I’m never going to get a boat finished. Jeff’s voice is so soothing I fall asleep dreaming of boats bobbing on a sun setting sea everytime I listen. I’ve started using these videos as a guided meditation for enhancing sleep disorders. Thanks Jeff. I’ve made 4 of your boats in dreamland.
I'm sure Jeff is at peace now after a wonderful life 🙂 Having said that if your boat is going in salt water use epoxy ! if your building a small row or sailing/fishing boat that will only see fresh water and live it's life under a tarp or in a shed and only see water in the spring , summer , fall when you get the chance to use it then polyester resin/fiberglass on the outside painted with whatever is fine will last for yrs , i'm talking 9.9 outboard fishing boat kinda stuff not 150 merc on a 15 footer , my 2 cents after 50 yrs of wooden boats
Thank you Jeff for the video on fiberglassing. I wondered why the wax paper I used wasn't as effective as I thought it should be. It did peel off the joints I made but not willingly. Looking forward to getting started on my Alaska dory after the holidays. Take care, stay well and Happy Holidays to you and your family.
Just finished my 13 ft. Sailboat. I used polyester resin with cloth over plywood. Sanded rough, got a good bond. Then sanded , primed and painted with auto paint. I think it’s going to be just fine. I used to do auto body, and am well experienced fiberglassing.
I have a shelf full of Spira plans, and will start on either the Pacific or Carolina dory very soon. Every video I learn another little tidbit I will employ. I am seriously considering doing a false floor and completely sealing the bottom inside and out, creating a "flotation chamber" ; having a self bailing deck. I'm fully aware of the gremlins I will introduce if (when actually) some moisture gets in there! I have had waterlogged foam filled boats in the past, so I will NOT be foaming anything, and putting in inspection plates / panels so that I can get in there, air it out occasionaly, and see any problems before they become major. May even put a custom fuel tank in the space. I know, reinventing the wheel, but what can I say? Now, after proof reading my post, I think the fuel tank idea is not so smart!
Hi Eric, I was searching for the Pacific Dory plans now that Jeff has passed away and Spira site is down, any chance I could obtain them from you ? Ty D
I've seen in the forums guys saying they use Tyvec house wrap as peel ply. I threw your name out this week, a guy wanting to build a house boat hull. Another guy agreed you were the man to call about the design. Hope it gets you a little business.
Very straightforward explanation. Useful. Thanks. I think there is a special paper for the process you use use wax paper for, but I can't remember what they call it. Probably cost more of course, but I don't like the idea of sanding off the paper if it is not waxy enough. Need to test I suppose.
Thanks Jeff! Been watching your videos all weekend and it's getting me fired up. In a previous video you mentioned doing one on adhesives. Is that still in the works? I just assumed PL Premium would be fine as I've seen that referenced on a number of forums but you're the designer. And do you see any value in building the frames with lap joints?
The glue one is coming. You your question about lap joints, yes, the advantage is you get to show off how great your woodworking skills are to your friends. No strength advantage though.
Yes, this is the correct method in laminating. It fills the weave so when the laminate is sanded it doesn't sand into the glass cloth and weaken the whole laminate. Also the 'filler coat' is an opportunity to add micro balloons or any of the sanding/fairing fillers so that the laminate is easy to sand/fair. The filler coat can be applied after the lamibate has 'gelled' but not cured when blush will come to the surface.
@@robertcain3426 I have built a boat since I made this comment and found using fairing compound with a 8” or 10” drywall knife to spread it as thin as possible worked great. If I ever build a boat with a bright finish I will have to try just epoxy to fill the weave.
@@markgallagher1376 Yes that's a good way too. In fact it's probably one of the best ways for the average person. I have much experience laminating surfboards and sanding which is easy for me, but wouldn't be for the inexperienced, non professional laminator. I've been learning the woodcraft side of boat building and videos like this are a great help. Cheers
@@tjkid07 yeah I got this old wooden boat painted it first blue then sanded it back down painted it red and black. I think I'm done sandind it, I'll double up on outside bumpers!
Great video! Question: I've downloaded some study plans in metric but the fiberglass weight is not converted to grs/m² as used in Europe. If it says 6OZ for example, does that means 6ounce per square yard? (that would be about 200gr/m²)
Yes, covered sleeves, gloves, and I use a head covering because I tend to scratch my head sometimes. Some guys use respirators because they're sensitive to the odors and fumes as well. It doesn't bother me too much when I'm applying, but I wear a mask in case I scratch my nose. Of I', using polyester though, I'm extrordinarily sensitive to polyester odors and chemicals though, so hear a respirator. Definitely safety glasses and respirator, fully covered skin with gloves when sanding or grinding either epoxy or polyester. The dust also contains ground glass fibers that will affect you greatly.
I'm building my first boat this spring. I'm concerned about not having enough time to work the fiberglass. Do you work in sections or do you glass the whole boat before it cures?
Work the fiberglass? As I say in teh video, two people can do both layers of the boat in a single day, that's for boats 23 foot or shorter. What size boat are you talking about?
@@tjkid07 I'm building a 16 ft sailboat. What i mean by "work the fiberglass" is what you describe in the video; lay first layer of resin, lay glass, paint/stab at resin with a brush, roll glass with roller, etc...repeat for 2nd layer. I'm concerned that even "slow" resin only gives 30 min of work time. It seems like there's a lot to do in a short time. Is the work broken up into sections where the epoxy is allowed to cure or is the whole boat completed while the epoxy is wet (less than 30min for 2 layers)?
@@mikedehaan81 My personal experience has been that the 30 minutes working time is the time it takes for the epoxy to start kicking when contained in a mixing pot. Once you get it spread out on the surface of the plywood it takes longer to start setting up as it has more surface area to lose heat to. Of course temperature plays a role in this. If you use fast hardener on a hot day, even spreading the epoxy out may not be enough to get you the time you need to work the glass into the base layer as well as you want. Once you have mixed the epoxy in the measuring container for the recommended time (about 2 minutes) pour it into a paint pan and start rolling it onto your surface. The less heat you build up the better. Hope this helps.
@@mikedehaan81 As I say in the video, you paint on 1 section of glass in the work time. Put down one layer of cloth while it is still wet (the glass underneath need not be workable) mix up and lay another layer of glass on it. It could be in two or three batches, lay on the next layer of glass, while it is still tacky, not necessarily "workable" and repeat with the top coat. THe epoxy takes 24 houors to "cure" even though it may not still be workable, so no you do not let layers dry, per my recommendation. If you wish to, you can let the first layer dry - probably 48 hours depending on the temperature where you are, then clean the blush off, (google it - there are several ways) then sand the hull fully, and lay the second down. My way is a lot faster and works well enough for my designs. Not sure about yours though.
P.S i'm not advocating using polyester resin as a glue for a joint only as a cheaper way to sheath plywood , epoxy where i am is about 200 bucks a gallon , you can find poly for about 50/100 ish and a small rowboat will use about a gallon an half to sheath in a couple of layers of 6 oz for abrasion protection ect.
Did you say anything to upset UA-cam? Won’t play, that little thingy just keeps going around and around. I NEED this video...ah, there it goes. Thanks.
You cannot leave the wax paper on until the resin, (or bondo) fully cures. remove the wax paper after things start hardening up just a bit. Also, buy the brand name heavy duty wax paper, (Reynolds i think is the brand).
@@EricRush He says he doesn't recommend fiberglassing (IE: 6oz cloth) the inside... he doesn't mention epoxy... BTW, Eric I really enjoyed you boat building videos! Beautiful boat!
Here's what this epoxy's webpage says, (copied and pasted: ) It is cycloaliphatic or “non-blushing”, which means that it has no oily film or amine “blush” on it. From this website: www.aeromarineproducts.com/product/300-21-laminate-epoxy-resin-6-gal-kit-pumps/ Maybe "non-blushing" means very low blush? It says "no-blush" so I don't know if that is true or not. Where you you get your information?
I’m never going to get a boat finished. Jeff’s voice is so soothing I fall asleep dreaming of boats bobbing on a sun setting sea everytime I listen. I’ve started using these videos as a guided meditation for enhancing sleep disorders. Thanks Jeff. I’ve made 4 of your boats in dreamland.
I'm sure Jeff is at peace now after a wonderful life 🙂 Having said that if your boat is going in salt water use epoxy ! if your building a small row or sailing/fishing boat that will only see fresh water and live it's life under a tarp or in a shed and only see water in the spring , summer , fall when you get the chance to use it then polyester resin/fiberglass on the outside painted with whatever is fine will last for yrs , i'm talking 9.9 outboard fishing boat kinda stuff not 150 merc on a 15 footer , my 2 cents after 50 yrs of wooden boats
Used AeroMarine on my current boat. Absolutely loved it. Will be my go to going forward.
Thank you Jeff for the video on fiberglassing. I wondered why the wax paper I used wasn't as effective as I thought it should be. It did peel off the joints I made but not willingly. Looking forward to getting started on my Alaska dory after the holidays. Take care, stay well and Happy Holidays to you and your family.
Just finished my 13 ft. Sailboat. I used polyester resin with cloth over plywood. Sanded rough, got a good bond. Then sanded , primed and painted with auto paint. I think it’s going to be just fine. I used to do auto body, and am well experienced fiberglassing.
If you know what you're doing and prep the surface well enough, you can probably get away with it.
I have a shelf full of Spira plans, and will start on either the Pacific or Carolina dory very soon. Every video I learn another little tidbit I will employ. I am seriously considering doing a false floor and completely sealing the bottom inside and out, creating a "flotation chamber" ; having a self bailing deck. I'm fully aware of the gremlins I will introduce if (when actually) some moisture gets in there!
I have had waterlogged foam filled boats in the past, so I will NOT be foaming anything, and putting in inspection plates / panels so that I can get in there, air it out occasionaly, and see any problems before they become major. May even put a custom fuel tank in the space. I know, reinventing the wheel, but what can I say?
Now, after proof reading my post, I think the fuel tank idea is not so smart!
Hi Eric, I was searching for the Pacific Dory plans now that Jeff has passed away and Spira site is down, any chance I could obtain them from you ? Ty D
I've seen in the forums guys saying they use Tyvec house wrap as peel ply. I threw your name out this week, a guy wanting to build a house boat hull. Another guy agreed you were the man to call about the design. Hope it gets you a little business.
I'll have to try that. It doesn't stick?
Poly vapour barrier works well
Thanks Jeff, love the wax paper recommendation! going to use it for sure on my build.
Very good info 👍
I did. I plan to take care of this boat. My kids will inherit it.
What about using wood sealer?
Very straightforward explanation. Useful. Thanks. I think there is a special paper for the process you use use wax paper for, but I can't remember what they call it. Probably cost more of course, but I don't like the idea of sanding off the paper if it is not waxy enough. Need to test I suppose.
Yes, do test. The one I show in the Amazon link is industial wax paper.
How about parchment paper? I have used it for small projects, and it separates easy.
@@michaelnelson9140 sure, give it a try and let me know how it works.
Peel ply
hi, cant seem to access your website, any where else which sells your boat plan?
How about external bumpers, 2
Thanks Jeff! Been watching your videos all weekend and it's getting me fired up. In a previous video you mentioned doing one on adhesives. Is that still in the works? I just assumed PL Premium would be fine as I've seen that referenced on a number of forums but you're the designer. And do you see any value in building the frames with lap joints?
The glue one is coming.
You your question about lap joints, yes, the advantage is you get to show off how great your woodworking skills are to your friends. No strength advantage though.
Instead of the wax paper, can you just put on another coat of epoxy to fill the weave?
Yes, but it just makes the layer thicker but the weave doesn't really go away.
Yes, this is the correct method in laminating. It fills the weave so when the laminate is sanded it doesn't sand into the glass cloth and weaken the whole laminate. Also the 'filler coat' is an opportunity to add micro balloons or any of the sanding/fairing fillers so that the laminate is easy to sand/fair. The filler coat can be applied after the lamibate has 'gelled' but not cured when blush will come to the surface.
@@robertcain3426 I have built a boat since I made this comment and found using fairing compound with a 8” or 10” drywall knife to spread it as thin as possible worked great. If I ever build a boat with a bright finish I will have to try just epoxy to fill the weave.
@@markgallagher1376 Yes that's a good way too. In fact it's probably one of the best ways for the average person. I have much experience laminating surfboards and sanding which is easy for me, but wouldn't be for the inexperienced, non professional laminator. I've been learning the woodcraft side of boat building and videos like this are a great help. Cheers
Can you fiberglass over paint?
Not a good idea. You should strip it down to bare wood.
@@tjkid07 yeah I got this old wooden boat painted it first blue then sanded it back down painted it red and black. I think I'm done sandind it, I'll double up on outside bumpers!
Great video!
Question: I've downloaded some study plans in metric but the fiberglass weight is not converted to grs/m² as used in Europe.
If it says 6OZ for example, does that means 6ounce per square yard? (that would be about 200gr/m²)
Yes, 200 g. I hadn't seen them expressed that way until recently. My newer boats have them listed that way.
Any specific safety equipment recommended. I presume gloves....and ??
Yes, covered sleeves, gloves, and I use a head covering because I tend to scratch my head sometimes. Some guys use respirators because they're sensitive to the odors and fumes as well. It doesn't bother me too much when I'm applying, but I wear a mask in case I scratch my nose. Of I', using polyester though, I'm extrordinarily sensitive to polyester odors and chemicals though, so hear a respirator.
Definitely safety glasses and respirator, fully covered skin with gloves when sanding or grinding either epoxy or polyester. The dust also contains ground glass fibers that will affect you greatly.
Awesome tips ,,,,
I'm building my first boat this spring. I'm concerned about not having enough time to work the fiberglass. Do you work in sections or do you glass the whole boat before it cures?
Work the fiberglass? As I say in teh video, two people can do both layers of the boat in a single day, that's for boats 23 foot or shorter. What size boat are you talking about?
@@tjkid07 I'm building a 16 ft sailboat. What i mean by "work the fiberglass" is what you describe in the video; lay first layer of resin, lay glass, paint/stab at resin with a brush, roll glass with roller, etc...repeat for 2nd layer. I'm concerned that even "slow" resin only gives 30 min of work time. It seems like there's a lot to do in a short time. Is the work broken up into sections where the epoxy is allowed to cure or is the whole boat completed while the epoxy is wet (less than 30min for 2 layers)?
@@mikedehaan81 My personal experience has been that the 30 minutes working time is the time it takes for the epoxy to start kicking when contained in a mixing pot. Once you get it spread out on the surface of the plywood it takes longer to start setting up as it has more surface area to lose heat to. Of course temperature plays a role in this. If you use fast hardener on a hot day, even spreading the epoxy out may not be enough to get you the time you need to work the glass into the base layer as well as you want. Once you have mixed the epoxy in the measuring container for the recommended time (about 2 minutes) pour it into a paint pan and start rolling it onto your surface. The less heat you build up the better. Hope this helps.
@@mattevans-koch9353 This does help, thanks.
@@mikedehaan81 As I say in the video, you paint on 1 section of glass in the work time. Put down one layer of cloth while it is still wet (the glass underneath need not be workable) mix up and lay another layer of glass on it. It could be in two or three batches, lay on the next layer of glass, while it is still tacky, not necessarily "workable" and repeat with the top coat. THe epoxy takes 24 houors to "cure" even though it may not still be workable, so no you do not let layers dry, per my recommendation.
If you wish to, you can let the first layer dry - probably 48 hours depending on the temperature where you are, then clean the blush off, (google it - there are several ways) then sand the hull fully, and lay the second down. My way is a lot faster and works well enough for my designs. Not sure about yours though.
Thanks Mr Spira. This was a very helpful episode.
P.S i'm not advocating using polyester resin as a glue for a joint only as a cheaper way to sheath plywood , epoxy where i am is about 200 bucks a gallon , you can find poly for about 50/100 ish and a small rowboat will use about a gallon an half to sheath in a couple of layers of 6 oz for abrasion protection ect.
Did you say anything to upset UA-cam? Won’t play, that little thingy just keeps going around and around. I NEED this video...ah, there it goes. Thanks.
Upset them? Nope, all's good. I keep it away from politics.
You cannot leave the wax paper on until the resin, (or bondo) fully cures. remove the wax paper after things start hardening up just a bit. Also, buy the brand name heavy duty wax paper, (Reynolds i think is the brand).
Thank you Jeff!! Very informative as usual! Is it still your recommendation to Epoxy (not fiberglass) the inside of the hull?
He explains that at 1:28
@@EricRush He says he doesn't recommend fiberglassing (IE: 6oz cloth) the inside... he doesn't mention epoxy... BTW, Eric I really enjoyed you boat building videos! Beautiful boat!
@@Eric..F Sorry I misunderstood. The entire interior gets epoxy but not cloth.
I covered interior epoxy with polyurethane to protect epoxy from UV.
@@EricRush Thanks Eric!!!
All epoxy resins produces blush. Some are low blush not non blush
Here's what this epoxy's webpage says, (copied and pasted: )
It is cycloaliphatic or “non-blushing”, which means that it has no oily film or amine “blush” on it.
From this website: www.aeromarineproducts.com/product/300-21-laminate-epoxy-resin-6-gal-kit-pumps/
Maybe "non-blushing" means very low blush? It says "no-blush" so I don't know if that is true or not. Where you you get your information?
first , lol.....1st for thumbs up too !
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