I simply love love love your attitude, like: "Yeah, yeah. I know you know all of this, but let me explain it for all the dummies." And I am like "Yippie, I am not lectured, but I am the dummie" (I don't have a loom yet, but I know I will not do the direct warping method. It looks so space consuming and I feel very uncomfortable just looking at it, so thank you!)
The round keychain type circles that have little teeth and close together are great for the lease sticks. You can store them together that way as well. And with different sized circles you get different spaces apart for whatever you prefer.
I am trying this technique right now and using this video to refer to at each step. I appreciate the level of detail in this video. Thanks for posting this as well as the warping board one.
I had some space issues with direct warping but using the board looked so intimidating and complicated so i never tried it. Will do it today though!! You explained everything i was worried about very well and now i think ill be able to do it. Thank you so much!!
This is a great video. You are very easy to understand. You are a good teacher. The only problem I am having is finding 48" lease sticks for my Ashford 48" loom. I have looked everywhere for replacement lease sticks and no one has them. The longest I have found are 39 and that won't work. Guess I have to go to the lumber yard and find something that will sand well and won't snag. I love my Ashford heddle looms but I am disappointed that the 48" loom has been forgotten when it comes to parts. None the less, you do a excellent job of explaining this action. Thank you for sharing.
I sold my rigid heddle loom a couple of years ago because direct warping was killing my back. I think this technique would be much easier to do. Thank you!
I have severe back pain when bending or standing. After taking 1.5 weeks to do my last warp (a big one), I decided that I HAD to learn indirect warping. This is the first video I've watch thru & am surprised how clear & actually easy this appears to be . I have an Ashford 32" & prefer fine yarns with a 15 dent heddle, so have lots of ends (especially with doubled warps). I don't see any reason that I can't warp in sections - maybe thirds. I also have some Texsolv heddles I've used with my Mirrix looms & wonder if this is the same as what was used on this loom. Anyhow, for the first time, I have hope of mastering indirect warping.
Is there any reason why you chose to thread all your yarn through the slots ? I’d like to go right ahead and take the yarns one by one and thread “slot-hole-slot-hole” as is the rigid heddle were a reed like on a shaft loom. I have a complicated colors pattern and think it could be easier to thread that way. Of course I know that the loops would need cutting and tied to the back beam. Anyone have thoughts ????😮
@@BorgaFamily Yes, I agree. You'd have to tie them all to the back. My question is this: Would it threaten the integrity of the threads when they get wound on to the back beam If anyone puts threads into a hole and the next into a slot? I always see people thread all the slots before winding on.
I'm VERY new to weaving but going from a warping board to the loom with the cross and all of that seems more complicated than direct warping. I'm so confused lol
Jan, You did a fantastic job explaining how and love your authenticity and beautiful energy!
Great instructor, appreciate the the cameras angles which added clarity.
I always find it handy to put ties on each arm of the cross as well. Prevents the possibility of not catching all the yarns for one side or the other.
I never get tired of watching weaving videos. Yours is really good
I simply love love love your attitude, like: "Yeah, yeah. I know you know all of this, but let me explain it for all the dummies." And I am like "Yippie, I am not lectured, but I am the dummie" (I don't have a loom yet, but I know I will not do the direct warping method. It looks so space consuming and I feel very uncomfortable just looking at it, so thank you!)
The round keychain type circles that have little teeth and close together are great for the lease sticks. You can store them together that way as well. And with different sized circles you get different spaces apart for whatever you prefer.
Good idea. Thanks for sharing.
For starters, I'll be switching my Ashford's hard plastic for texsolv; then investing in rubber bands lol. Great video. Great instructor!
Great video! Thank you!
I am trying this technique right now and using this video to refer to at each step. I appreciate the level of detail in this video. Thanks for posting this as well as the warping board one.
I do wonder about using this technique with the lease sticks but slaying the reed/ heddle off the loom--just to have better ergonomics...
Very helpful videos. 🥰
I did it!!! It took me a week of trying and 4 wasted warps, (not really, a friend uses my scraps for stuffing) but I finally did it. Thank you!!!
I had some space issues with direct warping but using the board looked so intimidating and complicated so i never tried it. Will do it today though!! You explained everything i was worried about very well and now i think ill be able to do it. Thank you so much!!
This is a great video. You are very easy to understand. You are a good teacher. The only problem I am having is finding 48" lease sticks for my Ashford 48" loom. I have looked everywhere for replacement lease sticks and no one has them. The longest I have found are 39 and that won't work. Guess I have to go to the lumber yard and find something that will sand well and won't snag. I love my Ashford heddle looms but I am disappointed that the 48" loom has been forgotten when it comes to parts. None the less, you do a excellent job of explaining this action. Thank you for sharing.
THANK YOU!!! Such a time saver for me! Now how to adjust my Ashford back bar ❤
Thank you. Terrific teacher!!!!
Your videos are so very helpful. Is there a need or added benefit to using the ergonomic sley stand?
I sold my rigid heddle loom a couple of years ago because direct warping was killing my back. I think this technique would be much easier to do. Thank you!
Great instructions! Thank you.
Fantastic tutorial, thanks 😀
I have severe back pain when bending or standing. After taking 1.5 weeks to do my last warp (a big one), I decided that I HAD to learn indirect warping. This is the first video I've watch thru & am surprised how clear & actually easy this appears to be . I have an Ashford 32" & prefer fine yarns with a 15 dent heddle, so have lots of ends (especially with doubled warps). I don't see any reason that I can't warp in sections - maybe thirds. I also have some Texsolv heddles I've used with my Mirrix looms & wonder if this is the same as what was used on this loom. Anyhow, for the first time, I have hope of mastering indirect warping.
Thank you
Is there any reason why you chose to thread all your yarn through the slots ? I’d like to go right ahead and take the yarns one by one and thread “slot-hole-slot-hole” as is the rigid heddle were a reed like on a shaft loom. I have a complicated colors pattern and think it could be easier to thread that way. Of course I know that the loops would need cutting and tied to the back beam. Anyone have thoughts ????😮
This process keeps the loops in tack so they can be put on the rod in the back. If you were to cut them, you would have to tie them on the back.
@@BorgaFamily Yes, I agree. You'd have to tie them all to the back. My question is this: Would it threaten the integrity of the threads when they get wound on to the back beam If anyone puts threads into a hole and the next into a slot? I always see people thread all the slots before winding on.
Do you know if the teksolv ties can be used as you described with Kromski harp loom?
I'm VERY new to weaving but going from a warping board to the loom with the cross and all of that seems more complicated than direct warping. I'm so confused lol
Where are the squeeze clamps you used to secure your loom to the table available? Not finding them on the Woolworth website
Lowes or hardware store, used in woodworking