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Ich habe eine Idee zum Drucken!!!! Und zwar ein Volume Spacer den man in eine Federgabel einsetzt. Ich würd gerne jeweils 3stk von von jeder Temperatur bei dir Kaufen um dich auch etwas zu unterstützen, selbst wenn ich keinen 3D Drucker besitze oder gerade deswegen =) die Zylinder sollten 30mm im Durchmesser und eine höhe auch von 30mm haben. Infill so wie in den Video gezeigt/ verwendet. Ach und in der mitt eventuell ein 5mm Loch hindurch Bitte Antworte mir auf den Kommentar wenn Du Interesse hast, dann schreib ich Dir eine Mail nochmal =)
Hi! Maybe you can test and review Facilan C8 and HT? Quite interesting materials out there :D I am glad that I found your channel, a lot of interesting stuff.
@@henrymach I am also wondering what the thermal properties are. Of course for lower temperatures (below 100c). Then you could incapsulate the soft foam part into harder parts depending on the print temperatures.
That is BRILLIANT! I was looking for some way of doing a 3D print with one end harder (for mounting) and the other softer (for application.) Now I can simply print each end at different temperatures.
Hello Stefan, It is very interesting. TPU material is hyperelastic material which is non-compressible when it is in this bulk form. This property is obviously lost when add air bubbles inside. It could be very interesting to use tour universal tensile machine to investigate this ! If one thinks in term of small strains (and not finite strains) it means that it is not only the shore value (and thus the apparent modulus) but also the value of the "Poisson coefficient" even if this is improper in finite strains. So the applications could vary as incompressibility is often and advantage or a drawback. I think it could be nice to investigate ! I hope I will find some time to investigate tensile test on this ! Best regards,
It's a shame Mitutoyo only let you borrow those hardness testers. :P Although, I can understand why- guessing just one of those probably cost more than most of your printers. haha
I was curious about their prices and there's some for 400€ so less expensive than expected but tbh there's also some over 800, and I have no idea what the difference is. Edit one of the ones used in the video is 487€ and the other is 838
@@CNCKitchen While I'm not sure these, or any other tools are really made for it, I'd be SUPER interested in creep testing on various materials. It's one property that has actually caused me problems with functional prints.
Can you "post expand" the fillament? Eg: use a heat gun or soldering iron or oven to expand the TPU only in spot locations after the object has been printed?
I doubt it because the plastic melts at a lower temp than the foaming, so to prevent the structure of the part from being ruined you would need to enclose it but then there'd be nowhere for the gasses caused by foaming to go.
It would have been very interesting to see the shore hardness of the infill samples but printed with the TPU at its maximum foaming. It would have let us see how low the varioshore TPU can go.
Stefan, another amazing review. How do you print multiple models at different temperatures? I understand how to change temperatures at height/layer. Do you pause at height/layer, manually adjust the nozzle temp, then resume? Or is this a custom script? I apologize if this has been asked and answered already.
I wonder how the flexibility degrades the life of something that flexes a lot. Bend a 3mm plate 100 times and analyze the physical properties. Does this material absorb moisture or does it need to be dried. I could see making ink stamps with such material.
Just ordered some with a black friday offer. Once I designed and printed an edge protection with ninjaflex and variable infill pattern to adjust the hardess ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749295 hard base and soft buffer at the tip). I will try it again with varioshore. An other project of mine was a vibration damper. Same concept... vibation damping capabilities would also interesting to investigate.... I have to say you are producing the best 3D printing videos on youtube. Always hard facts, I love them.
Hello Stefan. First, thank you for this test/tutorial. Is very useful! :) I want to please you if can you explain me how did you change Extruder multiplier in the same print on Prusa MK3?
Hello Stefan, i have just seen your video about the varioshore TPU from colorfabb. do you think this could be the right filament to print grips for sim racing steering wheels?
Are you going to upgrade to the new mk3s+? Also I have been investing my time into strain wave gear boxes. I think that this material would be quite interesting for the flex spline as it it usually the hardest part to get right.
hello, i am from latvia and i would like to know where you can buy diabase x60 in europe. I recently tried to look for it but i could only find shops shipping it to the usa. i would also rather buy just a small sample not an entire spool because i dont have any very specialized hardware like a flexion extruder just a dual gear direct drive with filament guiding right after the gears (bondtech clone) and a motherboard that supports linear advance.
You can get a apparently equivalent filament from Germany, however I have not tested it yet. I would not recommend to try to print 60A flexible filament if you do not have a dedicated extruder for that www.bavaria-filaments.com/product-page/bavaflex-tpu-extra-soft-schwarz
Red Storm Rising is great, but anyone who claims to have read a book with their ears is deluding themselves. I know Audible is a huge sponsor on youtube but I can't help it. Podcasts and lectures are great listening. Anything worth reading is not. Be a proud book snob.
I've had reasonably good success making two-part designs with a PLA base, a filament change to TPU, and finishing with the TPU. I've also used PETG - in that case, I had to change filament at a point in the model where I could maximize the contact between PETG layer and TPU layers above it. While changing the filament, the temperature has to be lowered quickly for the TPU or else it is very stringy. Some custom gcode similar to that used in temperature towers was sufficient but I still had to wait before inserting the TPU so that the printer didn't resume printing until the nozzle temperature was lower. Not an ideal way to go, but the parts worked OK.
I’ve been using Varioshore TPU for a bunch of projects. It’s an amazing material, love the soft touch feel. Stringing / oozing is definitely a pain compared to other flexible filaments.
I bought some of this about a month ago and havent gotten to use it because I wasnt ready to do a bunch of testing. Thanks for doing all the work for us and recording the whole process!!! Hahaha
Do you have any experiences using resin 3D printers and flexible resins to print tyres? I have seen some good looking samples, but have not yet printed any. Still looking for good info on flexible resins. I have had good experiences on using clear resin for small clear parts ie. headlight lenses etc.
@@blubb7711 Thank you for quick reply. I have read the same, but I have found the flexible resins hard to get and expensive. It does not help to live in one of northest and maybe the worst shithole countrys in europe. Maybe I have to buy 1kg of flex resin for christmas and try it. I found some with 55A shore hardness, but I can't find any info about the surface friction. Edit: I have to add that I do love the details my new DLP 3D priter makes. FDM can not compete with it. It could easily print text to the tyre wall etc. I have made some nice rims, but have to wait for summer, or at least the pandemic to ease up to go to the track and test how will they last. The resin prints seem to be some what more fragile than the PETG and PLA I usually use to print with.
@@blubb7711 Easy solution is to print a mold and then cast your tires. You can even add locking features to the hub and cast with the hub in place for stronger adhesion.
Mitutoyo is probably disappointed you didn't use a firm surface to begin testing with. But since your cutting mat was used for everything it's acceptable.
Would you make review of colorfabb brand new LW-ASA, and compare to LW-PLA? I m curious, if RC models printed with LW-ASA will become more impact resistant. What are benefits of each ?
LW-ASA is more brittle in an Impact, there is a video on youtube were a guy compared to 3d prints in LW-PLA and LW-ASA. The LW-ASA shattered as it was glass, the big benefit is UV resistant and temp resistant.
See's Maker Muse's video on the CR-30. See's this... and the portion on "does it act like a sponge" and my first thought is "why do I want to print a pool noodle?" Glad that of all the channels that looked into Varishore and LW-PLA, it was this one. Better then "hey, it's pretty cool. Look at this model!" and to have actual methods and data behind the tests.
I had the first layers of this material crumble apart after I didn't purge the nozzle properly. So that's why I think that TPU and PLA don't combine very well.
I've seen some videos regarding this and it doesn't look too promising. I don't know if I'm allowed to share URL:s but search YT for "Robotic Flex Gripper Mixed TPU and ABS 3d printed" to see some tests combining harder plastic and TPU. There are some successful tests (soda can holder for instance). I hope Stefan can do his thorough tests on the subject, maybe print some "grabbing, interlocking layers" when changing from one material to the other will help? I haven't got a 3D printer yet but hoping for a Prusa i3 Mk3 with the MultiMaterial addon soon. I am curious if you can print PLA/ABS with the TPU in T-slots (like the grooves on milling machine tables) so the TPU doesn't have to adhere to the harder material but still can't fall out even if you turn the object upside down? My thought is to get a non-slip surface on serving trays and such by letting the TPU sit just slightly higher than the surface. I'm sure this, or other "interlocking layers" version, is tested somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. BTW: Great videos Stefan! You are one of my fave sources to learn 3D-printing! Stay Safe, Healthy, and Happy folks!
Good job Stefan as usual ;). This material is the best that we have found to build the big tundra wheels for our next rc bush plane project, not only because it is light but also because its softness provides a great shock absorption which is ideal to absorb the energy of hard landing.
Just about to start printing with colorFabb varioshore TPU! Thank you for the GREAT breakdown. Saving me a bunch of time and more time to focus on the part we're making! Thanks as always Stefan!
I'm wondering if you're onto something with the bubbles deflating with the hotter temps - but I would say it's probably on the external surfaces of the filament, because I run production parts with ~1-1.2mm widths and they get softer right up to about 245c - so maybe the extra volume vs surface area plays a part there - maybe try it on a larger nozzle and see if you fair the same. And yes, definately a closed cell foam, I've used it for outdoor/wet applications for 12 months or so, no problems.
Great video still one of the few on varioshore. Can you further explain what you mean by increasing speed of print , does that mean at a set extrusion rate and temp you can print faster than you would with ordinary tpu?
A silly question, perhaps, but would the ~60 Shore D of your cutting mat have affected the measured results of the test pieces? Shouldn't they have been tested on a hard surface?
Since the hardness varies so much in 10 degree increments, it would be neat to see what the effect would be if you did 1-2 degree increments between 210 and 230 C.
I wonder how fine you can control the temperature in reality, of course software might show you even 0.1ºc if configured for such, but I'm sure during the print time it's varying about 2~4ºc up and down constantly.
Anybody try using this for sound panels? I have designs for some to print but want them to actually be effective with the material properties so I thought of TPU and then discovered this video!
Wondering as blowing agents make recycled filament more complicated (especially if you want to make such a filament), but the mass savings for things like ROV Aircraft Wings seems nearly invaluable.
abrasion resistance and strength are going to be the two big downsides of this vs regular tpu of the same softness, and would have been good to compare.
But if you squeeze the print underwater, will it absorb water? Even if the bubbles are separate they must be able to absorb water because the bubbles open up to release the air when the print is pressed.
Hallo Stefan, Ich bin über ein Proposal eines Deutschen auf UA-cam gestoßen, dessen Vorschlag genial scheint - es fehlt aber an einem großen Vlogger (wie du einer bist) - toll, wenn ich da helfen könnte zu vermitteln, bzw seine Idee einem breiteren Publikum zugänglich zu machen: Er hat eine geniale Lösung, welche Filamentrollen zukünftig obsolet machen können! Seine Lösung ist analog jener, die man aus der Elektroinstallationstechnik kennt - die Rolle wird ohne Spulenkern von innen heraus entnommen - das ist wohl inzw millionenfach bewährt (Kupferleitungen). Ich finde das Thema sehr wichtig, da Spulen soviel Müll produzieren. Interesse von dir?? 👉🏿 Ich freue mich auf deine Kontaktaufnahme... und alles Gute inzw filament@gmx.net
Do you think this would be a good material to print a water tight gasket or O ring of sorts out of? Looking to pair a 3D printed gasket with some dielectric grease to seal something and I feel like this printed at around 65-70A would work great
What about disposal? Can you treat it like normal TPU, or do the additives make it non-recyclable and non-degradable? As always, missing such key points but SHOUTING! a lot...
Any 3d printed part is landfill. Basically none of the filaments we use are either recyclable or degradable. The "bio-degradeable" filaments are useless as well, because they don't degrade unless exposed to specific enzymes with high temperatures. Useless.
What nozzle diameter did you use? I just printed with .8mm at 230C, however the result was not very soft. Maybe it's not related to the nozzle size, and I just had too thick walls and too much infill for the small part I printed though.
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While I liked the subscribe in this video, I think you missed out on a perfect "smash that like button". Lol
Ich habe eine Idee zum Drucken!!!!
Und zwar ein Volume Spacer den man in eine Federgabel einsetzt.
Ich würd gerne jeweils 3stk von von jeder Temperatur bei dir Kaufen um dich auch etwas zu unterstützen, selbst wenn ich keinen 3D Drucker besitze oder gerade deswegen =)
die Zylinder sollten 30mm im Durchmesser und eine höhe auch von 30mm haben. Infill so wie in den Video gezeigt/ verwendet. Ach und in der mitt eventuell ein 5mm Loch hindurch
Bitte Antworte mir auf den Kommentar wenn Du Interesse hast, dann schreib ich Dir eine Mail nochmal =)
you should try the lay-fomm 40 filament! it seems very similar to this, and i'm curious as to which one would be better.
Hi! Maybe you can test and review Facilan C8 and HT? Quite interesting materials out there :D I am glad that I found your channel, a lot of interesting stuff.
Perfect pronunciation of "al dente". Thumbs up!
Mille grazie! 😃
0:12 - Mitutoyo tools. This guy is not fooling around.
Sometimes it's good to know certain people 😅 I only want to generate the best results for you.
@@CNCKitchen I use a Mitutooyo dial caliper that is almost as old as me, my dad got it around '85. Still as accurate as day 1
I have a Mitutoyo too. FYI it reads exactly the same as my Harbor Freight calipers 100% of the time.
This guys got calipers that cost more than my printer. I like it!
Worth every penny and I'll probably be able to hand them down to my kids at some point.
Perhaps also very interesting for thermal insulation in a print.
Good idea. Just beware that decomposition/burning polyurethane creates highly toxic gasses.
Could be a nice idea. Just don't forget that it's still a thermoplastic and doesn't have the same thermal characteristics as regular PU foam
@@henrymach I am also wondering what the thermal properties are. Of course for lower temperatures (below 100c). Then you could incapsulate the soft foam part into harder parts depending on the print temperatures.
Very good point. The closed porosity should give you great thermal insulation properties.
@@CNCKitchen Doesn't Regular TPU not already have a pretty good insulation property?
Make a paper airplane or a glider with the "lightest" version of the foaming TPU.
From the way he describes it, sounds like it's getting close to being 3D printer Styrofoam.
I really appreciate the extensive and careful testing.
As soon as I heard it's closed-cell, it made me think of the perfect application: custom storage insert for breakables.
Warmest belated congratulations on the birth of your child! I wish you guys the best!
Thank you so much!!
That is BRILLIANT! I was looking for some way of doing a 3D print with one end harder (for mounting) and the other softer (for application.) Now I can simply print each end at different temperatures.
Hello Stefan,
It is very interesting. TPU material is hyperelastic material which is non-compressible when it is in this bulk form. This property is obviously lost when add air bubbles inside. It could be very interesting to use tour universal tensile machine to investigate this !
If one thinks in term of small strains (and not finite strains) it means that it is not only the shore value (and thus the apparent modulus) but also the value of the "Poisson coefficient" even if this is improper in finite strains. So the applications could vary as incompressibility is often and advantage or a drawback. I think it could be nice to investigate !
I hope I will find some time to investigate tensile test on this !
Best regards,
Thanks for the comment! I'll keep that in mind. There is still a bigger TPU test outstanding.
only CNC kitchen would actually have friends at Mitutoyo! They make great stuff and I am surprised at their generosity.
It's a shame Mitutoyo only let you borrow those hardness testers. :P
Although, I can understand why- guessing just one of those probably cost more than most of your printers. haha
He has an e3d toolchanger with 4 extruders that costs about 2500€ ... just how expensive are those tools?!
I was curious about their prices and there's some for 400€ so less expensive than expected but tbh there's also some over 800, and I have no idea what the difference is.
Edit one of the ones used in the video is 487€ and the other is 838
@@imnota hm, that can actually get you a decent 3D printer.
If I ask kindly and you guys have interesting project ideas, I'm quite sure they'll lent me those a second time.
@@CNCKitchen While I'm not sure these, or any other tools are really made for it, I'd be SUPER interested in creep testing on various materials.
It's one property that has actually caused me problems with functional prints.
Can you "post expand" the fillament? Eg: use a heat gun or soldering iron or oven to expand the TPU only in spot locations after the object has been printed?
That could be interesting for gaskets
I doubt it because the plastic melts at a lower temp than the foaming, so to prevent the structure of the part from being ruined you would need to enclose it but then there'd be nowhere for the gasses caused by foaming to go.
I thought about that as well. I'll see if I can find an interesting application for that.
Yeah, so there is potential risk that high temp. conditions will impact initial part hardness properties over time ?
I think perhaps a CNC laser might be appropriate :)
This is pretty good concept
It would have been very interesting to see the shore hardness of the infill samples but printed with the TPU at its maximum foaming. It would have let us see how low the varioshore TPU can go.
Excellent as always!
hello back, shtefan. I feel welcomed.
Flashbacks to my first nylon print... it looked like styrofoam :DDDD
Sounds like it was very moist, reminds me the video he made printing trimmer line, same result. Then after drying it up it printed perfectly.
Yeah if you have nylon it needs to be contained in a dry box
That actually sounds like it could be useful as an alternative
When you don't dry your nylon...
Do you think this product could be incorporated with prosthetic creation? Looks promising.
How bouncy can this material get? I'd love to see energy return measurements.
Caution: foam tpu ages badly, observe mechanical properties and hydrolysis.
If you have a minute, over what kind of period?
Do you have any source for this? I just ordered a roll for printing gaskets..
I want to try some, but it costs over $100 / KG here in Canada.
would you say this could work for prosthetic props instead of needing silicone?
Genius stuff, thanks
Stefan, another amazing review. How do you print multiple models at different temperatures? I understand how to change temperatures at height/layer. Do you pause at height/layer, manually adjust the nozzle temp, then resume? Or is this a custom script? I apologize if this has been asked and answered already.
Curios how the foamed material performs on 2 footwear metrics: rebound and compression set.
Um. Tpu doesn't do well W annealing? I wonder if that high temp foaming could be used in annealing processes as a forming agent...
I wonder how the flexibility degrades the life of something that flexes a lot. Bend a 3mm plate 100 times and analyze the physical properties. Does this material absorb moisture or does it need to be dried. I could see making ink stamps with such material.
Just ordered some with a black friday offer. Once I designed and printed an edge protection with ninjaflex and variable infill pattern to adjust the hardess ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749295 hard base and soft buffer at the tip). I will try it again with varioshore. An other project of mine was a vibration damper. Same concept... vibation damping capabilities would also interesting to investigate.... I have to say you are producing the best 3D printing videos on youtube. Always hard facts, I love them.
Hello Stefan. First, thank you for this test/tutorial. Is very useful! :)
I want to please you if can you explain me how did you change Extruder multiplier in the same print on Prusa MK3?
Can you (or I) make a thin flexible face (for a robot), possibly with some attachment points for actuators? :D
Hello Stefan,
i have just seen your video about the varioshore TPU from colorfabb. do you think this could be the right filament to print grips for sim racing steering wheels?
Would you be able to update the variable density PLA testing with Shore D values for that filament as well?
I see what I can do!
Are you going to upgrade to the new mk3s+?
Also I have been investing my time into strain wave gear boxes. I think that this material would be quite interesting for the flex spline as it it usually the hardest part to get right.
Probably not. My MK3S works great at the moment. No problems with the leveling as well.
At what speeds did you print? Did you set one speed for all types of motions since the whole system is speed dependent?
Can we use 3d printer filament in 3d pen
Yes, of course. If this TPU works might depend on your pen.
hello, i am from latvia and i would like to know where you can buy diabase x60 in europe. I recently tried to look for it but i could only find shops shipping it to the usa. i would also rather buy just a small sample not an entire spool because i dont have any very specialized hardware like a flexion extruder just a dual gear direct drive with filament guiding right after the gears (bondtech clone) and a motherboard that supports linear advance.
You can get a apparently equivalent filament from Germany, however I have not tested it yet. I would not recommend to try to print 60A flexible filament if you do not have a dedicated extruder for that
www.bavaria-filaments.com/product-page/bavaflex-tpu-extra-soft-schwarz
did i miss something, or did you cast a new silicone sock? :D
Nope, still one of the old ones. They hold up pretty well!
Hi, you are German?
Red Storm Rising is great, but anyone who claims to have read a book with their ears is deluding themselves. I know Audible is a huge sponsor on youtube but I can't help it. Podcasts and lectures are great listening. Anything worth reading is not. Be a proud book snob.
first
excellent insights, as always, excellent video Stefan! 👌😎
I like your short vids!
Same!
Hey i'm subbed to both of you!
@@antonrickert9427 they are both amazing, right?
You are marsgizmo i am big fan
I DON'T EVEN OWN A 3D PRINTER, WHY HAVE I WATCHED ALL YOUR VIDEOS?!?!?!
You will own one soon
It is a sign
@@tobylofmark1084 I wish. Tiny apartment, single-dad... Some day, but not quite soon.
mood, also m o n e e e e (especially of all the filament i'd use)
Also just this channel's d a t a (so many nice graphs, and materials science tests)
I wonder how this TPU would adhere to a harder material like PLA.
I'm thinking about variable shock absorption between hard layers.
I've had reasonably good success making two-part designs with a PLA base, a filament change to TPU, and finishing with the TPU. I've also used PETG - in that case, I had to change filament at a point in the model where I could maximize the contact between PETG layer and TPU layers above it. While changing the filament, the temperature has to be lowered quickly for the TPU or else it is very stringy. Some custom gcode similar to that used in temperature towers was sufficient but I still had to wait before inserting the TPU so that the printer didn't resume printing until the nozzle temperature was lower. Not an ideal way to go, but the parts worked OK.
I’ve been using Varioshore TPU for a bunch of projects. It’s an amazing material, love the soft touch feel. Stringing / oozing is definitely a pain compared to other flexible filaments.
hey, do you change the temps during the print ? and if yes, i assume the temps can only be changed layer-wise and not for specific areas, i guess ?
@@mm-hl7gh the only way to achieve that is to use dual extruding printer with varying Temps in hot ends.
This could be a good choice material for printable replacement headphone pads.
Pretty amazing how the filament companies keep coming up with more and more interesting stuff. Great video!
I bought some of this about a month ago and havent gotten to use it because I wasnt ready to do a bunch of testing. Thanks for doing all the work for us and recording the whole process!!! Hahaha
Shore hardness is fine, but how about the friction coefficient?
There are still no usefull filaments for printing tires.
Do you have any experiences using resin 3D printers and flexible resins to print tyres? I have seen some good looking samples, but have not yet printed any. Still looking for good info on flexible resins. I have had good experiences on using clear resin for small clear parts ie. headlight lenses etc.
@@Petroskoi3000 i heard that resin flexibles shoul be better, but i dont have a resin printer
@@blubb7711 Thank you for quick reply. I have read the same, but I have found the flexible resins hard to get and expensive. It does not help to live in one of northest and maybe the worst shithole countrys in europe. Maybe I have to buy 1kg of flex resin for christmas and try it. I found some with 55A shore hardness, but I can't find any info about the surface friction.
Edit: I have to add that I do love the details my new DLP 3D priter makes. FDM can not compete with it. It could easily print text to the tyre wall etc. I have made some nice rims, but have to wait for summer, or at least the pandemic to ease up to go to the track and test how will they last. The resin prints seem to be some what more fragile than the PETG and PLA I usually use to print with.
@@blubb7711 Easy solution is to print a mold and then cast your tires. You can even add locking features to the hub and cast with the hub in place for stronger adhesion.
Good point. Would be interesting for the Open RC project.
I love the benchy thrown into the bowl of water floating sideways haha
Perfect Storm in a water glass 😁
Mitutoyo is probably disappointed you didn't use a firm surface to begin testing with. But since your cutting mat was used for everything it's acceptable.
Damn, good point. Though I'm 99% sure that it doesn't matter for shore A at least.
Would you make review of colorfabb brand new LW-ASA, and compare to LW-PLA?
I m curious, if RC models printed with LW-ASA will become more impact resistant. What are benefits of each ?
Just have seen that yesterday. Looks pretty compelling!
LW-ASA is more brittle in an Impact, there is a video on youtube were a guy compared to 3d prints in LW-PLA and LW-ASA. The LW-ASA shattered as it was glass, the big benefit is UV resistant and temp resistant.
See's Maker Muse's video on the CR-30. See's this... and the portion on "does it act like a sponge" and my first thought is "why do I want to print a pool noodle?" Glad that of all the channels that looked into Varishore and LW-PLA, it was this one. Better then "hey, it's pretty cool. Look at this model!" and to have actual methods and data behind the tests.
Awesome idea!
Hi, have you tried to print it on top of normal PLA? Does it fuse togeher?
I had the first layers of this material crumble apart after I didn't purge the nozzle properly. So that's why I think that TPU and PLA don't combine very well.
I've seen some videos regarding this and it doesn't look too promising. I don't know if I'm allowed to share URL:s but search YT for "Robotic Flex Gripper Mixed TPU and ABS 3d printed" to see some tests combining harder plastic and TPU. There are some successful tests (soda can holder for instance). I hope Stefan can do his thorough tests on the subject, maybe print some "grabbing, interlocking layers" when changing from one material to the other will help?
I haven't got a 3D printer yet but hoping for a Prusa i3 Mk3 with the MultiMaterial addon soon. I am curious if you can print PLA/ABS with the TPU in T-slots (like the grooves on milling machine tables) so the TPU doesn't have to adhere to the harder material but still can't fall out even if you turn the object upside down? My thought is to get a non-slip surface on serving trays and such by letting the TPU sit just slightly higher than the surface. I'm sure this, or other "interlocking layers" version, is tested somewhere, but I haven't found it yet.
BTW: Great videos Stefan! You are one of my fave sources to learn 3D-printing!
Stay Safe, Healthy, and Happy folks!
Good job Stefan as usual ;). This material is the best that we have found to build the big tundra wheels for our next rc bush plane project, not only because it is light but also because its softness provides a great shock absorption which is ideal to absorb the energy of hard landing.
It sounds expensive, but I guess when you measure it per volume, it's actually quite affordable.
Yes, at the maximum foamed up state it's just half the price per volume.
where is the sub model ? just asking :D nice video this was really informative. again!
So...where do I find your naughtyfication bell?
Just about to start printing with colorFabb varioshore TPU! Thank you for the GREAT breakdown. Saving me a bunch of time and more time to focus on the part we're making!
Thanks as always Stefan!
Great video Stefan. I like the look of the colorfab temperature gradiented test print you show. Where can I find that?
Weren't you the guy to help me bump the ability of my X1? And now I'm still learning from you? Fuck yes.
Have you thought about using the plaster used in metal casting to remelt printed parts?
Very interesting !... Could you do a strength test at different temperatures too ?
I'm curious about layer adhesion with all these bubbles...
I'm wondering if you're onto something with the bubbles deflating with the hotter temps - but I would say it's probably on the external surfaces of the filament, because I run production parts with ~1-1.2mm widths and they get softer right up to about 245c - so maybe the extra volume vs surface area plays a part there - maybe try it on a larger nozzle and see if you fair the same.
And yes, definately a closed cell foam, I've used it for outdoor/wet applications for 12 months or so, no problems.
Awesome! First use case? Built in hinges in a single print without swapping filament? Second? Sturdy box with soft outside or inside?
Bet this is great for making compliment mechanisms by turning the temperature up in certain areas to bend
*compliant
Great video still one of the few on varioshore. Can you further explain what you mean by increasing speed of print , does that mean at a set extrusion rate and temp you can print faster than you would with ordinary tpu?
A silly question, perhaps, but would the ~60 Shore D of your cutting mat have affected the measured results of the test pieces? Shouldn't they have been tested on a hard surface?
Since the hardness varies so much in 10 degree increments, it would be neat to see what the effect would be if you did 1-2 degree increments between 210 and 230 C.
I wonder how fine you can control the temperature in reality, of course software might show you even 0.1ºc if configured for such, but I'm sure during the print time it's varying about 2~4ºc up and down constantly.
Hi what nozzle size do you recommend with this compound? Very informative thank you
Hmm, wonder if you could print a model that is neutrally buoyant and balanced in water straight out of the printer
Print the first few layers more massive. Like with a modifier for infill or using lower temperatures that foam less with this filament.
Super helpful. Thank you! Were you varying flow rate at all? What flow rate were you using with 220 degree nozzle?
"My friends at Mitutoyo ... which they kindly agreed."
I can't clearly distinguish the statement from the flex, but's ok. :D
Just use humidified nylon lol!
50 bucks Varioshore TPU is just 13 bucks kilo TPU in Russia
Yes, In Russia spool of TPU cost 13 bucks
Anybody try using this for sound panels? I have designs for some to print but want them to actually be effective with the material properties so I thought of TPU and then discovered this video!
Anyone with settings for bambu lab printers? Cooling/temps/flow..?
I would love additive foam pattern making for lost foam casting. Not sure TPU would work.
Anderson David Lopez Cynthia Walker Ronald
Would there be anyway to have a FDM setup with "Mechanical Foaming" (ie air/gas bubbles from the extruder itself, not a blowing/foaming agent?
Wondering as blowing agents make recycled filament more complicated (especially if you want to make such a filament), but the mass savings for things like ROV Aircraft Wings seems nearly invaluable.
Imagine a rc plane printed with this, and foaming rigid plastic in one peice on a toolchanger...
abrasion resistance and strength are going to be the two big downsides of this vs regular tpu of the same softness, and would have been good to compare.
on my printer the filament wraps around the extruder gears and stops extruding. how low should the speed be?
Dude i print Filaflex A60 Tpu with a standard predator and it works real good
But if you squeeze the print underwater, will it absorb water? Even if the bubbles are separate they must be able to absorb water because the bubbles open up to release the air when the print is pressed.
That slap scared me
How well does it burn? Thinking lost foam aluminum casting 🤔
Thompson Donald Thomas Sandra Martinez Brian
Hallo Stefan,
Ich bin über ein Proposal eines Deutschen auf UA-cam gestoßen, dessen Vorschlag genial scheint - es fehlt aber an einem großen Vlogger (wie du einer bist) - toll, wenn ich da helfen könnte zu vermitteln, bzw seine Idee einem breiteren Publikum zugänglich zu machen:
Er hat eine geniale Lösung, welche Filamentrollen zukünftig obsolet machen können! Seine Lösung ist analog jener, die man aus der Elektroinstallationstechnik kennt - die Rolle wird ohne Spulenkern von innen heraus entnommen - das ist wohl inzw millionenfach bewährt (Kupferleitungen). Ich finde das Thema sehr wichtig, da Spulen soviel Müll produzieren. Interesse von dir?? 👉🏿
Ich freue mich auf deine Kontaktaufnahme... und alles Gute inzw
filament@gmx.net
3D printed fleshlight
why are you lookin at me like that ? someone had to say it
I would really like to see if its possible to print shoes with this filanent that is atleast a lil comfontable
Johnson Christopher Davis Dorothy Davis Matthew
As someone who LARPs I wonder how this would go making weapons
Seems like this would be good for printing rc car wheels
Am wondering if some one can make cottom on 3d printer 😅
Do you think this would be a good material to print a water tight gasket or O ring of sorts out of? Looking to pair a 3D printed gasket with some dielectric grease to seal something and I feel like this printed at around 65-70A would work great
What about disposal? Can you treat it like normal TPU, or do the additives make it non-recyclable and non-degradable? As always, missing such key points but SHOUTING! a lot...
Any 3d printed part is landfill. Basically none of the filaments we use are either recyclable or degradable. The "bio-degradeable" filaments are useless as well, because they don't degrade unless exposed to specific enzymes with high temperatures. Useless.
Perez Sarah Harris Kenneth Harris Anthony
This investigation... was awesome! Thank you
I wonder what this would do if reinforced with a embeded fiber.
What nozzle diameter did you use? I just printed with .8mm at 230C, however the result was not very soft.
Maybe it's not related to the nozzle size, and I just had too thick walls and too much infill for the small part I printed though.