Why don't they install a bus bar for the neutral and grounds? Using wire nut is stupid in my opinion. It looks stupid using wire nuts. It would make the unit cost more. But I would pay the extra price. For a unit that didn't require wire nuts. You hear me MFG. I do like the fact that you made this video.
Agreed this would be a nicety. In the absence of that, I prefer "lever nuts" instead of wire nuts. Makes adding or replacing thinks MUCH MUCH simpler, and takes up less space.
Good day and thank you for the ideas and comments. We are always working on continuous improvement for all of our products. I will be sure to pass along to our product managers. With that being said, one of the improvements to the Switching relays and the Zone Valve Controllers was to make bigger enclosures to allow for more room for the wiring recently.
In the instance where you have two system circulators, you want to use a switching relay, the SR502. This relay will handle 2 circulators as well as turning on the boiler as needed. pulse.ly/h7zgbbb8ij
You will want to use the -EXP models using the expansion terminal on both control boards. To find those details on wiring, please take a look here pulse.ly/j7wcdhjrv1starting on page 33.
I'm trying to find out if I'm using ASCO red hat solenoid valves for my zone valves, and they have two red wires and a ground, do I need to connect them to ZVC zone valve ports 1&2 or 3&4 or 1&3 or some other configuration? Please help!
Hello Philip, a quick search on my end shows that the ASCO makes alot of different red hat solenoid valves. What model ASCO valve are you using? I would need to look up the suggested wiring from their instruction sheet. However based upon the description that you gave me, you would use the terminals 1 and 2, that has the 24 volt power. Terminals 3 & 4 are endswitch wires which you don't have on the ASCO
Hello, I wired a three zone Taco control panel and 3 taco zone valves. I accidentally mis-wired zone valve terminal 1 and 3 to the zone control on zone 1. Did it fry that zone control on the zone control board? I was exhausted and accidentally wired blue white red instead of red white blue. Now that zone refuses to open even after it was corrected. I tried another zone valve head and no difference, I can only imagine it is the board. Is it repairable? the other 2 zones are working fine.
What if I have no zone valve and just want to turn on the circulator from the thermostat do I just add a jumper wire on the terminal 3&4 on the zone valve board
Am I missing something, or did scenarios 2 or 3 miss wiring up the DHW demand (zone 4) aquastat? If not, how does the control know when there's DHM demand??
Thanks John and Bucky, this video was created to show how to wire just the circulators to a Zone Valve Controller. The rest is covered in the instruction manuals. The demand for DHW would come from an aquastat that would be installed in the indirect tank and it would wire the same as a thermostat to the Zone Valve Controller.
@Areildny, yes the aquastat is typically wired to the last terminal on the Switching Relays and the Zone Valve Controllers. Even though the wires are not red and white, use the terminals R and W. We want to use the endswitch wire from the aquastat, not the 120v side. If yours is only 120v, you will need an isolation relay. Here is the complete wiring guide www.tacocomfort.com/documents/FileLibrary/100-92.pdf
So if I were to use a honeywell 4 wire zone valve 2 red which are end switches and 2 yellow wires the 2 red wires go to 3 and 4 and the yellows go to 1 and 2 on zone valve control board?
You are correct, the zone valve power is labeled terminals 1 and 2 (yellow wires typically) and the endswitch terminals are labeled 3 and 4 (red wires typically). Honeywell typically denotes the wire colors this way. Make sure to check the instructions for any other types of zone valves and follow suit.
Awesome video, great details, exactly what I needed .
We are glad it was helpful!
Why don't they install a bus bar for the neutral and grounds? Using wire nut is stupid in my opinion. It looks stupid using wire nuts. It would make the unit cost more. But I would pay the extra price. For a unit that didn't require wire nuts. You hear me MFG. I do like the fact that you made this video.
Agreed this would be a nicety. In the absence of that, I prefer "lever nuts" instead of wire nuts. Makes adding or replacing thinks MUCH MUCH simpler, and takes up less space.
Good day and thank you for the ideas and comments. We are always working on continuous improvement for all of our products. I will be sure to pass along to our product managers. With that being said, one of the improvements to the Switching relays and the Zone Valve Controllers was to make bigger enclosures to allow for more room for the wiring recently.
Very helpful
I have questions
How to wiring 2 system circulator ?
In the instance where you have two system circulators, you want to use a switching relay, the SR502. This relay will handle 2 circulators as well as turning on the boiler as needed.
pulse.ly/h7zgbbb8ij
Do you guys have a video how to wire 2 boards together? One being a master and one as a slave using one circulator?
You will want to use the -EXP models using the expansion terminal on both control boards. To find those details on wiring, please take a look here pulse.ly/j7wcdhjrv1starting on page 33.
I'm trying to find out if I'm using ASCO red hat solenoid valves for my zone valves, and they have two red wires and a ground, do I need to connect them to ZVC zone valve ports 1&2 or 3&4 or 1&3 or some other configuration? Please help!
Hello Philip, a quick search on my end shows that the ASCO makes alot of different red hat solenoid valves.
What model ASCO valve are you using? I would need to look up the suggested wiring from their instruction sheet. However based upon the description that you gave me, you would use the terminals 1 and 2, that has the 24 volt power. Terminals 3 & 4 are endswitch wires which you don't have on the ASCO
Hello, I wired a three zone Taco control panel and 3 taco zone valves. I accidentally mis-wired zone valve terminal 1 and 3 to the zone control on zone 1. Did it fry that zone control on the zone control board? I was exhausted and accidentally wired blue white red instead of red white blue. Now that zone refuses to open even after it was corrected. I tried another zone valve head and no difference, I can only imagine it is the board. Is it repairable? the other 2 zones are working fine.
What if I have no zone valve and just want to turn on the circulator from the thermostat do I just add a jumper wire on the terminal 3&4 on the zone valve board
James, that is correct, we need to complete the endswitch signal in order for the pump relay to close on the Zone Valve Controllers.
Am I missing something, or did scenarios 2 or 3 miss wiring up the DHW demand (zone 4) aquastat? If not, how does the control know when there's DHM demand??
Yes, I agree. This video is incorrect.
And because of that, I am looking into comments to see if someone else is in doubt about it. Best Regards... p.s. detail documentation is a must
Thanks John and Bucky, this video was created to show how to wire just the circulators to a Zone Valve Controller. The rest is covered in the instruction manuals. The demand for DHW would come from an aquastat that would be installed in the indirect tank and it would wire the same as a thermostat to the Zone Valve Controller.
so where do you wire the domestic hot water aquastat? to zone 4 control r and w? and what if this aquastat is rated for 120v?
@Areildny, yes the aquastat is typically wired to the last terminal on the Switching Relays and the Zone Valve Controllers. Even though the wires are not red and white, use the terminals R and W. We want to use the endswitch wire from the aquastat, not the 120v side. If yours is only 120v, you will need an isolation relay. Here is the complete wiring guide www.tacocomfort.com/documents/FileLibrary/100-92.pdf
@@TacoHVACtv ok thank you very much!
So if I were to use a honeywell 4 wire zone valve 2 red which are end switches and 2 yellow wires the 2 red wires go to 3 and 4 and the yellows go to 1 and 2 on zone valve control board?
Yes, end switches go to 3,4
You are correct, the zone valve power is labeled terminals 1 and 2 (yellow wires typically) and the endswitch terminals are labeled 3 and 4 (red wires typically). Honeywell typically denotes the wire colors this way. Make sure to check the instructions for any other types of zone valves and follow suit.
It's a pity on the SR502 ETC.. relays the thermostat loops don't have enough current to pick up a Honeywell V8043E zone valve.
I wish it could control 3 circulators to 3 separate zones.
Christopher Kennedy look for the taco sr 403
You ca
@@johnnylightning1967, how?
@@coatknight Taco SR503
@@Eldeibi84 thanks. That is the one I ended up installing. Do you know whether I need to use resistors if I want to use the com line?
Wire 3 erie zone valve together
Nothing! Beats these relays.
Amen!