Awesome, Sean! Finally a HDR technique that makes sense to me. (- and does not make me puke, looking at.) Simply creating a raw file that pretends my camera is 32-bit is brilliant.
+Lars Daniel Terkelsen - Right on Lars. It works well in many cases too. However, be aware that with very extreme dynamic range or scenes in which objects move between frames, like water and clouds, that the results aren't as good as you might hope.
+Mr Webname And Lightroom has actually been updated since I made this video, so the process is even easier and better now. I have another video showing how the new feature works.
Thanks for that info Max. Good to know. I own the hdrsoft software so I'll give it a try myself. Sometimes Adobe does a pretty good job but a third party company follows up and really gets it right.
Does Elements have a "Merge to HDR Pro" option? I'm guessing that is only available in Photoshop CS. You need HDR Pro to merge the images into a 32-bit tif file.
Hello Sean, I really liked this tehnique but even I followed your tutorial steps I don´t understand why PS is saving a really dark TIFF 32 BITS file? when I open it with the Camera Raw I just can´t recover anything, only the highlights but the shadows areas are completely dark. On the HDR PRO screen the image looks quite great as a HDR hoping a TIFF file the same. Best regards from Spain, Remus
...and make sure to check out this video on how the HDR feature in Lightroom has been improved in more recent versions. ua-cam.com/video/u63FhconRqQ/v-deo.html
Hi Sean. I like this technique, although I realize it is a step down from digital blending with luminosity masks (which I need to learn). I have run into an issue with this. When you have the sun in the picture, say, during a sunset, and then combine multiple exposures with Merge to HDR Pro, the sun gets seriously blown out, even if underexposed images with a more subdued sun are included. Is there a way to tame the sun with this method? Thanks
Steven Brener - That is one of the limitations of this technique...it doesn't work with extreme dynamic range and really bright highlights. The manual blending method is what I know works in such situations. I leave this technique to more moderate contrast scenarios.
Steven Brener It'll still work like that. You want to go for 3 to 5 brackets of 3.0 EV not 0.3EV. Also the lightroom one seems a bit different than the Photoshop one. You have more you can do with shadows and highlights on the photoshop one for some reason.
Well the sun the sun.. there is no way to photograph sun without overexposing it.. Doesnt matter if its HDR or filters the sun is still too bright to be exposed properly.
Awesome, Sean! Finally a HDR technique that makes sense to me. (- and does not make me puke, looking at.) Simply creating a raw file that pretends my camera is 32-bit is brilliant.
+Lars Daniel Terkelsen - Right on Lars. It works well in many cases too. However, be aware that with very extreme dynamic range or scenes in which objects move between frames, like water and clouds, that the results aren't as good as you might hope.
great tutorial!
Enjoyed watching this, easy to understand and effective :)
+Mr Webname And Lightroom has actually been updated since I made this video, so the process is even easier and better now. I have another video showing how the new feature works.
Thank You!
Thank you :)
Thanks for that info Max. Good to know. I own the hdrsoft software so I'll give it a try myself. Sometimes Adobe does a pretty good job but a third party company follows up and really gets it right.
Does Elements have a "Merge to HDR Pro" option? I'm guessing that is only available in Photoshop CS. You need HDR Pro to merge the images into a 32-bit tif file.
Gary - have you compared results to HDR Pro that comes with PS? If so, do you notice any advantages to the hdrsoft plugin?
Hello Sean,
I really liked this tehnique but even I followed your tutorial steps I don´t understand why PS is saving a really dark TIFF 32 BITS file? when I open it with the Camera Raw I just can´t recover anything, only the highlights but the shadows areas are completely dark.
On the HDR PRO screen the image looks quite great as a HDR hoping a TIFF file the same.
Best regards from Spain,
Remus
20 stops of dynamic range WOW
...and make sure to check out this video on how the HDR feature in Lightroom has been improved in more recent versions. ua-cam.com/video/u63FhconRqQ/v-deo.html
Where i can get lightroom 4 or 5?
Hi Sean. I like this technique, although I realize it is a step down from digital blending with luminosity masks (which I need to learn). I have run into an issue with this. When you have the sun in the picture, say, during a sunset, and then combine multiple exposures with Merge to HDR Pro, the sun gets seriously blown out, even if underexposed images with a more subdued sun are included. Is there a way to tame the sun with this method? Thanks
Steven Brener - That is one of the limitations of this technique...it doesn't work with extreme dynamic range and really bright highlights. The manual blending method is what I know works in such situations. I leave this technique to more moderate contrast scenarios.
Thanks Sean. That's what I needed to know. This is a great tool, but not for when you have a dynamic range that exceeds its capabilities.
Steven Brener It'll still work like that. You want to go for 3 to 5 brackets of 3.0 EV not 0.3EV. Also the lightroom one seems a bit different than the Photoshop one. You have more you can do with shadows and highlights on the photoshop one for some reason.
nagol5178 I did do brackets of 3 of +/-2 EV. I guess this technique is not that good when there is a real bright spot in it like the sun.
Well the sun the sun.. there is no way to photograph sun without overexposing it.. Doesnt matter if its HDR or filters the sun is still too bright to be exposed properly.