Just watched the video straight through before trying to fold. You do it all so smoothly. It’s like watching an elegant dance. Mesmerizing! But logical. I need to go back & watch the videos of your models I’ve folded so far & them in their entirety before folding again. I see great value in doing that before the play-stop-fold-rewind-stop-fold way I’ve been going about it. Like trying to navigate the trees before seeing the path through the proverbial forest. Makes sense to look at the map first which I think will improve my comprehension before I even start. On another note, was studying photos of succulent plants on Instagram & one in particular is reminiscent of the hydrangea model. the ‘petals’ graduate in size rotationally rather than in layers...which got me wondering if the hydrangea model could do the same. Or, even if it were possible, would it just look wonky & clumsy... Kinda made my head spin. My humble brain could never figure it out, but then you are such a gifted genius in this genre...well, do please let us know if it can be done.
Hi there, great model. i tried this model and struggled with collapsing. It took me much effort to finish it being no beginner. What rules apply for the precreasing process? Where do go mountain folds and valley folds? Onnthe colored or uncolored side? In your video it seems the paper more obeys to the collapsing steps. Did you follow specific rules when precreasing? I would appreciate any tips. Thank you. Betsy
Hi Betsy, For hydrangeas, the horizontal and vertical creases are valleys on the coloured side and the diagonals are mountains. For clovers, it’s the other way around. When I do larger clover based tessellations, I fold every crease both ways because parts of each crease will eventually fold in different directions.
Question 1: Is there some rule of thumb about how many units comprise the center square/tile? Because I sometimes find myself unsure how many units from the edge the pleat will be before it tapers to a triangle (I think of the pointed pleat as an ‘arrow’). I mean, if I make the pleat one unit less or more in length, it can be fixed & it’s a learning moment. But, like your nifty grid charts, is there an assumed ideal square? Is it always going to be 2 X 2? If so, does the 2 unit width of the pleats dictate the square size? Question 2: Can pleats vary in width? If so, would that necessitate altering the creasing to get the model to collapse? Question 3: Am I overthinking this? Comment: I’m thinking a cold brew & a nap is in order right about now. In fact my cat is demanding we do so.
C Mire - you can definitely change the size and shape of the tiles. You need a 2x2 square tile to make a hydrangea on the reverse side, but you can make amazing patters by spacing the clover tiles in different ways. Check out my Instagram page for examples. As far as the grid creases, the most you’ll need is twice the number of diagonals as the grid - so a 16x16 square grid would have 32x32 diagonal creases.
@@origami.by.e9415 Thanks for reply. Been offline for a bit. Will definitely look at your Instagram photos again & study them as regards variations. Last time I jumped down that rabbit hole I was too awed to think in terms of details. Don’t think I’ve ever said “Wow!” so many times in a row. And then I perused your mushrooms. Magical! Truly enchanting. Great fun your photos. Thanks!
Just watched the video straight through before trying to fold. You do it all so smoothly. It’s like watching an elegant dance. Mesmerizing! But logical. I need to go back & watch the videos of your models I’ve folded so far & them in their entirety before folding again. I see great value in doing that before the play-stop-fold-rewind-stop-fold way I’ve been going about it. Like trying to navigate the trees before seeing the path through the proverbial forest. Makes sense to look at the map first which I think will improve my comprehension before I even start.
On another note, was studying photos of succulent plants on Instagram & one in particular is reminiscent of the hydrangea model. the ‘petals’ graduate in size rotationally rather than in layers...which got me wondering if the hydrangea model could do the same. Or, even if it were possible, would it just look wonky & clumsy... Kinda made my head spin. My humble brain could never figure it out, but then you are such a gifted genius in this genre...well, do please let us know if it can be done.
Vielen herzlichen Dank! Ich bin Anfänger und habe es Dank Deiner Erklärung geschafft! 😄👍🏻💋
That’s is great to hear! Keep practicing and experimenting 😁 Happy to help if you get stuck.
Done! ✅ Great tutorial ! 👍💯
Hi there, great model. i tried this model and struggled with collapsing. It took me much effort to finish it being no beginner. What rules apply for the precreasing process? Where do go mountain folds and valley folds? Onnthe colored or uncolored side? In your video it seems the paper more obeys to the collapsing steps. Did you follow specific rules when precreasing? I would appreciate any tips. Thank you. Betsy
Hi Betsy,
For hydrangeas, the horizontal and vertical creases are valleys on the coloured side and the diagonals are mountains.
For clovers, it’s the other way around.
When I do larger clover based tessellations, I fold every crease both ways because parts of each crease will eventually fold in different directions.
What do you change at the end if you were making a hydrangea?
The speed at which you can fold :O
I really like the colour of the paper and how loud it is. What kind of paper is it?
Thank you 😊
It is standard kami paper, but I love how loud it is as well!
👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Question 1: Is there some rule of thumb about how many units comprise the center square/tile? Because I sometimes find myself unsure how many units from the edge the pleat will be before it tapers to a triangle (I think of the pointed pleat as an ‘arrow’). I mean, if I make the pleat one unit less or more in length, it can be fixed & it’s a learning moment. But, like your nifty grid charts, is there an assumed ideal square? Is it always going to be 2 X 2? If so, does the 2 unit width of the pleats dictate the square size?
Question 2: Can pleats vary in width? If so, would that necessitate altering the creasing to get the model to collapse?
Question 3: Am I overthinking this?
Comment: I’m thinking a cold brew & a nap is in order right about now. In fact my cat is demanding we do so.
C Mire - you can definitely change the size and shape of the tiles. You need a 2x2 square tile to make a hydrangea on the reverse side, but you can make amazing patters by spacing the clover tiles in different ways. Check out my Instagram page for examples. As far as the grid creases, the most you’ll need is twice the number of diagonals as the grid - so a 16x16 square grid would have 32x32 diagonal creases.
@@origami.by.e9415 Thanks for reply. Been offline for a bit. Will definitely look at your Instagram photos again & study them as regards variations. Last time I jumped down that rabbit hole I was too awed to think in terms of details. Don’t think I’ve ever said “Wow!” so many times in a row. And then I perused your mushrooms. Magical! Truly enchanting. Great fun your photos. Thanks!