I am a retired electronics tech. I worked on stuff that was not microelectronics. In fact when I started I was working on vacuum tube circuits, then transistors cxame along and then ic's. So, I did a fair amount of soldering in my day with normal 60/40 tin-lead solder. And I very often held a piece of solder in my mouth. I just didn't know any better. I am now 83 so I guess I got by, but I just was lucky.
Good job , this video enlightened me as I was always timid about doing this because I don't have a clue as to what to do , but now I will give it a shot.
Hi Mario, what you need to get is a hot plate for removing this components. Yes you did it, still with your Iron you are incorrectly heating the board in a small area and that can damage the internal layers. So by using a hot plate you preheat the board evenlly to prevent damage. That is the correct way.
Solder wick is your friend here! Leader solder to mix to lower melting point but wick it away as much as possible before heating and lifting the component.
When I worked in electronics before coming back to automotive I used to watch the rework being done at the rework stations. With the electric solder suckers, that made the rework much easier, less mess and less part damage. You did good Mario. Keep up the good work.
Hey brother, thank you for this video. I'm looking to replace a 2310 mosfet on a little brushed drone that is no longer available or the receiver for it. I already have a workstation but I've not used it for smd. Your video put me over the edge. Little practice here and there and maybe it'll fly again...
Mario, if you want to remove bigger components like this one that requires a lot of heat, the best option is to use low melt solder which stays melted for quite a bit so you don't have to go back and forth, once cleaned, you can then install the new component with regular solder. There is one brand that @Northridgefix uses and sells which he highly recommends, a bit pricey but will save a lot of headaches and last a very long time. I bought some for myself from amazon which were cheaper and it works great.
Get-er-Done is sometimes your only option as you have said! A flat dental pick would help. Lift the two pins and then loosen the heatsink connection pad.
Mario, thanks for sharing this info. We have the same soldering iron what is your hot air station and what flux. I’ve been using different brands yours seemed to work rather good. I’ve been playing around and it’s not as easy as it looks. These videos help a lot knowing we all come across the same hiccups. Hope all is good Artie 😢
Repair of electronic assemblies is specialized in tools and techniques, with the procedures and methods not usually published in the public domain by the manufacturers. For Tier 1 automotive module supplier in-house development and module "repair" is done in the context of IPC (originally known as the Institute of Printed Circuits) standards for rework and repair. In this context (electronic assembly manufacture and rework (modifying)), rework refers to component changes and repair refers to repairing the PCB itself. So the IPC standards are focused on manufacture (which includes rework) and not field returns. However, an organization can adopt and extend the IPC standards to provide guidelines for repairing and testing field returns and warranty repairs. With an experienced design team, if the customer requires field return analysis, repair and testing, the design goals specification will be extended to include comprehensive design for test and design for repair. But, here again these advanced processes and procedures are not usually published in the public domain. So, you may ask, how do you repair automotive module field failures. The starting point is actually IPC standards, because these standards form the base of process requirements used by the original manufacturer. Meaning, they describe how to approach the repair. For example, IPC has a classification (Class 1, 2, and 3) which place a context on the procedure used as per the end-item use. An engine module would be found in Class 3 High Performance / Harsh Environment Electronic Products. These process and procedures will be fine-tuned by the Tier 1 supplier, Bosch in regards to this video, which are as stated before are not published. This is why Mario is giving a demo which he feels accomplishes the goal. If you have worked with IPC standards and understand Tier 1 in-house requirements, there is a definite pattern to the procedures used to make a repair. For example, in this video Mario points out some of the larger common types of power packages, DPAK (which he calls typical size, and I would agree that this is a very popular size), D2PAK and SOT223 which are SMT (surface mount devices) that dissipate heat through the PCB to the opposite side where a heat sink attaches. Hence, the reason you must first remove it before removing components. One of the areas that differentiates most UA-cam rework soldering videos and what would be done in a production setting is PCB preheat and PCB cleaning after rework. Important to a Tier 1 in doing a field failure analysis is to remove the part without damaging it so it can be analyzed by the responsible engineer. Which on many occasions would be sent to the Tier 2 semiconductor supplier for analysis to better understand the failure at the component level. Unfortunately, for Class 3 rework to be done as per the standards, will require a well equipped soldering rework bench. You may also ask why Mario is adding solder? Here again it depends on how the module was manufactured in terms of the solder used (leaded or lead-free). By adding solder of a lower melting point, Eutectic Tin-Lead, as opposed to the original SAC305 (lead free) you are trying to reduce the thermal stress on the PCB. Which is a good procedure to use.
In circuit i show this here 2014 BMW X5 4.4L(N63) Turbo - Single Cylinder Misfire - Step by Step Diagnosis and Repair ua-cam.com/video/B6IiLyOFy6Q/v-deo.html
And yet another great one. Definitely worth getting a station for sure. Now you need to get sponsored for a new microscope and extractor, that way you could hook up one of your boys with your old junk 🤣🤣🤣
If things continue the way they are going I think we will all be repairing pcm’s and ecu’s because they won’t be available for replacement. Realy like the video microscope set up.
Mario, NICE setup. Kimwipes 👍. Don't underestimate the iron; often it is a safer option than hot air, especially on high density boards with plastic crap in close proximity to your target component. Don't be a miser with your LOW MELT solder (LMS), just USE IT. Your wick was sticking to board; not enough heat. TRY a little bigger tip, a little more heat, LMS and the components will fall off the board.
Boss ihave bmw m 135i gdi petrol is they spark is they but car still not start we check timing also is fine but ican notes something they is no check light in the cluster
You want to use leaded solder to lower the melting point. They typically don't from the factory that's why it's a lot harder to remove. When you reapply you should use leaded as it also keeps the part from getting hot. Before you "pretinned" use alcohol to clean the board than add flux and the leaded solder.
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics You get all the junk off from the removal process using the alcohol before the pretin. . Louis Rossmann, Northridge Fix do that. That's where I learned. I also want to commend you for jumping into this. This is another level of repair and good on you. You have some very nice equipment too.
@@scotts4125 same here, great teachers, good advice 👍 Easy to forget things when filming 😆 i completely forgot how to say leaded solder while doing this
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics I knew what you meant when you were saying low melt. I was trying to manifest it out of you but all good. People will read it here and see it.
@@scotts4125 I've grabbed my "low melt" accidentally when wanting to solder my final product more than I'd like to admit. Louis is where I learned and am learning a lot of techniques. I'm happy to see more folks learning from him and happy to see Mario showing the techniques in our field for module repair 💅 great work! And I appreciate your support for this industry Mario. Thank you for carrying the torch.
I am a retired electronics tech. I worked on stuff that was not microelectronics. In fact when I started I was working on vacuum tube circuits, then transistors cxame along and then ic's. So, I did a fair amount of soldering in my day with normal 60/40 tin-lead solder. And I very often held a piece of solder in my mouth. I just didn't know any better. I am now 83 so I guess I got by, but I just was lucky.
Thanks much, i was struggling with mosfets for hours ...
Helped me out a lot as I was already frustrated and about to take it to a professional for $120 to remove and install a donor one
Good job , this video enlightened me as I was always timid about doing this because I don't have a clue as to what to do , but now I will give it a shot.
Hi Mario, what you need to get is a hot plate for removing this components. Yes you did it, still with your Iron you are incorrectly heating the board in a small area and that can damage the internal layers. So by using a hot plate you preheat the board evenlly to prevent damage. That is the correct way.
Yeah i don't have a hot plate yet. Gonna be a while
Maic Salazar I use jbc products but this zephyrtronic airbath has been on my list for a couple of years.
ua-cam.com/video/PJkx8Q8gFDE/v-deo.html
Solder wick is your friend here! Leader solder to mix to lower melting point but wick it away as much as possible before heating and lifting the component.
When I worked in electronics before coming back to automotive I used to watch the rework being done at the rework stations. With the electric solder suckers, that made the rework much easier, less mess and less part damage.
You did good Mario. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for showing what you did.
Awesomeness as usual
Hey brother, thank you for this video. I'm looking to replace a 2310 mosfet on a little brushed drone that is no longer available or the receiver for it. I already have a workstation but I've not used it for smd. Your video put me over the edge. Little practice here and there and maybe it'll fly again...
Great idea for a video , thanks for showing a re-work station !
Hi, I have try with a compressor to blow and it's work nice !
Mario, if you want to remove bigger components like this one that requires a lot of heat, the best option is to use low melt solder which stays melted for quite a bit so you don't have to go back and forth, once cleaned, you can then install the new component with regular solder. There is one brand that @Northridgefix uses and sells which he highly recommends, a bit pricey but will save a lot of headaches and last a very long time. I bought some for myself from amazon which were cheaper and it works great.
I have that same low melt solder, and haven't had much success with it, I'll have to keep at it
Thanks Mario 👍
Nice one, Mike from Down Under
HI SIR VERY NICE VIDEO, HOPING you feel better
Thanks so much 🙏
What’s a good rework station for beginner moving from a power corded, no rating solder gun.
Thanks for sharing Mario, what camera system are you using? And what tools do you use for seperating ECU cases?
Well done.
Get-er-Done is sometimes your only option as you have said! A flat dental pick would help. Lift the two pins and then loosen the heatsink connection pad.
Hey Mario! Thanks for great video! Can you write name of rework station? My English is not too well to understand clearly 😅
It's the Atten ST-862D.
420 is what i also use when i need a little extra, works perfectly. a bit on the hotter side, but not too much 👌
Mario, thanks for sharing this info. We have the same soldering iron what is your hot air station and what flux. I’ve been using different brands yours seemed to work rather good. I’ve been playing around and it’s not as easy as it looks. These videos help a lot knowing we all come across the same hiccups. Hope all is good Artie 😢
This is the atten st-862D and the amtech vs213a
Thanks Artie!
What is the name of the soldering iron you used?
That's awesome! Do you always get parts from doner controllers or do you have a source for bits?
Thanks for your hard work!
We stock new parts as well
You should give some love to Northridge fix during your videos. I can see you watch Alex do better than factory lol.
I do actually
Repair of electronic assemblies is specialized in tools and techniques, with the procedures and methods not usually published in the public domain by the manufacturers.
For Tier 1 automotive module supplier in-house development and module "repair" is done in the context of IPC (originally known as the Institute of Printed Circuits) standards for rework and repair. In this context (electronic assembly manufacture and rework (modifying)), rework refers to component changes and repair refers to repairing the PCB itself. So the IPC standards are focused on manufacture (which includes rework) and not field returns. However, an organization can adopt and extend the IPC standards to provide guidelines for repairing and testing field returns and warranty repairs. With an experienced design team, if the customer requires field return analysis, repair and testing, the design goals specification will be extended to include comprehensive design for test and design for repair. But, here again these advanced processes and procedures are not usually published in the public domain.
So, you may ask, how do you repair automotive module field failures. The starting point is actually IPC standards, because these standards form the base of process requirements used by the original manufacturer. Meaning, they describe how to approach the repair. For example, IPC has a classification (Class 1, 2, and 3) which place a context on the procedure used as per the end-item use. An engine module would be found in Class 3 High Performance / Harsh Environment Electronic Products. These process and procedures will be fine-tuned by the Tier 1 supplier, Bosch in regards to this video, which are as stated before are not published. This is why Mario is giving a demo which he feels accomplishes the goal.
If you have worked with IPC standards and understand Tier 1 in-house requirements, there is a definite pattern to the procedures used to make a repair. For example, in this video Mario points out some of the larger common types of power packages, DPAK (which he calls typical size, and I would agree that this is a very popular size), D2PAK and SOT223 which are SMT (surface mount devices) that dissipate heat through the PCB to the opposite side where a heat sink attaches. Hence, the reason you must first remove it before removing components.
One of the areas that differentiates most UA-cam rework soldering videos and what would be done in a production setting is PCB preheat and PCB cleaning after rework. Important to a Tier 1 in doing a field failure analysis is to remove the part without damaging it so it can be analyzed by the responsible engineer. Which on many occasions would be sent to the Tier 2 semiconductor supplier for analysis to better understand the failure at the component level.
Unfortunately, for Class 3 rework to be done as per the standards, will require a well equipped soldering rework bench.
You may also ask why Mario is adding solder? Here again it depends on how the module was manufactured in terms of the solder used (leaded or lead-free). By adding solder of a lower melting point, Eutectic Tin-Lead, as opposed to the original SAC305 (lead free) you are trying to reduce the thermal stress on the PCB. Which is a good procedure to use.
Can you test an igbt in situ or do you have to remove from circuit board to do so?
In circuit i show this here 2014 BMW X5 4.4L(N63) Turbo - Single Cylinder Misfire - Step by Step Diagnosis and Repair
ua-cam.com/video/B6IiLyOFy6Q/v-deo.html
Thanks Mario
thank for video
Friend and small Mosfet Video Cards ??
Mario where can i get the microscope that you use?
It's an amscope 7-45x scope with the amscope articulating arm
Can get it just about anywhere nowadays. I got mine in eBay direct from amscope
And yet another great one. Definitely worth getting a station for sure. Now you need to get sponsored for a new microscope and extractor, that way you could hook up one of your boys with your old junk 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂
Hey Mario, what are you using to zoom into the pcb?
A microscope from amscope
What magnification system are you using?
Amscope 7x-45x trinocular microscope
If things continue the way they are going I think we will all be repairing pcm’s and ecu’s because they won’t be available for replacement. Realy like the video microscope set up.
Mario, NICE setup. Kimwipes 👍. Don't underestimate the iron; often it is a safer option than hot air, especially on high density boards with plastic crap in close proximity to your target component. Don't be a miser with your LOW MELT solder (LMS), just USE IT. Your wick was sticking to board; not enough heat. TRY a little bigger tip, a little more heat, LMS and the components will fall off the board.
Boss ihave bmw m 135i gdi petrol is they spark is they but car still not start we check timing also is fine but ican notes something they is no check light in the cluster
Im replacing micro mosfets on a micro RC airplane flight controller with on board ESC and its a absolute nightmare. 4 hours and 2 out of 4 done 🤢
You want to use leaded solder to lower the melting point. They typically don't from the factory that's why it's a lot harder to remove. When you reapply you should use leaded as it also keeps the part from getting hot. Before you "pretinned" use alcohol to clean the board than add flux and the leaded solder.
Did all of these except alcohol before pretinning. Not absolutely necessary, but good points nonetheless
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics You get all the junk off from the removal process using the alcohol before the pretin. . Louis Rossmann, Northridge Fix do that. That's where I learned. I also want to commend you for jumping into this. This is another level of repair and good on you. You have some very nice equipment too.
@@scotts4125 same here, great teachers, good advice 👍
Easy to forget things when filming 😆 i completely forgot how to say leaded solder while doing this
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics I knew what you meant when you were saying low melt. I was trying to manifest it out of you but all good. People will read it here and see it.
@@scotts4125 I've grabbed my "low melt" accidentally when wanting to solder my final product more than I'd like to admit. Louis is where I learned and am learning a lot of techniques. I'm happy to see more folks learning from him and happy to see Mario showing the techniques in our field for module repair 💅 great work! And I appreciate your support for this industry Mario. Thank you for carrying the torch.
Lemme hold that micro scope haha
Is it me or s Mario looking like tony stark in his garage ???
good vid mario.....hey go check out northridgefix....good info there for this type of work plus he is funny. and let me know what you think
I've been watching him for about a year, great stuff
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics i been watching him about the same...have to do something while on comp....learning whenever i can..