Thanks for the video! I have the exact same AT A6GF1 on my 1.6 GDI i30 (european model). I have a very frustrating problem with mine. I bought the car used at around 140k km (around 87k miles) and since this summer i have the car kicks like a horse when you put in D or R also it does this when switching up/down gears, its more pronounced in second and third gear. The main issue is the fault is intermittent, sometimes you can drive few hours without any problems, like nothing is wrong, other times it kicks from when you start the car. It also happens during a drive, it can run normally then you stop at a intersection and it starts kicking and shifting hard, and it goes the other way around too. At one point i got a P0713 temp sensor high DTC, so i replaced the solenoid and temp sensor harness with the updated model, also measured (electrically) and cleaned all the solenoids and found nothing unusual. I really dont know what to do with this car, the dealer wants to replace the transmission but it's around 1/2 of the cars value. The AT fluid is in good condition (replaced it around a year ago), good color, not burnt, no excessive contamination. Would you be kind to maybe give me some idea? I am willing to send some beer money your way for some help with this. Thanks!
I would think you need a new complete valve body or if you feel comfortable rebuilding yours yourself. I don't thing the transmission internals are bad because you said its works fine sometimes. Make sure valve body plug and harness look fine with no damage. I didn't get a chance to make a rebuild video yet but you can use this source to see if it's something you feel conformable doing yourself. atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
Hi. My 2012 Kia sportage AWD. Transmission guy said I need a new tranny and a new coupling assembly. I was wondering if I replace the coupling. Would the transmission run better. I had the fluid changed at my indie and it got worse
Hi, I have a Hyundai i40 1.7 2012 diesel, automatic transmission only had 4 litres of oil, now shuttering in evey gear except P and N. Would this be the clutches or solenoids?
Hi there. I've got my solenoids mixed up when they were removed. The colours are in the correct spot but can they be different. The look the same and the same length but can they be in the wrong position
Hello I have a2014 sonata 2.0T , it jumps out of first gear and then seems to be decent in the rest , what do you think the problem is and if it’s a solenoid witch one would be responsible
So my daughters 2011 Kia Sorento has always had some shift issues mainly when down shifting while passing or on a hill but couple of months ago shifting got really bad plus it seemed to lack power and had poor acceleration. I drove it and in automatic shifting was very erratic or would not shift, it shifts when you manually shift it but still no acceleration and lack of power. Checked compression, fuel pressure, catalytic converter (was changed about 2-3 yrs ago but checked it anyway), everything checked fine, symptoms pointed to bad torque converter, pulled transmission and put in new torque converter, also put in new wire harness because I had read where they caused problems particularly the temp sensor, put it back together and drove it and same problems. Was pretty frustrated, took it to dealer even though I'm not that confident in them, they checked same things I did and drove it and said transmission needed replacing, tech said fluid looked funny and had metal flakes, I said fluid was brand new, filter brand new and when I took it out it old fluid wasn't to bad . Took vehicle home found a used transmission with reasonably low miles and had a warranty, checked solenoids with a meter before I installed it, they were all within spec, transmission looked pretty clean inside, old fluid was a little dark but nothing out of ordinary. Put in new filter, installed transmission, drove it and same problem as before, granted it was a used transmission but I find it hard to believe a totally different transmission would have same exact symptoms. During all this there has never been any engine or transmission codes, even got a new scanner that is bidirectional and it showed the solenoids all passed plus like I said I actually physically checked them with a multi-meter, only thing that troubles me is when I activate the solenoids with the scanner I don't hear anything at least that I could tell, my experience with solenoids both at home and at my work is they always made some noise when activated ? I'm wondering if speed sensors are funky even though there is no codes or something internal in transmission or in the valve body, any ideas or seen or heard of similar problems ?
Couple of things come to mind. Let me ask this, if you manually shift the transmission it doesn’t have that much power correct? If so, it does lead me to believe it’s the engine and even though you replaced the catalytic converter it may of failed again causing these problems. Both transmissions doing the same thing is very unlikely unless there is a computer problem, bad wiring somewhere in the vehicle. If the engine is running normal when you put it manually in let’s say second gear and don’t shift it, it should have plenty of power regardless if the transmission shifts or not.
@@motorcarnut That's correct, very poor acceleration/power in automatic or manual. I have wondered about catalytic converter even though when I put a pressure gage on it it only showed about 1.5 psi, can't remember if I raised RPM's or not when I checked it. I also wonder about the O2 sensors even though I'm not getting any codes. One odd thing about the shifting, I can hit all gears manually and in automatic it will generally do 1-4 and maybe 5, if I go really slow but if you accelerate normally or fast it struggles to shift out of first or second but if I back off accelerator all the way for couple of seconds it will shift to next gear. When I first start it up say in morning or if it's sat for a while and give it some gas when I start it seems to have normal power until it shifts, after that if I stop or slow down and then go again, its slow. I'm an above average, pretty experienced DIYer/mechanic but this has got me frustrated. Anything other than checking back pressure or inlet-outlet temp on cat converter ? How about O2 sensors, actually on this one the upstream sensor is a wideband A/F sensor ? I appreciate your responding to my comments/questions.
@coreydinsdale7258 Yeah no problem. Your daughter’s car is a 2.4 or 3.5? I’m assuming the 2.4? Anyway, try taking out the upstream a/f sensor and give it another test drive to see if power came back. It will be a little loud but won’t hurt anything. If it’s the same, it’s not a clogged cat, if it is much better it’s the cat. Even if the a/f or 0 2 sensors were not connected it wouldn’t cause your problem you’re describing. Also would most likely set codes anyway. Also make sure the rubber intake pipe the goes to the throttle body is not ripped anywhere. Had a couple of vehicles that had similar problems because of that.
just read your latest reply and interestingly I tried that the other day because of another post I had seen and bingo, drove and shifted pretty normal. Like I said and you kind of confirmed, I found it hard to believe that a totally different transmission would have same exact symptoms so kept looking online and researching and numerous posts about these symptoms ended up being bad catalytic converter. Even though I checked the back pressure already I decided i better take a look at it again, first I looked at the inlet and outlet temperature and there was a huge difference (wish I had done that earlier), so then put the back pressure gage back on and it was still showing an acceptable reading but I figured maybe its not very accurate or flaky, so was going to do the vacuum test and thought I'll just pull the upstream sensor and drive it and it drove much better. Just wish I had dug a little deeper into that right at first, would have saved a lot of time, effort and money. Live and learn they say, I guess on the positive side she has a transmission with less miles and hopefully whatever shift problems there were went away. Thanks for your suggestions and help. @@motorcarnut
No problem! Now if you are going to keep that vehicle you have to figure out what killed the cat in the first place? Running too rich or lean, misfires, overall worn mechanically etc.They don't fail, they get murdered, Lol Good luck!
@@motorcarnuti got a valve body from picknpull and was waiting on your VB and solenoid testing video to come out in vain. My 2013 elantra GLS sedan displays the following Issue #1- Significant delayed of 3 sec when shifting from P to drive Upshift is 2100rpm under normal driving condition otherwise if try to accelerate hard at any gear, upon downshifting to get some torque, Issue#2 : it starts bucking / jerking indefinitely; the way to make it stop this is release the accelerator and depress gently then it acts normal again In fact, driving it without hard acceleration will make the operator think all is well. Issue #3: Jerk or hard downshifting from 5th to 4th gear. Issue #4: it whines Issue #5: no check engine light whatsoever Action: I changed the trans fluid yesterday (very dirty- black) & the magnetic end of the bold caught some metal debris but nothing crazy as i have seen worse from working transmissions i serviced before. Checking level Prior to changing it, i verified the fluid level was not low by verifying fluid trickeled down slowly at 140Degrees F or more; Draining Drained 3.7qts of old black fluid Filling Filled 3.4qts first Started it and waited till it reaches 140F op. temp Switch gears for 2sec on each gear R-N-D-N-R-D & repeated this twice more; Filled the remaining 0.3qt & verified no leak anywhere Reset & relearn Used a scantool special function to reset the adaptation values and relearn Test Drive: Drove 300miles since yesterday Feeling & impression Seemed better as far as the downshift from 5th to 4th which is somewhat less harsh or completely inexistent at times The delayed engagement of 3sec from P to D has not changed The bucking / jerking when trying to accelerate hard or drive it like a teenager is very present although the vehicle will drive as if there was no trans issues if the throttle is depressed gently & will shift through all gears and back down. The whining can still be heard No dtc can still be read Note: transmission oil sensor temp reaches a top of 185 Degrees F. I would love to test solenoids off the valve body i pulled from the junkyard to see if they are within range and compare with the solenoids currently installed in the Valve body of my transmission to know it is worth swapping them up. Or i wonder if any port could get clogged in these transmission leading to the whinning sound. Thanks to share any insight if you actually are able to read the book i just wrote lol 😂 Blessings
hello thank you for your videos hopefully you can help me I have a 2017 kia forte5 ex with what i believe is a A6GF1-2 transmission. I pulled the valve body and I'm trying to measure the solenoids resistance to test them but I can't find info as to what they are and what the read should be. What solenoids do what. The issues I had where with 4th and some times 6th both only if going up a mountain. the trans on the inside is completely new looking all the screens on the solenoids very clean. any advise or links to diagrams or thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you for your time
@@motorcarnut thank you very cool thank you. unfortunately it showed the manual transmission and mine is 2.0 with the automatic. thank you for your time I will try to use the link you gave to see if it will lead to other videos or pdf's that show the A6GF1-2 automatic
I these videos are so helpfull. Now, I have a 2012 Cerato Koup 2.0 Automatic transmission. I drove over speed bump and then my car wouldn't change gears. No noise, nothing. Just not shifting. Only took 1 litre ATF. Still no gears. Where do we start looking?
I have 2011 Koup, 6 speed auto, hard shift from 2 to 3rd gear. And 5 to 6th gear. I’ve replaced the fluid AND wire harness and temp sensor, nothing fixed. Could be a bad solenoid? If so, which one should I replace
I just wanted to like and comment on your video, because you have put some valuable info here. I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra, and I think it has the same 6 Speed Transmission. Couple days ago I parked my car and it suddenly had excessive slippage when I put it in reverse. I was thinking that maybe a solenoid was bad, and now, thanks to you, I know how to test them. I did try to find your video about taking the valve body apart, but I couldn't find it. I you did make that video I was hoping you could put a link to it here. I was a professional mechanic for 20 years. I was a test and repair smog mechanic licensed by the state of California, smog testing and repairing many vehicles, I rebuild about 20 automatic transmissions and put shift kits in most of them and put shift kits in several other transmissions that fixed their problems which are some of the highlights of my mechanical career. Thanks you so much.
Thank you for the comment I really appreciate it. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time to show taking the valve body apart to clean because I was under pressure to get the car to the customer. Being your a mechanic as well here is the valve body take a part photos. It’s not that bad to do. Good luck! Any other questions let me know.
Hello i have a 2014 Kia sportage 2.0 crdi automatic trans , before 2 years i run over a big curb which made my transmission pan cracked and let all the fluid out . After we replaced the pan and poured with fresh fluid it wont shift 4th gear and above but it reverse normally and 1st 2nd 3rd gears are normally whenever it hits 4th gear the car revs and wont move forward so we scan it and it shows P0734 and P0735 then i went to several mechanics and they said to replace the whole transmission so now its been 2 years without solving the problem and i use manual shifting till the 3rd gear ( about 40 km/h ) . Before 3 months i tested the solenoids , colored ones shows 5 and 6 ohms and the two black ones shows 11 ohms and i noticed that the solenoids harness there is a bit crack in it ( the black plastic ) and also a bit crack at the bottom of the valve body where it hit the curb . So does replacing the valve body and its harness a good idea . Any suggestions please help and thank you
See when the vehicle is involved in a crash, in person inspection is required. However, yes replacing the harness and valve body with solenoids should solve your problem with the fourth shift problem.
@@motorcarnut but brother since there is no part number in my valve body i checked on the inernet and it says 46210-3B200 and its solenoids have different color than mine even the long numbers written in the angles with QR codes are not the same as mine . Mine have the same color of solenoids of the one you fixing there is even 46210-3B011 and many more. How i figure out the right one for me i really appreciate your help
@MoMo-tq8uc where are you going to buy the valve body and solenoids from? Usually the whole thing is one package for your year make and model. I wouldn’t recommend buying everything separately. That can cause problems
Hello , when i install the new valve body does it need to be reprogrammed although hyundai / kia TCU are not integrated in their valve bodies. Thanks a lot @@motorcarnut
thank you very much for your efforts. I have a big problem with my kia sportage 2017 (A6mf1), when adjusting the solenoids I lost the exact measurement that they should have. Can you tell me what is the exact distance of the solenoids that we adjust?
Could you please help me out bro, my car is Elantra 2010 4 speed automatic and everything works great but I have a slip or rough shift only when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear I start to believe it’s a faulty solenoid I need your advice I’ll appreciate your help really ❤
It very well could be. But with me in front of the vehicle to test things it could be anything. If fluid level is correct you could just swap out the valve body for a reman and be good to go
@@motorcarnut I hope I was anywhere close but I’m far away in the Middle East man. Do you mean I should swipe the solenoid that’s faulty with another one and could I test it by the voltmeter device or directly with 12 volt wire.
Very informative thank you! I don't know if you will respond to this but I have a thought provoking question. What if the vehicle is showing no codes, but after resetting the ECU, the vehicle experiences hard shifts between gears and seems like it is in over drive. After resetting the ECU again this issue goes away, but comes back any time the battery is disconnected and has a chance of happening again. Could this be a solenoid issue or a transmission control module issue? Is there a way to further test this? The car shifts perfect otherwise and will go without this problem for months. I mentioned this to my kia dealer and they did some "test" and said the vehicle is fine without codes and it could be a possible "TCM" issue and the computer has to relearn, but this issue is intermittent. Last time it occurred it was raining all week. I plan on testing the solenoids per your last video and don't know if this vehicle has ever had the transmission serviced.
Hello i am a noob in relation with transmision...i am looking for a Kia Sportage with automatic transmision ...my question : this transmission is automatic with torque converter? Does Kia Sportage transmision for the III generation 2010-2016 use automatic transmision with torque converter ?
I have a 2014 sportage 2.0t w/180k miles. I changed ATF every 60k. But recently, when warmed up it shutters and hangs on deceleration. If you put it in park then back into drive at a light or stopsign it stops doing it for awhile. Solenoid cleaning or something more serious ya think?
@@motorcarnut thanks for the response, I have a p0753 code going to have to test the solenoids tomorrow... Im looking for the follow up to this video where you disassemble the valve body but i cant seem to find it.? BTW thanks for the awesome content *thumbs up* it has been reallu helpful!
My car has p0722 for a speed sensor but I replaced it and I still having issues with the shifting vehicle revs up high and does not go past first gear really don’t know what’s going on. What do you recommend?
I pulled apart an A6LF3 transmission from a Santa Fe, 4/8 solenoids weren't throwing on a 9v battery but they would on a 12v battery, also the resistance was roughly 1ohm out (measured at 4ohm) would there be any way to fix these? Or should they be replaced? When replacing have you used solenoids from Aliexpress? The genuine parts are very expensive where I live. Thank you 😊
Hello, so in my case, when the oil is cold or has not been driven yet. It shifts fine. But as soon as the oil is hot. Its shifts funny, hard shift, slipping. Sometimes even at slowing down the transmission wont downshift. Doing it manually is if also. What do you think the problem is? And yes the transmission has been changed after more than 100k but i changed it 3 times now after I experienced the problem but it is still doing the same thing
Could be failing pump, when fluid is cold it’s thicker when it warms up it gets thinner and causes the problems you’re experiencing. Also you can try cleaning and testing the solenoids like in the video, can’t hurt.
@@motorcarnutI saw another video that you can’t change the filter without separating the transmission and engine. So if it’s true. Do you recommend doing it? Sorry if its too long 😅
Hello, I have an Elantra 2015 1.8L, in my case when the transmision is cold, I put it in drive and it needs a couple of seconds to engage 1st gear and with a little ckick. No issues while driving it, shifts would go smoth from 1st to 6th, up & down with no slipping not issues at all. Then I turn the engine off, after five minutes transmission will not engage 1st gear niether 2nd using manual mode, so I need to let the tramnsmisson to cold down for at least 3 hours, then I would be able to run the car again. Already clean the valves, oil is new, no improvements. Do you think is a mechanical issue, or some valve is failing when hot? thanks in advance for looking at it
Sounds like a solenoid problem. You cleaned them but did you test them and then check for resistance before and after powering them up? Valve body may be dirty as well and would have to be taken apart and cleaned. Unfortunately I didn’t make a video on that one but if you’re handy I can send the literature on it.
@@motorcarnut Thanks for your answer, yes I test them all, resistance and functional they are ok, but I think as you said valve body could be dirty, please share manual or any literaure that can help me and more important to do not make mistakes, thanks!!
@CloseKnowledge here, just take your time there are a lot of pieces that cannot get mixed up. Look though it first to see it you can do it. Good luck atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
2012 kia sedona with a6lf2 transmission jerking in low gear on take off, and now it jerks getting put in reverse and drive but not in manual setting. It only happens on take-off, and sometimes, when the car sits idling every blue moon on particularly hot days, the radiator will start bubbling and, when shutting off the van, waiting, starting back up then driving the temperture stablizes again. No check engine light, had one for oil pressure sensor and took apart the top of the engine, and replaced it myself. Ran good the rest of the year. This was last year in May. I thought it might need a transmission fluid change and filter, but I've also got a code for evap purge valve and O2 sensor. I replaced the 02 sensor both upstream and downstream and the van ran better as far as gas milage. The evap valve I didn't replace because it was discovered that the gas cap was missing and the light went off. Do you think that could cause the jerking when taking off? It seems to do it when going into 2nd gear and it was subtle at first but now the van is begininng to shake. No grinding, whirring or anything like that and I think it could also be a trans solenoid, a MAF sensor, injectors or spark plugs and wires. Van is 150k and I've aslo replaced the wheel bearing and driver side CV axle the same time in May last year by myself and it ran flawlessly up to this point. I'm hoping its not a torque converter either because they're hard to source for this van. Thanks in advance.
The engine has to run perfect first because it will effect the transmission. Probably the valve bode is dirty and needs to be rebuilt along with the solenoids IMO
@@motorcarnut It has six fat same exact solenoids and one lower that is larger. I think ohms on that were 5.5.. I'm throwing a p0765 and no others. Hoping for the solenoid to be the culprit. I have smelled a torque converter fail in the past. Now a shift lock out and code.. Ill know soon..
My KIA OPTIMA 2012 has been having gear slippage for 3yrs now & acting erratic when changing. I changed gear oil severally even with synthetic gear oil, yet no change. I then had engine overheating issues last month Dec 2023 & it turned out my cooling fan was not working. After fixing the cooling fan, my mechanic suggested that we remove the THERMOSTAT since our climate here in Nigeria is quite hot. Guys, we removed the THERMOSTAT & to my greatest SURPRISE, barely a week later I noticed the gear slippage had stopped! I went back to my mechanic who said apparently, the gear was overheating all along & that's why it was acting up! But removing the THERMOSTAT must have helped to further reduce the engine & gear temperatures! So if you're having similar challenge with the transmission of your car, you might try removing the THERMOSTAT & watc the performance of the car for a while! My KIA OPTIMA 2012 is fine now & shifting perfectly! I'm so happy because I was already planning on getting a brand new transmission this year.
This video is great, the author is a good guy. These transmissions went until 2020 I believe. Thanks
Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I have the exact same AT A6GF1 on my 1.6 GDI i30 (european model). I have a very frustrating problem with mine. I bought the car used at around 140k km (around 87k miles) and since this summer i have the car kicks like a horse when you put in D or R also it does this when switching up/down gears, its more pronounced in second and third gear. The main issue is the fault is intermittent, sometimes you can drive few hours without any problems, like nothing is wrong, other times it kicks from when you start the car. It also happens during a drive, it can run normally then you stop at a intersection and it starts kicking and shifting hard, and it goes the other way around too. At one point i got a P0713 temp sensor high DTC, so i replaced the solenoid and temp sensor harness with the updated model, also measured (electrically) and cleaned all the solenoids and found nothing unusual. I really dont know what to do with this car, the dealer wants to replace the transmission but it's around 1/2 of the cars value. The AT fluid is in good condition (replaced it around a year ago), good color, not burnt, no excessive contamination. Would you be kind to maybe give me some idea? I am willing to send some beer money your way for some help with this. Thanks!
I would think you need a new complete valve body or if you feel comfortable rebuilding yours yourself.
I don't thing the transmission internals are bad because you said its works fine sometimes. Make sure valve body plug and harness look fine with no damage. I didn't get a chance to make a rebuild video yet but you can use this source to see if it's something you feel conformable doing yourself.
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
When I test the bottom solenoid, it won't "click" with a good 9v battery but, will with a 12v.
Probably because the amperage in the 9volt battery isn't sufficient.
@@motorcarnut I was thinking that might be it. Also, with the key on I get 3.36 volts on ALL the solenoid terminals.
Reference voltage should be at least .05 volts. You may have a wiring or ground problem.
Which solenoids are responsible for which speed tranmision?
This should help:
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
What about a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe? Mines slips and jerks when i come to a stop
Same transmission type
Hi. My 2012 Kia sportage AWD. Transmission guy said I need a new tranny and a new coupling assembly. I was wondering if I replace the coupling. Would the transmission run better. I had the fluid changed at my indie and it got worse
I don't think so
Hi, I have a Hyundai i40 1.7 2012 diesel, automatic transmission only had 4 litres of oil, now shuttering in evey gear except
P and N. Would this be the clutches or solenoids?
If it were low on transmission fluid I’d say it’s more the clutches than the solenoids
Hi there. I've got my solenoids mixed up when they were removed. The colours are in the correct spot but can they be different.
The look the same and the same length but can they be in the wrong position
No, just check part numbers same color same part number then it doesn’t matter
how to replace the filter?
You have to drop the oil pan, I didn't make a video on that yet but not hard to do.
Hello I have a2014 sonata 2.0T , it jumps out of first gear and then seems to be decent in the rest , what do you think the problem is and if it’s a solenoid witch one would be responsible
Can’t really give an answer because I would have to see in person so I’d get a local transmission company to give an opinion
So my daughters 2011 Kia Sorento has always had some shift issues mainly when down shifting while passing or on a hill but couple of months ago shifting got really bad plus it seemed to lack power and had poor acceleration. I drove it and in automatic shifting was very erratic or would not shift, it shifts when you manually shift it but still no acceleration and lack of power. Checked compression, fuel pressure, catalytic converter (was changed about 2-3 yrs ago but checked it anyway), everything checked fine, symptoms pointed to bad torque converter, pulled transmission and put in new torque converter, also put in new wire harness because I had read where they caused problems particularly the temp sensor, put it back together and drove it and same problems. Was pretty frustrated, took it to dealer even though I'm not that confident in them, they checked same things I did and drove it and said transmission needed replacing, tech said fluid looked funny and had metal flakes, I said fluid was brand new, filter brand new and when I took it out it old fluid wasn't to bad . Took vehicle home found a used transmission with reasonably low miles and had a warranty, checked solenoids with a meter before I installed it, they were all within spec, transmission looked pretty clean inside, old fluid was a little dark but nothing out of ordinary. Put in new filter, installed transmission, drove it and same problem as before, granted it was a used transmission but I find it hard to believe a totally different transmission would have same exact symptoms. During all this there has never been any engine or transmission codes, even got a new scanner that is bidirectional and it showed the solenoids all passed plus like I said I actually physically checked them with a multi-meter, only thing that troubles me is when I activate the solenoids with the scanner I don't hear anything at least that I could tell, my experience with solenoids both at home and at my work is they always made some noise when activated ? I'm wondering if speed sensors are funky even though there is no codes or something internal in transmission or in the valve body, any ideas or seen or heard of similar problems ?
Couple of things come to mind. Let me ask this, if you manually shift the transmission it doesn’t have that much power correct? If so, it does lead me to believe it’s the engine and even though you replaced the catalytic converter it may of failed again causing these problems. Both transmissions doing the same thing is very unlikely unless there is a computer problem, bad wiring somewhere in the vehicle. If the engine is running normal when you put it manually in let’s say second gear and don’t shift it, it should have plenty of power regardless if the transmission shifts or not.
@@motorcarnut That's correct, very poor acceleration/power in automatic or manual. I have wondered about catalytic converter even though when I put a pressure gage on it it only showed about 1.5 psi, can't remember if I raised RPM's or not when I checked it. I also wonder about the O2 sensors even though I'm not getting any codes. One odd thing about the shifting, I can hit all gears manually and in automatic it will generally do 1-4 and maybe 5, if I go really slow but if you accelerate normally or fast it struggles to shift out of first or second but if I back off accelerator all the way for couple of seconds it will shift to next gear. When I first start it up say in morning or if it's sat for a while and give it some gas when I start it seems to have normal power until it shifts, after that if I stop or slow down and then go again, its slow. I'm an above average, pretty experienced DIYer/mechanic but this has got me frustrated. Anything other than checking back pressure or inlet-outlet temp on cat converter ? How about O2 sensors, actually on this one the upstream sensor is a wideband A/F sensor ? I appreciate your responding to my comments/questions.
@coreydinsdale7258 Yeah no problem. Your daughter’s car is a 2.4 or 3.5? I’m assuming the 2.4? Anyway, try taking out the upstream a/f sensor and give it another test drive to see if power came back. It will be a little loud but won’t hurt anything. If it’s the same, it’s not a clogged cat, if it is much better it’s the cat. Even if the a/f or 0 2 sensors were not connected it wouldn’t cause your problem you’re describing. Also would most likely set codes anyway. Also make sure the rubber intake pipe the goes to the throttle body is not ripped anywhere. Had a couple of vehicles that had similar problems because of that.
just read your latest reply and interestingly I tried that the other day because of another post I had seen and bingo, drove and shifted pretty normal. Like I said and you kind of confirmed, I found it hard to believe that a totally different transmission would have same exact symptoms so kept looking online and researching and numerous posts about these symptoms ended up being bad catalytic converter. Even though I checked the back pressure already I decided i better take a look at it again, first I looked at the inlet and outlet temperature and there was a huge difference (wish I had done that earlier), so then put the back pressure gage back on and it was still showing an acceptable reading but I figured maybe its not very accurate or flaky, so was going to do the vacuum test and thought I'll just pull the upstream sensor and drive it and it drove much better. Just wish I had dug a little deeper into that right at first, would have saved a lot of time, effort and money. Live and learn they say, I guess on the positive side she has a transmission with less miles and hopefully whatever shift problems there were went away. Thanks for your suggestions and help. @@motorcarnut
No problem! Now if you are going to keep that vehicle you have to figure out what killed the cat in the first place? Running too rich or lean, misfires, overall worn mechanically etc.They don't fail, they get murdered, Lol Good luck!
Did you end up making that video of taking the valve body apart even more ?
No, I was but customer needed vehicle very badly so waiting for another one to do it on.
@@motorcarnuti got a valve body from picknpull and was waiting on your VB and solenoid testing video to come out in vain. My 2013 elantra GLS sedan displays the following
Issue #1- Significant delayed of 3 sec when shifting from P to drive
Upshift is 2100rpm under normal driving condition otherwise if try to accelerate hard at any gear, upon downshifting to get some torque,
Issue#2 : it starts bucking / jerking indefinitely; the way to make it stop this is release the accelerator and depress gently then it acts normal again
In fact, driving it without hard acceleration will make the operator think all is well.
Issue #3:
Jerk or hard downshifting from 5th to 4th gear.
Issue #4: it whines
Issue #5: no check engine light whatsoever
Action:
I changed the trans fluid yesterday (very dirty- black) & the magnetic end of the bold caught some metal debris but nothing crazy as i have seen worse from working transmissions i serviced before.
Checking level
Prior to changing it, i verified the fluid level was not low by verifying fluid trickeled down slowly at 140Degrees F or more;
Draining
Drained 3.7qts of old black fluid
Filling
Filled 3.4qts first
Started it and waited till it reaches 140F op.
temp
Switch gears for 2sec on each gear R-N-D-N-R-D & repeated this twice more;
Filled the remaining 0.3qt & verified no leak anywhere
Reset & relearn
Used a scantool special function to reset the adaptation values and relearn
Test Drive:
Drove 300miles since yesterday
Feeling & impression
Seemed better as far as the downshift from 5th to 4th which is somewhat less harsh or completely inexistent at times
The delayed engagement of 3sec from P to D has not changed
The bucking / jerking when trying to accelerate hard or drive it like a teenager is very present although the vehicle will drive as if there was no trans issues if the throttle is depressed gently & will shift through all gears and back down.
The whining can still be heard
No dtc can still be read
Note: transmission oil sensor temp reaches a top of 185 Degrees F.
I would love to test solenoids off the valve body i pulled from the junkyard to see if they are within range and compare with the solenoids currently installed in the Valve body of my transmission to know it is worth swapping them up.
Or i wonder if any port could get clogged in these transmission leading to the whinning sound.
Thanks to share any insight if you actually are able to read the book i just wrote lol 😂
Blessings
hello thank you for your videos hopefully you can help me I have a 2017 kia forte5 ex with what i believe is a A6GF1-2 transmission. I pulled the valve body and I'm trying to measure the solenoids resistance to test them but I can't find info as to what they are and what the read should be. What solenoids do what. The issues I had where with 4th and some times 6th both only if going up a mountain. the trans on the inside is completely new looking all the screens on the solenoids very clean. any advise or links to diagrams or thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you for your time
Appreciate the comment and here is some information:
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
@@motorcarnut thank you very cool thank you. unfortunately it showed the manual transmission and mine is 2.0 with the automatic. thank you for your time I will try to use the link you gave to see if it will lead to other videos or pdf's that show the A6GF1-2 automatic
No, that is the automatic transmission?
I these videos are so helpfull. Now, I have a 2012 Cerato Koup 2.0 Automatic transmission. I drove over speed bump and then my car wouldn't change gears. No noise, nothing. Just not shifting. Only took 1 litre ATF. Still no gears. Where do we start looking?
My guess would be a loose or corroded connection that controls the transmission. Because it happened right after hitting a bump.
I have 2011 Koup, 6 speed auto, hard shift from 2 to 3rd gear. And 5 to 6th gear. I’ve replaced the fluid AND wire harness and temp sensor, nothing fixed. Could be a bad solenoid? If so, which one should I replace
I would replace the valve body with all solenoids, you can find them on ebay for a good price and with waranty
I just wanted to like and comment on your video, because you have put some valuable info here. I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra, and I think it has the same 6 Speed Transmission. Couple days ago I parked my car and it suddenly had excessive slippage when I put it in reverse. I was thinking that maybe a solenoid was bad, and now, thanks to you, I know how to test them. I did try to find your video about taking the valve body apart, but I couldn't find it. I you did make that video I was hoping you could put a link to it here. I was a professional mechanic for 20 years. I was a test and repair smog mechanic licensed by the state of California, smog testing and repairing many vehicles, I rebuild about 20 automatic transmissions and put shift kits in most of them and put shift kits in several other transmissions that fixed their problems which are some of the highlights of my mechanical career. Thanks you so much.
Thank you for the comment I really appreciate it. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time to show taking the valve body apart to clean because I was under pressure to get the car to the customer. Being your a mechanic as well here is the valve body take a part photos. It’s not that bad to do. Good luck! Any other questions let me know.
Link:
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
What is the torque spec for the bolts when reinstalling the valve body. Thanks.
90 inch pounds
Hello i have a 2014 Kia sportage 2.0 crdi automatic trans , before 2 years i run over a big curb which made my transmission pan cracked and let all the fluid out . After we replaced the pan and poured with fresh fluid it wont shift 4th gear and above but it reverse normally and 1st 2nd 3rd gears are normally whenever it hits 4th gear the car revs and wont move forward so we scan it and it shows P0734 and P0735 then i went to several mechanics and they said to replace the whole transmission so now its been 2 years without solving the problem and i use manual shifting till the 3rd gear ( about 40 km/h ) . Before 3 months i tested the solenoids , colored ones shows 5 and 6 ohms and the two black ones shows 11 ohms and i noticed that the solenoids harness there is a bit crack in it ( the black plastic ) and also a bit crack at the bottom of the valve body where it hit the curb . So does replacing the valve body and its harness a good idea . Any suggestions please help and thank you
See when the vehicle is involved in a crash, in person inspection is required. However, yes replacing the harness and valve body with solenoids should solve your problem with the fourth shift problem.
@@motorcarnut but brother since there is no part number in my valve body i checked on the inernet and it says 46210-3B200 and its solenoids have different color than mine even the long numbers written in the angles with QR codes are not the same as mine . Mine have the same color of solenoids of the one you fixing there is even 46210-3B011 and many more. How i figure out the right one for me i really appreciate your help
@MoMo-tq8uc where are you going to buy the valve body and solenoids from? Usually the whole thing is one package for your year make and model. I wouldn’t recommend buying everything separately. That can cause problems
Hello , when i install the new valve body does it need to be reprogrammed although hyundai / kia TCU are not integrated in their valve bodies. Thanks a lot @@motorcarnut
@MoMo-tq8uc No, but it will go through a relearn process
thank you very much for your efforts. I have a big problem with my kia sportage 2017 (A6mf1), when adjusting the solenoids I lost the exact measurement that they should have. Can you tell me what is the exact distance of the solenoids that we adjust?
Thank you!This should help.
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
Where can I get a replacement Solenoid?
eBay is a good start
Do you recommend a fluid change after X number of years if the vehicle has low miles ??
Definitely, every 4 years or 60,000 miles
I have code p0753 shift solenoid A electrical on my 2012 kia optima it only drives in 4th gear, any advice on what to do?
You could follow video and try testing and cleaning them first before either checking wiring or replacing the solenoids.
@@motorcarnut ok thank you!
Could you please help me out bro, my car is Elantra 2010 4 speed automatic and everything works great but I have a slip or rough shift only when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear I start to believe it’s a faulty solenoid I need your advice I’ll appreciate your help really ❤
It very well could be. But with me in front of the vehicle to test things it could be anything. If fluid level is correct you could just swap out the valve body for a reman and be good to go
@@motorcarnut I hope I was anywhere close but I’m far away in the Middle East man. Do you mean I should swipe the solenoid that’s faulty with another one and could I test it by the voltmeter device or directly with 12 volt wire.
Do a swap valve bode with all solenoids.
Very informative thank you! I don't know if you will respond to this but I have a thought provoking question. What if the vehicle is showing no codes, but after resetting the ECU, the vehicle experiences hard shifts between gears and seems like it is in over drive. After resetting the ECU again this issue goes away, but comes back any time the battery is disconnected and has a chance of happening again. Could this be a solenoid issue or a transmission control module issue? Is there a way to further test this? The car shifts perfect otherwise and will go without this problem for months. I mentioned this to my kia dealer and they did some "test" and said the vehicle is fine without codes and it could be a possible "TCM" issue and the computer has to relearn, but this issue is intermittent. Last time it occurred it was raining all week. I plan on testing the solenoids per your last video and don't know if this vehicle has ever had the transmission serviced.
Car will have to relearn after interruption of power supply. Can be a faulty TCM or bad ground somewhere in the system.
Hello i am a noob in relation with transmision...i am looking for a Kia Sportage with automatic transmision ...my question : this transmission is automatic with torque converter?
Does Kia Sportage transmision for the III generation 2010-2016 use automatic transmision with torque converter ?
Yes
I have a 2014 sportage 2.0t w/180k miles. I changed ATF every 60k. But recently, when warmed up it shutters and hangs on deceleration. If you put it in park then back into drive at a light or stopsign it stops doing it for awhile. Solenoid cleaning or something more serious ya think?
Shuttering is slipping. Try this stuff first can’t hurt and has worked for me on vehicles people were strapped for cash.
a.co/d/2WtEHn6
I have a A6GF1 and the solenoid is showing 6 ohms on 6 of them and 11ohms on 2 of the...are they still good?
Just compare them to the ones in the video, but they seem fine
@@motorcarnut thanks for the response, I have a p0753 code going to have to test the solenoids tomorrow...
Im looking for the follow up to this video where you disassemble the valve body but i cant seem to find it.?
BTW thanks for the awesome content *thumbs up* it has been reallu helpful!
@ramiromaney3499 Thank you, really appreciated! I don’t have a tear down as that car was a rush to fix and didn’t have the time. Sorry about that
@@motorcarnutaha, thats why I couldn't find it lol...
Thanks for the heads up on that 👍
No problem Good luck
My car has p0722 for a speed sensor but I replaced it and I still having issues with the shifting vehicle revs up high and does not go past first gear really don’t know what’s going on. What do you recommend?
Did you check the wiring to that sensor?
J aimerais savoir pourquoi les électrovannes se verrouille lors de la réparation de cette transmission
What did you replace on the transmission?
I pulled apart an A6LF3 transmission from a Santa Fe, 4/8 solenoids weren't throwing on a 9v battery but they would on a 12v battery, also the resistance was roughly 1ohm out (measured at 4ohm) would there be any way to fix these? Or should they be replaced? When replacing have you used solenoids from Aliexpress? The genuine parts are very expensive where I live. Thank you 😊
I would replace them. eBay has them remanufactured OEM for good prices.
Hello, so in my case, when the oil is cold or has not been driven yet. It shifts fine. But as soon as the oil is hot. Its shifts funny, hard shift, slipping. Sometimes even at slowing down the transmission wont downshift. Doing it manually is if also. What do you think the problem is?
And yes the transmission has been changed after more than 100k but i changed it 3 times now after I experienced the problem but it is still doing the same thing
Could be failing pump, when fluid is cold it’s thicker when it warms up it gets thinner and causes the problems you’re experiencing. Also you can try cleaning and testing the solenoids like in the video, can’t hurt.
@@motorcarnutI saw another video that you can’t change the filter without separating the transmission and engine. So if it’s true. Do you recommend doing it?
Sorry if its too long 😅
Great vedio thanks for tutoring us
No problem! Thanks for the reply!
Hello, I have an Elantra 2015 1.8L, in my case when the transmision is cold, I put it in drive and it needs a couple of seconds to engage 1st gear and with a little ckick. No issues while driving it, shifts would go smoth from 1st to 6th, up & down with no slipping not issues at all. Then I turn the engine off, after five minutes transmission will not engage 1st gear niether 2nd using manual mode, so I need to let the tramnsmisson to cold down for at least 3 hours, then I would be able to run the car again. Already clean the valves, oil is new, no improvements. Do you think is a mechanical issue, or some valve is failing when hot? thanks in advance for looking at it
Sounds like a solenoid problem. You cleaned them but did you test them and then check for resistance before and after powering them up? Valve body may be dirty as well and would have to be taken apart and cleaned. Unfortunately I didn’t make a video on that one but if you’re handy I can send the literature on it.
@@motorcarnut Thanks for your answer, yes I test them all, resistance and functional they are ok, but I think as you said valve body could be dirty, please share manual or any literaure that can help me and more important to do not make mistakes, thanks!!
@CloseKnowledge here, just take your time there are a lot of pieces that cannot get mixed up. Look though it first to see it you can do it. Good luck
atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import%2Fa6mf1_rebuild.pdf
Pourquoi lors de la rétrogradation elle freine du 2 à 1
Aidez moi svp
What did you replace?
you did not show how to put it back in the transmission y not even at whay angle you got it out. if you have a video of that send me a link please
Just search my channel under Hyundai. Have many videos there. Thank you!
thank you
You're welcome!
You are the best💙
Lol, thank you!
"I'm thinking of buying a car with this type of transmission. Is it really reliable, or does it frequently have issues?"
It’s very reliable. Just maintain it as with any transmission and you’ll be fine.
2012 kia sedona with a6lf2 transmission jerking in low gear on take off, and now it jerks getting put in reverse and drive but not in manual setting. It only happens on take-off, and sometimes, when the car sits idling every blue moon on particularly hot days, the radiator will start bubbling and, when shutting off the van, waiting, starting back up then driving the temperture stablizes again. No check engine light, had one for oil pressure sensor and took apart the top of the engine, and replaced it myself. Ran good the rest of the year. This was last year in May. I thought it might need a transmission fluid change and filter, but I've also got a code for evap purge valve and O2 sensor. I replaced the 02 sensor both upstream and downstream and the van ran better as far as gas milage. The evap valve I didn't replace because it was discovered that the gas cap was missing and the light went off. Do you think that could cause the jerking when taking off? It seems to do it when going into 2nd gear and it was subtle at first but now the van is begininng to shake. No grinding, whirring or anything like that and I think it could also be a trans solenoid, a MAF sensor, injectors or spark plugs and wires. Van is 150k and I've aslo replaced the wheel bearing and driver side CV axle the same time in May last year by myself and it ran flawlessly up to this point. I'm hoping its not a torque converter either because they're hard to source for this van.
Thanks in advance.
The engine has to run perfect first because it will effect the transmission. Probably the valve bode is dirty and needs to be rebuilt along with the solenoids IMO
Thanks
No problem!
A6GF1?
Correct
@@motorcarnutexcellent video bro. Im at a junkyard trying to pull my 2013 elwntra 1.8l valve body
@DFWAuto_Hack thank you! Good luck!
Fantastic job
Thank you for the comment!
why are they different colors?
Different solenoid types
Sedona 2006-2010 is different
Really? In what way?
@@motorcarnut It has six fat same exact solenoids and one lower that is larger. I think ohms on that were 5.5.. I'm throwing a p0765 and no others. Hoping for the solenoid to be the culprit. I have smelled a torque converter fail in the past. Now a shift lock out and code.. Ill know soon..
@@motorcarnut Also, thank you! You're videos are fantastic and so rare in the realm of car repair.
My KIA OPTIMA 2012 has been having gear slippage for 3yrs now & acting erratic when changing. I changed gear oil severally even with synthetic gear oil, yet no change.
I then had engine overheating issues last month Dec 2023 & it turned out my cooling fan was not working.
After fixing the cooling fan, my mechanic suggested that we remove the THERMOSTAT since our climate here in Nigeria is quite hot.
Guys, we removed the THERMOSTAT & to my greatest SURPRISE, barely a week later I noticed the gear slippage had stopped!
I went back to my mechanic who said apparently, the gear was overheating all along & that's why it was acting up! But removing the THERMOSTAT must have helped to further reduce the engine & gear temperatures!
So if you're having similar challenge with the transmission of your car, you might try removing the THERMOSTAT & watc the performance of the car for a while!
My KIA OPTIMA 2012 is fine now & shifting perfectly!
I'm so happy because I was already planning on getting a brand new transmission this year.
.
I had similar problems with my transmission. Same year optima sx. I CHANGED that thermostat to a new one and it fixed the problem