Enjoying these a lot mate keep em coming, if anything's good to take from ruining your bearings, I've learned something to keep an eye out for when I do mine so cheers for the heads up helping others out! I have an m50b25 iron block but think keeping it aluminium is the best way if you can get away with it and aren't going mad power. Best of luck looking forwards to the rest of the build
Regarding the block threads pulling out, we did some testing some years ago after having that exact problem with head bolts in m52 blocks that we hadn't encountered with the m50 blocks. We concluded, as you probably intuitively already suspect, it is the rotating action of the bolt thread within the block thread under increasing pressure that causes damage to the block thread. iirc you have the arp stud and nuts which both eradicate the turning motion from within the block thread and also applies equal pressure to the threads due to full thread engagement of the stud within the block. We still use bolts in m50's for road cars but only stud and nuts in m52's. Just a heads up, we often put the lump back in the car before final torque because the engine stand can move even with 2 guys holding it. And when time allows we wait 24 hours between torque sequences to allow the studs or bolts to stretch. I'm sure someone will disagree with what I have said and make some intelligent comment such as "don't buy those arp studs they're shite" but hey, what would I know.
That's some great info there. Thank you for your input and thanks for taking the time. The next video to come will venture towards the head bolt fitting and will have some good info in it hopefully. 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic just a side note on use of the m50 block, I weighed the m50 and m52 blocks and, although I don't remember what the exact weights were, the m50 block was 23kg (50lbs) heavier than the m52. While making for a more robust engine with possibly improved longevity it obviously adds no extra performance coupled with the downside of extra weight on the nose affecting handling at speed. The FI guys love them but for normal road use I prefer the lighter block. When my current build is finished I'm going to do one last build with m50 block, stroker and 86mm wiseco pistons to give around 3.2lt which is where the m50 block comes into its own. Concerning your minor indiscretion with the bearing, if I had £1 for every time I dropped a circlip somewhere critical or took a lump out of something because my ratchet slipped, I would have enough money to pay someone who knew what they were doing. Keep up the good work, don't be too hard on yourself. You are a very likeable guy who comes across well on camera and I think everyone following this is wishing you every success. I, for one, applaud your efforts and it's great to see the trials and tribulations involved in these types of projects are universal. I feel your pain! But if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.
A tip is when taping or chasing threads where you don't want chips, keep clean grease on the tool. It will keep the chips on the tool and minimal in the work area.
Once again great video.So sorry you had those little mistakes . I think most of us who mess around have the occasional whoops. Once the engine is singing it's beautiful noise you will forget this pain. Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble with this video.It is very valuable to me.
Was worried about the exact same head thread problem on my 380 000km aluminium block. Bought an iron block from an e34 525i and having it cleaned and decked at machine shop. Running ARP head studs (turbo application), hence going with the iron block. More clamping force.
Oh man, I feel that frustration with you, this shit happened to me too and not once. Keep your head up, Making mistakes is a must to make a progress! (Even it's sometimes rather pricy …)
If you ever damage alluminum threads look into timeserts. You can repair the block. Look up pazi88 on UA-cam. He has English subtitles. He also did the sameish build as you and went turbo.
keep working hard and heads up pamo you live and you learn im atm doing m50 stroker turbo bulid my self its hard work but better safe than sorry in the end. like watch you videos keep going strong dear Alex from Denmark
So the M54 bolt was already used (possibly stretched), during the test it was torqued to specs and it was expected to get stretched again? I think I missed something here
Hi Pamo, thanks for the detailed stroker build videos. I just bought the M54 internals for my M50B25 and I hear a lot about the dangers of the ridges in the top of the cilinders. (The M54 compression ring ends higher at TDC than the old M50/M52 compression ring and goes into the 'unweared' part of the cilinder) Did you have these ridges in your M52 block, if so, how did you remove them? Thanks!
I'm believe the ridge is more common with the m50 steel block, I assume its a bore wear thing but my m50 didn't have an issue, neither did my m52 (as you'll have seen that alu block had bigger issues). My engine has done 16k now and still runs fine.
@@ManSeeksCivic That's good to hear. I still have to open my M50, so I'm hoping for the best. Don't want to sell another kidney to be able to machine the block for oversized pistons.
@@ManSeeksCivic You're welcome mate! I've gotta be the only person to ever snap one in 2 places like that haha. Even my mate the breaker has never seen that before lol!
As this is a stroker build, various ways of doing this process, and you’ve used various bottom end components from two various engines rather than using the complete bottom end running gear from the donor then there’s obviously going to be a balance issue once this engine is built, how are you intending to sort that? Also, I wouldn’t pay too much attention to BigBoost, he’s a clown!
Enjoying these a lot mate keep em coming, if anything's good to take from ruining your bearings, I've learned something to keep an eye out for when I do mine so cheers for the heads up helping others out! I have an m50b25 iron block but think keeping it aluminium is the best way if you can get away with it and aren't going mad power. Best of luck looking forwards to the rest of the build
Regarding the block threads pulling out, we did some testing some years ago after having that exact problem with head bolts in m52 blocks that we hadn't encountered with the m50 blocks. We concluded, as you probably intuitively already suspect, it is the rotating action of the bolt thread within the block thread under increasing pressure that causes damage to the block thread. iirc you have the arp stud and nuts which both eradicate the turning motion from within the block thread and also applies equal pressure to the threads due to full thread engagement of the stud within the block. We still use bolts in m50's for road cars but only stud and nuts in m52's.
Just a heads up, we often put the lump back in the car before final torque because the engine stand can move even with 2 guys holding it. And when time allows we wait 24 hours between torque sequences to allow the studs or bolts to stretch.
I'm sure someone will disagree with what I have said and make some intelligent comment such as "don't buy those arp studs they're shite" but hey, what would I know.
That's some great info there. Thank you for your input and thanks for taking the time. The next video to come will venture towards the head bolt fitting and will have some good info in it hopefully. 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic just a side note on use of the m50 block, I weighed the m50 and m52 blocks and, although I don't remember what the exact weights were, the m50 block was 23kg (50lbs) heavier than the m52. While making for a more robust engine with possibly improved longevity it obviously adds no extra performance coupled with the downside of extra weight on the nose affecting handling at speed. The FI guys love them but for normal road use I prefer the lighter block. When my current build is finished I'm going to do one last build with m50 block, stroker and 86mm wiseco pistons to give around 3.2lt which is where the m50 block comes into its own.
Concerning your minor indiscretion with the bearing, if I had £1 for every time I dropped a circlip somewhere critical or took a lump out of something because my ratchet slipped, I would have enough money to pay someone who knew what they were doing. Keep up the good work, don't be too hard on yourself. You are a very likeable guy who comes across well on camera and I think everyone following this is wishing you every success. I, for one, applaud your efforts and it's great to see the trials and tribulations involved in these types of projects are universal. I feel your pain! But if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.
A tip is when taping or chasing threads where you don't want chips, keep clean grease on the tool. It will keep the chips on the tool and minimal in the work area.
Enjoying the channel m8
I love that Alberto's copper spray gasket trick has spread, I'd honestly not heard anyone else doing it until he did.
Seems like good stuff. Time will tell 🤔
@@ManSeeksCivic hope so too! Enjoying the videos as always bud :)
Once again great video.So sorry you had those little mistakes . I think most of us who mess around have the occasional whoops. Once the engine is singing it's beautiful noise you will forget this pain. Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble with this video.It is very valuable to me.
Thanks again for the kind comments Richard. It's all valuable learning and hopefully I don't make the same mistake twice 🤞
Was worried about the exact same head thread problem on my 380 000km aluminium block. Bought an iron block from an e34 525i and having it cleaned and decked at machine shop. Running ARP head studs (turbo application), hence going with the iron block. More clamping force.
Arp - no messing about. So many years of supremacy in the industry. Good luck with the turbo 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic Thanks. Conversion is done, made 265kw and 460kw at 0.8 bar, but got rodknock.
Oh man, I feel that frustration with you, this shit happened to me too and not once. Keep your head up, Making mistakes is a must to make a progress! (Even it's sometimes rather pricy …)
If you ever damage alluminum threads look into timeserts. You can repair the block. Look up pazi88 on UA-cam. He has English subtitles. He also did the sameish build as you and went turbo.
keep working hard and heads up pamo you live and you learn im atm doing m50 stroker turbo bulid my self its hard work but better safe than sorry in the end. like watch you videos keep going strong dear Alex from Denmark
Thank you and good luck to you sir.
So the M54 bolt was already used (possibly stretched), during the test it was torqued to specs and it was expected to get stretched again? I think I missed something here
What about compression.i want to build the same engine
Roughly 10.5:1. Stock comp ratio basically.
Hi Pamo, thanks for the detailed stroker build videos. I just bought the M54 internals for my M50B25 and I hear a lot about the dangers of the ridges in the top of the cilinders. (The M54 compression ring ends higher at TDC than the old M50/M52 compression ring and goes into the 'unweared' part of the cilinder) Did you have these ridges in your M52 block, if so, how did you remove them? Thanks!
I'm believe the ridge is more common with the m50 steel block, I assume its a bore wear thing but my m50 didn't have an issue, neither did my m52 (as you'll have seen that alu block had bigger issues). My engine has done 16k now and still runs fine.
@@ManSeeksCivic That's good to hear. I still have to open my M50, so I'm hoping for the best. Don't want to sell another kidney to be able to machine the block for oversized pistons.
Good luck sir.
THE best door handle engineer in the south ;) haha
Thanks mate
@@ManSeeksCivic You're welcome mate! I've gotta be the only person to ever snap one in 2 places like that haha. Even my mate the breaker has never seen that before lol!
Bloody hell pamo 😂
When did you film this you have shorts on and it’s bloody freezing at the moment pamo 😂😂😂
A couple of weeks ago. I'm Scottish but not hardy enough anymore 😂
I love the fact that in your accent when you say "AlbertoBigBoost" it sounds like "AlbertoBigBUSH" hahaha
As this is a stroker build, various ways of doing this process, and you’ve used various bottom end components from two various engines rather than using the complete bottom end running gear from the donor then there’s obviously going to be a balance issue once this engine is built, how are you intending to sort that? Also, I wouldn’t pay too much attention to BigBoost, he’s a clown!
The whole rotating assembly is m54b30. As for Alberto... Opinions are welcome.
Better to be safe with a new box of bearings
He who made no mistakes made nothing