I don’t even own a triton and never driven one. But I watched the whole video. The video is one of the best (if not the best) to explain and fix the problem. I can see you put in time and patience to make this video. Other car channels should learn from you.
Hi Max I have a 2014 triton with over heating issues. I by passed the egr cooler which proved to be the cause of the over heating. My son also has a 2013 triton with overheating issues, so after doing the egr cooler by pass it still had over heating issues. Good news is mitsubishi will warrant the defect and replace the engine under warranty. Thanks Max as we would never have known this without your video. Gratts61
That's great news Steve! At least you were able to diagnose your Triton. I've found Mitsubishi to be quite reasonable with the engine claims. It is so common, it's hard to ignore it. Glad the video helped. Check out other Triton videos on the channel that may interest you. 😉
Awesome vid, you're a great teacher. I'm an aging spanner (with a triton mn) who usually does my own repairs. Sometimes I reckon it's better to send it to a bloke like you though! 😉
Cheers Neil! I'm glad I can share these videos with people who are interested in learning. Keep up the good work! Thanks for your comments MiracleMAX 😉
Hey Max, thank you for the video, my triton Engine had similar issues of heating, It later siezed- melting piston number 1. Earlier my mechanic had replaced the radiator cap, flashed the radiator, changed the thermostat and finally the head gasket . At the end of It all we lost the engine. Am in the process of procuring an Ex-Japan Engine, Thanks Incase it overheats I know where to start. Joshua - Kenya
Hey Hugh, My thoughts exactly. So I bought a Ekon camera (cheap, nasty GoPro rip off) which I have used several times on later videos. Thanks for watching. 😁 Say tuned for another Triton with overheating problems - this time a lot more severe!
Had a comment from Arthur Vergara, but it disappeared. 'Finally found video that solve overheating problem on mn triton.. thanks for this detailed vid. run up the same problem on my triton, overheating. Coolant keeps filling up the overflow bottle.. been battling this problem for quite sometime now. Please hook me up where to find genuine egr cooler.. thank you! Your videos are so detailed and tons of infomation to learned.' Hey Arthur Vergara, I have looked for a quality non-genuine cooler, but they don't seem to be available. Here are the genuine part numbers I used, which were sourced from a Mitsuibishi dealer. You will have to check that these suit your vehicle - they may be different. 1582A201 EGR Cooler 1582A035 Gasket MR161679 Gaskets I hope that helps MiracleMAX
Yeah good session and enjoy your style, Kiwi ?, I would not have thought of EGR cooler, I was thinking "repetitive coolant evaporation" good info mate!
Nah, Aussie, Ken Jones. Took me a while to figure out. The Common Rail Diesels do suffer from cooler problems on occasion. Glad you got something from the video. Check out the rest on the channel! 😉 MiracleMAX
Mn Triton owner here, potentially you have saved me a lot of coin with that heads up, just ordered a tee kay test kit, hopes that it is egr, thanks for that l!
Hey Chad, Just be aware that the TK head check is not always reliable with diesel engines. Stay tuned for an updated video with overheating Triton 4D56 engines. 😁
@@2008_suzuki_apv Hey Chad, Just make sure you look through the recall information listed in the video description. It might be worth a trip to the dealership as these had head/engine issues that might still be covered under warranty. australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685
Thanks for that, I believe we are up to date, this is the second block as the first was a bad batch, but they recycled everything else off the old engine where as I believe they should’ve replaced the entire engine. Are you in Brisbane or goldy by any chance??
@@MiracleMAX no overheating issues I just put 4 new pistons in the motor lots of bolts to remember and forgot how to put the little bugga back on has been a few months
Got a 2014 MN just under 200,000k. Out of warranty. Same issues. Took to Mitsubishi, and got an entire engine placed under warranty. Common issue. Before I went to Mitsubishi however, had one mechanic try and tell me my radiator was gone and wanted to charge $1000 to replace it. Another mechanic gave me the advice to see the dealership, as he had another customers with issues and they too got full engines replaced.
Well done Lewmish Miles! Yes, these do have problems and they do get replaced under warranty. But unless you ask, you won't know. I'm sure you are glad that you got a second opinion! 😊 MIracleMAX
I have a 2011 Triton and it's been giving me the similar overheating problems. Took it to my mechanic he's run all sorts of tests on the cooling system, except the EGR one. He was suggesting that it could be the cylinder head gasket but now that I've seen this, I'll ask him to check the EGR before we escalate things to the cylinder head.
Hey Simoko James Phiri , Welcome to the channel. Here are a few videos that although they are on a different vehicle, the principles are the same. ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html I hope you are able to get the fault sorted 😊 MiracleMAX
Well done diagnosing the fault, however replacing the ERG cooler was a waste of money! I would have left the bypass hose connected and install an EGR delete cable and put a blocking plate on the cooler to stop the exhaust gasses going through. This also has the benefit of stopping that disgusting exhaust from going into the intake and destroying the motor......
Hey Fox Md, Thanks for your comments. While your suggestions may be what is considered the ideal solution, as a technician and business owner, I can not do or recommend these sort of repairs as they are illegal due to emission standards. The EGR system is used to reduce NOx gasses being released into the atmosphere which helps create smog and acid rain that damages our environment. I appreciate your thoughts. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Yes you are 100% correct, and very eloquently put, as a business owner who is posting on youtube you should be following the law. I said it's something I would do but I'm not a mechanic so I would never tell you what you should do, however I can tell you a thing or two about the environment! Right now there are 45 erupting volcano's globally, these volcano's will pump out more C02, NOx gasses and create more smog and acid rain in one hour than man can create in a year. I know the Government will tell you it us and that's why we need to have another tax, but giving the government more money won't change the environment. Anyway EV's will be here in the next two to five years which means no more ICE vehicles to pollute, service or repair.
Hey mate I’m a bit stuck at the moment and was hoping you could tell me how you did the egr bypass with the hose as I think I have the same issue and want to test it. Do you just use a 16 mm hose with a joiner or something and hose clamps? Thanks
Yes Josh, that is correct. You simply put in a hose to extend it past the cooler. If you are having overheating issues, it might be worth watching this video I made. ua-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/v-deo.html
Hey Max. I have a 2013 triton with 4D56 engine. I had the overheating issue back in January this year. The mechanic cleaned the radiator and filled it with coolant. It worked fine until today it started overheating again while I was doing a long steep mountainside road. Do you think if I change the radiator cap and fit it with a 127 kpa one will remedy the issue?
Hi max. I have a suspected EGR cooler issue at the moment. Risky asking for advice on the internet I know 😅 But I'm at a loss.. I have a black sludgy substance building up on the radiator cap...It was brand new as of Friday last week so it's been on for 8 days.. The old one looked the same (I wish I could post pictures here so you could see how excessive it is) It's not getting hot, It's not using coolant and there is no milkshake machine happening in the sump. It's also a 2.5lt MN Triton, Auto. The turbo is a bit tired (soon to be replaced).. I replaced the head gasket and decked the head about 12 months ago.. I didn't deck the block but I did a bit of a wild job with a straight edge and some fine sand paper.. I have had this this to Fraser Island twice and hit some pretty rough tracks since doing the head gasket and had no issues... This has only appeared in the last 3 months or so. This one has me stumped. I hope it's not a cracked block/sleeve or something stupid like that. I might bypass the EGR cooler in the short term and see if that has any effect.. I am open to suggestions.
You can always contact me and send photos via Email at miraclemax3@hotmail.com I think bypassing the EGR cooler is the cheapest and easiest diagnostic test to do to start with. Does this have an automatic or manual transmission?
Hello, do you by chance have the engine manual available or know where to get one? My local mitsubishi dealer doesn't supply no more ND be searching the internet for one, doing thermostat replacement
Hi MAX, thanks your nice and detailed video.. Just wondering, I’d blocked egr inlet and outlet gases.. If i make it permanent bypass coolant on that egr cooler, is it causes any problem? And is it can appear egr error code? Thank you
My plan is I want to bypass that coolant hose, take a car run for 1 day(at least 200km) and look for the result.. Is quite expensive to purchase radiator pressure test kit.. If this method is too risky, unfortunately i need to buy that kit.. I’m appreciate any of your suggestions MAX.. Tq again
Hey Arif Shariff, I suggest you check out the comments I have made to Rick Daniel Villanueva as well as roshan chitan below. This engine is designed to run with an EGR valve and most likely will bring on a check engine light if a delete is carried out. I provide more detail in the comments below. Thanks for your comment. MiracleMAX
Some choose to do an EGR delete, but it is illegal. There are huge fines for both the owner of the vehicle and the workshop that carries out the work. However, heaps of people do it. I wouldn't do it as the vehicle is designed to run with the system. Fault codes will eventually be triggered if you leave the cooler bypassed.
@@MiracleMAX many people would feel duped into thinking they have purchased a diesel for longevity egr coolers are such weak points and it seems when a coolant loss is detected it’s too late even for the mechanically savvy. I have an older 1.9tdi in Skoda Octavia it has proven longevity being non common rail and no exhaust emissions dpf or ad blue. Just to get most out of it to 500k catch can and temporarily bypass cooler (as it’s easily reversible) go from there. Great content and seem to scratch your head same as any other logical bloke
@@wyatthurts1729 Thanks for your comment. Too many people are convinced that buying a CRD is the answer. Yes if you run long distances. Not for your typical 'soccer mum' . The DPF never gets a chance to heat up properly for regeneration, inlet systems clog with carbon & injectors are expensive to replace. I personally would only buy a petrol, non turbo vehicle. But that's me and for my situation. Yes you are right, I do a lot of head scratching - that's why I have been going bald for years! 🤣
I am using triton vgt 2.5 2013. Its overheat when climbing hill. The triton using single layer radiator. I have change it to double layer radiator and change the thermostat. The problem finally solved.
Hey Dan.U, That's a great question. If we open the wastegate or disconnect the VGT actuator, the turbo loses a lot of it's boost, therefore there will be less pressure in the EGR system. If the bubbles change when this is done, reconnect it and the amount of bubbles increase, this could mean a leak in the EGR cooler. With less pressure in the EGR system, the pressure difference between the exhaust system and the cooling system will make the leak more obvious. I gave a link to a video in the description that explains it as well. ua-cam.com/video/bC52wdRcr-A/v-deo.html Thanks for your comment. MiracleMAX
@@mebob5842 Since the heat should be removed by radiation to the ambient outside temperature, the bottom hose should be colder than the top. The cooler coolant will enter back into the water jackets around the cylinders to once again transfer heat via conduction (through solids) as well as convection (though liquid or gas). It's a continuous cycle of heat transfer. So, the bottom hose should be cooler than the top.
Hey mate love the video! Very informative! I have an MN triton 2015, pulled the radiator out had it cleaned, put new thermostat and hoses on and fill with water for now, heater works great but now my scan tool tells me that my coolant temp sits at 94-95 degrees at 100km. I've bled the system, sat funnel in full of water, and there's no air bubbles coming threw, is this temp too high? any suggestions or ideas? Thankyou!
Hey Tyler, Can I ask why you did all those repairs to start with? Was it just maintenance? What did the scan tool say the temp was before the repairs? What pressure is written on the cap - 127 degrees?
@@MiracleMAX Went to the high country over the long weekend, it got hot on me and boiled when doing one of the tracks, on the way home for the 3 hour drive it sat on 89 degrees. I radiator turned it was 65% blocked on the outside. It's a 127kpa cap. But I think I've got bigger problems now as it has a heap of little bubbles in radiator and it's like it almost foams up.
@@tylerdunn8020 That doesn't sound healthy. I am just dealing with an overheating 4D56 at the moment and have it in at the dealership hoping for warranty. Have a look at this link dealing with the overheating issues. australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685 How many kilometres and what year is it?
@@tylerdunn8020 The one I have at the dealership for a possible warranty claim is 2015 with 190,000Km. It's worth taking it to the dealership to see if you can get a claim. They will ask you to pay for their assessment and then if the warranty is valid, they will reimburse you for the testing.
Love watching your triton vids as I have the exact same vehicle. What coolant is recommended for this vehicle. Red/green/blue. I want to flush my coolant but all very confusing.
Hey Warren10241, Thanks for that! The best way to find out what fluids are required for your vehicle is to visit a site with 'datateck' after the name. For example, here is the Castrol site: www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ Just fill in the details and it will provide all the information you need. If you use a different brand, simply put that brand name in front of datateck. Stay tuned for more Triton videos shortly..... MiracleMAX
hi hope you can advise me i have 2009 l200 and mine overheats but not all the time its on and off , ive checked the usual headgasket tell tail signs and nothing , mine works ok perfect for say 25 miles then after this the temp goes up into red then after few mins randomly comes back too normal im thinking thermostat does that sound right
Hey SLUGSLINGER, Firstly you need to determine if your gauge is working correctly. How many kilometres has the vehicle done? Is it petrol or diesel? Is the coolant level correct and holding pressure? Certainly, a thermostat could cause the symptoms you are talking about, especially if it returns to normal after a period of time. There are also other faults that could cause this as well. Here are some tests you could try shown in these videos. ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX ua-cam.com/video/3Hsa5v9uQgs/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX Let us know if you find the fault. 😊 MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX 90000miles , diesel , ive changed the thermostat today so will see how that does , is it normal for them too open really slow when dropped into boiling water as my old one is very slow
@@theyorkshirelad. Thanks for sharing your repair. A thermostat is rated to open at a specific temperature and they will not open until that temp is reached. They use a wax pellet in the bottom, which expands when heated, opening the thermostat. They don't slam open, so it might appear to open slowly. If they open too early, you will end up with a cold running engine, no heaters and poor fuel economy, if it opens too late, the engine will overheat.
I have a 2011 challenger, same engine. These run hot, and a Mitsubishi recall fix was a 127 Kpa rad cap. I think the front positioned inter cooler may contribute to the overheating issue. I.e. 2 extra heat sources in front of the radiator and more resistance to air flow through them. The previous tritons had the inter cooler mounted above the engine, perhaps a better arrangement.
Hey Ricky Bobby, That is a broad question. The thermostats are generally 82', but due to a lot of overheating issues with the 4D56, they recommended changing the cap to a 127kpa & altering the coolant mix to 50%, rather than 30%. forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2327089 That being said, I have had the temperature reading on the scan tool up to 96' in the workshop. I have also listed the recall information in the description above. MiracleMAX
I have a late 2014 triton that is overheating on load (eg up hill). I have had all cooling system stuff replaced and still doing it. Are you in Brisbane or do you know somebody in Brisbane that can diagnose it?
Awesome video keen for more! I have a 2014 MN had Overheating issues tool to Mitsubishi and had engine replaced due to warranty etc. With new engine- driving on beach, towing or even today going up steep hill on the road the temp began to climb. I pull over and she goes back to operating temp till she's underload again then repeat, driving normally at highway speeds or just casually around town not an issue does not overheat! Been chasing my tale for months trying to work out issues Suspect EGE, FAN or maybe RADIATOR Help?
Hey Regan Lukaszewicz, Was the engine replaced due to overheating or some other reason? Was the radiator flow tested at the time and backflushed? Have you considered what was shown in the video - the EGR cooler? Is it losing coolant or just overheating? Was the thermostat replaced like shown in the video? What coolant has been used and what ratio has been added? Did you see the recall information listed in the description? I hope some of these questions can help you find the fault. MiracleMAX
I also had the same problem with the same vehicle 4D56. After running test after test at the dealership ( god damn never go there again ) they finally took the head off to find the Whole engine was pitted. Replaced the long motor has been running good except engine light repeatedly on with low turbo code throwing up but only when towing. 140k on new engine & started to get warm pulling trailer up the mountain. Have just put a high flow thermostat in & see how that goes. Next if not solved replace radiator hoses ( nearly due ) & flush
@@MiracleMAX this is a great video of exactly what I'm dealing with atm. We have literally done everything you have done and our tests with the blue dye always return blue-green not urine yellow. My thoughts were to flush hoses and radiator next before deciding working towards a new head gasket. Have you ever seen green from your tests at all?
@@benbuckler5375 What happened when you bypassed the EGR cooler? Has your radiator been checked for blockages? Has the thermostat been tested or replaced? Is your coolant at 50% ratio? How many kilometres has the vehicle done? You can end up with a blue/green tinge in the TK fluid, especially if it has been used before on other vehicles & then returned to the bottle. When there is hydrocarbons in the cooling system, the fluid will turn a definite yellow. Do you have pressure loss in the cooling system when hot? Is there coolant loss? Make sure that you put your pressure tester a little higher than the cap rating to stress out the system. Is the viscous fan working correctly? Has the water pump ever been replaced? So is the engine actually overheating or has it just set a code? By how much? Does it do it all the time or just when under load? What temperature is the scan tool telling you the engine is? Hopefully the answers to these questions might point you to a successful diagnosis. Here is another few links that might help as well. ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
Not exactly related to the video, but I have a question you might be able to answer. Is the turbo on the 4d56 (also) water-cooled? There is plumbing that circulates water through the turbo, but I heard that this was designed to heat the engine faster in winter, not to cool the turbo. I ask this because I live in a very hot country and I’m seriously considering isolating the turbo to help with cooling. Thanks in advance.
Hey Shlomo Goldbergerstein , Welcome to the channel! The cooling hoses that you see are to keep the turbo cool. One of the main killers of turbos is poor lubrication followed by overheating. You might be interested in this article dealing on the subject. www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/water-cooling-for-your-turbo/ Also, here is where I changed a turbo on a 4D56 in another video ua-cam.com/video/KiCw5M7OdrE/v-deo.html I hope that answers your question. Cheers MiracleMAX 😉
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the answer! In case you or any of your viewers are interested, I solved the problem by performing the following: 1. Removed the hot air radiator (that goes to the cab), and isolated the water pipes that run there, therefore increasing the volume of water that goes to the actual radiator; 2. Isolated a little tube that circled water straight from the engine back to it, without passing through the radiator. No idea why this even exists. Of course that in some colder climates you can’t afford no heating, but it isn’t a problem in Brazil. My next step will be installing a bigger radiator with an electric fan, and that will do it for good, even in our 45oC summers, or so I hope. Also blocked the EGR valve because, well, why not? My 4d56 has neither a filter nor a radiator connected to it, and the exhaust gasses go back in the engine hot and unfiltered. Once again, thanks for the help. Cheers!!!
@@MiracleMAX hie mate.I have 4d56 triton.Mine raises temeprature gage past half especially on a hot day doing 120km/hr or so but in the morning it drops js above the second line.Also in the morning or first attempt it emmits very white smoke that clears in a minute or so.Also it takes time to start it after running it.It starts faster from cold start than when hot.I took off the thermosta and stil using 0.9 bar radiator cap.What might be the problem?
@@lameck360 Does the coolant level go down? Is the overflow bottle overfull? If this is the case & the modifications are done as suggested in the video description, I suggest you take it to the dealer to diagnose. They may find that it is a blown head gasket due to poor machining of the block during manufacture. If that is the case you should be able to get warranty, regardless of the kilometres it has travelled.
I have just had the same issue on my 2013-14 triton, have noticed recently that the heater works then I’ll stop turn it of then say 20-30min later start up and drive again and the heater takes ages to get hot again.. then all of a sudden today drove about 200-250 Ks got to my destination stopped for maybe half an hour or so then had to go down the road and the car felt like it lost power when taking off (maybe limp mode?) then seen the engine light was on and noticed the temperature was at about 3/4 on the gauge, I pulled over for a bit and seen the coolant had been spitting out of the overflow bottle, I then drove back home with the temp at normal half on the gauge but engine light was still on.. let it cool and had to top it up with close to 2 litres of water... The engine light disappeared and seem to run like nothing happened.. I then checked with a mates Gscan2 tool and it come up with P0217 code but had complete at the end of it? Do I have the same issue as what this car had or could it be something different? I would be so grateful if you could get back to me! Thanks
Hey Josh, Thanks for your comment. P0217 code is Engine Over Temperature . That could mean a range of issues. In basic terms, it means that the engine has overheated. At this point it is important to start with the basics. The code is telling you that the engine overheated. Ask yourself - why? There was coolant loss - why? Any why was the coolant being forced out of the overflow bottle? How many kilometres has the engine done? So, as I said, start with the basics. Carry out a coolant pressure test. Leave it on for quite some time and see if there is some significant pressure drop. Have a REALLY good look for an external coolant leak. Use a light & use a mirror. Check inside the cabin where the heater core is. Does the carpet smell? Does the windscreen fog up. Is the carpet wet? Have the coolant hoses ever been replaced? Is the engine starting up on 3 cylinders and then eventually running on 4? Take note of the recall I have listed in the description above. Are there any bubbles in the radiator? Have you checked for a blown head gasket? ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html Have you removed and tested the thermostat? Is the radiator cap holding pressure? Is the engine fan operating correctly? What is the condition of the coolant? Have you tried bypassing the EGR cooler? Of course, follow any suggestions made in the video above. Here is a link that may be of use to you. www.obd-codes.com/p0217 I hope some of these suggestions might help you diagnose the fault. MiracleMAX
MiracleMAX thanks for the reply, It hasn’t done it again since, but I noticed there is still pressure built up in the radiator when I haven’t driven it all day and I take the radiator cap of to check the coolant.. in your experience is that normal? I’m gonna start with a new cap and new thermostat and see if it does it again then try the bypass like you did if it happens again.. thanks mate appreciate it
@@JSC-c You may not have noticed the recall information listed in the description, but here is the link again australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685 Bypassing the EGR cooler is the easiest way to diagnose whether it is faulty or not. You don't even loose any coolant if you clamp the hoses. If the cap is faulty, it may retain pressure in the system even when it has cooled down. Just keep in mind, it's best to fit the updated cap which is 127 kpa, even though the spare parts guy might tell you differently. Just check out the link I have sent. Thanks for keeping us informed. MiracleMAX
MiracleMAX I did read this previously, I’m guessing that those recalls had been done cause my cap has been changed to the 127kpa.. so would i be better putting a piece of pipe from the inlet to the outlet on the egr bypass so it still flows through? Or just clamp the hose shut so nothing at all flows through?
@@JSC-c You can't just clamp the hose. I just suggested that you clamp the hoses, so you don't lose coolant while you create the bypass. Just like in the video, fit a bypass hose or pipe and run it for a week or so to see the results. I hope that makes it clearer.
Hey Lyndon Francis , Just make sure you check all the other options like suggested in the description. Have you tried bypassing it? Do you have coolant loss? Are you able to pressure test the cooling system? I hope you can find the fault. Can be very frustrating! MiracleMAX
Awesome video mate, you've helped me out a lot but I still have an overheating issue on my 2015 mn. I've had my radiator cleaned out, bypassed the egr cooler, done a full carbon clean, cleaned out the intercooler, replaced thermostat and done multiple coolant flushes but still seeing temps above 100 on a good day and 118 on a bad day. Have taken it to the dealer twice but they seem like they have no idea, I did suggest water pump but "apparently" they never go. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Hey Reece, Sounds like you've had the obvious things done. Firstly, did it change AT ALL when any of the above work was done? Can you see the actual temperature in 'live data' on a scan tool? Does it smell like it is getting hot or are you just going by the temperature gauge? Has the cooling system been pressurised, checked for leaks, pressure loss? Has the radiator cap been tested or replaced? Does it have any fault codes? Is there any time that it is worse than others, like going up hills? Does it get cooler going down hills? Does the overflow bottle fill up? Does the coolant level go down in the radiator? Have you checked the links noted in the description section of this video? You should be able to check the water pump operation by this procedure - ua-cam.com/video/NB-hu4iK5-o/v-deo.html Let us know how you go - hopefully you can get it sorted.
@@MiracleMAX thanks for your reply, the temperature seemed to change a few degrees temporarily but it's back to how it was. I have an engine data scanner with live readings on 100% of the time. The system has been checked for combustion gases along with leaks and there is no coolant loss, the radiator cap had also been changed to the recommended. The fault code I keep getting when over temp is PO217. Going up hills or over 90kmph the temp goes through the roof, after 114 degrees the coolant flows into overflow and the temp does not decline unless I turn the car off and manually put the coolant back into the radiator. Also, if the temp gets up to around 110 I can pull over and hold the revs at 2000rpm with no load and it will slowly cool.
@@reecemillzey7838 Did you get a chance to look at the links in the video description? australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685 These are exactly the symptoms you are experiencing. These engines did suffer from overheating. Mitsubishi tried to remedy the problem by carrying out a few low level repairs and modifications, but in the end, they replaced the engines due to incorrect machining of the block. I have the exact case here at the moment. I got the customer to go to our local dealer (it helps when I teach their apprentices..😊) and after several tests later and in consultation with Mitsubishi Australia, they have decided to replace the motor, even tho it is not within the recall VIN range or the year (this is a 2015). It even has 190,000 Km on the clock. It didn't happen overnight, but it did happen. But now, due to shortage of parts, it looks like they might have to wait for a month for another engine. BUT, you do have to make some noise. They won't just hand over an engine. You have to keep on their backs to get results. Print out the recall information and take it to them, keep ringing and my customer even rung Mitsubishi Australia to get things moving. It might be worth pursuing this path to get a result
Hey Rick Daniel Villanueva, Thanks for your question, The EGR cooler cools exhaust gases before they go into the intake system. This helps with the reduction of NOx, a very harmful gas to the environment (it contributes to 'acid rain') that is developed by the high combustion temperatures. Apart from being illegal, disconnecting the EGR cooler will raise combustion temperatures & therefore NOx. If your vehicle has a turbo with temperature sensors or a DPF, these higher temperatures may trigger a fault code that will return, due to the parameters being met by the higher temperatures. Also, with higher internal combustion temperatures comes more stress on the engine components such as pistons, rings, valves, cylinder head etc. I hope that helps to answer your question. Cheers MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX egr is only used at low engine loads, how is it possible that EGT temperatures at low load exceeds the ones at high load? Because thats the only way a delete could cause more stress on the engine.
@@roshanchitan1997 Hey Roshan Chitan, That's a great question! It's taken me a little while to do some extra research and I also contacted some friends who are far smarter than I am. Part of the reason for the lower EGT during lower engine loads with EGR operation is that the EGR system (prior to the turbo) is designed to lower not only combustion temperature, but also pressures, which result in lower NOx emissions. Many forget to take this into consideration when doing an EGR delete. Another thing to consider is that the EGR gasses are a better heat sink than just normal intake air. It is true that the opening of the EGR will occur during lighter engine loads, but the EGR system is also used as part of boost control, particularly variable vane designs, which is during high load conditions. I guess many people think an EGR delete is the answer to all their problems, where they may be forgetting all the other functions it carries out. I hope that has answered your question. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX i understand that the software map was written while taking EGR gasses into account which when deleting upsets the system. So when deleted a proper remap is adviced? I deleted my 4d56. No cooler on the mechanical 4d56, cleaned out lots of gunk from the intake ports while the cylinder head was off(i'd say it was roughly 40% clogged).
What you decide is up to you, I guess. But as a quality registered business, I can't do that as it is illegal. Sometimes doing those things can also create other issues. Thanks for your comment.
My MQ run weird got 70k on it never overheating and then I see bubble coming out of the coolant reservoir. I changes the radiator etc... To me sound like a gasket but how come it's only 70k.. if I open the radiator cap and run it is a lot of bubble coming out and if I accelerate coolant jump out crazy I had more concentrated the temperature is around 90 95 on the highway but goes up to 115/120 on sand driving I'm getting frustrated I can't imagine a engine failure at 70000km no white smoke either...
Hey Pierre B, Here are some other videos that might help in your diagnosis. ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX The earlier models MN 4D56 suffered with overheating issues. Have you had a look at the recall information listed in the description above? MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX well today I changed my thermostat and flush all coolant. It's not really overheating it's more complicated than that on the highway if I go up hill I will get around 98 degrees and then back to 89/91. With the new thermostat on now I still have little bubble from the reservoir coolant after turning the engine off... I told Mitsubishi they don't want to hear anything about it...
@@pb8582 So were you able to try some of the suggestions in the videos I Iisted above? I gather the radiator cap has been replaced. Was the radiator a new one or second-hand? The symptom that you have is typical of a partially blocked radiator. Do you have bubbles out of your radiator when you have the cap off at idle as well as higher revs - 2000 RPM? Are the bubbles consistent or occasional? Does your engine use an EGR cooler? Has the water pump been checked? To test the flow of a water pump without removing it you can: 1. Disconnect the heater hose between the cylinder head and the heater core. 2. Block off the heater-core pipe with the blanking cap. 3. Connect the pressure gauge to the disconnected heater hose. 4. Remove the radiator cap and start the engine. 5. Bring the engine to roughly 2500 RPM and monitor the pressure gauge. A good water pump should produce about 10 to 15psi of pressure. If not, this test has provided enough information to take the next step - removal and examination of the water pump and impeller.
@@MiracleMAX brand new radiator brand new cap. I saw you video about head gasket the oil cap is dry the oil stick no sign of coolant, Rear of the car doesn't smoke white. EGR and turbo has coolant cooling system I think. I'm having a lot of issues to find the problem on this MQ engine... If live around Byron NSW I would let you have a look at it haha
@@pb8582 Probably a little far.... You need to do a TK head check to confirm a head gasket. What sort of cooling does the EGR use? Is it a heat- exchanger? Is there an oily residue in the coolant? Does the engine push excessive amounts of coolant into the overflow bottle? Is it just the bubbles you are concerned about? What is the pressure on the cap? Is the fan operating correctly? It looks like they use a viscous fan.
@@ditiromartiens7965 Do you mean to bleed the air out of the cooling system? I don't believe there is one. Just idle the engine keeping the coolant level up in the radiator & wait for the thermostat to open, run until hot & top up the level. Recheck when it has cooled down.
Hey Direwolf, It was about $700 AUD retail, genuine. I couldn't find a quality non-genuine one available. Thanks for your interest in the channel. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks mate, got a price from mitsu-bitsy with the gaskets comes to around $800. Looks like I have that issue, mind you that’s why I don’t take it there anymore, every time I asked them about it they would play dumb even when it was under warranty.
@@MiracleMAX by the way I put your post on Facebook on the Aussie 4WD Triton page you should get some more views etc. thanks again this has been invaluable
Hey Ian, I have access to several scan tools. No one tool does everything, just by doing a simple codes check after I had done a detailed one with the GScan, the Launch gave me all the details that I needed.
@@MiracleMAX exactly if only one would do we would be a good bit richer I have the Autel , Brainbee, Vcds for Volkswagen Audi and opcom for opel Lexia for Citreon and Peugeot it's enough to get me bye . Hope you are keeping well with the Covid 19 pandemic
I don’t even own a triton and never driven one. But I watched the whole video. The video is one of the best (if not the best) to explain and fix the problem. I can see you put in time and patience to make this video. Other car channels should learn from you.
Thanks Michael Lee, I appreciate your comment.
You might enjoy other videos on the channel!
Hi Max I have a 2014 triton with over heating issues. I by passed the egr cooler which proved to be the cause of the over heating. My son also has a 2013 triton with overheating issues, so after doing the egr cooler by pass it still had over heating issues. Good news is mitsubishi will warrant the defect and replace the engine under warranty. Thanks Max as we would never have known this without your video. Gratts61
That's great news Steve! At least you were able to diagnose your Triton. I've found Mitsubishi to be quite reasonable with the engine claims. It is so common, it's hard to ignore it.
Glad the video helped. Check out other Triton videos on the channel that may interest you. 😉
Hi MM, excellent diagnosis and confirmation as usual.
Hey Nigel,
Thanks for your comments. The Tritons give me heaps of practice :)
Awesome vid, you're a great teacher. I'm an aging spanner (with a triton mn) who usually does my own repairs. Sometimes I reckon it's better to send it to a bloke like you though! 😉
Cheers Neil!
I'm glad I can share these videos with people who are interested in learning. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comments
MiracleMAX 😉
Hey Max, thank you for the video, my triton Engine had similar issues of heating, It later siezed- melting piston number 1. Earlier my mechanic had replaced the radiator cap, flashed the radiator, changed the thermostat and finally the head gasket . At the end of It all we lost the engine.
Am in the process of procuring an Ex-Japan Engine, Thanks Incase it overheats I know where to start.
Joshua -
Kenya
Hey Joshua,
I hope it works out well for you 😉
Brilliant as usual, one of them cameras you can poke in holes may have helped, but you demonstrated ninja fault diagnostics. Cheers
Hey Hugh,
My thoughts exactly. So I bought a Ekon camera (cheap, nasty GoPro rip off) which I have used several times on later videos.
Thanks for watching. 😁
Say tuned for another Triton with overheating problems - this time a lot more severe!
Very good and easy to follow Well done I would like to other video on motor and cars where as good I give 10 out 10
Thank you Me Trevor.
I hope you enjoy other videos on the channel as well. 😊
MiracleMAX
Had a comment from Arthur Vergara, but it disappeared.
'Finally found video that solve overheating problem on mn triton.. thanks for this detailed vid. run up the same problem on my triton, overheating. Coolant keeps filling up the overflow bottle.. been battling this problem for quite sometime now. Please hook me up where to find genuine egr cooler.. thank you! Your videos are so detailed and tons of infomation to learned.'
Hey Arthur Vergara,
I have looked for a quality non-genuine cooler, but they don't seem to be available.
Here are the genuine part numbers I used, which were sourced from a Mitsuibishi dealer. You will have to check that these suit your vehicle - they may be different.
1582A201 EGR Cooler
1582A035 Gasket
MR161679 Gaskets
I hope that helps
MiracleMAX
Yeah good session and enjoy your style, Kiwi ?, I would not have thought of EGR cooler, I was thinking "repetitive coolant evaporation" good info mate!
Nah, Aussie, Ken Jones.
Took me a while to figure out. The Common Rail Diesels do suffer from cooler problems on occasion.
Glad you got something from the video.
Check out the rest on the channel! 😉
MiracleMAX
Very informative and well put together video. Thanks Max.
Glad you liked it! 😁
Mn Triton owner here, potentially you have saved me a lot of coin with that heads up, just ordered a tee kay test kit, hopes that it is egr, thanks for that l!
Hey Chad,
Just be aware that the TK head check is not always reliable with diesel engines.
Stay tuned for an updated video with overheating Triton 4D56 engines. 😁
Thanks, will test a few times, in a few different scenarios, wish me luck!
@@2008_suzuki_apv Hey Chad,
Just make sure you look through the recall information listed in the video description. It might be worth a trip to the dealership as these had head/engine issues that might still be covered under warranty.
australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685
Thanks for that, I believe we are up to date, this is the second block as the first was a bad batch, but they recycled everything else off the old engine where as I believe they should’ve replaced the entire engine. Are you in Brisbane or goldy by any chance??
@@2008_suzuki_apv Sorry, we are in NSW. I'd be interested in the outcome
The video is really so good that I almost wanted to have a Breakdown on my L200 (triton)
Thanks Carlos,
But I wouldn't wish that on anyone!
Thanks for your comment. 😊
Hey max just wanted to say this was the best I was really struggling with this one thanks for making these videos well done keep it up :)
Hey Johnny,
Glad the video was of use.
Are you having problems with a Triton overheating?
Thanks for your comments. 😉
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX no overheating issues I just put 4 new pistons in the motor lots of bolts to remember and forgot how to put the little bugga back on has been a few months
@@johnny-pi1hi OK, I hope the video has helped you in your reconstructive process! 😉
Very informative video. Job well done
Cheers John, Thanks 😊
❤very good n excellent solution for my problem...
This video might have some useful information as well.
ua-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/v-deo.html
Got a 2014 MN just under 200,000k. Out of warranty. Same issues. Took to Mitsubishi, and got an entire engine placed under warranty. Common issue. Before I went to Mitsubishi however, had one mechanic try and tell me my radiator was gone and wanted to charge $1000 to replace it. Another mechanic gave me the advice to see the dealership, as he had another customers with issues and they too got full engines replaced.
Well done
Lewmish Miles!
Yes, these do have problems and they do get replaced under warranty. But unless you ask, you won't know. I'm sure you are glad that you got a second opinion! 😊
MIracleMAX
I have a 2011 Triton and it's been giving me the similar overheating problems. Took it to my mechanic he's run all sorts of tests on the cooling system, except the EGR one. He was suggesting that it could be the cylinder head gasket but now that I've seen this, I'll ask him to check the EGR before we escalate things to the cylinder head.
Hey Simoko James Phiri
,
Welcome to the channel. Here are a few videos that although they are on a different vehicle, the principles are the same.
ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html
I hope you are able to get the fault sorted 😊
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks I'll have a look at them too
Well done diagnosing the fault, however replacing the ERG cooler was a waste of money! I would have left the bypass hose connected and install an EGR delete cable and put a blocking plate on the cooler to stop the exhaust gasses going through. This also has the benefit of stopping that disgusting exhaust from going into the intake and destroying the motor......
Hey Fox Md,
Thanks for your comments.
While your suggestions may be what is considered the ideal solution, as a technician and business owner, I can not do or recommend these sort of repairs as they are illegal due to emission standards.
The EGR system is used to reduce NOx gasses being released into the atmosphere which helps create smog and acid rain that damages our environment.
I appreciate your thoughts.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Yes you are 100% correct, and very eloquently put, as a business owner who is posting on youtube you should be following the law. I said it's something I would do but I'm not a mechanic so I would never tell you what you should do, however I can tell you a thing or two about the environment!
Right now there are 45 erupting volcano's globally, these volcano's will pump out more C02, NOx gasses and create more smog and acid rain in one hour than man can create in a year. I know the Government will tell you it us and that's why we need to have another tax, but giving the government more money won't change the environment. Anyway EV's will be here in the next two to five years which means no more ICE vehicles to pollute, service or repair.
@@foxmd9410 Thanks for your comments Fox Md. 👍
@@MiracleMAX What no love heart ;)
Hi Max. Have sent you an email in regard to this very frustrating problem with my 2013 MN with 214,000ks on the clock.
I'll have a look at my emails when I get a chance 👍
Watching from Philippines thanks
You are welcome Marvin. I hope you found the video helpful.
Thank you sir! I've learned a lot.
Hey Ömer Alp
I'm glad I could help! 😊
I hope you enjoy the other videos on the channel
MiracleMAX
Hey mate I’m a bit stuck at the moment and was hoping you could tell me how you did the egr bypass with the hose as I think I have the same issue and want to test it. Do you just use a 16 mm hose with a joiner or something and hose clamps? Thanks
Yes Josh, that is correct. You simply put in a hose to extend it past the cooler. If you are having overheating issues, it might be worth watching this video I made.
ua-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/v-deo.html
Hey Max. I have a 2013 triton with 4D56 engine. I had the overheating issue back in January this year. The mechanic cleaned the radiator and filled it with coolant. It worked fine until today it started overheating again while I was doing a long steep mountainside road. Do you think if I change the radiator cap and fit it with a 127 kpa one will remedy the issue?
Well I guess it might be worth looking at this video next.
ua-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/v-deo.html
excellent helpful video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi max. I have a suspected EGR cooler issue at the moment.
Risky asking for advice on the internet I know 😅 But I'm at a loss.. I have a black sludgy substance building up on the radiator cap...It was brand new as of Friday last week so it's been on for 8 days.. The old one looked the same (I wish I could post pictures here so you could see how excessive it is)
It's not getting hot, It's not using coolant and there is no milkshake machine happening in the sump.
It's also a 2.5lt MN Triton, Auto.
The turbo is a bit tired (soon to be replaced).. I replaced the head gasket and decked the head about 12 months ago.. I didn't deck the block but I did a bit of a wild job with a straight edge and some fine sand paper..
I have had this this to Fraser Island twice and hit some pretty rough tracks since doing the head gasket and had no issues... This has only appeared in the last 3 months or so.
This one has me stumped. I hope it's not a cracked block/sleeve or something stupid like that.
I might bypass the EGR cooler in the short term and see if that has any effect.. I am open to suggestions.
You can always contact me and send photos via Email at miraclemax3@hotmail.com
I think bypassing the EGR cooler is the cheapest and easiest diagnostic test to do to start with.
Does this have an automatic or manual transmission?
I'll email you @@MiracleMAX Thanks mate.
Hello, do you by chance have the engine manual available or know where to get one? My local mitsubishi dealer doesn't supply no more ND be searching the internet for one, doing thermostat replacement
This might be of help.
www.allcarmanuals.com/factory-service-manual-104-Mitsubishi-Triton-L200-KA-KB.html
Hi MAX, thanks your nice and detailed video.. Just wondering, I’d blocked egr inlet and outlet gases.. If i make it permanent bypass coolant on that egr cooler, is it causes any problem? And is it can appear egr error code? Thank you
My plan is I want to bypass that coolant hose, take a car run for 1 day(at least 200km) and look for the result.. Is quite expensive to purchase radiator pressure test kit.. If this method is too risky, unfortunately i need to buy that kit.. I’m appreciate any of your suggestions MAX.. Tq again
Hey Arif Shariff,
I suggest you check out the comments I have made to Rick Daniel Villanueva as well as roshan chitan below.
This engine is designed to run with an EGR valve and most likely will bring on a check engine light if a delete is carried out.
I provide more detail in the comments below.
Thanks for your comment.
MiracleMAX
Rod out the radiator or replace? Should watch to the end oops, are there any consequences to leaving egr cooler bypassed?
Some choose to do an EGR delete, but it is illegal. There are huge fines for both the owner of the vehicle and the workshop that carries out the work. However, heaps of people do it.
I wouldn't do it as the vehicle is designed to run with the system. Fault codes will eventually be triggered if you leave the cooler bypassed.
@@MiracleMAX many people would feel duped into thinking they have purchased a diesel for longevity egr coolers are such weak points and it seems when a coolant loss is detected it’s too late even for the mechanically savvy. I have an older 1.9tdi in Skoda Octavia it has proven longevity being non common rail and no exhaust emissions dpf or ad blue. Just to get most out of it to 500k catch can and temporarily bypass cooler (as it’s easily reversible) go from there. Great content and seem to scratch your head same as any other logical bloke
@@wyatthurts1729 Thanks for your comment. Too many people are convinced that buying a CRD is the answer. Yes if you run long distances. Not for your typical 'soccer mum' .
The DPF never gets a chance to heat up properly for regeneration, inlet systems clog with carbon & injectors are expensive to replace. I personally would only buy a petrol, non turbo vehicle. But that's me and for my situation.
Yes you are right, I do a lot of head scratching - that's why I have been going bald for years! 🤣
I am using triton vgt 2.5 2013. Its overheat when climbing hill. The triton using single layer radiator. I have change it to double layer radiator and change the thermostat. The problem finally solved.
Hey Serniaty Kamarudin,
I hope that is the answer. Let us know if you have any troubles in the future.
Thanks for your comment😉
Thank you, you are a genius person
Not quite, but thanks anyway 👍
I don't understand the relationship between Turbo waste gate and the coolant leak / heating problem.
Can you explain please?
Hey Dan.U,
That's a great question.
If we open the wastegate or disconnect the VGT actuator, the turbo loses a lot of it's boost, therefore there will be less pressure in the EGR system.
If the bubbles change when this is done, reconnect it and the amount of bubbles increase, this could mean a leak in the EGR cooler.
With less pressure in the EGR system, the pressure difference between the exhaust system and the cooling system will make the leak more obvious.
I gave a link to a video in the description that explains it as well.
ua-cam.com/video/bC52wdRcr-A/v-deo.html
Thanks for your comment.
MiracleMAX
FYI: Pressure and Flow are two different things. They are related but different.
Thanks Stewart, that is correct! 😊
Great video. My mn triton overheated last week. Can you help with sourcing a 127kpa radiator cap? Thanks mate
Hey AaronS,
You should be able to get one from your local parts supplier (AutoOne, Super Cheap, Repco, Autobarn, etc.) or genuine.
@@MiracleMAX mate are you based in NSW?
@@aarons1341 yes
@@MiracleMAX would you be able to take a look and try and figure out what the problem could be?
@@aarons1341 You can contact me via Email at miraclemax3@hotmail.com
Hi mate can you tell me where you got the egr cooler I'm in need one for my mn 2015 mitsubishi triton
I ended up getting genuine as it was cheaper than aftermarket.
@@MiracleMAX and can you please tell me if the bottom radiator hose should be as hot as the top radiator hose thanks
@@mebob5842 Since the heat should be removed by radiation to the ambient outside temperature, the bottom hose should be colder than the top. The cooler coolant will enter back into the water jackets around the cylinders to once again transfer heat via conduction (through solids) as well as convection (though liquid or gas). It's a continuous cycle of heat transfer. So, the bottom hose should be cooler than the top.
Hey mate love the video! Very informative! I have an MN triton 2015, pulled the radiator out had it cleaned, put new thermostat and hoses on and fill with water for now, heater works great but now my scan tool tells me that my coolant temp sits at 94-95 degrees at 100km. I've bled the system, sat funnel in full of water, and there's no air bubbles coming threw, is this temp too high? any suggestions or ideas? Thankyou!
Hey Tyler,
Can I ask why you did all those repairs to start with? Was it just maintenance? What did the scan tool say the temp was before the repairs? What pressure is written on the cap - 127 degrees?
@@MiracleMAX
Went to the high country over the long weekend, it got hot on me and boiled when doing one of the tracks, on the way home for the 3 hour drive it sat on 89 degrees. I radiator turned it was 65% blocked on the outside. It's a 127kpa cap. But I think I've got bigger problems now as it has a heap of little bubbles in radiator and it's like it almost foams up.
@@tylerdunn8020 That doesn't sound healthy. I am just dealing with an overheating 4D56 at the moment and have it in at the dealership hoping for warranty. Have a look at this link dealing with the overheating issues.
australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685
How many kilometres and what year is it?
@@MiracleMAX it's 3rd month 2015. Supposedly mine is after the ones that had the block issue. It's got 119000
@@tylerdunn8020 The one I have at the dealership for a possible warranty claim is 2015 with 190,000Km. It's worth taking it to the dealership to see if you can get a claim. They will ask you to pay for their assessment and then if the warranty is valid, they will reimburse you for the testing.
Love watching your triton vids as I have the exact same vehicle. What coolant is recommended for this vehicle. Red/green/blue. I want to flush my coolant but all very confusing.
Hey Warren10241,
Thanks for that!
The best way to find out what fluids are required for your vehicle is to visit a site with 'datateck' after the name. For example, here is the Castrol site:
www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/
Just fill in the details and it will provide all the information you need. If you use a different brand, simply put that brand name in front of datateck.
Stay tuned for more Triton videos shortly.....
MiracleMAX
hi hope you can advise me i have 2009 l200 and mine overheats but not all the time its on and off , ive checked the usual headgasket tell tail signs and nothing , mine works ok perfect for say 25 miles then after this the temp goes up into red then after few mins randomly comes back too normal im thinking thermostat does that sound right
Hey SLUGSLINGER,
Firstly you need to determine if your gauge is working correctly. How many kilometres has the vehicle done? Is it petrol or diesel? Is the coolant level correct and holding pressure? Certainly, a thermostat could cause the symptoms you are talking about, especially if it returns to normal after a period of time. There are also other faults that could cause this as well. Here are some tests you could try shown in these videos.
ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
ua-cam.com/video/3Hsa5v9uQgs/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
Let us know if you find the fault. 😊
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX 90000miles , diesel , ive changed the thermostat today so will see how that does , is it normal for them too open really slow when dropped into boiling water as my old one is very slow
@@theyorkshirelad. Thanks for sharing your repair. A thermostat is rated to open at a specific temperature and they will not open until that temp is reached. They use a wax pellet in the bottom, which expands when heated, opening the thermostat. They don't slam open, so it might appear to open slowly.
If they open too early, you will end up with a cold running engine, no heaters and poor fuel economy, if it opens too late, the engine will overheat.
I have a 2011 challenger, same engine. These run hot, and a Mitsubishi recall fix was a 127 Kpa rad cap. I think the front positioned inter cooler may contribute to the overheating issue. I.e. 2 extra heat sources in front of the radiator and more resistance to air flow through them. The previous tritons had the inter cooler mounted above the engine, perhaps a better arrangement.
Thanks for those insights Phillip 😊
Great video!
What temperature range should these engines run at?
Hey Ricky Bobby,
That is a broad question. The thermostats are generally 82', but due to a lot of overheating issues with the 4D56, they recommended changing the cap to a 127kpa & altering the coolant mix to 50%, rather than 30%.
forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2327089
That being said, I have had the temperature reading on the scan tool up to 96' in the workshop.
I have also listed the recall information in the description above.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thankyou very much for the quick and detailed reply. Really appreciate it.
I have a late 2014 triton that is overheating on load (eg up hill). I have had all cooling system stuff replaced and still doing it. Are you in Brisbane or do you know somebody in Brisbane that can diagnose it?
Is this Kevin that I had a chat with? I recommend Steve Sorensen Mechanical, Browns Plains. I'm sure they will be able to help you out. 👍😉
@MiracleMAX yes it is, thanks for tour help
Your
@@kevinhowie3332 Let us know what you find. 👍
Awesome video keen for more!
I have a 2014 MN had Overheating issues tool to Mitsubishi and had engine replaced due to warranty etc. With new engine- driving on beach, towing or even today going up steep hill on the road the temp began to climb.
I pull over and she goes back to operating temp till she's underload again then repeat, driving normally at highway speeds or just casually around town not an issue does not overheat!
Been chasing my tale for months trying to work out issues
Suspect EGE, FAN or maybe RADIATOR
Help?
Hey Regan Lukaszewicz,
Was the engine replaced due to overheating or some other reason? Was the radiator flow tested at the time and backflushed? Have you considered what was shown in the video - the EGR cooler? Is it losing coolant or just overheating? Was the thermostat replaced like shown in the video?
What coolant has been used and what ratio has been added? Did you see the recall information listed in the description?
I hope some of these questions can help you find the fault.
MiracleMAX
I also had the same problem with the same vehicle 4D56. After running test after test at the dealership ( god damn never go there again ) they finally took the head off to find the Whole engine was pitted. Replaced the long motor has been running good except engine light repeatedly on with low turbo code throwing up but only when towing. 140k on new engine & started to get warm pulling trailer up the mountain. Have just put a high flow thermostat in & see how that goes. Next if not solved replace radiator hoses ( nearly due ) & flush
Sell it
What would be the next thing to look at if the egr valve was not faulty?
Hey Ben,
Are you referring to the engine overheating as in the video?
@@MiracleMAX this is a great video of exactly what I'm dealing with atm. We have literally done everything you have done and our tests with the blue dye always return blue-green not urine yellow. My thoughts were to flush hoses and radiator next before deciding working towards a new head gasket. Have you ever seen green from your tests at all?
@@benbuckler5375 What happened when you bypassed the EGR cooler? Has your radiator been checked for blockages? Has the thermostat been tested or replaced? Is your coolant at 50% ratio? How many kilometres has the vehicle done?
You can end up with a blue/green tinge in the TK fluid, especially if it has been used before on other vehicles & then returned to the bottle. When there is hydrocarbons in the cooling system, the fluid will turn a definite yellow.
Do you have pressure loss in the cooling system when hot? Is there coolant loss? Make sure that you put your pressure tester a little higher than the cap rating to stress out the system.
Is the viscous fan working correctly? Has the water pump ever been replaced?
So is the engine actually overheating or has it just set a code? By how much? Does it do it all the time or just when under load? What temperature is the scan tool telling you the engine is?
Hopefully the answers to these questions might point you to a successful diagnosis.
Here is another few links that might help as well.
ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
Not exactly related to the video, but I have a question you might be able to answer. Is the turbo on the 4d56 (also) water-cooled? There is plumbing that circulates water through the turbo, but I heard that this was designed to heat the engine faster in winter, not to cool the turbo. I ask this because I live in a very hot country and I’m seriously considering isolating the turbo to help with cooling. Thanks in advance.
Hey Shlomo Goldbergerstein
,
Welcome to the channel!
The cooling hoses that you see are to keep the turbo cool. One of the main killers of turbos is poor lubrication followed by overheating. You might be interested in this article dealing on the subject.
www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/water-cooling-for-your-turbo/
Also, here is where I changed a turbo on a 4D56 in another video
ua-cam.com/video/KiCw5M7OdrE/v-deo.html
I hope that answers your question.
Cheers
MiracleMAX 😉
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the answer! In case you or any of your viewers are interested, I solved the problem by performing the following:
1. Removed the hot air radiator (that goes to the cab), and isolated the water pipes that run there, therefore increasing the volume of water that goes to the actual radiator;
2. Isolated a little tube that circled water straight from the engine back to it, without passing through the radiator. No idea why this even exists.
Of course that in some colder climates you can’t afford no heating, but it isn’t a problem in Brazil. My next step will be installing a bigger radiator with an electric fan, and that will do it for good, even in our 45oC summers, or so I hope. Also blocked the EGR valve because, well, why not? My 4d56 has neither a filter nor a radiator connected to it, and the exhaust gasses go back in the engine hot and unfiltered.
Once again, thanks for the help. Cheers!!!
@@anonops1980 Glad you were able to find the solution you were looking for.
Appreciate sharing with us! 😊
@@MiracleMAX hie mate.I have 4d56 triton.Mine raises temeprature gage past half especially on a hot day doing 120km/hr or so but in the morning it drops js above the second line.Also in the morning or first attempt it emmits very white smoke that clears in a minute or so.Also it takes time to start it after running it.It starts faster from cold start than when hot.I took off the thermosta and stil using 0.9 bar radiator cap.What might be the problem?
@@lameck360 Does the coolant level go down? Is the overflow bottle overfull?
If this is the case & the modifications are done as suggested in the video description, I suggest you take it to the dealer to diagnose. They may find that it is a blown head gasket due to poor machining of the block during manufacture. If that is the case you should be able to get warranty, regardless of the kilometres it has travelled.
I have just had the same issue on my 2013-14 triton, have noticed recently that the heater works then I’ll stop turn it of then say 20-30min later start up and drive again and the heater takes ages to get hot again.. then all of a sudden today drove about 200-250 Ks got to my destination stopped for maybe half an hour or so then had to go down the road and the car felt like it lost power when taking off (maybe limp mode?) then seen the engine light was on and noticed the temperature was at about 3/4 on the gauge, I pulled over for a bit and seen the coolant had been spitting out of the overflow bottle, I then drove back home with the temp at normal half on the gauge but engine light was still on.. let it cool and had to top it up with close to 2 litres of water... The engine light disappeared and seem to run like nothing happened.. I then checked with a mates Gscan2 tool and it come up with P0217 code but had complete at the end of it? Do I have the same issue as what this car had or could it be something different? I would be so grateful if you could get back to me! Thanks
Hey Josh,
Thanks for your comment.
P0217 code is Engine Over Temperature
. That could mean a range of issues. In basic terms, it means that the engine has overheated.
At this point it is important to start with the basics. The code is telling you that the engine overheated.
Ask yourself - why?
There was coolant loss - why?
Any why was the coolant being forced out of the overflow bottle?
How many kilometres has the engine done?
So, as I said, start with the basics. Carry out a coolant pressure test. Leave it on for quite some time and see if there is some significant pressure drop. Have a REALLY good look for an external coolant leak. Use a light & use a mirror. Check inside the cabin where the heater core is. Does the carpet smell? Does the windscreen fog up. Is the carpet wet? Have the coolant hoses ever been replaced?
Is the engine starting up on 3 cylinders and then eventually running on 4?
Take note of the recall I have listed in the description above.
Are there any bubbles in the radiator?
Have you checked for a blown head gasket?
ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html
Have you removed and tested the thermostat?
Is the radiator cap holding pressure?
Is the engine fan operating correctly?
What is the condition of the coolant?
Have you tried bypassing the EGR cooler?
Of course, follow any suggestions made in the video above.
Here is a link that may be of use to you.
www.obd-codes.com/p0217
I hope some of these suggestions might help you diagnose the fault.
MiracleMAX
MiracleMAX thanks for the reply, It hasn’t done it again since, but I noticed there is still pressure built up in the radiator when I haven’t driven it all day and I take the radiator cap of to check the coolant.. in your experience is that normal? I’m gonna start with a new cap and new thermostat and see if it does it again then try the bypass like you did if it happens again.. thanks mate appreciate it
@@JSC-c You may not have noticed the recall information listed in the description, but here is the link again australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685
Bypassing the EGR cooler is the easiest way to diagnose whether it is faulty or not. You don't even loose any coolant if you clamp the hoses.
If the cap is faulty, it may retain pressure in the system even when it has cooled down. Just keep in mind, it's best to fit the updated cap which is 127 kpa, even though the spare parts guy might tell you differently. Just check out the link I have sent.
Thanks for keeping us informed.
MiracleMAX
MiracleMAX I did read this previously, I’m guessing that those recalls had been done cause my cap has been changed to the 127kpa.. so would i be better putting a piece of pipe from the inlet to the outlet on the egr bypass so it still flows through? Or just clamp the hose shut so nothing at all flows through?
@@JSC-c You can't just clamp the hose. I just suggested that you clamp the hoses, so you don't lose coolant while you create the bypass. Just like in the video, fit a bypass hose or pipe and run it for a week or so to see the results.
I hope that makes it clearer.
good diagnosis and did you get a new scan tool ?
Hey Ian, I now have access to a GScan 3. Lots of new features & a new toy to play with! 😉
This egr cooler is driving me up the walls - literally. Seems my problem is the exact situation. Air bubbles getting into my cooling. Grrrrrr!
Hey Lyndon Francis
,
Just make sure you check all the other options like suggested in the description. Have you tried bypassing it? Do you have coolant loss? Are you able to pressure test the cooling system?
I hope you can find the fault.
Can be very frustrating!
MiracleMAX
Awesome video mate, you've helped me out a lot but I still have an overheating issue on my 2015 mn. I've had my radiator cleaned out, bypassed the egr cooler, done a full carbon clean, cleaned out the intercooler, replaced thermostat and done multiple coolant flushes but still seeing temps above 100 on a good day and 118 on a bad day. Have taken it to the dealer twice but they seem like they have no idea, I did suggest water pump but "apparently" they never go. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Hey Reece,
Sounds like you've had the obvious things done. Firstly, did it change AT ALL when any of the above work was done? Can you see the actual temperature in 'live data' on a scan tool? Does it smell like it is getting hot or are you just going by the temperature gauge?
Has the cooling system been pressurised, checked for leaks, pressure loss? Has the radiator cap been tested or replaced?
Does it have any fault codes?
Is there any time that it is worse than others, like going up hills? Does it get cooler going down hills? Does the overflow bottle fill up? Does the coolant level go down in the radiator?
Have you checked the links noted in the description section of this video?
You should be able to check the water pump operation by this procedure - ua-cam.com/video/NB-hu4iK5-o/v-deo.html
Let us know how you go - hopefully you can get it sorted.
@@MiracleMAX thanks for your reply, the temperature seemed to change a few degrees temporarily but it's back to how it was. I have an engine data scanner with live readings on 100% of the time. The system has been checked for combustion gases along with leaks and there is no coolant loss, the radiator cap had also been changed to the recommended. The fault code I keep getting when over temp is PO217. Going up hills or over 90kmph the temp goes through the roof, after 114 degrees the coolant flows into overflow and the temp does not decline unless I turn the car off and manually put the coolant back into the radiator. Also, if the temp gets up to around 110 I can pull over and hold the revs at 2000rpm with no load and it will slowly cool.
@@reecemillzey7838 Did you get a chance to look at the links in the video description?
australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Mitsubishi&model=Triton&gen=685
These are exactly the symptoms you are experiencing.
These engines did suffer from overheating. Mitsubishi tried to remedy the problem by carrying out a few low level repairs and modifications, but in the end, they replaced the engines due to incorrect machining of the block.
I have the exact case here at the moment. I got the customer to go to our local dealer (it helps when I teach their apprentices..😊) and after several tests later and in consultation with Mitsubishi Australia, they have decided to replace the motor, even tho it is not within the recall VIN range or the year (this is a 2015). It even has 190,000 Km on the clock.
It didn't happen overnight, but it did happen. But now, due to shortage of parts, it looks like they might have to wait for a month for another engine. BUT, you do have to make some noise. They won't just hand over an engine. You have to keep on their backs to get results. Print out the recall information and take it to them, keep ringing and my customer even rung Mitsubishi Australia to get things moving. It might be worth pursuing this path to get a result
Is it okay to bypass the egr cooler or it does have a long term effect on the engine itself?
Hey Rick Daniel Villanueva,
Thanks for your question,
The EGR cooler cools exhaust gases before they go into the intake system. This helps with the reduction of NOx, a very harmful gas to the environment (it contributes to 'acid rain') that is developed by the high combustion temperatures.
Apart from being illegal, disconnecting the EGR cooler will raise
combustion temperatures & therefore NOx. If your vehicle has a turbo with temperature sensors or a DPF, these higher temperatures may trigger a fault code that will return, due to the parameters being met by the higher temperatures. Also, with higher internal combustion temperatures comes more stress on the engine components such as pistons, rings, valves, cylinder head etc.
I hope that helps to answer your question.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX egr is only used at low engine loads, how is it possible that EGT temperatures at low load exceeds the ones at high load? Because thats the only way a delete could cause more stress on the engine.
@@roshanchitan1997 Hey Roshan Chitan,
That's a great question!
It's taken me a little while to do some extra research and I also contacted some friends who are far smarter than I am.
Part of the reason for the lower EGT during lower engine loads with EGR operation is that the EGR system (prior to the turbo) is designed to lower not only combustion temperature, but also pressures, which result in lower NOx emissions. Many forget to take this into consideration when doing an EGR delete.
Another thing to consider is that the EGR gasses are a better heat sink than just normal intake air.
It is true that the opening of the EGR will occur during lighter engine loads, but the EGR system is also used as part of boost control, particularly variable vane designs, which is during high load conditions.
I guess many people think an EGR delete is the answer to all their problems, where they may be forgetting all the other functions it carries out.
I hope that has answered your question.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX i understand that the software map was written while taking EGR gasses into account which when deleting upsets the system. So when deleted a proper remap is adviced?
I deleted my 4d56. No cooler on the mechanical 4d56, cleaned out lots of gunk from the intake ports while the cylinder head was off(i'd say it was roughly 40% clogged).
@@roshanchitan1997 Sorry, It is illegal to do EGR deletes in our country and therefore I can't provide you with any advice on doing a delete.
70$ egr cooler delete kit would be the go, also egr delete
What you decide is up to you, I guess. But as a quality registered business, I can't do that as it is illegal. Sometimes doing those things can also create other issues.
Thanks for your comment.
Do you have a workshop
New South Wales
My MQ run weird got 70k on it never overheating and then I see bubble coming out of the coolant reservoir. I changes the radiator etc... To me sound like a gasket but how come it's only 70k.. if I open the radiator cap and run it is a lot of bubble coming out and if I accelerate coolant jump out crazy I had more concentrated the temperature is around 90 95 on the highway but goes up to 115/120 on sand driving I'm getting frustrated I can't imagine a engine failure at 70000km no white smoke either...
Hey Pierre B,
Here are some other videos that might help in your diagnosis.
ua-cam.com/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
ua-cam.com/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
The earlier models MN 4D56 suffered with overheating issues.
Have you had a look at the recall information listed in the description above?
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX well today I changed my thermostat and flush all coolant.
It's not really overheating it's more complicated than that on the highway if I go up hill I will get around 98 degrees and then back to 89/91.
With the new thermostat on now I still have little bubble from the reservoir coolant after turning the engine off...
I told Mitsubishi they don't want to hear anything about it...
@@pb8582 So were you able to try some of the suggestions in the videos I Iisted above?
I gather the radiator cap has been replaced.
Was the radiator a new one or second-hand? The symptom that you have is typical of a partially blocked radiator.
Do you have bubbles out of your radiator when you have the cap off at idle as well as higher revs - 2000 RPM? Are the bubbles consistent or occasional?
Does your engine use an EGR cooler?
Has the water pump been checked?
To test the flow of a water pump without removing it you can:
1. Disconnect the heater
hose between the cylinder head and the heater core.
2. Block off the heater-core
pipe with the blanking cap.
3. Connect the pressure
gauge to the disconnected heater hose.
4. Remove the radiator cap
and start the engine.
5. Bring the engine to
roughly 2500 RPM and monitor the pressure gauge.
A good water pump should
produce about 10 to 15psi of pressure. If not, this test has provided enough information to take the next step - removal and examination of the water pump and impeller.
@@MiracleMAX brand new radiator brand new cap.
I saw you video about head gasket the oil cap is dry the oil stick no sign of coolant,
Rear of the car doesn't smoke white.
EGR and turbo has coolant cooling system I think.
I'm having a lot of issues to find the problem on this MQ engine...
If live around Byron NSW I would let you have a look at it haha
@@pb8582 Probably a little far....
You need to do a TK head check to confirm a head gasket.
What sort of cooling does the EGR use? Is it a heat- exchanger?
Is there an oily residue in the coolant?
Does the engine push excessive amounts of coolant into the overflow bottle?
Is it just the bubbles you are concerned about?
What is the pressure on the cap?
Is the fan operating correctly? It looks like they use a viscous fan.
i have a same problem and wrenches are not my friends, where can I find you?
I'm in NSW
@@MiracleMAX Where is that?
@@ditiromartiens7965 Australia
@@MiracleMAX Ok, where do i find bleeder valve on 2014 triton?
@@ditiromartiens7965 Do you mean to bleed the air out of the cooling system? I don't believe there is one. Just idle the engine keeping the coolant level up in the radiator & wait for the thermostat to open, run until hot & top up the level. Recheck when it has cooled down.
Where abouts are you located
Our workshop is in NSW
Hello, problème température fuel senssor mitsubishi l200 did 2007 analyse thenks
What fault codes do you have? What engine is in the vehicle?
@@MiracleMAX p0183
@@MiracleMAX hard start
@@IssameZerfa What engine is in this vehicle? 2.5? 3.2? 2.4? 3.5? Petrol or diesel?
@@MiracleMAX 2,5 136 hp
Roughly how much is that cooler?
Hey Direwolf,
It was about $700 AUD retail, genuine. I couldn't find a quality non-genuine one available.
Thanks for your interest in the channel.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks mate, got a price from mitsu-bitsy with the gaskets comes to around $800. Looks like I have that issue, mind you that’s why I don’t take it there anymore, every time I asked them about it they would play dumb even when it was under warranty.
@@MiracleMAX by the way I put your post on Facebook on the Aussie 4WD Triton page you should get some more views etc. thanks again this has been invaluable
@@direwolf4849 I hope that you can isolate the fault & get the repair done.
Cheers!
@@direwolf4849 Great, thanks!
I'm glad that it has been of some use. 😉
This is the typical 4D56 pitted engine block fault. Go to Mitsubishi and get a replacement engine.
Not in this particular case, but it was in the case of the video listed below.
ua-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/v-deo.html
the launch i was on about sorry
Hey Ian, I have access to several scan tools. No one tool does everything, just by doing a simple codes check after I had done a detailed one with the GScan, the Launch gave me all the details that I needed.
@@MiracleMAX exactly if only one would do we would be a good bit richer I have the Autel , Brainbee, Vcds for Volkswagen Audi and opcom for opel Lexia for Citreon and Peugeot it's enough to get me bye . Hope you are keeping well with the Covid 19 pandemic
@@iankelly2110 Cheers Mate,
I hope you & your family keep safe
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻☺️☺️☺️☺️🌹🌹🌹🌹