InSinkErator Power 900 (3/4 HP) - amzn.to/48DcTb2 InSinkErator Power Cord (New Style) - geni.us/KaV65 InSinkErator Badger 5 (1/2 HP) - geni.us/v1GANm4 InSinkErator Badger 5XP (3/4 HP) geni.us/sQAPA InSinkErator Power Switch and Outlet Box - geni.us/qzTznyW Plumbers Putty - geni.us/3MFFN4 1 1/2" Drain Extension (12" long) - geni.us/BzhoB4 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
The thing I like about the Insinkerators is they are an american manufacturer, so to be competitive with whatever chinese junk is also on the market, they try to re-use the same parts in as many models as possible. When I replaced my badger due to rusting (it lasted over a decade if you can believe it) I was able to re-use all of the fittings from the old one, including the locking ring for the sink. Some tricks for these badgers: 1) If you lose the allen key that comes with the unit, they usually sell them right next to the garbage disposals at your local big box store, but they usually cost as much as a full allen key set so get one of those for the manual option. 2) If it jams or starts to sieze due to rust, you can usually eek out a little more life from the unit even if a manual allen key can't break it loose. A better solution to their key is to get a set of straight allen key bits for your impact driver. When it jams, make sure the disposal is off and stick the impact driver with bit into the hole in the center of the unit and run the driver in reverse to hopefully unjam the disposal. Confirm it is cleared by running the impact driver both ways so you knock any rust loose and clear any jams. Double check that the unit's breaker didn't trip (usually a button on the bottom of the disposal), then re-connect the power and try it out. If it works I recommend doing a full sink flush to clear out any debris. 3) RUST. Make sure your dish soap and dishwasher detergent DO NOT have citrus ingredients. Galvanized parts + citric acid = a battery, basically. It eats away at the galvanized coating on your sink, disposal, and dishwasher parts eventually leading to rust. Most dishwashers say not to use citrus-based detergents for this reason, as the sacrificial metal being eaten away is usually the finish on your pots, pans, and silverware. It causes pitting on any metallic object you are washing, and those metal ions and citric acid get pumped into your disposal to make it rust even faster. And for the love of god, don't use citrus peels to make your disposal smell better for the reasons listed above. Hope that helps someone!
The video cover all the information needed to install. Well done. I have paid more for mine and had it for 16 years and we use it a bunch since we cook a lot. Thank you for sharing
Years ago I installed a disposal on a cast iron kitchen sink original to the house from 1938. Very easy install, just like the video. My mistake was going cheap. It rusted out, refusing to spin. Swapping out was easy, this time looked for stainless parts. So far still running. Advice: Careful what you put down them. Notorious for creating clogs downstream are grease, fat, bread and dry pasta. These go in the garbage.
For the dishwasher drain line, aren't you supposed to loop that up to the top of the inside of the cabinet? My setup is nearly identical to this one in the video and I recall when I installed my dishwasher, the instructions explicitly say to bring the dishwasher drain line up to the top of the cabinet before sloping it down to the drain connection.
Wouldn't that depend on where the connection is, either before or after the trap. If its before the trap it would allow gas to come from the sewer system unless you put in that loop you are talking about?
@@clayman1000x The "high-loop" in the DW drain is not to prevent sewer gas, that's what the trap in the drain is for, and the DW drain should always be connected upstream from the trap, unlike the way this one was. The "high-loop" (which should be attached to the bottom of the counter top) is to prevent water from back feeding or siphoning into the DW if your sink drains back up. The loop should be as high or higher than the maximum water level in your sinks.
Yes. An air gap fixture is installed above, on the sink ledge or counter. Prevents the discharged waste water from back-flowing into the washer should there be a blockage in the line or the disposer side. Water is directed via the air gap cover vent holes, into the sink It could possible save a huge mess and prevent floor/cabinet water damage.
Good vid- thank you. I highly recommend keeping an eye on the hose for that faucet. I will never again personally own a faucet where the nozzle extends using a hose-and-weight system - after years of abrasion, I had a water leak causing more than $10k worth of damage.
I would also buy the quieter, more expensive model. But you do need a "high loop" bracket on your dishwasher drain hose. Look it up if you don't know what I mean.
My builder installed a 3/4hp badger. Stupid thing would jam crushing ice cubes. Went with a 1.25hp American Standard, now I'm worried if the undermount sink will one day fall from all that torque xD
You've maybe talked me into the 900. Maybe. I don't really miss waste disposers, but then again, I've always had the cheapy ones that corrode. These days I just have a strainer basket that catches food debris and toss in my compost.
Anything other than an Insinkerator disposal (Evolution Series) is asking for problems down the road. This is one of those things you don’t want to “cheap out” on.
Interesting. I just replaced a Badger 1. It only lasted thirty years. I replaced it with a new Badger 1. I guess in another thirty years, it will be someone else’s problem. The thing that surprised me the most was that Insinkerator still makes the exact same model. I wonder just how long they’ve been making them.
I replaced the garbage disposal in the place I used to be in (never used it, but after 19 years it started leaking through the reset button) which I didn’t have to do, but did for the experience. The most important part: the plumber’s putty. I wanted to repair the old one, but corrosion wore out the dinky screws holding the halves together.
Yes, one place I rented had about the most sorry disposal that bogged down even with just simple running water. It also sounded like a lawn mower. I just never used it. I don't even remember what brand it was (neither ISE or Badger).
My house came with an InSinkErator Badger 5. It worked well for maybe 2 years at best? We never even really used it hardly at all, and never put anything even slightly hard down it. The Badger 5 had a lot of clogging problems even without use, requiring a manual moving of the grind disk any time water went on that side of the sink, then the teeth on the disk started coming loose at one point and eventually just started clogging up so much from buildup in it even though it wasnt being used hardly that it made the motor draw too much current and would trip the internal breaker on it. So from my experience the lower priced models seem to be "garbage". I thought about giving the top end model a try, the 1HP Evolution one, but I was so sour on the brand I ended up with a Moen GX100C instead. It has been working great for me so far. So my recommendation is to stay away from any of the lower end models of InSinkErator
I had a badger installed initially by the builder and I replaced it with a badger so that I did not have to modify any pipes etc. Easy to replace with what was there before
Great video. I am not in favor of garbage disposals any longer and would prefer a single large sink, but i dont live alone, so I loose that vote. I would certainly chose the one you did, not the cheep flat bottomed thin steel one, with no insulation. If your dish washer has a macerator built in, i would put that drain tap back in and not use the disposal to reduce the rust etc. If not, it is best as you installed it. I would make a high point on the DW drain hose, maybe with a air gap, to prevent siphoning back.
Check local codes on that dishwasher discharge connection. Local licensed plumber said our codes no longer allows the discharge going into the disposer as it causes it to rust faster. He said since he's licensed he couldn't do it, but since I'm the homeowner doing it myself then I could get away with it. After owning a few homes in the past, and replacing multiple garbage disposals, I recommend a higher hp. They seem to have a longer life and more insulation for sound proofing. Spend the additional $$ up front so you don't have to do it again in a couple of years.
Oh, the Waste King 1 HP disposer is currently $115 at Amazon. We replaced our builder grade disposer with this 10 years ago. It is pretty quiet and has never ever failed or jammed up. Better than the 900 for $150.
Yup - what Fred said. We did this on our house when the standard builder grade badger went out ... holy crap that Waste King 1HP will chew up stuff good sounds like a jet plane taking off. I plan to put one in our NEW home soon.
Shouldn't that outlet be GFCI since it's under the sink? Really enjoy your videos, by the way--they've really empowered me to tackle a lot of projects around the home, and now EHR is my go-to when I'm looking for a DIY tutorial on how to do something specific.
Probably $50 more for the Power 900 over the Badger 5/500. If you are going to do the project any way I think it is worth the upgrade 👍 amzn.to/3Aoh3an
When not using a disposer the dishwasher drain should always be plumbed in upstream of the trap. The whole idea of the trap is to prevent sewer gas infiltration into the house.
Good catch. The original setup in the video (before installing the disposal) is not right. As you said, you want the dishwasher drain to flow into the trap.
I hardly use my garbage disposal (installed in 2019) simply because I don't want to deal with odors that could emanate from food residue. But if it ever failed, I'd go with the 900 3/4 disposal.
I've wanted a disposal unit but I don't see a plug under my sink and definitely don't have a switch around the counter top. I'll have to use that push button you suggested and see how my dishwasher is wired.
Had the same issue. I bought the air switch and ran its cord back in the hole with the dishwasher drain line and plugged it in the outlet for that. Had to pull the dishwasher out to access it but that was actually pretty easy.
You have only one valve on the water to the sink faucet and dishwasher. New York code requires a separate valve for each. The big-box store deliverer refused to install a new dishwasher because my under-sink setup only had one valve.
Last apartment I lived in had removed it before I moved in. Claimed they damage the plumbing. Nonsense. Was a major inconvenience, keeping rotting garbage in the kitchen, then having mountains of rotting garbage festering in the dumpsters for al to smell.
I installed a 1/3 HP Badger in my first house in 1989 and it ran flawlessly thru when we sold the house in 2003. I now use the upgraded one in my own house but the cheaper one in the apartments that I work on because the owners like cheap. But good video Scott!
Wiring always scares me. We have a hallway light that has a switch at each end of the hallway. I'd love to know how to change out those switches. One is an old dimmer switch and the other makes a crackling sound if you use it, we don't. LOL
We just did a project like that at our house for the same reason. The package inserts for the three-way switches have very thorough instructions. Put if off for years and it took about 10 minutes.
Whoever originally did the plumbing in my house decided it was smart to use a confusing combination of copper and braided hoses and adapters without ANY valves under the kitchen sink, so until something breaks under there it's a no go zone for me lol
I've honestly never seen the point of garbage disposals. They always seem to cause more issues than they are worth (clogs, breakdowns, etc.). Just get a decent basket strainer and empty it in the trash when its full.
Please tell me you didn't leave the wording on the flange upside down like I see it at 3:15. It's so easy to get that properly aligned when you install it and looks more professional for the rest of its existence. Then again, perhaps I'm just too OCD about alignment.
Never had one before in any kitchen either in apartments from early days or past or current homes. These should be obsolete in 2024. Why? Because the food waste you are forcing down into water treatment systems (city/town) would be better sent to compost bins (locally or city/town provided). All that food could be turned into topsoil for your future gardens and lawn care.
Typically due to galvanized steel being exclusively used - cover control series uses stainless steel, far better materials, definitely worth the extra $200
InSinkErator Power 900 (3/4 HP) - amzn.to/48DcTb2
InSinkErator Power Cord (New Style) - geni.us/KaV65
InSinkErator Badger 5 (1/2 HP) - geni.us/v1GANm4
InSinkErator Badger 5XP (3/4 HP) geni.us/sQAPA
InSinkErator Power Switch and Outlet Box - geni.us/qzTznyW
Plumbers Putty - geni.us/3MFFN4
1 1/2" Drain Extension (12" long) - geni.us/BzhoB4
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Awesome video! Don't forget to put a high loop into your dishwasher discharge to prevent back flow.
Good call out, thanks for the feedback!
The thing I like about the Insinkerators is they are an american manufacturer, so to be competitive with whatever chinese junk is also on the market, they try to re-use the same parts in as many models as possible. When I replaced my badger due to rusting (it lasted over a decade if you can believe it) I was able to re-use all of the fittings from the old one, including the locking ring for the sink. Some tricks for these badgers:
1) If you lose the allen key that comes with the unit, they usually sell them right next to the garbage disposals at your local big box store, but they usually cost as much as a full allen key set so get one of those for the manual option.
2) If it jams or starts to sieze due to rust, you can usually eek out a little more life from the unit even if a manual allen key can't break it loose. A better solution to their key is to get a set of straight allen key bits for your impact driver. When it jams, make sure the disposal is off and stick the impact driver with bit into the hole in the center of the unit and run the driver in reverse to hopefully unjam the disposal. Confirm it is cleared by running the impact driver both ways so you knock any rust loose and clear any jams. Double check that the unit's breaker didn't trip (usually a button on the bottom of the disposal), then re-connect the power and try it out. If it works I recommend doing a full sink flush to clear out any debris.
3) RUST. Make sure your dish soap and dishwasher detergent DO NOT have citrus ingredients. Galvanized parts + citric acid = a battery, basically. It eats away at the galvanized coating on your sink, disposal, and dishwasher parts eventually leading to rust. Most dishwashers say not to use citrus-based detergents for this reason, as the sacrificial metal being eaten away is usually the finish on your pots, pans, and silverware. It causes pitting on any metallic object you are washing, and those metal ions and citric acid get pumped into your disposal to make it rust even faster. And for the love of god, don't use citrus peels to make your disposal smell better for the reasons listed above.
Hope that helps someone!
We've always had a garbage disposal at home. Absolute must for me.
The video cover all the information needed to install. Well done. I have paid more for mine and had it for 16 years and we use it a bunch since we cook a lot. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the feedback and support 🙌
Years ago I installed a disposal on a cast iron kitchen sink original to the house from 1938. Very easy install, just like the video. My mistake was going cheap. It rusted out, refusing to spin. Swapping out was easy, this time looked for stainless parts. So far still running.
Advice: Careful what you put down them. Notorious for creating clogs downstream are grease, fat, bread and dry pasta. These go in the garbage.
Big fan here. I love how easy and simple it is to understand your videos!! The topics you choose too are so relatable as a home owner
For the dishwasher drain line, aren't you supposed to loop that up to the top of the inside of the cabinet? My setup is nearly identical to this one in the video and I recall when I installed my dishwasher, the instructions explicitly say to bring the dishwasher drain line up to the top of the cabinet before sloping it down to the drain connection.
Wouldn't that depend on where the connection is, either before or after the trap. If its before the trap it would allow gas to come from the sewer system unless you put in that loop you are talking about?
@@clayman1000x The "high-loop" in the DW drain is not to prevent sewer gas, that's what the trap in the drain is for, and the DW drain should always be connected upstream from the trap, unlike the way this one was. The "high-loop" (which should be attached to the bottom of the counter top) is to prevent water from back feeding or siphoning into the DW if your sink drains back up. The loop should be as high or higher than the maximum water level in your sinks.
Yes. An air gap fixture is installed above, on the sink ledge or counter. Prevents the discharged waste water from back-flowing into the washer should there be a blockage in the line or the disposer side. Water is directed via the air gap cover vent holes, into the sink
It could possible save a huge mess and prevent floor/cabinet water damage.
Yes you’re correct you’re supposed to have it mounted to the top so when your sink backs up it won’t go into your dishwasher
Good vid- thank you.
I highly recommend keeping an eye on the hose for that faucet. I will never again personally own a faucet where the nozzle extends using a hose-and-weight system - after years of abrasion, I had a water leak causing more than $10k worth of damage.
I would also buy the quieter, more expensive model. But you do need a "high loop" bracket on your dishwasher drain hose. Look it up if you don't know what I mean.
yeah, I usually just drill the hole much higher through the sink base for the high loop but you are right this installation was missing that detail.
Great video again as usual Scott.
My builder installed a 3/4hp badger. Stupid thing would jam crushing ice cubes. Went with a 1.25hp American Standard, now I'm worried if the undermount sink will one day fall from all that torque xD
I don't even need one. I just came to watch. Great video!
Thanks!
You've maybe talked me into the 900. Maybe. I don't really miss waste disposers, but then again, I've always had the cheapy ones that corrode. These days I just have a strainer basket that catches food debris and toss in my compost.
What a great seminar/lesson/demonstration! Wow! Good video!
Thanks so much for the feedback!
That switch is awesome if you have an outlet under the sink but no switch on the wall makes things so much easier. Highly recommend it.
Completely agree, much easier project for most homeowners instead of trying to install a new switch on the wall.
Anything other than an Insinkerator disposal (Evolution Series) is asking for problems down the road. This is one of those things you don’t want to “cheap out” on.
Interesting. I just replaced a Badger 1. It only lasted thirty years. I replaced it with a new Badger 1. I guess in another thirty years, it will be someone else’s problem.
The thing that surprised me the most was that Insinkerator still makes the exact same model. I wonder just how long they’ve been making them.
definitely upgrading to the 900 next time.....tired of the rust failure
I replaced the garbage disposal in the place I used to be in (never used it, but after 19 years it started leaking through the reset button) which I didn’t have to do, but did for the experience.
The most important part: the plumber’s putty. I wanted to repair the old one, but corrosion wore out the dinky screws holding the halves together.
Yes, one place I rented had about the most sorry disposal that bogged down even with just simple running water. It also sounded like a lawn mower. I just never used it. I don't even remember what brand it was (neither ISE or Badger).
My house came with an InSinkErator Badger 5. It worked well for maybe 2 years at best? We never even really used it hardly at all, and never put anything even slightly hard down it. The Badger 5 had a lot of clogging problems even without use, requiring a manual moving of the grind disk any time water went on that side of the sink, then the teeth on the disk started coming loose at one point and eventually just started clogging up so much from buildup in it even though it wasnt being used hardly that it made the motor draw too much current and would trip the internal breaker on it. So from my experience the lower priced models seem to be "garbage". I thought about giving the top end model a try, the 1HP Evolution one, but I was so sour on the brand I ended up with a Moen GX100C instead. It has been working great for me so far.
So my recommendation is to stay away from any of the lower end models of InSinkErator
I had a badger installed initially by the builder and I replaced it with a badger so that I did not have to modify any pipes etc. Easy to replace with what was there before
Wow! Would you recommend installing this in a toilet?
My dog is the garbage disposer
Those are the best kind 💯
At my cousin's house, their dog is also their dishwasher's pre-rinse cycle LOL 🤣
I'll be checking into this project soon.
Always enjoy your videos. A buddy of mine forgot to take the DW plug out before connecting the DW line and what a mess.
Oh man, that would suck!
i have heard of that happening several times. It is more common than you think.
Great video. I am not in favor of garbage disposals any longer and would prefer a single large sink, but i dont live alone, so I loose that vote. I would certainly chose the one you did, not the cheep flat bottomed thin steel one, with no insulation.
If your dish washer has a macerator built in, i would put that drain tap back in and not use the disposal to reduce the rust etc. If not, it is best as you installed it. I would make a high point on the DW drain hose, maybe with a air gap, to prevent siphoning back.
Check local codes on that dishwasher discharge connection. Local licensed plumber said our codes no longer allows the discharge going into the disposer as it causes it to rust faster. He said since he's licensed he couldn't do it, but since I'm the homeowner doing it myself then I could get away with it.
After owning a few homes in the past, and replacing multiple garbage disposals, I recommend a higher hp. They seem to have a longer life and more insulation for sound proofing. Spend the additional $$ up front so you don't have to do it again in a couple of years.
Oh, the Waste King 1 HP disposer is currently $115 at Amazon. We replaced our builder grade disposer with this 10 years ago. It is pretty quiet and has never ever failed or jammed up. Better than the 900 for $150.
Yup - what Fred said. We did this on our house when the standard builder grade badger went out ... holy crap that Waste King 1HP will chew up stuff good sounds like a jet plane taking off. I plan to put one in our NEW home soon.
I have a Short Term Rental Property that uses a septic Tank. Tank is 1500 gal.. What InSinkErator model would be best for that?
Great tips and very easy for other DIY skilled person. But hides the pain of working on your knees and trying work looking up….LOL
Shouldn't that outlet be GFCI since it's under the sink? Really enjoy your videos, by the way--they've really empowered me to tackle a lot of projects around the home, and now EHR is my go-to when I'm looking for a DIY tutorial on how to do something specific.
house came with the contractor grade 1/3hp badger, still working after 9 years. will replace with an upgraded 1+ hp model when it breaks/leaks
Great video...price difference for upgrade?? 900?
Probably $50 more for the Power 900 over the Badger 5/500. If you are going to do the project any way I think it is worth the upgrade 👍 amzn.to/3Aoh3an
@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for your reply 😊
Aren't you suppose to use a GFCI outlet bcos ur next to a water source?
It looks great, except that my OCD could not handle the writing on the sink flange not being straight and facing me.
Ha, I thought about that but decided to keep it a little misaligned.
As a plumber of 35 years, this is a peeve of ours.
You forgot to mention some of the older houses.The line going into the wall.Is at a different height and that changes everything
Thanks!
I went for the InSinkErator Evolution Excel 8 about a year and a half ago. Super quiet and powerful. Definitely worth the extra bucks.
Fancy, I like your style 👍
When not using a disposer the dishwasher drain should always be plumbed in upstream of the trap. The whole idea of the trap is to prevent sewer gas infiltration into the house.
Good catch. The original setup in the video (before installing the disposal) is not right. As you said, you want the dishwasher drain to flow into the trap.
@@running_rich The hose was looped with would create its own trap.
Great video. The question I have is, don't you need a GFCI for the electrical outlet.
I believe that the 2023 NEC update requires all kitchen outlets to be GFCI protected. Something to look into…
Maybe it is done at the breaker
@@jamescaron6465 Or downstream from a counter GCFI receptacle.
@@KameraShycorrect!
great video!
I hardly use my garbage disposal (installed in 2019) simply because I don't want to deal with odors that could emanate from food residue. But if it ever failed, I'd go with the 900 3/4 disposal.
Thanks for the feedback!
I've wanted a disposal unit but I don't see a plug under my sink and definitely don't have a switch around the counter top. I'll have to use that push button you suggested and see how my dishwasher is wired.
Had the same issue. I bought the air switch and ran its cord back in the hole with the dishwasher drain line and plugged it in the outlet for that. Had to pull the dishwasher out to access it but that was actually pretty easy.
My method for changing out my garbage disposal was to curse the most I’ve ever in my life and then vow that I’ll hire a plumber next time.
Seems fair 😂
You have only one valve on the water to the sink faucet and dishwasher. New York code requires a separate valve for each. The big-box store deliverer refused to install a new dishwasher because my under-sink setup only had one valve.
You’re such a nice landlord letting your tenants have a garbage disposal. Most take them out to reduce maintenance issues.
Last apartment I lived in had removed it before I moved in. Claimed they damage the plumbing. Nonsense. Was a major inconvenience, keeping rotting garbage in the kitchen, then having mountains of rotting garbage festering in the dumpsters for al to smell.
I installed a 1/3 HP Badger in my first house in 1989 and it ran flawlessly thru when we sold the house in 2003. I now use the upgraded one in my own house but the cheaper one in the apartments that I work on because the owners like cheap. But good video Scott!
can you provide tips on how to install that model on a toilet?
Wiring always scares me. We have a hallway light that has a switch at each end of the hallway. I'd love to know how to change out those switches. One is an old dimmer switch and the other makes a crackling sound if you use it, we don't. LOL
We just did a project like that at our house for the same reason. The package inserts for the three-way switches have very thorough instructions. Put if off for years and it took about 10 minutes.
Whoever originally did the plumbing in my house decided it was smart to use a confusing combination of copper and braided hoses and adapters without ANY valves under the kitchen sink, so until something breaks under there it's a no go zone for me lol
If I get my septic tank pumped yearly, can I have a garbage disposal ?
That straight pipe out from the disposal is going to shoot dirty water & grindings up into the other sink.
Shouldn't you have some slope on the disposal drain pipe so water doesn't just sit in the there?
1/4" per foot. Such a short piece. The disposal will certainly push any water through.
Hi which klein 11-in-1 impact do you recommend the ratcheting or non ratcheting?
I have both but tend to just use the standard non-ratcheting style amzn.to/4fwN3rC
As a homeowner diyer which one should I get the 14-in-1 or this 11-in-1?
@@VJTrey1 I just saw the 16-in-1 hybrid this morning and already ordered one 😂. With that said the 11-in-1 has treated me well for years.
I've honestly never seen the point of garbage disposals. They always seem to cause more issues than they are worth (clogs, breakdowns, etc.). Just get a decent basket strainer and empty it in the trash when its full.
👏👏👍👍
I cant stand sinks with the rinse / disposal sink on the left. Maybe because I'm different handed.
Most of mine have always been on the left, maybe by chance.
For me, it would depend on which side of the sink the counter work area is.
Please tell me you didn't leave the wording on the flange upside down like I see it at 3:15. It's so easy to get that properly aligned when you install it and looks more professional for the rest of its existence. Then again, perhaps I'm just too OCD about alignment.
I failed 😞. Kind of like lining up the screws on an outlet or light switch cover plate. I will do better 💯
Like who looks under a kitchen sink to notice?
@@KameraShy The lettering on the flange faces up towards the faucet. You see it every time you use the sink.
Never had one before in any kitchen either in apartments from early days or past or current homes. These should be obsolete in 2024. Why? Because the food waste you are forcing down into water treatment systems (city/town) would be better sent to compost bins (locally or city/town provided). All that food could be turned into topsoil for your future gardens and lawn care.
This comment shows real wisdom.
Badger 500 is such a bad design. They rust out in no time.
Typically due to galvanized steel being exclusively used - cover control series uses stainless steel, far better materials, definitely worth the extra $200
For $10 more...why not. Real question is 100 vs 500.
Yeah, if you are going to put in the effort I think it is worth investing in the higher end model. I am not a fan of the 1/3 HP units.
@EverydayHomeRepairs It would depend on if it's mine vs rental. Rental are abused so better would be cheaper in long run for sure
Don't bother with the garbage disposal waste the money most things don't go down it and if they do they'll clog your sink
My friends favorite job is to get rid of those stupid carburetors because they cause so much trouble in rentals