should focus on just 1. that would be the better option! :)
Thank you very much!
Thanks! I hope this was of some use!
@@SpartanJohns absolutely! had a S110V Para 3 and it chipped the tip with light gardening work but good to see that things aren't that black and white.
And I really need to step up my strops 😊
I have to admit that, until i modified my Para 3(skinny mod and thinned out the grind), I was not a big fan of it. The Para2-3 Mili...have thinner tips...and sometimes that can happen with any steel.
I had a lot of micro chips in this one too...but I could always trace it back to abuse. Since over the last 3-4 months I only used it for normal cutting tasks...no tests, just what I actually needed to do...I wasn't all that surprised that the edge was ok.
As for strops....they are useful, especially if you want to play around with leaving a coarser finish off the stone. Like a 300 grit diamond stone. That and strops...can really give you a nice aggressive edge.
But if you use a good progression of your stones...all you need is maybe a 3M, a 1M and maybe .5 M....with that you can do all sorts of hair whittling accrobatics
@@SpartanJohns I use 4 stones up to around 1500 and 2 Strops with 1M and 05M. Need to add a ceramic and at least a 0.25M Strop, I like to just bring them users back and for my more expensive folders, I send them to a german Pro Sharpener for those mirror finishes or reshaping...
If you go up to 1500 in diamond then yes...the scratch pattern of the diamond might be a bit too deep to be removed by a 1 M strop. However you should get superb edges with that setup.
What I would suggest would be to "have a deeper look" at what really is happening.
With practice and that setup...you will get superb edges from any steel
Mirror edges are ok for certain materials. they make life easier when cutting wood. but you can also manipulate a 600 grit finish to do almost the same.
First thing you could try: next time you sharpen: do a full sharpening(here you actually remove the apex-a light pass with the apex on a fine diamond stone) then sharpen using "ultra light pressure".
TBH I only used "sharpening services" when I wanted to thin out a grind. It is much easier done on a belt grinder than by hand. I like sharpening too much to let others do it. But I am always curious at how other people sharpen. Whenever I buy a second hand knife I like to look/test it to see...it does happen very rare that one comes with a good edge.
Hey old friend. On high hardness high carbide steels I always use a convex edge it gives you the strongest edge you can get to minimize chipping and tear out. I am experimenting with plateau sharpening for these steels but it is too early to put forth any opinions. Glad to see a vid from you.
A blast from the past! So nice of you to drop by! I also used a bit of convexity. Especially for lower edge angles...I have to handsharpen and that just happens. In general I prefer convex edge angles when going under 15dps.
Since Cliff's first video about plateau sharpening I was always curious about it. And I have tried, but get it to where the edge almost meets but not really and then use the exact amount of pressure...that is beyond my skill.
What I did, for a few paring knives, I sharpened them to low edge angles...somewhere around 3-4 dps...at that point the burr was so fragile and would not come off....so i cut it off gently on a stone(later on i found out that is "the jointing method") and then did just 1-2 ultra light passes to remove the burr but is a larger edge angle. as if i would apply a microbevel but it was more to cut off burr. I don't have a microscope to check...it was not shaving, it cut paper very well...almost a 90 degree pushcut(i had to angle it a bit)...and if I wanted a shaving edge all i had to do was 1-2 passes on the DMT fine.
BUT....the grind was so thin at that point...even if it worked great on vegetables and apples if i would hit the cutting board a bit harder it would get small warps. I have not managed to do the same with larger edge angles....like 12-15 dps...
Great video, thanks!
Glad you liked it! I hope you can put some of the information here to good use
That’s a nice looking edge too 👏👍✌️. Good job dude .
this was more the stropping over time. I do love he look of it! and I must say..polished S110V, if you mainly do push cuts....very cool1
Very very useful video on these steal !
Thx for video. I've enjoyed ur reviews & comments. U use ur knives then review
Glad you found it useful. I made an "update" video....but the title is a bit clickbait-y... easy to missunderstand the point I wanted to make. But essentially...if you damage S110V it most likely is user error.
Yes I like s110v steel really enjoy using
Me too...i have an update video on this...the title is a bit clickbait-y, and i did damage the tip but it was not the steel or HT...it was due to what I did
He’s back!
...back again...Shady's back...tell a friend! ;)
Fain clipul, ma bucur ca ai postat din nou!
Faptul ca taie atat de bine dupa ce l ai tot folosit este marturie a indemanarii tale in ascutit dar si a faptului ca l ai reprofilat? (edge geometry?)....
Cat priveste stropurile, problema mea e veche, nu prea ma impac cu ele la cutite, desi am reusit "whitling hair" dar pe pietre ca spyderco ultra fine sau CC4....
Am redescoperit insa stropul, pt brici, pe care il folosesc la ascutit si care s a dovedit ceva mai fin decat piatra de 8000 care o am....dar la brici sunt fortat de unghi, la cutite e freehand...
Daca faci ce am facut eu....tai lemne(relativ curate) si ai grija la cum tai, intretii taisul din cand in cand...nu ar trebui sa apara probleme.
Am scazut unghiul doar. Nu am "lucrat" la geometria lamei. Ar fi de mare ajutor dar sincer daca fac aia as vreasa fac sa si arate bine si aia ar dura.
Cand vine vorba de stropuri...e ca la oricealtceva: time and practice!
Pentru mine a durat o vreme sa ma obisnuiesc cu pietrele diamantate dar cu timpul si dupa multe cutite ascutite am trecut la ele si acum vad beneficiile.
Stropurile sunt foarte utile. Da, normal, pot sa faca si rau daca sunt utilizate prea mult dar alea sunt cazurile de execptie. Mai ales cand e vorba de oteluri "normale" cum e VG10 sau cele similare. Am lame din VG10 pe care le ascut doarpe strop. Am incercat asta sicu CRUWEAR (dat pestrop zinic cam 3 luni) si nu am observat partile negative de care multi vorbesc.
Vorbind de brici...eu si ala il ascuteam freehand si pe stropuri normale de piele pe lemn sau doar lemn de balsa. In cazul asta chiar observi o diferenta daca din cand in cand mai ascuti pe pietre.
@@SpartanJohns La mine nu a fost neaparat ceva rau combinatia strop-cutit doar ca le dau degeaba....inclusiv pe strop cu pasta, se lustruieste mirror dar nu rade nici dupa 50 pase....
Prin contrast, 20 de pase pe CC4 ( sau dc3, spyderco ultra fine, worksharp fata ceramica) si rade perfect, aproape whitling....
Pe de alta parte la brici am reusit sa l fac sa taie parul fara sa l presez pe piele, numai cu strop cu pasta si apoi strop simplu.....cred vreo 1000 pase in total, fara misto ( bine, si stropul e mic cam vreo 20cm supraf utila).....
Nu ma deranjeaza dar e cam ciudat.....azi m am ras cu briciu pe obraji, insa cand am incercat pe gat cu R41 m am taiat 🤣.....
daca dupa 50 de ori dat pe strop pare ca nu are efect pot fi cateva chestii:
ori nu atingi apexul, ori nu e format apexul cum trebuie pentru pasta.
In princiiu...daca pasta e ok, atunci e tehnica.
Sunt paste care nu sunt ok. Poti verfica usor. Tocmai am facut asta. Am pus un spray de 0.5 microni pe o bucata curata de balsa si am dat ea un Opinel.
initial nu am verificat unghiul si mi se parea ciudat ca devenea mai fin taisul. Dupa aia am verificat si mi-am dat seama ca unghiul era mai mare. in 20 de treceri am vazut o diferenta.
Daa polisheaza lama dar nu taie diferit inseamna ca probabil nu atingi apexul.
Am crezut că te-ai lăsat de dastea bre 😊 Bine ai revenit 🤗
Atata timp cat exista otel, chestii care taie otel si pe care sa le tai cu otelul si o platforma pe care sa postezi toate tampeniile...o sa fie si un SpatanJohns...e undeva.
;)
Hi, interesting video, thanks. My opinion maybe useful info for someone. I have Spyderco Military in CPM S110V and to Spydercos Police 4 and Stretch 2 in K390. I have a set of sharpening stones Shapton Kuromaku in grids: 320, 1000, 2000, 5000 etc. I sharpened these knifes on them and without any problems. Yes it takes longer like mid range steels but possible. If I compare the S110V and K390, K390 is more difficult to sharpen like S110V. For both I tried mirror finish edges and a little bit toothier edges. On these stones I see best cutting performance (cardboards, basic stuff at home etc) when i finish the sharpening on kuromaku 1000 grit stone and finish it on leather strop loaded with 1 micron diamond spray. Bud thanks, good to know that for push cuts the mirror, semi-mirror finish is better.
Glad to hear that people are applying common sense and sharpening steel to see if youtuber statements make sense. I have been sharpening k390, for the past 6-7 months on sandpaper. Gradually reducing the thickness of the blade and testing to see if i can notice “a weaker edge” do to the abrasive. None so far. Been doing the same thing to zdp for a few years now. Same result. I have, a few weeks ago, received a sage 5 lw with a maxamet blade. I restored the edge with sandpaper. Of course diamond stones will cut it faster and of course there can be differences when you’re “chasing the perfect apex” but in day to day activities i could not really notice differences. I will, after i am done with testing k390, reprofile the maxamet blade on sandpaper and sharpen it on sandpaper only. And i am sure that even at lower edge angles and thicknesses there will be no difference in how the edge performs. There is the possibility that i am wrong…that would truly be interesting.
@@SpartanJohns I sharpened Maxamet (Spyderco Manix 2) with precise angle sharpener and Diamond stones because i had difficulties. For me Maxamet edge stability was good when i sharpened it on 17 degrees per side, Lower angles caused me the problems - chipping. It is damn hard and more brittle steel, not intended to hard work. But light work like cardboards ets fantastic. Maxamet don't like force which is comig from side something like carving - this is no go. But if we talking about steels for me the best performance steel is the K390 and also yes M390 is also great steel for less money this is great option.
I keep my PM2 with a Maxamet blade at 13 dps. Had no issues with it thru cardboard, hard plastic and hard, dry beechwood. I did sharpen it on diamond stones because i was curious how i could get/maintain a hair whittling edge. I have noticed no issues with edge instability so far. The Sage 5 LW Maxamet is now at 16 dps. Too thick bte for my liking and it is hard to see the benefits of such steels at large edge angles/thicknesses. I have seen videos about maxamet fracturing while sharpening but i have not noticed that. Been playing around with it for over a year now. My curiosity is what it does if treated(sharpened and used) like any other steel. So far its edge holding abilities in abrazive materials is fantastic and from what i noticed it is more affected by the environment than k390, 15v, m4.
Now i am even more curious
@@SpartanJohns well my Manix 2 is from very early production I don't remember how many years a go, but i remember that it was really back in time when directly appeared on the market. Maybe there is the problem. Heat threateng? God know. Maybe I will buy Native 5 one day and try how it will behave.
I have seen youtubers post videos about that when the first batches of maxamet came out. Have not had any problems with mine so far
Welcome back!
Thank you!
Like your Chanel very much
Thank you so much 😀
I have a small update, brought on by the interaction with users after this video!
Good video! Is it difficult to hand sharpen s30v on regular stones?
Thank you! I am not sure what "regular stones" means....i assume it is water or oil stones. You can sharpen S30V on sandpaper and get great results. You don't need "special"(expensive) stones to sharpen S30V
How did you get the sharpening choil on that Manix?
Diamond file and patience
👍
I still don't see the point in s110v when there's s90v instead, and s90v is anti- corrosive enough. Idk maybe I'm missing something?
S110v has a finer grain structure than s90v which is impressive because s110v has a higher carbide volume.
@@hayden1590 yeah s110v has a higher chromium carbide structure an additional 1.5% of chromium compared to s90v. The problem with this is you don't want chromium carbides you want vanadium. And the additional niobium and I think cobalt isn't helping s110v, s90v is still outperforming it as far as edge retention, stability and possibly toughness as well. Theoretically s110v should be an improvement overall, atleast that's what everyone's initial impression was but after further testing and real world use s90v is still preferred. I don't understand why but my guess is that they hit the nail on the head with s90v's composition balance and maybe it's HT isn't as tricky as s110v.
I think you mentioned it....S110V's HT is not as "tricky"(I would say:expensive) as S90V's HT. I think that would be it.
That said.... I have not had any S90V from Spyderco. I have it from Manly...some people say, after tests, it is "ok" but I don't know what that means...I also sharpened it and used it..and it is fine...but comparing manly's s90v to this S110V...without testing them side-by-side....I would prefer the S110V. But maybe it is because I used the Manix more than my WASP
Ahh yes more paper cutting.
if paper bad, paper gets cut!
One video about sharpenig...Thank you🙏👋
What exactly would you like to know?
It is like sharpening any other steel.... if I show you...you would not see/know the difference.
If you tell me exactly what you want to know i could maybe clarify what questions you might have
@@SpartanJohns I would be happy to see how you sharpen freehand and various suggestions for obtaining a razor edge on a steel like S110V. Thank you for your availability, warm greetings from Italy
www.tiktok.com/@tinnybrownbear/video/7294244411762806048
This is a video I made for my tiktok. Here I sharpen a Victorinox Spartan which I found. For S110V the process would be the same. Only difference is that you might have to pay more attention at the end with the strops. Because the steel is softer so certain ceramics will not do the job as quickly. If you are using diamonds the process is the same.
There is no "special technique" or a secret...Just practice...
@@SpartanJohns Thank you so much🙏😊👋👋
You're welcome! BigBrownBear has a vieo of him sharpening S110V. But He does it the right way....big stones, fastened. I really prefer to hand sharpen much more. That does bring the level of precision down at first. Because not only does the knife move but the stone too. Maybe sharpening on a bench is the better way to start