I have found almost all oncidiums, Miltonia, miltoniopsis and intergenerics I get have fusarium. I think you are correct about nurseries cutting costs. Now any time I get these types of orchids they automatically get treated for fusarium. I've lost to many plants and struggled to save the rest so now I don't mess about and just assume they have it.
@@GrowingOrchidswithRoger There is no cure for it. I think the trick is to keep them healthy enough to stay ahead of it. I checked every orchid I bought for a while and 2 out of 3 came infected. But they were blooming or otherwise healthy. I was trying to keep it away from my other orchid's. I don't buy anymore. There are 2 vendors I know in the US that are clean and the most prestigious one is the worst.
We create these things for ourselves by generating an 'over-competitive' market by demanding everything as cheap as possible. It seems that the days are gone where people would pay extra for quality.
ummm... can I go total GEEK for the moment and say, I am hoping to do virology or microbiology, I love bacteria, viruses etc... they are incredibly interesting... and fungi are just totally funky...
I ended up with fusarium on several plants from an individual that I didn’t know about for a while. Ended up throwing out about a dozen specimen size plants. Hope you’re doing well!
This is the problem - it's like a silent killer and I'm sure it's lurking in many collections without being known. And then it gets passed on from one to another. It can be treated if caught early enough. Once discovered, many don't take any risks and dump the plants - 'better safe than sorry' but I like to try and save them if they're not a hopeless case. I did have a species Vanda that had it and it never recovered - almost impossible with monopodials.
Damaged tissue is what I see on my plants.I have removed three sickly slipper orchids from my collection and after watching the fusarium (spelling?) on vandas I have decided against.
I just found fusarium in an oncidium that hasn’t done well for over a year. No flowering. I had already treated in with Miracle Orchids regimen twice, so in the garbage it went. I have 2 more that are divisions of the infected plant that I now need to check and potentially trash. The only symptoms are no blooming for >1 year, smaller pseudobulbs and very slowed growth.
Hi Roger. Does the systemic fungicide treatment slow the plants down? Should I treat all new orchids and treat all on a regular basis? Thanks for the info.
I hope you video the reporting of your Sunset even though you've done the new ones. I think from what you explained, it would be what you called a "pot up", using same media in bigger pot. Helpful to see it done. Thank you for all info and I am hoping I don't have it but can think of 2 plants having symptoms you described.
Thanks Roger. Phew I thought once you get fusarium that it's game over but glad to know that a systemic fungicide will be able to kill it. Luckily I got some a while ago to deflask some orchids seedlings.
Very informative and useful - thank you. Two questions: What brand of systemic fungicide is available in your area, and can you soak the roots in it without having to repot?
The only systemic I can get in the UK that works is Bayer's Fungus Fighter Plus concentrate. To treat a plant without repotting, yes you can still stand the pot in the liquid or just pour the liquid through the pot many times until it's soaked.
I've just watched video a friend gave me all her orchids and they all have red ring. Now do I just repot and use systemic, do I spray all over till there wet I use bark perlite and charcoal. If anybody else can help I'd love to hear from you thank you
Check the specific instructions for the type of systemic fungicide as it will need multiple treatments (at least two) with a certain gap in between. What I usually do is spray the whole plant - every bit - leaves top and bottom, canes/bulbs and around the base. Then I water the pot with the solution too to make sure the roots are soaked and can take in the solution through the roots. Repeat as per instructions. I call that set 'treatment one' and then repeat the whole thing again after 3 months. Good luck.
Will the purple ring remain even after the fusarium is killed? Or will it disappear? Like if you treat it, and then cut into it months or a year or whatever leater into the old growth u know was infected.. will the ring still be there? even though its techincally cured?
The purple will always be there in infected parts of the orchids. If successful and the plant grows, eventually, those parts can be cut off and disposed of.
@@GrowingOrchidswithRoger ah i see, so in theory you will only really know in time as the old parts die / are removed if its actually cured when you eventually reach "clean tissue"? thanks for answering
In the EU, that cross was probably done in just one of the large mass-producers and then sent off to the lab for cloning. It could be that it got in during one of the processes and is in all the plants from that batch.
My Miltonia sunset had a set back recently. The new psb was smaller but even so flowered although unexpectedly as she had bloomed last september and the psb did not seem mature yet. These blooms were smaller than usual and lasted a very short period of time. One of the oldest psb went orangy colour but not soggy. Anyway, i discarded it and ended up with two seperate psb each one with a nice new growth. When I checked the rhizome did not have the purple ring but it was not creamy colour either. In fact it was more pink than they usually are, no ring, just pinkish. I did the fungus treatment in the meantime but do you reckon this could be fusarium?
Roger, do you re-use the Tebu...solution for a second time ? I mean when you treated a plant for F. do you use the same solution after 10 or 12 days, or a fresh made solution ?
Dear Roger ,great information. Question , you said you soak the plant overnight in the systemic solution, then you spray the leaves. Wouldn't it be better to soak the entire plant overnight? Looking forward to hearing from you. Much Thanks ahead Fred Buonocore Shelter Island ,N.Y.
"no more than four treatments in a year...12/4, that's three" That would depend on if the two treatments done 12 days apart count as one or two treatments. If they count separately, then it would be six months apart. Fusarium seems to be so prevalent, I just treat any new plant for it, regardless of where it came from.
Very helpful as always Roger! I have had orchids that I’ve feared had the dreaded “F” and others which I was darn sure. My question is-on the “maybe” cases, when cutting into the rhizome what I saw was a very thin purplish/brown outline at the level of the shell. And after hacking and treating, was later told that it may have in fact been simply a layer of dead sheath vs the real purple ring. Is this right? Is there really a difference? Have you ever seen what I’m describing? Thanks again for all your wisdom!
Yes - there is a natural dark colour around the outside of the rhizomes and it varies from orchid to orchid. Fusarium is a distinct colour inside that outside layer and it is pinkish-purple. Once seen - never forgotten. There are plenty of close-up pics on the internet.
Oh Roger . It is your culture which is at fault. The plants are stressed after their travels and your conditions are not ideal and this is why you have this problem.Brian-g
@Ben Jay Dear Ben,this is not fusarium in any way shape or form. It is a simple cultural problem that caused this. You are like so many people using the internet.Clueless Brian
I have found almost all oncidiums, Miltonia, miltoniopsis and intergenerics I get have fusarium. I think you are correct about nurseries cutting costs. Now any time I get these types of orchids they automatically get treated for fusarium. I've lost to many plants and struggled to save the rest so now I don't mess about and just assume they have it.
I'm the same plus all my orchids gets a routine treatment twice a year.
I love your honesty in the beginning of this video. I have been through hell with this disease. You give me a new way of thinking of it.
There was a time when I'd never heard of it and some orchids died without me knowing why. If it's not too far gone, it can be treated.
@@GrowingOrchidswithRoger There is no cure for it. I think the trick is to keep them healthy enough to stay ahead of it. I checked every orchid I bought for a while and 2 out of 3 came infected. But they were blooming or otherwise healthy. I was trying to keep it away from my other orchid's. I don't buy anymore. There are 2 vendors I know in the US that are clean and the most prestigious one is the worst.
you are a legend mate !
thanks from Down Under
Mentor! A very interesting video!
Thank you for sharing your tremendous knowledge
with us!
You're welcome.
Thank you for this educacional video, and for mentioning Ana Maria I follow her as well, its great to watch great orchid growers!!!
That's exactly what I thought too. Cost cutting and not using fungicides as much as they should. 10000% hit that right on the bell.
We create these things for ourselves by generating an 'over-competitive' market by demanding everything as cheap as possible. It seems that the days are gone where people would pay extra for quality.
That's true.
Thanks again for this information. We NEED to hear this!
Some don't want to.
Thank you! Simple instructions! just what I need. Roots are popping everywhere! New growths too! Spring is coming and it shows on the kids!
Hi Roger, 🙏🏽 so much for sharing your beautiful orchids, your knowledge and love listening your chatting with your orchids.
Definitely on my save list! Thanks Roger, excellent info!
ummm... can I go total GEEK for the moment and say, I am hoping to do virology or microbiology, I love bacteria, viruses etc... they are incredibly interesting... and fungi are just totally funky...
Any type of 'learning' is good - our minds are like a muscle - use it or loose it.
I ended up with fusarium on several plants from an individual that I didn’t know about for a while. Ended up throwing out about a dozen specimen size plants. Hope you’re doing well!
This is the problem - it's like a silent killer and I'm sure it's lurking in many collections without being known. And then it gets passed on from one to another. It can be treated if caught early enough. Once discovered, many don't take any risks and dump the plants - 'better safe than sorry' but I like to try and save them if they're not a hopeless case. I did have a species Vanda that had it and it never recovered - almost impossible with monopodials.
Excellent as always , Rodger! Thank u! There is a light in that dark tunnel, I guess... at least in orchids with rhizomes
Thanks for a good, concise explanation.
You're welcome.
thank you for this video! Most helpful and educating.
You're welcome.
Damaged tissue is what I see on my plants.I have removed three sickly slipper orchids from my collection and after watching the fusarium (spelling?) on vandas I have decided against.
Excellent! Great tips! Like 31 😉Thank you!
Really clear helpful video again.👍
Thanks.
I just found fusarium in an oncidium that hasn’t done well for over a year. No flowering. I had already treated in with Miracle Orchids regimen twice, so in the garbage it went. I have 2 more that are divisions of the infected plant that I now need to check and potentially trash. The only symptoms are no blooming for >1 year, smaller pseudobulbs and very slowed growth.
Hi Roger. Does the systemic fungicide treatment slow the plants down? Should I treat all new orchids and treat all on a regular basis? Thanks for the info.
Not really apart from the fact the plants miss out on a couple of feeds. I treat all new plants and have a regular treatment program as a precaution.
I hope you video the reporting of your Sunset even though you've done
the new ones. I think from what you explained, it would be what you called a "pot up", using same media in bigger pot. Helpful to see it done. Thank you for all info and I am hoping I don't have it but can think of 2 plants having symptoms you described.
The Miltonia Sunset is one of the chosen 'project plants' for regular updates so anything I do to those gets filmed.
Good solid information! Thank you!
You're welcome.
If the fusarium fungus was killed, does the affected area look exactly as if the infection were fresh? or does it change?
It seems to stay the same.
Thanks Roger. Phew I thought once you get fusarium that it's game over but glad to know that a systemic fungicide will be able to kill it. Luckily I got some a while ago to deflask some orchids seedlings.
As it's difficult to detect without cutting a rhizome, some plants may be too badly infected to recover - but it's always worth a try!
It will eventually kill the orchid. The trick is to use different fungicides to keep the healthy part of the orchid ahead of the disease.
Very informative and useful - thank you. Two questions: What brand of systemic fungicide is available in your area, and can you soak the roots in it without having to repot?
The only systemic I can get in the UK that works is Bayer's Fungus Fighter Plus concentrate. To treat a plant without repotting, yes you can still stand the pot in the liquid or just pour the liquid through the pot many times until it's soaked.
Thank you - that’s the one we have here too. I’m definitely concerned about working with the fungicider, but I wear gloves.
I've just watched video a friend gave me all her orchids and they all have red ring. Now do I just repot and use systemic, do I spray all over till there wet I use bark perlite and charcoal. If anybody else can help I'd love to hear from you thank you
Check the specific instructions for the type of systemic fungicide as it will need multiple treatments (at least two) with a certain gap in between. What I usually do is spray the whole plant - every bit - leaves top and bottom, canes/bulbs and around the base. Then I water the pot with the solution too to make sure the roots are soaked and can take in the solution through the roots. Repeat as per instructions. I call that set 'treatment one' and then repeat the whole thing again after 3 months. Good luck.
@@GrowingOrchidswithRoger thank you roger now I'll do that
Will the purple ring remain even after the fusarium is killed? Or will it disappear? Like if you treat it, and then cut into it months or a year or whatever leater into the old growth u know was infected.. will the ring still be there? even though its techincally cured?
The purple will always be there in infected parts of the orchids. If successful and the plant grows, eventually, those parts can be cut off and disposed of.
@@GrowingOrchidswithRoger ah i see, so in theory you will only really know in time as the old parts die / are removed if its actually cured when you eventually reach "clean tissue"? thanks for answering
I've been waiting for a tutorial like this for a while. Very informative, Roger! What is it with Miltonia Sunset? Are they all infected? LOL
In the EU, that cross was probably done in just one of the large mass-producers and then sent off to the lab for cloning. It could be that it got in during one of the processes and is in all the plants from that batch.
My Miltonia sunset had a set back recently. The new psb was smaller but even so flowered although unexpectedly as she had bloomed last september and the psb did not seem mature yet. These blooms were smaller than usual and lasted a very short period of time. One of the oldest psb went orangy colour but not soggy. Anyway, i discarded it and ended up with two seperate psb each one with a nice new growth. When I checked the rhizome did not have the purple ring but it was not creamy colour either. In fact it was more pink than they usually are, no ring, just pinkish. I did the fungus treatment in the meantime but do you reckon this could be fusarium?
Maybe? but it normally shows as a distinct ring around the outside.
Roger, do you re-use the Tebu...solution for a second time ? I mean when you treated a plant for F. do you use the same solution after 10 or 12 days, or a fresh made solution ?
I always mix up fresh.
Dear Roger ,great information. Question , you said you soak the plant overnight in the systemic solution, then you spray the leaves. Wouldn't it be better to soak the entire plant overnight? Looking forward to hearing from you.
Much Thanks ahead
Fred Buonocore Shelter Island ,N.Y.
It could be done that way but would need a larger container and far more of the solution to fill it.
"no more than four treatments in a year...12/4, that's three"
That would depend on if the two treatments done 12 days apart count as one or two treatments. If they count separately, then it would be six months apart.
Fusarium seems to be so prevalent, I just treat any new plant for it, regardless of where it came from.
I think they are referring to 'pairs' of treatments rather than one - I hope so otherwise mine are getting too many.
Very helpful as always Roger! I have had orchids that I’ve feared had the dreaded “F” and others which I was darn sure. My question is-on the “maybe” cases, when cutting into the rhizome what I saw was a very thin purplish/brown outline at the level of the shell. And after hacking and treating, was later told that it may have in fact been simply a layer of dead sheath vs the real purple ring. Is this right? Is there really a difference? Have you ever seen what I’m describing?
Thanks again for all your wisdom!
Yes - there is a natural dark colour around the outside of the rhizomes and it varies from orchid to orchid. Fusarium is a distinct colour inside that outside layer and it is pinkish-purple. Once seen - never forgotten. There are plenty of close-up pics on the internet.
Oh Roger . It is your culture which is at fault. The plants are stressed after their travels and your conditions are not ideal and this is why you have this problem.Brian-g
@Ben Jay Dear Ben,this is not fusarium in any way shape or form. It is a simple cultural problem that caused this. You are like so many people using the internet.Clueless
Brian
Do you actually grow orchids or do you just talk drivel
Brian