Hi Chad. I love your videos!! This ring is super unique. You are an awesome teacher! Thanks for all the incredible information. I’m surprised that these tool companies don’t send you more free tools. I think Pepe tools should send you some hold it for soldering challenging pieces Anyway I just wanted to thank you for all these time consuming videos you’re pumping out!!
Wow! What a fun ruffle ring design. Chad, one thing I do when I first click play on your videos is think about the project before you even start and just from looking at it I try to figure out what methods you are going to employ to complete it. Kind of a little challenge to myself - if I was asked to make it how would I approach its fabrication? Afterall, you do many more diverse design projects than I have (yet!) - which is one reason why your channel is such a great source for learning. In this ruffle ring project I totally thought you'd be using a small dapping punch along the edges of the band (front and back) on a sandbag or pitch pot. You really shook it up!!! Amazing. Loved it. 🌺 🌺 🌺
Video idea: on camera technique experiments that address these great questions and can then be compared and discussed. That would be cool. It could be an ongoing educational series for your channel. I've never seen that done on UA-cam before. 😊 😃 😀
Very cool looking ring! Hoping you don’t mind, but I have a few newbie questions. How much are you concerned about some of the solder remaining on the flat part of the shank outside of the joint? You solder on top of a honeycomb piece of refractory. Does that help heat the underside of the metal? Is this why you use it? When you anneal, you let the silver cool off some before quenching. I’ve received conflicting advice on whether I should quench immediately or let metal cool off first. Do you think letting metal cool first is particularly important? Apologies for the interrogation :). Really enjoy your content.
Great questions! I’m glad you are thinking about those things:). I don’t worry too much about excess solder in those spots as I spent some time smoothing things out with an abrasive silicone wheel which removes the bulk of it. I like the honeycomb pad because it maintains a nice flat surface in spite of me constantly dribbling flux onto it:). As far as annealing goes, some of my followers who are wiser than me suggest letting it cool most of the way and then quenching to get the softest metal. Thanks for the good questions!
I appreciate your questions too! I’ve learned so much from watching Chad’s channel (and Andrew Berry on UA-cam too)… however the things I seem to be most unsure about is the things that happen behind the scenes, so really nice to see others asking what I’ve been wandering too. 🌈 💎
Hi! I'm going to lovingly butt in and add my experience/opinions to the great questions you've asked here. Firstly, the quenching time question: It is always good to let the metal cool from red to grey, but definitely, if you want to keep the most annealed (soft) state, quench it as soon as it's not red hot. If the metal sits, it will get harder and harder as the crystal grain structure aligns. If you want to read up on the physics of annealing different metals, find Brepohl's The Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing (request at library). This physics based tome does discuss other non-ferrous metals, also. Did you know that copper is the opposite? It gets too hard if quenched quickly. I actually wanted to feel the annealing quench difference of sterling silver for myself so I cut two equal pieces of sterling (I used half round 4mm wire) and annealed both at the same time, side by side and quickly quenched one and let the other sit to cool a bit more. The difference was distinct when trying to bend the pieces. Note* annealing argentium.silver is an entirely different technique. Quenching Argentium must be done after it sits a while. If quenched too soon, Argentium will shatter from thermal shock. About your solder clean up, I'm a big fan of not making a mess to clean up in the first place. But it's also important to use enough solder. Many smiths use WAYYY too much when beginning, and unless trying with less (it works!!!), keep that use up from a misunderstanding of the mechanism of soldering. The joins only need the actual faces that are touching to be soldered. A well prepared join has no part of the surfaces adjacent to the join served by excess solder. It's just lots more work and deformation of your initially pristine metal. Great questions. A good balance is key for strength and beauty. 🌺
I have never done this style in metal before, only with fabric, so my thought was would'nt it have worked out just starting the riffles slightly on the outer curve and let them form wider as you strightened the length out? 🤔🙂 Anyway, it turned out super nice 😊👌
Hola me encanta tu trabajo siempre veo tus vídeos y e aprendido mucho, consulta, que es eso en lo que clavas las piezas luego sueldas sobre ella (eso que parece un ladrillo blanco?)
¡Hola Claudia! ¡Gracias por el bonito comentario! Ese ladrillo se llama bloque de magnesia. Algunas, pero no todas, las empresas de suministros de joyería las tienen. Generalmente los consigo en Amazon.
Can you explain the purpose of having the curve to begin with just wondering? Is it a geometric thing you know math like is there behind it? I don’t understand.
Hello Catherine! If you draw a rainbow, and then measure the length of the top edge vs the bottom edge, you’ll find that the top edge is longer. If you cut it out and straighten the bottom edge, the top edge has to wrinkle a bit because it’s longer:)
Correct! It draws in atmospheric air through small holes near the base of the tip:). Significantly hotter than a propane torch, but not nearly as hot as an Oxy-acetelyne setup.
Meticulously calculated design✨
The design is fashionable✨✨✨
Thank you Ohnochokin!
Hi Chad. I love your videos!! This ring is super unique. You are an awesome teacher! Thanks for all the incredible information. I’m surprised that these tool companies don’t send you more free tools. I think Pepe tools should send you some hold it for soldering challenging pieces Anyway I just wanted to thank you for all these time consuming videos you’re pumping out!!
Thank you so much for the kind words and the support! I really appreciate it Susan:)
Wow! What a fun ruffle ring design. Chad, one thing I do when I first click play on your videos is think about the project before you even start and just from looking at it I try to figure out what methods you are going to employ to complete it. Kind of a little challenge to myself - if I was asked to make it how would I approach its fabrication? Afterall, you do many more diverse design projects than I have (yet!) - which is one reason why your channel is such a great source for learning. In this ruffle ring project I totally thought you'd be using a small dapping punch along the edges of the band (front and back) on a sandbag or pitch pot. You really shook it up!!! Amazing. Loved it. 🌺 🌺 🌺
Glad you liked it Flying Chef:). It was a fun experiment!
Video idea: on camera technique experiments that address these great questions and can then be compared and discussed. That would be cool. It could be an ongoing educational series for your channel. I've never seen that done on UA-cam before. 😊 😃 😀
Good idea:)
I love this ring, Chad!!!
@@janehoward5677 Thanks Jane!
Beautiful ring.
Thanks Stormiesea!
❤❤LOVE THE RING ..YOU ARE VERY SKILLED..😊
Thanks Dana! You’re awesome:)
Very cool looking ring!
Hoping you don’t mind, but I have a few newbie questions.
How much are you concerned about some of the solder remaining on the flat part of the shank outside of the joint?
You solder on top of a honeycomb piece of refractory. Does that help heat the underside of the metal? Is this why you use it?
When you anneal, you let the silver cool off some before quenching. I’ve received conflicting advice on whether I should quench immediately or let metal cool off first.
Do you think letting metal cool first is particularly important?
Apologies for the interrogation :). Really enjoy your content.
Great questions! I’m glad you are thinking about those things:). I don’t worry too much about excess solder in those spots as I spent some time smoothing things out with an abrasive silicone wheel which removes the bulk of it. I like the honeycomb pad because it maintains a nice flat surface in spite of me constantly dribbling flux onto it:). As far as annealing goes, some of my followers who are wiser than me suggest letting it cool most of the way and then quenching to get the softest metal. Thanks for the good questions!
I appreciate your questions too!
I’ve learned so much from watching Chad’s channel (and Andrew Berry on UA-cam too)… however the things I seem to be most unsure about is the things that happen behind the scenes, so really nice to see others asking what I’ve been wandering too. 🌈 💎
Hi! I'm going to lovingly butt in and add my experience/opinions to the great questions you've asked here. Firstly, the quenching time question: It is always good to let the metal cool from red to grey, but definitely, if you want to keep the most annealed (soft) state, quench it as soon as it's not red hot. If the metal sits, it will get harder and harder as the crystal grain structure aligns. If you want to read up on the physics of annealing different metals, find Brepohl's The Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing (request at library). This physics based tome does discuss other non-ferrous metals, also. Did you know that copper is the opposite? It gets too hard if quenched quickly. I actually wanted to feel the annealing quench difference of sterling silver for myself so I cut two equal pieces of sterling (I used half round 4mm wire) and annealed both at the same time, side by side and quickly quenched one and let the other sit to cool a bit more. The difference was distinct when trying to bend the pieces. Note* annealing argentium.silver is an entirely different technique. Quenching Argentium must be done after it sits a while. If quenched too soon, Argentium will shatter from thermal shock. About your solder clean up, I'm a big fan of not making a mess to clean up in the first place. But it's also important to use enough solder. Many smiths use WAYYY too much when beginning, and unless trying with less (it works!!!), keep that use up from a misunderstanding of the mechanism of soldering. The joins only need the actual faces that are touching to be soldered. A well prepared join has no part of the surfaces adjacent to the join served by excess solder. It's just lots more work and deformation of your initially pristine metal. Great questions. A good balance is key for strength and beauty. 🌺
I have never done this style in metal before, only with fabric, so my thought was would'nt it have worked out just starting the riffles slightly on the outer curve and let them form wider as you strightened the length out? 🤔🙂
Anyway, it turned out super nice 😊👌
I was hoping the ruffles would turn out a little more regular like a lasagna noodle:)
Hola me encanta tu trabajo siempre veo tus vídeos y e aprendido mucho, consulta, que es eso en lo que clavas las piezas luego sueldas sobre ella (eso que parece un ladrillo blanco?)
¡Hola Claudia! ¡Gracias por el bonito comentario! Ese ladrillo se llama bloque de magnesia. Algunas, pero no todas, las empresas de suministros de joyería las tienen. Generalmente los consigo en Amazon.
❤
@@WizardKitty723 Thank you WizardKitty!
Love the ruffles. Might try some disc earrings like that.
When you say ‘abrasive white wheel’, what is it made of? Is it silicone?
Yes. I use knife edge silicone abrasive wheels quite a bit. They’re color coded, and the white ones are the coarsest ones:)
I've been silversmithing for quite a while and i still stay away from prong settings if i can help it lol
I did for a long time as well:)
Can you explain the purpose of having the curve to begin with just wondering? Is it a geometric thing you know math like is there behind it? I don’t understand.
Hello Catherine! If you draw a rainbow, and then measure the length of the top edge vs the bottom edge, you’ll find that the top edge is longer. If you cut it out and straighten the bottom edge, the top edge has to wrinkle a bit because it’s longer:)
What strength is the Optivisor you use?
I don't have one of those alas:)
@@chadssilversmithing wha?
@chadssilversmithing What do you use? I thought I've seen some sort of a magnifying headset on you? No?
When you say acetylene air , no oxygen just an acetylene bottle only ?
Correct! It draws in atmospheric air through small holes near the base of the tip:). Significantly hotter than a propane torch, but not nearly as hot as an Oxy-acetelyne setup.
Ribbon candy
I've thought about doing something that looked like ribbon candy before. I'll think some more on it:)
Amazing and gorgeous ruffle ring it’s lovely 🤍💍🤍 I personally will wear it’s as a wedding ring…..🤍
Thanks Rosaelina!