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DIY tips: How to rip a long board on a table saw by yourself
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2023
- Safety first: Always keep your hands away from the blade.
Check out how carpenter Mark rips a long board alone.
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I came in here for the comments 😅 y'all didn't disappoint
We're full service.
1: get an adjustable roller.
2: work smarter not harder.
3: eat a sandwich to celebrate not having to do a waltz around a spinning blade or start a saw with you out of position halfway through a cut. Wtf are you doing? Kids, dont do this.
I'm set up in back yards and uneven terrain. Times an adjustable roller is parallel to the table, close enough--but not too close--to accept the material without tipping or that it supports long, floppy material all the way through the cut: All pretty near zero. - My hands are never near the blade. The wood has never kicked back.
@MyFixitUpLife home improvement with Mark & Theresa what you posted isn't a pro tip, it's how to get seriously yelled at by an actual pro.
Whoever is holding the camera could catch the plank and you wouldn't be encouraging people to risk their safety. This is irresponsible
@@jameskirk3you clearly don’t work by yourself ever or even do carpentry
Iam went through our local 1281 carpenter aprentiship.......done more commercial and residential jobs I can think of..... almost everyone from start to finish and and started a Commercial general contracting company.......coho contractors llc......and have hundreds of hours on table saw and HAVE DONE EXACTLY WHAT HE DID MANY TIMES......BUNCHBOF HATERS ON YOU TUBE NOW ADAYS......PROBLY SITTING AT HOME EATING PATOTO CHIPS
He shut the saw off so he could talk.....you usually wouldn't shut it off in the middle of the cut bonehead.......common sence ain't so common
Turn the saw off half way through. Go to the other side, reach over the saw and fumble around for the power switch.... that sounds as dumb as it looks.
I get what you're saying. In real life, I don't turn the saw off. I'm doing at least three things here: Producing the video, building the deck, and cutting the board. - While explaining what I am doing, I did shut off the saw because I was looking away from it to talk to camera. In real life, no. It's one, fluid motion.
@@myfixituplife In that case, maybe you should consider showing what you actually do. Instead of interrupting your flow to explain, you should let the video show the action. Explain beforehand what you're going to do, then do it, then explain what you just did. Either that or overdub after shooting the video. You'd have gotten much less grief in the comments over what really did appear to be an awkward maneuver. But then you wouldn't have gotten nesr as many comments, including this one. And it's getting to be an absolute epidemic of UA-camrs doing silly things to gain more comments which I guess translates into money somehow.
I really just stopped by to let you know you've earned yourself at least one Don't Recommend This Channel.
I get it. Let's see some of your videos. Show me how it's done.
@@myfixituplifeThat is the right attitude. Learning from your mistakes and avoiding an accident.
Step 5, have someone there ready to call 911...
Really? What's funny about you guys who think the sky is going to fall is that you think you're table saw experts, but you're usually far from it.
On this weeks episode of "How not to operate a table saw."
Where can we find your How-To episodes? My guess, after watching the technique work like a charm, is nowhere. Sorry you're flummoxed, dude. But that doesn't mean it doesn't work.
@@myfixituplife 🤡
@@myfixituplife nobody said it didn’t work it’s just stupid and very dangerous. Yes it’ll work good couple times but they’ll come a day when you really will regret doing it that way I’m just saying why look on the Internet when you could do it the right way
This Is a perfect example of "how to generate a kick back on a saw table"
This is a perfect way to get your fingers cut off
Really? You don't say. Let's see. My hands are 8-miles away from the blade. The work doesn't pinch. And nothing lit of fire.
Sure if you’re an airhead in the clouds who’s careless and forgetful. This is good practice for when you’re working alone and on uneven surfaces which a LOT of us do.
@@slaphappy5252 I work alone and on uneven surfaces all the time. Seems that's where they keep most of the decks I build.
@@slaphappy5252no, it is stupid and dangerous and any wood worker worth half his salt will tell you this 😂
@@flowleopard893 I’m not sure any single person here cares what a woodworker would say especially because there’s no woodworker there doing the job. Fact is, if you are well equipped to paying attention then you greatly minimize your chances of a mishap. It’s the same as a person who drives a car but doesn’t drive it like a professional car driver… if it works for them and their means of paying attention keeps them from getting into accidents then by all means. Plus the only thing stupid was your chicken 💩 comment you little prick.
Whoever was filming is very brave to chance an 8' strip of deck board to the forehead at 100mph!
First, camera wasn't directly behind the saw. Second, I'm not much for rolling the dice. Knowing how my table saw works? Yes. Taking ridiculous chances? No. Life is hard enough.
how exactly not how to do it
I get it. But also, this: I t works.
agreed 100%
@@izatafactnow Wrong.
@@izatafactnow You saw it work, right?
Why?
Pro tip, lower your blade just above the wood you are cutting
Pro tip - A higher blade puts more carbide on wood fiber. If your margin of error is less than 1-inch, it's not me who is doing it wrong. - That said, less dust comes back when the blade is lower. As for safety, keep your hands a mile away from the blade first.
@@myfixituplifeI think there is more carbide in contact with the wood when the blade is lower. Now an argument could be made about the angle of atrack of the cutting edge being more efficient, but definitely not related to the surface area. All that said, I top out the blade too because modern tools don't care so much about a bit ot extra efficiency when they are as powerful as they are😂😂
@@myfixituplife that is not at all accurate, blade manufacturers have specified hook angles on their blades teeth. which in almost every instance say that a 1/4” (max) above the workpiece is ideal for all intents and purposes.
Higher blade pulls the board down into the table better.
Lower blade increases the chances of accidents with board riding up the blade and kicking back. Which brings up next point... don't stand directly behind board in case of a kickback.
I just so enjoy a good blade height argument. Truth is, everyone has a height they are comfortable with and they create a reason it's 'right'. No scientifically established best practices exist.
Please don't give advice on how to use a piece of equipment if you don't know the basic safety of that tool - you should never run cupped/twisted lumber in a table saw - a table saw is meant to be used AFTER you joint one face and one edge ... If you do run a cupped board through there is the REAL risk that when the blade gets through the board , the cup collapses on the blade, it pinches the blade and you get kick back
I'm sorry, but you saw it work, right? Your point is?
@@myfixituplife my point is getting lucky and not kicking back doesn't mean its safe practice and you should teach it to others .... I can swim with sharks and not get bitten , doesnt mean its a great idea ... New comers to woodworking that are inexperienced might see your video and be oblivious to this being a dangerous technique - i wouldn't even attempt this on my saw stop let alone a jobsite saw that will maim you for life
What is the male name for karen I forgot...
@@DavidVanHelden1 you want to rip rough swan lumber on a job site table sawl? Go right ahead chief - your fingers your choice 👊
All these fools busting this guys chops like seriously what the hell do u want any of us to do all the wood is coming out like this lets not cut anything at alp and build nothing so we can satisfy this keyboard doctor safetys out there
Dude can you please do everyone a favour? Do not post, you will get someone seriously injured, a fool is a fool
Butch up, dude. Do you really think a table saw can tell if the work is being pushed or pulled?
This is extremely dangerous for inexperienced person to do
I taught myself when I was inexperienced. I get what you’re saying, but its not witchcraft either.
@@myfixituplife bro my point is average DIY'er will lose fingers trying to do this, it makes sense for builder like yourself but the guy who sees table saw for the first time this is a big no no
@@berempamuk123 I hear you. I wish I had way more time to go full deep dive on all this stuff.
I also would rather the wood shoot across the yard than into me so I've done it the same If somebody is with me I usually step aside and have them pull it through
I taught this to myself as a a super green carpenter. 30-years in, I think I might be on to something. I did it yesterday.
Pro Tip: Find a cameraman willing to stare down the barrel... crazy shot
Pro Tip: Understand what causes kickback and then don't do that.
Next week on pro tips, we mount our table saw to the ceiling so we dont have to walk around it. Also safety is improved by 100% for kickback as now it is rendered non existant thanks to physics, as weve now redefined it as kickdown.
I see where you are going with the comedy, but I recommend decaf.
I'll be damned a rocket scientist
Go for it. Not my thing.
Weapons grade engineering right there
When you restart the blade a lot of contact is being made. Would it be a better idea to pull the board back an inch before starting it up again and pulling through?
Great question. My answer is, No. I have been doing this so long, it's like breathing. Basically, it happens automatically. As you stop pushing, there is no more wood fiber for the blade to cut, so that clearance is built into the the process. Leave the board as is, then transition.
Step5, table flips over.
Wait. It flips over? Are we watching the same video?
Step6, cut the main power via the switchboard
Switchboard...Omaha 945...
You have to admire that in the comments he acknowledges absolutely NO possibility of improvement on this potentially lethal method
I love the guys who chime in who know more about commenting than about what they're commenting on. The internet must be full of you. - Maybe I'm wrong, but if I'm not, I'd suggest a pause in whining and trying to do 10-pushups.
Cameraman has a death wish
Commenter has no idea how table saws work.
Whoever was operating the video camera was standing in the worst possible place.
Not just wrong, but totally wrong.
Good way to lose a few fingers. If you pinch the kerf it will draw your hand into the saw.
Really? I will say this. Of all the haters, you're just about the only one who understands how an injury could happen. It doesn't because I keep the work parallel to the blade, but good on you.
Are you gonna tell them about the time the board got away from you & launched into the new window you just installed while almost dragging your hand across the blade?
Folks, don't ever do this.
I'd love to, sunshine, but the only problem is...wait for it...never happened. Next?
Give it time, honey. Give it time.@@myfixituplife
Yet.
How many decades do I need to wait? I've been doing this for 25-years. - I mean, you saw the video and that it worked, right?
25-years and no problem. Pretty sure this works. Unless you don't really know how table saws operate.
Lesson 1. Teach beginners how to cause serious damage.
Lesson 2. Don't follow an idiot.
Lesson 3: Just because someone jaws out some language, swoop up you Spidey-Sense.
I love using the wrist worn milwaukee remote power socket kit. Leave the saw switch "On". Control from the wrist.
Sir. I know not of this thing of which you speak.
Leaning over our machine, the perfect recipe for an accident!!
Is it? Maybe. But I don't have laces on hoodies or long hair. Others might and you are a million percent right. The idea here is to keep *everything* away from the blade. - I also work alone so I know there aren't other numbnuts right behind me.
The cool thing with pulling the board through is that a kick back will pull your hands into the blade
The cool thing about knowing how table saws work is knowing that you don't know how table saws work
Thinking about getting one of these saws heard they are a great value for the money
Absolutely outstanding saw. I've reviewed most of them and this does the most the best.
I've done this for smaller jobs. When i dont have to many long cuts to make. But for a job with a lot of cuts i use the ridgid frip top stand from home Depot very handy to have for the outfeed stand on a table saw.
Yup. Same. I use a table called The OmniTable Plus. It's normally my job site "office" .
The bucket for discharge is genius
100 percent!
Pro tip from a guy running a skil table saw!
"Pro" comment from a guy who hasn't tested all of them. - The Skil brand is 3-yeas into a reinvention and every tool I've tried has been top notch.
Thanks for tip #2. I get a lot more work done now but it's a lot noisier.
Yup.
Trying to decide between this saw or the model up for the extra $150. Any suggestions? The other one seems like it would be better for ripping bigger sheets alone, but I don’t know enough about table saws. Both look like they’d be great.
To my knowledge, this is the only Skil model. There are SkilSAW models-different, heavier, worm drive, not included legs, other-but I still like the Skil.
Great for when the Mrs. Is mad at you.😂
She shot it, so…
Can you cut 2*6*7 wood
Extra tip: Don't push the two cut pieces together, it will bind the blade.
Yup. I shove my pinky in there to separate the boards. Good call.
One large pizza please, hold the phalanges.
@@jfalbo Had to look this one up. And, yeah, no. Still don’t get it. But I do now haver a hankerin’ for a slice of roni. Extra grease.
My god. Had that kicked the camera person would’ve lost their head.
There are a few reasons boards kick. I learned them, I suspect, like most of us did: The hard way. But there are only a few of them and not doing the things that make them kick seems to work time and again. Hoping something doesn't kick is silly. Understand how the tool works and rely less on luck.
@@myfixituplife Agreed, however, I couldn’t help but think of the worst in a situation like that. Safety first
I appreciate this video
I appreciate your comment. Thank you.
Cracking tip, thanks.
Cracking! Love it. - It's unconventional, but it works. - Keep everything parallel and your hands away from the blade. - The saw can't tell if the work is being pushed or pulled. It's just a saw.
Christ , lets cut corners and do it the most dangerous way 😅
From what I've heard on UA-cam and what happens over and over again in my daily life, what you say means you don't know what you're talking about.
Can you rip the board WITH the plastic safety, guard and pawl in place? Or is it better NOT to use it? Just using the riving knife as he does in the video.
On much older saws, you could NOT use the guard or pawls, but maybe on the newer saws?
@@mdtcomm1533 Using my technique, the guards and pawls will not hinder you for, what, 85% of rips. They definitely will get in the way if you need to make a buch of thin rips like 3/4-inch furring strips I’m using in a basement remodel right now. - In my experience, the best course of action os to keep your hands away from the blade. The only place it can cut you is where it is. It can’t move, but you can.
@@myfixituplifethanks!!!
If anyone ends up in this situation (working alone, need to rip long strips, unecen terrrain) often, it's worth your time to make an extended aux fence, which will help support infeed and outfeed.
“Aux fence” - 1-million percent. - In other words, an “outfeed table”. - I do this on big rip jobs as a matter of course. For one or two boards, totally not worth it. - I’ve used many setups-almost all those roller stands and whatnot DO NOT work for me. But a worktable you buy or one you make can pay for itself many times over. Thank you for your experience and insight.
Step four: don’t show the terribly wonky cut to the people you’re trying to teach.
Cut is not wonky. Next…
All table saw work is dangerous, I couldn’t agree more (unless you have a saw stop I guess). Because this is something of a “how-to” for diyers, I think it would be worth while to include a disclaimer at the end about finding another way if this feels uncomfortable or dangerous. I think this would also prevent some of the negative comments
Thank you. And I appreciate your constructive criticism. However, we don't have a task force to review our media. - We come from old school editorial where there are layers of writers, subject matter expert/editors, Chief editors, copy editors...this is how a magazine was built back in the day. - Today, it's just us and we do what we can do. - Try it yourself and see how you fare. - SawStop...I get it. I interviewed the inventor for an hour or more 20+ years ago. Sure, it works. I also recommend techniques that keep your hand away from the blade.
You never pull the board through because it's dangerous. The board can kick back and take off your fingers. You should always push it through with a push stick or push block. Look it up! How to safely use a table saw.
You saw it work, right? The saw doesn't care if the work is pushed or pulled. It cares if it is parallel. Bro...
Is that blade set a little high? I thought it was supposed to be only about a quarter inch higher than the board not a full 2 inches
High for some. Bu I like more carbide on wood. It could be 2-feet high, the idea is to keep your hands away from it.
@@myfixituplifeI feel like that just increases the risk of a kickback without any positive
Edit: I just did some research and found that the question has more nuance than I previously thought.
@@ourtube4266 I know that it doesn't increase the chance of kickback. Kickback is caused by the work pinching the blade or coming out of parallel with the fence. And even if it did kick back--It never has--all I'd have to do is let go rather than risk a shot to the guts.
Why don’t you just flip it over instead of going behind the saw running the risk of it pinching, shooting the wood and your fingers into the blade.
Because this way is roughly 57,000 times easier than that and I get the same result.
You would ve laying the board on the cupped side and the cuts will likely not be aligned.
@@leegarnier9396 I've seen city newbies come into a situation and over-think with extra moves, and they end up f***ing themselves because they forgot some detail, like the board is curved; the cut won't line up. The less moves the better.
I witness this alot in computer science and electrical engineering -- there's always one in the bunch that over-thinks or recalls wrong. Overthinking is not bad, but it can cause you to forget the details. Keep it simple and with less moves.
@@complexity5545 I like how your name contradicts your conclusion
:D I'm guilty of the overthinking bit sometimes. You worded it well with the ' less moves' part.
Way I see it, it often drills down to understanding the basics well enough, Then you can add complexity on top of that for extraordinary situations. The important step that is often forgotten is to then reduce any extra crap you added without overriding those basic principles, but still be able to execute to that end goal.
Just flip it half way through way safer and stop buying home depot wood
No thanks. Way too many moves.
No. I was a carpenter for 20 years, from the late 70’s to the late 90’s, and yes I did this a few times when by myself. We didn’t have roller stands at the time, so had to make do. But I don’t recommend doing it this way. I would try to use what I had handy to catch the board, like a sawhorse or 2, depending on if and how they would stack. The few times I did it this way I didn’t shut the saw off, just kept it steady while moving around the saw. But don’t do this, get a roller stand or something to catch it. And if a board is cupped that much I wouldn’t be surprised if it has some twist in it too, which will help to create a kickback. Even when I had a board catcher, they were there just to keep it level and straight, not to pull it on through, except for maybe the last 6 inches or so on a narrower piece. I really thought when he did it the first time it was to show how not to do it. Pro tip? Just cause you get paid to do something doesn’t necessarily mean you know it all. And maybe next time, go get Teresa to catch it.
I appreciate your insight, experience and that you spent time to share it all here. - I'd love if that was what the Internet was for, but here we are. - I disagree with you, not because I don't like you or because you tweaked me ego, but because I know this works and is safe and I have decades in the can doing it this way. - As for your perspective on our business model, I get your point of view, but that's not how it works. At least for us. Our videos are born in our editorial background of what was then called "service journalism". We think it's a high mark and for sure we're not always going to hit it. - That said, I can plow through 2-by by the mile doing this. Fair?
First, when demonstrating a video on how to cut a long board… Use a long board.
You win the comments today. Fair enough. But I do this with all manner of boards. And, it's long enough. Forest for the trees, dude. Forest for the trees.
This whole clip reminds me of Tim Allen's show from back in the 1990s where he screws up on Tool Time.
Crown down ir board can bind between fence and blade.
I agree.
The amount of hate here is silly. You have avoided the risk of kick back by being up front (and you have a splitter on the saw ( I need to add one to my old saw). And you don't get your hands anywhere near the pointy bits. The only moment of danger is around the time you turn off the saw. Don't want to wiggle the board and get kick back but getting comfortable turning off the saw is a good thing so I'm not sure I see bad here. Sure rollers and a level surface would be great but you can't always get what you want.
The riving knife is incredibly important to prevent blinding and kickback on rips.
Not a pro tip
Not a pro comment
Guess I’m no pro
I don’t know what you mean, maybe you’re a board flipper or have to set up a table.
I can’t wait for his video on how to collect fingers off the ground from doing dumb shit.
And I can't wait for yours on how table saws actually work. let me know when that puppy lands, K.
I really don't like doing the push/pull method, although it does work, because I tend to mess up the angle on the pull step and end up with a crooked cut.
I prefer to just set up a plastic folding picnic table that is close to the same height as the table saw and use it as an outfeed platform to catch the boards as they leave the saw. It doesn't have to be exactly the same height. As long as it is close (and not taller than the saw) it works just fine.
I can see that. Yes, you really have to concentrate to keep the piece parallel to the fence. - Do you mean those long, gray tables? Banquet tables, I think. Awesome idea!
@@myfixituplife Yes, something like that. Although the one I like to use has legs that fold up and then the table itself folds in half to make it easier to store when it is not being used.
American joiners be carrying their whole toolbox on their hips
How many hours would you like to discuss this? - Yeah, I have tool bags left and right, but all of that is built on travelling light. - If you peruse social media, I 100% get what you mean. There are guys out there wasting time, carrying shit they don't need.
Forgot about step 0: be 70 IQ
I know you’re intention is to be Mr. Know It All, but you get extra Creativity Points for doing so in a hilarious manner. - You’re wrong, of course, but that didn’t stop the chuckle. Nice.
Skil saw says it all 😂
Best unit--for how I work--I've ever used.
Did you borrow your buddies tools? You are really a lawer, aren't you.😑
I'm sorry. You left out why I should care about your opinion of my tool source. Please advise.
It is so hard to find experts these days since they are so busy commenting with criticisms on yt videos.
I love you guys, whom I will call overwatchers. You have some degree of technical capacity, but you're also total UA-cam searchers so you can comment. Yet you also see the absurdity of the keyboard screamers. - Keep it coming.
😂😂😂what a 🤡
There is room in the car. Get your shoes on and pile in.
@myfixituplife you know what they say, those who can't do try to teach
Only one thing wrong. Blade is too high. Other than that, this is exactly how i do it. Its hard to find good help. I have to rip 4x8 sheets by myself. Everybody in the comments screaming that this isnt safe, go work at mcdonalds. This is a mans trade.
Yessiir - Blade height puts more carbide on wood fiber. - If you’re 24-inches from the blade, it doesn’t matter how high it is.
Adding a feather board and a push stick with the appropriate riving knife or kickback guard is better i think
This is carpentry, not woodworking. Anything I set up on site I have to store on a truck. And I also have to move it back and forth. - I'm more worried about rain and snow.
Don't try to justify what you did was right, Makes you look worse than the video you posted! Just take the comments with a grain of salt and move on! Oh! By the way count your blessings that you didn't get hurt
1) Get an outfeed support.
2) NEVER pull material through the table saw.....faster than you can let go it can PULL YOU through the blade.
On big rips days, yes. Absolutely. Outfeed support for sure. - For a few boards, though, no way. As for your fever dream that the table saw is going to suck you through it like a woodchipper, I already know you both don't know the tool and keep your hands way too close to the blade without fail safes. - The saw can't tell if the work is being pushed or pulled. Wood can only grab, in my experience, if it isn't parallel to the fence. And IF your scenario were accurate--and it's not, I do this all the time--all you have to do is let go of the piece that then gets pulled away from you. If you get pulled through a table saw, bro, that's on you.
Nailed it!
it works and it has been safe-for me-for decades.
Running cupped boards like that is asking for kickback especially if that lumber isn’t dried and acclimated to your climate, and changing your position so that the kickback will pull your hands into the blade is insane. You might want to invest in a SawStop your fingers will thank you
@@mist2057 I can tell when some dudes have run 11,000 miles through a bunch of different saws and when some have limited experience but easy access to a keyboard and think they know more than they do. I’m not perfect, but I’ll bet dollars to donuts you’re not in the 11,000-mile club.
I'm doing youtube research on aluminum extrusions. Realizing they're a must-have. Just make your own tablesaw extensions out of extruded aluminum, like 2040 t-slot, or 2060. It's plenty strong enough to keep perfectly straight while holding heavy sheets
Do you mean adding something to the table saw itself? Or making an independent outfeed table? - If you're talking about adding an extension to the table saw and thinking it'll support heavy stock run through it, you're going to have the surprise of your life when the table saw tips over at the end of the cut.
All good…. It one way to get ‘er down. I’m personally in favor of an out feed table set to a wee bit lower than the table saw. I like it also as a work surface. There is always a need for a flat surface to fit something or sort something.
And, we would work just fine together. On big rip days, I use my OmniTable Plus as outfeed support. For a few rips like on this deck resurface, not worth the lug. I wish it matched my table saw height a little closer so it was in fact a "wee bit" lower than the table, but it works. It is also my dedicated "flat surface" area on any job. It's usually the first thing I set up and last thing I put away. -- ua-cam.com/users/shortsiFn0lnhmfrY?si=sEOv_sBWB44Bs2SW
Whatever this guy does… Don’t copy it! Furthermore, if you have a board that crowned, get a different board 🤦🏼♂️
You saw it work, right? All boards in carpentry have a crown, mostly. Buctch up.
That was a lot of work, but that planter looks great.
Love it.
step 3b you can also flip the board when it's half way in the cut keeping the same side on the fence no need to turn off the saw
Step 0 - I don't require the extra acrobatics.
Wow you did it all by yourself! Yay!!
Sure did. Managed to get my shoes tied as well. It's a good day after all.
That's wrong you're never supposed to pull a board through you should know that
How does the saw know whether the work is being pushed or pulled?
No way in hell I’d do a stupid thing like that. Yes I’m a retired professional.
When you saw it work, what happened?
@@myfixituplifenothing this time. I’ve seen what can happen in the cabinet shop where i was a cabinet builder. The piece of wood almost went thru the wall. Our door maker did it and about wet himself. You have a lot less control way out on the outfeed end. Its the laws of physics
@@jeffwilder7117 I agree it’s the laws of physics. And I totally get the pucker moment when a hunk of hardwood gets shot at you at a million board feet a second. On the other hand, we’re still talking apples and oranges. A 3-phase stationary unit (which should have outfeed support anyway) combined with hardwoods is a different animal than a 15-amp, softwood cutting saw set up in the back yard. - I’m not making light of the very serious situation. Just pointing out that they;re not the same and the same criteria doesn’t necessarily apply. Besides, IF this piece got away from me pulling (so far, none have) all I have to do is let go.
I say it’s unsafe. I know you should have downward pressure on the board as well as adequate pressure against the fence as well as control push the board forward. I’ve used push sticks and other tools. The best and safest the easiest tool I’ve found is. Gripper. I have two and can saw long boards using the out feed table and two grippers with no issues. You’re welcome to as you wish, but that’s nothing I’d recommend and have coffee morning with a number of cabinet makers and finish carpenters and the all feel the same way!
I really, really appreciate your input and perspective. - I disagree, not because you are wrong, but because our circumstances are different -- other than 2500 rpm. We can agree the blade cuts things. - I also appreciate that you describe where you're coming from: Finish and shop work. There is a lot to be gleaned from 3-phasers. - That said, carpentry is different. The metrics of set-up and production are different. - Yes, I have an outfeed table for big rip days, but for a few boards, no way. This technique--which keeps my hands away from the blade by design--works. And it is one or two fewer things I have to hum into and out of a back yard. - None of this was included in the context of this video. I wish it could have been.
Well every trick works till something bad happens… me personally I like cut 3/4 then I stop flip the board and finish the cut
I saw few people over the years cutting they hand or finger using “tricks” 🤷
This...shhhhhhhh....isn't a trick.
Well for me is 👍 I did carpentry for a carpentry custom shophere in Florida I was cnc router operator ,table saw industrial operator plus I did custom carpentry and laminate for years and floor manager and I saw many people get hurt doing skill moves and pro things
Sure seems like the general public is terrified of table saws, you should see how we use our circular saws, pretty much a swiss army table saw that you bring to the material
Talk to me.
I come around the fence side.
Anything long... support arms.
Yup. Lots of things work. I like my OmniTable.
This is terrible advice. Imagine just starting out using a table saw and you have this guy showing you how to not use tools safely.
How do you know?
this is sooo dangerous, do not do this! He's lucky there's protection in place for some kickback.
@@dsimms6 It’s not dangerous-if you know how a table saw works. It’s not how you were taught, but that’s different. Kickback happens when the work isn’t paralle to the blade and fence.
Pro safety tip, never leave the blades, higher, than the thickness of the board. Even if it isn't a complete kerf. A thin strip, will fall off, by itself. Stupid to have extra blade exposed. And less stress, on the motor.
I hear you and I know guys who do this because that's how they were taught, so it's all they know. I also know guys who do it because they say less dust comes back to them (the zero clearance throat plate I got for this thing works wonders for that and keeping the chute clear). But I keep it higher sometimes because there's more carbide on wood fiber and I think it cuts smoother. There's no way to measure, but that's how it feels. As for safety, my biggest piece of advice is to keep your hands away from the blade. If an inch or two of blade height is your margin of error, your hands are WAYYYYYY too close to the blade to begin with.
Man’s asking for less fingers.
When you saw my hands nowhere near the blade, how did you formulate this theory?
@@myfixituplife You know what? I didn’t see that you had turned the machine off before swapping sides. Re-watching the video I see that you did. My mistake friend.
@@gman4237 No worries. I typically don't. There's no reason to. However, I knew the camera was on my and that my attention was diverted, so I shut it off for a sec while I made the transition.
Everybody thinks they know best, everyone is an expert. Personally I never shut the saw off. I walk around the wall side for boards and the other side for sheets but thats just what I do.
I don't typically shut the saw off either. I realized I was going to turn and face the camera, so I did it instinctively.
My father,who was a contractor, God rest his soul saw you doing this on his jobsite would have knocked some sense into you via your backside, and then fired you,
Being an asshole doesn’t make you an expert. - And, yeah. Construction is a rugged business, but I played rugby for 12 years or so. - If you think hauling boards is tough, lace up your cleats and then we’ll talk.
Show us how to put fingers back in place ?
It's funny. I watched an exteriors guy running siding and trim for a 4-5 man crew today do this. His work flow was seamless. Nobody died. It's a high-end production build.
Yup. That's exactly what I do. Good tip man
Yessir. If you know how a table saw works, this works.
You can also get pulled in to the blade and then step 5 call an ambulance.
How? I'm 5-feet away from the blade and all I have to do is--and you scenario never happens because I know how table saws work--let go.
yup, OHSA would love you...break down and get a out feed roller.
Please. OSHA would. Nothing is going to get shot back at me. Watch the video.
@@myfixituplife Nope your right nothing will get shot back standing in front, but if it were to bind, I've seen it pull hands into the blade. Don't be an ass
For even more of a pro tip wire a off on switch on the other side
I get what you mean, but I need to save time, not waste it.
@@myfixituplife how would that waste time. It's more wasteful having reach around like your the 3rd dude in line. When you could just flip it.
This is one of the most smartest things to do,and, it is called common sense,not many nay sayers have it, great tip brother, great tip !!!
It is much appreciated. But I’m not in the game for you to like me. I’m in it to find better ways to do things. I think this is one, so I appreciate where you are coming from. Keep on, dude. Chime in any time.
@@myfixituplife I appreciate your honesty bud and that, is much appreciated, I myself am a DIY'ER looking for tips and better ways to go about working with lumber and just by watching your video here has taught me a thing or two,work smarter and not harder in a safe and efficient manner of course, keep on keepin on,thanks again 👍🏻
@@melvinw.quinene841 Yeah buddy!
or you just flip the board over end and run the rest of it through. or you just get a nice rip guide on a circ saw like a shinwa and then you don't gamble with a trip to the ER for disemboweling yourself leaning over a jobsite saw
@@ryanmcgowan9199 I hear you, but I don’t gamble with 3500 rpm. I’d rather move me-I’m built to move-than the board, which is built to stay still.
Guess after 50 years using a table saw as well as running my own business. I’m still not a pro apparently! I would never do what this guy telling people to do!
Either get a roller stand to put in front of the table saw or build yourself a table to put in front of the saw. Never walk around your table saw and pull your material thru the saw. That’s a great way to get a kick back that you have no chance at controlling
With that being said, sometimes you do things you shouldn’t do simply because you don’t have another choice at the time. Poor boys have to improvise! 😂 just as this guy has a crappy Seas tablesaw with a fence that won’t cut more than 24” with the fence. I originally had one too decades ago! I was actually free handing 4x8 sheets of plywood thru my crappy tablesaw. Drawing a straight line where I needed to make the cut and used my eyes to follow the saw cut. Yea I did it! But I never tell anyone else to do what I did. Someone gets hurt, I don’t want to be responsible for them listening to what I did! I don’t believe in hearing or eye protection either, I’m old school and how I was raised by my Dad that never used any safety equipment either! Including no guard over the saw blade! Which many professionals shops don’t use a guard over their blades either.
Depending what you’re doing those guards get in the way for one thing. Another is I rather be able to see the blade, especially when I’m running my fingers between the saw blade the fence cutting a 13/16” strip of wood that’s a common practice from time to time. 67 years old and still have all my fingers to!
One of the very few woodworkers that still have all their fingers at my age! 😂
My Dad did cut a finger on his table saw , just took the very tip of a finger. He got lucky! But he was using a quick set Datto head on his table saw and those are crazy dangerous to use! One little slip and you’re in trouble! He was 50 years old first and only time he cut a finger though!
You've got a whole bunch of experience. AND 10 fingers. - I get that this technique is different, but it works. It keeps my hands way away from the blade and the saw can't tell if the work is being pushed or pulled.
I'd personally use a push stick and an outfeed roller.
Sure. That works just fine, other than the fact that I have had ZERO outfeed rollers perform as intended. - Besides, I don’t need one. Outfeed table for big rip days, yes. But for a few, nope.
No, do not follow his way
When you saw it work--and when I and many others--did it all day today what happens to you?
Just flip it over, safest way to do it.
Maybe. "Safest" means , to me, keeping flesh away from steel.
You all knew what was going to happen by the equipment being used
That's kind of the idea. Everything is predictable. No need for hands to be near blades.
Take board out half way through then flip and cut other half
Why waste the time and effort? I move easier than the board.