Thanks for making videos on the Pony. We've had ours approx, 20 years we think. One day I'll dig up paperwork and see for sure, but it's been a gem. For the most part we only cut about a half acre 6 months out of the year, but have taken it to cut other properties from time to time. We have replaced the belt, (my husband and I) it wasn't too bad for 2 people. Had to get a breaker bar to do it. We just replaced the spark plug this year and had to adjust the valves. We've also replaced the blades maybe twice. We are not mechanics, just determined DIYers and appreciate great people like you who make videos to help us!! Not all heroes wear capes. :)
Ha ha, thank you for the kind words. I must have lost my cape somewhere. To get 20 years out of a riding lawn mower is great these days! I had a manager at Tractor Supply tell me one day that the average modern riding lawn mower only lasts about 7 years. I thought that was crazy!
You can disarm the safety lockouts for no cutting in reverse and even the seat sensor with ease. There is a metal thingy that gets bumped by the shift rod when you put it in reverse and it's connected to a spade connector that is part of the safety system. Just disconnect the spade connector. You can take the spade connectors on the left side of the seat off too to disable the seat safety switch which I've found to be annoying because if you go over lots of bumps it can trigger momentarily and make the engine sputter. Of course be careful though and I'm not responsible if you mess up or whatever.
Zone 8b Georgia mine is the same model 2012 and the deck is garbage, went through about 10 belts to date, the brakes stick, pto cable has broke about 4 times and the Steering wheel shaft gear has sheared off several times it was good up until about 2017 but I also live on 5 acres in the south all in all not a bad mower but really cheaply made.
This is a very sturdy and well built mower. I thought I wouldn't like the foot operated speed control but after one use ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTZSPVwJFBv2hORqhQamtxi-tAe5K2EtC , I can't believe I ever had one without it. It drives like a car with an automatic transmission. Easy to adjust mowing speed according to grass depth/thickness. I have yet to get used to the long throw of the blade engagement lever but kind of get why it is that way. It allows you to hold mowing for short moments if you need. The engine seems very substantial and the frame has very little flex, both adding up to an impressive package. All my previous tractors were 18 to21 hp with 42in decks. This one is 23/46. I mow about 1.5 acres about every 5 days here in Alaska and that mowing time has been reduced by about 20%, partly due to the very tight turning radius. No loop arounds lol. Hour meter, cruise control, reverse mowing capability,deck cleanout and easy assembly all add up to a very well thought out tractor.
Have had my Pony for about 6 years and your pros and cons are all spot on. I paid $999 for it. The only non-regular maintenance issue I have had is one of the blade belt pulleys broke out in the center but it was an easy and cheap fix. Other than that, just take care of her and she’ll take care of your lawn. I always change the filters, oil and clean my deck manually as well yearly.
Hay thanks man my neighbor has a Troy built mower and he needed his blades removed but I’ve never owned a ridin mower so your video on blade removal helped me to help him remove those blades. thanks again
What a fine video! You really gave this mower an excellent rundown, and I found your references to additional informative videos you've made really useful. I'm currently selling my 2017 Pony, which seems identical you yours except for having the 15.5 HP Briggs. I put a link to this video in my Craigslist ad, so potential buyers could access the info you provided. I initially bought the mower for my dad, but he started using a service so I've only mowed his yard with it a few times. Thought it did a fine job, though. Really, my only quibble is the lack of anti-scalp wheels. Thanks for putting up this useful video! keep up the good work!
Thank you, sir, I appreciate the kind words! And I hear you about the anti-scalp wheels. I have scalped some grass on a sharp turn before many times. I have considered adding them to my deck!
Fantastic video! Best one I've seen. Thank you. So I just bought a house a month ago and in the deal included a Troy Bilt same model as yours here on the video. Just a 2015. Before using it we changed it's fuel filter, belt and blades. Put in new oil and it has a full tank of gas. The problem that I'm having with it is that after a bit of cutting it will shut off on me. The engine will turn as if it may catch but it won't. I've been out there 20-30 min trying to get it to crank back an nothing. Finally I give up and push it back to it's parking spot. I'm thinking it's either the fuel pump or the spark plug. Any suggestions are appreciated.
i do 1.5acres with a push mower and I'm tired of it so I'm doing a bunch of research to find a good mower. this was a very thorough vid and helped me out a lot. appreciate it!
I've got the 2015 15.5 hp engine in my Troy Bilt Pony...same as you, very little trouble, reliable, easy to do maintenance. I use it to mow, tote stuff around, and to drag my gravel driveway...I love to Briggs and Stratton engine...very powerful. This year, I changed the blades and while I had the deck off, I changed the blades drive belt at the same time. Not easy as pie to do but easily do-able. I installed a voltmeter on it to see how the charging system is doing. I made a tow pin out of a piece of rebar bent into a J shape... turned the J upside down and drilled a hole in a couple of inches up the long part of the J. I put a removable cotter pin in the hole to keep the hitch secure.
There is a way to get it to mow in reverse. Behind the left rear tire, coming off the shift linkage, there's a small blade connector. Simply unplug that and tuck it up out of the way. You have to look for it, just follow the wires. Another tip. If you need to replace the spark plug, or do anything to the front of the engine or mower, to give you some room, tilt the hood forward. Then lift straight up on it. It sits on a couple of pins and is real easy to remove. I use a snow plow with mine and it makes it real easy to install and remove the plow. Hope that helps anyone who watches this or reads this comment. Thanks for posting the video, Flip.
I have the DOM 2018 Pony. I paid either 1k or 1.1k. Now it's almost 2k at HD. It's held up fairly well in three years and I don't have any major complaints. I like that you don't have to keep your foot on a pedal to keep it moving. I can mow in reverse which was difficult to learn. I do not try to turn the wheel very tightly when turning around as I think that will be a problem down the road from just listening to the way the gears handle. The major thing I don't like about it is it has no oil filter. That and the oil drain plug is hard to get to. The seat is comfortable to sit on. I don't feel like it's vibrating me to death and it goes fairly fast. Plus, it's red.
my N779 Pony from 2005 much older than this and still going, I DO NOT advise anyone to do this unless you know what you're doing , but I removed the engine shut off safety so I can mow in reverse. I also carry a long reach tool and canvas bag onboard to pick up debris without having to get off the mower. Added the mulch kit, the anti-scalp wheels, they help and LED headlights too, they sure beat those dim incandescent.
Very cool, man, sounds like you have a nice setup going now. I've thought about getting one of those long grabber tools. I've cut down 12 dead Ash trees on my property and I STILL get sticks everywhere and I get tired of getting off to pick them up. I've heard about people shutting off the safety as well.
You sold me. My 1994 Toro 12-38X transmission just blew apart today after 26 years of very hard use (and abuse). From your video, I can see all the improvements to riding mowers over the past 26 years. At $1,299 delivered from the local TSC, it's a no-brainer. I no longer abuse lawn mowers, because I don't want to go to lawn mower abuser Hell.
I have a 2012 as well. These are notorious for steering shaft issues as well as the flat gear that the shaft spins against to turn the wheels. If you do a lot of hard left/right steering or it's a bit hilly, it will wear the steering gears out quickly. The steering rod hole gets elongated as well after a few years. The belt keeper is easy to bend if you run over debris or it gets caught on something, so be careful of that. I agree, for the money it's not a bad deal. In hindsight, I'd have bought a Toro or something else with a heavier gauge deck and frame. It will take a good amount of abuse, but you may not get a lot of years out of it.
If you want to bypass the kill switch to keep the blades running in reverse, follow the reverse rod down and you will see it contacts a metal tab when placed in reverse. I bent my tab over so it can’t make contact and kill the engine. Saves so much time when having to backup.
@@fixitFlip on mine i went to the pto lever and removed the switch so it cannot be pressed edit: i didnt remove off tractor i unscrewed from body and ziptied out of way
I've got a Troy-Bilt TB 30R (the smallest riding mower they make) - have had it for 6 years now and it's never given me a problem. I also have a TB push mower that I bought a couple years ago (replaced my Lawnboy, which the direct-drive broke after just one year).
I've got almost the same mower but mine is a bit older and I love doing lawn care and it makes the job way easier than yousing a push mower I only have one camplat which is that when you go to work on the mower there is a flat metal plate On the back of the mower and there is no way to take it off so you just have to work around it. But other than that I have no complaints about the mower.
Wow looks good, can’t believe you never had to replace the drive belt. I broke two of those mowers within a year. Much bigger property though. But still, it chewed threw a dozen belts, steel of the cutting deck failed and cracked where the spindles mount onto it. I ended up retiring one and used it for spare parts for the other.
Yeah, I keep thinking this will be the summer it goes, and then I'll check it and the belt isn't even fraying or anything. I don't get it. But I'm not complaining. Did you store it outside?
@@fixitFlip Amazing, glad it's going so well for you. You must be looking after it well. We had them stored in a shed. Honestly I don't why they failed so hard on us other than that we might worked them too hard. It was a big place, took roughly 10 hours to mow. I remember the big pulley under the seat that is part of the drive train failed too. The steel just cracked. Probably perfect for the size yard you got... nice and flat too. Cheers
@@AlexSwan Yeah I'd say you're probably right. I've heard of other people that had bad luck with them, too, so its not just you. But it sounds like you punish yours a little more than me. 10 hours is a lot of mowing. And nice channel you've got there. Cheers.
I have a 2008 Pony with the 17.5 hp Briggs . I still use it weekly. The engine starts and runs perfectly. I run Mobil 1 oil. I noticed a small crank shaft oil drip and replaced the shaft seal last year. While I had the machine out of service I replaced the blade spindles as a precaution. My only complaint involves scalping on ground that is not level. The scalping wheel kit is somewhat affective but has limitations probably because the kit is mounted on the rear of the deck. As long a parts are available I expect to get many many more years out of the mower.
I have a 2008 mower and I change the oil every winter. I only cost $5.00 to keep clean oil so it is a good way to prevent problem. I am in Florida so I run it all year. They are a great value.
I hate to admit this, but it is a testimonial to the 17.7hp B&S. I got mine in 2013 at Lowes. It had some carb work done on it so it was marked down to $1000, I offered the manager $800 and he took it. Now I have to admit I have not changed the oil, or any filters, and stored out side in Michigan. I have only a quarter acre to cut weekly. Other then changing blades, flat tires, battery, and a twice broken PTO cable, zero maintenance. Continues to do the job. I do check the oil level and top it off once with a couple ounces. I did buy a set of new belts, but they're on standby.
That's pretty unreal to last like that without even changing the oil. But I agree with you Bobby. A testament to the engine for sure. The new ones keep getting less and less HP.
In the spring of 2019 I bought a brand new 42" Bronco version of the same tractor mower. I used it to mow about 3 acres one to two times a week for the first summer. Within about seven trips out, the PTO cable snapped. It's a tiny cable, so with some much heavier cable guided by a copper tube, I fabri-cobbled a heavy duty fix. Aside from that, the mower performed fantastically. I was surprised at the amount of abuse it could take in the form of speed, tall grass, and finding things in the grass. I usually mow at 2" or so. This acreage was previously owned by a scrap metal guy and for the first month I hit all manner of cables, steel, tarps, and whatnot hidden in the grass. Only a handful of times did something actually stall the engine. I would also like to add, unless the stick is of a certain size, I run them over and this mower took that punishment with ease. I got caught mowing after a dark a lot, so I added rock lights to the frame and back and some cheap-o LED lights to the front so I could see. I also added a digital voltage display to monitor any possible problems with the additional lighting, and there were none. The electrical system seems robust enough to handle small additions (19+ volts with no accessories at full throttle and no lower than 14.5 volts with everything on at full throttle). It's a good mower for $1,200.
I agree it's good for the price. I've thought about adding the LED lights as well. Sounds like you have a pretty nice setup going now. And fabri-cobbled is my new favorite word. Thank you for that. I think I do a lot of fabri-cobbling.
I just got the pony 42x and so far only complaint is when u let off the break the engagement is pretty harsh. Idk if that will calm down over time but still for the price it was the best mower.
I agree. Can’t beat the price. I was hoping to hear from somebody with the X. Interesting about the break. What do u think of the Troy-Bill engine so far?
@@fixitFlip just used it for the first time yesterday and it does a pretty damn good job mowing. Cuts nice and even without having to adjust the deck any. Through some tall grass the engine did bog down some but never seemed like it was gonna die. Only issue is my legs arnt very long and when I have to depress the brake I have to lean forward (even with the seat adjusted to the shortest position) alot and if the blade is engaged the mower tries to cutoff.....never had this issue on other mowers unless there is a way to adjust the brake pedal distance I guess I'll just have to live with it.
At the end of the day for $1000 bucks, you can't beat it. Yeah, to a certain extent there's a lot of junk you can buy out there as far as lawn & garden equipment goes but proper maintenance, oil changes, winterizing, proper storage you can really make that $1000 go a long way. I love to buy fancy stuff too but for a cheap 42" deck, it does well. I used to cut with a old john deere riding mower from the 90s that was sold as an "economy" option in Sears. It was sold under the Scotts brand or the Sabre brand, but it was the cheapest john deere mower you can get in 1997 and my neighbor used it up until a few years ago and I bought it for $100 used it for five years. Why not.
Not a bad mower for the money. I paid roughly $1000 for mine in 2012. In hindsight, I'd have bought something a bit nicer. The deck is okay, but really needs the anti-scalp wheels on it. Not the easiest thing to take off and put back on, but isn't big of a hassle if you're mechanically inclined, or can watch a few of the UA-cam videos out there. I've had issues with the deck not being level and the steering wearing out (steering shaft, steering gear, etc) The steering is caused by a hill that I mow where I have to lean to one side which puts a lot of pressure on the steering and then a couple of tight turns. One of the main complaints about this is the steering and the issue there is mainly caused by the hard left/right steering and the hills. My chief complaint is the deck and frame don't seem to be very heavy (maybe 14 gauge?, if it were 12 or 13 gauge, it might feel a bit stiffer and not as "cheap"..) Overall, for $1000-ish bucks, you really can't go wrong. It's been reliable outside of a few repairs and is probably the best deal you money can buy if you're looking for a no frills, simple, cheap (if money is a factor in your purchase) mower out there.
I agree with pretty much everything you said here. And I've heard of other people having issues with the steering like you. I have thought about adding the anti-scalp wheels. Maybe this summer.
You made a video several years ago regarding using Gator blades on your Troy Bilt. I just got the same mower and I am wondering if the extra width and weight of those wider Gator blades may cause too much strain on the engine. I know that I accidently installed the wrong size blades on a Craftsman mower once and I think it did some kind of damage to the engine but I am just guessing about that. I just wondered if you have an opinion about this as I would really like to try those blades when it comes time for me to change/sharpen blades on this new mower. Thank you. Very helpful videos!
Thank you for the kind words. I can tell you that I still use those exact same blades to this day and I have had no issues. I actually just sharpened them a couple weeks ago when I did my deck repainting video. I will never go back.
I guess this is going to be the closest I can find on your channel to what I am trying to figure out. I have a year older model (2011) that has been working great but developed a problem this year that I can't figure out. I've fixed lots of things on the mower, and do the general maintenance myself, but diagnostics isn't my strong suit. The mower starts fine, really easily, but while it runs, it has this very odd rev / fading problem. It's very cyclic, seems to slow down or speed up depending on the speed of the engine and the fade part of the cycle actually feels like it's dragging on the engine. If this thing was a 4 cylinder engine, I'd say one spark plug was bad, but it's only got one! I cleaned out the carburator, changed the fuel filter and air filter, changed the oil at the end of last year, and got it a new battery (not related, it just needed one). I'm reading about something called a flywheel key and wondering if, a,) does this machine have one, and b.) would a sheared one cause this kind of behavior? As far as I know, this mower hasn't hit any immovable objects, something I read can cause a sheared flywheel key, but it's usually operated by my 20 y.o. son and anything is possible. Then again, I may be on the totally wrong track. Do you know of any other issue that might cause this kind of behavior? I'm afraid I just can't resist trying to pick the brain of someone who has this same mower. :p Sorry. Also on this machine, have you ever had to tighten the clutch / brake cable? I figured I'd ask if you had any pointers to offer on that repair. No worries if you haven't. I will just keep looking. Thanks!!!
How old is it? Mine's a 2012 and I paid $900 brand new if that helps you. I think if it's in great shape and you can get it for $600 that would be a great deal.
@@fixitFlip okay man thank you so much fr. This ones a 12 I think as well for 650. I know the guy pretty well and he repairs mowers and flips them. Just wanted to make sure that was a decent price. I'm going to go get it tomorrow
Mine cuts in reverse without any issues. I eliminated all that safety junk because I like to get done when I mow and I also don’t have to disengage the blades if I decide to get off of it while they are engaged. Mine is also fixing to get a 24 horsepower twin cylinder on it.
My 1st troybuilt riding mower lasted 12 years .I got a new one today love it seat so soft .love it so much.easy to understand love that not hard to do.
That’s funny! A thousand dollar mower that that sells for $2100 at Lowe’s in 2024. I like Troy-Bilt. They’re fairly easy to fix when they do break even, though they may break a little more often. However, they’re cheap and easy to fix. I just purchased one that is refurbished and has a rebuilt Craftsman branded Briggs & Stratton 18 hp Intek with an oil filter that has been rebuilt. Only paid $600 with it being refurbished and having new belts, a one-year-old battery and that engine, which is awesome. Mine is a Pony as well. They used market for Roddy lawnmowers is doing very well. People refuse to pay over $2000 for a 42 inch cut machine.
I have the same mower, I disconnected the reverse shut off safety switch under the frame near the left rear tire so I can mow in reverse. I also disconnected the switch under the seat to be able to hop off while the blades are still spinning and it stay running. I know it is not safe but I’m careful😂
Thank you for your terrific, detailed videos. Can you tell me, is there a way to add no-scalp wheels to this mower? I got mine use (same exact model as yours) and I noticed my lawn is brownish after the first cut. (just bought last week) and I also saw someone that showed on a different video that the front tip of the mower is supposed to be higher than the rear. You show in your other video of - How to Level the Deck, that the front should be lower than the rear. Can you please confirm and explain why ? Thank you again so much., just trying to learn.
Thank you! Sure, you could add a univeral MTD set of wheels or something like this from Troy-Bilt www.troybilt.com/en_US/tires-and-wheels/deck-wheel-kit/OEM-190-183.html Just have to drill a couple holes. If your yard was a little brown you could be cutting it too low. I would cut it with the highest setting on this mower. And your blades will cut better if they are slanted forward. In other words, the front of the mower should be pitched lower than the back about 1/8 inch.
I just picked one of these things up for short money (a super low hour 2013 model) all it needed was some spindles and belts. However it scalps the absolute hell out of my lawn even on the highest deck setting! Granted my yard is far from flat and level, but this thing as absolutely useless. Trying to install anti scalp wheels on it this week but it’s not going to be easy as the wheel kits don’t fit the post 2009 models and the brackets put the wheels where they interfere with the front mower wheels and the bagger tube. Going to have to fabricate some brackets and weld them on as this deck doesn’t have any place to attach the anti scalp wheels. Anyway I’m not sure they will help.
there is a little wire where the blade engaging lever is , if you remove that wire it'll cut in reverse :/ also you can buy pass the "person siting on it " the same way . just 2 little wires and unplug :/ iv done it on my troybuilt xp horse , mtd
I have the troy-bilt pony 2010 model. I got it from my sister that had a bad motor. It was a 17.5 hp bs . I had an old craftsman with a good 15.5 horsepower Kohler Command engine that ran real good so I put it in there and used it for a couple of years and it finally died so I got one of those Harbor Freight 22 horsepower engines and put in it and it is a beast now I use it to Bush Hog tall fields and I use it also to cut all my other properties because I didn't want to wear out my new Craftsman mower on everybody else's stuff I did also some modifications to it. I welded a bumper on it and put me a harbor freight light bar kit on it so I can cut at night but I have no other problems with it the deck was in good shape it was like new when I got it and I have not had to change anything but maybe a belt and blades. also put the tractor tires on the back because I cut a lot of low property where it is wet to keep me from getting stuck other than that I have no complaints about it It is not as smooth of a ride as either of my craftsman mower and not a tighter turn but put in low gear and Bush hog all day long.
I have a 2011 pony that I got via someone leaving it at my rental house.. I’ve been working on it for like a month because of all the problems it had.. I’ve replaced every belt on it cleaned and rebuilt the carb did a valve adjustment ect.. I don’t really like the build quality at all and you can tell that it was cheaper model. I quess they would be ok if you were careful with them (which my ex tenant must not have been 😂) & you maintained them, but currently mine is living up to the name (MTD; Multiple Problems Daily 😂)
Ha ha, yeah these models are definitely the bottom rung and you have to really take care of them if you want them to last. I have videos on all the drive belts, etc. if you need them.
Really useful video. I just came across them. I recently purchased the snow blade attachment period in the docks that came with it, there seems to be a requirement to remove the decklid. Is this necessary?
@@RobertInFlorida Ahh, ha ha. Gotcha. I have never used a snow blade attachment, honestly, so I can't say for sure if you need to take the deck off. But if you do, I have a video on how to do it. It's not too difficult: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html
I love MTD products. Not a fan of their Cub Cadet's and hydrostatic transmissions in general, but the rest of their products are really nice. My Yard Machine that I purchased in 2002 still runs very well. I recently got a new Troy-Bilt Bronco last August to replace my Yard Machine because the mowing deck on my Yard Machine had multiple holes in it. I took the deck off and use my Yard Machine for plowing my driveway in the winter now. I had vibrations from the mowing deck of my new Troy-Bilt when I first used it, so I changed out the blades to see if that was the issue and it was. Must be one of the new blades weren't balanced properly.
Very cool. And you are probably right, if one of your blades is off, it can really make that deck wobble. Heard it from many people. What kind of engine does your new Bronco have in it?
@@fixitFlip I went with the Briggs & Stratton. I have always had excellent luck with those. I'm not too familiar with the Kohler engines. What was rather odd, the Troy-Bilt with the Kohler engine was $200 more than the one with the Briggs & Stratton, yet the Briggs & Stratton has 1HP more than the Kohler engine. Both mowers are identical other than the engines.
I purchased a used one that was maintained. All year up until now it worked great. I mow awhile and then it just shuts down.stops. I wait a few minutes, it starts up, I go a short distance and it shuts off again to the point I can’t restart it. Is something over heating? Is it not getting enough fuel ? I am not mechanically handy but would like to save $ fixing it myself. Thank you.
I bought a Troy Bilt in 2008 a d still cutting with it, but it has been the worse mower I have ever had before constantly working on it like the spindles, belts, bearings, blades, the deck started cracking, so I had to weld it the hood of the mower had to be welded where it was separating nothing, but repairs all the time, but engine has done well no complaints.
I don't think the engine is powerful enough unfortunately! Or lets put it this way. It can handle it, but it might not last as long if you put this kind of strain on it.
Check you tension arm and always make sure all spindle, pullies and arm tension bolts are tight because after 3 years I had to buy both bushings and arm for mine. The bolt came lose enough to rock up and down and beat grooves in the arm and both bushings. The tension pully would lift up and down about 1 inch and I didn't catch it in time. Al way check them at least once a month while using it. The tension pully should be as tight as the other pullies .Hope this helps somebody...GOD bless!!!
Question... I watched your deck leveling video. Whenever I try to adjust the front of the deck, the left side (sitting on the mower) raises up considerably before the right side (chute side.) Its throwing the left/right level off. Doesn't help to adjust the front/back level as it only lets the back down. Hope you can make sense sense of what Im trying to say lol. Any suggestions? Its the 13AN77KG 2008. Thanks.
@@fixitFlip I was thinking maybe the adjustment rod was bent somehow, so I got a new one. Still has the same problem. I haven't hit or ran over anything with the deck. I set the back level using the 1/2" bolt and big brass nut. When I try to adjust the front, the left side starts raising, but the chute side won't until the left side gets up to about 2". I found this conversation on a google search.. What causes the left side on the front of the deck to be lower than the right side? VW asked on 2019-05-28 Hi VW. Thank you for your question. If you are finding that the deck is lower on the left side, it could be caused by a number of things. This could be caused as a result of the blades either being worn down too far, damaged or they are not sharpened. The blades may also not be installed correctly. The deck could be either not levelled correctly or the deck is clogged with clippings. The deck shell could be damaged and needs to be replaced or the mower spindle may be bent or loose. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day! I don't really see the blades could cause this as one wouldn't be heavy enough to throw the deck off. I don't see how the spindles could affect it unless it was only doing it with the blades engaged. I removed the deck and cleaned it really well. No visible signs of damage to the deck at all. The deck is hanging correctly not jammed up anywhere. Sorry for the long post, but I'm stumped.
@@joseywales7930 Yeah I think when they are talking about the blades being bent or worn down and spindles loos and yada yada, what they mean is that most people will measure the deck height off the blades. So if your blade is bent or banged up or spindle is loos, it's going to measure off. That's really not a reason to make actually BE off, just would make it measure off. Can you just do the front to back leveling first, then the side to side to even it out?
@@fixitFlip thanks. It must have just been stuck in gear from sitting for awhile. I knew I had been able to push it before but couldn't yesterday. Went back out this morning, shifted F-N-R several times while trying to move. Suddenly, the last time in neutral it was free wheeling...
Briggs & Staton are great engines - the manufacturing plant in Statesboro, GA - gives a $5000 Christmas Bonus to employees - based on Warranty Returns - so the employees are determined to produce good solid engines. Plus the engines are easy to get parts and make repairs to. I had a Honda - the carburetor kept condensing water - and would freeze and crack in the winter.
I bought same model in 2013 but today hit a stump after 7 years and now blades don't engage and manual PTO is move freely. Do you have a video about that.
I do not have a video on that specifically. But if you watch my "Deck Removal" video here: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html I show where the PTO is and how it hooks up. You can use that to compare to yours and see what is possibly disconnected or bent.
I have one starts every year. Have had to change battery. I tried to raise the deck. It is really not that easy. See if you can actually level the deck. I had a real fight. The I can only cut my lawn at the highest setting. I would like to make it more adjustable. Have any ideas.
Psst! Theres a little plug at the rear passenger wheel, you unplug it and you can cut in reverse. At least on my 2009 there is. Zip tie it up so it doesn't get caught in anything.
I’ve had my troy Bilt pony for nine years got a brand new in 2014 I am now having an issue with the steering rod/drag link and the nut holding it down is stripped for some reason it won’t come off or even tighten down
I got a new 2019 Troy bilt pony I had for 4 months now and I love it I cut 3 acres with it and it does fine but how do you know when you're at your 50 hours for your old change it don'ts come with hour meter?
You can buy an hour meter and add it on, but I just kind of keep track. I know it takes me about an hour to cut my grass, and I cut it about once a week. So that would be good for 50 mows. But I don't cut mine any where near 50 times a season, so I just typically change my oil every spring, and I know I am way under the 50 hour limit.
if you're mowing weekly @ 1 hr/session in a 6 month growing season, every other season would reach the 50 hr mark. save $ and effort by changing it every other season (oil filtered mowers only)
I know! I keep it under a shed, not in a garage but the battery life is so bad and now it is broken down in my back yard. I'm watching videos to see how to fix it. And believe me, I'm 70 so mechanical stuff just is not my thing. @@fixitFlip
You have had great luck with yours I have the same one didn’t have as good luck lol but I’m going to pick a new one today so hopefully I will have the luck you have lol thanks for video
I got a 2017 Pony it has been good mower . it has got stuck between forward & reverse a few times , last summer the brake was getting stuck you break and let off be going slow for 30 foot them it take off , the 2 small pins on the break need to be greased every other season 20 minute fix .
My fuel filter video: ua-cam.com/video/BfRl1ANUrX4/v-deo.html My air filter video: ua-cam.com/video/_hvkqRwH2-o/v-deo.html Each video has the part you need linked in the description!
@@fixitFlip I’m having problems getting part numbers for it.....and every time I type Troybilt in the PC it takes me to their website (which is like taking your car to the dealership) so that’s what I’m struggling with at the moment. I have to admit that I’m happy that I own it and it was free but so far, the parts numbers hunt isn’t going well. 😂
@@thaddeusibarra4308 I'm not sure about the exact part # but here is a link to buy fuel filter on Amazon: amzn.to/2vZ9mD9 And here's one to buy the air filter on amazon: amzn.to/2LaGLzx
The way the current models are and how much the Pony has been downgraded in quality, I would 100% agree. If I were purchasing tomorrow, would get nothing less than the Bronco.
Yeah mine has a little zerk fitting inside each front wheel that you can attach a grease gun too and grease. Or you can just take each wheel off and grease the axel.
I had to replace the bearings on the spindles last year. Mine is a 2012. The main complaint I have is the cut height, numbers 1,2, & 3 are useless, #4 is the lowest I can go and I mostly use #5. Perhaps the linkage is set up wrong. I've set the wheels up with the recommended tire pressure. Can anyone tell me what the minimum and maximum blade height is for this mower? That would give me a good starting point.
I can tell you mine is the exact same way. I normally cut mine only on #5. Occasionally on 4, but have to be careful not to scalp on turns. I think they just set them too low personally.
@@fixitFlip I've been looking at the geometry and trying to figure out what I can do to change it without over inflating my tires or getting larger tires. My blades are about a quarter inch from the bottom of my deck. I think I have to shorten the front rod, however the bracket to the body isn't very thick and I suspect that it will bend if I tighten it too much. But that seems like the easiest way to raise the deck. I'm going to tighten it all the way and see where my deck height is at, then go from there.
I think the design the front deck hanger system and it's length is to allow the two rear brackets to raise the entire deck by applying tension to the front hanger and maintains a level deck. It does this by actually moving the deck slightly towards the rear as it elevates. But I don't think that the front mounting bracket is strong enough to shorten the rod enough to make the #1 thru #3 settings useful.
I have one mine was manufactured January 20th 2013 I just changed the blades on mine this last Sunday and the blaze were eat up I dread having to change the belts there is a wire on the left side rear that you can unplug and cut grass backwards I was going to fix mine that way.My coworker came to my house with some longer wrenches to get my blades off,and then Last Monday I went to Home Depot to buy new blades and I put them on.
Cool video but let's talk about the white elephant in the room. That deck is NOT EASY to take off nor is it easy to INSTALL. There is a molded cable that is real tricky to mess with and it requires a pin to run through it. I would avoid removing the deck by yourself at all costs.
No it is not super easy! I wouldn't call it difficult, but I would say it is rather annoying. Here's my video on how to do it: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html
Hello,...I need your help. Got a new Pony 2 months ago and now I have it in the shop for maintenance. From day one the motor & Pony drove great,..but as soon as I engaged the deck the vibration was just too excessive. I took it back and got a 2nd one and it did the exact same thing. No one at Troy could provide any help. I took it to Maint. yard yesterday and I expect a call soon. The shop was mostly closed down and only 1 kid about 20 years old. He didn't look like he knew much,..just doing the paper work. The problem could be blades out of balance, or a dozen other things with the deck. Other deals just said it is the cheap Chineese mfg. Just standing next to the mower I can move the deck side to side by 3+ inches. When I drive it the cutting deck seams to surge faster then slower almost like a bad carborator but when I drive it without engaging the deck it is as smooth as you would ever want. Please help. My last mower was a Yard Machine and lasted 20 years until I had a shop work on it and it never ran again. Which there was a way I could contact you for help.
I have never experienced what you are discussing but I'm sorry you're having problems. I did a little research and found this video: ua-cam.com/video/m4G9mi4_gzA/v-deo.html It seems like several other people in the comments are experiencing similar problems. Maybe you could reach out to him and see if he figured it out? There are also ideas in the comments.
17.5 hp I don't know if you can tell from the video but my yard is one big hill. I've had it 10 years now and never had any issues zipping up the hill. Very pleased.
Thanks for making videos on the Pony. We've had ours approx, 20 years we think. One day I'll dig up paperwork and see for sure, but it's been a gem. For the most part we only cut about a half acre 6 months out of the year, but have taken it to cut other properties from time to time. We have replaced the belt, (my husband and I) it wasn't too bad for 2 people. Had to get a breaker bar to do it. We just replaced the spark plug this year and had to adjust the valves. We've also replaced the blades maybe twice. We are not mechanics, just determined DIYers and appreciate great people like you who make videos to help us!! Not all heroes wear capes. :)
Ha ha, thank you for the kind words. I must have lost my cape somewhere. To get 20 years out of a riding lawn mower is great these days! I had a manager at Tractor Supply tell me one day that the average modern riding lawn mower only lasts about 7 years. I thought that was crazy!
I just picked one of these up from my neighbor for free today. Gave it an oil change and needs a battery, but it runs. Thanks for your videos.
No problem, glad I could help. You got a good deal!!
You can disarm the safety lockouts for no cutting in reverse and even the seat sensor with ease. There is a metal thingy that gets bumped by the shift rod when you put it in reverse and it's connected to a spade connector that is part of the safety system. Just disconnect the spade connector. You can take the spade connectors on the left side of the seat off too to disable the seat safety switch which I've found to be annoying because if you go over lots of bumps it can trigger momentarily and make the engine sputter. Of course be careful though and I'm not responsible if you mess up or whatever.
Ha ha no worries. Thanks for the tip!
My Troy Bilt Pony takes on 1.5 acres every week and has required very little maintenance. Good rider!
Very nice. I have no major complaints. Not the best mower in the world but you can’t beat the price.
How long does it take you?
Pretty solid mower that is value oriented. Same belt in 8 years is impressive!
I know I can't believe I still haven't shredded one! Been wearing it out this season a lot.
Zone 8b Georgia mine is the same model 2012 and the deck is garbage, went through about 10 belts to date, the brakes stick, pto cable has broke about 4 times and the Steering wheel shaft gear has sheared off several times it was good up until about 2017 but I also live on 5 acres in the south all in all not a bad mower but really cheaply made.
This is a very sturdy and well built mower. I thought I wouldn't like the foot operated speed control but after one use ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTZSPVwJFBv2hORqhQamtxi-tAe5K2EtC , I can't believe I ever had one without it. It drives like a car with an automatic transmission. Easy to adjust mowing speed according to grass depth/thickness. I have yet to get used to the long throw of the blade engagement lever but kind of get why it is that way. It allows you to hold mowing for short moments if you need. The engine seems very substantial and the frame has very little flex, both adding up to an impressive package. All my previous tractors were 18 to21 hp with 42in decks. This one is 23/46. I mow about 1.5 acres about every 5 days here in Alaska and that mowing time has been reduced by about 20%, partly due to the very tight turning radius. No loop arounds lol. Hour meter, cruise control, reverse mowing capability,deck cleanout and easy assembly all add up to a very well thought out tractor.
Agreed
Can you plow snow with these?
Ok so I came to look at what to expect for the one I just got because I've never had a riding mower before. Thank u for these videos. This is helpful
Awesome. Glad I could help. I have videos on just about all the maintenance you will need to do if you need some tips.
Have had my Pony for about 6 years and your pros and cons are all spot on. I paid $999 for it. The only non-regular maintenance issue I have had is one of the blade belt pulleys broke out in the center but it was an easy and cheap fix. Other than that, just take care of her and she’ll take care of your lawn. I always change the filters, oil and clean my deck manually as well yearly.
I agree! Doesn't hurt to give the underside of the deck a good pressure washing and paint job every couple years as well.
Hay thanks man my neighbor has a Troy built mower and he needed his blades removed but I’ve never owned a ridin mower so your video on blade removal helped me to help him remove those blades. thanks again
No problem, glad I could help. People helping people, what it's all about!
What a fine video! You really gave this mower an excellent rundown, and I found your references to additional informative videos you've made really useful. I'm currently selling my 2017 Pony, which seems identical you yours except for having the 15.5 HP Briggs. I put a link to this video in my Craigslist ad, so potential buyers could access the info you provided. I initially bought the mower for my dad, but he started using a service so I've only mowed his yard with it a few times. Thought it did a fine job, though. Really, my only quibble is the lack of anti-scalp wheels.
Thanks for putting up this useful video! keep up the good work!
Thank you, sir, I appreciate the kind words! And I hear you about the anti-scalp wheels. I have scalped some grass on a sharp turn before many times. I have considered adding them to my deck!
Fantastic video! Best one I've seen. Thank you. So I just bought a house a month ago and in the deal included a Troy Bilt same model as yours here on the video. Just a 2015. Before using it we changed it's fuel filter, belt and blades. Put in new oil and it has a full tank of gas. The problem that I'm having with it is that after a bit of cutting it will shut off on me. The engine will turn as if it may catch but it won't. I've been out there 20-30 min trying to get it to crank back an nothing. Finally I give up and push it back to it's parking spot. I'm thinking it's either the fuel pump or the spark plug. Any suggestions are appreciated.
It could be the spark plug. Have you checked the air filter?
i do 1.5acres with a push mower and I'm tired of it so I'm doing a bunch of research to find a good mower. this was a very thorough vid and helped me out a lot. appreciate it!
Same here, I'm trying to decide on the zero turn or one of these.
😱😱
How long you take to do it
I've got the 2015 15.5 hp engine in my Troy Bilt Pony...same as you, very little trouble, reliable, easy to do maintenance. I use it to mow, tote stuff around, and to drag my gravel driveway...I love to Briggs and Stratton engine...very powerful. This year, I changed the blades and while I had the deck off, I changed the blades drive belt at the same time. Not easy as pie to do but easily do-able. I installed a voltmeter on it to see how the charging system is doing. I made a tow pin out of a piece of rebar bent into a J shape... turned the J upside down and drilled a hole in a couple of inches up the long part of the J. I put a removable cotter pin in the hole to keep the hitch secure.
Sounds like a good system you have setup. What was your strategy for the drive belt? Go through battery compartment?
There is a way to get it to mow in reverse. Behind the left rear tire, coming off the shift linkage, there's a small blade connector. Simply unplug that and tuck it up out of the way. You have to look for it, just follow the wires. Another tip. If you need to replace the spark plug, or do anything to the front of the engine or mower, to give you some room, tilt the hood forward. Then lift straight up on it. It sits on a couple of pins and is real easy to remove. I use a snow plow with mine and it makes it real easy to install and remove the plow. Hope that helps anyone who watches this or reads this comment. Thanks for posting the video, Flip.
Awesome, thanks for the tips, Mike!
I have the DOM 2018 Pony. I paid either 1k or 1.1k. Now it's almost 2k at HD. It's held up fairly well in three years and I don't have any major complaints. I like that you don't have to keep your foot on a pedal to keep it moving. I can mow in reverse which was difficult to learn.
I do not try to turn the wheel very tightly when turning around as I think that will be a problem down the road from just listening to the way the gears handle. The major thing I don't like about it is it has no oil filter. That and the oil drain plug is hard to get to.
The seat is comfortable to sit on. I don't feel like it's vibrating me to death and it goes fairly fast. Plus, it's red.
Yeah, I think the new ones finally have oil filters. The price is silly now. My drive belt finally popped today, so video on that coming soon.
my N779 Pony from 2005 much older than this and still going, I DO NOT advise anyone to do this unless you know what you're doing , but I removed the engine shut off safety so I can mow in reverse. I also carry a long reach tool and canvas bag onboard to pick up debris without having to get off the mower. Added the mulch kit, the anti-scalp wheels, they help and LED headlights too, they sure beat those dim incandescent.
Very cool, man, sounds like you have a nice setup going now. I've thought about getting one of those long grabber tools. I've cut down 12 dead Ash trees on my property and I STILL get sticks everywhere and I get tired of getting off to pick them up. I've heard about people shutting off the safety as well.
You sold me. My 1994 Toro 12-38X transmission just blew apart today after 26 years of very hard use (and abuse). From your video, I can see all the improvements to riding mowers over the past 26 years. At $1,299 delivered from the local TSC, it's a no-brainer. I no longer abuse lawn mowers, because I don't want to go to lawn mower abuser Hell.
Ha ha I hear ya. I think you can't go wrong for the price. Just gotta take care of it.
I have a 2012 as well. These are notorious for steering shaft issues as well as the flat gear that the shaft spins against to turn the wheels. If you do a lot of hard left/right steering or it's a bit hilly, it will wear the steering gears out quickly. The steering rod hole gets elongated as well after a few years. The belt keeper is easy to bend if you run over debris or it gets caught on something, so be careful of that.
I agree, for the money it's not a bad deal. In hindsight, I'd have bought a Toro or something else with a heavier gauge deck and frame. It will take a good amount of abuse, but you may not get a lot of years out of it.
If you want to bypass the kill switch to keep the blades running in reverse, follow the reverse rod down and you will see it contacts a metal tab when placed in reverse. I bent my tab over so it can’t make contact and kill the engine. Saves so much time when having to backup.
Thanks for the tip. That really slows things down having turn the PTO off all the time.
mine you just had to unplug a wire...can't tell you exactly where it is, I did it several years ago..but there is videos for it
@@fixitFlip on mine i went to the pto lever and removed the switch so it cannot be pressed edit: i didnt remove off tractor i unscrewed from body and ziptied out of way
@@scootertuningfl2174 Ahh, thank you.
I've got a Troy-Bilt TB 30R (the smallest riding mower they make) - have had it for 6 years now and it's never given me a problem. I also have a TB push mower that I bought a couple years ago (replaced my Lawnboy, which the direct-drive broke after just one year).
I think those TB 30R mowers are pretty cool for smaller yards. Glad to hear you've had a good experience with it.
Just bought a used one last month, I got it looking like a new one, so far so good
Awesome man, good luck with it!
Thanks 👍 I couldn't believe how good it mowed
@@davidjohnson291 That's great, happy mowing!
I've got almost the same mower but mine is a bit older and I love doing lawn care and it makes the job way easier than yousing a push mower
I only have one camplat which is that when you go to work on the mower there is a flat metal plate
On the back of the mower and there is no way to take it off so you just have to work around it. But other than that I have no complaints about the mower.
Definitely easier than pushing it. I agree. I think if you take care of this mower, it will take care of you for the most part.
I’ve had mine for over 5 years and have had no problems . And you can easily mow in reverse. Just disconnect the safety plug and that’s it !
Yeah a few other people have suggested that. Simple fix!
Wow looks good, can’t believe you never had to replace the drive belt. I broke two of those mowers within a year. Much bigger property though. But still, it chewed threw a dozen belts, steel of the cutting deck failed and cracked where the spindles mount onto it. I ended up retiring one and used it for spare parts for the other.
Yeah, I keep thinking this will be the summer it goes, and then I'll check it and the belt isn't even fraying or anything. I don't get it. But I'm not complaining. Did you store it outside?
@@fixitFlip Amazing, glad it's going so well for you. You must be looking after it well. We had them stored in a shed. Honestly I don't why they failed so hard on us other than that we might worked them too hard. It was a big place, took roughly 10 hours to mow. I remember the big pulley under the seat that is part of the drive train failed too. The steel just cracked. Probably perfect for the size yard you got... nice and flat too. Cheers
@@AlexSwan Yeah I'd say you're probably right. I've heard of other people that had bad luck with them, too, so its not just you. But it sounds like you punish yours a little more than me. 10 hours is a lot of mowing. And nice channel you've got there. Cheers.
I have a 2008 Pony with the 17.5 hp Briggs . I still use it weekly. The engine starts and runs perfectly. I run Mobil 1 oil. I noticed a small crank shaft oil drip and replaced the shaft seal last year. While I had the machine out of service I replaced the blade spindles as a precaution. My only complaint involves scalping on ground that is not level. The scalping wheel kit is somewhat affective but has limitations probably because the kit is mounted on the rear of the deck. As long a parts are available I expect to get many many more years out of the mower.
Thanks for the input. I have thought about adding the anti-scalp wheels to mine, so interesting to hear!
I have a 2008 mower and I change the oil every winter. I only cost $5.00 to keep clean oil so it is a good way to prevent problem. I am in Florida so I run it all year. They are a great value.
I hate to admit this, but it is a testimonial to the 17.7hp B&S. I got mine in 2013 at Lowes. It had some carb work done on it so it was marked down to $1000, I offered the manager $800 and he took it. Now I have to admit I have not changed the oil, or any filters, and stored out side in Michigan. I have only a quarter acre to cut weekly. Other then changing blades, flat tires, battery, and a twice broken PTO cable, zero maintenance. Continues to do the job. I do check the oil level and top it off once with a couple ounces. I did buy a set of new belts, but they're on standby.
That's pretty unreal to last like that without even changing the oil. But I agree with you Bobby. A testament to the engine for sure. The new ones keep getting less and less HP.
In the spring of 2019 I bought a brand new 42" Bronco version of the same tractor mower. I used it to mow about 3 acres one to two times a week for the first summer. Within about seven trips out, the PTO cable snapped. It's a tiny cable, so with some much heavier cable guided by a copper tube, I fabri-cobbled a heavy duty fix. Aside from that, the mower performed fantastically. I was surprised at the amount of abuse it could take in the form of speed, tall grass, and finding things in the grass. I usually mow at 2" or so. This acreage was previously owned by a scrap metal guy and for the first month I hit all manner of cables, steel, tarps, and whatnot hidden in the grass. Only a handful of times did something actually stall the engine. I would also like to add, unless the stick is of a certain size, I run them over and this mower took that punishment with ease. I got caught mowing after a dark a lot, so I added rock lights to the frame and back and some cheap-o LED lights to the front so I could see. I also added a digital voltage display to monitor any possible problems with the additional lighting, and there were none. The electrical system seems robust enough to handle small additions (19+ volts with no accessories at full throttle and no lower than 14.5 volts with everything on at full throttle). It's a good mower for $1,200.
I agree it's good for the price. I've thought about adding the LED lights as well. Sounds like you have a pretty nice setup going now. And fabri-cobbled is my new favorite word. Thank you for that. I think I do a lot of fabri-cobbling.
So happy watched video! Have 2021 Pony 42 it is really fast, now I know how to slow it down. Its powerful bought a TSC
Glad I could help out and hope you're enjoying the new Pony!
I just got the pony 42x and so far only complaint is when u let off the break the engagement is pretty harsh. Idk if that will calm down over time but still for the price it was the best mower.
I agree. Can’t beat the price. I was hoping to hear from somebody with the X. Interesting about the break. What do u think of the Troy-Bill engine so far?
@@fixitFlip just used it for the first time yesterday and it does a pretty damn good job mowing. Cuts nice and even without having to adjust the deck any. Through some tall grass the engine did bog down some but never seemed like it was gonna die. Only issue is my legs arnt very long and when I have to depress the brake I have to lean forward (even with the seat adjusted to the shortest position) alot and if the blade is engaged the mower tries to cutoff.....never had this issue on other mowers unless there is a way to adjust the brake pedal distance I guess I'll just have to live with it.
Thank you for the video. I have the pony x with the Toro 547cc engine, I've run it less than 100 hours, but so far so good.
Interesting. Thanks for commenting. You're the first person I've heard from that has one of those!
Does not having a floating deck cause you any problems? Our ground can get bumpy because of some recent construction. Thanks for the video
The main thing it will cause is just increased wear and tear at the attachment points. Just make sure to stay on top of keeping things lubed.
At the end of the day for $1000 bucks, you can't beat it. Yeah, to a certain extent there's a lot of junk you can buy out there as far as lawn & garden equipment goes but proper maintenance, oil changes, winterizing, proper storage you can really make that $1000 go a long way. I love to buy fancy stuff too but for a cheap 42" deck, it does well. I used to cut with a old john deere riding mower from the 90s that was sold as an "economy" option in Sears. It was sold under the Scotts brand or the Sabre brand, but it was the cheapest john deere mower you can get in 1997 and my neighbor used it up until a few years ago and I bought it for $100 used it for five years. Why not.
That’s awesome. I agree with you, take care of your stuff properly and it will last a long time!
I have used this model since 2011 and changed the belt once.
Yep. Impressive lifespan!
Not a bad mower for the money. I paid roughly $1000 for mine in 2012. In hindsight, I'd have bought something a bit nicer. The deck is okay, but really needs the anti-scalp wheels on it. Not the easiest thing to take off and put back on, but isn't big of a hassle if you're mechanically inclined, or can watch a few of the UA-cam videos out there. I've had issues with the deck not being level and the steering wearing out (steering shaft, steering gear, etc) The steering is caused by a hill that I mow where I have to lean to one side which puts a lot of pressure on the steering and then a couple of tight turns. One of the main complaints about this is the steering and the issue there is mainly caused by the hard left/right steering and the hills. My chief complaint is the deck and frame don't seem to be very heavy (maybe 14 gauge?, if it were 12 or 13 gauge, it might feel a bit stiffer and not as "cheap"..) Overall, for $1000-ish bucks, you really can't go wrong. It's been reliable outside of a few repairs and is probably the best deal you money can buy if you're looking for a no frills, simple, cheap (if money is a factor in your purchase) mower out there.
I agree with pretty much everything you said here. And I've heard of other people having issues with the steering like you. I have thought about adding the anti-scalp wheels. Maybe this summer.
You made a video several years ago regarding using Gator blades on your Troy Bilt. I just got the same mower and I am wondering if the extra width and weight of those wider Gator blades may cause too much strain on the engine. I know that I accidently installed the wrong size blades on a Craftsman mower once and I think it did some kind of damage to the engine but I am just guessing about that. I just wondered if you have an opinion about this as I would really like to try those blades when it comes time for me to change/sharpen blades on this new mower. Thank you. Very helpful videos!
Thank you for the kind words. I can tell you that I still use those exact same blades to this day and I have had no issues. I actually just sharpened them a couple weeks ago when I did my deck repainting video. I will never go back.
I guess this is going to be the closest I can find on your channel to what I am trying to figure out. I have a year older model (2011) that has been working great but developed a problem this year that I can't figure out. I've fixed lots of things on the mower, and do the general maintenance myself, but diagnostics isn't my strong suit. The mower starts fine, really easily, but while it runs, it has this very odd rev / fading problem. It's very cyclic, seems to slow down or speed up depending on the speed of the engine and the fade part of the cycle actually feels like it's dragging on the engine. If this thing was a 4 cylinder engine, I'd say one spark plug was bad, but it's only got one! I cleaned out the carburator, changed the fuel filter and air filter, changed the oil at the end of last year, and got it a new battery (not related, it just needed one). I'm reading about something called a flywheel key and wondering if, a,) does this machine have one, and b.) would a sheared one cause this kind of behavior? As far as I know, this mower hasn't hit any immovable objects, something I read can cause a sheared flywheel key, but it's usually operated by my 20 y.o. son and anything is possible.
Then again, I may be on the totally wrong track. Do you know of any other issue that might cause this kind of behavior? I'm afraid I just can't resist trying to pick the brain of someone who has this same mower. :p Sorry.
Also on this machine, have you ever had to tighten the clutch / brake cable? I figured I'd ask if you had any pointers to offer on that repair. No worries if you haven't. I will just keep looking. Thanks!!!
Lady forester electric fuel solenoid under fuel bowl was causing my problem of the day.
Thank you so much for the video! Have you heard of much problems with vibration from the mower deck?
I haven't experienced that, but it sounds like maybe blades that aren't balanced or a deck belt that's worn out.
Bought a 2008 model and only changed oil and replaced blades still running great on .95 tenths acre yard will always buy Troy Built
I've been happy with mine. Glad you've had the same experience!
About to buy one in great shape tomorrow. What would u consider a good price for this? I'd appreciate any input
How old is it? Mine's a 2012 and I paid $900 brand new if that helps you. I think if it's in great shape and you can get it for $600 that would be a great deal.
@@fixitFlip okay man thank you so much fr. This ones a 12 I think as well for 650. I know the guy pretty well and he repairs mowers and flips them. Just wanted to make sure that was a decent price. I'm going to go get it tomorrow
@@chasec3139 Awesome man, good luck with it. Mine has served me well.
Mine cuts in reverse without any issues. I eliminated all that safety junk because I like to get done when I mow and I also don’t have to disengage the blades if I decide to get off of it while they are engaged. Mine is also fixing to get a 24 horsepower twin cylinder on it.
Very nice. Yeah those safety features aren’t too tough to undo.
My 1st troybuilt riding mower lasted 12 years .I got a new one today love it seat so soft .love it so much.easy to understand love that not hard to do.
That's awesome, glad to hear it! The new seat sounds nice.
It wouldve lasted longer than 12 years I left it out in the rain and the winter time. my fault.just needed new battery.gave it to my brother n law.
@@angiemitchell2748 Yeah that makes a big difference keeping it outdoors or indoors.
That’s funny! A thousand dollar mower that that sells for $2100 at Lowe’s in 2024. I like Troy-Bilt. They’re fairly easy to fix when they do break even, though they may break a little more often. However, they’re cheap and easy to fix. I just purchased one that is refurbished and has a rebuilt Craftsman branded Briggs & Stratton 18 hp Intek with an oil filter that has been rebuilt. Only paid $600 with it being refurbished and having new belts, a one-year-old battery and that engine, which is awesome. Mine is a Pony as well. They used market for Roddy lawnmowers is doing very well. People refuse to pay over $2000 for a 42 inch cut machine.
Yep, the prices today are laughable. And the product keeps getting worse.
I have the same mower, I disconnected the reverse shut off safety switch under the frame near the left rear tire so I can mow in reverse. I also disconnected the switch under the seat to be able to hop off while the blades are still spinning and it stay running. I know it is not safe but I’m careful😂
Those are probably some serious time savers right there!
A small gas tank is a plus with ethanol gas the shelf life is about 30 days better to keep adding fresh gas often.
You can pull the safety feature off it’s located under the back of the mower then you can cut in reverse I did it to mine
Yes, that's correct.
Thank you for your terrific, detailed videos. Can you tell me, is there a way to add no-scalp wheels to this mower? I got mine use (same exact model as yours) and I noticed my lawn is brownish after the first cut. (just bought last week) and I also saw someone that showed on a different video that the front tip of the mower is supposed to be higher than the rear. You show in your other video of - How to Level the Deck, that the front should be lower than the rear. Can you please confirm and explain why ? Thank you again so much., just trying to learn.
Thank you! Sure, you could add a univeral MTD set of wheels or something like this from Troy-Bilt www.troybilt.com/en_US/tires-and-wheels/deck-wheel-kit/OEM-190-183.html
Just have to drill a couple holes. If your yard was a little brown you could be cutting it too low. I would cut it with the highest setting on this mower. And your blades will cut better if they are slanted forward. In other words, the front of the mower should be pitched lower than the back about 1/8 inch.
I cut on '4'. Forget2 or 3, my Craftsman LT1500 is the exact same thing. Had it 10yrs no belts changed or 'Sparker'. Still a runner.
I just picked one of these things up for short money (a super low hour 2013 model) all it needed was some spindles and belts. However it scalps the absolute hell out of my lawn even on the highest deck setting! Granted my yard is far from flat and level, but this thing as absolutely useless. Trying to install anti scalp wheels on it this week but it’s not going to be easy as the wheel kits don’t fit the post 2009 models and the brackets put the wheels where they interfere with the front mower wheels and the bagger tube. Going to have to fabricate some brackets and weld them on as this deck doesn’t have any place to attach the anti scalp wheels. Anyway I’m not sure they will help.
Yeah I hear ya. All riders should come with deck wheels. I do have a video on leveling the deck for this mower if that helps.
there is a little wire where the blade engaging lever is , if you remove that wire it'll cut in reverse :/ also you can buy pass the "person siting on it " the same way . just 2 little wires and unplug :/ iv done it on my troybuilt xp horse , mtd
Good tips 👍🏻
Thank you for the video.
No problem.
I have the troy-bilt pony 2010 model. I got it from my sister that had a bad motor. It was a 17.5 hp bs . I had an old craftsman with a good 15.5 horsepower Kohler Command engine that ran real good so I put it in there and used it for a couple of years and it finally died so I got one of those Harbor Freight 22 horsepower engines and put in it and it is a beast now I use it to Bush Hog tall fields and I use it also to cut all my other properties because I didn't want to wear out my new Craftsman mower on everybody else's stuff I did also some modifications to it. I welded a bumper on it and put me a harbor freight light bar kit on it so I can cut at night but I have no other problems with it the deck was in good shape it was like new when I got it and I have not had to change anything but maybe a belt and blades. also put the tractor tires on the back because I cut a lot of low property where it is wet to keep me from getting stuck other than that I have no complaints about it It is not as smooth of a ride as either of my craftsman mower and not a tighter turn but put in low gear and Bush hog all day long.
That's awesome man. I bet that thing look sweet with the bumper, light bar, and tractor tires on it!
I have a 2011 pony that I got via someone leaving it at my rental house.. I’ve been working on it for like a month because of all the problems it had.. I’ve replaced every belt on it cleaned and rebuilt the carb did a valve adjustment ect.. I don’t really like the build quality at all and you can tell that it was cheaper model. I quess they would be ok if you were careful with them (which my ex tenant must not have been 😂) & you maintained them, but currently mine is living up to the name (MTD; Multiple Problems Daily 😂)
Ha ha, yeah these models are definitely the bottom rung and you have to really take care of them if you want them to last. I have videos on all the drive belts, etc. if you need them.
Really useful video. I just came across them. I recently purchased the snow blade attachment period in the docks that came with it, there seems to be a requirement to remove the decklid. Is this necessary?
Thank you. Decklid? Never heard of it.
@@fixitFlip you can tell I'm new at this. I meant the mower deck
@@RobertInFlorida Ahh, ha ha. Gotcha. I have never used a snow blade attachment, honestly, so I can't say for sure if you need to take the deck off. But if you do, I have a video on how to do it. It's not too difficult: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html
Can you add scalp wheels to this model, or have you even considered it? I just bought one today and I have a hill that got scalped...lol
I have considered it but haven't done it yet. You definitely can. They sell universal MTD scalp wheel sets that you can install pretty easily.
I love MTD products. Not a fan of their Cub Cadet's and hydrostatic transmissions in general, but the rest of their products are really nice. My Yard Machine that I purchased in 2002 still runs very well. I recently got a new Troy-Bilt Bronco last August to replace my Yard Machine because the mowing deck on my Yard Machine had multiple holes in it. I took the deck off and use my Yard Machine for plowing my driveway in the winter now. I had vibrations from the mowing deck of my new Troy-Bilt when I first used it, so I changed out the blades to see if that was the issue and it was. Must be one of the new blades weren't balanced properly.
Very cool. And you are probably right, if one of your blades is off, it can really make that deck wobble. Heard it from many people. What kind of engine does your new Bronco have in it?
@@fixitFlip I went with the Briggs & Stratton. I have always had excellent luck with those. I'm not too familiar with the Kohler engines. What was rather odd, the Troy-Bilt with the Kohler engine was $200 more than the one with the Briggs & Stratton, yet the Briggs & Stratton has 1HP more than the Kohler engine. Both mowers are identical other than the engines.
@@Sandman1832 ?? Interesting. I would have figured it would go the other way as well. I've had no problems with Briggs over the years.
@@Sandman1832 the one with Kohler engine costs more because it is supposedly better quality of an engine
I purchased a used one that was maintained. All year up until now it worked great. I mow awhile and then it just shuts down.stops. I wait a few minutes, it starts up, I go a short distance and it shuts off again to the point I can’t restart it. Is something over heating? Is it not getting enough fuel ? I am not mechanically handy but would like to save $ fixing it myself. Thank you.
Sounds like your coil is bad, our John Deere with the Briggs did the same thing. Replaced the coil and never did it again.
@@chuckm8472 thanks
Great video!
Thank you!
Have a 1995 that runs. Got another that I am not sure of the age. It needs a tune up. Cannot complain.
That's awesome.
You can mow in reverse look under the back and unplug the wire.
Good tip.
Enjoyed the video and I was wondering if you can use 30 weight or 10w30 oil. What's the difference?
10w 30 is better for colder weather.
I bought a Troy Bilt in 2008 a d still cutting with it, but it has been the worse mower I have ever had before constantly working on it like the spindles, belts, bearings, blades, the deck started cracking, so I had to weld it the hood of the mower had to be welded where it was separating nothing, but repairs all the time, but engine has done well no complaints.
very helpful! would this handle plowing snow?
I don't think the engine is powerful enough unfortunately! Or lets put it this way. It can handle it, but it might not last as long if you put this kind of strain on it.
Check you tension arm and always make sure all spindle, pullies and arm tension bolts are tight because after 3 years I had to buy both bushings and arm for mine. The bolt came lose enough to rock up and down and beat grooves in the arm and both bushings. The tension pully would lift up and down about 1 inch and I didn't catch it in time. Al way check them at least once a month while using it. The tension pully should be as tight as the other pullies .Hope this helps somebody...GOD bless!!!
Great tip, thank you!
Question... I watched your deck leveling video. Whenever I try to adjust the front of the deck, the left side (sitting on the mower) raises up considerably before the right side (chute side.) Its throwing the left/right level off. Doesn't help to adjust the front/back level as it only lets the back down. Hope you can make sense sense of what Im trying to say lol. Any suggestions? Its the 13AN77KG 2008. Thanks.
I can honestly say I've never heard of that one. I would have to look under it. Is something bent somewhere??
@@fixitFlip I was thinking maybe the adjustment rod was bent somehow, so I got a new one. Still has the same problem. I haven't hit or ran over anything with the deck. I set the back level using the 1/2" bolt and big brass nut. When I try to adjust the front, the left side starts raising, but the chute side won't until the left side gets up to about 2". I found this conversation on a google search..
What causes the left side on the front of the deck to be lower than the right side?
VW asked on 2019-05-28
Hi VW. Thank you for your question. If you are finding that the deck is lower on the left side, it could be caused by a number of things. This could be caused as a result of the blades either being worn down too far, damaged or they are not sharpened. The blades may also not be installed correctly. The deck could be either not levelled correctly or the deck is clogged with clippings. The deck shell could be damaged and needs to be replaced or the mower spindle may be bent or loose. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
I don't really see the blades could cause this as one wouldn't be heavy enough to throw the deck off. I don't see how the spindles could affect it unless it was only doing it with the blades engaged. I removed the deck and cleaned it really well. No visible signs of damage to the deck at all. The deck is hanging correctly not jammed up anywhere. Sorry for the long post, but I'm stumped.
@@joseywales7930 Yeah I think when they are talking about the blades being bent or worn down and spindles loos and yada yada, what they mean is that most people will measure the deck height off the blades. So if your blade is bent or banged up or spindle is loos, it's going to measure off. That's really not a reason to make actually BE off, just would make it measure off. Can you just do the front to back leveling first, then the side to side to even it out?
Where is the manual bypass control to allow you to push the mower manually without the rear wheels being locked???
This doesn't have one of those like new models. Just put it in neutral and push!
@@fixitFlip thanks. It must have just been stuck in gear from sitting for awhile. I knew I had been able to push it before but couldn't yesterday. Went back out this morning, shifted F-N-R several times while trying to move. Suddenly, the last time in neutral it was free wheeling...
@@mike65120 Good, glad you finally got her moving!
Briggs & Staton are great engines - the manufacturing plant in Statesboro, GA - gives a $5000 Christmas Bonus to employees - based on Warranty Returns - so the employees are determined to produce good solid engines. Plus the engines are easy to get parts and make repairs to.
I had a Honda - the carburetor kept condensing water - and would freeze and crack in the winter.
Wow, I didn't know that about their bonuses based on warranty returns. That's really cool!
@@fixitFlip And it works.
@@2DanTube I'm sure it does. That's an amazing business plan! Genius really.
@@fixitFlip Yep - I think so... wish I could get a job in a place like that. Capitalism at its best.
Much appreciated!
Yeah buddy!
Nice video...nice lines on the cut as well
Thank you!
I have this same year and model.
It's a beast!
I bought same model in 2013 but today hit a stump after 7 years and now blades don't engage and manual PTO is move freely. Do you have a video about that.
I do not have a video on that specifically. But if you watch my "Deck Removal" video here: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html
I show where the PTO is and how it hooks up. You can use that to compare to yours and see what is possibly disconnected or bent.
I have one starts every year. Have had to change battery. I tried to raise the deck. It is really not that easy. See if you can actually level the deck. I had a real fight. The I can only cut my lawn at the highest setting. I would like to make it more adjustable. Have any ideas.
I do have a video on leveling the deck but unfortunately they do not cut very high. I have to cut with mine on the highest setting.
My deck leveling video:
ua-cam.com/video/Gu4fdaegaIA/v-deo.html
it’s really easy to adjust the deck with the rod in front and/or the bolt on the left back side of deck
Psst! Theres a little plug at the rear passenger wheel, you unplug it and you can cut in reverse. At least on my 2009 there is. Zip tie it up so it doesn't get caught in anything.
Thank you.
@@fixitFlip I checked on this yesterday and it’s actually the left side wheel the driver side if you’re sitting on the mower.
@@robertelmo7736 Awesome, thank you for that.
Question..... do you know what part number is the discharge chute, for this specific model? Thank you in advance.
This should work. www.troybilt.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/discharge-chute-deflector/631-05191A.html
I’ve had my troy Bilt pony for nine years got a brand new in 2014 I am now having an issue with the steering rod/drag link and the nut holding it down is stripped for some reason it won’t come off or even tighten down
I got a new 2019 Troy bilt pony I had for 4 months now and I love it I cut 3 acres with it and it does fine but how do you know when you're at your 50 hours for your old change it don'ts come with hour meter?
You can buy an hour meter and add it on, but I just kind of keep track. I know it takes me about an hour to cut my grass, and I cut it about once a week. So that would be good for 50 mows. But I don't cut mine any where near 50 times a season, so I just typically change my oil every spring, and I know I am way under the 50 hour limit.
if you're mowing weekly @ 1 hr/session in a 6 month growing season, every other season would reach the 50 hr mark. save $ and effort by changing it every other season (oil filtered mowers only)
You're suppose to change the oil within the first 5 hours.
@@norge696 correct
Considering buying one -- Cant believe you haven't changed the battery, as my Husquvarna is every six months! I'm hating it.
Every 6 months?!?! That is not right.
I know! I keep it under a shed, not in a garage but the battery life is so bad and now it is broken down in my back yard. I'm watching videos to see how to fix it. And believe me, I'm 70 so mechanical stuff just is not my thing. @@fixitFlip
You have had great luck with yours I have the same one didn’t have as good luck lol but I’m going to pick a new one today so hopefully I will have the luck you have lol thanks for video
Ha ha well good luck with the new one. Hope that one works out for you.
Did you get another pony ?
I got a 2017 Pony it has been good mower . it has got stuck between forward & reverse a few times , last summer the brake was getting stuck you break and let off be going slow for 30 foot them it take off , the 2 small pins on the break need to be greased every other season 20 minute fix .
Interesting, thanks for the tip. I'm sure it will happen to me at some point.
Hey man, what’s the part number for the air filter and fuel filter?? I just got one from my neighbor and it needs some TLC.
My fuel filter video: ua-cam.com/video/BfRl1ANUrX4/v-deo.html
My air filter video: ua-cam.com/video/_hvkqRwH2-o/v-deo.html
Each video has the part you need linked in the description!
@@fixitFlip thank you! I’ll be sure to like them both
@@thaddeusibarra4308 Thanks, I appreciate it!
@@fixitFlip I’m having problems getting part numbers for it.....and every time I type Troybilt in the PC it takes me to their website (which is like taking your car to the dealership) so that’s what I’m struggling with at the moment. I have to admit that I’m happy that I own it and it was free but so far, the parts numbers hunt isn’t going well. 😂
@@thaddeusibarra4308 I'm not sure about the exact part # but here is a link to buy fuel filter on Amazon: amzn.to/2vZ9mD9
And here's one to buy the air filter on amazon: amzn.to/2LaGLzx
Have you ever attached a dethatcher to it?
I have not.
I've seen reviews and comparisons to the higher Bronco model. They indicate the extra few hundred dollars for the Bronco is worth it.
The way the current models are and how much the Pony has been downgraded in quality, I would 100% agree. If I were purchasing tomorrow, would get nothing less than the Bronco.
Thanks again!
No problem!
Any idea how to lubricate the front axles mines pretty tight about two years newer than yours? Thanks
Yeah mine has a little zerk fitting inside each front wheel that you can attach a grease gun too and grease. Or you can just take each wheel off and grease the axel.
just curious, when you wash it, do you just turn the hose on the whole thing or do you just wipe down certain parts?
I wash the whole thing and let it dry good before starting it, I've never had any problems doing it that way myself
I wash the whole thing and let it dry off good before starting it
I had to replace the bearings on the spindles last year. Mine is a 2012. The main complaint I have is the cut height, numbers 1,2, & 3 are useless, #4 is the lowest I can go and I mostly use #5. Perhaps the linkage is set up wrong. I've set the wheels up with the recommended tire pressure. Can anyone tell me what the minimum and maximum blade height is for this mower? That would give me a good starting point.
I can tell you mine is the exact same way. I normally cut mine only on #5. Occasionally on 4, but have to be careful not to scalp on turns. I think they just set them too low personally.
@@fixitFlip I've been looking at the geometry and trying to figure out what I can do to change it without over inflating my tires or getting larger tires. My blades are about a quarter inch from the bottom of my deck. I think I have to shorten the front rod, however the bracket to the body isn't very thick and I suspect that it will bend if I tighten it too much. But that seems like the easiest way to raise the deck.
I'm going to tighten it all the way and see where my deck height is at, then go from there.
I think the design the front deck hanger system and it's length is to allow the two rear brackets to raise the entire deck by applying tension to the front hanger and maintains a level deck. It does this by actually moving the deck slightly towards the rear as it elevates. But I don't think that the front mounting bracket is strong enough to shorten the rod enough to make the #1 thru #3 settings useful.
@@andone555 Yeah, and I have heard other people mention this very issue. I probably should have included this in my review.
I have one mine was manufactured January 20th 2013 I just changed the blades on mine this last Sunday and the blaze were eat up I dread having to change the belts there is a wire on the left side rear that you can unplug and cut grass backwards I was going to fix mine that way.My coworker came to my house with some longer wrenches to get my blades off,and then Last Monday I went to Home Depot to buy new blades and I put them on.
Yeah I have thought about disconnecting that wire as well. Have you ever changed the drive belts? Or just deck belt?
@@fixitFlip No but I would hate to,I hate to remove that deck.You removed the deck before,I know you can do it.
Invest in a breaker bar along with a steel pipe, they'll come off like butter.
This video was really helpful.
Thanks, I'm glad I could help.
Nicely done
Thank you!
Cool video but let's talk about the white elephant in the room. That deck is NOT EASY to take off nor is it easy to INSTALL. There is a molded cable that is real tricky to mess with and it requires a pin to run through it. I would avoid removing the deck by yourself at all costs.
No it is not super easy! I wouldn't call it difficult, but I would say it is rather annoying. Here's my video on how to do it: ua-cam.com/video/tKNqokiNo00/v-deo.html
i bought mine brand new in 2015. I've went through 2 belts 2 pto cables, pulley weld snapped off. it's been nothing but problems for me
Geez. Sorry to hear you've had bad luck with yours.
Thank you for sharing.
No problem!
Can you add anti-scalp wheels to this model?
Absolutely!
Theses are pretty good mowers if you do proper maintenance and keep it out of the weather
Yep, those are the 2 keys right there.
Why does the mower catcher plug up if it it not on a higher speed.
I love mine too but Iam a little rough on it though. But I need to change the deck
Ha ha most people are. I'm probably a little on the OCD side lol.
8 years speak Volumes, no major cost? huge saving there
Agreed!
Hello,...I need your help. Got a new Pony 2 months ago and now I have it in the shop for maintenance. From day one the motor & Pony drove great,..but as soon as I engaged the deck the vibration was just too excessive. I took it back and got a 2nd one and it did the exact same thing. No one at Troy could provide any help. I took it to Maint. yard yesterday and I expect a call soon. The shop was mostly closed down and only 1 kid about 20 years old. He didn't look like he knew much,..just doing the paper work. The problem could be blades out of balance, or a dozen other things with the deck. Other deals just said it is the cheap Chineese mfg. Just standing next to the mower I can move the deck side to side by 3+ inches. When I drive it the cutting deck seams to surge faster then slower almost like a bad carborator but when I drive it without engaging the deck it is as smooth as you would ever want. Please help. My last mower was a Yard Machine and lasted 20 years until I had a shop work on it and it never ran again. Which there was a way I could contact you for help.
I have never experienced what you are discussing but I'm sorry you're having problems. I did a little research and found this video: ua-cam.com/video/m4G9mi4_gzA/v-deo.html
It seems like several other people in the comments are experiencing similar problems. Maybe you could reach out to him and see if he figured it out? There are also ideas in the comments.
My briggs and stratton is 40 years old and still runs strong
Heck yeah!
Whats the valve setting, igot a 500 cc power bilt.
The hood on the old tractor is 3 parts two sides and hood and oh yeah the grill I fixed
i just got me one but not use on the year i was told by my friend its a 2-11 but the seat says 2013 and under the hood says 2011
I’ve seen that before. They piece different parts in the factory. Either a newer seat was put on or it’s a 2013 with a few older parts put on.
How the horsepower?
17.5 hp I don't know if you can tell from the video but my yard is one big hill. I've had it 10 years now and never had any issues zipping up the hill. Very pleased.
it’s a 500 cc briggs. More than enough power for a 42” deck