Never heard of that one before, what a fantastic joint. I was struggling to work it out as you were showing it, but it was all very clear in the end. Thanks Mitch.
How brilliant is this good ppl.?? I'm very impressed my friend. I had never ever heard of Carcass joints/dovetails before seeing this video. That was exceptional piece of hand sawing and chisel work. I will be having a go at some of these nice joints to attempt to learn the best ways for me to get them cut out. I wanted to ask a question if u have a moment?? Q. When sharpening my Chisels do I need to put 2 bevels on them and flatten the back? I'm new to hand tools and I'm having some success with the hand planes and sharpening the blades from them but I'm struggling with my chisels. Most guys on here tell us to put the 25 degree bevel on 1st and then the smaller 30 degree bevel last?? Is that correct? It doesn't seem to be working for me in the way I had hoped my friend. If there is anybody in the comments section that could maybe give me a bit of advice I would be ever so grateful to u all. I never thought I would enjoy using the hand tools so much but I've really caught the bug of plaining big time. I didn't expect that to go so well from the start but it has. My planes are cheap but they do a great job. I bought a low angle block, a #3 & #4 finishing & smoothing planes. Is there any major difference between the 2 bigger #3 / #4 planes? Some part are different but they basically do the same job imo. I've seen an issue develop with the blade in one of the planes. It's got little chips coming off all the time making the point on the bevel uneven. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Is it a case of a bad blade/Iron or have I sharpened it incorrectly?? My Chisels I thought would be OK with a 30 degree bevel and maybe the smaller one would be OK at 25 degrees? What I thought was the longer setting was for the larger of the 2 bevels? and the smaller setting was for the mini bevel like it's a steeper angle surely? This is where I have been struggling with the sharpening process. Could u give me a little advice and maybe explain it for me? Anybody who can I'd be very thankful to u. Thanks in advance to anybody who takes the time to reply. I really appreciate it bcos I'm basically a newbie to this whole game of woodworking. I love spending time in my little workshop. I hate the dust but it's cool making something with my own hands. My father was the same when he was younger. He used to build all sorts of pieces. Wardrobes, kitchen counters, built in units in the living room, etc. He was just good at most things when it came to using his hands. He could throw a good punch too when he had to.. hahahahahaha! Enjoyed ur video very much too pal. I'm already sub'd to ur channel. Will be checking for some more of these great video tutorials again too.
You know I do sharpening videos too? There's a playlist on there somewhere. The angles depend on the wood you're using really, and whether you are chopping using a mallet, or paring just with hand force. For soft woods (not to be confused with softwoods) use a lower angle like 18°. A small secondary bevel, say 22° will make the edge more resilient. For hard woods, increase the primary to 25-30° and add a secondary of 35° for chopping. The secondary bevels help prevent the edge from chipping, whilst the primary reduces the wedging effect to allow the blade to penetrate. Your chipping iron could be poor steel, or just too low an angle for the workpiece. Flatness of the back in chisels is useful because it gives a reference surface to keep the blade cutting in the same plane. The back should also be smooth (at least at the cutting end) so that the edge produced is straight and sharp. Hope that helps.
That would appear to be a very strong joint on a table or desk. I'm going to have to practice this one and incorporate it into my next table. Thanks for sharing the process.
Never heard of that one before, what a fantastic joint. I was struggling to work it out as you were showing it, but it was all very clear in the end. Thanks Mitch.
Very welcome Rico
The master does it again!
Cheers Tony
So well done !
oh my, what great work.
Cheers
WoW! That makes for an extremely high quality furniture . Loved it. Way over my skills .
Thanks mate. It's not so hard as it might look, just wait for the next halving joint video I post!
@@mitchwoodwork if one day you sell those plans I might dig in;)
It is in the book I'm writing at the moment. Hopefully available later in the year.
@@mitchwoodwork WOW!!
Sorry . Didn’t see your answer …no notifications from YT on a multi string answers
Thanks for the great video! I have never seen someone cut this joint before 👏👏👏
Thank you
That's a very interesting and enjoyable episode. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you mate !
VERY cool joint. I'm going to have to try that.
Cheers, that's what I like to hear!
Wow
How brilliant is this good ppl.?? I'm very impressed my friend. I had never ever heard of Carcass joints/dovetails before seeing this video. That was exceptional piece of hand sawing and chisel work.
I will be having a go at some of these nice joints to attempt to learn the best ways for me to get them cut out.
I wanted to ask a question if u have a moment??
Q. When sharpening my Chisels do I need to put 2 bevels on them and flatten the back? I'm new to hand tools and I'm having some success with the hand planes and sharpening the blades from them but I'm struggling with my chisels.
Most guys on here tell us to put the 25 degree bevel on 1st and then the smaller 30 degree bevel last?? Is that correct?
It doesn't seem to be working for me in the way I had hoped my friend.
If there is anybody in the comments section that could maybe give me a bit of advice I would be ever so grateful to u all.
I never thought I would enjoy using the hand tools so much but I've really caught the bug of plaining big time. I didn't expect that to go so well from the start but it has. My planes are cheap but they do a great job. I bought a low angle block, a #3 & #4 finishing & smoothing planes. Is there any major difference between the 2 bigger #3 / #4 planes? Some part are different but they basically do the same job imo.
I've seen an issue develop with the blade in one of the planes. It's got little chips coming off all the time making the point on the bevel uneven. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Is it a case of a bad blade/Iron or have I sharpened it incorrectly??
My Chisels I thought would be OK with a 30 degree bevel and maybe the smaller one would be OK at 25 degrees? What I thought was the longer setting was for the larger of the 2 bevels? and the smaller setting was for the mini bevel like it's a steeper angle surely? This is where I have been struggling with the sharpening process. Could u give me a little advice and maybe explain it for me? Anybody who can I'd be very thankful to u.
Thanks in advance to anybody who takes the time to reply. I really appreciate it bcos I'm basically a newbie to this whole game of woodworking. I love spending time in my little workshop. I hate the dust but it's cool making something with my own hands. My father was the same when he was younger. He used to build all sorts of pieces. Wardrobes, kitchen counters, built in units in the living room, etc. He was just good at most things when it came to using his hands. He could throw a good punch too when he had to.. hahahahahaha!
Enjoyed ur video very much too pal. I'm already sub'd to ur channel. Will be checking for some more of these great video tutorials again too.
You know I do sharpening videos too? There's a playlist on there somewhere. The angles depend on the wood you're using really, and whether you are chopping using a mallet, or paring just with hand force. For soft woods (not to be confused with softwoods) use a lower angle like 18°. A small secondary bevel, say 22° will make the edge more resilient. For hard woods, increase the primary to 25-30° and add a secondary of 35° for chopping.
The secondary bevels help prevent the edge from chipping, whilst the primary reduces the wedging effect to allow the blade to penetrate.
Your chipping iron could be poor steel, or just too low an angle for the workpiece.
Flatness of the back in chisels is useful because it gives a reference surface to keep the blade cutting in the same plane. The back should also be smooth (at least at the cutting end) so that the edge produced is straight and sharp.
Hope that helps.
👍👍👍👍
🍻
That would appear to be a very strong joint on a table or desk. I'm going to have to practice this one and incorporate it into my next table. Thanks for sharing the process.
You're welcome