I bought this nail gun as we were planning to renew all the fencing in our back garden. As this involved 19 double slatted fence panels, 10 of which needed to be cut down in size, we knew there would be a need for a great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt deal of re-stapling the wooden slats to the wooden framework. Each alteration required the re-stapling of 62 wooden slats with double staples. Prior to starting the work we ordered sufficient additional staples as per the instructions with the gun.The gun performed fantastically throughout the entire project with no jams of misfires. The adjustable power was excellent allowing the staples to be fired into the 8mm slats to the correct depth. For the price paid this was a bargain and it proved itself to be so reliable and versatile making an arduous task much quicker and professional. I cannot recommend this product highly enough and it will be used on many other projects in the future.
Nice job, and nice vid. I have only used nail er rs once maybe 40 years+ ago. Back then it was all solid hardwood flooring. Now for many years with one exception it has all been laminate, some glue down, but mostly free floating. I have another that should be coming up in the near future.
Finally, a new episode! (as if you could make one everyday). Thank you Brent, you're an excellent teacher and I've learned a lot from you. I'll be cranking out a dining room butcher block tabletop in the driveway with what I've learned from you and your channel in about 10 minutes.... (bet you could guess what's holding me up after breakfast). Keep up the awesome work!
Love hearing these types of comments Michael. So glad my videos help Michael and thanks so much for sharing. Ya its pretty hard to upload daily DIY videos or at least my type of DIY videos haha.
Good video. Your point about starting at the stair nose is spot on. I also installed engineered flooring in our house, about 1200 sq ft of it. Considering I'd never done anything like this before it took some time. Lot of furniture moving! The house had a several inch drop towards the front door that I had to use self leveling concrete on so in that area I had to float it. No issues mixing floating and nailing even 7 years later. I also had to undercut the fireplace which was very dusty, definitely not my favorite part. I love our floors, they are maple 4", 6" and 8" width with varying lengths from 2ft to 8 feet. Stunningly beautiful. But if I had to do it all again I'd have gone with something a bit more hard on the veneer like oak as the maple is very easy to ding and dent.
I tried to go look for that Aria Lite vent cover and each one is between $60-80$ 😭😭. Adding your own flooring makes it look gorgeous too. Smh. As always though Brent, you are a bad ass and a super pro teacher showing and explaining the process PLUS giving us your tips and tricks 👌🏻
hello, and thank you for this helpful video. I'm thinking of installing engineered hardwood on my 2nd story in my Florida home. Should I use an underlayment? I am nailing to wood subfloor
Thank you for this video, it's very informative. We are getting ready to install 6.5" wide engineered wood on our 2nd floor with plywood subfloor but are getting conflicting information. One floor vendor states we need to us Bostik Vapor Lock to glue the boards down, and another says we can install the Aqua-Bar underlayment and nail (staple) the wood down. We are in Southern California, from your experience is one method better than the other? Thanks again!
Love the Aria vents but any reason you didn't go for the zero clearance "pro" version since you were replacing the floors anyway? Takes a bit more time to get the floor cuts perfect but looks a bit nicer. Good job either way.
How do you fix lil gaps or black lines on a but end joint. I have a board where only half the joint has a black line and it’s bothering me. Should I hammer it in with a mallet and hope the click mechanism works?
Australian Select Timber makes an Engineered T & G Timber floor that I am intending to use. They say to not use nails or staples, just glue the join, otherwise you will void the warranty. It is a called a floating floor. What are your thoughts on this type of install?
A floating floor, or full glue down, are the only two options if installing over concrete. Also, 3/4" solid-wood flooring is not permitted below grade. Engineered flooring is the correct option for wood flooring. Otherwise, if the floor is being laid over a wood sub-floor, then nailing or stapling is preferential. Usually, for a floating floor, the manufacturer recommends placing the wood glue along the groove. However, I find that running the glue along the tongue is a lot faster, and easier, and it holds up just fine. Just make sure to wipe of any excess glue with a damp rag as you go. You won't get it off if it dries.
I did a floating floor using glue in the groves. It turned out nicely and the underlayment I used was on the expensive side. I took a long time. I was hoping to do an install on OSB using this staple method. I never heard anything about voiding the warranty. I have to do more research.
Dont agree that the pneumatic nailer/stapler is the "best" tool for the job. We prefer a manual floor nailer, requires 2 decent blows to drive a brad and forces the boards as tight as possible. We always allow 10mm(3/8") of expansion gap around the perimeter even for engineerd. I've seen it move quite a lot, all depends what material the manufacturer has to hand for the engineerd portion of the board. It sometimes contains bamboo which has a tenancy to move a lot, composite decking also contains bamboo now
Thanks so much for the input Jamie. I haven’t used all the nailers out there but I’ll have to keep that in mind and try out the nailer you suggested. Thanks so much for watching and hope you enjoyed the video.
Certainly insufficient expansion gaps along the walls, notwithstanding that this is an engineered product. Expansion gap recommendation is at least the thickness as the plank being installed. In reality, I find that this can be problematic as most baseboard is not deep enough to cover the gap. I compromise by placing 3/8" spacers around the entire perimeter basically giving me 3/4" expansion side to side. Nailing should be 3-5" from board ends and 10" along the boards.
Anyone can install a floor but you have to make sure it's right there are parameters with moisture levels for warranty purposes and from what I see what he installed is too tight, I have been installing the flooring everyday for the last 20 years and I can tell you I would not want this guy working in my house
What a Shame the flooring was installed in the wrong direction, never in the direction of the floor joist and always across joist with nail down flooring.
Before you comment on something, you obviously know nothing about. You should do some research. It's engineered flooring, not the same as a true hardwood. Therefore it almost acts as a floating floor u can install it either way
I am glad to hear that you have found this book to be very informative and helpful for your woodworking project ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO It sounds like you are well prepared and confident to build furniture for your house. I commend you and your friend for your enthusiasm and willingness to learn new things from this book. I hope you enjoy your woodworking journey and create some beautiful pieces.
I bought this nail gun as we were planning to renew all the fencing in our back garden. As this involved 19 double slatted fence panels, 10 of which needed to be cut down in size, we knew there would be a need for a great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt deal of re-stapling the wooden slats to the wooden framework. Each alteration required the re-stapling of 62 wooden slats with double staples. Prior to starting the work we ordered sufficient additional staples as per the instructions with the gun.The gun performed fantastically throughout the entire project with no jams of misfires. The adjustable power was excellent allowing the staples to be fired into the 8mm slats to the correct depth. For the price paid this was a bargain and it proved itself to be so reliable and versatile making an arduous task much quicker and professional. I cannot recommend this product highly enough and it will be used on many other projects in the future.
Amazing job Brent! Like Michael said before me, I have been missing your videos!!
Looking forward to next week!!
That vent is a great idea looks fantastic, love your videos, GOD BLESS YOU
Great video, one of the most cohesive I've watched. Great job
Nice job, and nice vid. I have only used nail er rs once maybe 40 years+ ago. Back then it was all solid hardwood flooring.
Now for many years with one exception it has all been laminate, some glue down, but mostly free floating.
I have another that should be coming up in the near future.
WOW! Beautifully installed. Impeccable attention to the fine details that make this floor look amazing!
Thanks so much for watching Lisa as always. Yes I love how this project turned out for sure :)
Amazing!
This is very good video,you have shared all details,for the DIY that’s what we need,thank very much.😁
Love the look and feel of hardwood, beautiful. Pry bars are a must.
Definitely a must haha! Thanks for watching Ann
Matching the wood grain for vent decoration was awesome.
Finally, a new episode! (as if you could make one everyday). Thank you Brent, you're an excellent teacher and I've learned a lot from you. I'll be cranking out a dining room butcher block tabletop in the driveway with what I've learned from you and your channel in about 10 minutes.... (bet you could guess what's holding me up after breakfast). Keep up the awesome work!
Love hearing these types of comments Michael. So glad my videos help Michael and thanks so much for sharing. Ya its pretty hard to upload daily DIY videos or at least my type of DIY videos haha.
very detailed video on hardwood installation. Thank You
Good video. Your point about starting at the stair nose is spot on. I also installed engineered flooring in our house, about 1200 sq ft of it. Considering I'd never done anything like this before it took some time. Lot of furniture moving! The house had a several inch drop towards the front door that I had to use self leveling concrete on so in that area I had to float it. No issues mixing floating and nailing even 7 years later. I also had to undercut the fireplace which was very dusty, definitely not my favorite part. I love our floors, they are maple 4", 6" and 8" width with varying lengths from 2ft to 8 feet. Stunningly beautiful. But if I had to do it all again I'd have gone with something a bit more hard on the veneer like oak as the maple is very easy to ding and dent.
Great to hear you took it on your self Dirk. Sounds like you did a great job and good point about maple and oak. Thanks for watching.
Very nice job!
Great video!
Wish you could come do my floors in nyc. Great video. Thanks.
I like your video very much. Thank you.
Awesome. Thank you so much.
Thanks so much for watching.
great video! greetings from esteban
Thanks so much for watching Esteban.
I tried to go look for that Aria Lite vent cover and each one is between $60-80$ 😭😭. Adding your own flooring makes it look gorgeous too. Smh.
As always though Brent, you are a bad ass and a super pro teacher showing and explaining the process PLUS giving us your tips and tricks 👌🏻
WHY HELLO THERE!!! love your vids :)
Thanks so much and keep up the great restoration work.
hello, and thank you for this helpful video. I'm thinking of installing engineered hardwood on my 2nd story in my Florida home. Should I use an underlayment? I am nailing to wood subfloor
Thank you for this video, it's very informative. We are getting ready to install 6.5" wide engineered wood on our 2nd floor with plywood subfloor but are getting conflicting information. One floor vendor states we need to us Bostik Vapor Lock to glue the boards down, and another says we can install the Aqua-Bar underlayment and nail (staple) the wood down. We are in Southern California, from your experience is one method better than the other?
Thanks again!
What did you do in that closet where the board would need to be installed "backwards"? Glue down like you did in the area to the right of the stairs?
Love the Aria vents but any reason you didn't go for the zero clearance "pro" version since you were replacing the floors anyway? Takes a bit more time to get the floor cuts perfect but looks a bit nicer. Good job either way.
How do you fix lil gaps or black lines on a but end joint. I have a board where only half the joint has a black line and it’s bothering me. Should I hammer it in with a mallet and hope the click mechanism works?
What is the width on the staples you are using? Will 1-½ × ¼ 18 gauge work as well on 3" engineered hardwood? Thanks.
Why no 6 inch distance from board end to the board end in the row below at 15:57?
Is this Teka Antique Canyon? Thanks
i liked the video''
Thanks for warching
@@BYOTools you well come I actually liked your channel and I learn from it bro i appreciate you have a good 1😄
"Every other 6 inches" sounds like a fancy way of saying every foot
Australian Select Timber makes an Engineered T & G Timber floor that I am intending to use. They say to not use nails or staples, just glue the join, otherwise you will void the warranty. It is a called a floating floor. What are your thoughts on this type of install?
A floating floor, or full glue down, are the only two options if installing over concrete. Also, 3/4" solid-wood flooring is not permitted below grade. Engineered flooring is the correct option for wood flooring. Otherwise, if the floor is being laid over a wood sub-floor, then nailing or stapling is preferential. Usually, for a floating floor, the manufacturer recommends placing the wood glue along the groove. However, I find that running the glue along the tongue is a lot faster, and easier, and it holds up just fine. Just make sure to wipe of any excess glue with a damp rag as you go. You won't get it off if it dries.
I did a floating floor using glue in the groves. It turned out nicely and the underlayment I used was on the expensive side. I took a long time. I was hoping to do an install on OSB using this staple method. I never heard anything about voiding the warranty. I have to do more research.
What is the name and model number for this floor ?
Is 5% enough for wastage?
Also bring a 35lb dumbbell....
Dont agree that the pneumatic nailer/stapler is the "best" tool for the job. We prefer a manual floor nailer, requires 2 decent blows to drive a brad and forces the boards as tight as possible. We always allow 10mm(3/8") of expansion gap around the perimeter even for engineerd. I've seen it move quite a lot, all depends what material the manufacturer has to hand for the engineerd portion of the board. It sometimes contains bamboo which has a tenancy to move a lot, composite decking also contains bamboo now
Thanks so much for the input Jamie. I haven’t used all the nailers out there but I’ll have to keep that in mind and try out the nailer you suggested. Thanks so much for watching and hope you enjoyed the video.
@@BYOTools hey, 👋 we all do things differently theres no right or wrong thats just how we prefer to do it. Be boring if we were all the same 👍
Certainly insufficient expansion gaps along the walls, notwithstanding that this is an engineered product. Expansion gap recommendation is at least the thickness as the plank being installed. In reality, I find that this can be problematic as most baseboard is not deep enough to cover the gap. I compromise by placing 3/8" spacers around the entire perimeter basically giving me 3/4" expansion side to side. Nailing should be 3-5" from board ends and 10" along the boards.
Anyone can install a floor but you have to make sure it's right there are parameters with moisture levels for warranty purposes and from what I see what he installed is too tight, I have been installing the flooring everyday for the last 20 years and I can tell you I would not want this guy working in my house
why are you whispering?
I’m whispering?! When? Haha. Thanks for warching Cheryl
Sorry, I can't take listening to this guy. Moving on.
What a Shame the flooring was installed in the wrong direction, never in the direction of the floor joist and always across joist with nail down flooring.
Before you comment on something, you obviously know nothing about. You should do some research. It's engineered flooring, not the same as a true hardwood. Therefore it almost acts as a floating floor u can install it either way
I am glad to hear that you have found this book to be very informative and helpful for your woodworking project ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO It sounds like you are well prepared and confident to build furniture for your house. I commend you and your friend for your enthusiasm and willingness to learn new things from this book. I hope you enjoy your woodworking journey and create some beautiful pieces.