Thank you for the video. I love using gel stain & have stained many pieces in my home. For most, I have used a lint-free tee shirt and have applied three coats. The first one doesn't look great; the second coat is better; the third coat is beautiful. Using a tee shirt eliminates a great deal of product waste and allows me to get uniform coverage - although the first coat often doesn't always appear uniform. Keep the faith and carry on - it will get much better.
Hi, from the land down under. Michigan!!! Excellent teacher!!! Finished my first piece of furniture using gel stain. Loved the product. Looking forward to using gel stain again. Love the doors and thank you for the tutorial. Learned something.
I have two pickled green side tables, with a high gloss on them….am REALLY wanting to change the color, but keep stain and see the wood grain. Thanks!!
Looks great! I guess though I'm not sure on how much time it saves, cleaning, sanding, applying 2 or 3 coats of gel, then applying 2 or 3 coats of finish, not sure what steps are being saved.
At 8:40 you said the grain darken. Does your door has a clear finish like poly or shellac? I have a thick clear coat on my cabinets and the gel stain just wipe off of it. I know it supposed to grab to it, but what is the proper level of wiping?
Hi and thank you. I’m wondering why the glass was not taped prior to staining? Is it because you are an expert at this and have a steady hand? Do you recommend taping glass? Or does the stain simply wipe off if it gets on the glass surface? Thank you
I do have a steady hand from all the painting I do but yes, you can mask off it you feel more comfortable. If you choose not to and get some of the gel stain on the glass, so long as it's wiped off immediately, it's okay. If it starts to dry, it will stay on the glass. Hope this helps
This was the first video I have found using gel stain over oak orange stain. It was super helpful as I am wanting to achieve a dark look to match an oak table I took back to raw wood and stained with Mineral Fusion Ebony Stain and Finishing oil. I realise this is a Dixie Belle product, and wonder if you have any experience with the Mineral Fusion Gel stain and top coat, which i know you don't wipe back? Either way. Thank you for your video and for explaining denatured alcohol. I am in Calgary and went hunting for some and no one knew what I was talking about!!
@@Julievansickle haha yes, they call it by another name then we do. I’ve used Minwax Gel Stains (which work great!) but never Fusion gel stains. I’ve used their paints tho… fusion is a quality brand!
Hi, thank you for the video. I tried this to kitchen cabinets here and there for just to touch up where things have been worn down. It's 24 hours and it's tacky not wet but tacky should I just leave it alone or should I sand it down again?
I would like to try this on my front door. About how long would it take for the door to be dry? I live in the high desert and we are in the 80-90's F. right now. Thank you very much.
Great tutorial! I would never have guessed that using a black stain would give you that result! I have a yellow pine headboard that I’ve been wanting to match my pecan dresser. Any tips as to what shades might get me there? Same yellow pine finish on end tables that I want to be a barn wood gray color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I wish I had a direct answer for you but it's hard to say. Testing in an inconspicuous area is your best bet. Wait until it dries and then see if it's a close match.
HI...I love your channel and the pieces you post on IG. Would you do a tutorial on how to paint furniture as it looks it was lacquered? With a very smooth look and no brush or roller marks. Thank you.
Im a complete noob at this stuff. I just bought a piece of furniture from the store but don’t like the wood color & would like it more of a Mahogany color to match my floors. Would this work for that?
Yes! Be sure the gel stain you are using is darker than the original finish. Do a test area on an inconspicuous area to make sure you like the color. And be sure to scuff up the finish with a sanding pad before apply the new gel stain color. I have more tips for you here - ua-cam.com/video/X2_fZUVt9p4/v-deo.html Hope this helps. :)
Great video as usual - doors look so nice! I have a full length mirror with a similar stain - it also has some intricate carving detail - how would colored wax or dry brush do on gel stain? Thanks
Yes I have and its beautiful. I would suggest trying a text area on your cabinets though. Depending on the wood you're working with you will get different results.
@@SalvagedInspirations thank you, I have oak cabinets that were stained a shade or so darker. Do you have pictures of white gel-stained kitchen cabinets? Thx,
@@lisaw8863 unfortunately I don’t. With dark stained oak you want to be careful because you can get bleedthrough (blotchy discolouration) through the white stain. It’s always more tricky going lighter than it is darker. Test first to make sure you like the results!
I have wood treads that I have sanded and some of the bare wood is visible. Previously they were coated with a stain and then verathane. Do I need to put something on them before I put the gel stain on. A wood conditioner?
I want to gel stain my existing oak staircase banisters with a Java gel stain. I also had new posts red oak installed. Will the colors be the same on the new wood posts and existing banisters? Nervous about it. Thanks for your response.
You'd have to test in an inconspicuous spot to see if you like the results. light over dark is more challenging. It's much easier to do dark over light.
Great tutorial! I am wondering if I used gel stain on stairs, would you recommend the same sealer? Or, the other Dixie Belle product you mentioned for high traffic areas?
There is! Here's a link to the ones I use but you can probably find a white gel stain at a Home Depot or Lowes as well! dixiebellepaint.com/no-pain-gel-stain-oil-based/?_ef_transaction_id=&oid=2&affid=14 (affil link)
Alan, have you completed your project yet? I'm redoing my kitchen cabinets and am on the fence between gel stain and poly-stain (leaning towards gel bc it's less streaky). It's going over an existing finish and was curious about your experience.
Should’ve used a 80 sand paper. Get more of original color out of it. Then Sand with 120 or 220 to make it smooth and ready to stain. Would’ve let the colonial black pop more true
Thank you! Have you ever applied this product to a yellowish color of wood? I think it’s just as awful as the oranger color of stain! I’d be very interested in seeing what color it would turn out🧐
Beautiful. Would I be able to use a different company clear coat. I am thinking of the Minwax polyurethane. I forgot if you said this stain is water or oil. Thanks for the video. It really helps. I want to do my bathroom but I want a much lighter color than what you went with. Maybe the walnut you showed or a little lighter. Thanks again.
Question: (anyone can answer) if gel stain doesn’t seep like regualr stain and just sits on the surface and previous stain peeks through, what would be the point of a gel stain? What’s the benefit as it seems like a lot of back and forth with techniques.
She's right. There is also techniques where you can stain a wood it's natural color like walnut on walnut. Then shellac coat it, also called sanding sealer. Then do a gel stain to alter the color before topcoating. This helps with UV discoloration a lot. Especially woods like walnut that are sensitive to UV discoloration.
Not sure if it's too late or not but, no. Wood conditioner is for raw wood. Also of note, gel stain is typically not intended to be wiped off. It's formulated to sit on top and cure without the need to soak into the wood like common stain is. That's why it's excellent for covering old finishes and why it's necessary to scuff sand. Think of it as a really thin and transparent but heavily dyed paint. A more common issue beginners run into is silicone intrusion. If you have ever cleaned your project with that silly stuff in the yellow spray can that smells like lemons, you need to be sure to get it all off. Try TSP. It's at every paint store hardware store. When you apply the stain if you see little blotches of light color that keep forming, thats silicone intrusion. Have to start over because those spots will show in the finish when it's dried. Hope this helps.
@Paige Biller you im realizing now I'm speaking more from experience and less from an educational perspective. When it comes to gel stain. Since there is hundreds of options its probably best to stick to manufacturer instructions. Generally in my shop though when using a gel stain im trying to spread it sparingly. Not like penetrating stain where you see people "flooding" the surface. But I do what I call a maintenance wipe after application and gently and lightly wipe with a clean cotton rag making sure it's fresh cotton on each wipe. A more simple method would be to use a natural bristle brush to apply it and then get one of those foam edging pads and do a gentle wipe with the grain. Sorry for the long response I just didn't want to set you up for failure. Haha
Personally, I would sand. I haven't found a wood filler (that I like) that does a great job when I stain over it. But that said, if you're doing a really dark finish, you could fill and then add additional gel stain to cover up the filler.
You CAN use Gel Stains over paint which will give a sort of glaze effect. I would test on an inconspicuous area to make sure it's the look your after before tackling a full project tho.
I don't mean to be negative or hurt your feelings, but I've been painting since age 9 helping my Grandfather and professionally since 1980, a total of 50 of my 59 years on this Earth. This door looks uneven and blotchy. It would never pass a professional painters inspection. You have light and dark places all up and down the door as well as a dark ring around the door knob which should have been removed to prevent this. With the door knob off you could have make one sweep up and down the entire of the door. You really need to remove all hardware especially on something stained or you will have a dark ring around the door knob, at the very least you will have the stain not going with the grain correctly. It is easier to remove the hardware and replace it than it is to go through all this hassle trying to stain and varnish around it, trying to get it even, taping it up, then pulling the tape off and still having paint, stain or varnish under the tape. By the time you fool with all this you could have taken the hardware off and replaced it. That's not the only thing that looks bad. The door is uneven with dark and light spots. There's a light streak directly underneath the door knob maybe an inch wide and 8" or 10" inches long where you took more stain off. Professional painter does not wipe stain back like that. They brush it out neatly with natural China Bristle Brush. Even better is a China bristle Ox Hair blend brush. If the stain is too dark a painter will get a lighter shade or in the case of your penetrating stain they mix it with natural penetrating stain keeping track of the formula. I will get a shot glass or some little small cup like this and I will mix it say one part the one part and see what it looks like and go from there it may be two to one three to one in whichever order it needs to be, lighter or darker once I get that I can make a thousand gallons. With the gel stain I realize it's going to be harder to brush and not wipe it back. I've always been able to use regular penetrating stain right over an existing finish but what I do is I prime it that is if it's been painted with a flat oil primer tinted the color of bare wood. Then I put regular penetrating stain over the primer. In the case of something like you have where you still want the grain to show through I can still use penetrating stain over it. I just push it up there real quickly and brush it out neatly using a dry brush, one that I've kicked the excess stain out of, brush the stain out neatly and it will look good. The gel stain might be easier for novice. You want the color a little bit darker and you're using black stain which forces you to have to wipe it off because it's way too dark. Then it wipes off unevenly which is not your fault. Whenever you wipe stain back especially when applied over an existing finish it is not going to wipe back evenly like it would over bare wood. There's nothing you're going to be able to do about it. Stain will almost always wipe back unevenly when applied over in existing finish. What you need to do is get a much lighter color and brush a very thin coat over it neatly with the hardware removed. Then take your brush and brush it out on something like a piece of cardboard getting as much of the stain off as you can. When your brush stops leaving stain on your cardboard you take your brush and go over the door evening it out whilst the gel or penetrating stain it's still with enough to move around with your dry brush. Let it dry completely overnight if it's humid you may need to let it dry 2 days because you're staining over an existing finish. When you brush a coat of varnish over your stain if it's not 110% dry the varnish will soften it up enough to where it will move around making it look uneven and blotchy. You do not have to worry about this nearly as much when you're standing over a brand new piece of bare wood because with either penetrating or gel stain the majority of it absorbs into the surface of the wood. what little bit is drying on the top is absorbed into the wood and you don't have to worry about it moving. You have to worry about this when you're doing something like a fiberglass door as well because the stain doesn't penetrate into the surface. I'm not trying to put you down or make fun of your work I'm only trying to give you constructive criticism and tell you how to do this correctly. The problem is your application method and leaving the hardware on the door. The way you're going about it it's always going to come out blotchy and uneven with a dark ring around the door knob and/or hardware on the door. I couldn't do it any differently if I was doing it the way you're doing it. When you're going over an existing finish it helps to take 220 sandpaper and lightly sand it this gives you a mechanical bond. A slight roughness of your surface makes the gel stain or especially the penetrating stain grip evenly to the surface you're staining preventing a lot of what I see in the video. I sincerely hope what I've said helps you good luck in all your future endeavors. God Bless You and Yourn!! Jimmy in NC...
I read our long instruction, and am taking notes. Wish you would give link to your own channel and teach how to stain over stain with penetrating stain. Thanks.
Taping off is helpful if you don't work with stains and paint that often. It gives a cleaner finish and confidence that you don't have to be quite so careful. hehe. ;)
Your advice flies in the face of most people's recommendations, which are for dry brushing the stain off. Why in the world you didn't mask off the windows is beyond me!
You seem like a sweet person but I am going to say this is whole Gel Stain DIY thing must appeal to people tolerant of streaks and blotches of color. I watched (with much amusement) a buddy applying gel stain on a single kitchen cabinet door for 20 minutes using foam brushes, bristle brushes, cloths and paper towels in hopes of getting the color even. I can't tell you how many times he wiped it all off and started over and you could still see a light spot wherever he started and stopped each stroke despite trying to feather it out. I wiped that gel stain crap off with mineral spirits and sprayed the door with rattle can Mohawk/Behlens Lacquer-Toner and got a furniture quality color and finish in about a minute and it was dry to the touch in under ten minutes. On French doors, I didn't even mask the glass. After spraying, you can scrape the overspray off the glass with a box cutter blade or scraper much faster and more accurately than you can ever mask. You will get professional results. As far as lacquer compatibility over other finishes, you won't lift the underlying finish as long as it's hard and not just freshly painted with plain varnish or enamel. If the finish is hard and sound, just build the color up with multiple light "dry-mist" coats and don't flood the piece with a wet coat. If in doubt, give it a quick spray with clear Bulllseye Shellac (aerosol can) first, let it dry and then spray the lacquer toner. The shellac is compatible with any type of finish and dries in under a half and hour and is also great for sealing drywall repairs before applying the spackle (keeps the wallboard paper from swelling and requiring multiple spackle coats to level it) and after sanding to make your paint adhere to the spackle. And for Christsake, if you want a solid color don't use a stain! Just buy a can of your desired color in a satin enamel, wipe down with mineral spirits and spray it.
Does the Mohawk/ Behlens product darken an existing finish? I had cabinets made. The contractor not only did not match the color I wanted, but used a water base poly which will not amber as an oil base would.
No music, is best. Very helpful video. Thank you
Awesome video! Great tips for gel staining!!! Love the background music!!! Thanks for sharing.
@@bifpow9252 thanks! 😊 I
I never would have thought of using black gel but you showed me that it works beautifully. Thank you!
Thank you. I wish I would have watched this before I started my project. The way you chose the color alone would have saved me many hours.
Best video for teaching how to darken the finished wood furniture! Easy and working excellently! Thank you so much!
Thanks so much Crystal!
Very informative video thank you! And also thank you for referencing Canadians that was helpful!
Yay! 🇨🇦 And so glad you found this helpful!
Met a bunch of cool Canadians in Palm Desert and Puerto Vallarta. Is anyone in Canada November - April? 😂
Thank you for the video. I love using gel stain & have stained many pieces in my home. For most, I have used a lint-free tee shirt and have applied three coats. The first one doesn't look great; the second coat is better; the third coat is beautiful. Using a tee shirt eliminates a great deal of product waste and allows me to get uniform coverage - although the first coat often doesn't always appear uniform. Keep the faith and carry on - it will get much better.
Thank you for making this video! You are an excellent teacher. I am getting ready to gel stain my oak cabinets.
Awww, thank YOU! And good luck with your cabinets, I'm sure they will be gorgeous! x
Hi, from the land down under. Michigan!!! Excellent teacher!!! Finished my first piece of furniture using gel stain. Loved the product. Looking forward to using gel stain again. Love the doors and thank you for the tutorial. Learned something.
Thanks for the laugh Christopher...love Michigan and I visit often as I'm just a 45 min drive from the border. So happy your makeover is a hit! 😊
Wow! Love the color you achieved! Gel stain is a fantastic product
Thanks. And I love Gel stain too... it really is fantastic!
THANK YOU for not just painting the doors!!! Turned out beautiful!
I can't believe this! Wonderful information. Thank you.
Oh I'm so glad you like it Linda! Have a super day. :)
Never knew this produced existed! Thank you for the info. I have a great project to use this on!
You're going to love it! Have fun. :)
I have two pickled green side tables, with a high gloss on them….am REALLY wanting to change the color, but keep stain and see the wood grain. Thanks!!
They do look fab
Great vid! The doors look awesome. Did you have to worry about getting the stain on the glass? How did you apply it to the wood around the glass?
Incredible info, lots of detail. Thank you so much!
The colonial black looks like the walnut like you said. I might just do that to achieve the actual walnut look.
Looks great! I guess though I'm not sure on how much time it saves, cleaning, sanding, applying 2 or 3 coats of gel, then applying 2 or 3 coats of finish, not sure what steps are being saved.
I like it, very good job. I’m sold going to going to do mine.
Thanks so much and have fun!
At 8:40 you said the grain darken. Does your door has a clear finish like poly or shellac?
I have a thick clear coat on my cabinets and the gel stain just wipe off of it. I know it supposed to grab to it, but what is the proper level of wiping?
Great video but please omit the background music, especially when you’re talking.
Hi and thank you. I’m wondering why the glass was not taped prior to staining? Is it because you are an expert at this and have a steady hand? Do you recommend taping glass? Or does the stain simply wipe off if it gets on the glass surface? Thank you
I do have a steady hand from all the painting I do but yes, you can mask off it you feel more comfortable. If you choose not to and get some of the gel stain on the glass, so long as it's wiped off immediately, it's okay. If it starts to dry, it will stay on the glass. Hope this helps
this video has helped me immensely...thank you
I'm so glad... thanks for watching! :)
This was the first video I have found using gel stain over oak orange stain. It was super helpful as I am wanting to achieve a dark look to match an oak table I took back to raw wood and stained with Mineral Fusion Ebony Stain and Finishing oil. I realise this is a Dixie Belle product, and wonder if you have any experience with the Mineral Fusion Gel stain and top coat, which i know you don't wipe back? Either way. Thank you for your video and for explaining denatured alcohol. I am in Calgary and went hunting for some and no one knew what I was talking about!!
@@Julievansickle haha yes, they call it by another name then we do. I’ve used Minwax Gel Stains (which work great!) but never Fusion gel stains. I’ve used their paints tho… fusion is a quality brand!
Hi, thank you for the video. I tried this to kitchen cabinets here and there for just to touch up where things have been worn down. It's 24 hours and it's tacky not wet but tacky should I just leave it alone or should I sand it down again?
I would like to try this on my front door. About how long would it take for the door to be dry? I live in the high desert and we are in the 80-90's F. right now. Thank you very much.
Great video!
Thanks Robert!
Great tutorial!!
Great tutorial! I would never have guessed that using a black stain would give you that result! I have a yellow pine headboard that I’ve been wanting to match my pecan dresser. Any tips as to what shades might get me there? Same yellow pine finish on end tables that I want to be a barn wood gray color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I wish I had a direct answer for you but it's hard to say. Testing in an inconspicuous area is your best bet. Wait until it dries and then see if it's a close match.
HI...I love your channel and the pieces you post on IG. Would you do a tutorial on how to paint furniture as it looks it was lacquered? With a very smooth look and no brush or roller marks. Thank you.
Thanks, Eliana! Would you like to see a lacquered spray finish? Or high gloss finish using a brush or roller?
Im a complete noob at this stuff. I just bought a piece of furniture from the store but don’t like the wood color & would like it more of a Mahogany color to match my floors. Would this work for that?
Yes! Be sure the gel stain you are using is darker than the original finish. Do a test area on an inconspicuous area to make sure you like the color. And be sure to scuff up the finish with a sanding pad before apply the new gel stain color. I have more tips for you here - ua-cam.com/video/X2_fZUVt9p4/v-deo.html Hope this helps. :)
Great video as usual - doors look so nice!
I have a full length mirror with a similar stain - it also has some intricate carving detail - how would colored wax or dry brush do on gel stain? Thanks
So long as the gel stain is 100% cured, wax or dry brush is not an issue. :)
@@SalvagedInspirations Thanks!
Great tutorial, have you ever used the white? I want white kitchen cabinets but not sure if the gel is what I should use.
Yes I have and its beautiful. I would suggest trying a text area on your cabinets though. Depending on the wood you're working with you will get different results.
@@SalvagedInspirations thank you, I have oak cabinets that were stained a shade or so darker. Do you have pictures of white gel-stained kitchen cabinets? Thx,
@@lisaw8863 unfortunately I don’t. With dark stained oak you want to be careful because you can get bleedthrough (blotchy discolouration) through the white stain. It’s always more tricky going lighter than it is darker. Test first to make sure you like the results!
I have wood treads that I have sanded and some of the bare wood is visible. Previously they were coated with a stain and then verathane. Do I need to put something on them before I put the gel stain on. A wood conditioner?
These look great! I love gel stain and the colonial black made such a nice update!!
Hi, my friend!!!! So nice to see you here!! 🤗Thanks so much... I think they look a lot better in my living room! Have a super day Erin. XOXO
How do you know how much to wipe off? How many coats did you use?
It come out better when you give it the finish with a brush also with a brush you are able to control the finish
I want to gel stain my existing oak staircase banisters with a Java gel stain. I also had new posts red oak installed. Will the colors be the same on the new wood posts and existing banisters? Nervous about it. Thanks for your response.
If I want to lighted my cabinets can a lighter color gel stain be applied over a medium brown?
You'd have to test in an inconspicuous spot to see if you like the results. light over dark is more challenging. It's much easier to do dark over light.
Yes, no music!
I'd love to use this on my front door which was stained 9 years ago. It's faded with almost no sheen left. Would you recommend gel stain?
Yes, that should work nicely!
I am wondering if the door knobs could not be removed. That would seem easier to do. The doors looked much nicer when you completed the project.
Also If you would've applied a 2nd coat, how long would you have waited to apply?
I am screaming at the screen: "REMOVE THE HARDWARE!!!!"
Great tutorial! I am wondering if I used gel stain on stairs, would you recommend the same sealer? Or, the other Dixie Belle product you mentioned for high traffic areas?
Either or will work beautifully. 👍I think DB Gator Hide is unfortunately unavailable right now due to supply issues.
Is there a gel stain to give a white-wash effect on the same original color as those doors?
There is! Here's a link to the ones I use but you can probably find a white gel stain at a Home Depot or Lowes as well! dixiebellepaint.com/no-pain-gel-stain-oil-based/?_ef_transaction_id=&oid=2&affid=14 (affil link)
Saved me a lot of time not sanding down to bare wood. Thanks!
Alan, have you completed your project yet? I'm redoing my kitchen cabinets and am on the fence between gel stain and poly-stain (leaning towards gel bc it's less streaky). It's going over an existing finish and was curious about your experience.
How about a deglosser? Can that be used and then use gel stain?
I’ve never tried but I don’t see why that wouldn’t work
@@SalvagedInspirations Ok, thank you.
Should’ve used a 80 sand paper. Get more of original color out of it. Then Sand with 120 or 220 to make it smooth and ready to stain. Would’ve let the colonial black pop more true
Thank you! Have you ever applied this product to a yellowish color of wood? I think it’s just as awful as the oranger color of stain! I’d be very interested in seeing what color it would turn out🧐
Love it
Thanks Julio!
Could you do this same technique on wood veneer doors?
How long did you let paint dry before gel stain
Beautiful. Would I be able to use a different company clear coat. I am thinking of the Minwax polyurethane. I forgot if you said this stain is water or oil. Thanks for the video. It really helps. I want to do my bathroom but I want a much lighter color than what you went with. Maybe the walnut you showed or a little lighter. Thanks again.
For sure! You can use other brands to topcoat.
Good tutorial-the music was almost unbearable is the only thing.
Great video, but the back ground music was terrible.
Question: (anyone can answer) if gel stain doesn’t seep like regualr stain and just sits on the surface and previous stain peeks through, what would be the point of a gel stain? What’s the benefit as it seems like a lot of back and forth with techniques.
Hi Ivy! It's a great way to darken up an existing stain without having to sand.
She's right. There is also techniques where you can stain a wood it's natural color like walnut on walnut. Then shellac coat it, also called sanding sealer. Then do a gel stain to alter the color before topcoating. This helps with UV discoloration a lot. Especially woods like walnut that are sensitive to UV discoloration.
Super helpful…. Question so you really dont need to put conditioner on the wood after you sand before you stain? I am starting my stair handrails.
Not sure if it's too late or not but, no. Wood conditioner is for raw wood. Also of note, gel stain is typically not intended to be wiped off. It's formulated to sit on top and cure without the need to soak into the wood like common stain is. That's why it's excellent for covering old finishes and why it's necessary to scuff sand. Think of it as a really thin and transparent but heavily dyed paint. A more common issue beginners run into is silicone intrusion. If you have ever cleaned your project with that silly stuff in the yellow spray can that smells like lemons, you need to be sure to get it all off. Try TSP. It's at every paint store hardware store. When you apply the stain if you see little blotches of light color that keep forming, thats silicone intrusion. Have to start over because those spots will show in the finish when it's dried. Hope this helps.
@@TheMjnorthcut this was so helpful! Thank you for the information!
@Paige Biller you im realizing now I'm speaking more from experience and less from an educational perspective. When it comes to gel stain. Since there is hundreds of options its probably best to stick to manufacturer instructions. Generally in my shop though when using a gel stain im trying to spread it sparingly. Not like penetrating stain where you see people "flooding" the surface. But I do what I call a maintenance wipe after application and gently and lightly wipe with a clean cotton rag making sure it's fresh cotton on each wipe. A more simple method would be to use a natural bristle brush to apply it and then get one of those foam edging pads and do a gentle wipe with the grain. Sorry for the long response I just didn't want to set you up for failure. Haha
Did you let it sit for a few minutes before you wiped it off?
can you use a deglosser/liquid sand paper instead of alcohol?
Is it possible to turn orange wood into gray with gel stain?
What do you do when you have scratches on the furniture? Do you fill them or sand deeper?
Personally, I would sand. I haven't found a wood filler (that I like) that does a great job when I stain over it. But that said, if you're doing a really dark finish, you could fill and then add additional gel stain to cover up the filler.
Would that stain sustain the weather?
What would you do if there was an area missing the original varnish?
Will this work over paint?
You CAN use Gel Stains over paint which will give a sort of glaze effect. I would test on an inconspicuous area to make sure it's the look your after before tackling a full project tho.
What top coat for something high traffic?
I don't mean to be negative or hurt your feelings, but I've been painting since age 9 helping my Grandfather and professionally since 1980, a total of 50 of my 59 years on this Earth. This door looks uneven and blotchy. It would never pass a professional painters inspection. You have light and dark places all up and down the door as well as a dark ring around the door knob which should have been removed to prevent this. With the door knob off you could have make one sweep up and down the entire of the door. You really need to remove all hardware especially on something stained or you will have a dark ring around the door knob, at the very least you will have the stain not going with the grain correctly. It is easier to remove the hardware and replace it than it is to go through all this hassle trying to stain and varnish around it, trying to get it even, taping it up, then pulling the tape off and still having paint, stain or varnish under the tape. By the time you fool with all this you could have taken the hardware off and replaced it. That's not the only thing that looks bad. The door is uneven with dark and light spots. There's a light streak directly underneath the door knob maybe an inch wide and 8" or 10" inches long where you took more stain off. Professional painter does not wipe stain back like that. They brush it out neatly with natural China Bristle Brush. Even better is a China bristle Ox Hair blend brush. If the stain is too dark a painter will get a lighter shade or in the case of your penetrating stain they mix it with natural penetrating stain keeping track of the formula. I will get a shot glass or some little small cup like this and I will mix it say one part the one part and see what it looks like and go from there it may be two to one three to one in whichever order it needs to be, lighter or darker once I get that I can make a thousand gallons. With the gel stain I realize it's going to be harder to brush and not wipe it back. I've always been able to use regular penetrating stain right over an existing finish but what I do is I prime it that is if it's been painted with a flat oil primer tinted the color of bare wood. Then I put regular penetrating stain over the primer. In the case of something like you have where you still want the grain to show through I can still use penetrating stain over it. I just push it up there real quickly and brush it out neatly using a dry brush, one that I've kicked the excess stain out of, brush the stain out neatly and it will look good. The gel stain might be easier for novice. You want the color a little bit darker and you're using black stain which forces you to have to wipe it off because it's way too dark. Then it wipes off unevenly which is not your fault. Whenever you wipe stain back especially when applied over an existing finish it is not going to wipe back evenly like it would over bare wood. There's nothing you're going to be able to do about it. Stain will almost always wipe back unevenly when applied over in existing finish. What you need to do is get a much lighter color and brush a very thin coat over it neatly with the hardware removed. Then take your brush and brush it out on something like a piece of cardboard getting as much of the stain off as you can. When your brush stops leaving stain on your cardboard you take your brush and go over the door evening it out whilst the gel or penetrating stain it's still with enough to move around with your dry brush. Let it dry completely overnight if it's humid you may need to let it dry 2 days because you're staining over an existing finish. When you brush a coat of varnish over your stain if it's not 110% dry the varnish will soften it up enough to where it will move around making it look uneven and blotchy. You do not have to worry about this nearly as much when you're standing over a brand new piece of bare wood because with either penetrating or gel stain the majority of it absorbs into the surface of the wood.
what little bit is drying on the top is absorbed into the wood and you don't have to worry about it moving. You have to worry about this when you're doing something like a fiberglass door as well because the stain doesn't penetrate into the surface. I'm not trying to put you down or make fun of your work I'm only trying to give you constructive criticism and tell you how to do this correctly. The problem is your application method and leaving the hardware on the door. The way you're going about it it's always going to come out blotchy and uneven with a dark ring around the door knob and/or hardware on the door. I couldn't do it any differently if I was doing it the way you're doing it. When you're going over an existing finish it helps to take 220 sandpaper and lightly sand it this gives you a mechanical bond. A slight roughness of your surface makes the gel stain or especially the penetrating stain grip evenly to the surface you're staining preventing a lot of what I see in the video. I sincerely hope what I've said helps you good luck in all your future endeavors.
God Bless You and Yourn!!
Jimmy in NC...
I read our long instruction, and am taking notes. Wish you would give link to your own channel and teach how to stain over stain with penetrating stain. Thanks.
Okay Jimmy, I want you to show me what you all just said, i need all the help I can get. Do a video, please.
Does it have to be a wood finish?
What about a veneer
Hi, why didn’t you take off the door handles?
Wondering if taping up the windows/glass is necessary is a person is not experiened with using stains
Taping off is helpful if you don't work with stains and paint that often. It gives a cleaner finish and confidence that you don't have to be quite so careful. hehe. ;)
Can you use paint thinner instead of the denatured alcohol?
I wouldn't as I'm not a fan of paint thinner. It leaves a greasy residue.
@@SalvagedInspirations thanks for the advice!!
Your advice flies in the face of most people's recommendations, which are for dry brushing the stain off.
Why in the world you didn't mask off the windows is beyond me!
Great video! However Dixie Bell's flat clear coat offers almost zero protection. Pretty much anything else would be better.
Would this be safe for a baby crib?
Yes, just give your crib a couple weeks for the chemicals to expel completely and cure. Then wipe it down well and you should be good to go.
❤
You seem like a sweet person but I am going to say this is whole Gel Stain DIY thing must appeal to people tolerant of streaks and blotches of color. I watched (with much amusement) a buddy applying gel stain on a single kitchen cabinet door for 20 minutes using foam brushes, bristle brushes, cloths and paper towels in hopes of getting the color even. I can't tell you how many times he wiped it all off and started over and you could still see a light spot wherever he started and stopped each stroke despite trying to feather it out.
I wiped that gel stain crap off with mineral spirits and sprayed the door with rattle can Mohawk/Behlens Lacquer-Toner and got a furniture quality color and finish in about a minute and it was dry to the touch in under ten minutes. On French doors, I didn't even mask the glass. After spraying, you can scrape the overspray off the glass with a box cutter blade or scraper much faster and more accurately than you can ever mask. You will get professional results.
As far as lacquer compatibility over other finishes, you won't lift the underlying finish as long as it's hard and not just freshly painted with plain varnish or enamel. If the finish is hard and sound, just build the color up with multiple light "dry-mist" coats and don't flood the piece with a wet coat. If in doubt, give it a quick spray with clear Bulllseye Shellac (aerosol can) first, let it dry and then spray the lacquer toner. The shellac is compatible with any type of finish and dries in under a half and hour and is also great for sealing drywall repairs before applying the spackle (keeps the wallboard paper from swelling and requiring multiple spackle coats to level it) and after sanding to make your paint adhere to the spackle.
And for Christsake, if you want a solid color don't use a stain! Just buy a can of your desired color in a satin enamel, wipe down with mineral spirits and spray it.
Does the Mohawk/ Behlens product darken an existing finish? I had cabinets made. The contractor not only did not match the color I wanted, but used a water base poly which will not amber as an oil base would.
Never fails, videos with load background sound make it hard to follow spoken dialog.😵💫
Remove the door handle next time. It is easier to work and, in this case, a chance to update.
Great tip Ty!
50/50 alcohol and what??
I’d never apply and wipe it right away, everything needs time to set. If you’re happy with the way coat looks leave it
Lose the music !!
All by myself saying at least take the door handles off….maybe I need a bit of therapy!
Great tutorial, awful music!