Your videos have, rekindle my love of Triang trains. Watching trains go around your superb layout has brought out the ten year old kid within me. Now I'm going to setup my own Triang railway. Looking forward to your next really instructive video. Thank you!
Thank you, Pete, A great toy she's been around the track a few times I think. Very basic design for the motor bogie but reliable. She also sits very level on the track, making good running over the points and those very bumpy super 4 diamond crossings. Glad you enjoyed the video. And thanks again for taking the time to comment. Oscar
Than you Oscar for your excellent running sessions ,I find that watching your stock running always reminds me of my superb Christmas passed & living in anticipation of what is for my railway under the tree .. Have a happy Christmas & Great & safe new year .
What an amazing video Oscar, absolutely love the Diesel Railcar unit, I have a couple of the newer 1980`s models with the ringfield motors. Regards Kev
Good evening Kev. They are great models with some subtle variations over the years. I think they are a really terrific model also. Thanks for watching. Oscar
Thanks Stewart, they are not the most glamorous of models! But I think Tri-ang and then Hornby sold a lot of them over the years. And on the real railways, they brought about a massive change to the way railways were run and in turn, gave the traveling public more choices and improved comfort. Oscar
Once more, very nice. I don't have a turntable but over the years i have collected literally piles of super 4 and series 3 track and points and cross overs; the main problem for me is the fish-plates or joiners. They're all badly corroded and replacements difficult to get hold of. I've thought about soldering the track together but stainless steel is difficult to solder. Anyway, i really enjoy your work; please keep it up. Thanks.
Good morning John, the corrosion can be quite bad on the fish plates. It's odd how some do corrode and some don't even when two pieces of track stored together right next to each other one will go and the other not. I think different materials or grades of materials must have been used. I don't know of any replacements at present, but it would be great if someone could manufacture them. Perhaps a simplified vision just a joiner that could be pushed on could work very well. Many thanks for watching. Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Thanks Oscar; right now i'm in the process of building a new layout; I have four circuits planned, and up-line and down-line with sidings of modern track (code 100) and the other will have an up-line and down-line of Super 4 Track on which I can run my old Triang collection which i value very much. That's why I'm a fan of your site. Best wishes, John
It was a good idea to fit the power bogie in the guards compartment where it is partly hidden through the windows It’s nice that the power bogie unit has a representation of the actual engine on the underside moulding too
Wow , thanks again Oscar for the information you supplied re-the green DMU cars. I have aquired 3 of these sets now and have also bought some more centre carriages (1 with the seating and 1 without) so I will eventually run 1 x 4 car set and 2 x 2 car sets or 2 x 3 car sets an 1 x 2 car sets. Brilliant technology's for back then an well before planned obsolescence of the late 1960 and early 1970's (or thats what happened here in australia at least). And the moving bits were mostly made of steel and not plastic like they nealry all are now. Also a big thankyou for showing us the video of the turntable and how it all works as I have watched this video before about the dmu's but must have fell asleep during this part (the turntable part) of the video the last time I watched it. I was always wondering about how they operate as in power wise and how they got there power to,turn qnd connect to what track it is going to and from etc. I am intending to hopefully get a couple of them as i have not got any of them as of yet as they are wanting asrastronomical prices for them here in Australia and now with the high cost of the postage and all the taxes and import duties to get items here in Australia is a bit over the top. Anyhoo thanks again mate for another great informative video as it really helps us avid collectors and people out where modeling is concerned. Cheers from John in Australia.
Good evening John, sounds like you have a growing collection, I think these DUM models are great today but they must have quite special at the time when first on sale. Glad you found the bit about the turntable of interest. Its a real shame about the rising cost of postage and taxes and import duties every where seem to be becoming more complicated. Thanks again take care. Oscar
Thank you again Oscar, that was most informative. My rail car set has the seating and destination boards for Bury. I purchased two centre cars in 2016, a Tri-ang / Hornby one which had been repainted by hand (a bit of a mess) and a genuine Tri-ang one but no seating in it. It is one set that I would dearly love to run on code 100 track but cannot. Looking forward to what you bring us next week. Cheers, David.
Hi, David great to hear you have one of these sets. Is it just the drive wheels that prevent it from running on code 100. As sometimes the rest of the plastic wheels seem to run well on code 100. Especially If this is a later 60s model the wheel profiles got a little finer! The DMU with the illuminated head code (75-77) Had smooth wheels finer wheels. I think these are the same as used on the last version of the Blue Pullman It may be worth finding a set of these drive wheels to try. Thanks again for watching and taking the time comment. Oscar
Thank you for your reply Oscar. I did not know the answer to your question so I have been down to the layout and tested the coaches and dummies from that set and my Tri-ang 2BIL and I'm afraid it's all of them that are bouncing over the sleepers but I would get the new drive wheels for both sets if I knew where to look. Any pointers? Cheers, David.
That's a shame. The part number is X117 keep a look out on eBay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triang-Hornby-DMU-Pullman-Motor-bogie-smooth-wheels-00-Gauge-/253381831322 there's a whole bogie with the smooth wheels just ended and a single set axel available at present. I think this part number covers both ribbed and smooth wheels so check the pictures on ebay. Johns Amazing Trains (chambs123) used to sell turned down wheelsets for all the Tri-ang Diesels. I'm not sure if he still does. These people supply newly made Drive wheelsets that will run on code 100 www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/CAT007#TDCP This just leaves the all the plastic wheels which could be replaced with new Hornby or smaller coach wheels. Johns Amazing Trains has an excellent video showing his method of conversion to pinpoint axels for his older Tri-ang coaching stock. Oscar
David Atkins / Oscar; it may help you to know that I have recently had my Triang EMU motor bogie converted to run on code 100 Peco track by ‘Scalespeed’ at Leigh on Solent, as advertised in the model press. It has had the wheel flanges reduced, as far as practical and with a full service runs as well as I remember when purchased new in I think 1959. My understanding is that a similar conversion is available for the DMU power bogie. Usual disclaimer - Just a very satisfied customer.
Good one Oscar. Like the turntable explanation. I had an R408U from 1973 but stupidly replaced it with the spinning disc thing in 1978 which is a much poorer and cheap design. Eventually secured a second hand R408U (with converter tracks to System 6) last year. She is installed on layout but not too happy with it as there is a curve leading directly onto the turntable causing most of my later big locos to derail, so looking at a different configuration to prevent this. It’s a great unit though.
Thank you Russell, glad you liked it. The R408U is a great turntable. It was a neat idea they had marketing it with the converter tracks. I think your right those later big locomotives would be happier with there wheels all inline before they negotiate the break in the track onto the bridge. It's always juggling act trying to fit these things in they take up so much space. And they never made a curved track section to run the outlet tracks parallel! Oscar
Oscar Paisley Cheers Oscar . Yes because mine has converter tracks to System 6 I can use R643 curve , so I can get the tracks parallel . I noted that you must have made an adjustment in some way
That was a very nice video as I'm just digging my father's railway stuff out of the r157 with 3 carriages and it's the first triang I've seen with 4 smooth wheels I just took 18 locos they've all got grip wheels which I find are so much better when did they start putting smooth wheels on on them still a nice video
RE: The R.408 & R.408U Turntables. It's worth noting this... If, for any reason, the bridge is removed from the turntable base, it is essential to line up the "A" mark on the main drive gear and the "A" mark on the underside of the Bridge before attempting to re-fit the bridge. Failure to do this can lead to the drive gear being 'out of phase' with the gear track on the base, potentially causing the gear to jam, potentially causing damage. (As an aside, the maroon gears from the earlier R.408 turntable seem to be more fragile than the later black gears used for the R.408U.) The main drive gear has the teeth so arranged that, on encountering the plastic sections in alignment with the entry and exit tracks, the motor base moves slightly in, against the spring pressure, towards the centre, allowing the smooth part of the main drive gear to rotate, bearing on the plastic section. Thus the motor can continue to operate, but the turntable doesn't move. This dwell gives time for the operator to cut the power, while the turntable is aligned with the entry and/ or exit tracks. If the power is left on, then the motor base returns to the operating position, the full depth teeth engage with the teeth of the base gear track, and the turntable résumés it's rotation. (An elegant solution to the alignment problem. 🙂) When refitting the bridge, the "A" mark on the underside of the bridge should be aligned with the "A" mark on the underside of the base. The motor end of the bridge should be fitted in, with the exit rails of position "A" over the edge of the bridge. The other end should then be slid into position, lining up the hole for the centre pivot screw, with the edge of the bridge under the entry rail ends. Information from the instructions supplied with the motorising kit to convert the R.407 hand operated turntable to the R.408 motorised version. This kit included the wired (with contacts) motor, base & gears, brass rings for the centre with wiring fitted, Wiring from the power source to the operating switch, the operating switch itself, and the wires from the switch to the turntable base input. ᚱᚢᚠᚠᚾᚢᛏ × ᛏᚼᚬᚱᛋᛏᚬᚾ 🐉🙋🏼♀️😉
Hi Ruffnut Thorston, thanks for watching and taking the time to share this great information it's very much appreciated. Whilst I have a Tri-ang Railways boxed X.319 turntable conversion kit its sadly missing its instruction sheet. Take care. Oscar
Very nice attention to detail on the turntable explanation. Also, nice 3 car rail diesel. Does she give you any power pickup issues over points? Thank you as always for the video.
Hi, thank you Andrew. she seems pretty good just the occasional stutter. But will mostly run very slow over the point. And just a slight hesitation on the diamond crossing! But then almost everything doses on the diamond crossings. Oscar
R334 is a rare bird. When did the point number indicators come in? 1970's? Loved seeing all the variants of the DMU over the years, most informative -well done and thanks Oscar
Thanks chorlton4 the DMU is a great model but I am not sure about the point number indicators. The DMU with the illuminated head code came along in 1975. Oscar
excellent explanation of the turntable, very good video production well done. Just one query: how are the feeds to the actual bridge rails done? do the copper contacts go through the bridge and have pressure contact under the rails? Cheers
Good morning muir8009 glad you enjoyed the video. As far as I can see the copper contacts are held in place with what looks like a steel clip which passes through the bridge to clip onto the steel rails holding both the copper contacts and rails in place whilst supplying the feed to the bridge rails. This can be seen in the video around 09:53-10:27 along with the brass strips that are used to provide feed between the inlet rails and the brass contacts which the bridge contacts line up with, these appear to be held in place by a rivet type joint which allows the feed to pass from rail to contact whilst hold each item in place. Many thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Oscar
Great video as always Oscar, very neat explanation of th eturntable, but how did the track line up accurately, what made it stop at exactly the right place each time?
Thanks Steve. I was just covering the power distribution in this video. The stops are controlled by a neat system of gears which provide a brief stop at each track outlet. Oscar
So yours does not have seats mine has seats and a painted Driver and drivers cab! Check out my video Oscar is you wish to see what I mean! - Muffin Man (Sam)
Thanks for watching Sam. No mine does not have seats. I think early on when they were released Tri-ang didn't put seats in them. Models released before 1961 had no seats from what I have read. Have watched your video, keep up the good work, you seem to have a fine collection of locomotives. Early Tri-ang models had really deep wheel flanges which may be causing your railcar to cut out on the point work. Oscar
Your videos have, rekindle my love of Triang trains. Watching trains go around your superb layout has brought out the ten year old kid within me. Now I'm going to setup my own Triang railway. Looking forward to your next really instructive video. Thank you!
Glad it's inspired you to create a layout. I have had the best fun working with these older items.
Thanks for watching.
Oscar
Very nice watching this Oscar , great how this DMU is still running after all that time . Nice demo showing the turntable ......Peter
Thank you, Pete, A great toy she's been around the track a few times I think. Very basic design for the motor bogie but reliable. She also sits very level on the track, making good running over the points and those very bumpy super 4 diamond crossings. Glad you enjoyed the video. And thanks again for taking the time to comment. Oscar
Than you Oscar for your excellent running sessions ,I find that watching your stock running always reminds me of my superb Christmas passed & living in anticipation of what is for my railway under the tree .. Have a happy Christmas & Great & safe new year .
Great to hear!
Happy Christmas.
Oscar
What an amazing video Oscar, absolutely love the Diesel Railcar unit, I have a couple of the newer 1980`s models with the ringfield motors.
Regards
Kev
Good evening Kev. They are great models with some subtle variations over the years. I think they are a really terrific model also.
Thanks for watching.
Oscar
Adding thanks Along with Richard, Andrew and Russel's.. For the turntable explanation... cheers
Love the simplicity and ruggedness of these units Oscar great review mate always enjoyable,
Stewart
Thanks Stewart, they are not the most glamorous of models! But I think Tri-ang and then Hornby sold a lot of them over the years. And on the real railways, they brought about a massive change to the way railways were run and in turn, gave the traveling public more choices and improved comfort.
Oscar
Once more, very nice. I don't have a turntable but over the years i have collected literally piles of super 4 and series 3 track and points and cross overs; the main problem for me is the fish-plates or joiners. They're all badly corroded and replacements difficult to get hold of. I've thought about soldering the track together but stainless steel is difficult to solder. Anyway, i really enjoy your work; please keep it up. Thanks.
Good morning John, the corrosion can be quite bad on the fish plates. It's odd how some do corrode and some don't even when two pieces of track stored together right next to each other one will go and the other not. I think different materials or grades of materials must have been used. I don't know of any replacements at present, but it would be great if someone could manufacture them. Perhaps a simplified vision just a joiner that could be pushed on could work very well.
Many thanks for watching.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Thanks Oscar; right now i'm in the process of building a new layout; I have four circuits planned, and up-line and down-line with sidings of modern track (code 100) and the other will have an up-line and down-line of Super 4 Track on which I can run my old Triang collection which i value very much. That's why I'm a fan of your site. Best wishes, John
It was a good idea to fit the power bogie in the guards compartment where it is partly hidden through the windows
It’s nice that the power bogie unit has a representation of the actual engine on the underside moulding too
Wonderful video Oscar.
Very interesting & enjoyable to watch as always.
Thank you for posting.
Best regards,
Steve.
Thank you, Steve. Oscar
Wow , thanks again Oscar for the information you supplied re-the green DMU cars. I have aquired 3 of these sets now and have also bought some more centre carriages (1 with the seating and 1 without) so I will eventually run 1 x 4 car set and 2 x 2 car sets or 2 x 3 car sets an 1 x 2 car sets.
Brilliant technology's for back then an well before planned obsolescence of the late 1960 and early 1970's (or thats what happened here in australia at least). And the moving bits were mostly made of steel and not plastic like they nealry all are now.
Also a big thankyou for showing us the video of the turntable and how it all works as I have watched this video before about the dmu's but must have fell asleep during this part (the turntable part) of the video the last time I watched it.
I was always wondering about how they operate as in power wise and how they got there power to,turn qnd connect to what track it is going to and from etc.
I am intending to hopefully get a couple of them as i have not got any of them as of yet as they are wanting asrastronomical prices for them here in Australia and now with the high cost of the postage and all the taxes and import duties to get items here in Australia is a bit over the top.
Anyhoo thanks again mate for another great informative video as it really helps us avid collectors and people out where modeling is concerned.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Good evening John, sounds like you have a growing collection, I think these DUM models are great today but they must have quite special at the time when first on sale. Glad you found the bit about the turntable of interest. Its a real shame about the rising cost of postage and taxes and import duties every where seem to be becoming more complicated.
Thanks again take care.
Oscar
Great explanation of the turntable.
Richard
Thanks Richard for watching and taking the time to comment.
Oscar
Thank you again Oscar, that was most informative. My rail car set has the seating and destination boards for Bury. I purchased two centre cars in 2016, a Tri-ang / Hornby one which had been repainted by hand (a bit of a mess) and a genuine Tri-ang one but no seating in it. It is one set that I would dearly love to run on code 100 track but cannot. Looking forward to what you bring us next week. Cheers, David.
Hi, David great to hear you have one of these sets. Is it just the drive wheels that prevent it from running on code 100. As sometimes the rest of the plastic wheels seem to run well on code 100. Especially If this is a later 60s model the wheel profiles got a little finer! The DMU with the illuminated head code (75-77) Had smooth wheels finer wheels. I think these are the same as used on the last version of the Blue Pullman It may be worth finding a set of these drive wheels to try. Thanks again for watching and taking the time comment. Oscar
Thank you for your reply Oscar. I did not know the answer to your question so I have been down to the layout and tested the coaches and dummies from that set and my Tri-ang 2BIL and I'm afraid it's all of them that are bouncing over the sleepers but I would get the new drive wheels for both sets if I knew where to look. Any pointers? Cheers, David.
That's a shame. The part number is X117 keep a look out on eBay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triang-Hornby-DMU-Pullman-Motor-bogie-smooth-wheels-00-Gauge-/253381831322 there's a whole bogie with the smooth wheels just ended and a single set axel available at present. I think this part number covers both ribbed and smooth wheels so check the pictures on ebay. Johns Amazing Trains (chambs123) used to sell turned down wheelsets for all the Tri-ang Diesels. I'm not sure if he still does. These people supply newly made Drive wheelsets that will run on code 100 www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/CAT007#TDCP This just leaves the all the plastic wheels which could be replaced with new Hornby or smaller coach wheels. Johns Amazing Trains has an excellent video showing his method of conversion to pinpoint axels for his older Tri-ang coaching stock. Oscar
David Atkins / Oscar; it may help you to know that I have recently had my Triang EMU motor bogie converted to run on code 100 Peco track by ‘Scalespeed’ at Leigh on Solent, as advertised in the model press. It has had the wheel flanges reduced, as far as practical and with a full service runs as well as I remember when purchased new in I think 1959. My understanding is that a similar conversion is available for the DMU power bogie. Usual disclaimer - Just a very satisfied customer.
Wonderful video and great explanation.
Thank you, Norbert. glad you enjoyed the explanation.
Oscar
Nice Turntable. Better in my opinion than the modern one with “Geneva” gears. Great explanation too. Best wishes, Bob
Thanks for the info.
Oscar
Good one Oscar. Like the turntable explanation. I had an R408U from 1973 but stupidly replaced it with the spinning disc thing in 1978 which is a much poorer and cheap design. Eventually secured a second hand R408U (with converter tracks to System 6) last year. She is installed on layout but not too happy with it as there is a curve leading directly onto the turntable causing most of my later big locos to derail, so looking at a different configuration to prevent this. It’s a great unit though.
Thank you Russell, glad you liked it. The R408U is a great turntable. It was a neat idea they had marketing it with the converter tracks. I think your right those later big locomotives would be happier with there wheels all inline before they negotiate the break in the track onto the bridge. It's always juggling act trying to fit these things in they take up so much space. And they never made a curved track section to run the outlet tracks parallel! Oscar
Oscar Paisley Cheers Oscar . Yes because mine has converter tracks to System 6 I can use R643 curve , so I can get the tracks parallel . I noted that you must have made an adjustment in some way
This is my Dream Railway!
That was a very nice video as I'm just digging my father's railway stuff out of the r157 with 3 carriages and it's the first triang I've seen with 4 smooth wheels I just took 18 locos they've all got grip wheels which I find are so much better when did they start putting smooth wheels on on them still a nice video
RE: The R.408 & R.408U Turntables.
It's worth noting this...
If, for any reason, the bridge is removed from the turntable base, it is essential to line up the "A" mark on the main drive gear and the "A" mark on the underside of the Bridge before attempting to re-fit the bridge.
Failure to do this can lead to the drive gear being 'out of phase' with the gear track on the base, potentially causing the gear to jam, potentially causing damage.
(As an aside, the maroon gears from the earlier R.408 turntable seem to be more fragile than the later black gears used for the R.408U.)
The main drive gear has the teeth so arranged that, on encountering the plastic sections in alignment with the entry and exit tracks, the motor base moves slightly in, against the spring pressure, towards the centre, allowing the smooth part of the main drive gear to rotate, bearing on the plastic section.
Thus the motor can continue to operate, but the turntable doesn't move.
This dwell gives time for the operator to cut the power, while the turntable is aligned with the entry and/ or exit tracks.
If the power is left on, then the motor base returns to the operating position, the full depth teeth engage with the teeth of the base gear track, and the turntable résumés it's rotation.
(An elegant solution to the alignment problem. 🙂)
When refitting the bridge, the "A" mark on the underside of the bridge should be aligned with the "A" mark on the underside of the base.
The motor end of the bridge should be fitted in, with the exit rails of position "A" over the edge of the bridge.
The other end should then be slid into position, lining up the hole for the centre pivot screw, with the edge of the bridge under the entry rail ends.
Information from the instructions supplied with the motorising kit to convert the R.407 hand operated turntable to the R.408 motorised version.
This kit included the wired (with contacts) motor, base & gears, brass rings for the centre with wiring fitted,
Wiring from the power source to the operating switch, the operating switch itself, and the wires from the switch to the turntable base input.
ᚱᚢᚠᚠᚾᚢᛏ × ᛏᚼᚬᚱᛋᛏᚬᚾ
🐉🙋🏼♀️😉
Hi Ruffnut Thorston, thanks for watching and taking the time to share this great information it's very much appreciated. Whilst I have a Tri-ang Railways boxed X.319 turntable conversion kit its sadly missing its instruction sheet.
Take care.
Oscar
Brilliant clip, thanks for sharing. Bob
Thank you, Bob
Oscar
Very nice attention to detail on the turntable explanation. Also, nice 3 car rail diesel. Does she give you any power pickup issues over points? Thank you as always for the video.
Hi, thank you Andrew. she seems pretty good just the occasional stutter. But will mostly run very slow over the point. And just a slight hesitation on the diamond crossing! But then almost everything doses on the diamond crossings. Oscar
Still running because old motors where made to last when looked after IE serviced and oiled like old X04 motors for one
R334 is a rare bird. When did the point number indicators come in? 1970's? Loved seeing all the variants of the DMU over the years, most informative -well done and thanks Oscar
Thanks chorlton4 the DMU is a great model but I am not sure about the point number indicators. The DMU with the illuminated head code came along in 1975.
Oscar
excellent explanation of the turntable, very good video production well done. Just one query: how are the feeds to the actual bridge rails done? do the copper contacts go through the bridge and have pressure contact under the rails? Cheers
Good morning muir8009 glad you enjoyed the video. As far as I can see the copper contacts are held in place with what looks like a steel clip which passes through the bridge to clip onto the steel rails holding both the copper contacts and rails in place whilst supplying the feed to the bridge rails. This can be seen in the video around 09:53-10:27 along with the brass strips that are used to provide feed between the inlet rails and the brass contacts which the bridge contacts line up with, these appear to be held in place by a rivet type joint which allows the feed to pass from rail to contact whilst hold each item in place.
Many thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Oscar
Great video as always Oscar, very neat explanation of th eturntable, but how did the track line up accurately, what made it stop at exactly the right place each time?
Thanks Steve. I was just covering the power distribution in this video. The stops are controlled by a neat system of gears which provide a brief stop at each track outlet.
Oscar
The only problem with the Hornby Turntable is the number of outlet track. It looks right for the period.
Could be a bit limiting but would have put up production costs if it had outlets all the way round.
Oscar
So yours does not have seats mine has seats and a painted Driver and drivers cab! Check out my video Oscar is you wish to see what I mean!
- Muffin Man (Sam)
Thanks for watching Sam. No mine does not have seats. I think early on when they were released Tri-ang didn't put seats in them. Models released before 1961 had no seats from what I have read. Have watched your video, keep up the good work, you seem to have a fine collection of locomotives. Early Tri-ang models had really deep wheel flanges which may be causing your railcar to cut out on the point work.
Oscar
ahh thanks Oscar for getting in touch that's interesting thanks for the Info :D Muffin Man (sam)