I use Nukeproof ARDs in rear both for my Trail Fullsus and my XC Hardtail and I love them!!! Because of the extra protection but also because I do love the feeling of light supple casings and relatively mow air pressure and so they are like spacer in the fork to me!!!
I've run them in the past, but moving back to heavier rear tyre (DD Maxxis Minion + DT Swiss Rim) has meant that I haven't really needed them. I think if I were to do the Mega again, I might opt for one in the rear (just because of the length of the race) - but for everyday UK riding and Enduro races, I don't think they are needed anymore.
I ran inserts for about 6 months....never again. IMO the marginal gains in terms of lowering tyre pressure made little to no difference to my style of riding. However, the added faff of installation (never mind sorting tyre punctures trailside ie having to put a tube in), set up sealant faff, valves constantly getting blocked, the total ball ache if you want to swap tyres etc etc was enough to turn me away from them. I'll run my tyres with 2-3 extra psi and happily live without them. Emperors new clothes if you ask me!
Procore any time. It even makes tyre seating easier, actively pushing tyre bead from the inside. And it is the only system I can justify cost of. It's a system, comes with all you need and isn't just a piece of plastic with a leaflet.
I am a weekend warrior and it took me some pains to switch to tubeless. I finally learned that tyre-rim compatibility was very important. So now I ride tubeless. To go to inserts? That is a whole level up in headache. While I agree that things do happen, the added fuss over inserts makes them not worth it for me. If it built my skill up to where I was jumping off larger ramps and therefore landing harder I would definitely reconsider.
Biggest issue I had was when I did finally get a puncture with a Schwalbe Procore in and I couldn't even get the tyre off the rim. That was the last day I ran inserts.
It's almost impossible to get a tyre off when there's dry mud all over and in between the tyre/rim. I was running 17mm rims with insert and a 2.25 " schwalbe racing ralph..crazy hard to get on and it never sits well. Upgraded my wheel to 24mm and boom everything good
I use a Tannus for the hardtail, and Vittoria XC on the trail bike. The Tannus seems bombproof, but you definitely feel it in the tire. I prefer the Vittoria as it seems to work, but otherwise I don't notice it.
I run my bikes with a Tannus Armour Insert and an inner tube filled with sealant. Old Skool with a twist which works for me! I absolutely love this setup (to the absolute dismay of my riding pals who have all gone tubeless). It gives me extra peace of mind out on the trails and is both quick, easy and clean to install at home.
Been running Rimpact in my carbon rims for 3 years and love them. Haven't gotten a traditional flat but the time my valve leaked they saved me from a long walk.
@@babenkoffare you running a heavy/still tire casing? It's odd that even at lower pressure they still feel harsh. If I run too low I can feel my tire wallowing around. Maybe it has to do with the combination you're running interior width of the rim, tire size ect.
Years Ago I chose to not go for heavy double downs etc, and went with lighter tires and cushcores instead. Never had the problem of rolling the rim over the tire in corners again. The combination is also lighter.
Happy with Cushcore! Been using them for 7 years, at least. Dh, enduro, xc, I use cushcore pro. I ride over 200 days a year, and need to budget tires, rims, rebuilds, plus do all the work myself. Easy decision, easy technique after a couple swaps. Still carry a tube in my backpack. Cushcore is a tire a damper and beadlocker. No need for low pressure burping in berms, or ripping knobs off an overinflated carcass. I have won the races, claimed the koms, but just being able to rip without hemmhoraging budget feels awesome. Everyone is different.
I'm about 160 kitted up and I like the feel of 2.6s at around 20 psi.. they grip so nicely on rock surfaces and they're good in the sand, both of which are abundant in SoCal. You can feel the support in hard turns. they allow the low psi grip without sacrificing support in hard turns IMO (IME)
Owen is right. Tubes do have their place. On my Orbea Rallon. It's in the bag inside the downtube. On my Orbea Laufey. It's in my backpack. The only time they'll wate space inside my tyres. Is what I get the one flat. The sealant and tyre put can't fix.
3:22 No need to replace the wheel, that's only a good idea if your wheels are junk, then you replace the wheels, but other wise just replace the rim, tape the new rim to the old and transfer the spokes and nipples, then tighten remove the old rim, tighten the spokes in the truing stand, and true the wheel. while you are at it wider rims would be a good idea. if the bike has room for it. I find 30mm to be nice. Not tried everything. Keep in mind if you don't get exact same rim the height might be different. So make sure it's not too big difference. Some rims are asymmetric, so get what is compatible with your set up, if already good rims in appropriate width, get the same rims.
On my hardtail I like a soft compound rear because it rebounds slower and an insert to make it progressive. It feels like I have 30mm of travel! The insert also controls side flex at lower psi.
Rear 29x2.6 Maxxis Dissector Exo MaxGrip with Rimpact at 19 to 20 psi. Front is Assegai 2.6 with rimpact at 15 psi. I weight 190lbs. Alum rims @@MrJacobegg
I’ve always thought inserts made more sense as tire size gets larger. They make a lot of sense for low-pressure fat bike tires, or plus tires, but make little sense on XC tires that should have sufficient pressure.
Does your tire often spin inside the wheel or lose the bead? There's no need for them because no one runs tire pressures below 20psi, and no one can peddle hard enough to spin the tire inside the wheel. Tire Technology and inserts have already solved the problems with tubeless.
I have 3 gravel bikes (1 is a bikepacking bike), 2 hardtail xc bikes, and a full suspension xc bike. All 29ers, all with the appropriate CushCore inserts. 100% fan of inserts, it's a totally different handling feel than no inserts, plus the lower air pressure with progression, much like tokens in your forks.
I just finished dialing in the initial settings on my full sus MTB, and the Vittoria inserts are good, but for my skill level, they are overkill. They also make putting tires on much more difficult. I'm actually going to be removing them and redoing my rim tape. I fear that due to this difficulty and my inexperience of installing inserts may have damaged my rim tape. Also, stay away from Stan's "tubeless" valve stems on Industry Nine wheels. The valves leak air like a sieve.
Was destroying rear tyres on my Spectral ON. I’m a heavy and aggressive rider and the tyres were splitting and the side casing. Went to a Vittoria tyre liner and never had a problem since. End of last year I had to replace the tyre as it had worn out and the Vitoria liner looked like new. I’m hooked. Put Cush Core on my Spectral 29 straight out of the box.
Running a Vittoria air liner , Vittoria syerras, i9 Enduro rims on my rear tire . Nukeproof scout . XXL. I liked it immediately. Saved me from walking once and gives the hardtail a little more extra traction. Ill get more airliners at least for the hardtail and less aggressive tires.
Cush core in the front tire offers night and day improvement in grip, cornering, and on the face of jumps. Can't imagine ever pulling them out of my front tire.
I love my new propain hugene! Now I just have to wait for this New England winter to pass so I can get out at on trail. Super stoked to see propain on the channel, I really hope you guys build up a hugene!!
Helps protect rear tyre and wheel on a HT. Alt. Is a double ply tyre but that they are hard work! BTW very interesting EMBN about optimal rear tyre rolling pressure = 20psi. So adjust other parameters around that.
#askgmbntech Just to add to the #ride4mb comment - I originally submitted the name 'Bonneyville' to the Bike Park Wales crew for a trail naming competition - it didn't win - but they used it for a trail later that year - hence why it has that spelling - not the original Bonneville (as in Bonneville Salt Flats) spelling
I use Rimpact Inserts in my Hardtail. Pretty sure that they saved my beloved Hope Rims a few times. Only thing is, they change the feel, especially in the rear tyre when ridden with a low pressure.
87kg Running trail casing Butcher & Eliminator on a Megatower 2 on Black rocky tech, haven't had a flat YET - now Ive said that I will get one this weekend...
I remember watching a video by Ben Cathro 5 years ago, where he had a puncture, it's titled: Cushcore couldn't save my wheels 😭// British DH RACE VLOG - Fort William. Cush Core is not a miracle worker, but it does what it's advertised to do well, and is durable, does not absorb sealant, and does not stretch. I find it easy to install if done correctly, especially on a 30mm rim. But narrow rim and wire bead tyre will be torture, but that's more the wire bead tyre, but narrow rim and Cush Core make it harder I guess. He flat spotted the rim and cracked it. Cush Core won't save the rim against big hits, but will protect the rim from bending on smaller impacts like riding slowly into rocks or stairs, at least in my experience. But blasting trough For William as fast as possible is another story, losing air then smashing hard.
I like my Tannus inserts because they help stiffen the sidewalls on my 2,6 Schwalbe Rocket Rons. I run them @ 12psi in the rear and 11.5 psi front. I run carbon We Are One Convert rims 27.5" with 35mm internal width!
10:36 I like the livery, nice blue and white, but I dislike it not having mesh to protect against insects, leafs and what ever else getting inside and bothering the rider, but not fun to get a bee or fly stuck in the helmet. So it's a No from me. I don't know if the fit has changed, but I tried Giro helmets many years ago, and the shape did not fit my head. No idea if these will fit. Features a helmet must have for me to buy it: good vents mesh on all vents D-ring buckle or something as secure. I like D-Ring, but some don't I find it easy to use, some not, I've never had any issues with it, only thing is if it gets wet it it is sub zero temps, it can freeze, but a bit of heat and it's loosened, No problem really. Removable pads and and liner, so I can clean the helmet. cheek pads can't wear out, I had this issue on 2015,2016 Fox Rampage Carbon, they got compressed permanently, eventually it got so bad the helmet hit me in the face. I did not get that with the Leatt. Not tried the Giro full face helmets. I have a Leatt Gravity 1.0 DH , reasonably priced and light, but their gloves and other gear is expensive in comparison.
I'm still fine with my tubes, but also I'm not in business of telling anyone what they should ride. Depends on your priorities, what type of riding you do on that bike, etc.
If you are a super lightweight rider tubes are easier. Can't remember when I last had a flat. I run 16 to 18 psi. I watch my husband changing tyres and is covered in 'goop' which is highly amusing until I remember I'll be the one washing his clothes! @@ExplosiveNotes
@@TazErrant I'm not light at 90kg, but I think the terrain I ride is not very demanding on keeping air in tires. Practicaly no really sharp rocks around here. The biggest puncture danger for me is going out without checking if I have enough air in my rear tire, hopping up a curb and landing short. 😁
I run inserts on the hardtail rear and on my dilapidated freeriding Jeckyll, I have tried some brands names, also high density foam ones from ali and even some very heavy aerospace foam I found on a Japanese marketplace the conclusion is yes they prevent pinch flats but not sure about the wheels I can still hear the pings n creaks when I hit rocks. I don't have a great sample size I break rims randomly but rarely. They do all have lots of scratches 😢
I used to use inserts. I now prefer running gravity tires without. In my opinion running a heavy duty casing has far more benefits without much weight penalty. Im 215lbs for reference.
Definite for a HArdtail; but brand specific. Nukeproof insert hasnt saved my Horizon rim @24 PSI. Gone through 2 rims. Need ones that actually cover the rim edge. Will use diff brand. BTW - Intense Primer & Dartmoor Hornet
CushCore was so hard to put in and a shop charging $40 to put a new tire on with CushCore I got over it really quick. Granted, I'm not smashing my rims too hard all the time and at 200lbs I'm running a higher pressure I have zero need for it. The pedal Look Beautiful! But for $160 I can buy 4 sets of Chester's and my 3 year old Chester's right now, with pins broken from rock strikes, still run and fell AMAZING! Why pay $160?
I can do it quickly it's easy. but there are things that can make it harder: narrow rim like 23 mm,wire bead tyre, it can be torture to remove and install, but that's more the fault of the tyre, but the other factors don't help. The first step is to get the insert on the rim, which easy, align the side channel with the valve, get the rim vertical put big toe on the rim, massage the insert onto the rim fold the last bit on at the top. This should take a few seconds. 30mm rim, and you got more room, easier to push the bead into the centre of the rim. Use a tyre lever or the Cush Core Bead Setter to push the bead into the centre, to make enough slack to pop the last bit with the thumbs, This sohuld take some seconds, quarter minute to half minute. repeat on the other side, I leave the last bit open to fill sealant directly into the tyre then I pop the last bit with my thumbs.
I've always run a liner in my mtb my liner goes between my tube and tire to prevent puncture. Colorado has whats called goat heads Thorn's and without a liner you won't get much riding done. Lol Keepemcoming
As an aggressive rider, I continuously broke aluminum wheels and finally bought cushcore. Cushcore made my aluminum wheels last a bit longer but I still destroyed them on DH tracks and big hits. I finally grew the balls and had the money to buy Santa Cruz DH reserve wheels for my enduro/downhill bike and the SL reserve wheels for my trail bike. Long story short, after buying true quality wheels, knock on wood I haven’t had a wheel untrue or be destroyed since. Not to mention, I run DH casing no matter what scenario, which helps on top of running higher pressures.
What does DH Certified actually mean? I understand that helmets need to be designed to protect for different kinds of impact speeds, which will be massively different for a slow rider like me compared to a pro racer.
I think it's the that the chin guard will protect against a brutal impact, and won't fall off. Some helmets have super weak chin guard. Some helmets are built like a xc helmet, with a weak chin guard. Those are not even marketed at enduro. But I read complaints about the first Fox Proframe, which is marketed as an enduro helmet, I've seen reports of it falling off on impact, rider hitting the face anyway, I saw footage of a rider casing a jump the chin guard got crushed and rider hit the face, I get that it should compress and absorb the impact. But I've even read a claim someone died cus of that helmet. But might be a lie. But it did not look like a good helmet to me anyway. So DH standard must avoid all of that. A regular XC helmet will crack, and might split and if it was built like that and just had a chin guard in additions chin guard might split too. DH helmets must give maximum protection possible without being too heavy and bulky and be compatible with neck braces. So all of this must be taken into consideration when designing, making it, and then there is testing. Where they drop the helmet at certain spot, and repeat it with other spot with another helmet, they test it from all regular angles, top, sides, back, chin guard. But a helmet does not have to be heavy nor above 1000 G to pass the test. I got a cheap one, Leatt Gravity 1.0 DH and it's around 800g. A 2015,2016 Fox Rampage Pro Carbon was around 1200 G I think. But had firmer foam, strong carbon shell, so strong I got hit by my bike on the head once and it barely scratched it.
Hi, Will you be running one in front wheel ? Aswell as rear ?some people reckon the rear is enough . Last year I smashed a rim and it cost me nuff money
9:33 I won't buy these, despite them looking good and looking like good pedals, as I use Pedaling Innovations Catalyst, longer platform for arch support. So all other pedals don't fit me. But they also have XL pedals for massive feet.
Being from Tempe and owning several Titus over the years first ? Was easy. Chris sold his portion Titus in 2001 waited 5yr non compete then started Pivot
Would always run an insert in the rear of a full power ebike due to weight and already destroying one rear ebike rim! Would only consider not running a rear insert with significant reduction in the weight of the bike
No on the inserts. A lot of work for not a lot of gain, in my opinion. I either run too much pressure or don't ride hard enough to damage rims in such a way that a liner would prevent. I still run tubes in my gravel bike but mostly because I'm running higher pressures and it is less hassle than the setup or maintenance of tubeless. I also run tubes in my fat bike due to simplicity since I only ride that a few times a year and usually on groomed snow trails where punctures are not likely. Not worth the upkeep for tubeless at that point. Plus there are few sealants that still work well below freezing as well.
I’ve never needed them. It’s not that rocky round here, and all rounded rocks except for lumps of flint. I don’t get punctures with MTB and gravel tubeless, except with a Gravelking SK, most puncture prone tyre ever. It will flat on you and not seal as it’s so thin but then fitting an insert would negate the only benefit of it being a supple tyre. The cost of inserts for what is essentially a piece of foam is utterly ridiculous. I thought about making my own using builders backing foam rods, but just don’t feel the need to.
Most tyres have puncture protection, unless it's super light XC tyres with no extra protection. Those are only good for asphalt and smooth gravel and had packed dirt. No rough stuff. But no tyre will protect against a big nail or super sharp and long class bit. Knobby tyres give some more clearance so help a bit. But adding much more rubber or protection layers will make the tyre super heavy. But there are DH casing tyres, maximum puncture protection, extra thick side walls. But if you want to run tubes and a tyre insert and have protection directly next to the tyre Tannus is worth a look. I've not tried, it nor the tubeless version. If only tubeless then Cush Core is great.
@@mtbboy1993How would extra material weigh more than the same extra material as a seperate insert? Dont think you understand what Im suggesting, Im not talking about puncture protection belts like on commuter tires lol
@@milesjcarter Sorry for the confusion. That's not what I meant. It depends. Not much weight if it's not done to the extreme, but I find Cush Core to be light, so a bit heavier tyre won't hurt. But I don't know how hevay it will be and exactly what you want, but I guess you want more protection all around the tyre, especially at the top for punctures. Defenitly doable. I don't know why it's not been done yet. But a enduro/dh tyre is heavy at around 1 kg. I guess the knobs, mid section with protection, is the the heaviest part. If dh casing with wire bead that adds weight too. 257g is not heavy, for me, feels feather right to me, so if adding even that much to the tyre I won't mind. I see some tyres are around that much heavier already, but those are DH casing tyres or just enduro tyres that are heavier. I see some glue protective strip on the inside eof the tyre. I've not tried it, and forgot the name of it. So you can add extra protection to any tyre this way.
I have one grind with inserts: the price. Vittoria and the other manufactures go out of their ways to convince you to buy their tyres - Graphene here, Nylon there, Kevlar whatever - and then they place a piece of blank foam at an equal or higher price with zero information about why you should buy their foam? It's extremely odd, especially when you add the "you have to buy (our) special milk and (our) special valves, as well" milarky into the mix. I see the benefits, but i cannot see the price. Either their tyres are heavily underpriced or the piece of foam is incredibly overpriced. If they play the price on your fear of damaging your rim - then that's simply disgusting. edit: from an enviromental point of view (preserve first) as well as from the obvious social pov.
I was curious about those. Good to know it actually works. For vibration damping I guess that will help, but reducing the volume of the tyre makes it possible to run slightly less air. Also the tyre is is more secure, but also it protects against smaller impacts, like riding into a stair step, without the rim will bend at the bead. This can happen when you lose quickly. But usually this is due to just getting a puncture seconds before or valve core loosening, so always have a valve core tool with you, my valve caps have it built in, but also have it in Wolftooth pack pliers.
Or they and their support teams have assessed whether they are effective or not and for some reason we are not aware of determined they are not effective for their needs. 🙃
I had so many punctures in the past I could not stand it with tubes. But municipality seems to clean up more often or less drunks smashing glass, so don't get punctures often, and if I do not big ones. I remember puncturing 28 times in a month many years ago, on separate rides. But I do have tubes on a bike I ride less. I've even experienced taking tubes out of the box and them leaking It was many years ago, it was Kenda, don't know if someone in the store damaged it, or if it was faulty, but only experienced it once or twice I think. Tried Continental tubes, never had that issue, the light tubes. So before you ride always test the tube first see if it hold before going for a long ride, having a spare or two is a good idea too. @jan1474
The day will come when someone invents a tire that won't go flat or peal off the rim if its afixed too rim wall... Kind like bolting or wedging the tire bead too the rim like bead-locks... just saying is all
Racers are not engineers. Rarely good school graders too. Of course they are succeptible to prejudice. And they are stubborn as well, but this is another side of determination that makes them good at sport.
What is your opinion on tyre inserts? Are they lifesavers or just added weight? Let us know in the comments below! 👇
I use Nukeproof ARDs in rear both for my Trail Fullsus and my XC Hardtail and I love them!!! Because of the extra protection but also because I do love the feeling of light supple casings and relatively mow air pressure and so they are like spacer in the fork to me!!!
I've run them in the past, but moving back to heavier rear tyre (DD Maxxis Minion + DT Swiss Rim) has meant that I haven't really needed them.
I think if I were to do the Mega again, I might opt for one in the rear (just because of the length of the race) - but for everyday UK riding and Enduro races, I don't think they are needed anymore.
I ran inserts for about 6 months....never again. IMO the marginal gains in terms of lowering tyre pressure made little to no difference to my style of riding. However, the added faff of installation (never mind sorting tyre punctures trailside ie having to put a tube in), set up sealant faff, valves constantly getting blocked, the total ball ache if you want to swap tyres etc etc was enough to turn me away from them. I'll run my tyres with 2-3 extra psi and happily live without them. Emperors new clothes if you ask me!
Procore any time. It even makes tyre seating easier, actively pushing tyre bead from the inside. And it is the only system I can justify cost of. It's a system, comes with all you need and isn't just a piece of plastic with a leaflet.
I am a weekend warrior and it took me some pains to switch to tubeless. I finally learned that tyre-rim compatibility was very important. So now I ride tubeless. To go to inserts? That is a whole level up in headache. While I agree that things do happen, the added fuss over inserts makes them not worth it for me. If it built my skill up to where I was jumping off larger ramps and therefore landing harder I would definitely reconsider.
"I love propain and propain accessories!" - Hank Hill.
IYKYK
There trying to outlaw propane and propane accessories. The gov.
Biggest issue I had was when I did finally get a puncture with a Schwalbe Procore in and I couldn't even get the tyre off the rim. That was the last day I ran inserts.
That's a you problem
Yes, and that's why he changed. Any tire change on the side of a muddy trail can be quite challenging
It's almost impossible to get a tyre off when there's dry mud all over and in between the tyre/rim. I was running 17mm rims with insert and a 2.25 " schwalbe racing ralph..crazy hard to get on and it never sits well. Upgraded my wheel to 24mm and boom everything good
I use a Tannus for the hardtail, and Vittoria XC on the trail bike. The Tannus seems bombproof, but you definitely feel it in the tire. I prefer the Vittoria as it seems to work, but otherwise I don't notice it.
I run my bikes with a Tannus Armour Insert and an inner tube filled with sealant. Old Skool with a twist which works for me! I absolutely love this setup (to the absolute dismay of my riding pals who have all gone tubeless). It gives me extra peace of mind out on the trails and is both quick, easy and clean to install at home.
This is the comment that I was looking for.Thank you. I believe that the Armour and the tire sealant is a good option.
@ Happy you found it. Tip: I use Stans inner sealant which I can highly recommend. In the US you have other options that are not available in the UK!
@@JohnChristopher-k7u Thanks again.
Been running Rimpact in my carbon rims for 3 years and love them. Haven't gotten a traditional flat but the time my valve leaked they saved me from a long walk.
Rimpact Pro makes the wheels so stiff, lots of hands fatigue. I don't like it.
@@babenkoff yeah I run 17psi in the front and 20psi in the rear. And I'm probably 230 kitted up.
@@HindsightFPV low pressure doen't help much :(
@@babenkoffare you running a heavy/still tire casing? It's odd that even at lower pressure they still feel harsh. If I run too low I can feel my tire wallowing around. Maybe it has to do with the combination you're running interior width of the rim, tire size ect.
@@HindsightFPV EXO+ tire casing. I took out Rimpact from the front wheel and immediately feel difference. Much more comfortable ride.
Aaron Gwin bought shares in Crestline bikes, also set up his own DH team using Crestline.
Years Ago I chose to not go for heavy double downs etc, and went with lighter tires and cushcores instead. Never had the problem of rolling the rim over the tire in corners again. The combination is also lighter.
Happy with Cushcore! Been using them for 7 years, at least. Dh, enduro, xc, I use cushcore pro. I ride over 200 days a year, and need to budget tires, rims, rebuilds, plus do all the work myself. Easy decision, easy technique after a couple swaps. Still carry a tube in my backpack. Cushcore is a tire a damper and beadlocker. No need for low pressure burping in berms, or ripping knobs off an overinflated carcass. I have won the races, claimed the koms, but just being able to rip without hemmhoraging budget feels awesome. Everyone is different.
I'm about 160 kitted up and I like the feel of 2.6s at around 20 psi.. they grip so nicely on rock surfaces and they're good in the sand, both of which are abundant in SoCal. You can feel the support in hard turns. they allow the low psi grip without sacrificing support in hard turns IMO (IME)
Owen is right. Tubes do have their place. On my Orbea Rallon. It's in the bag inside the downtube. On my Orbea Laufey. It's in my backpack. The only time they'll wate space inside my tyres. Is what I get the one flat. The sealant and tyre put can't fix.
You had us going in the first half! 😂 But you're very right, always best to be prepared
3:22 No need to replace the wheel, that's only a good idea if your wheels are junk, then you replace the wheels, but other wise just replace the rim, tape the new rim to the old and transfer the spokes and nipples, then tighten remove the old rim, tighten the spokes in the truing stand, and true the wheel. while you are at it wider rims would be a good idea. if the bike has room for it. I find 30mm to be nice. Not tried everything.
Keep in mind if you don't get exact same rim the height might be different. So make sure it's not too big difference. Some rims are asymmetric, so get what is compatible with your set up, if already good rims in appropriate width, get the same rims.
On my hardtail I like a soft compound rear because it rebounds slower and an insert to make it progressive. It feels like I have 30mm of travel! The insert also controls side flex at lower psi.
What combination tire and insert do you run on your HT?
Rear 29x2.6 Maxxis Dissector Exo MaxGrip with Rimpact at 19 to 20 psi. Front is Assegai 2.6 with rimpact at 15 psi. I weight 190lbs. Alum rims @@MrJacobegg
@@j.albertogratacos2076 thanks!
The Gen 2 redesign for privateer is a massive step back when it comes to looks.
I’ve run tannus Armour inserts in my wheels for years and never had any punctures or issues
Same here, love my Tannus.
I’ve always thought inserts made more sense as tire size gets larger. They make a lot of sense for low-pressure fat bike tires, or plus tires, but make little sense on XC tires that should have sufficient pressure.
Somebody needs to come up with Beadlock MTB Wheels
Man if that could be light weight, I hope someone out there is doing this exact thing!
They'd add an extra 500 grams minimum. They would be hard to engineer to spoked rims and be able to remove in under an hour
Does your tire often spin inside the wheel or lose the bead? There's no need for them because no one runs tire pressures below 20psi, and no one can peddle hard enough to spin the tire inside the wheel. Tire Technology and inserts have already solved the problems with tubeless.
Pro riders get their rims sponsored so they value the weight more than the protection.
I have 3 gravel bikes (1 is a bikepacking bike), 2 hardtail xc bikes, and a full suspension xc bike. All 29ers, all with the appropriate CushCore inserts. 100% fan of inserts, it's a totally different handling feel than no inserts, plus the lower air pressure with progression, much like tokens in your forks.
Aaron Gwin will be racing with Crestline, which he also has ownership share..
I just finished dialing in the initial settings on my full sus MTB, and the Vittoria inserts are good, but for my skill level, they are overkill. They also make putting tires on much more difficult. I'm actually going to be removing them and redoing my rim tape. I fear that due to this difficulty and my inexperience of installing inserts may have damaged my rim tape. Also, stay away from Stan's "tubeless" valve stems on Industry Nine wheels. The valves leak air like a sieve.
Was destroying rear tyres on my Spectral ON. I’m a heavy and aggressive rider and the tyres were splitting and the side casing. Went to a Vittoria tyre liner and never had a problem since. End of last year I had to replace the tyre as it had worn out and the Vitoria liner looked like new. I’m hooked. Put Cush Core on my Spectral 29 straight out of the box.
Running a Vittoria air liner , Vittoria syerras, i9 Enduro rims on my rear tire . Nukeproof scout . XXL. I liked it immediately. Saved me from walking once and gives the hardtail a little more extra traction. Ill get more airliners at least for the hardtail and less aggressive tires.
Cush core in the front tire offers night and day improvement in grip, cornering, and on the face of jumps. Can't imagine ever pulling them out of my front tire.
I love my new propain hugene! Now I just have to wait for this New England winter to pass so I can get out at on trail. Super stoked to see propain on the channel, I really hope you guys build up a hugene!!
Aaron is now with Crestline bikes 😘
Helps protect rear tyre and wheel on a HT. Alt. Is a double ply tyre but that they are hard work! BTW very interesting EMBN about optimal rear tyre rolling pressure = 20psi. So adjust other parameters around that.
#askgmbntech Just to add to the #ride4mb comment - I originally submitted the name 'Bonneyville' to the Bike Park Wales crew for a trail naming competition - it didn't win - but they used it for a trail later that year - hence why it has that spelling - not the original Bonneville (as in Bonneville Salt Flats) spelling
I'm offended you dissed tubes. haha. Tannus liners for tubes is what works for me! You'd probably turn your noses up at my 27.5s, too!
Graham Foot did Bigfoot bikes BITD, and the Smokestone was originally a model of Bigfoot
I use Rimpact Inserts in my Hardtail. Pretty sure that they saved my beloved Hope Rims a few times. Only thing is, they change the feel, especially in the rear tyre when ridden with a low pressure.
87kg Running trail casing Butcher & Eliminator on a Megatower 2 on Black rocky tech, haven't had a flat YET - now Ive said that I will get one this weekend...
I remember watching a video by Ben Cathro 5 years ago, where he had a puncture, it's titled: Cushcore couldn't save my wheels 😭// British DH RACE VLOG - Fort William.
Cush Core is not a miracle worker, but it does what it's advertised to do well, and is durable, does not absorb sealant, and does not stretch. I find it easy to install if done correctly, especially on a 30mm rim.
But narrow rim and wire bead tyre will be torture, but that's more the wire bead tyre, but narrow rim and Cush Core make it harder I guess.
He flat spotted the rim and cracked it. Cush Core won't save the rim against big hits, but will protect the rim from bending on smaller impacts like riding slowly into rocks or stairs, at least in my experience.
But blasting trough For William as fast as possible is another story, losing air then smashing hard.
I like my Tannus inserts because they help stiffen the sidewalls on my 2,6 Schwalbe Rocket Rons.
I run them @ 12psi in the rear and 11.5 psi front.
I run carbon We Are One Convert rims 27.5" with 35mm internal width!
I run one one the rear of my hardtail, helps keep the spokes from loosening
10:36 I like the livery, nice blue and white, but I dislike it not having mesh to protect against insects, leafs and what ever else getting inside and bothering the rider, but not fun to get a bee or fly stuck in the helmet. So it's a No from me. I don't know if the fit has changed, but I tried Giro helmets many years ago, and the shape did not fit my head. No idea if these will fit.
Features a helmet must have for me to buy it:
good vents
mesh on all vents
D-ring buckle or something as secure. I like D-Ring, but some don't I find it easy to use, some not, I've never had any issues with it, only thing is if it gets wet it it is sub zero temps, it can freeze, but a bit of heat and it's loosened, No problem really.
Removable pads and and liner, so I can clean the helmet.
cheek pads can't wear out, I had this issue on 2015,2016 Fox Rampage Carbon, they got compressed permanently, eventually it got so bad the helmet hit me in the face. I did not get that with the Leatt. Not tried the Giro full face helmets.
I have a Leatt Gravity 1.0 DH , reasonably priced and light, but their gloves and other gear is expensive in comparison.
I'm still fine with my tubes, but also I'm not in business of telling anyone what they should ride. Depends on your priorities, what type of riding you do on that bike, etc.
Tubes are still absolutely fine! Do you get many punctures?
@@gmbntech 2 punnies in 5 years. I wouldn't call that many
If you are a super lightweight rider tubes are easier. Can't remember when I last had a flat. I run 16 to 18 psi. I watch my husband changing tyres and is covered in 'goop' which is highly amusing until I remember I'll be the one washing his clothes! @@ExplosiveNotes
@@TazErrant I'm not light at 90kg, but I think the terrain I ride is not very demanding on keeping air in tires. Practicaly no really sharp rocks around here. The biggest puncture danger for me is going out without checking if I have enough air in my rear tire, hopping up a curb and landing short. 😁
I run inserts on the hardtail rear and on my dilapidated freeriding Jeckyll, I have tried some brands names, also high density foam ones from ali and even some very heavy aerospace foam I found on a Japanese marketplace the conclusion is yes they prevent pinch flats but not sure about the wheels I can still hear the pings n creaks when I hit rocks. I don't have a great sample size I break rims randomly but rarely. They do all have lots of scratches 😢
Traditional tube with sealant added works for me lol.
I’m 290lbs with gear on…definitely run Maxxis DD tires with Cush Core Pro front and rear on my Pivot Switchblade. Wouldn’t run it without the inserts.
you guys should review the dartmoor hornet pro !
I used to use inserts. I now prefer running gravity tires without. In my opinion running a heavy duty casing has far more benefits without much weight penalty. Im 215lbs for reference.
Tried Cushcore on my Ibis carbon rims, hated them. Ruined trail feel and difficult if not impossible to fix anything trail side if need be.
Definite for a HArdtail; but brand specific. Nukeproof insert hasnt saved my Horizon rim @24 PSI. Gone through 2 rims. Need ones that actually cover the rim edge. Will use diff brand. BTW - Intense Primer & Dartmoor Hornet
That's why the nukeproof have always had awful reviews and were discounted heavily
#Quiz Aaron Gwin joining Crestline as part owner and rider
Happy about the new bike sponsor, but Propain doesn't make any hardtails! We all weep with Blake.
CushCore was so hard to put in and a shop charging $40 to put a new tire on with CushCore I got over it really quick.
Granted, I'm not smashing my rims too hard all the time and at 200lbs I'm running a higher pressure I have zero need for it.
The pedal Look Beautiful! But for $160 I can buy 4 sets of Chester's and my 3 year old Chester's right now, with pins broken from rock strikes, still run and fell AMAZING! Why pay $160?
I can do it quickly it's easy. but there are things that can make it harder: narrow rim like 23 mm,wire bead tyre, it can be torture to remove and install, but that's more the fault of the tyre, but the other factors don't help.
The first step is to get the insert on the rim, which easy, align the side channel with the valve, get the rim vertical put big toe on the rim, massage the insert onto the rim fold the last bit on at the top. This should take a few seconds.
30mm rim, and you got more room, easier to push the bead into the centre of the rim.
Use a tyre lever or the Cush Core Bead Setter to push the bead into the centre, to make enough slack to pop the last bit with the thumbs, This sohuld take some seconds, quarter minute to half minute.
repeat on the other side, I leave the last bit open to fill sealant directly into the tyre then I pop the last bit with my thumbs.
My only complaint with tire inserts is the cost. They are significantly over priced.
#quiz It's crestline!
I've always run a liner in my mtb my liner goes between my tube and tire to prevent puncture. Colorado has whats called goat heads Thorn's and without a liner you won't get much riding done. Lol
Keepemcoming
Those look nasty!
As an aggressive rider, I continuously broke aluminum wheels and finally bought cushcore. Cushcore made my aluminum wheels last a bit longer but I still destroyed them on DH tracks and big hits. I finally grew the balls and had the money to buy Santa Cruz DH reserve wheels for my enduro/downhill bike and the SL reserve wheels for my trail bike. Long story short, after buying true quality wheels, knock on wood I haven’t had a wheel untrue or be destroyed since. Not to mention, I run DH casing no matter what scenario, which helps on top of running higher pressures.
What does DH Certified actually mean? I understand that helmets need to be designed to protect for different kinds of impact speeds, which will be massively different for a slow rider like me compared to a pro racer.
I think it's the that the chin guard will protect against a brutal impact, and won't fall off. Some helmets have super weak chin guard. Some helmets are built like a xc helmet, with a weak chin guard.
Those are not even marketed at enduro. But I read complaints about the first Fox Proframe, which is marketed as an enduro helmet, I've seen reports of it falling off on impact, rider hitting the face anyway, I saw footage of a rider casing a jump the chin guard got crushed and rider hit the face, I get that it should compress and absorb the impact. But I've even read a claim someone died cus of that helmet. But might be a lie. But it did not look like a good helmet to me anyway.
So DH standard must avoid all of that.
A regular XC helmet will crack, and might split and if it was built like that and just had a chin guard in additions chin guard might split too.
DH helmets must give maximum protection possible without being too heavy and bulky and be compatible with neck braces.
So all of this must be taken into consideration when designing, making it, and then there is testing. Where they drop the helmet at certain spot, and repeat it with other spot with another helmet, they test it from all regular angles, top, sides, back, chin guard.
But a helmet does not have to be heavy nor above 1000 G to pass the test.
I got a cheap one, Leatt Gravity 1.0 DH and it's around 800g.
A 2015,2016 Fox Rampage Pro Carbon was around 1200 G I think. But had firmer foam, strong carbon shell, so strong I got hit by my bike on the head once and it barely scratched it.
Won’t be long until tubes are the best thing again 😂
been using cushcore for more than a year 0 punctures ;-)
For the mega, I plan to use them because I cannot afford to have a punny there after everything I have and will have done to get there as a rookie!
Hi,
Will you be running one in front wheel ? Aswell as rear ?some people reckon the rear is enough . Last year I smashed a rim and it cost me nuff money
My big wheeler had solid tires they never went flat LOL
Aaron Gwin has 1 third stake in Crestline Bikes.
People don’t realize they need to run lower pressure with the inserts or it feels harsh.
Cush Core recommends around a drop of 5 PSI I think. But if not already running too low pressure yes drop it.
9:33 I won't buy these, despite them looking good and looking like good pedals, as I use Pedaling Innovations Catalyst, longer platform for arch support. So all other pedals don't fit me.
But they also have XL pedals for massive feet.
Being from Tempe and owning several Titus over the years first ? Was easy. Chris sold his portion Titus in 2001 waited 5yr non compete then started Pivot
if it wasn’t for cushcore i would not ride any cushcore isn’t just for protection it makes the ride feel so much better unlike others
Crestline Bikes and Aaron Gwin FTW! Gwin should rename Windrock Bike Park to Gwindrock Bike Park! #askgmbntech
Would always run an insert in the rear of a full power ebike due to weight and already destroying one rear ebike rim! Would only consider not running a rear insert with significant reduction in the weight of the bike
No on the inserts. A lot of work for not a lot of gain, in my opinion. I either run too much pressure or don't ride hard enough to damage rims in such a way that a liner would prevent.
I still run tubes in my gravel bike but mostly because I'm running higher pressures and it is less hassle than the setup or maintenance of tubeless. I also run tubes in my fat bike due to simplicity since I only ride that a few times a year and usually on groomed snow trails where punctures are not likely. Not worth the upkeep for tubeless at that point. Plus there are few sealants that still work well below freezing as well.
I can't help but wonder what kind of weight is gained overtime with sealant seeping into the foam
The sealant is 80% water that evaporates.
@@muthatrucker6485 oh ok, that's good to know!
#quiz aaron gwin has just bought 1/3 of crestline cycles and is riding for them
I’ve never needed them. It’s not that rocky round here, and all rounded rocks except for lumps of flint. I don’t get punctures with MTB and gravel tubeless, except with a Gravelking SK, most puncture prone tyre ever. It will flat on you and not seal as it’s so thin but then fitting an insert would negate the only benefit of it being a supple tyre.
The cost of inserts for what is essentially a piece of foam is utterly ridiculous. I thought about making my own using builders backing foam rods, but just don’t feel the need to.
Separate tire inserts will be replaced by tires that have equivalent protection built in under the carcass layer
We can dream
Most tyres have puncture protection, unless it's super light XC tyres with no extra protection.
Those are only good for asphalt and smooth gravel and had packed dirt. No rough stuff.
But no tyre will protect against a big nail or super sharp and long class bit.
Knobby tyres give some more clearance so help a bit.
But adding much more rubber or protection layers will make the tyre super heavy.
But there are DH casing tyres, maximum puncture protection, extra thick side walls.
But if you want to run tubes and a tyre insert and have protection directly next to the tyre Tannus is worth a look. I've not tried, it nor the tubeless version.
If only tubeless then Cush Core is great.
@@mtbboy1993How would extra material weigh more than the same extra material as a seperate insert? Dont think you understand what Im suggesting, Im not talking about puncture protection belts like on commuter tires lol
@@milesjcarter Sorry for the confusion. That's not what I meant. It depends.
Not much weight if it's not done to the extreme, but I find Cush Core to be light, so a bit heavier tyre won't hurt. But I don't know how hevay it will be and exactly what you want, but I guess you want more protection all around the tyre, especially at the top for punctures. Defenitly doable. I don't know why it's not been done yet. But a enduro/dh tyre is heavy at around 1 kg.
I guess the knobs, mid section with protection, is the the heaviest part. If dh casing with wire bead that adds weight too. 257g is not heavy, for me, feels feather right to me, so if adding even that much to the tyre I won't mind. I see some tyres are around that much heavier already, but those are DH casing tyres or just enduro tyres that are heavier.
I see some glue protective strip on the inside eof the tyre. I've not tried it, and forgot the name of it. So you can add extra protection to any tyre this way.
Inserts are good solutions to ride extra low pressures, else is DD or DH casing enough.
if I was a pro rider (sponsored)... I wouldn't be as worried about my rims as I am (the weekend shredder on a budget)
I have one grind with inserts: the price. Vittoria and the other manufactures go out of their ways to convince you to buy their tyres - Graphene here, Nylon there, Kevlar whatever - and then they place a piece of blank foam at an equal or higher price with zero information about why you should buy their foam? It's extremely odd, especially when you add the "you have to buy (our) special milk and (our) special valves, as well" milarky into the mix.
I see the benefits, but i cannot see the price. Either their tyres are heavily underpriced or the piece of foam is incredibly overpriced. If they play the price on your fear of damaging your rim - then that's simply disgusting. edit: from an enviromental point of view (preserve first) as well as from the obvious social pov.
#quiz Crestline bikes
Buy a wired tires and just out tube! You'll have more fun because you dont have to worry about flats
I don't need inserts, because I have Spank Vibrocore rims.
I was curious about those. Good to know it actually works.
For vibration damping I guess that will help, but reducing the volume of the tyre makes it possible to run slightly less air. Also the tyre is is more secure, but also it protects against smaller impacts, like riding into a stair step, without the rim will bend at the bead. This can happen when you lose quickly. But usually this is due to just getting a puncture seconds before or valve core loosening, so always have a valve core tool with you, my valve caps have it built in, but also have it in Wolftooth pack pliers.
I still run tubes 🚲 🎈 🎉
I pay for my tyres and rims and having inserts saved it all
Pros don't have to pay for broken rims or walk home right?
Good point 🤔
Aaron Gwin bought part of cristalline bikes and created created gwin race also bought the entire bike park wind rock
Or they and their support teams have assessed whether they are effective or not and for some reason we are not aware of determined they are not effective for their needs. 🙃
Tannus inserts with tubes are my choice, too many bikes to be troubled with tubeless...
Good point. Tubeless is nice and better, but having to deal with it on many bikes is a hassle. So for bike you reide a lot yes, others no.
4 of 10 get the most Seat time and it's so much fun with a simple air pressure check up...
I had so many punctures in the past I could not stand it with tubes. But municipality seems to clean up more often or less drunks smashing glass, so don't get punctures often, and if I do not big ones. I remember puncturing 28 times in a month many years ago, on separate rides. But I do have tubes on a bike I ride less. I've even experienced taking tubes out of the box and them leaking It was many years ago, it was Kenda, don't know if someone in the store damaged it, or if it was faulty, but only experienced it once or twice I think. Tried Continental tubes, never had that issue, the light tubes. So before you ride always test the tube first see if it hold before going for a long ride, having a spare or two is a good idea too. @jan1474
Crestline
Propane, and propane accessories
Crestline bikes
industry went tubeless, now adding inserts. just put a damn tube filled with slime in it - darn near bullet proof (as can be)
Adding rotational mass is never a good thing in my bike world.
Owen you too are a keyboard warrior I’ve see your medals😉
I don’t like tire inserts , pain , air token feel ,
solid tyres ?
The day will come when someone invents a tire that won't go flat or peal off the rim if its afixed too rim wall...
Kind like bolting or wedging the tire bead too the rim like bead-locks... just saying is all
Just f@cking put a tube in your wheels problem solved
Racers are not engineers. Rarely good school graders too. Of course they are succeptible to prejudice. And they are stubborn as well, but this is another side of determination that makes them good at sport.
#quiz - Aaron Gwin just became a joint-owner of Crestline Bikes (technically he didn't 'buy-in')