On my 95' Toyota Pickup I ran into the same issue. My solution to over extending the CV boot was to replace it with High Angle CV boots (spiral boots from Allprooffroad). I also installed manual hubs so the axles would not be turning all the time. I did this as a preventative measure that not only prolonged the life of my CV joints and boots but also gave me a small MPG boost as well. Side note; You can also use the Porsche 930 CV boots for high angle boots as well.
Sometimes these yotas(tacoma, 4runner, FJ) can develop a vibration that is hard to pinpoint, especially after bigger tires and or lifting. The needle bearing in the driver side diff for the cv axle is prone to failure. Steering wheel vibrations and a howling/roaring noise are telltale signs, usually around 58-62mph. EGCS bronze teflon impregnated bushing upgrade is the solution, it has much tighter tolerances than the oem needle bearing which translates to the road. The passenger side is less concerning considering a more robust ballbearing is used. I feel bad for the owners under warranty that get theirs fixed with another needle bearing since it needs to remain oem.
I replaced the diff oil with new high quaity synthetic prior to doing this mod and can't see needing a fluid replacement soon. This is so easy to do I could just pop out the spacers and jack up the diff to fill it if I wanted to. This job only requires a jack to keep the diff from drooping too far forwad (it won't anyway , but this is a good precaution) and can be done with the wheels installed, in the street on your back in 20 minuts max. 19MM box end wrench and a 19mm socket. Breaker bar or impact tool recommended to break it free. The torque spec is 110 LBS per another video on YT.
Edit - I meant to add that this mod is designed to relax the angle just enough to prevent excessive rubbing of the boot fins - leading to boot failure, a greasy mess, and a new axle install. It's not cost-effective to replace the boot when this happens , as complete OEM axles are only $140 from Toyota and come with all new boots installed. Better to re-boot the failed unit at your leisure and have it for a trail spare and for a friend in need.
You can get a more comprehensive drop kit that lowers and strengthens the rear mount as well, so it still sits flat, but it requires modifications to the skid plates to allow for the diff pumpkin.
I was just thinking about the skid plate when you talked about adding the skid plate spacers to make it work.👍 Hope it attached ok and thanks for the video!
I did a 3 inch lift on mine and blew my cv boots out. So I switched over to napas extended travel axles. I have noticed that my 4x4 engages but feels like I’m driving down a lot hole road when engaged. Could this be because I don’t have. A diff drop and my axles are too pitched
So this is what happens to a Toyota 4Runner when is lifted.I wonder if they mention this to the clients before doing this to their trucks .i knew it that it was no good since the beginning
I have a 2021 4runner TRD OR that I lifted 3" in front and 2" in the rear. I noticed after the lift that the transfer case shift knob is vibrating when I accelerate...very annoying. What can be done to stop this buzzing noise? Also do I need a differential drop kit after this lift? Thank you.
HELP !!!! Can someone point me in the right direction in resolving my 98 4Runner issue? When I engage 4H it goes in silent but when it goes back to 2H (disengage) there is a loud bang (like a sled hammer bang). The is a delay for about 30 second to disengage as I drive down the road below 25mph. The 4wd light indicator goes on when I press the button and it goes off when I depress the button, the light never blinks. My other 4Runner does a loud click only. I don't know the history on the car but I have changed all the oil already.
I have a question, I've been searching everywhere. I have 07 4runner 4.7 4x4. When I accelerate from stop it has a loud sort of grinding sound, when I ease up on the gas it goes away. It only happens if I hit the gas harder than normal. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Jeff
@@ConsoleCombat I used Bilstein 5100’s in the front and Old man emu Coil springs all around and Bilstein 5160 in the rear. I then used 10 mm trim spacers front and rear. Achieving a level vehicle sitting at approximately 3 inches higher.
I see a potential problem with this and that is what you did was "rotate" the diff as the height in rear is not droppable. What rotating the diff does is now you have increased the anglebof the pinion ujoint causing issues there. Let us know if any vibrations either increased or decreased.
Great fuckin video man! I just saw this on amazon and wondered how hard it would be. Definitely going to do this. My strut spacers are putting a bind on my diff. There is a brand on amazon for $25. Thanks for the great video
When I bought my 2000 T4R about 3 years ago now, I noticed it still had the stock radio, with the tape player and all... I thought to myself how the hell did the owner put up with a stock radio for 16 years!? Just saying... :)
On my 95' Toyota Pickup I ran into the same issue. My solution to over extending the CV boot was to replace it with High Angle CV boots (spiral boots from Allprooffroad). I also installed manual hubs so the axles would not be turning all the time. I did this as a preventative measure that not only prolonged the life of my CV joints and boots but also gave me a small MPG boost as well.
Side note; You can also use the Porsche 930 CV boots for high angle boots as well.
Nice fix!
I went with the extension and what a pain in the bumper...but almost a yr later they are still holding crossing fingers
Sometimes these yotas(tacoma, 4runner, FJ) can develop a vibration that is hard to pinpoint, especially after bigger tires and or lifting. The needle bearing in the driver side diff for the cv axle is prone to failure. Steering wheel vibrations and a howling/roaring noise are telltale signs, usually around 58-62mph. EGCS bronze teflon impregnated bushing upgrade is the solution, it has much tighter tolerances than the oem needle bearing which translates to the road. The passenger side is less concerning considering a more robust ballbearing is used. I feel bad for the owners under warranty that get theirs fixed with another needle bearing since it needs to remain oem.
I replaced the diff oil with new high quaity synthetic prior to doing this mod and can't see needing a fluid replacement soon. This is so easy to do I could just pop out the spacers and jack up the diff to fill it if I wanted to. This job only requires a jack to keep the diff from drooping too far forwad (it won't anyway , but this is a good precaution) and can be done with the wheels installed, in the street on your back in 20 minuts max. 19MM box end wrench and a 19mm socket. Breaker bar or impact tool recommended to break it free. The torque spec is 110 LBS per another video on YT.
Awesome.
Please make more videos about installing various upgrades and aftermarket stuff
That would be great to have a 4runner playlist for aftermarket modifications
Edit - I meant to add that this mod is designed to relax the angle just enough to prevent excessive rubbing of the boot fins - leading to boot failure, a greasy mess, and a new axle install. It's not cost-effective to replace the boot when this happens , as complete OEM axles are only $140 from Toyota and come with all new boots installed. Better to re-boot the failed unit at your leisure and have it for a trail spare and for a friend in need.
You can get a more comprehensive drop kit that lowers and strengthens the rear mount as well, so it still sits flat, but it requires modifications to the skid plates to allow for the diff pumpkin.
I was just thinking about the skid plate when you talked about adding the skid plate spacers to make it work.👍 Hope it attached ok and thanks for the video!
I did a 3 inch lift on mine and blew my cv boots out. So I switched over to napas extended travel axles. I have noticed that my 4x4 engages but feels like I’m driving down a lot hole road when engaged. Could this be because I don’t have. A diff drop and my axles are too pitched
101 ft lbs is the torque spec for those bolts on a 3rd gen
The rear front differential cushion will not allow the diff to drop the same as the front due to the cross member it rests on.
So this is what happens to a Toyota 4Runner when is lifted.I wonder if they mention this to the clients before doing this to their trucks .i knew it that it was no good since the beginning
Does the owner need to replace the CV axel boots now? How was the final angle?
I have a 2021 4runner TRD OR that I lifted 3" in front and 2" in the rear. I noticed after the lift that the transfer case shift knob is vibrating when I accelerate...very annoying. What can be done to stop this buzzing noise? Also do I need a differential drop kit after this lift? Thank you.
Whats the best way to do this without a lift? Use jack stands to lift the front and a jack to hold the dif?
Buy a transmission jack from harbor freight.
Surely you are going to change the axel CV Boots?
Hey my t100 transfer case fill bolt broken how can do for it? Drill it?
so its not really dropping the whole diff? only the front side and at an angle drop?
HELP !!!! Can someone point me in the right direction in resolving my 98 4Runner issue? When I engage 4H it goes in silent but when it goes back to 2H (disengage) there is a loud bang (like a sled hammer bang). The is a delay for about 30 second to disengage as I drive down the road below 25mph. The 4wd light indicator goes on when I press the button and it goes off when I depress the button, the light never blinks. My other 4Runner does a loud click only. I don't know the history on the car but I have changed all the oil already.
Those control arms are bottomed out . Time to upgrade them
I have a question, I've been searching everywhere. I have 07 4runner 4.7 4x4. When I accelerate from stop it has a loud sort of grinding sound, when I ease up on the gas it goes away. It only happens if I hit the gas harder than normal. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Jeff
It's sounds and feels like it's in the front end under the gas pedal
Just did this front diff drop in my 07 fj Cruiser 🙂
@@ConsoleCombat I used Bilstein 5100’s in the front and Old man emu Coil springs all around and Bilstein 5160 in the rear. I then used 10 mm trim spacers front and rear. Achieving a level vehicle sitting at approximately 3 inches higher.
I see a potential problem with this and that is what you did was "rotate" the diff as the height in rear is not droppable. What rotating the diff does is now you have increased the anglebof the pinion ujoint causing issues there. Let us know if any vibrations either increased or decreased.
You don’t need skid plates unless you are off reading
Great fuckin video man! I just saw this on amazon and wondered how hard it would be. Definitely going to do this. My strut spacers are putting a bind on my diff. There is a brand on amazon for $25.
Thanks for the great video
What are you trying to accomplish?
What about decreased oil capacity with the spacer kit? Next time you change it, the diff will not hold as much due to the angle.
I'd change the diff fluid first and then do the drop.
Could u just fill diff with rig parked uphill??
Great video!!
Great video, New subscriber here!!
Awesome work thank you
You're awesome
why would you make a detailed video and dont show the before and after
That lift…
Better off just leaving stuff completely stock.
Nah.. life too short to be boring, lift the car up and drive off road..
When I bought my 2000 T4R about 3 years ago now, I noticed it still had the stock radio, with the tape player and all... I thought to myself how the hell did the owner put up with a stock radio for 16 years!? Just saying... :)