My humidifier was incorrectly installed by HVAC tech (6 years ago!) and didn't work until I watched this video and re-wired it correctly. Very helpful.
I bought this controller and wired it according to the book. No power was getting to the solenoid so I called Honeywell. They had me take the 24V hot lead and touch it to both U wires, then just to one U wire. They claimed my solenoid was bad. This was the weirdest troubleshooting experience I've ever had. I asked if the 24V should be transferred to the U contacts when calling for humidity and they said yes. Clearly Honeywell tech support has no idea what they are talking about. Thanks for the video - now it makes sense.
Brand new furnace and A/C 5 months ago. Since the weather change in NJ , house was always less than 20% humidity but controller set to 40% . Added jumper now works like it should. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the video, I tried installing it this way and it works, But i think the correct way to do this is to run your r/c 24v power to the humidistat. I then took a 3rd wire from furnace that controls heat, I believe it is Y, I ran that to the first U contact point. I then took both humidifier wires i ran one to the bottom U contact point and the other to the common on top. The advantage is that the humidistat does not shut off every time the heat shuts off but will still only run when needed when the heater is running.
Correct this is how it should be done. The humidipro should always stay on, so you can see the humidity level.. And did they forego the bypass duct for the humidifier, it sure looks like it needs one.
Correct this is how it should be done. The humidipro should always stay on, so you can see the humidity level.. And did they forego the bypass duct for the humidifier, it sure looks like it needs one.
Thank you! Why the manual didn’t mention this is beyond belief. In addition, which they would have included the jumper in the install kit. Thermostat wire would have been nice as well
Why can’t the stinkin manual tell us this? Sheesh!!! Thanks for posting. I just bought the house with the humidistat installed, and I’m pretty sure it never worked. The prior homeowner was trying to run a dehumidifier with it. I discovered the dehumidifier was set to always on and I think I know why now.
This jumper wire worked for me. I have an older furnace with a stand alone transformer that powered an old humidifier. I connected it just like u sad to get the solenoid to open and it worked! I couldn't find this method anywhere else on the internet. the down side is that the humidistat only will be on when the fan is running.
Haha! Dry contact because there isn't any voltage behind either terminal, but yes, it's normally open. That way for a powered humidifier you just put the low voltage wires right on, they only need to be closed to make the humidifier run. For instances where you need 24v to hit the solenoid, you have to put 24v constant power to one side of the "dry contact". The other side of the contact, along with a 24v common will make the solenoid. Thanks for watching!
Jumping the cables as you did still allows to the humidistat to open and close the solenoid according to the humidity setting ( for example 30%)? Or the solenoid valve will be open every time that heat is call regarding the humidity setting?
I have a Honeywell HE300A1005 humidifier and am wondering if there would be a way to delay humidification until the fan has been on for enough time to get an accurate reading of the relative humidity on the return duct mounted HumidiPRO Digital humidity control? The return duct tends to get a false humidity reading for the house since the fresh air intake damper is connected to the return duct and brings fresh air into the house if a bath fan, range hood, or other venting appliance is running. This causes the humidifier to run at the beginning of almost every call for heat regardless of the outdoor air temperature because of the false reading.
Yeah, I have a HumidiPRO H6062A1000 installed in my house, only wish it was wired so when 1: The thermostat is switched to heat setting (fan is on Auto) and, 2: HumidiPRO calling for humidity regardless of the temperature, together the furnace fan starts and humidifier lets water pass. So, would I need to purchase a Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) Relay in order to achieve this configuration? I hope this makes sense...
Patrick Corcoran dude, for what you are saying the easiest answer is to take a two wire from your w and C terminals and run that directly to the solenoid at your humidifier. Abandon the control completely and that way when your thermostat closes R & W it will send 24 volts on W with common from C straight to your solenoid valve and open it for water flow for the whole time that the thermostat is calling for heat. Thanks for watching! Edit: if you want humidity control above and beyond what I've explained above, you can put a cheap humidistat on that 24 volt line and break the W with it
Patrick Corcoran haha okay after reading your comment again, I think I finally get what you're after. I can't tell you off the top of my head, but the general idea is that the control in the video will go in between the G from your thermostat which calls for fan and the furnace. That way this control will push the fan on at the furnace with a call for humidity. Like I said I don't have wiring diagram in front of me, but that is the way I set them up in the newer digital thermostats with built-in humidity control.
Okay, now I've got to sleep on this one. My mental circuits don't think as fast as yours. But yes, that's the idea, start the house fan and humidity even if the thermostat doesn't call for heat. Do I switch the water feed to the hot water supply too? Cold recirculating air may need the hot water, correct?
Hi, after I installed and test it with select 1 or 0, my humidiifer is run or stop are fine under test mode, but exit the test mode, I dont know how to use it, on the screen left side is 35% and right side is setting 8.. the buttom up and down just set from 1 to 10 on right side.. that's all I see .. I have try setting 1 or setting 10 is no respond with furnace heat is running .. i can't find any info to use the humidipro from the web after 2 days googling ..
The manual for this humidistat really does suck. It doesn't mention having to do this but if you look at the wiring diagrams (besides the very first one on page 7) it shows one leg of a transformer being wired to the top U contact (in every diagram) and one side of the humidifier wired to the lower U contact. It makes sense that the jumper would be needed if you're not wiring a transformer right to the U contacts.
Im about to install this same controller. I understand where c and r and the outside sensor go. But am confused about the 2 U's. I have a terminal labeled HUM, should that go to the top u? And the bottom U go to the humidifier relay switch? Then where does the other humidifer relay wire go?
shuumai with the way I've wired it in this instance, yes. First the heat has to be on, and second there has to be a demand for humidity before the humidifier is actually powered up.
Right. This gave me an idea for my old furnace (Snyder General from 1991). Just an on/off toggle switch to switch off the humidistat at the end of the season.
Even this video isn't really correct. The HumidiPRo instructions state the device should get constant 24VAC power and it should NOT be wired to the transformer. The jumper did nothing for me.
Did my 1st install, watched this video at home a day before. It went smoothly. Thank you
My humidifier was incorrectly installed by HVAC tech (6 years ago!) and didn't work until I watched this video and re-wired it correctly. Very helpful.
I bought this controller and wired it according to the book. No power was getting to the solenoid so I called Honeywell. They had me take the 24V hot lead and touch it to both U wires, then just to one U wire. They claimed my solenoid was bad. This was the weirdest troubleshooting experience I've ever had. I asked if the 24V should be transferred to the U contacts when calling for humidity and they said yes. Clearly Honeywell tech support has no idea what they are talking about. Thanks for the video - now it makes sense.
Brand new furnace and A/C 5 months ago. Since the weather change in NJ , house was always less than 20% humidity but controller set to 40% . Added jumper now works like it should. Thank you so much.
Thank you for this just installed this same unit on my furnace and was stumped as how to wire this thing. now i do much appreciated sir!
Wow this worked on my setup that uses a pressure switch. Amazing how the instructions for this are way off! Thank you for posting this video!
Thanks for the video, I tried installing it this way and it works, But i think the correct way to do this is to run your r/c 24v power to the humidistat. I then took a 3rd wire from furnace that controls heat, I believe it is Y, I ran that to the first U contact point. I then took both humidifier wires i ran one to the bottom U contact point and the other to the common on top. The advantage is that the humidistat does not shut off every time the heat shuts off but will still only run when needed when the heater is running.
Y is for cooling
Correct this is how it should be done. The humidipro should always stay on, so you can see the humidity level.. And did they forego the bypass duct for the humidifier, it sure looks like it needs one.
Correct this is how it should be done. The humidipro should always stay on, so you can see the humidity level.. And did they forego the bypass duct for the humidifier, it sure looks like it needs one.
You don’t need to do that the humidistat will recognize base on settings to turn on the humudify
Thank you! Why the manual didn’t mention this is beyond belief. In addition, which they would have included the jumper in the install kit. Thermostat wire would have been nice as well
Why can’t the stinkin manual tell us this? Sheesh!!! Thanks for posting. I just bought the house with the humidistat installed, and I’m pretty sure it never worked. The prior homeowner was trying to run a dehumidifier with it. I discovered the dehumidifier was set to always on and I think I know why now.
This jumper wire worked for me. I have an older furnace with a stand alone transformer that powered an old humidifier. I connected it just like u sad to get the solenoid to open and it worked! I couldn't find this method anywhere else on the internet. the down side is that the humidistat only will be on when the fan is running.
Have not heard the term dry contact before but I do know NO&NC. Cool, good stuff!
Haha! Dry contact because there isn't any voltage behind either terminal, but yes, it's normally open. That way for a powered humidifier you just put the low voltage wires right on, they only need to be closed to make the humidifier run. For instances where you need 24v to hit the solenoid, you have to put 24v constant power to one side of the "dry contact". The other side of the contact, along with a 24v common will make the solenoid.
Thanks for watching!
Jumping the cables as you did still allows to the humidistat to open and close the solenoid according to the humidity setting ( for example 30%)? Or the solenoid valve will be open every time that heat is call regarding the humidity setting?
Good video you saved my day.Thanks
Michael Racut thanks for watching!
I have a Honeywell HE300A1005 humidifier and am wondering if there would be a way to delay humidification until the fan has been on for enough time to get an accurate reading of the relative humidity on the return duct mounted HumidiPRO Digital humidity control? The return duct tends to get a false humidity reading for the house since the fresh air intake damper is connected to the return duct and brings fresh air into the house if a bath fan, range hood, or other venting appliance is running. This causes the humidifier to run at the beginning of almost every call for heat regardless of the outdoor air temperature because of the false reading.
Yeah, I have a HumidiPRO H6062A1000 installed in my house, only wish it was wired so when 1: The thermostat is switched to heat setting (fan is on Auto) and,
2: HumidiPRO calling for humidity regardless of the temperature,
together the furnace fan starts and humidifier lets water pass.
So, would I need to purchase a Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) Relay in order to achieve this configuration? I hope this makes sense...
Patrick Corcoran dude, for what you are saying the easiest answer is to take a two wire from your w and C terminals and run that directly to the solenoid at your humidifier. Abandon the control completely and that way when your thermostat closes R & W it will send 24 volts on W with common from C straight to your solenoid valve and open it for water flow for the whole time that the thermostat is calling for heat. Thanks for watching!
Edit: if you want humidity control above and beyond what I've explained above, you can put a cheap humidistat on that 24 volt line and break the W with it
I will pick your solution apart, give it a try and let you know how it goes. Many thanks for your reply.
Patrick Corcoran haha okay after reading your comment again, I think I finally get what you're after. I can't tell you off the top of my head, but the general idea is that the control in the video will go in between the G from your thermostat which calls for fan and the furnace. That way this control will push the fan on at the furnace with a call for humidity. Like I said I don't have wiring diagram in front of me, but that is the way I set them up in the newer digital thermostats with built-in humidity control.
This most recent scenario with the digital thermostat with built-in humidity control would also eliminate the control seen in this video
Okay, now I've got to sleep on this one. My mental circuits don't think as fast as yours. But yes, that's the idea, start the house fan and humidity even if the thermostat doesn't call for heat. Do I switch the water feed to the hot water supply too? Cold recirculating air may need the hot water, correct?
Hi, after I installed and test it with select 1 or 0, my humidiifer is run or stop are fine under test mode, but exit the test mode, I dont know how to use it, on the screen left side is 35% and right side is setting 8.. the buttom up and down just set from 1 to 10 on right side.. that's all I see .. I have try setting 1 or setting 10 is no respond with furnace heat is running .. i can't find any info to use the humidipro from the web after 2 days googling ..
The manual for this humidistat really does suck. It doesn't mention having to do this but if you look at the wiring diagrams (besides the very first one on page 7) it shows one leg of a transformer being wired to the top U contact (in every diagram) and one side of the humidifier wired to the lower U contact. It makes sense that the jumper would be needed if you're not wiring a transformer right to the U contacts.
Im about to install this same controller. I understand where c and r and the outside sensor go. But am confused about the 2 U's. I have a terminal labeled HUM, should that go to the top u? And the bottom U go to the humidifier relay switch? Then where does the other humidifer relay wire go?
great vid! i gave it a try but my humidipro is stuck on reading 99% humidity. How do I reset this? please and thanks!
does it accurately pick up the humidity being on for only a short run? I saw that you mentioned it always remmebers the setpoint? is this the case?
Jon L accurate? it's a Honeywell! of course it's accurate! and from what I've seen, it does remember the settings.
Thanks for watching!
Does the HumidiPro only power up when the heater switches on?
shuumai with the way I've wired it in this instance, yes. First the heat has to be on, and second there has to be a demand for humidity before the humidifier is actually powered up.
How does it keep it's settings between power ups? I just ordered an auto humidistat. Manual is only good for rising the windows.
shuumai I'm pretty sure it has an internal battery, it always seems to remember the setpoint
Right. This gave me an idea for my old furnace (Snyder General from 1991). Just an on/off toggle switch to switch off the humidistat at the end of the season.
shuumai ok thanks for watching!
Are you sure the U are always open? This doesn't follow the wiring instructions in the manual
depends on how you set up the control. I'm pretty sure it's N/O in factory setting.
Even this video isn't really correct. The HumidiPRo instructions state the device should get constant 24VAC power and it should NOT be wired to the transformer. The jumper did nothing for me.
You have it connected wrong, it needs constant 24v , it should be wired to the C&R on the control board.
It will get power in summer time as well. Wire it straight from the board HUM terminal.
@@mrtheloverboy89it is only powered when the furnace calls for the hum. Again it is not constant power.
Technical