I really wish your hand wasn't taking up the entire frame of the camera when you are using the punch and hammer to tap out the front/rear sights. Would have been nice to see the angle and placement along with size punch you were using. I'm trying to get both of my sights off my shield using a punch/hammer set and it's not budging.
I would be very careful with applying that Loctite on the rear sight. It already has a set screw and if you put a tiny dab on that before tightening, that should hold everything in place nicely. My concern is getting the Loctite into that spring and cap. I'm pretty sure you don't want to bind any moving parts up.
I've run these on my Glock 23/19 for one year now. Never had an issue with these coming loose or losing their zero. I opted to try a different set of sights on my M&P Shield as I basically taught myself to shoot only using Big Dots and never traditional 3 dot sights... I will say this - that I shoot better with the Big Dots after a solid 30,000 rounds of .40 ammunition.
I had some rust in my front sight dove tail but didn't know before hand. I filed and checked the fit for at least 30 min, but it would not slide half way in. So I took a tooth brush and cleaned the tail off and it slid all the way in. I had removed too much material. Also, bring the sight toward you on the file. You won't remove much material sliding it AWAY from you on the file. This is what I learned installing these.
If you cut the sights down until they fit halfway into the dovetail and tap them the rest of the way in, do they stay in place with a friction fit WITHOUT loctite?
Some thread locker is need, we don't want the sights coming off at the range and loosing the sight. most times if the sight is installed at the center of the pistol adjustment won't be needed.
This is EXACTLY what I was going to comment. He mentioned earlier that the loctite used seeps into every nook and crevice so you know that junk is getting down into that plunger....
Any good sight you shouldn't have to use thread locker. Especially on the whole damn sight. Only temporary thread locker should be used on the rear sight screw to prevent it from backing out.
I’ve changed many sights on my handguns and never used thread locker in this manner. Properly fitting sights will stay in place, I just use blue lock tight on the actual threads on the rear sight and have never had a problem with movement of sights
I just really wish that X-S had actually inserted proper tritium into the night sights I ordered from them and just installed. Rear sights just bounce, front sight is deader than Whistler's Mother.
Call or email them - get a replacement or your money back. Don't just take it lying down. Use some strongly disappointed language, while being tactful. They should take care of you.
I’ve never liked the M&P 22 OEM sights. On the website it shows these sights available for the full size M&P 22. Knowing the slide is thin aluminum is the install the same or do you need to file down the sight for fitment.
Yes, it is very easy to notice if your sights are miss aligned. It can help, if you leave the slide in the vice and get down and align the sight picture. When you focus that hard on a small area it is very noticeable if your rear is off from the front. You can also measure the distance on both sides of the sight with a caliper if needed.
@@millakilla Hickok45 shows how handgun accuracy is all in the shooter. He has great videos of using subcompacts at long ranges. Never know what you need to use your tool on until its time to use it.
No one can tell me if the windage adjustment screw is turned clockwise or counterclockwise wise to move the sight. I know you move the rear sight right to move the bullet right; which direction do you move the screw to move the sight right?
Steve Dixon I’ve always remember the acronym FORS - Front Opposite, Rear Same. Whichever way you move the front sight, bullet will impact opposite direction. Move the rear sight left or right , and the bullet impact will follow 👍🏻
done this on two m&ps fit just fine dry press, I measured both shield dovetail front and rear, same dimensions to the thousands, trijicon are actually a loser fit, avoid the temptation to file, a pusher is best, lite tapping if you have to. gunsmithing is not rocket science just common sense.
Anybody put the new XS Big Dot sights on a S&W EZ 9mm? Wondering how it shot and how hard is it to install them? Heard hard for even some gunsmiths or are they trying to make a $25 job a $50 one?
What happens if you take a little to much of the front sight and it slides in half way with no resistance. I could slide it back off but after thread-locker set it seems tight just wondering how it will hold up with shooting?
@@XSsightSystems Anybody put the new XS Big Dot sights on a S&W EZ 9mm? Wondering how it shot and how hard is it to install them? Heard hard for even some gunsmiths or are they trying to make a $25 job a $50 one?
odd I just replaced my shield sights, thought I would see if they were tapered milled dove tailed using thread wire gauges as parallels, nope straight cut tapers both ends right to the 0.001 of an inch. I don't know where this got started but from a manufacturing standpoint it would make little sense to cut a taper , the sights are drift adjusted so why make it lose on one side and to tight on the other? the slack is taken up by the nubs on each surface of the sight dovetail. now pushing on the rear sight from ejection port side left makes sense because you engage the disk first making it easier to install. Filing the new sights is stupid, using loctie dumber yet, just use a pusher or better yet a mill on a mill vice and a milled brass push bar.
@@nyuu444 i didn't use any, the set screw dose a nice job holding the rear, as for the front, try and install without filing the base, same for rear. common sense applies here. i used my mill and mill vise as a pusher, avoiding beating on the sights with a punch. this method is rock solid and no risk of slippage or shock to the glow tubes. can you install with punch and hammer. of course. there are just better ways.
Removing the oil and adding will cause rust. I have never tried thread locker on anything but threads so I am not sure what good it will do but it's not super glue lol.
Thread locker expands and fills small spaces. It expands between the sight and the slide for a pressure fit. Removing the oil will not cause rust on a blued slide. This allows for the thread locker to bond to the sight and slide surfaces.
Right now we do not have a set that works with the TP9 SA V2. We are working on finalizing sights for all the new SF models and then switching gears to the SA's.
Fairly snug fit? You pushed it in with your hand! Terrible use of loctite as it is not a wicking fluid. If anything, install a light coat on the edges before installation.
I am starting to wonder if the person who owned the SW I was "trying" to remove the sight watched this gd video.....; it's stuck....won't move much, brass punch braking.....wonder if its RedLocite........who on earth decided to use this $h!t on sights.......and on this one w the bloody safety spring there.
To anybody who actually wants to know, the read thread locker is the best thing to be used for vibration resistance. It works this way on thread, it also works the same way in this application. A tight fit will still vibrate, but red thread locker will resist heat and keep the vibration from letting the site move. Stop being stupid people... and please stop saying things when you don't know what you're talking about
I really wish your hand wasn't taking up the entire frame of the camera when you are using the punch and hammer to tap out the front/rear sights. Would have been nice to see the angle and placement along with size punch you were using. I'm trying to get both of my sights off my shield using a punch/hammer set and it's not budging.
I would be very careful with applying that Loctite on the rear sight. It already has a set screw and if you put a tiny dab on that before tightening, that should hold everything in place nicely. My concern is getting the Loctite into that spring and cap. I'm pretty sure you don't want to bind any moving parts up.
So....Shouldn't you fire a few shots to see if the windage is correct before using the thread locking compound?
Wouldn't windage be adjusted in the front sight?
@@millakilla That is the front sight...
Centered on the slide
@@RejectedManiac what are you saying.....
What I did is tighten the set screw, target test it, then locktite et al. Common sense.
I've run these on my Glock 23/19 for one year now. Never had an issue with these coming loose or losing their zero. I opted to try a different set of sights on my M&P Shield as I basically taught myself to shoot only using Big Dots and never traditional 3 dot sights... I will say this - that I shoot better with the Big Dots after a solid 30,000 rounds of .40 ammunition.
I had some rust in my front sight dove tail but didn't know before hand. I filed and checked the fit for at least 30 min, but it would not slide half way in. So I took a tooth brush and cleaned the tail off and it slid all the way in. I had removed too much material. Also, bring the sight toward you on the file. You won't remove much material sliding it AWAY from you on the file. This is what I learned installing these.
Left to Right my brother.
So beyond he fast sight picture, I just ordered these to save some shirts. Factory MP sights are razor sharp on the inside rear sights
If you cut the sights down until they fit halfway into the dovetail and tap them the rest of the way in, do they stay in place with a friction fit WITHOUT loctite?
IMO - 1st try tapping them on with the punch, they may be tight but that is how YOU want them. don't file until they can slide on by hand.
It would have helped if you showed exactly where you were filing on the new sights
Bumblebee Airsoft and didn’t have his dumb ass hand in the way every time he was doing something critical
He was filing on each side that slides in the slots so it fits. Perpendicular to your sightline.
What size Allen key for screw on rear sight ?
Nice video, but you should recommend sighting gun in at range before putting thread lock on rear sight.
Some thread locker is need, we don't want the sights coming off at the range and loosing the sight. most times if the sight is installed at the center of the pistol adjustment won't be needed.
If the set screw holds the rear sight in place whats there to adjust?
k miller these are fixed sights on a fighting pistol. This isn’t a target pistol with target sights.
Did you "free eye" the front sight to center it? That's what I would be afraid of doing it myself...not being centered.
No need as long as it's flush on both sides.
Can the lock tight make its way down that plunger/spring and effect the safety mechanism?
This is EXACTLY what I was going to comment. He mentioned earlier that the loctite used seeps into every nook and crevice so you know that junk is getting down into that plunger....
@@TerminalM193 exactly my concern.
Isn’t it call thread locker because it’s supposed to go on the threads?
Any good sight you shouldn't have to use thread locker. Especially on the whole damn sight. Only temporary thread locker should be used on the rear sight screw to prevent it from backing out.
@@RejectedManiac You are completely wrong.
@@rawkemsawkem3328 And how is that? Did they slop thread locker all over the stock sights when you buy the pistol? No, they don't you idiot.
I’ve changed many sights on my handguns and never used thread locker in this manner. Properly fitting sights will stay in place, I just use blue lock tight on the actual threads on the rear sight and have never had a problem with movement of sights
I just really wish that X-S had actually inserted proper tritium into the night sights I ordered from them and just installed.
Rear sights just bounce, front sight is deader than Whistler's Mother.
Call or email them - get a replacement or your money back. Don't just take it lying down. Use some strongly disappointed language, while being tactful. They should take care of you.
good video am just wondering did you scratch the shit out of the side tapping out the sight?
No we didn't. Keep the punch on the blade of the sight and you will be good.
You guys dont put thread lock on inside the back sight screw...will the company install the sighys on the slide if we send the slide in..
great video
I’ve never liked the M&P 22 OEM sights. On the website it shows these sights available for the full size M&P 22. Knowing the slide is thin aluminum is the install the same or do you need to file down the sight for fitment.
You said to just eye that its centered, is that very accurate at longer ranges?
Yes, it is very easy to notice if your sights are miss aligned. It can help, if you leave the slide in the vice and get down and align the sight picture. When you focus that hard on a small area it is very noticeable if your rear is off from the front. You can also measure the distance on both sides of the sight with a caliper if needed.
How long of range do you expect to be shooting with a sub compact pistol?
@@millakilla Hickok45 shows how handgun accuracy is all in the shooter. He has great videos of using subcompacts at long ranges. Never know what you need to use your tool on until its time to use it.
What solvent clean brass off of slide?
So it looks like you made the rear sight lose.. is that so you can adjust it after easy
Sure 😅
No one can tell me if the windage adjustment screw is turned clockwise or counterclockwise wise to move the sight. I know you move the rear sight right to move the bullet right; which direction do you move the screw to move the sight right?
Steve Dixon I’ve always remember the acronym FORS - Front Opposite, Rear Same. Whichever way you move the front sight, bullet will impact opposite direction. Move the rear sight left or right , and the bullet impact will follow 👍🏻
Daaammmnnn, red loctite?!? Is that really necessary?
He did not loctite the set screw.
Does all red thread locker wick and creep into the gaps?
Yes, Just let it rest for about 15 minutes before cleaning the extra thread locker off.
Is this the same for the full side m&p?
Yes
I am planning on buying these sights. Do they always have to be filed?
It really varies on the firearms. Some are easy and some are worse. I would plan on having to use the file for a stroke or two.
done this on two m&ps fit just fine dry press, I measured both shield dovetail front and rear, same dimensions to the thousands, trijicon are actually a loser fit, avoid the temptation to file, a pusher is best, lite tapping if you have to. gunsmithing is not rocket science just common sense.
@@SouthernGround I ordered the wheeler sight pusher and these sights. I shouldn’t have to file at all ?
Anybody put the new XS Big Dot sights on a S&W EZ 9mm? Wondering how it shot and how hard is it to install them? Heard hard for even some gunsmiths or are they trying to make a $25 job a $50 one?
What happens if you take a little to much of the front sight and it slides in half way with no resistance. I could slide it back off but after thread-locker set it seems tight just wondering how it will hold up with shooting?
Just put a little extra lock tite on both end s of the sight and you should be fine.
@@XSsightSystems I have a slight pusher do I still need to file?
@@XSsightSystems Anybody put the new XS Big Dot sights on a S&W EZ 9mm? Wondering how it shot and how hard is it to install them? Heard hard for even some gunsmiths or are they trying to make a $25 job a $50 one?
What size alejen wrench?
The Allen wrench usually comes with the new sights
M&P sights are directional. They need to go out from left to right, and in from right to left (as looking down the sights of the pistol)
odd I just replaced my shield sights, thought I would see if they were tapered milled dove tailed using thread wire gauges as parallels, nope straight cut tapers both ends right to the 0.001 of an inch. I don't know where this got started but from a manufacturing standpoint it would make little sense to cut a taper , the sights are drift adjusted so why make it lose on one side and to tight on the other? the slack is taken up by the nubs on each surface of the sight dovetail. now pushing on the rear sight from ejection port side left makes sense because you engage the disk first making it easier to install. Filing the new sights is stupid, using loctie dumber yet, just use a pusher or better yet a mill on a mill vice and a milled brass push bar.
@@SouthernGround is the loctie not needed to hold the rear or front sights? Just asking because I'm gonna change mine.
@@nyuu444 i didn't use any, the set screw dose a nice job holding the rear, as for the front, try and install without filing the base, same for rear. common sense applies here. i used my mill and mill vise as a pusher, avoiding beating on the sights with a punch. this method is rock solid and no risk of slippage or shock to the glow tubes. can you install with punch and hammer. of course. there are just better ways.
@@SouthernGround alright cool. Thanks for the advise.
Rear sight seemed too loose
It’s supposed to go in loose and is held on by the set screw
Neeks no it’s still to be pressed in and in addition to tighten down the old sight wasn’t loose
@@bordersoldier I agree.sight was way too loose
Geez.... You better make damn sure that from sight is centered before using any kind of thread-locker....
Why are you whispering?
can't hear you
I.hear.you are.supposed.to remove.sight toward ejection side
Slick
might want to wait to see if in the right place before
Removing the oil and adding will cause rust. I have never tried thread locker on anything but threads so I am not sure what good it will do but it's not super glue lol.
Thread locker expands and fills small spaces. It expands between the sight and the slide for a pressure fit. Removing the oil will not cause rust on a blued slide. This allows for the thread locker to bond to the sight and slide surfaces.
hi why no tritium i for shield?
The rear sight is too low.
Why would you recommend a "thread locker" on a sliding fit? Red thread locker requires heat to remove! "Green" is used for slip fit applications.
Red holds up to cleaning chemicals better like gun scrubber. You don't need heat to remove the sight, a brass punch will do the job.
XS Sights why wouldn’t you use purple? Purple is made to wick.
@xssights what set do I need to order for my tp9sa v2 model. From and rear are dovetail cut.
Right now we do not have a set that works with the TP9 SA V2. We are working on finalizing sights for all the new SF models and then switching gears to the SA's.
To the best of your knowledge are are all dovetails the same or are they sized differently?
We have been told the SF's are the same. We are in process of getting an SF Elite in to verify POI/POA.
Fairly snug fit? You pushed it in with your hand! Terrible use of loctite as it is not a wicking fluid. If anything, install a light coat on the edges before installation.
your front sight came out rather easily. Mine has been a b---- to get out.
This dude took the old out on the left and put the new in on the right... wtf
Your fingers block the image most of the time. Too bad.
If it went out to the left it should come in from the left for consistency
Will the thread lock cone of If I changed it again
I am starting to wonder if the person who owned the SW I was "trying" to remove the sight watched this gd video.....; it's stuck....won't move much, brass punch braking.....wonder if its RedLocite........who on earth decided to use this $h!t on sights.......and on this one w the bloody safety spring there.
Sight pusher,,,
To anybody who actually wants to know, the read thread locker is the best thing to be used for vibration resistance. It works this way on thread, it also works the same way in this application. A tight fit will still vibrate, but red thread locker will resist heat and keep the vibration from letting the site move. Stop being stupid people... and please stop saying things when you don't know what you're talking about
Good job not showing what needs to be shown......jeez. Buying Ameriglo.
You took that sight off for that 🤮
Genius has obviously no idea as to how to properly utilize a simple file....
Ppp😊
What? I had to stop watching it because I could only hear the hammer. Speak up...
What size allen wrench?
1/16