I've been searching forums for quite literally months trying to find just this. Thank you so so much for taking the time to patiently and thoroughly explain these steps. As a new builder with a similar setup this was GOLDEN. THANK YOU!
Absolutely brilliant video with great explanations. So much better than any of the ones that Flipsky puts on youtube! :) I've got a 75100 ESC and 65111 motor and, as a newbie, really wasn't sure what I was doing. Your video was so helpful, thanks so much! :) I'm using my motor to power a boat, rather than an efoil, so want forward and reverse. You mentioned you use the "CURRENT NO REVERSE WITH BRAKE" as the control type because, under load in the water, the acceleration / power will be easy to control. Whereas using CURRENT when the motor is out of the water, on the test bench, the control is harder. It pretty much goes straight to full throttle I guess on the bench like mine did. So I'm using DUTY CYCLE at the moment, out of the water, purely so I can be sure that the acceleration is smooth. Would you advise switching it back to CURRENT once in the water or will DUTY CYCLE be ok for my slow electric boat?
Thanks for the feedback! For eFoil that is a long discussion if current or duty is better - basically thats down to individual preferences. For your boat, both current and duty will be fine, you can try changing and see how it behaves. Probably current will be more "forseeable" in terms of when keeping the throttle constant getting the same range out of the batteries.
I have the same motor and 75 300 Tampa Vesc as you. I’m having a problem when I press the gas to around 90% and then the motor shuts off. Then I let go of the throttle and press it again and the motor will start working again. It works perfectly throughout the throttle range but if I get to 90% or higher then the motor cuts off and I have to let go of the gas and reapply the gas to make the motor turn again. how do I make the motor stop cutting out when I press the throttle to 90% or higher? What do you think the problem could be?
Hi Ludwig, many thanks for your didactic video! I follow step by step your istructions (I have a different motor, FS 7070, and I have correct the value) but I have a problem, I am not able to adjust the rpm, using the trigger throttle, my motor goes from 0% to 100% immediately. Pratically the trigger is only an on/off input. Have you any suggestions? Many many tks
@@ludwigbre Sincerely... I don't know. Next week I'll check the values (now I know what I must check, many tks) and I'll try to put the motor in water to see if something change. Many many thanks for replay
Hi Ludwig I have tested the motor in the water with impeller and the throttle work well, the problem was only that there was not the load.....I have become crazy for 2 days! Many tks!
hello, what board is the one used is it inflatable? is your 75200 esc without watercooling? how does it perform because mine heats up very fast with little current. thank you
Hi tutorial is great so far!... Thank you for posting it... I have follow your tutorial all the way to the part where you do the... Setup Input... Then I have a problem... It scans the CAN-bus... A window pops up and it says... "All VESCs must have the latest firmware to perform this operation." Your VESC (or one of the VESCs on the CAN-bus) has old firmware, and needs to be updated. After that, the motor configuration has to be done again I thought we just did update the firmware... I don't know what to do next. ... Help ...Thank you
Yes, you are correct. I actually have two VESCs. They are the FSESC 75100 V2 together in an aluminum PCB... I was able to download the firmware for the 75100 V2 from the GitHub site and upload it to one of the VESCs... When I did that in the CAN-Devices section... changed to make the VESC 75100 V2..."local" ... On the other VESC... In the CAN-devices section... I cannot get the VESC 75100 V2 to be the local... It keeps making the VESC 75 300 R2 the local... I also noticed that your VESC is 75200...and the CAN-Devices section says 75300 R2 is local Is that important? Will it work if one has VESC 75100 V2 local and the other is 75300 R2 local? Thanks
@@steamrollergofoilsurf6418 Usually you don't need to download the firmware from GitHub, it comes with the tool already On the bottom left, select one VESC, update firmware, then select the other VESC and do the same process The [local] will always stay with the one you connected to via USB
YES!...it worked!..success!...thank you... thank you! But now I have a new problem...the BREmote keeps buzzing every few seconds and there is a flashing dot In the lower right hand corner and I don't know why?... I go through the normal startup procedure ...push up to turn it on... The BREmote battery percentage shows... And then the lock ()... push down until it reads PP... Then pull the trigger and release... It shows L9 ...and then alternates between 00 and 0c... That's fine... Everything works. When I pull the trigger the motor spins, that's great... But the BREmote continues to buzz every 3 seconds and a flashing dot In the lower right hand corner... Think I must have messed something up How do I get it to stop buzzing?... And make the dot in the lower right hand corner to stop flashing ? Thanks for all your help!
@@steamrollergofoilsurf6418 Well the 00 and 0c indicate it is reading 0°C and 0V on the battery of the eFoil. And at below 10% eFoil Battery the remote will vibrate to warn the user. Did you change settings in the SHARED CONFIG of the Rx or Tx? How did you connect to the VESC? Also with UART?
Hello Ludwig Brilliant video, well explained. I followed all of the steps and the motor is working as with your video except I see a very strange and concerning behavior. The problem is that when I start it or haven't given throttle for 1-3 minutes, on the initial start of the motor I can hear strange noises from the motor itself, I see Amperage peaks of up to 140Amps and after that the motor spins and revs as yours drawing 10-15A of power. I do believe the 140A shown on the live data as the motor heated up after I tried couple of times changing in the FOC->Advanced->Observer Type (as you mentioned could be a reason for rough start, but it didn't help). The "Current" lower portion of the GUI also shows not a steady A number but rather floating with negative values flashing as well. The values for my motor are also a bit different from yours and I am using a Lipo 12S battery without BMS. Motor resistance (R): 49,0 mΩ Motor Inductance (L): 70,01 µH Motor Inductance 44,56 µH Motor Flux Linkage : 19,019 mWb Current KP: 0,0730 Current KI: 44,97 Observer Gain: 2,76 *I can see that the motor is fighting like it starts backwards and then forwards that is the time there is high current going in. Something with the phases of the motor, but I have no idea which setting would fix that and why one of the phases is in reverse. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
If you have the same motor as I do, try copying the parameters from me and see how it works. Alternatively you can rerun the motor detection. See if that helps
Hi, thanks for the rapid reply! It turned out to be from the remote control that I didn’t set properly and for some reason it was making the motor go forward but somehow send a reverse or brake signal to the vesc. Thanks again and once more great tutorial video, the community is grateful!
Easily one of the best videos walking through this. I have a 75200, 65161 and vx3 and am having the hardest time getting it spinning consistently. I am wanting to use UART so I'm using that cable instead of the old three prong PPM one. The controller works without going through that specific PPM setup as I don't get any feedback when I to into it. Is there anything special when setting up UART?
Thanks :) I'm not really a fan of UART for throttle, so not too familiar with that. In the remote you can usually set the control type in so me menu, check if it is set to "current no reverse [with brake]" Also in "App Settings" -> General, have a look at "APP to Use", set that to UART
@@ludwigbre Perfect. Same Flipsky setup here. Running it on 15S1P (LG Chem E63B pouches) and (sorry to say) a FeRo. We have been testing with HFI, and using the following settings, and it looked / sounded and felt like the motor was running even better. HFI Samples: 16, HFI Start Voltage: 40, HFI Run Voltage: 25, HFI Max Voltage: 25, Senseless ERPM HFI: 1000, HFI Start Samples: 65 Maybe you should have a look into this too?
Hi Ludwig, been checking lots of setup and yours seems to be the one I am heading towards, I have a few small questions, why 120kv vs 100kv? And did you do anything to your motor for waterproofing? And is your prop from propeller king and why 2 wings instead of 3? Thanks again for sharing all your info which is super clear and I love how your battery is so clean and organized. I might have more questions eventually when I get deeper into my build.
@@cedricpoitrask.6718 Hi there, 120kV because it was available, while 100kV was not at the time I bought it, but 100kV would be better for my setup. Yes, I filled the motor with Corrosion X. Yes, Propellerking. For beginners I recommend 3 wind due to more thrust, for advanced 2 wing is more efficient. I have both.
Unglaublich gutes Video, muss man einfach sagen. Ich als Deutscher verstehe dein Englisch einfach prima was bei anderen nie der fall ist😅 einziger punkt den ich gerne bisschen mehr gewusst hätte wäre der openloop part ...habe einen vesc in mein 60v outboarder für mein Schlauchboot gebastelt...leider ist dieser sensorless deswegen habe ich manchmal beim start leichtes struggeln der richtigen richtung kann da ein anderer wert bei openloop helfen
Hi Ludwig, dein Video hat mir sehr geholfen-danke dafür! Leider zeigt mir meine Remote keinen Batterie Status der großen Akkus an, gibt es da noch eine Einstellung im Vsec Menü die ich übersehen habe??
Ich hab die vx3 von flipsky, der Empfänger ist mit 3 Kabeln am esc verbunden, rot/schwarz/weiß, vom Empfänger geht noch ein blaues ab was ich aber nirgendwo unterbringen konnte..
Moin Ludwig, ich suche momentan auch noch einen passendes ESC für den gleichen Motor (ich möchte das gleiche DIY Board von easyfoil wie bei dir) Ich bin auf den BWESC V4 esc gestossen der von easyfoil selbst ist, kann ich den genauso wie im Video programmieren und was würdest du pers. empfehlen (bwescv4 oder ehr den esc im Video)? Danke für das tolle Video und Info!
Hey, dein Video ist absolut super. Es hat mir sehr geholfen, meinen Motor zum Laufen zu bringen. Ich habe aber jetzt ein Problem, bei dem du mir vielleicht behilflich sein kannst. Ich habe einen 13s3p lithium Akku. 48V 100ah Wenn ich mein System mit dem VESC verbinde steht in der Live-Anzeige rechts bei "Battery km range" 100% drann wenn der Akku frisch aufgeladen ist. Wenn ich dann im Wasser Gas gebe und der Motor etwas über 1000W Leistung bringt, sinkt die Battery km range Anzeige sehr schnell auf 0% und das System schaltet sich ab. Wenn ich nach dem Start auf Vollgas gebe, dauert es ca 4 Sekunden bist sich das System abschaltet. Ich verstehe aber nicht warum?
Hi Michael, Hast du die Abschaltspannung korrekt eingestellt? Kannst du parallel mal mit einem Multimeter messen, ob der Akku die Ausgangsspannung auch konstant halten kann?
Mit dem Wert für die Abschaltspannung meinst du den Wert unter Motor Settings -> General -> Voltage -> Bettery Voltage Cutoff End? Wenn ja, dort habe ich mal die Werte aus dem integrierten calculator übernommen. Der Hersteller vom Akku gibt an das es Zellen mit 3,7V sind und der Akku eine Entladespannung von 36,4V hat. Rechnerisch wären es aber: 3,7V × 13Zellen = 48,1V 2,5V x 13Zellen= 32,5V Oder? Ich habe heute mal ein Multimeter mit dran gehangen. Zum Start sagt es eine Spannung von 50V. Bei etwas Gas, sodass der Wert Bettery km range sich hält, sinkt die Spannung auf 48V. Als ich dann mehr Gas gegeben habe ist die Spannung auf 42V abgesunken. Dann war der Wert der battery rabge auf 0% und das Steuergerät hat abgeschaltet.
@@michael6308 Also wenn es 3,7V nominal Zellen sind, dann ist das wie folgt: Ganz voll bei 4,2V/Zelle, ganz leer bei 2,5V/Zelle Dann würde ich den Entladeschutz -> Start auf 36V setzen und -> End auf 32,5V Kann aber auch sein, dass das Pack einfach keine gute Qualität hat und unter Last die Spannung zu schnell einbricht. Hast du genaue Infos zum Pack? Wo gekauft, welchen Querschnitt haben die Anschlussleitungen, welche Zellen sind verbaut?
Den Akku habe ich über Fruggo direkt in China bestellt. 48v 100000mah 1000w 13s3p Xt60 48v Lithium-Ionen-Akku 100ah für 54.6v E-Bike Elektrischer Fahrradroller mit BMS + Ladegerät
Habe deine Werte ausprobiert aber es ändert nichts. Wenn ich mir es unter den Realtime Data anschaue ist soweit alles normal. Wenn ich Gas gebe un etwa 250w Power halte dann sinkt die Spannung von 50V auf 47V. Solange ich das halte bleibt aus die battery km range konstant und es passiert nichts. Sobald ich die Leistung erhöhen sinkt die Spannung rapide und entweder der Cutoff Wert löst aua oder doe battery km range ist auf 0% und die Steuerung schaltet ab.
![#008-2: Building Battery Packs for eFoil [Pt.1: Design]](/img/n.gif)
I've been searching forums for quite literally months trying to find just this. Thank you so so much for taking the time to patiently and thoroughly explain these steps.
As a new builder with a similar setup this was GOLDEN.
THANK YOU!
Thanks a lot, this is great.
Absolutely brilliant video with great explanations. So much better than any of the ones that Flipsky puts on youtube! :) I've got a 75100 ESC and 65111 motor and, as a newbie, really wasn't sure what I was doing. Your video was so helpful, thanks so much! :)
I'm using my motor to power a boat, rather than an efoil, so want forward and reverse. You mentioned you use the "CURRENT NO REVERSE WITH BRAKE" as the control type because, under load in the water, the acceleration / power will be easy to control. Whereas using CURRENT when the motor is out of the water, on the test bench, the control is harder. It pretty much goes straight to full throttle I guess on the bench like mine did. So I'm using DUTY CYCLE at the moment, out of the water, purely so I can be sure that the acceleration is smooth. Would you advise switching it back to CURRENT once in the water or will DUTY CYCLE be ok for my slow electric boat?
Thanks for the feedback!
For eFoil that is a long discussion if current or duty is better - basically thats down to individual preferences.
For your boat, both current and duty will be fine, you can try changing and see how it behaves.
Probably current will be more "forseeable" in terms of when keeping the throttle constant getting the same range out of the batteries.
The best explanation! Thank you!
I am 14 a complete newbee i have 2 65111 motors and two 75100 vescs is the setup the same? Are my valves different?
Please reply!!!!
I have the same motor and 75 300 Tampa Vesc as you. I’m having a problem when I press the gas to around 90% and then the motor shuts off. Then I let go of the throttle and press it again and the motor will start working again. It works perfectly throughout the throttle range but if I get to 90% or higher then the motor cuts off and I have to let go of the gas and reapply the gas to make the motor turn again. how do I make the motor stop cutting out when I press the throttle to 90% or higher? What do you think the problem could be?
@@silverminemotors783 Try increasing the absolute max motor current
Thank you very much. That fixed my problem. And thank you for making this video. It really helps
Hi Ludwig, many thanks for your didactic video!
I follow step by step your istructions (I have a different motor, FS 7070, and I have correct the value) but I have a problem, I am not able to adjust the rpm, using the trigger throttle, my motor goes from 0% to 100% immediately. Pratically the trigger is only an on/off input.
Have you any suggestions?
Many many tks
Did you set to Duty Cycle or Current Control?
In current control this behavior is normal as long as the motor is not loaded (in the water)
@@ludwigbre Sincerely... I don't know. Next week I'll check the values (now I know what I must check, many tks) and I'll try to put the motor in water to see if something change.
Many many thanks for replay
Hi Ludwig
I have tested the motor in the water with impeller and the throttle work well, the problem was only that there was not the load.....I have become crazy for 2 days!
Many tks!
hello, what board is the one used is it inflatable? is your 75200 esc without watercooling? how does it perform because mine heats up very fast with little current. thank you
Hey, the board is called "Easyfoil"
The 75200 is mounted to the 5mm thick aluminum plate of the Easyfoil, even with 6kW power it only gets to 50°C
Hi tutorial is great so far!... Thank you for posting it...
I have follow your tutorial all the way to the part where you do the... Setup Input... Then I have a problem...
It scans the CAN-bus... A window pops up and it says...
"All VESCs must have the latest firmware to perform this operation."
Your VESC (or one of the VESCs on the CAN-bus) has old firmware, and needs to be updated. After that, the motor configuration has to be done again
I thought we just did update the firmware... I don't know what to do next. ... Help ...Thank you
Do you in fact have multiple VESCs? Or just one?
Yes, you are correct. I actually have two VESCs. They are the FSESC 75100 V2 together in an aluminum PCB...
I was able to download the firmware for the 75100 V2 from the GitHub site and upload it to one of the VESCs...
When I did that in the CAN-Devices section... changed to make the VESC 75100 V2..."local" ...
On the other VESC... In the CAN-devices section... I cannot get the VESC 75100 V2 to be the local... It keeps making the VESC 75 300 R2 the local...
I also noticed that your VESC is 75200...and the CAN-Devices section says 75300 R2 is local
Is that important? Will it work if one has VESC 75100 V2 local and the other is 75300 R2 local?
Thanks
@@steamrollergofoilsurf6418 Usually you don't need to download the firmware from GitHub, it comes with the tool already
On the bottom left, select one VESC, update firmware, then select the other VESC and do the same process
The [local] will always stay with the one you connected to via USB
YES!...it worked!..success!...thank you... thank you!
But now I have a new problem...the BREmote keeps buzzing every few seconds and there is a flashing dot In the lower right hand corner and I don't know why?...
I go through the normal startup procedure ...push up to turn it on... The BREmote battery percentage shows... And then the lock ()...
push down until it reads PP...
Then pull the trigger and release... It shows L9 ...and then alternates between 00 and 0c... That's fine... Everything works. When I pull the trigger the motor spins, that's great...
But the BREmote continues to buzz every 3 seconds and a flashing dot In the lower right hand corner... Think I must have messed something up
How do I get it to stop buzzing?... And make the dot in the lower right hand corner to stop flashing ?
Thanks for all your help!
@@steamrollergofoilsurf6418 Well the 00 and 0c indicate it is reading 0°C and 0V on the battery of the eFoil. And at below 10% eFoil Battery the remote will vibrate to warn the user.
Did you change settings in the SHARED CONFIG of the Rx or Tx?
How did you connect to the VESC? Also with UART?
Hello Ludwig
Brilliant video, well explained. I followed all of the steps and the motor is working as with your video except I see a very strange and concerning behavior.
The problem is that when I start it or haven't given throttle for 1-3 minutes, on the initial start of the motor I can hear strange noises from the motor itself, I see Amperage peaks of up to 140Amps and after that the motor spins and revs as yours drawing 10-15A of power. I do believe the 140A shown on the live data as the motor heated up after I tried couple of times changing in the FOC->Advanced->Observer Type (as you mentioned could be a reason for rough start, but it didn't help).
The "Current" lower portion of the GUI also shows not a steady A number but rather floating with negative values flashing as well.
The values for my motor are also a bit different from yours and I am using a Lipo 12S battery without BMS.
Motor resistance (R): 49,0 mΩ
Motor Inductance (L): 70,01 µH
Motor Inductance 44,56 µH
Motor Flux Linkage : 19,019 mWb
Current KP: 0,0730
Current KI: 44,97
Observer Gain: 2,76
*I can see that the motor is fighting like it starts backwards and then forwards that is the time there is high current going in. Something with the phases of the motor, but I have no idea which setting would fix that and why one of the phases is in reverse.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
If you have the same motor as I do, try copying the parameters from me and see how it works. Alternatively you can rerun the motor detection. See if that helps
Hi, thanks for the rapid reply! It turned out to be from the remote control that I didn’t set properly and for some reason it was making the motor go forward but somehow send a reverse or brake signal to the vesc. Thanks again and once more great tutorial video, the community is grateful!
Easily one of the best videos walking through this. I have a 75200, 65161 and vx3 and am having the hardest time getting it spinning consistently. I am wanting to use UART so I'm using that cable instead of the old three prong PPM one. The controller works without going through that specific PPM setup as I don't get any feedback when I to into it. Is there anything special when setting up UART?
Thanks :)
I'm not really a fan of UART for throttle, so not too familiar with that. In the remote you can usually set the control type in so me menu, check if it is set to "current no reverse [with brake]"
Also in "App Settings" -> General, have a look at "APP to Use", set that to UART
Hi Ludwig,
Are your "motor" settings for a Flipsky 65161 100 or 120kv version?
In the video I show with 120kV
@@ludwigbre Perfect. Same Flipsky setup here. Running it on 15S1P (LG Chem E63B pouches) and (sorry to say) a FeRo.
We have been testing with HFI, and using the following settings, and it looked / sounded and felt like the motor was running even better.
HFI Samples: 16, HFI Start Voltage: 40, HFI Run Voltage: 25, HFI Max Voltage: 25, Senseless ERPM HFI: 1000, HFI Start Samples: 65
Maybe you should have a look into this too?
Hi Ludwig, been checking lots of setup and yours seems to be the one I am heading towards, I have a few small questions, why 120kv vs 100kv? And did you do anything to your motor for waterproofing? And is your prop from propeller king and why 2 wings instead of 3? Thanks again for sharing all your info which is super clear and I love how your battery is so clean and organized. I might have more questions eventually when I get deeper into my build.
@@cedricpoitrask.6718
Hi there,
120kV because it was available, while 100kV was not at the time I bought it, but 100kV would be better for my setup.
Yes, I filled the motor with Corrosion X.
Yes, Propellerking. For beginners I recommend 3 wind due to more thrust, for advanced 2 wing is more efficient. I have both.
Unglaublich gutes Video, muss man einfach sagen. Ich als Deutscher verstehe dein Englisch einfach prima was bei anderen nie der fall ist😅 einziger punkt den ich gerne bisschen mehr gewusst hätte wäre der openloop part ...habe einen vesc in mein 60v outboarder für mein Schlauchboot gebastelt...leider ist dieser sensorless deswegen habe ich manchmal beim start leichtes struggeln der richtigen richtung kann da ein anderer wert bei openloop helfen
Hi Ludwig, dein Video hat mir sehr geholfen-danke dafür! Leider zeigt mir meine Remote keinen Batterie Status der großen Akkus an, gibt es da noch eine Einstellung im Vsec Menü die ich übersehen habe??
@@BennyHesselink Hey, welche Remote hast du denn? Und wie ist diese mit dem VESC verbunden?
Ich hab die vx3 von flipsky, der Empfänger ist mit 3 Kabeln am esc verbunden, rot/schwarz/weiß, vom Empfänger geht noch ein blaues ab was ich aber nirgendwo unterbringen konnte..
@@BennyHesselink die VX3 musst du für Akkuspannung mit UART verbinden, da gibt's in diversen Foren schon viel Info zu
Lieben dank für deine schnelle Antwort!!
Moin Ludwig, ich suche momentan auch noch einen passendes ESC für den gleichen Motor (ich möchte das gleiche DIY Board von easyfoil wie bei dir) Ich bin auf den BWESC V4 esc gestossen der von easyfoil selbst ist, kann ich den genauso wie im Video programmieren und was würdest du pers. empfehlen (bwescv4 oder ehr den esc im Video)? Danke für das tolle Video und Info!
Hey,
dein Video ist absolut super. Es hat mir sehr geholfen, meinen Motor zum Laufen zu bringen.
Ich habe aber jetzt ein Problem, bei dem du mir vielleicht behilflich sein kannst.
Ich habe einen 13s3p lithium Akku.
48V 100ah
Wenn ich mein System mit dem VESC verbinde steht in der Live-Anzeige rechts bei "Battery km range" 100% drann wenn der Akku frisch aufgeladen ist.
Wenn ich dann im Wasser Gas gebe und der Motor etwas über 1000W Leistung bringt, sinkt die Battery km range Anzeige sehr schnell auf 0% und das System schaltet sich ab.
Wenn ich nach dem Start auf Vollgas gebe, dauert es ca 4 Sekunden bist sich das System abschaltet.
Ich verstehe aber nicht warum?
Hi Michael,
Hast du die Abschaltspannung korrekt eingestellt? Kannst du parallel mal mit einem Multimeter messen, ob der Akku die Ausgangsspannung auch konstant halten kann?
Mit dem Wert für die Abschaltspannung meinst du den Wert unter Motor Settings -> General -> Voltage -> Bettery Voltage Cutoff End?
Wenn ja, dort habe ich mal die Werte aus dem integrierten calculator übernommen.
Der Hersteller vom Akku gibt an das es Zellen mit 3,7V sind und der Akku eine Entladespannung von 36,4V hat.
Rechnerisch wären es aber:
3,7V × 13Zellen = 48,1V
2,5V x 13Zellen= 32,5V
Oder?
Ich habe heute mal ein Multimeter mit dran gehangen.
Zum Start sagt es eine Spannung von 50V.
Bei etwas Gas, sodass der Wert Bettery km range sich hält, sinkt die Spannung auf 48V.
Als ich dann mehr Gas gegeben habe ist die Spannung auf 42V abgesunken.
Dann war der Wert der battery rabge auf 0% und das Steuergerät hat abgeschaltet.
@@michael6308 Also wenn es 3,7V nominal Zellen sind, dann ist das wie folgt: Ganz voll bei 4,2V/Zelle, ganz leer bei 2,5V/Zelle
Dann würde ich den Entladeschutz -> Start auf 36V setzen und -> End auf 32,5V
Kann aber auch sein, dass das Pack einfach keine gute Qualität hat und unter Last die Spannung zu schnell einbricht. Hast du genaue Infos zum Pack? Wo gekauft, welchen Querschnitt haben die Anschlussleitungen, welche Zellen sind verbaut?
Den Akku habe ich über Fruggo direkt in China bestellt.
48v 100000mah 1000w 13s3p Xt60 48v Lithium-Ionen-Akku 100ah für 54.6v E-Bike Elektrischer Fahrradroller mit BMS + Ladegerät
Habe deine Werte ausprobiert aber es ändert nichts.
Wenn ich mir es unter den Realtime Data anschaue ist soweit alles normal.
Wenn ich Gas gebe un etwa 250w Power halte dann sinkt die Spannung von 50V auf 47V.
Solange ich das halte bleibt aus die battery km range konstant und es passiert nichts.
Sobald ich die Leistung erhöhen sinkt die Spannung rapide und entweder der Cutoff Wert löst aua oder doe battery km range ist auf 0% und die Steuerung schaltet ab.