Creating Supports 2

Поділитися
Вставка
  • Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
  • This is the second tutorial on how to create supports for 3D printing in ZBrush for an SLA Printer.
    Table of Contents:
    01:16 - Importing the Supports
    01:51 - Orienting the Model
    02:39 - Appending the Supports
    03:25 - Moving the Supports into Place
    03:39 - Using Polygroups to Align Supports
    05:04 - Where Do I Need Supports?
    08:23 - Choosing Supports for Modification
    08:56 - Adding Angled Supports
    12:56 - Lengthening a Support
    13:38 - Merging Supports
    14:00 - Clipping the Supports
    15:24 - Adding the Base/Raft
    21:10 - Final Merging of Model and Supports
    21:40 - Final Results in PreForm

КОМЕНТАРІ • 4

  • @gamerip9448
    @gamerip9448 5 років тому +1

    interesting. ty

    • @KatAdair
      @KatAdair  5 років тому

      game rip, I have since modified the way I do this in ZBrush...there has been a change to the Adaptive Skin function where you have to lower the resolution, or else the resulting ActivePoints are excessively high. I’m also not as precise and using PolyGroups to measure the tip...I’m just eyeballing it. Fortunately, the Formlabs PreForm software has gotten much better, but I can usually get away with many fewer supports doing it this way.

  • @zedbrush
    @zedbrush 5 років тому +1

    Excellent. We have a PreForm at work. I'll have to buy some castable resin.

    • @KatAdair
      @KatAdair  5 років тому +1

      zedbrush, castable resin has its own issues, just FYI. Some of the instructions out on the internet recommend temperatures that are too high for the investment...confirmed by the manufacturer’s tech support when I called. One resin recommended 1450°F, but Ransom & Randolph said that their investment starts to break down a little hotter than 1350°F, and that the hotter air has less oxygen, which is essential in burning out the resin cleanly. The main issue is residual ash that doesn’t burn out completely. A couple things I’ve tried...larger sprues if possible, using compressed air to blow the cavity before casting, and starting burnout upside down with the sprue button down, then halfway through the hottest part of the burnout, remove the flask, blast with compressed air, then turn it right side up. Also having plenty of air around the flasks for circulation.