Great video, never heard of thev4 way joint clamp before. Ive seen numerous wires burn through before when i twist them on so definitely going to try this out. Thanks very much
We use plain soft wire and wrap around live then through homemade insulator (scrap of polypipe wrapped tightly by tie wire) on the neutral wire and so on...save hundreds, if not thousands over time.
Yes to return earth. The earth stakes should be a minimum 4m apart if steel, 10 for super earth kits. Further apart is fine, just not closer. Earth stakes along the fence are ok and improve the earth return but should be in addition to the earths attached to the energiser.
I found a dead Wallaby lying under my 12mm poly tape off a medium size Thunderbird Energizer. There was nothing to suggest why it died right there other than getting zapped. My Shetlands and I (!) get regularly zapped with no ill-effects. Is this a common occurrence?
I love your content but I've walked away from this method. Absolutely cannot agree here. From my own experience I found it leaks a considerable amount onto the steel upright; even when using double insulated underground wire. Leakage becomes a major issue when its next to an all metal gateway. Zap and beach about it. You could build this thing elsewhere but you should aggregate all your wires at gateways to keep the voltage up. Besides no where is better for accessibility than gateways. So at a spot like shown in the video, I'd run it straight across horizontally, if both Left and Right are to be electrified. That's faster and easier etc. My approach is build box assemblies at gateways, do not do like at @1:15 because it could compress further and pinch. Instead, build it further inside the brace by just a dozen inches. Take one length of insulated wire, 'S' bend it down one side of the highvoltage wires, then 'S bend another on the low voltage wire. Masterfully cut and slice off the insulation where needed, and gently wrap onto the wire. Keep the gentle curves of 'S' shape going, flattening where it meets the line wires. On each line wire use cheaper aluminum line clamps on the wraps for surety, and on the ends of the insulated wire do the same but add a 90degree turn to ensure it cant pull out. Its fun to build, cheaper, pinch safe, and just as easy and quick to tension the main run on an 8 wire exclusion fence too. If its all one voltage, its the GOAT.
Nice. You should get Noel on for more videos. Explains things well and obviously knows his stuff.
Great video, never heard of thev4 way joint clamp before. Ive seen numerous wires burn through before when i twist them on so definitely going to try this out. Thanks very much
Excellent demonstration. I have saved this so I can refer to it when I build my electric fence.
Exilent video. Thanks
Good morning, Tim, brilliant video, I learnt heaps, Cheers.
Brilliant tutorial. Plus, mind reading, as this is my next challenge to keep Skywalker in. 👏💐
As always awesome vid gents job well done and done well 😊😊
Great video lots of good information about electric fencing 👍
Always bring wire in from top stops moisture running up wire
We use plain soft wire and wrap around live then through homemade insulator (scrap of polypipe wrapped tightly by tie wire) on the neutral wire and so on...save hundreds, if not thousands over time.
Can you use a mesh fence as the return earth as well ?
Is there any benefit to put earth stakes along at differing locations of said fence?
Yes to return earth. The earth stakes should be a minimum 4m apart if steel, 10 for super earth kits. Further apart is fine, just not closer. Earth stakes along the fence are ok and improve the earth return but should be in addition to the earths attached to the energiser.
I found a dead Wallaby lying under my 12mm poly tape off a medium size Thunderbird Energizer.
There was nothing to suggest why it died right there other than getting zapped.
My Shetlands and I (!) get regularly zapped with no ill-effects.
Is this a common occurrence?
No it’s not
I love your content but I've walked away from this method. Absolutely cannot agree here. From my own experience I found it leaks a considerable amount onto the steel upright; even when using double insulated underground wire. Leakage becomes a major issue when its next to an all metal gateway. Zap and beach about it. You could build this thing elsewhere but you should aggregate all your wires at gateways to keep the voltage up. Besides no where is better for accessibility than gateways. So at a spot like shown in the video, I'd run it straight across horizontally, if both Left and Right are to be electrified. That's faster and easier etc.
My approach is build box assemblies at gateways, do not do like at @1:15 because it could compress further and pinch. Instead, build it further inside the brace by just a dozen inches. Take one length of insulated wire, 'S' bend it down one side of the highvoltage wires, then 'S bend another on the low voltage wire. Masterfully cut and slice off the insulation where needed, and gently wrap onto the wire. Keep the gentle curves of 'S' shape going, flattening where it meets the line wires. On each line wire use cheaper aluminum line clamps on the wraps for surety, and on the ends of the insulated wire do the same but add a 90degree turn to ensure it cant pull out.
Its fun to build, cheaper, pinch safe, and just as easy and quick to tension the main run on an 8 wire exclusion fence too.
If its all one voltage, its the GOAT.
Thanks for the contribution mate.
Shouldn't the top wire be an earth to protect the fence in case of lightning?
Yep. This is what the property owner wanted.
Could potentially double as a temporary 3-phase cable lol