Suggest a tiny drop ( and be careful) of threadlock on the bogie screw might help. Perhaps on the end of a piece of wire into the screw socket on the body?
I would cut a piece of thin wall brass tube fractionally longer than the bogie frame thickness a diameter suitable for the screw to pass through and go in the slot. Forget the spring and apply some weight to the he bogie or the axles....
Threadlock came to mind as well. laptops often use this on the screws that hold the base on so bolts can be set firmly in place without over tightening. It takes a little while to set so adjustments can be made then leave to set. The bond can be broken easily if bolt needs adjusting. I am surprised though that they didnt use a shoulder bolt with a washer and spring at the bolt head end to hold boogie in place yet give it the springiness and flexibility it needs yet kept firm in place ant the screw end. it would take a bit of measurement to find a bolt with correct shoulder size but could have small washer at screw ed to raise it up slightly. Plus spring and washer at top end
One of the issues regarding my BR black GT3 was the tender wheels were out of gauge.When I returned the loco to the retailer in person I saw the LMS GT3 the tender wheels on that one were too tight and not free wheeling. The wheel flanges are too shallow my take away from my experience is the manufacturer has struggled to produce GT3 either been a odd design or lack of experience who knows. At least yours works now.
Was the real GT3 ever actually painted in BR green? All the photos I've ever seen of it the livery was a sort of maroon/brown colour. We must be scrupulously historically accurate in these important matters! :) PS: Also the orange roof level warning stripe wasn't applied to locos until long after GT3 had been taken out of service.......
Must say it looks good in green rather than to my mind the awful brown of the prototype. When I think of all the good diesel electrics coming out at the time why this design was ever built is beyond me. I was an avid spotter back then but never saw it so it's a shame it was never put into preservation.
Hi, I'm sure the front bogie issues have been fixed, check with Keith on that and explain the issue. If he says you have the latest fix then we can come up with something that might hold the screw without being a permanent lock. Good luck
I don't know because I've not tried it without. Whatever, it's not a complete cure. Now it's had to go back as the motor failed. I'm not taking a replacement!
As mentioned by others try some thread lock on the pony truck screw And for the cab lights the original model the cab lights came on with F0 and wasn’t independent from the head lights which is why people bitched
The cab lights were on permanently on DC, which is what the complaints were about according to the email I got back from KR Models. I don't know about DCC options as I don't use it.
My GT3 from the first release, not experienced your problem but it has one niggle and that is it will not pull more than three coaches without wheel spin on any incline on our club layout, on the flat five or six coaches no bother. It has been suggested that I add some weight to the loco any ideas anyone. Bill from down under
I'm still disappointed by this, it was, prototypical or not, a really interesting model to run. Sadly, this has put me off buying anything else from KR Models. Thanks for watching
Suggest a tiny drop ( and be careful) of threadlock on the bogie screw might help. Perhaps on the end of a piece of wire into the screw socket on the body?
Yes, something I'm looking into, thanks for the info
I would cut a piece of thin wall brass tube fractionally longer than the bogie frame thickness a diameter suitable for the screw to pass through and go in the slot. Forget the spring and apply some weight to the he bogie or the axles....
Thanks for that
Threadlock came to mind as well. laptops often use this on the screws that hold the base on so bolts can be set firmly in place without over tightening. It takes a little while to set so adjustments can be made then leave to set. The bond can be broken easily if bolt needs adjusting. I am surprised though that they didnt use a shoulder bolt with a washer and spring at the bolt head end to hold boogie in place yet give it the springiness and flexibility it needs yet kept firm in place ant the screw end. it would take a bit of measurement to find a bolt with correct shoulder size but could have small washer at screw ed to raise it up slightly. Plus spring and washer at top end
This is something I am investigating further. Thanks for the comment & idea!
One of the issues regarding my BR black GT3 was the tender wheels were out of gauge.When I returned the loco to the retailer in person I saw the LMS GT3 the tender wheels on that one were too tight and not free wheeling. The wheel flanges are too shallow my take away from my experience is the manufacturer has struggled to produce GT3 either been a odd design or lack of experience who knows. At least yours works now.
I leaning towards that opinion on KR Models too. As far as mine working now, I may have an update on that coming up!
Was the real GT3 ever actually painted in BR green? All the photos I've ever seen of it the livery was a sort of maroon/brown colour.
We must be scrupulously historically accurate in these important matters! :)
PS: Also the orange roof level warning stripe wasn't applied to locos until long after GT3 had been taken out of service.......
It is sold as a fictitious livery to be fair & it looks nicer than the original brown, in my opinion of course.
Must say it looks good in green rather than to my mind the awful brown of the prototype. When I think of all the good diesel electrics coming out at the time why this design was ever built is beyond me. I was an avid spotter back then but never saw it so it's a shame it was never put into preservation.
I preferred the green & I don't think Rails had the brown version in the deal, or they'd already sold out.
My Bachmann A4 derails or rather falls off the track on any track under 3rd radius curve.
I don't have one of them - which seems like a good thing!
Hi, I'm sure the front bogie issues have been fixed, check with Keith on that and explain the issue. If he says you have the latest fix then we can come up with something that might hold the screw without being a permanent lock. Good luck
It appears the only "fix" is they added the tiny washer which wasn't on the original batch.
@@fairweathertrains3029 does it help?
I don't know because I've not tried it without. Whatever, it's not a complete cure. Now it's had to go back as the motor failed. I'm not taking a replacement!
As mentioned by others try some thread lock on the pony truck screw
And for the cab lights the original model the cab lights came on with F0 and wasn’t independent from the head lights which is why people bitched
The cab lights were on permanently on DC, which is what the complaints were about according to the email I got back from KR Models. I don't know about DCC options as I don't use it.
Not the first gt3 I’ve heard having derailing issues
That's right but I seem to have sorted that - for now!
I have had the same problems with points plastic frogs, solved by the same method as you.
Yes, and had to be done specifically for this loco and not for any of 100+ others I've got. It did the trick though!
Darn those Rivet counters! Lol!
No other manufacturers have issues do they, its don't like airing their issues on the net.
My GT3 from the first release, not experienced your problem but it has one niggle and that is it will not pull more than three coaches without wheel spin on any incline on our club layout, on the flat five or six coaches no bother. It has been suggested that I add some weight to the loco any ideas anyone.
Bill from down under
I'm still disappointed by this, it was, prototypical or not, a really interesting model to run. Sadly, this has put me off buying anything else from KR Models. Thanks for watching
Think I'll pass for this one, I'd rather have something from Hornby.
Hmmmm, stay tuned!
Unusual loco
and that's why I've given it more patience than I would normally for a brand new engine. Thanks for watching
Mine looked nice, but it ran like a pig, so it was sold. Wouldn't bother buying another. Zero tolerance built into it at all.
You are not alone ......