Hi everyone - It's come to my attention that there has been someone masquerading as myself, responding to some comments here with a link to a Telegram chat to win a prize from me. THIS IS A SCAM, I am not holding a contest, nor do I have a Telegram account. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO THESE MESSAGES!! It's happening on a lot of my videos, I'm taking steps to remove them manually, but as I have 162 videos, it will take some time. If you do run across a suspicious comment, I would appreciate you letting me know at info@dronebotworkshop.com. Thanks! Bill (The real one!)
Very impressive display of tools. A must for me is a magnifying glass combined with some good light. I also use a solder suction fan because I don't like the fumes when soldering. My working area is limited, hence I'm still looking for a good solution to store the tools.
High precision cutters for small wires for less than $8 ! I have been using nail clippers for the past 40 years+. I even found some with a 45 degree straight cut that are fantastic. They do a perfect cut with very little force, as good as any top of the line cutters for small wires. If you nick the blades just buy another set. They last for years+++ if you don’t use excessive force the blades will stay A+. Your videos are soooooooo precious, and are of superb quality both artistically and content wise.
24:28 - Add tweezers with ceramic tip. Good for not shorting things, and good for smd soldering, heat dissipated quickly to work longer and they never bend.
A Label maker can help out a lot if in the budget. Use for a number of things. Not only to ID parts like resistors in bins. I use it on the power supply blocks for whatever it comes with, so I don't get the wrong supply for the tool or whatever it came with. Label block with the item, voltage, amp, and the + - in or side. Mine is a brother brand that even has some electrical symbols built in to print, it can also be connected to my computer by printer cable for even more custom printed labels. There are also several tape colors to choose from, with black lettering or white lettering. There are different types of tape also, like for cables. Different tape sizes also depending on the label maker. Tape off brand names also available to cut the tape cost down some. I really like your work station layout with the colored peg board, and bins.
I recently bought a wireless label printer. The phone app that comes with it can do fonts, sizes, background images, templates, etc. Amazing leap of capabilities.
Missed a couple letters. brother P touch PT-2700... I just looked it up. Seen a few listed on eBay. Amazon seller.. way to high price even if never used. Over 400.00. Reason I bought this one at the time. The keyboard layout more like a computer/ type writer, (I'm old. LOL.) it will take the PTouch cartrage , available in different widths and colors. One drawback, is if you don't change the setting for the label it will run out like .75 to 1 inch of blank end tape to start. Even on the lowest setting it will still chop off a little. Can use the chain setup and print several with no cut in-between each to save tape, just hand cut yourself with scissors. I'm sure there's better now. Saw one the other day that's wireless, has no keyboard. It was a brother also it used the smaller cartridges through
As always. Great content and delivery for all levels. The tool I use quite a lot is a pair of USB magnifying glasses with a light. Helps me see small electronics up close with great clarity and still have both hands free.
I didn't even know what a nibbler was until I saw your previous video about nibbing. That thing changed my life. Hands down one of my favorite purchases. As I always find, very educational video and very interesting. I always learn so much from watching your videos, thank you tremendously.
I have an old "nibbling " tool that is made by Makita and is 120volt. It cuts a round ended slot about 3/8' dia as it moves forward. I got it 20 years ago for some project that I don't remember. It worked well but you have to watch out for the fingernail size metal clippings that came out of it. I used it on steel panels. His hand tool would be much more controllable for electronic work.
@40:00 For drilling PCB, there are PCB drills usually used in a CNC router's collet. They are short, more rigid, and relatively cheap, and come in very fine sizes. @44:00 Hot guns as part of a soldering/reflow station are very handy for soldering/desoldering as well as heat shrink tubing, are temperature controlled, come with a rest that does automatic on/cool down-to-off.
Great video as always! It should also be noted that (Japanese) metric Phillips screws heads are different. A "regular" Phillips screw driver is slightly different. It will kind of fit and even work, but it IS different. 22 gauge solid wire works best for breadboards. Get a roll of white and use Sharpie markers to color code if you're cheap. I like to use standard color codes. Ex. Brown =1 Red=2 etc. Colored wire REALLY helps diagnose a circuit. Also, I'm here to talk as many people as I can out of buying 63/37 solder. It doesn't flow worth a crap and is brittle. It hardens with a dull finish as well. Stick to 60/40.
You mentioned an air compressor for large shops but those are the larger air compressors. There are small ones, smaller than standard computer case, aimed at the airbrushing market that would work very well for cleaning electronic components with compressed air. It would then allow one the ability to airbrush cases, etch glass (with a sandblasting kit), and more.
I'm a subscriber and I really like the quality of ALL of your videos. They're professional, informative and very interesting. You present the material in a "digestible" way. Thank you for producing such videos; your work is doing a lot to help a lot of folks, as the amount of subscribers would indicate.
As someone who is into IT things, i think an ESD Band is essential. A magneticer for the screwdriver is useful. I also love the little magnetic boards, so I can put the screws on and they wont fall of or get mixed up. Even to know where to put it back. There are a lot of tools to open displays, like heatmats. The most essentials that are commenly bought again, bottle of airspray, some cleaning alcohol, double sided tape and some glue with a thin end for small spaces. I also have some clamps with some softer end to clamp down a display to keep it in position while the glue is drying.
I would like to add the absolute necessity of magnetized screwdrivers (and nut drivers, at that). Plus I´d really like to have a motorized screwdriver some time....
One thing I found out as I worked on long breadboard projects is that I really prefer keychain multitool pliers for fine control work. Like the Leatherman squirt. The handle is so short that it lines up with the base of the thumb. This makes it easier to apply horizontal force as well as the pinching motion. They are fun tools to keep around too.
Well, I had everything shown except the vampliers which I never heard of, and the adapter for raspberry pi to breadboard. I could have used those vampliers numerous times, but didn't know such a tool existed. Just ordered the 5 piece set. The one thing I would add is Donegan Optivisor magnifier. I like the DA-5 strength for soldering. One other tip is if you get the little 3rd hand or other solder helpers, put shrink tubing over the alligator clips to keep them from damaging small wires. One last thing. It is probably too pricey unless you do a lot of soldering, but the Hakko FS301 desoldering gun is a game changer. It is hard to describe how much better this tool is than just using desoldering wick.
What adapter for the raspberry pi to breadboard would you recommend? I literally don't even have a breadboard yet, only a pico w pre soldered. But anything that helps sounds great to me. Thanks so much in advance.
Thanks for this informative video! I would like to mention that the crosshead type screwdrivers (at 5:16) need to be differentiated, if you don't want to mangle the screw heads: Phillips (Ph) and Pozidriv (Pz). At first glance they look very similar but are not really interchangeable. If you insist to use crosshead screws for a project instead of Torx, I suggest to prefer the Pz type.
20:44 These wire snippers are a bit dangerous (use safety glasses!) the blades sometimes break and shoot away. 35:59 You CAN stop/abort the crimp process by lifting the little ratchet arm between the handles.
Service people in the security realm that have to inventory tools many times a day, find the multiple bit kits nice since every bit has a space it fits. Easy to see if anything is missing.🙂
The first wire stripper that you showed can be adjusted for a particular size of wire by by loosening the screw and moving the screw up the handle until it stops the opening from closing anymore
Great video like always, I wanted to say for people just starting out that some tools are an absolute necessity while others can wait. Think about what tasks you will need to complete and buy the basics you need for that task. As you get more experienced add to what you already have purchased. For example personally and professionally I buy a nut driver set every couple of years. I end up loosing pieces of it then having to buy another set. The funny part is I really never use them. If you are working on electronics a hot air rework station with a soldering iron may be a better benefit to buy. It gives you power on the soldering iron up to 80 watts. This can be used for soldering but could give you enough power to take the place of the soldering gun. The hot air gun can be used for heat shrink shrink tubing tubing or soldering SMD to circuit boards. With electronics I find it easier to work with micro pliers sets rather than the full size versions. If you are on a budget the Husky Brand is better than the Kobalt brand. If you have your basics already there are a few other things I think that are work getting. 1) The drill press adapter for the rotary tools. 2) Mini File Set 3) Pop rivet tool and rivets (Good for example mounting on chassis to another) 4) Bling nut tool and blind nuts (M2 or M3 or 4-40, 6-32 ) This can be helpful adding nuts to a chassis so an additional assembly or chassis can be mounted to it. 5) An over head light is good with a magnifier for board holders. Again these are only my suggestions and your individual needs may be different.
I also built a heating table for PCB reflow, and found it also helps the soldering iron to deal with Wifi/Bluetooth modules which suck up heat but also have fine pitch.
If you use a hot air rework station (seen at 27:32): To hold the hand piece I use a standard microphone boom stand, the ‘T’ type, and use a standard microphone clip, the spring loaded type, to hold the hand unit at the end of the ‘T’ section. The microphone clip fits like a glove on almost any standard hot air hand unit and gives you a perfect position and frees your hands so you can have the tweezers ready to grab the device to be removed. When soldering a surface mount component: When I solder a new surface mount device I put some Kapton tape (or even scotch tape will work) to hold the device. While holding the device with my fingers at both ends of the tape, I perfectly align it with the pads and when properly aligned I then stick the ends of the tape to the board just for the time to solder one single pin. If the alignment needs a ‘micro nudge’ to fit perfectly, with the single pin connected, ‘unstick’ the tape from the board, you can get a compensation of a few mils just by holding the tape by both ends and with a very gentle force improve the alignment, stick the tape back onto the board, and then solder the opposing end pin on the device, remove the tape and finish soldering the remaining pins. The remaining pins will keep the ideal alignment held by the first two pins you soldered while you solder the remaining ones. Even if you melt the scotch tape a bit no big deal, you remove it when finished.
Best electronics tool I ever bought is an automatic wire stripper for only around $10. Seems to be available under many different brands and none, but most recognizable is Kaiweets KWS-114. Wish I'd had it earlier in my career! Would not use one of the types that depend on two handed operation and pulling your hands apart, skinned far too many knuckles that way!
20:22 These kind of wire strippers generally has a nut and a bolt attached to the slot, by adjusting it you can choose how far the cutting blades would go.
I just had to tell you about my favorite soldering iron. It’s the TCS100 available online. I got mine from Amazon. It is very light, programmable and relatively inexpensive. I have a digital soldering station that I got from Radio Shack years ago and I love it, but I needed something more portable. The TCS100 fits the bill for me. It works on a variety of voltages, but I use 24 volts which is the max it can use. At first I used it on my model railroad because of the ability to quickly move around in tight places. Later I built a power supply that uses two 18 volt batteries and a constant voltage module with a current limit. It holds all my tips and supplies as well as providing two binding posts for a portable power supply for testing in the field.
Dang, I'm looking forward to getting soldering under my belt as a skill. Good to know where to look when one needs a good (yet expensive ish) soldering unit...thanks tz222zt
@@veryfinedankn3187 If you are new at his and not sure what you are going to be doing, you don't need to spend a fortune. If you are going to mostly be doing things at home, I would recommend a soldering station over one of the pencil type. Sure there are features on some of the more expensive ones that are nice, but not really a must have. You should be able to find something decent in the $50-80 dollar range. Look for something with a digital temp display, as I find that really useful. Cost is relative. My Thermaltronics station was around $250, which sounds really expensive, but I bought it because it was about half the price of a Metcal with similar technology.. It's not so much that it does a better job of actually soldering, as it is some convenience features that I like. You don't need anything remotely like that starting out.
In the same view as the telescopic magnet, fire wall tools (kind of like the yellow grabby thing except 2-3' long and flexible) are really useful for about $5. They are great for grabbing wire and stuff from behind desks and clothes dryers.
Thank you - really helpfull to get it on a row! Most wellknown to me, though. In my toolbox I also keep a bunch of non-orthodox "tools:" perhaps funny, but all of them have occasionally helped me (or others) out more than once! A (few) spoke(s) from a bicycle-wheel. It is stronger than coathanger-wire and has a handy hook at the end, to pull a string or anything through a hole or a tube. With a wooden coffee-stiring stick (1,1 x 5,7 mm and 15 cm long ) I glued some narrow strips of sanding-paper - both sides + both ends makes 4 different grids of them. I cut it down to fit in the cover of my mobile-phone, so I allways have something handy to clean corroded contacts or sand-down broken nails etc. Some tubes (?) of C.A. glue, twoo-component epoxy glue and wood glue comes in handy once in a while. A few small bottles of cleaning-petrol, aceton, White spirit, cleaning vinager and (denaturated) alcohol to clean something that need that. As a Repair Café repair guy, these things incidentally make me populariteit with my friends/colleges! B7t it makes me carry a 35 kg rugsack to these meetings!
Such a great resource! Years ago there was a channel called Electronics Trivia that had a number of great discussions on e-tools. Sadly, they've since been deleted. One note on cutters: I've become a big fan of the type equipped with silicone "- lips" that hold the cutoffs so they are less likely fly into your eyes or ventilation holes in electrical equipment.
Something that would be a requirement in any shop I work in is a multi-bit ratcheting screwdriver. (Meaning that I would bring in my own to work if it wasn't supplied.) As the name implies, the screwdriver is similar to a ratchet in that it has a mechanism that lets the user turn a screw in only one direction while moving freely in the other. Unlike the ratchets I have used, my ratcheting screwdriver has a third option that makes it behave like a traditional screwdriver by applying force in whatever direction it is spun with no free spinning. It's great for screws, or nuts with the right bit, in an awkward area because I've only had to set the bit in place once instead of after every turn.
Thank you for making this an article too. I can easily enjoy the video without having to take screenshots or copy information. Certainly high quality and good (as in not evil) youtuber. Rare on this platform.
21:00 another concern with snippers is that the tips of cheaper ones can break(I have seen them snap cutting PLA 3D Printer filament) sending that little sharp piece of metal flying. If you got a cheap set for free with something like a 3D printer toss them and spend $10-15 on a set that isn't going to be dangerous.
Another excellent informative video , thank you ... I know it goes unmentioned but it looks like a lot of effort is put into your color coordination . Looks great 🔵
I have a non-magnetic gripper, it look like your magnet but it has four prongs mounted to a cable on a spring. grips the screw and does not find a way to stick to the steel chassis.
54:55 Yes, you can do the proto boards yourself, but not for the Uno form factor, since there is a half-offset in the pins :/ but for those, there are plenty to buy
Good video as usual. Concerning screwdrivers, there are two types of "cross" drivers: Phillips and Pozidrive. It is important to use the correct screwdriver corresponding to the screw.
Another great video! I sometimes think my shop and tolls are 50% of the fun of the hobby. I like the personas you used, and thanks for the checklists - I will use them for consolidation so I can localize the tool collection in one spot (or 2).
Thanks for another really fantastic video. I like your array of high quality USB cables, hookup wire, and organizer boxes. I would LOVE to support local electronics stores Buying locally also supports my compulsion for instant gratification. Sadly, even in a relatively large metro area like Portland, OR, I'm hard-pressed to find a good hobbyist electronics store. (Any thoughts welcome!)
Great video.. this stuff is very often over looked.. (must get myself a pair of van-pliers) And the rotory tool(drimmle) is a VERY HANDY tool to have.. well worth having anyway. 😊
A very good video and much appreciated! Has made me review my collection of 'random' tools and devices to form a more cohesive and accessible system? All the very Best Wishes for the coming year.
Thanks. I plan to purchase a couple of items you mentioned. I have a magnifying stand. It has a magnifying glass with a ring of light and room for a third hand on the base beneath the glass.
Hello dronebot, Magnetic Helping Hands ( 1:04:28 ): I read on the net that the alligator clips are NOT strong enough, NOT durable. What is your experience with your model? The most basic so-called “third-hand” was frustrating to work with.
How about adding some straight and curved hemostats. These work even better than needle nose pliets since they will lock in position. I use mine a lot.
Never heard it called a "nibbing" tool. First I purchased, 1977 or so, was a "nibbling" tool. Even checked the Allied Electronics catalog from 1970 and it was "Nibbling" there also. A good online resource for tools these days is Micromark. Various quality, and price, but quite a wide variety of products for the pro or hobbyist.
100% It was _always_ referred to as a "nibbler". As a matter of fact, if you go to the article, then follow the link to buy one, the listing is for a "Nibbling tool" - with an "L".
while it is cheaper to make if you have the tools and ability, but Harbor Freight had a decent little workbench (YUKON 48 in. Workbench with Light) that has shelf, drawers, and pegboard back, and light at top which is nice for projects :)
Whatever else you need, I've always thought there are three tools to start with: a pair of snips, a pair of small-nosed pliers and a small flat-blade screwdriver. You might need other tools too, but you'll always need those three.
The libraries of HuskyLens doesn't work with Arduino R4, but only with R3. Do you know how can I make it work or if there is a more powerful proccesor that is compatible wtih HuskyLens?
Bought most of my hand tools on special at Canadian Tire too. The rest at Abra Electronics. Question: What software are you using to do your presentations? PowerPoint? Or simply on the video editing software?
I would like to know more about your workbench. Looks interesting. What kind of tools are built in there? I see a HDMI connector, USB, maybe an audio amp and speakers? Did you build it yourself? I'm currently redesigning my workshop and looking for ideas
You never mentioned an oscilloscope, and Logic Probe. If you are both into electronics or automobile repair, they can be very useful when tuning RF circuitry. Or even if you are trouble shooting Microcontroller circuits for PWM signal frequencies or logic in a circuit if it is high or low. There are some with prices of $200 or less that work quite well for the applications. You can even use an oscilloscope as a Tach Dwell meter for automobiles.
oscilloscope and/or DMM are good choices as well. =D watching youtube, but a computer helps as well for searching the interwebs and also creating files and accessing controllers through IO Ports, etc.
Thank you very much for the Video , Can you please make one for equipment's too !! maybe Oscilloscope , signal generators , wave generators , power supply ..... etc. //
Hahaha. I'm cleaning now and my lab has grown from a 12x12 room to that and the vacant apartment in my basement having 2 lasers, few printers, paint booth, rock tumbler, cnc, an aftermarket hobby grade rc upgrade parts hoard, second repair bench with scope, meters, multiple soldering stations, guitar repair, wife's craft area and a sim racing setup. My main lab is for writing and recording technical death metal and improv jazz, multiple scopes and monitors, current favorite guitars, over 100k leds of all types. Gaming pc with atmos and oled. I'm not bragging, there are much nicer setups than mine. Mine is better than dbots shop but that's not a knock. When I was new his tutorials were invaluable. I retired young and had a software engineering degree I done very well in but did not use for 20 years. I send free learning kits to people in Canada or the us if some hasn't got the means. I ask no questions other than get overly excited and make a kit based on what the person is interested in. Alot of the tools can be found for wildly different prices so shop around.
It’s funny, but that 100- piece bit set in the red plastic case has been sold by various (usually overseas) vendors under different names for nearly 20 years. I’ve purchased 3 or 4 of them, sometimes donating them to a shop I’m working at, and most recently, I gave my son a set recently. Unbeatable bargain, and needed in every one’s toolbox.
Sweet! Thanks! Ever since Frys left Vegas I've been bummed because I only had a chance to check it out a few times, but now that I'm really trying to immerse myself in hardware and learning a few cpu languages I'm really regretting not taking advantage of it earlier. But it's great to hear that harbor freight is seemingly a decent spot to grab a few items. Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated! tz222zt
I'm surprised you didn't at least mention Japanese Industrial Standard when talking about bits for people doing service. If you're working on Japanese electronics at all you need a JIS set or you're going to continually wonder why you keep stripping out what you think are standard Phillips head screws.
Hi everyone - It's come to my attention that there has been someone masquerading as myself, responding to some comments here with a link to a Telegram chat to win a prize from me. THIS IS A SCAM, I am not holding a contest, nor do I have a Telegram account. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO THESE MESSAGES!!
It's happening on a lot of my videos, I'm taking steps to remove them manually, but as I have 162 videos, it will take some time. If you do run across a suspicious comment, I would appreciate you letting me know at info@dronebotworkshop.com.
Thanks!
Bill (The real one!)
Very impressive display of tools. A must for me is a magnifying glass combined with some good light. I also use a solder suction fan because I don't like the fumes when soldering. My working area is limited, hence I'm still looking for a good solution to store the tools.
Your comment about the magnifying glass and good light made me laugh. I am in the same boat LOL...
I've bought the same shitty magnifying glass with a light 3 times because it keeps failing, but it's so so useful
I use a USB microscope with a ring light, which helps with soldering small ICs, Wifi modules, etc. I didn't get much out of magnifying glasses.
High precision cutters for small wires for less than $8 !
I have been using nail clippers for the past 40 years+.
I even found some with a 45 degree straight cut that are fantastic.
They do a perfect cut with very little force, as good as any top of the line cutters for small wires.
If you nick the blades just buy another set. They last for years+++ if you don’t use excessive force the blades will stay A+.
Your videos are soooooooo precious, and are of superb quality both artistically and content wise.
24:28 - Add tweezers with ceramic tip. Good for not shorting things, and good for smd soldering, heat dissipated quickly to work longer and they never bend.
A Label maker can help out a lot if in the budget. Use for a number of things. Not only to ID parts like resistors in bins. I use it on the power supply blocks for whatever it comes with, so I don't get the wrong supply for the tool or whatever it came with. Label block with the item, voltage, amp, and the + - in or side. Mine is a brother brand that even has some electrical symbols built in to print, it can also be connected to my computer by printer cable for even more custom printed labels. There are also several tape colors to choose from, with black lettering or white lettering. There are different types of tape also, like for cables. Different tape sizes also depending on the label maker. Tape off brand names also available to cut the tape cost down some.
I really like your work station layout with the colored peg board, and bins.
I recently bought a wireless label printer. The phone app that comes with it can do fonts, sizes, background images, templates, etc. Amazing leap of capabilities.
Nice! Forgot about this on my "to get" list thanks for reminding me.
David which product did you end up buying? Which end of the $ spectrum did you go for? Any info is appreciated...thanks
The one I bought is several years old now. Its the. brother P touch 2700
Price I don't recall, but I bought it at Staples, probably on sale.
Missed a couple letters. brother P touch PT-2700... I just looked it up. Seen a few listed on eBay. Amazon seller.. way to high price even if never used. Over 400.00. Reason I bought this one at the time. The keyboard layout more like a computer/ type writer, (I'm old. LOL.)
it will take the PTouch cartrage , available in different widths and colors. One drawback, is if you don't change the setting for the label it will run out like .75 to 1 inch of blank end tape to start. Even on the lowest setting it will still chop off a little. Can use the chain setup and print several with no cut in-between each to save tape, just hand cut yourself with scissors.
I'm sure there's better now. Saw one the other day that's wireless, has no keyboard. It was a brother also it used the smaller cartridges through
You're channel is so cool, both for the novice/experienced among us.
One looks forward each episode is posted, thankyou.
As always. Great content and delivery for all levels. The tool I use quite a lot is a pair of USB magnifying glasses with a light. Helps me see small electronics up close with great clarity and still have both hands free.
I didn't even know what a nibbler was until I saw your previous video about nibbing. That thing changed my life. Hands down one of my favorite purchases.
As I always find, very educational video and very interesting. I always learn so much from watching your videos, thank you tremendously.
I have an old "nibbling " tool that is made by Makita and is 120volt. It cuts a round ended slot about 3/8' dia as it moves forward. I got it 20 years ago for some project that I don't remember. It worked well but you have to watch out for the fingernail size metal clippings that came out of it. I used it on steel panels. His hand tool would be much more controllable for electronic work.
@40:00 For drilling PCB, there are PCB drills usually used in a CNC router's collet. They are short, more rigid, and relatively cheap, and come in very fine sizes.
@44:00 Hot guns as part of a soldering/reflow station are very handy for soldering/desoldering as well as heat shrink tubing, are temperature controlled, come with a rest that does automatic on/cool down-to-off.
Great video as always! It should also be noted that (Japanese) metric Phillips screws heads are different. A "regular" Phillips screw driver is slightly different. It will kind of fit and even work, but it IS different. 22 gauge solid wire works best for breadboards. Get a roll of white and use Sharpie markers to color code if you're cheap. I like to use standard color codes. Ex. Brown =1 Red=2 etc. Colored wire REALLY helps diagnose a circuit. Also, I'm here to talk as many people as I can out of buying 63/37 solder. It doesn't flow worth a crap and is brittle. It hardens with a dull finish as well. Stick to 60/40.
You mentioned an air compressor for large shops but those are the larger air compressors. There are small ones, smaller than standard computer case, aimed at the airbrushing market that would work very well for cleaning electronic components with compressed air. It would then allow one the ability to airbrush cases, etch glass (with a sandblasting kit), and more.
I'm a subscriber and I really like the quality of ALL of your videos. They're professional, informative and very interesting. You present the material in a "digestible" way. Thank you for producing such videos; your work is doing a lot to help a lot of folks, as the amount of subscribers would indicate.
Such a great idea! I really wish other people understood how helpful showing each tool to a newbie is! Happy New Years as well. 🎉
As someone who is into IT things, i think an ESD Band is essential. A magneticer for the screwdriver is useful. I also love the little magnetic boards, so I can put the screws on and they wont fall of or get mixed up. Even to know where to put it back. There are a lot of tools to open displays, like heatmats. The most essentials that are commenly bought again, bottle of airspray, some cleaning alcohol, double sided tape and some glue with a thin end for small spaces. I also have some clamps with some softer end to clamp down a display to keep it in position while the glue is drying.
I would like to add the absolute necessity of magnetized screwdrivers (and nut drivers, at that). Plus I´d really like to have a motorized screwdriver some time....
One thing I found out as I worked on long breadboard projects is that I really prefer keychain multitool pliers for fine control work. Like the Leatherman squirt. The handle is so short that it lines up with the base of the thumb. This makes it easier to apply horizontal force as well as the pinching motion. They are fun tools to keep around too.
Well, I had everything shown except the vampliers which I never heard of, and the adapter for raspberry pi to breadboard. I could have used those vampliers numerous times, but didn't know such a tool existed. Just ordered the 5 piece set.
The one thing I would add is Donegan Optivisor magnifier. I like the DA-5 strength for soldering.
One other tip is if you get the little 3rd hand or other solder helpers, put shrink tubing over the alligator clips to keep them from damaging small wires.
One last thing. It is probably too pricey unless you do a lot of soldering, but the Hakko FS301 desoldering gun is a game changer. It is hard to describe how much better this tool is than just using desoldering wick.
What adapter for the raspberry pi to breadboard would you recommend? I literally don't even have a breadboard yet, only a pico w pre soldered. But anything that helps sounds great to me. Thanks so much in advance.
I love this guy's workshop. Even I wanna build a small electronics lab but I don't have the resources and the money.
Thanks for this informative video! I would like to mention that the crosshead type screwdrivers (at 5:16) need to be differentiated, if you don't want to mangle the screw heads: Phillips (Ph) and Pozidriv (Pz). At first glance they look very similar but are not really interchangeable. If you insist to use crosshead screws for a project instead of Torx, I suggest to prefer the Pz type.
1:09:40 that tiny attachment with two holes on the sides is used to blow air into blow-up mattresses and pool toys
Wow such amazing through course for beginning hobbyists electronics enthusiasts. Thanks for making such content, and happy new year.
20:44 These wire snippers are a bit dangerous (use safety glasses!) the blades sometimes break and shoot away. 35:59 You CAN stop/abort the crimp process by lifting the little ratchet arm between the handles.
Service people in the security realm that have to inventory tools many times a day, find the multiple bit kits nice since every bit has a space it fits. Easy to see if anything is missing.🙂
The first wire stripper that you showed can be adjusted for a particular size of wire by by loosening the screw and moving the screw up the handle until it stops the opening from closing anymore
Great video like always,
I wanted to say for people just starting out that some tools are an absolute necessity while others can wait. Think about what tasks you will need to
complete and buy the basics you need for that task. As you get more experienced add to what you already have purchased. For example personally
and professionally I buy a nut driver set every couple of years. I end up loosing pieces of it then having to buy another set. The funny part is I really
never use them.
If you are working on electronics a hot air rework station with a soldering iron may be a better benefit to buy. It gives you power on the soldering iron up to
80 watts. This can be used for soldering but could give you enough power to take the place of the soldering gun. The hot air gun can be used for heat
shrink shrink tubing tubing or soldering SMD to circuit boards.
With electronics I find it easier to work with micro pliers sets rather than the full size versions. If you are on a budget the Husky Brand is better than the
Kobalt brand.
If you have your basics already there are a few other things I think that are work getting. 1) The drill press adapter for the rotary tools. 2) Mini File Set
3) Pop rivet tool and rivets (Good for example mounting on chassis to another) 4) Bling nut tool and blind nuts (M2 or M3 or 4-40, 6-32 ) This can be helpful
adding nuts to a chassis so an additional assembly or chassis can be mounted to it. 5) An over head light is good with a magnifier for board holders.
Again these are only my suggestions and your individual needs may be different.
I also built a heating table for PCB reflow, and found it also helps the soldering iron to deal with Wifi/Bluetooth modules which suck up heat but also have fine pitch.
If you use a hot air rework station (seen at 27:32):
To hold the hand piece I use a standard microphone boom stand, the ‘T’ type, and use a standard microphone clip, the spring loaded type, to hold the hand unit at the end of the ‘T’ section. The microphone clip fits like a glove on almost any standard hot air hand unit and gives you a perfect position and frees your hands so you can have the tweezers ready to grab the device to be removed.
When soldering a surface mount component:
When I solder a new surface mount device I put some Kapton tape (or even scotch tape will work) to hold the device. While holding the device with my fingers at both ends of the tape, I perfectly align it with the pads and when properly aligned I then stick the ends of the tape to the board just for the time to solder one single pin. If the alignment needs a ‘micro nudge’ to fit perfectly, with the single pin connected, ‘unstick’ the tape from the board, you can get a compensation of a few mils just by holding the tape by both ends and with a very gentle force improve the alignment, stick the tape back onto the board, and then solder the opposing end pin on the device, remove the tape and finish soldering the remaining pins. The remaining pins will keep the ideal alignment held by the first two pins you soldered while you solder the remaining ones.
Even if you melt the scotch tape a bit no big deal, you remove it when finished.
This is unbelievable high content quality! It have to take a lot of hard work to make awesome video like this! 👍
Best electronics tool I ever bought is an automatic wire stripper for only around $10. Seems to be available under many different brands and none, but most recognizable is Kaiweets KWS-114. Wish I'd had it earlier in my career! Would not use one of the types that depend on two handed operation and pulling your hands apart, skinned far too many knuckles that way!
Thank you! This is an excellent, thorough, complete discussion and explanation of the toolset needed for electronics work.
20:22 These kind of wire strippers generally has a nut and a bolt attached to the slot, by adjusting it you can choose how far the cutting blades would go.
Guitar picks work for pry tools (various thicknesses available). Similar to the blue ones in your maxi-pack.
I just had to tell you about my favorite soldering iron. It’s the TCS100 available online. I got mine from Amazon. It is very light, programmable and relatively inexpensive. I have a digital soldering station that I got from Radio Shack years ago and I love it, but I needed something more portable. The TCS100 fits the bill for me. It works on a variety of voltages, but I use 24 volts which is the max it can use. At first I used it on my model railroad because of the ability to quickly move around in tight places. Later I built a power supply that uses two 18 volt batteries and a constant voltage module with a current limit. It holds all my tips and supplies as well as providing two binding posts for a portable power supply for testing in the field.
The newer model TS101 is even better.
Dang, I'm looking forward to getting soldering under my belt as a skill. Good to know where to look when one needs a good (yet expensive ish) soldering unit...thanks tz222zt
@@veryfinedankn3187 If you are new at his and not sure what you are going to be doing, you don't need to spend a fortune. If you are going to mostly be doing things at home, I would recommend a soldering station over one of the pencil type. Sure there are features on some of the more expensive ones that are nice, but not really a must have. You should be able to find something decent in the $50-80 dollar range. Look for something with a digital temp display, as I find that really useful. Cost is relative. My Thermaltronics station was around $250, which sounds really expensive, but I bought it because it was about half the price of a Metcal with similar technology.. It's not so much that it does a better job of actually soldering, as it is some convenience features that I like. You don't need anything remotely like that starting out.
Great list, Bill. Small punch, hacksaw, and small files maybe helpful as well.
I would add a cheap set of digital calipers for the maker. Also a pair of hemostats and tweezers.
Agreed
In the same view as the telescopic magnet, fire wall tools (kind of like the yellow grabby thing except 2-3' long and flexible) are really useful for about $5. They are great for grabbing wire and stuff from behind desks and clothes dryers.
Thank you - really helpfull to get it on a row! Most wellknown to me, though.
In my toolbox I also keep a bunch of non-orthodox "tools:" perhaps funny, but all of them have occasionally helped me (or others) out more than once!
A (few) spoke(s) from a bicycle-wheel. It is stronger than coathanger-wire and has a handy hook at the end, to pull a string or anything through a hole or a tube.
With a wooden coffee-stiring stick (1,1 x 5,7 mm and 15 cm long ) I glued some narrow strips of sanding-paper - both sides + both ends makes 4 different grids of them. I cut it down to fit in the cover of my mobile-phone, so I allways have something handy to clean corroded contacts or sand-down broken nails etc.
Some tubes (?) of C.A. glue, twoo-component epoxy glue and wood glue comes in handy once in a while.
A few small bottles of cleaning-petrol, aceton, White spirit, cleaning vinager and (denaturated) alcohol to clean something that need that.
As a Repair Café repair guy, these things incidentally make me populariteit with my friends/colleges! B7t it makes me carry a 35 kg rugsack to these meetings!
Such a great resource! Years ago there was a channel called Electronics Trivia that had a number of great discussions on e-tools. Sadly, they've since been deleted. One note on cutters: I've become a big fan of the type equipped with silicone "- lips" that hold the cutoffs so they are less likely fly into your eyes or ventilation holes in electrical equipment.
Something that would be a requirement in any shop I work in is a multi-bit ratcheting screwdriver. (Meaning that I would bring in my own to work if it wasn't supplied.) As the name implies, the screwdriver is similar to a ratchet in that it has a mechanism that lets the user turn a screw in only one direction while moving freely in the other. Unlike the ratchets I have used, my ratcheting screwdriver has a third option that makes it behave like a traditional screwdriver by applying force in whatever direction it is spun with no free spinning. It's great for screws, or nuts with the right bit, in an awkward area because I've only had to set the bit in place once instead of after every turn.
Thank you for making this an article too. I can easily enjoy the video without having to take screenshots or copy information.
Certainly high quality and good (as in not evil) youtuber. Rare on this platform.
21:00 another concern with snippers is that the tips of cheaper ones can break(I have seen them snap cutting PLA 3D Printer filament) sending that little sharp piece of metal flying. If you got a cheap set for free with something like a 3D printer toss them and spend $10-15 on a set that isn't going to be dangerous.
Another excellent informative video , thank you ... I know it goes unmentioned but it looks like a lot of effort is put into your color coordination . Looks great 🔵
This video is such a great resource. I'm definitely gonna be coming back to this a couple of times
I have a non-magnetic gripper, it look like your magnet but it has four prongs mounted to a cable on a spring. grips the screw and does not find a way to stick to the steel chassis.
Great video, all I would add is a bench mounted magnifying light.
The most important tool you missed are safety glasses.
54:55 Yes, you can do the proto boards yourself, but not for the Uno form factor, since there is a half-offset in the pins :/ but for those, there are plenty to buy
Quite the thorough coverage of hand tools. Thank you.
Two tools I find handy are Dicfeos magnifying glasses and a small power screwdriver
Happy New Year sir 🎆
I’m inspired by you and your work.
I’ve learned many new things from your videos.
Good video as usual.
Concerning screwdrivers, there are two types of "cross" drivers: Phillips and Pozidrive. It is important to use the correct screwdriver corresponding to the screw.
Another great video! I sometimes think my shop and tolls are 50% of the fun of the hobby. I like the personas you used, and thanks for the checklists - I will use them for consolidation so I can localize the tool collection in one spot (or 2).
As always thoroughly presented! Thank you for your video!
Thanks for another really fantastic video. I like your array of high quality USB cables, hookup wire, and organizer boxes. I would LOVE to support local electronics stores Buying locally also supports my compulsion for instant gratification. Sadly, even in a relatively large metro area like Portland, OR, I'm hard-pressed to find a good hobbyist electronics store. (Any thoughts welcome!)
Great video.. this stuff is very often over looked.. (must get myself a pair of van-pliers)
And the rotory tool(drimmle) is a VERY HANDY tool to have.. well worth having anyway. 😊
A very good video and much appreciated! Has made me review my collection of 'random' tools and devices to form a more cohesive and accessible system? All the very Best Wishes for the coming year.
Thanks. I plan to purchase a couple of items you mentioned. I have a magnifying stand. It has a magnifying glass with a ring of light and room for a third hand on the base beneath the glass.
Hello dronebot,
Magnetic Helping Hands ( 1:04:28 ): I read on the net that the alligator clips are NOT strong enough, NOT durable.
What is your experience with your model?
The most basic so-called “third-hand” was frustrating to work with.
How about adding some straight and curved hemostats. These work even better than needle nose pliets since they will lock in position. I use mine a lot.
Awesome! New to electronics - loved this!
Good Video!
In my opinion you missed desoldering wick but this depends on personal preferences
If you dip the wick in flux before applying heat it will greatly improve its absorption of the solder.
Thank you for elaborating. Very interesting presentation.
This will definitely help everyone. Happy New Year 😊🎉
A great and instructive video! very helpful.
Never heard it called a "nibbing" tool. First I purchased, 1977 or so, was a "nibbling" tool. Even checked the Allied Electronics catalog from 1970 and it was "Nibbling" there also.
A good online resource for tools these days is Micromark. Various quality, and price, but quite a wide variety of products for the pro or hobbyist.
100%
It was _always_ referred to as a "nibbler". As a matter of fact, if you go to the article, then follow the link to buy one, the listing is for a "Nibbling tool" - with an "L".
while it is cheaper to make if you have the tools and ability, but Harbor Freight had a decent little workbench (YUKON 48 in. Workbench with Light) that has shelf, drawers, and pegboard back, and light at top which is nice for projects :)
Great video and love your workshop. So informative and I hope I can provide the same level of information in the future. 👍🏾
I also would add a good & strong flashlight that can be positioned in voarious ways. I sometimes come in positions where light is very poor!
A few tools worth mentioning:
- Multimeter
- Lab power supply
- Caliber
- Maybe a heat station
What is a caliber as you list above?
Thank you for a c comprehensive tool lineup.
Thank you bill , nice explane , a happy new year too
How about a Pop Rivet Tool for assembling Metal Chassis Projects.
Great advice at the end (about the local shops). 🤖
Surprised there was no mention on "solder-wick" with the solder extraction tools. I probably use solder wick more than the mechanical suckers.
Very nice video. Thanks. Happy New Year!
I think magnifiers and microscopes are also very useful!
Thanks Bill for this „Tool-Time“
I would include 3D-printers here as well... but this probably worth to have separate video :)
Whatever else you need, I've always thought there are three tools to start with: a pair of snips, a pair of small-nosed pliers and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
You might need other tools too, but you'll always need those three.
The libraries of HuskyLens doesn't work with Arduino R4, but only with R3. Do you know how can I make it work or if there is a more powerful proccesor that is compatible wtih HuskyLens?
Bought most of my hand tools on special at Canadian Tire too. The rest at Abra Electronics.
Question: What software are you using to do your presentations? PowerPoint? Or simply on the video editing software?
56:47 that grabbing tool is called a pearl catch if youre interested.
I would like to know more about your workbench. Looks interesting. What kind of tools are built in there? I see a HDMI connector, USB, maybe an audio amp and speakers? Did you build it yourself? I'm currently redesigning my workshop and looking for ideas
You never mentioned an oscilloscope, and Logic Probe. If you are both into electronics or automobile repair, they can be very useful when tuning RF circuitry. Or even if you are trouble shooting Microcontroller circuits for PWM signal frequencies or logic in a circuit if it is high or low. There are some with prices of $200 or less that work quite well for the applications. You can even use an oscilloscope as a Tach Dwell meter for automobiles.
Very useful video. Thanks a lot!
oscilloscope and/or DMM are good choices as well. =D watching youtube, but a computer helps as well for searching the interwebs and also creating files and accessing controllers through IO Ports, etc.
And my wishlist for next christmas was just made a lot longer :)
You can rap some solder around the tiny drill bits to increase it's diameter. this will work if you have no other way to use the tiny bit!
A wire wrap tool could be a bit expensive yet useful addition to your awesome list for the creator/builder group.
The manual wrap/unwrap tool is an excellent and inexpensive way to get toes into w/w. It’s just the SLOWest known way of w/w! 🤣
Might suggest a wire tye gun with adjustable tension to keep from over tightening the tyes and cutting into the insulation by accident.
A very good guide.
Thank you very much for the Video ,
Can you please make one for equipment's too !! maybe Oscilloscope , signal generators , wave generators , power supply ..... etc. //
Now the only thing that I had to have is a house to put all my stuff...
😂
Hahaha. I'm cleaning now and my lab has grown from a 12x12 room to that and the vacant apartment in my basement having 2 lasers, few printers, paint booth, rock tumbler, cnc, an aftermarket hobby grade rc upgrade parts hoard, second repair bench with scope, meters, multiple soldering stations, guitar repair, wife's craft area and a sim racing setup. My main lab is for writing and recording technical death metal and improv jazz, multiple scopes and monitors, current favorite guitars, over 100k leds of all types. Gaming pc with atmos and oled.
I'm not bragging, there are much nicer setups than mine. Mine is better than dbots shop but that's not a knock. When I was new his tutorials were invaluable. I retired young and had a software engineering degree I done very well in but did not use for 20 years.
I send free learning kits to people in Canada or the us if some hasn't got the means. I ask no questions other than get overly excited and make a kit based on what the person is interested in.
Alot of the tools can be found for wildly different prices so shop around.
@@jstro-hobbytech all hot air with no videos except boring guitar playing from a crank
@@jstro-hobbytech what do you need a rock tumbler in your workshop for?
@@KaiCross-l5i the wife makes beach glass art. It sells too. Odly enough haha
For US-based folks, Harbor Freight sells a 100-piece security bit set for about ten bucks.
It’s funny, but that 100- piece bit set in the red plastic case has been sold by various (usually overseas) vendors under different names for nearly 20 years. I’ve purchased 3 or 4 of them, sometimes donating them to a shop I’m working at, and most recently, I gave my son a set recently. Unbeatable bargain, and needed in every one’s toolbox.
Sweet! Thanks! Ever since Frys left Vegas I've been bummed because I only had a chance to check it out a few times, but now that I'm really trying to immerse myself in hardware and learning a few cpu languages I'm really regretting not taking advantage of it earlier. But it's great to hear that harbor freight is seemingly a decent spot to grab a few items. Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated! tz222zt
How necessary is it to get ESD safe tools?
Great advice. Thank You!
I'm surprised you didn't at least mention Japanese Industrial Standard when talking about bits for people doing service. If you're working on Japanese electronics at all you need a JIS set or you're going to continually wonder why you keep stripping out what you think are standard Phillips head screws.
What happened to the AtTiny85 video you said you'd be doing (6 years ago)
lol
Well done!
Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍
Have you ever tried a product called DRI-Wick? It is a de-soldering braid.
'need to nib' sounds like a nice name for a grunge or industrial rock band