Wouldn't grinding all the teeth to the opposite angle of the blade tilt (so the teeth heads are all parallel to the surface of the saw table) provide a smoother finish? Rather than creating small sharp cuts which will leave grooves on the machined surface, you would have a larger cutting surface which would reduce the grooves. It might cause additional heat due to the larger contact area of the teeth though. I'm not sure if that would be sufficient to create burns and it would probably be specific to the type of wood (similar to cherry burning easier than red oak).
I get your frugality, but why not just buy a triple chip and be done with it. The way you reground those teeth your likely to only have one tooth cutting!
Because it was a heck of a lot quicker to grind the banged up blade than go find a fancy blade like that. Plus, the triple chip blade may still end up cutting with the corners. Throwing money at a problem, in many cases, also costs more in time than a quick hack.
Ein ganz normales Flachzahn-Sägeblatt wäre für sowas besser geeignet. Als Schreiner nimmt man dafür eine Kehlscheibe (alles andere wäre im professionellen Bereich auch verboten).
Your idea to use a radius shaped tooth is spot on to improve the cove cutting process on a Table Saw. I believe this can further be improved if instead of a half round tooth profile a quarter radius profile is used. Since the highest portion of the tooth profile is in the middle of a half round tooth the rest of the tooth doesn’t come into contact with the work piece. With a quarter round tooth profile the last half of the tooth being a flat area will be in contact with the work surface thus increasing actual tooth cutting efficiency. Mr. Wandel your videos seem to be the bench mark of wood working videos. Your out of the box thinking has sparked many of others to come up with new ideas in wood working and inspired many others to share their ideas, If I was wearing a hat I would tip it.
It's probably worth mentioning that tilting the blade changes the shape of the cove cut. Which probably only matters if you are trying to get a specific shape to your cove :)
You´re doing very well. It´s nice that you to let the spectators whitness your own process of experiencing and finding the best solution to a specific problem. People who are not afraid to say "I made a mistake." are more credible and more likely to be true geniuses. All the best.
Saw my woodworking instructor make a cove like this once years ago, and I've been looking for avideo on how it's done. Thanks so much! really interesting about the cutter teeth.
Good stuff Matthias. After seeing izzys attempt at this I decided to give it a try and I scrapped the idea cause it came out so rough. Like you said though, at first glance it looks great. Nice that you cleaned up the process.
That looks like a great improvement with your blade regrind job. add just a few minutes using a curved scraper card it would be glass smooth. I would be happy with that last experiment. Always a good second use for old carbide blades. Nice job and thanks for sharing.
@@VideoNOLA Dado blades are forbidden in Italy for security reasons ( although I can't understand why, taking appropriate measures .... kickback force, maybe? How many accidents do You have in Usa because of dado blades ? )
Hundreds of comments & I'm not reading them however I would try a 60 tooth for a finer cut instead of a 24 tooth but great idea as usual. Your parents must have had a blast with you!
Awesome, Was having a conversation with a colleague about the cove on table saw technique just yesterday.I need to get some blades for my smaller saw, Panel saws a just too bulky to do this on,
I am just a beginner, I don't own a real table saw, I don't plan on cutting coves, but the information that dremel has a diamond disc that can be used for sharpening blades is very helpful. Thanks!
I am always impressed by your cleverness, and I hope your experiments work out. I would like to point out however that the traditional method would be to build a molding plane and use that. Perhaps you can try that and see if that works any better. :-)
I recently made a few boxes with this method of cutting the cove. I built another box without the cove cut in it. I was wondering what your thoughts were on attempting to cut the cove into the already assembled box. I would hate to try it and ruin the box
I made enough 7" wide victorian cove this way, using a regular saw blade, to do my whole house. A blade with big, long carbide teeth (the old Shop Smith blades really work well) works best. I never rounded off the teeth and had to do a lot of sanding but it still worked fine. I used a router to cut a profile on one side. With that kind and size of molding costing north of five bucks a foot, I saved enough to pay for a very nice table saw.
Matthias, did you consider using a blade or blades from a dado set? The teeth are wider and flat so you might be able to make a better rounded tooth. If you used both of the outboard blades from a dado set you could make your wider rounded profile.
Hi Matthias, I saw Your cove cutting calculator. Could You please explain why I need the "steps" ? I can't understand why I could not just fix the fence to the final dimension of the cove needed, and then made single passes raising the blade of say, 2 mm each time. Thank You ! ( everything always informative, anyway, go on with these good ideas )
Mathias, I´ve been worried all the time about a missing tooth on a blade, can you tell me if yours came off flying white cutting or how did it happen ? Thank you
So my question is, does it come out smoother if on the last pass you flip it around and run it through the other way, or does it just make diamond shapes instead of stripes?
I have an idea, though I have not tried it yet. It may have even been mentioned, but I haven't seen it. What if you used a rip blade instead. Since the cut angle is already small you wouldn't have to file down the teeth. Unfortunately because of this it cause breakout/splintering on the edges of the grooves. Like I said I haven't tried it yet but I plan to since I want to use this idea for a near future project.
meu amigo! eu já tentei fazer e não consegui, gostaria de saber qual o Macete correto, se é tamanho do disco, ou se é apenas o grau mesmo? pois tentei de Farias formas e não deu certo.
wouldn't the groove pattern in the cut be caused by the speed your passing it over the blade? Once you're getting smooth cuts with little break out surely you can just give it a really slow pass
I was thinking about this the other day-- what if you not only stacked 2 blades, but a hardboard disc with a slightly oversize sheet of sandpaper on it cut in little flaps-- it would cut the cove and sand it as it went by...
the last coves I ran using a table saw molding cutter-head with 1 inch flute cutters which gives a one pass cut on shallow coves (longer cutting edge) and left a easy too sand finish. your sanding off points not sanding out scratches
I actually cut coves whilst in education with a so called "Wanknutsäge" which is essentially a Sawblade with the possibility to adjust the width of the cut and isn't mounted at exactly 90°. We've cut really nice coves in wood. In europe however is it banned for using because officials claimed that it is too dangerous to work with...
is it possible to take the belly out of a cheap table saw table?IThe table measures 20"x27" and is made out of Aluminum.I know it's cheap but it's all i got.
A flat bottom blade may work also (lots of ppl have those to make non-through cuts) unless you want to get real fancy and angle the blade to machine parabolic coves.
What about the outer blades of a dado stack put in the opposite way? That would make one big triangle, wouldn't it? Normally the outer blades have all their points going to the outside, this would just make their points go to the inside.
That was going to be my suggestion. For those who don't know, Matthias is using an ATB (Alternating Top Bevel) blade, which are great general purpose blades. Triple Chip blades have a different tooth design that might make for a smoother cove right out of the box.
Unless the triple chip blade will have the middle chipper much taller than the side chippers, it won't make a difference. And the side chippers are always taller, otherwise the blade would really suck for regular cuts.
I'm baffled - how is the in-feed end of your 2x4 fence fixed in place? I see the mitre gauge is clamped to prevent movement but I can't tell how the 2x4 fence is stabilized. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment.
Make a vertical midersaw " angle thing" where you can sharpen the blade in various fixed positions made specifically for a saw blade. Sorry for my techical terms in english..."angle thing" xD hope you get the picture xD
What if you run it twice at the same depth and maybe turned the piece around making the groves do a cross pattern? Maybe more of them would go away then. Interesting video as always!
Безусловно, пила заточенная радиусом - даст лучшие результаты, но не исключит шлифование. Поэтому можно просто использовать пилу с трапециевидным зубом, после которого шлифовать нужно меньше. Certainly saw sharpened radius - will give better results, but not eliminate grinding. Therefore, you can simply use a saw with trapezoidal tooth, after which you need to grind lower. Mark.
Matthias, I've noticed with your recent videos a huge jump in video quality, I assume that you've invested in a new camera, and I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your attention to video quality. It really goes a long way in showing the details of your work.... I know this is probably answered somewhere else, but I can't find it... What's the camera model?
Well iam happy that you discovered a NEW way of cutting cove moulding but the truth is that method has bin around for well over 100 years. My grandfather showed it to me and I am 74 years old.
I wasn't aware this was something that is supposed to be done. I went perpendicular to the blade when making faces for flush front drawers at work. I didn't have a suitable selection of tools, so I figured a few passes across the blade sideways would do the job. It did rather well, too. I didn't run into the lines like you showed, or at least don't recall noticing that. And here I thought I made a few dead woodworkers roll over in their graves!
I don't think it makes a huge difference with the standard blade because even if the surface is rough when finished cutting you can just use sand paper and run is down the wood by hand and smooth the surface.
The 10" saw probably runs around 3450 rpm arbor speed. With 7¼" blades, you might want to use a larger motor pulley to get the proper tip speed (4500 rpm). Your cuts might be a bit smoother. =Brian=
you can get blades that are "flat-top" instead of "alternate-bevel" To the teeth exactly same length and profile you could grind while it is running in the tablesaw, though the safety police might come to get you ;)
Matthias Wandel a sharp scraper works or a molding cutter set Sears used to sell them with blades you can grind your own shapes into. The curved blades are standard issue
Is there a reason you didn't just use a rip blade? My Freud "Glue line rip" has a profile similar to what you were grinding. You can see the grind on on Amazon's page if you scroll down. www.amazon.com/Freud-LM74R010-10-Inch-Ripping-PermaShield/dp/B00006XMTV I am guessing other brands have a similar grind.
Matthias Wandel To get the corners ground more uniformly, could you leave the blades on the table saw, run it at a slow RPM and hold a file to the blade. You'll be able to round it off a lot more easily that way (with a fine enough file)
actually if you tilt the blade then you would only need a straight edge at an angle exactly opposite the tilt of the blade, no ? then you would get a perfectly smooth surface. At least that's how i imagine it, not that i tried it or can try it.
furtim1 actually that's the point so that the side of the blade is parallel to the wood while being at an angle, what was the top of the blade would now be at a 90° angle, perfect for pushing through the wood. But getting the blade tooth angle to be precisely parallel to the wood would be pretty difficult, being even just slightly of you would get marks again, this is why Matthias chose to round of the blade instead.
Wouldn't work. It would only be parallel at the top. Reason being: at the top its parallel, but at the bottom it would be perpendicular, and at the sides (90 degrees on the blade) it would be a 45 degree angle, then every angle in between. The only way I see it working, other than having a special cove blade, is multiple passes; or if you tilt the blade, pass it through backwards. One more time consuming way would be to time the revolution of the saw blade, and push the piece through the width of the teeth at the speed of the blade making a revolution. Slow process, but smoother results. Could try doing the same for just 2 (alternate) or 3 (triple-chip) teeth in the same way, but I doubt each tooth is made 100% the same as the other teeth of its type on the blade.
In England table saws are not supposed to be used without the gaurd. As a result all cuts must be through cuts. Cove cutting is not cosidered safe similarly dado blades are not allowed.
I am sorry that you live in such a restricted place. Nanny state busy bodies have tried to illegalize all kinds of things and are only occassionally kept at bay here in the States. They get into controlling tools, clothes, appliances, cars, weapons, food, building materials, toys, cosmetics, electronics, vehicles, plants, furniture, architectural styles, and the list goes on to include "everything they have gotten away with so far."
furtim1 in fact the uk is one of the safest places in the world due to our regulation. We are not provented from doing things only advised. Following health and safety guidance reduces accidents, injuries and fatalities. If a job can't be done a safer way then it is done the safest way. Removing the gaurd from a saw bench is almost never required. I watch many utube vids where the guards are not used for even standard jobs. This is lazy and foolish. With the increased education of workers in the uk I have noticed the reduction of injuries carried by the staff I interview. 20 years ago I expected every other tradesman I interviewed to have lost at least one finger. Now it's unheard of. I had a builder working on my house once. He was cutting bricks with a trowel without eye protection. I commented "you will loose an eye if you carry on like that" he replied " I already have" some people never learn.
Health and safety is just common sence. Some people are to blind to see the logic behind the approach. I think some are just free spirits unwilling to be guided. So for example a joke about pointed kitchen knifes. Nearly all my kitchen knifes have a point, but why? I dont use it. Perhaps the ones that don't need points would be safer without. This doesn't mean I can't have a point on a knife it just means the chance of injury is reduced if less knives are pointed. Logical safe thinking doesn't stop anyone from doing anything, it just let's us do it safely. The examples in my own life are many. My family friends and I carry many scars from doing things not applying modern heath and safety practice. Example 1. My dad spent 6 months in hospital after falling from a ladder. If health and safety had been followed the ladder would have been secured. 2. I ran a chop saw thorough my leg just above the knee. It had a broken gaurd and I thought I would be careful. 3. My dad lost the end of a finger working on a washing machine with the plug still in the socket. 4. My friend was crippled for life falling from an inappropriate set of steps while changing a light bulb. 5. Another friend was climbing a loft ladder that had been incorrectly fitted. It collapsed causing him to fall. He is no longer able to work. 6. I have severed the nerves in my left finger when I slipped with a chisel. Of course I want following logical safe practice. Logical safe but not restrictive. Do a job as safely as possible. That may mean doing it another way.
![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
Was cutting some coves for this week's project, came up with some improvements, so made a video on those as well. Main video coming on Friday.
Cool ideas, Matthias!
Really like that outdoor workbench, too.
Wouldn't grinding all the teeth to the opposite angle of the blade tilt (so the teeth heads are all parallel to the surface of the saw table) provide a smoother finish? Rather than creating small sharp cuts which will leave grooves on the machined surface, you would have a larger cutting surface which would reduce the grooves.
It might cause additional heat due to the larger contact area of the teeth though. I'm not sure if that would be sufficient to create burns and it would probably be specific to the type of wood (similar to cherry burning easier than red oak).
I get your frugality, but why not just buy a triple chip and be done with it. The way you reground those teeth your likely to only have one tooth cutting!
Because it was a heck of a lot quicker to grind the banged up blade than go find a fancy blade like that. Plus, the triple chip blade may still end up cutting with the corners.
Throwing money at a problem, in many cases, also costs more in time than a quick hack.
Ein ganz normales Flachzahn-Sägeblatt wäre für sowas besser geeignet. Als Schreiner nimmt man dafür eine Kehlscheibe (alles andere wäre im professionellen Bereich auch verboten).
Your idea to use a radius shaped tooth is spot on to improve the cove cutting process on a Table Saw. I believe this can further be improved if instead of a half round tooth profile a quarter radius profile is used. Since the highest portion of the tooth profile is in the middle of a half round tooth the rest of the tooth doesn’t come into contact with the work piece. With a quarter round tooth profile the last half of the tooth being a flat area will be in contact with the work surface thus increasing actual tooth cutting efficiency.
Mr. Wandel your videos seem to be the bench mark of wood working videos. Your out of the box thinking has sparked many of others to come up with new ideas in wood working and inspired many others to share their ideas, If I was wearing a hat I would tip it.
It's probably worth mentioning that tilting the blade changes the shape of the cove cut. Which probably only matters if you are trying to get a specific shape to your cove :)
Yes, worth mentioning. That's why I mention it in the article that goes with it.
This guys is a genius at woodworking....
You´re doing very well. It´s nice that you to let the spectators whitness your own process of experiencing and finding the best solution to a specific problem.
People who are not afraid to say "I made a mistake." are more credible and more likely to be true geniuses. All the best.
Interesting concepts ... thanks Mattias
Colin
A pleasure to watch. Love all your videos, explained fully and precise.
Thanks for sharing.
John in England.
Saw my woodworking instructor make a cove like this once years ago, and I've been looking for avideo on how it's done. Thanks so much! really interesting about the cutter teeth.
I found your channel accidentally, I'm glad I did. You've got a new sub.
Loving your fountain pen!
Good stuff Matthias. After seeing izzys attempt at this I decided to give it a try and I scrapped the idea cause it came out so rough. Like you said though, at first glance it looks great. Nice that you cleaned up the process.
Extremely Interesting Matthias,
This was a very thought provoking video.
Regards,
Bob
That looks like a great improvement with your blade regrind job. add just a few minutes using a curved scraper card it would be glass smooth. I would be happy with that last experiment. Always a good second use for old carbide blades. Nice job and thanks for sharing.
Maybe a triple chip ground blade would be good. I have one for cutting steel that I could try.
...or a dado stack? Seems "more blades the better" might apply here.
@@VideoNOLA Dado blades are forbidden in Italy for security reasons ( although I can't understand why, taking appropriate measures .... kickback force, maybe? How many accidents do You have in Usa because of dado blades ? )
@@richardsorge- Very few. I dont know why they are banned.
@@richardsorge-not the blades just the saws that can accept them
Your videos are always awesome and informative. :)
both these vids are really great i`ve had same problems
Hola muy buen vídeo estoy tratando de trabajar en el mismo proyecto con los pocos medios que tengo, están muy buenas esas enseñanzas saludos
Hundreds of comments & I'm not reading them however I would try a 60 tooth for a finer cut instead of a 24 tooth but great idea as usual. Your parents must have had a blast with you!
Excelente! Gracias por enseñarnos..Saludos desde México. ..
What if you stack 2 blades so that the teeth are alternate? Would that produce a similar result?
This cove cutting works great for raised panels too if you don't have a router bit.
Awesome, Was having a conversation with a colleague about the cove on table saw technique just yesterday.I need to get some blades for my smaller saw, Panel saws a just too bulky to do this on,
I am just a beginner, I don't own a real table saw, I don't plan on cutting coves, but the information that dremel has a diamond disc that can be used for sharpening blades is very helpful. Thanks!
You should take your ideas to Freud or Forrest and work with them to develop a cove cutting blade. I would buy one.
look at the cmt crown molding set.
Neat experiment! What about using a rounded molding head cutter?
i hate how smart you are. makes me feel inadequate
I am always impressed by your cleverness, and I hope your experiments work out.
I would like to point out however that the traditional method would be to build a molding plane and use that. Perhaps you can try that and see if that works any better. :-)
I recently made a few boxes with this method of cutting the cove. I built another box without the cove cut in it. I was wondering what your thoughts were on attempting to cut the cove into the already assembled box. I would hate to try it and ruin the box
I made enough 7" wide victorian cove this way, using a regular saw blade, to do my whole house. A blade with big, long carbide teeth (the old Shop Smith blades really work well) works best. I never rounded off the teeth and had to do a lot of sanding but it still worked fine. I used a router to cut a profile on one side. With that kind and size of molding costing north of five bucks a foot, I saved enough to pay for a very nice table saw.
Matthias, did you consider using a blade or blades from a dado set? The teeth are wider and flat so you might be able to make a better rounded tooth. If you used both of the outboard blades from a dado set you could make your wider rounded profile.
great stuff...would love it if you could show how to glue mitre in details with homemade tools....
I went on your website and couldn't find plans to making the ac/dc box you use to control your grinder
Hi Matthias, I saw Your cove cutting calculator. Could You please explain why I need the "steps" ?
I can't understand why I could not just fix the fence to the final dimension of the cove needed, and then made single passes raising the blade of say, 2 mm each time. Thank You ! ( everything always informative, anyway, go on with these good ideas )
Mathias, I´ve been worried all the time about a missing tooth on a blade, can you tell me if yours came off flying white cutting or how did it happen ? Thank you
So my question is, does it come out smoother if on the last pass you flip it around and run it through the other way, or does it just make diamond shapes instead of stripes?
I like this idea
After the cut applying sanding would work ok?
the arbortech woodcarver discs for small angle grinders seem to be nearly perfect for that purpose
Nice! I always appreciate the theory!
I have an idea, though I have not tried it yet. It may have even been mentioned, but I haven't seen it.
What if you used a rip blade instead. Since the cut angle is already small you wouldn't have to file down the teeth. Unfortunately because of this it cause breakout/splintering on the edges of the grooves. Like I said I haven't tried it yet but I plan to since I want to use this idea for a near future project.
meu amigo! eu já tentei fazer e não consegui, gostaria de saber qual o Macete correto, se é tamanho do disco, ou se é apenas o grau mesmo? pois tentei de Farias formas e não deu certo.
a molding head for table saw with round cutters works well!
Matthias have you tried the CMT cove cutter for you table saw?
smart really smart
Best Regards
Very good ,keep on innovating.
P-E Andersson
wouldn't the groove pattern in the cut be caused by the speed your passing it over the blade? Once you're getting smooth cuts with little break out surely you can just give it a really slow pass
I was thinking about this the other day-- what if you not only stacked 2 blades, but a hardboard disc with a slightly oversize sheet of sandpaper on it cut in little flaps-- it would cut the cove and sand it as it went by...
Is this a good way of making wooden shoe horns?
The part that I took away from this was the actual cove jig. Brilliantly simple. Like it was said before, just sand it out to finish
Would a stacked dado work for this?
Nice
Where did you get all those ideas?
the last coves I ran using a table saw molding cutter-head with 1 inch flute cutters which gives a one pass cut on shallow coves (longer cutting edge) and left a easy too sand finish. your sanding off points not sanding out scratches
Maybe try using a molding head with a round over cutter might just do the trick?
Pas mal !!!
I actually cut coves whilst in education with a so called "Wanknutsäge" which is essentially a Sawblade with the possibility to adjust the width of the cut and isn't mounted at exactly 90°. We've cut really nice coves in wood.
In europe however is it banned for using because officials claimed that it is too dangerous to work with...
Well at least your safe *smirk*
What kind of pen is that Matthias?
is it possible to take the belly out of a cheap table saw table?IThe table measures 20"x27" and is made out of Aluminum.I know it's cheap but it's all i got.
A flat bottom blade may work also (lots of ppl have those to make non-through cuts) unless you want to get real fancy and angle the blade to machine parabolic coves.
What about the outer blades of a dado stack put in the opposite way? That would make one big triangle, wouldn't it? Normally the outer blades have all their points going to the outside, this would just make their points go to the inside.
a suggestion would be to sharpen the sawblade to the same/similar angel as the piece is put into the blade which make it use more of the cutting area.
How about using a triple chip grind blade aka melamine blade as they dont have the off set teeth like you have?
That was going to be my suggestion. For those who don't know, Matthias is using an ATB (Alternating Top Bevel) blade, which are great general purpose blades. Triple Chip blades have a different tooth design that might make for a smoother cove right out of the box.
Unless the triple chip blade will have the middle chipper much taller than the side chippers, it won't make a difference. And the side chippers are always taller, otherwise the blade would really suck for regular cuts.
I'm baffled - how is the in-feed end of your 2x4 fence fixed in place? I see the mitre gauge is clamped to prevent movement but I can't tell how the 2x4 fence is stabilized. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment.
It's screwed to the miter gauge
bagus banget bos
Make a vertical midersaw " angle thing" where you can sharpen the blade in various fixed positions made specifically for a saw blade. Sorry for my techical terms in english..."angle thing" xD hope you get the picture xD
What if you run it twice at the same depth and maybe turned the piece around making the groves do a cross pattern? Maybe more of them would go away then. Interesting video as always!
Or just make a second, slower pass. The teeth aren't going to cut the same channel twice in a row.
Безусловно, пила заточенная радиусом - даст лучшие результаты, но не исключит шлифование.
Поэтому можно просто использовать пилу с трапециевидным зубом, после которого шлифовать нужно меньше.
Certainly saw sharpened radius - will give better results, but not eliminate grinding.
Therefore, you can simply use a saw with trapezoidal tooth, after which you need to grind lower.
Mark.
The rough result would produce nice grip for a round object grabber.
Fine finish tooth blade might probably work better. ... but great idea !!
Matthias, I've noticed with your recent videos a huge jump in video quality, I assume that you've invested in a new camera, and I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your attention to video quality. It really goes a long way in showing the details of your work.... I know this is probably answered somewhere else, but I can't find it... What's the camera model?
It's a nikon J3. but most cameras these days will do a pretty good job.
Thanks!
facebook.com/woodgears.ca/photos/pb.104271949606862.-2207520000.1407934460./665447846822600/?type=3&theater
Well iam happy that you discovered a NEW way of cutting cove moulding but the truth is that method has bin around for well over 100 years. My grandfather showed it to me and I am 74 years old.
Do tell me where I claim this method is new.
I bet if you could find an old Craftsman molding head cutter cheaply. I know they made half round cutters for them... that'd be the ticket!
I wasn't aware this was something that is supposed to be done. I went perpendicular to the blade when making faces for flush front drawers at work. I didn't have a suitable selection of tools, so I figured a few passes across the blade sideways would do the job. It did rather well, too. I didn't run into the lines like you showed, or at least don't recall noticing that.
And here I thought I made a few dead woodworkers roll over in their graves!
What result would you get by using a cheap plywood blade with an increased number of teeth.
Please note: Always very important to wear a respirator when grinding carbide. Cobalt dust is nobody's friend.
Sommerfeld/CMT already makes a cove blade with the rounded profile. Not cheap at $129, but then again, neither are two stacked quality blades.
The difference between 2:50 and after you move the light at 2:51 - very dramatic difference.
I don't think it makes a huge difference with the standard blade because even if the surface is rough when finished cutting you can just use sand paper and run is down the wood by hand and smooth the surface.
Do biscuit jointers have square teeth? I forget.
The 10" saw probably runs around 3450 rpm arbor speed.
With 7¼" blades, you might want to use a larger motor pulley to get the proper tip speed (4500 rpm).
Your cuts might be a bit smoother.
=Brian=
I got really distracted by the pen. Is that Pelican pelicano?
yes, it's a Pelican.
you can get blades that are "flat-top" instead of "alternate-bevel"
To the teeth exactly same length and profile you could grind while it is running in the tablesaw, though the safety police might come to get you ;)
Lol, I read your comment, and the very next one I seen was a comment from a safety expert.
Made me laugh a little :-D
30 seconds of sanding would be easier, but understanding the process is cool.
Yes. 30 seconds of sanding would be easier. But it's a LOT more than 30 seconds of sanding.
Matthias Wandel a sharp scraper works or a molding cutter set Sears used to sell them with blades you can grind your own shapes into. The curved blades are standard issue
Is there a reason you didn't just use a rip blade? My Freud "Glue line rip" has a profile similar to what you were grinding. You can see the grind on on Amazon's page if you scroll down. www.amazon.com/Freud-LM74R010-10-Inch-Ripping-PermaShield/dp/B00006XMTV I am guessing other brands have a similar grind.
The square profile of some rip blade still has corners on it. Marginally better, but you'd still want to grind the corners off.
Matthias Wandel To get the corners ground more uniformly, could you leave the blades on the table saw, run it at a slow RPM and hold a file to the blade. You'll be able to round it off a lot more easily that way (with a fine enough file)
How about an OSB blade or something with more teeth? A dado set?
Maybe a cove sander is the answer?
...don't they make cove blades?
İ think you have to cut flat nor round shape. Round shapes make arks at sides. Anyway you must try flat the teeth top.
Try making a slower pass over the saw.
Wouldn't a decent dado stack with flat teeth do the trick?
I swear I have seen a saw blade with rounded teeth. I just can't remember where.
Sommerfeld makes the cove cutting blade
its called a triple chip grind
, i see it on the melamine blades at work
actually if you tilt the blade then you would only need a straight edge at an angle exactly opposite the tilt of the blade, no ? then you would get a perfectly smooth surface.
At least that's how i imagine it, not that i tried it or can try it.
Yup, that's what I thought, knock every other tooth off and tilt to the blade to the bevel angle
This is what I was thinking. Grind off the tips, then tilt to that angle. You've now got a large flat surface doing your cutting,
I think that's backwards. You would still be cutting with the side of the blade, rather than the top.
furtim1
actually that's the point so that the side of the blade is parallel to the wood while being at an angle, what was the top of the blade would now be at a 90° angle, perfect for pushing through the wood.
But getting the blade tooth angle to be precisely parallel to the wood would be pretty difficult, being even just slightly of you would get marks again, this is why Matthias chose to round of the blade instead.
Wouldn't work. It would only be parallel at the top. Reason being: at the top its parallel, but at the bottom it would be perpendicular, and at the sides (90 degrees on the blade) it would be a 45 degree angle, then every angle in between.
The only way I see it working, other than having a special cove blade, is multiple passes; or if you tilt the blade, pass it through backwards.
One more time consuming way would be to time the revolution of the saw blade, and push the piece through the width of the teeth at the speed of the blade making a revolution. Slow process, but smoother results. Could try doing the same for just 2 (alternate) or 3 (triple-chip) teeth in the same way, but I doubt each tooth is made 100% the same as the other teeth of its type on the blade.
In England table saws are not supposed to be used without the gaurd. As a result all cuts must be through cuts. Cove cutting is not cosidered safe similarly dado blades are not allowed.
There are lots of things that everything isn't allowed to do that people do. Doesn't make it any less or more safe.
Just don't push the wood with your hands and turn off the saw when you aren't cutting and you'll probably be fine.
I am sorry that you live in such a restricted place. Nanny state busy bodies have tried to illegalize all kinds of things and are only occassionally kept at bay here in the States. They get into controlling tools, clothes, appliances, cars, weapons, food, building materials, toys, cosmetics, electronics, vehicles, plants, furniture, architectural styles, and the list goes on to include "everything they have gotten away with so far."
furtim1 in fact the uk is one of the safest places in the world due to our regulation. We are not provented from doing things only advised. Following health and safety guidance reduces accidents, injuries and fatalities. If a job can't be done a safer way then it is done the safest way. Removing the gaurd from a saw bench is almost never required. I watch many utube vids where the guards are not used for even standard jobs. This is lazy and foolish. With the increased education of workers in the uk I have noticed the reduction of injuries carried by the staff I interview. 20 years ago I expected every other tradesman I interviewed to have lost at least one finger. Now it's unheard of. I had a builder working on my house once. He was cutting bricks with a trowel without eye protection. I commented "you will loose an eye if you carry on like that" he replied " I already have" some people never learn.
I agree, but banning dado blades because it isn't a through cut?
The same work safe way of thinking is embedded in the Australian workforce too.
HONEY I SHRUNK THE KIDS
why dont u make a cricket bat ??
Health and safety is just common sence. Some people are to blind to see the logic behind the approach. I think some are just free spirits unwilling to be guided. So for example a joke about pointed kitchen knifes. Nearly all my kitchen knifes have a point, but why? I dont use it. Perhaps the ones that don't need points would be safer without. This doesn't mean I can't have a point on a knife it just means the chance of injury is reduced if less knives are pointed. Logical safe thinking doesn't stop anyone from doing anything, it just let's us do it safely.
The examples in my own life are many. My family friends and I carry many scars from doing things not applying modern heath and safety practice.
Example
1. My dad spent 6 months in hospital after falling from a ladder. If health and safety had been followed the ladder would have been secured.
2. I ran a chop saw thorough my leg just above the knee. It had a broken gaurd and I thought I would be careful.
3. My dad lost the end of a finger working on a washing machine with the plug still in the socket.
4. My friend was crippled for life falling from an inappropriate set of steps while changing a light bulb.
5. Another friend was climbing a loft ladder that had been incorrectly fitted. It collapsed causing him to fall. He is no longer able to work.
6. I have severed the nerves in my left finger when I slipped with a chisel. Of course I want following logical safe practice.
Logical safe but not restrictive. Do a job as safely as possible. That may mean doing it another way.
Oh for god sakes, you get enough UA-cam views to spend 30 bucks on an experiment!
do not do this at home !