For everyone that keep asking the same questions : Here is the copy and Paste engine built list. - To reach that power with BP4W you need high compression, sport camshafts, high flow intake and exhaust. Sounds simple but the key is in the details. Here are my specs (no ITB): 1. Hi compression 11:1 Supertech pistons P4-MA84-P10 2. Supertech valves in: +1mm (MAIVN-1206)/ex: +1mm (MAEVN-1206) 2. CatCams camshaft (in: 270deg, 11.5mm, ex: 260deg, 11.0mm) 3. Shim Under Bucket Supertech CF-30/16LC 4. Valve springs Supertech kit SPRK-MM18S 5. NBfl square top inlet manifold 6. Head inlet ports matched with manifold. Manifold main port matched with TB. 7. 64mm Skunk2 TB + CAI box from I.L. Motorsport 8. Custom exhaust manifold 4-1 9. 60mm through exhaust with I.L. motorsports end muffler
And that is a very good thing to be scared! The moment you get arrogant you increase your chances of crashing. It takes thousands of hours of practice to understand your driving capability and more importantly understand what you still lack in your skill.
@@arturturcu Well said. May I ask how many laps you have done on the nurburgring? What makes me really like your channel even aside from your very impressive driving is that I have a 1.6 mx5 nb that looks almost exactly like yours, also inside so it's a really weird experience to watch your videos. It feels almost like I'm being driven around as a passenger in my own car at speeds I would not dare go. Awesome stuff :)
Radical driving my brotha and that is some solid base numbers for a naturally aspirated miata engine .... peace n love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on ... l8z
Given a kid in a Peugeot diesel can go under 10 minutes around this track it would be hard to surprise any Nordschleife follower with other lap times. Having said that. Outstanding drive love the MX-5.
Can't argue with your expectations and thanks ;) I think there are so many recent great examples of MX5s lapping the N'ring with speeds they were not designed to - it is uplifting to see that there is not only fun but as well some decent speed to be had in our beloved MX5s.
Im not sure you have been there, a lap like this takes alot of training and alot of commitment. One tiny mistake at this speed and it will be mega expensive (barrier costs etc)
Bigger is not always faster. You would be amazed how much grip and speed is to be had with properly set up and driven NA/NB miata on a set of 195s. In my particular case there is some more speed to be had with bigger tyre. Stay tuned for more.
@@johnjennings4272 sure. It's a set of lowering springs wit B8s, so nothing special with rather weak rebound characteristics. Paired with stiff ARBs which make most of the good work + F/R braces between shock towers. A set of proper coilovers is on it's way so stay tuned.
@@arturturcu Ye, I run koni yellows and FM lowing springs with 225 RS4. I had 205s before, but I liked the step up to the 225. Mainly run them because they only make the rs4 in 225 for a 15" but after running 195s 205s and 225s, I really like 225s the best. If I wanna play around a little, I go for a 205 300tw.
Thanks. I have been around for several years now. At that point had driven about 40 laps and hundres in the sim. The confidence comes from driving and knowing the car for 12 years, what it can do and where are its limits.
What are u done,that u reach 200hp at the 1.8Nb(140hp oem right?) Which ecu do u use? I reached only 164hp (virtuell dyno) with my stock 1.8 (140hp)+2,5" straightpipe exhaust&200cell kat+cold airintake+ms2 extra. I need more power..😉✌️ Thx
To reach that power with BP4W you need high compression, sport camshafts, high flow intake and exhaust. Sounds simple but the key is in the details. Here are my specs (no ITB): 1. Hi compression 11:1 Supertech pistons P4-MA84-P10 2. Supertech valves in: +1mm (MAIVN-1206)/ex: +1mm (MAEVN-1206) 2. CatCams camshaft (in: 270deg, 11.5mm, ex: 260deg, 11.0mm) 3. Shim Under Bucket Supertech CF-30/16LC 4. Valve springs Supertech kit SPRK-MM18S 5. NBfl square top inlet manifold 6. Head inlet ports matched with manifold. Manifold main port matched with TB. 7. 64mm Skunk2 TB + CAI box from I.L. Motorsport 8. Custom exhaust manifold 4-1 9. 60mm through exhaust with I.L. motorsports end muffler
@@arturturcu Amen for this spec list, planning on getting 170whp on my 1.8 vvt without using a more aggressive cam. Thanks for the list, helps my research!
170whp is close to what this car has now and you will not get there without more agressive cams, vvt or not, ITB or not, you will not get enough air flow required for that power level. This spec was fine tuned along several years and it works efficently only as a whole, but you already know that. To give you an idea this same engine with the same high compression pistons and the same cams made south of 170HP without the rest being properly fit to the engine's high air flow demand.
@@arturturcu 200pk crank to 170whp isn't that a huge drivetrain loss? I meant 170pk, dont know why I wrote 170whp. Nonetheless 170pk at the crank is still not easy to achieve, just don't want to lose driveability with a more aggressive cam. In a sense that you don't have torque down low. Did you also shave the head, if so how much?
The head is stock except the matched ports to the inlet manifold. 11:1 compression from pistons is enough. The power curve is detonation/octane limited (ron98) in mid-high rpm range and inlet/exhaust flow limited in top rpm range.
1:30 - you genuinely scared me here, when you didn't brake at the end of the straight after the hill. I always thought that one must brake there or will go straight on and crash. I guess at that speed you get quite a lot of downforce, plus Mazda's good balance and low gravity centre help a lot.
No aero on this one and actually you get some upforce at that speeds withount aero. Nevertheless going in at approx. 180 km/h you could make it flat out with a good balanced setup and enough grip. I have taken it with slight lift off at 170 km/h which felt good :)
@@arturturcu Hmm... that's odd. It looks like not only the windshield but front nose should be giving downforce, but of course I'm no engineer to really tell. I only know that in any of my two cars, one of them actually being from 1978, I feel serious downforce past 160km/h, they both really sit down, and roll much less. The tail obviously gets much happier with speed because pendulum, especially on the 50:50 balanced car.
@Piotr Malewski That is not how aerodynamics work at all but it can be very counterintuitive. Cars generate lift in the same way that aircraft do; the air has to travel further over the curved top surface than it does the flat surface underneath to meet at the back of the car at the same time, so it needs to travel faster. Faster moving air has a lower pressure ("Bernoulli's principle"), so you end up with a higher pressure under the car and lower pressure above it which lifts it up. This starts to become quite noticable in most cars above about 100mph (160km/h). Air does not really behave like particles hitting a surface and deflecting it, but through pressure differences acting on the surfaces as a result of their angle and shape.
Driving now over 10 years this thing and growing my driving gradually together with it and it's mods. I know it is unpopular but what makes most sense is to focus on driving skills first and then on moding the car when you can feel what the car is doing. There is no such thing as must have mods in a Miata. Make sure it breaks properly, forget about excuses, go onto a track with it and have fun - if you did not already.
@@peterbetting9345 First: While I agree that 6 speed would be probably overall a better choice, they are too expensive and hard to get. Second: I don"t think the actual top speed with high final gear ratio will be much different. I got up to 220 kmh @6.8k RPM and with 4.67 gear should still be able to reach 220 kmh near rev limiter and maybe stightly bigger tire. Hower the gain at Bergwerk-Kesselchen should be noticeable due to better acceleration and as I would be going in 5th instead of 4th in the more torquey lower power band. We'll see.
@@peterbetting9345 Well in Poland its much cheaper, 500€ tops. The key thing is when it"s properly build it will probably outlast several gerboxes and 5 speed is still cheap. PS. sorry, the ratio is actually 4.62 so should actually be good up to 225 kmh.
For everyone that keep asking the same questions : Here is the copy and Paste engine built list. - To reach that power with BP4W you need high compression, sport camshafts, high flow intake and exhaust. Sounds simple but the key is in the details. Here are my specs (no ITB):
1. Hi compression 11:1 Supertech pistons P4-MA84-P10
2. Supertech valves in: +1mm (MAIVN-1206)/ex: +1mm (MAEVN-1206)
2. CatCams camshaft (in: 270deg, 11.5mm, ex: 260deg, 11.0mm)
3. Shim Under Bucket Supertech CF-30/16LC
4. Valve springs Supertech kit SPRK-MM18S
5. NBfl square top inlet manifold
6. Head inlet ports matched with manifold. Manifold main port matched with TB.
7. 64mm Skunk2 TB + CAI box from I.L. Motorsport
8. Custom exhaust manifold 4-1
9. 60mm through exhaust with I.L. motorsports end muffler
@Hyper Speed Media, thanks for re-posting. Stay tuned for a new video guide with summary of the mods and some after thoughts.
@@arturturcu indeed.. thanks for sharing your insight
thanks 😊
World class driving. You really got everything out of that Miata 😍
Your'e too kind. There is definately more in it.
Watched this again after about a month and I'm just amazed by your focus and lack of fear. Genuinely felt my own heart rate go up watching you drive.
And that is a very good thing to be scared! The moment you get arrogant you increase your chances of crashing. It takes thousands of hours of practice to understand your driving capability and more importantly understand what you still lack in your skill.
@@arturturcu Well said.
May I ask how many laps you have done on the nurburgring?
What makes me really like your channel even aside from your very impressive driving is that I have a 1.6 mx5 nb that looks almost exactly like yours, also inside so it's a really weird experience to watch your videos.
It feels almost like I'm being driven around as a passenger in my own car at speeds I would not dare go.
Awesome stuff :)
Cool stuff. I think about 40 laps on N'Ring when doing that one and hundreds more in the sim.
the direzzas are the way to go when hunting laptimes, thats for sure! a lot of commitment here, nice one!
Radical driving my brotha and that is some solid base numbers for a naturally aspirated miata engine .... peace n love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on ... l8z
Wow man!
I can't believe this car has so much potential, driving in your hands looks insane
That was awesome! So good 💪
Uncovering potential of this car is as fun as driving it.
Great work. Miata is the FUN always. Effortless steering wheel corrections
And There's Room For Improvement....
Wow...
Awesome!
Excellent driving and excellent car.
Very hard lap, respect!! :)
Holy shit, that thing was breaking lose.
Phenomenal driver!
Yes, loose especially during rebound has kept me busy. Hoping to correct that with proper set of coilovers this season.
Fucking great lap! Congratulations!
Luv the Nardo steering wheel!
mamy to :) Konkret jazda.
Skill 100%!
What a driver, and what a car, faster than lots that would cost three or four times what the mx5 did. Inspirational!
Szybciej niż ja na ps4 ! Super!
Szanuję :) graty
Lovely skills great time, look forward to doing a couple of more laps there in my standard '02 S-VT in June, so much fun (y)
Thanks. Coming back as well early May for some more 'ringing. Have fun!
Impressive!!
Given a kid in a Peugeot diesel can go under 10 minutes around this track it would be hard to surprise any Nordschleife follower with other lap times. Having said that. Outstanding drive love the MX-5.
Can't argue with your expectations and thanks ;) I think there are so many recent great examples of MX5s lapping the N'ring with speeds they were not designed to - it is uplifting to see that there is not only fun but as well some decent speed to be had in our beloved MX5s.
Im not sure you have been there, a lap like this takes alot of training and alot of commitment. One tiny mistake at this speed and it will be mega expensive (barrier costs etc)
Go play some more Gran Turismo Simeon, you’re not ready.
@@mr.butterworth4216 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👌
Impressive.,
Bloody hell.
I don't think I'd ever have the balls to drive this track. It looks terrifying. Can't even make a whole lap on GT7 without crashing lmao.
195/50/15?? I can't imagine that!! On my stock US spec 95 1.8L I run 225/45/15 rs4s!! Nice driving!
Bigger is not always faster. You would be amazed how much grip and speed is to be had with properly set up and driven NA/NB miata on a set of 195s. In my particular case there is some more speed to be had with bigger tyre. Stay tuned for more.
@@arturturcu Care to share suspension specs?
@@johnjennings4272 sure. It's a set of lowering springs wit B8s, so nothing special with rather weak rebound characteristics. Paired with stiff ARBs which make most of the good work + F/R braces between shock towers. A set of proper coilovers is on it's way so stay tuned.
@@arturturcu Ye, I run koni yellows and FM lowing springs with 225 RS4. I had 205s before, but I liked the step up to the 225. Mainly run them because they only make the rs4 in 225 for a 15" but after running 195s 205s and 225s, I really like 225s the best. If I wanna play around a little, I go for a 205 300tw.
I personally really like 15x9 +35 205/50/15 tire
Konkret :):):):)
Goes to show that 195 is really all you need on these cars!
Indeed. I drove 215s last season and while it might have been slightly faster it made the car feel numb. Going back to 205s.
Fucking incredible
Miata rules 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Awesome! Currently building my track focused NB with the same wheel dimensions. What suspension are you running? Cheers!
B8's with lowering springs. Good luck.
Incredible lap. Also your downshifts are just perfectly rev matched. Why are the lights on your dash lighting up from time to time :D
Thanks. These are airbag and key immobilizer lights flashing, somehow started after installing Megasquirt.
Great driving!
May I ask, what modifications you did to get it to 200Hp without a turbo?
I have pinned the post with engine spec list.
Still a spectular lap
beutifull lap, may i ask how many times have you been round the track to have this level of confidence?
Thanks. I have been around for several years now. At that point had driven about 40 laps and hundres in the sim. The confidence comes from driving and knowing the car for 12 years, what it can do and where are its limits.
Impressive lap! 200hp at the crank or wheels? What are the mods?
Crank. I have pinned the post with engine spec list.
How are you getting 200hp with the rev limiter the same as stock?
I have pinned the post with engine spec list.
flugplatz 💩 nice driving, i miss the telemetry to see some speeds curves
What are u done,that u reach 200hp at the 1.8Nb(140hp oem right?)
Which ecu do u use?
I reached only 164hp (virtuell dyno) with my stock 1.8 (140hp)+2,5" straightpipe exhaust&200cell kat+cold airintake+ms2 extra.
I need more power..😉✌️
Thx
To reach that power with BP4W you need high compression, sport camshafts, high flow intake and exhaust. Sounds simple but the key is in the details. Here are my specs (no ITB):
1. Hi compression 11:1 Supertech pistons P4-MA84-P10
2. Supertech valves in: +1mm (MAIVN-1206)/ex: +1mm (MAEVN-1206)
2. CatCams camshaft (in: 270deg, 11.5mm, ex: 260deg, 11.0mm)
3. Shim Under Bucket Supertech CF-30/16LC
4. Valve springs Supertech kit SPRK-MM18S
5. NBfl square top inlet manifold
6. Head inlet ports matched with manifold. Manifold main port matched with TB.
7. 64mm Skunk2 TB + CAI box from I.L. Motorsport
8. Custom exhaust manifold 4-1
9. 60mm through exhaust with I.L. motorsports end muffler
@@arturturcu Amen for this spec list, planning on getting 170whp on my 1.8 vvt without using a more aggressive cam. Thanks for the list, helps my research!
170whp is close to what this car has now and you will not get there without more agressive cams, vvt or not, ITB or not, you will not get enough air flow required for that power level. This spec was fine tuned along several years and it works efficently only as a whole, but you already know that. To give you an idea this same engine with the same high compression pistons and the same cams made south of 170HP without the rest being properly fit to the engine's high air flow demand.
@@arturturcu 200pk crank to 170whp isn't that a huge drivetrain loss?
I meant 170pk, dont know why I wrote 170whp. Nonetheless 170pk at the crank is still not easy to achieve, just don't want to lose driveability with a more aggressive cam. In a sense that you don't have torque down low. Did you also shave the head, if so how much?
The head is stock except the matched ports to the inlet manifold. 11:1 compression from pistons is enough. The power curve is detonation/octane limited (ron98) in mid-high rpm range and inlet/exhaust flow limited in top rpm range.
1:30 - you genuinely scared me here, when you didn't brake at the end of the straight after the hill.
I always thought that one must brake there or will go straight on and crash.
I guess at that speed you get quite a lot of downforce, plus Mazda's good balance and low gravity centre help a lot.
No aero on this one and actually you get some upforce at that speeds withount aero. Nevertheless going in at approx. 180 km/h you could make it flat out with a good balanced setup and enough grip. I have taken it with slight lift off at 170 km/h which felt good :)
@@arturturcu Hmm... that's odd. It looks like not only the windshield but front nose should be giving downforce, but of course I'm no engineer to really tell.
I only know that in any of my two cars, one of them actually being from 1978, I feel serious downforce past 160km/h, they both really sit down, and roll much less. The tail obviously gets much happier with speed because pendulum, especially on the 50:50 balanced car.
@@piotrmalewski8178 miatas are awful aerodynamically, the front end starts to lift up near 100mph on a stock car.
@Piotr Malewski That is not how aerodynamics work at all but it can be very counterintuitive. Cars generate lift in the same way that aircraft do; the air has to travel further over the curved top surface than it does the flat surface underneath to meet at the back of the car at the same time, so it needs to travel faster. Faster moving air has a lower pressure ("Bernoulli's principle"), so you end up with a higher pressure under the car and lower pressure above it which lifts it up. This starts to become quite noticable in most cars above about 100mph (160km/h).
Air does not really behave like particles hitting a surface and deflecting it, but through pressure differences acting on the surfaces as a result of their angle and shape.
@@serenahansen2394 Somebody knows their stuff, great explanation!
whoaa how did you managed to get 200hp from that engine thats wild!!! can you share some tips?
You will find all the answers in the comments below.
How do you not overheat the engine? Did you replace cooling?
Yes, cooling reroute, more efficient water and oil coolers are onboard.
Wonder what suspension tunes were done?
At that point it was just B8's with lowering spings and big sway bars. Now I have a proper coilover set and hoping to put it for good use.
Why no Itb ? Already fast enough or for practical reason ? (and/or cost?)
I want to see how much is possible without itbs but they are in the long term plan. Im hesitatnt mainly due noise limits on some tracks I like.
Hi what do your temps run with this setup? Do you use a coolant reroute?
90/120°C water/oil in summer on a fast track like the ring. Yes I do have the coolant reroute on, 36mm core Koyorad and oil cooler.
Seriously 200 hp is all I want……until I get used to it. Lol
Driving now over 10 years this thing and growing my driving gradually together with it and it's mods. I know it is unpopular but what makes most sense is to focus on driving skills first and then on moding the car when you can feel what the car is doing. There is no such thing as must have mods in a Miata. Make sure it breaks properly, forget about excuses, go onto a track with it and have fun - if you did not already.
What are the NA mods you did?
Look for TheSpeedjunkie88 comment.
how do u make 200hp on a 1.8 without a turbo?
For full spec see comments below.
@@arturturcu I've seen this reply on like 3 comments but I can't find your comment :(
@@boktorinator693 see TheSpeedjunkie88 comm and replyes, in case you didnt find it yet
What wheel offset?
Pretty much standard 7j ET37 15" wheels.
dyno sheet??
drive.google.com/file/d/1Eq5Z7bIDzQPp86pzS5R0G1AXl__Z1GtO/view?usp=drivesdk
is it easy to drive it as a daily car?
Ha, easy is relative. It can be driven on the road but being stuck in a traffic jam is a pain indeed.
@@arturturcu why is that? could it be as an s2000?? has to do with ecu management or smt else? sorry for my english
@@MrTAKIS1984 it has to do with the sporty cams and idle set at 1200-1400RPM.
@@arturturcu i see
On a 'square set' of tyres, think how quick he'd be if they were round?
Ha, an semantics challenge. A 'square set' is 'as quick' as 'all'round set' of tyres if the tyres are round in both sets.
I would be so slow.
Even if it would not matter because you would have too much fun to notice.
seems like 5spd Long gears ...
Yes, 5 speed with 4.1 final ratio. New 4.67 ratio already in, stay tuned.
now you shortened your rear so top speed is lower now you can better just swap in a 6spd and have the same effect but not compromising Top end
@@peterbetting9345
First: While I agree that 6 speed would be probably overall a better choice, they are too expensive and hard to get.
Second: I don"t think the actual top speed with high final gear ratio will be much different. I got up to 220 kmh @6.8k RPM and with 4.67 gear should still be able to reach 220 kmh near rev limiter and maybe stightly bigger tire. Hower the gain at Bergwerk-Kesselchen should be noticeable due to better acceleration and as I would be going in 5th instead of 4th in the more torquey lower power band. We'll see.
@@arturturcu what did you pay for the Rear ? 1000€+ sure to get that build ... 6spd is 550-650€
@@peterbetting9345 Well in Poland its much cheaper, 500€ tops. The key thing is when it"s properly build it will probably outlast several gerboxes and 5 speed is still cheap.
PS. sorry, the ratio is actually 4.62 so should actually be good up to 225 kmh.