Great idea on buying the new/stock distributor and adding the Pertronix upgrade. I’m adding the Pertronix module to my original distributor because the Pertronix distributors they offer with the features I wanted (i.e. rev limiter) didn’t come in a stock appearance. Your approach fixes that 😉
OMG I’m over here crying right now, Cam is my spirit animal. Jeff over here talking about how to properly secure the wiring harness isolator on the distributor, and I’m over here going “I’d just put a dollop of Black RTV……… cue Cam: Walks in and says “if it was me I’d just put a dollop of RTV. 😂✌️😂🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Thought yall got that motor cleaned up just a bit too quickly. Glad you clarified that was not the same motor. I put the petronix on my mustang when I first got her started after sitting for 20+ years. It was easy to install and worked great. I did the conversion mainly because trying to find new points was next to impossible locally. Heck most of the kids working in the parts store did not even know what points were. Thanks for sharing this one.
Try asking for points for a '66 289 Ford when it is installed in a '40 Ford Fordor. Gotta fill in all the boxrs on the glowing screen. What model? Ford. What model? Just Ford. Finally I say, "you want to go down the rabbit hole?" What model? 1940 Ford Fordor Deluxe, and it is Burgundy. Ford did not have a 289 in 1940. They had a 239 though. Good observation. Now find the 289 points. It is single point ignition. So eventually after bantering some more I say Fairlane. BINGO, we find points. What these kids are oblivious to is the fact all Ford single point V8 distributors at least since the introduction of the 221 and FE series and probably the Y blocks, used the same points. All dual point distributors used the same points as the inline six engines. I got tired of the game and put a Pertronix in. No ignition problem since. No more tweaking points.
@@MattsRageFitGaragePoints are not the part hard to find, a knowledgable parts counter person is. These days they can not find their way to the toilet if the glowing box does not tell them.
Don’t shoot me, but I put a GM style HEI distributor on the 240 in my ‘65 F100. I gave up looking for a points distributor with both mechanical and vacuum advance after a year.
Why buy a points distributor and then convert it , unless you just got it to demonstrate the conversion ? Otherwise just get a 1975 and up stock ford durospark, I got mine for like $69 (new) from Rock Auto. It came with the two piece cap already on it. I’m running a MSD box and coil, I run this set up on my last Ford 351w . It was a 57 Fairlane with a 351w and FMX transmission with the stock 57 3.12:1 rear end. The motor was running almost 9.5 compression with a Ford Motorsport cam and intake and Holley 4 brl. At the time I built it I didn’t realize how easy it was to get to electronic ignition so I installed a new points distributor. It run pretty good and seemed pretty snappy. If you stood on it from a stop it would spin the BFG’s a little but I had expected more . After several years I finally converted it over with the pre-mentioned set up, WOW what difference, it was like bolting on 50-75 more horse power. There was the power I had always expected out of that motor. Now if you stood on it it would roast those 27” tall BFG’s all the way through 1st gear.
I did it on my ‘70. Ran a wire from my ignition switch pig tail to the engine harness coil feed (red/green wire) replacing or bypassing the resistor wire (pink). Need to remember to hook this wire up to the (brown?) 12v starting feed wire from the starting solenoid.
What I’m really curious about is the plate in that distributor. It has a concentric vacuum advance movement rather than a side or plastic double pivot. Are those available separately? Who manufactures that distributor? Because of that plate, that distributor solves the dancing timing problem that has plagued ford since the double pivot plate came out in the late 70’s.
That distributor doesn't work with Pertronix, the shudder wheel doesn't fit properly, talked to them about it and the shaft size is not the same from Chinese factory to factory.
Yep I just went through the same crap today it wouldn't fit the magnet sleeve wouldn't fit right and the igniter itself didn't even fit correctly on the points plate
I did it on my ‘70. Ran a wire from my ignition switch pig tail to the engine harness coil feed (red/green wire) replacing or bypassing the resistor wire (pink). Need to remember to hook this wire up to the (brown?) 12v starting feed wire from the starting solenoid.
This is why UA-cam is so horrible. I'm subscribed, and never see your videos come up! True Blue Oval forever! You got a lot of videos I need to look at.
Good to know this is an option, i bought a NEW duraspark from "big parts store" and it was JUNK. Worse end play and run out than my old clapped out points distributor. It also had the added bonus of one of the pickup wires being shorted against the case (inside the isolator boot no less) and frying my new mallory box, so that was cool. Ended up buying a pertronix, not thrilled with the distributor really, somehow the weights are not returning to base at idle, but half the price of the may suddenly die. 351w roller. Do you find theres any truth to "spark jump" in the old points style caps running HEI? Also, the cap extension and cap i ordered for my 77 are light blue, so thats an option too.
Yep I just went through it today the igniter didn't fit right on the points plate and the magnet sleeve didn't either it wasn't far enough down and it was too loose
My 390 ran like crap with the ignitor 3 conversion. It would constantly miss. Runs like a top on points tho. I may try an actual pertronixs distributor later down the line. Had had 12v to coil and flamethrower 3 coil
I bought a pertronix flamethrower II for a 445 FE stroker and while it ran ok it didn't start for crap. The resistor wire was eliminated for a 12 volt power source also. Went around and around with pertronix tech and it passed all of their tests. I replaced it with a Summit racing billet ready to run distributor which is the same thing as a MSD distributor and still using the same power source, pertronix coil, same plugs and wires it starts explosively and even runs better with better throttle response. Same centrifugal advance curve between both distributors. If you're going to buy a new distributor buy the Summit distrubutor. The Pertronix was the poorest starting POS for $300 I've ever seen. I run a ball bearing dual point with vacuum advance breaker plate in my 390 in a stock replacement distributor in my other car and it starts and runs circles around that pertronix.
I will be installing pertronix ignitor in my 66 289 mustang distributor. I will be bypassing the wire resistor in my ignition circuit. My current coil reads 2 ohms. If I were to upgrade to a pertronix flame thrower coil, which one should I go to? 1.5 ohm, or 3.0 ohm? I'm thinking my current coil should do fine, just thinking ahead.. thanks!
Hey Kevin- for a V8 the correct coil is the 1.5 ohm version, and that’s also what Pertronix recommends. 3.0 is really just for 6-cylinder cars. Buried in their tech literature and in SOME of the installation instructions for their modules they have a table that tells you what to do with the ballast resistor depending on the primary circuit resistance of the coil you’re planning to use, just in case you didn’t buy the matched coil.
Always loved the 'Mushroom' Cap and still have it on both my 1971 Galaxie500 and the ole 72' F-250!
Great idea on buying the new/stock distributor and adding the Pertronix upgrade. I’m adding the Pertronix module to my original distributor because the Pertronix distributors they offer with the features I wanted (i.e. rev limiter) didn’t come in a stock appearance. Your approach fixes that 😉
Ignition module for my harley was hundreds of dollars. Upgrade module was many hundreds more. Converted it to point style for undre a hundred
OMG I’m over here crying right now, Cam is my spirit animal. Jeff over here talking about how to properly secure the wiring harness isolator on the distributor, and I’m over here going “I’d just put a dollop of Black RTV……… cue Cam: Walks in and says “if it was me I’d just put a dollop of RTV. 😂✌️😂🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Thought yall got that motor cleaned up just a bit too quickly. Glad you clarified that was not the same motor. I put the petronix on my mustang when I first got her started after sitting for 20+ years. It was easy to install and worked great. I did the conversion mainly because trying to find new points was next to impossible locally. Heck most of the kids working in the parts store did not even know what points were. Thanks for sharing this one.
Try asking for points for a '66 289 Ford when it is installed in a '40 Ford Fordor. Gotta fill in all the boxrs on the glowing screen.
What model?
Ford.
What model?
Just Ford.
Finally I say, "you want to go down the rabbit hole?"
What model?
1940 Ford Fordor Deluxe, and it is Burgundy.
Ford did not have a 289 in 1940. They had a 239 though.
Good observation. Now find the 289 points. It is single point ignition.
So eventually after bantering some more I say Fairlane. BINGO, we find points.
What these kids are oblivious to is the fact all Ford single point V8 distributors at least since the introduction of the 221 and FE series and probably the Y blocks, used the same points. All dual point distributors used the same points as the inline six engines.
I got tired of the game and put a Pertronix in. No ignition problem since. No more tweaking points.
@@daledavies2334 Motorcraft DP12, BWD/Borg Warner A101V, Standard FD8183V single points 1957-1974 Ford V8. Not hard to find.
@@MattsRageFitGaragePoints are not the part hard to find, a knowledgable parts counter person is. These days they can not find their way to the toilet if the glowing box does not tell them.
@@daledavies2334 I just tell them the part number of what I want it's never been an issue for me but I usually buy them online and buy NOS if I can.
Don’t shoot me, but I put a GM style HEI distributor on the 240 in my ‘65 F100. I gave up looking for a points distributor with both mechanical and vacuum advance after a year.
Yeah you got mine in february and it went out in june
Why buy a points distributor and then convert it , unless you just got it to demonstrate the conversion ? Otherwise just get a 1975 and up stock ford durospark, I got mine for like $69 (new) from Rock Auto. It came with the two piece cap already on it. I’m running a MSD box and coil, I run this set up on my last Ford 351w . It was a 57 Fairlane with a 351w and FMX transmission with the stock 57 3.12:1 rear end. The motor was running almost 9.5 compression with a Ford Motorsport cam and intake and Holley 4 brl. At the time I built it I didn’t realize how easy it was to get to electronic ignition so I installed a new points distributor. It run pretty good and seemed pretty snappy. If you stood on it from a stop it would spin the BFG’s a little but I had expected more . After several years I finally converted it over with the pre-mentioned set up, WOW what difference, it was like bolting on 50-75 more horse power. There was the power I had always expected out of that motor. Now if you stood on it it would roast those 27” tall BFG’s all the way through 1st gear.
I agree .Duraspark works great.I installed it on my 68 Lincoln Continental 460.
I'm a lucky one apparently. I bought the Pertronix billet distributor when it was only $180. Damn they went up.
Would be interesting to look into replacing the resistor wire.
I did it on my ‘70. Ran a wire from my ignition switch pig tail to the engine harness coil feed (red/green wire) replacing or bypassing the resistor wire (pink). Need to remember to hook this wire up to the (brown?) 12v starting feed wire from the starting solenoid.
@@graemepaul8748 thank you. This is good info.
Thanks from Australia
Welcome!
Thanks for the video to the point and fit for purpose
You bet
What's the part number for that base plate?
What I’m really curious about is the plate in that distributor. It has a concentric vacuum advance movement rather than a side or plastic double pivot. Are those available separately?
Who manufactures that distributor? Because of that plate, that distributor solves the dancing timing problem that has plagued ford since the double pivot plate came out in the late 70’s.
Never seen a performance gain with h.e.i. of any kind.
That distributor doesn't work with Pertronix, the shudder wheel doesn't fit properly, talked to them about it and the shaft size is not the same from Chinese factory to factory.
And their Doug's Headers are poorly made knockoffs from Mexico.
I had that issue with an aftermarket distributor the magnet sleeve was too loose on the lobed part of the shaft. That sleeve needs to well tight.
Yep I just went through the same crap today it wouldn't fit the magnet sleeve wouldn't fit right and the igniter itself didn't even fit correctly on the points plate
Can you talk about installing the pertronix on fords with the pink resistive wire or ballast resistor
I did it on my ‘70. Ran a wire from my ignition switch pig tail to the engine harness coil feed (red/green wire) replacing or bypassing the resistor wire (pink). Need to remember to hook this wire up to the (brown?) 12v starting feed wire from the starting solenoid.
This is why UA-cam is so horrible.
I'm subscribed, and never see your videos come up! True Blue Oval forever!
You got a lot of videos I need to look at.
Good to know this is an option, i bought a NEW duraspark from "big parts store" and it was JUNK. Worse end play and run out than my old clapped out points distributor. It also had the added bonus of one of the pickup wires being shorted against the case (inside the isolator boot no less) and frying my new mallory box, so that was cool. Ended up buying a pertronix, not thrilled with the distributor really, somehow the weights are not returning to base at idle, but half the price of the may suddenly die. 351w roller. Do you find theres any truth to "spark jump" in the old points style caps running HEI? Also, the cap extension and cap i ordered for my 77 are light blue, so thats an option too.
Been down that electronic ignition road several times. Points are more reliable!
Another perfect explanation 👌 👏
Why not just use the better igniter II better and no word about leaving a key on
What advance strategy does the distributor come with?
It’s funny because when you look on the website at this part number
It states specifically that the pertronix will not fit
Hmm
But it did...
Yep I just went through it today the igniter didn't fit right on the points plate and the magnet sleeve didn't either it wasn't far enough down and it was too loose
My 390 ran like crap with the ignitor 3 conversion. It would constantly miss. Runs like a top on points tho. I may try an actual pertronixs distributor later down the line. Had had 12v to coil and flamethrower 3 coil
Still have points in the 390 with the early big cap and base. Clips right on. Just had to cjange up the wires to fit the new cap.
I bought a pertronix flamethrower II for a 445 FE stroker and while it ran ok it didn't start for crap. The resistor wire was eliminated for a 12 volt power source also. Went around and around with pertronix tech and it passed all of their tests. I replaced it with a Summit racing billet ready to run distributor which is the same thing as a MSD distributor and still using the same power source, pertronix coil, same plugs and wires it starts explosively and even runs better with better throttle response. Same centrifugal advance curve between both distributors. If you're going to buy a new distributor buy the Summit distrubutor. The Pertronix was the poorest starting POS for $300 I've ever seen. I run a ball bearing dual point with vacuum advance breaker plate in my 390 in a stock replacement distributor in my other car and it starts and runs circles around that pertronix.
Ive heard of people needing to re jet their carb after the ignitor 3 install. You might give that a try if your car isn't running right with it.
Will this still run after an EMP?
I love that bigger cap. Is that larger cap available with the female style connectors? Why not just upgrade it to a DSII?
I will be installing pertronix ignitor in my 66 289 mustang distributor. I will be bypassing the wire resistor in my ignition circuit. My current coil reads 2 ohms. If I were to upgrade to a pertronix flame thrower coil, which one should I go to? 1.5 ohm, or 3.0 ohm? I'm thinking my current coil should do fine, just thinking ahead.. thanks!
Hey Kevin- for a V8 the correct coil is the 1.5 ohm version, and that’s also what Pertronix recommends. 3.0 is really just for 6-cylinder cars. Buried in their tech literature and in SOME of the installation instructions for their modules they have a table that tells you what to do with the ballast resistor depending on the primary circuit resistance of the coil you’re planning to use, just in case you didn’t buy the matched coil.
Full mechanical advanced distributor only for me,,forget the vacuum advance...
Is Pertronix reliable .
$88.00 for the complete replacement HEI for my BBC.
instead of the big,ugly ford cap, i use an IH cap, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AL482 with a standard ford rotor. much cleaner looking under the hood.
Never been able to find one of those. Everywhere lists them but I can't put my hands on one.
Chlamydia. Hmmmmm. Don't you get that from eating too many bearded clams? Or just the wrong one? 😂
High voltage and electronics are a recipe for disaster.
Wouldn't buy anything from Pertronix.
How come? Is there an electronic ignition product you like better?
What's wrong with Pertronix? Are you boycotting or just have had bad luck with them? Thanks
New parts does not mean better parts especially with everything being made in china. Used original can be better than new Chinese stuff..
WTF is on your elbow? Man, go get that looked at!
I have bursitis, which is an arthritic condition. Not really all that painful but expensive to fix.