Dude!!! Came through in the clutch tonight!!! I just saved myself a BIG headache because of this! Sweet video and thanks for giving back to our amazing community!!!
Thank you for the tips and great slides & close-ups with text. It helps to make a checklist. PS that beautiful shot with guitars on the wall is so similar to Academie Duello in Vancouver BC (only they have swords there ;), I thought "wait a sec.. where are the swords?!".. funny. I still have my film public so you can watch it and see what I meant.
Question we have a really old guitar and I am wondering if there’s another place besides the middle that older models may have it listed somewhere else and then it changed at some point to middle???
Hi Keith, great question! You likely wouldn't hear a marked difference in tone between epoxy, hide, aliphatic, etc glues. The damning factor of epoxy is its permanence. Hide glue is preferred because it provides an incredibly strong bond, but can also be released with a little heat and moisture. Epoxy has no such reversibility. So, some years down the road when more maintenance/repair is required, nothing can be done for an epoxy-repaired instrument. If the bridge plate cracks again, there is no way to replace it. If the bridge cracks again, nothing short of hand planing the bridge off can be done. I wake up in cold sweats thinking about an epoxied neck needing a reset. Unfortunately though, this was standard practice for some years and is something we need to be wary of! Thanks again for your comment!
I'm still trying to figure out who the "well-published luthier in the '70s/'80s" was who advocated using epoxy adhesives? I know that Irving Sloane acknowledged that epoxy bonds were very strong, but I believe he recommended animal glues, Weldwood, or Titebond for most tasks.
I think this term is relative to how expensive these instruments can be and how expensive repairs can be. If it's a crack that can be repaired for 1-2 labor hours and leaves little to no indication that it was ever there and also doesn't effect the tone or playability, than it won't affect the value "much." This "not much" could be a few hundred dollars on a $10-40k guitar, which relative to the cost isn't much. This is compared to issues with the neck, bracing, or other structural issues that will affect the tone, appearance, or playability. Those issues could greatly reduce the value as the instrument will never really be "original" and the cost of repair can be $$$.
I bought a new all koa 1,400$ Takamine acoustic about ten years ago, Played it for about 2 months and an amp fell right on the bridge... It broke the bracing on the top right under the bridge. I was so bummed out I just put it away and tried to forget about it. Ten years later I still have no clue how to fix it the right way since the brace is on the top so I made a shim for it and ran an indicator across the top until my shim made the top flat again (within .010) It plays and sounds like new! I just hope the shim stays put, Lol. Thanks for the video bro 🎸🎸👍 Any ideas on a permanent fix? Thanks again...... Mike(Whitey).
Great video I don't know anything about guitars but was looking to buy one as a gift. Very helpful.
Dude!!! Came through in the clutch tonight!!! I just saved myself a BIG headache because of this! Sweet video and thanks for giving back to our amazing community!!!
informative, concise, and stylish - awesome video, more please!
Great, and very informative video.! Thank you
Thanks for those excellent tips.
Thank you for the tips and great slides & close-ups with text. It helps to make a checklist.
PS that beautiful shot with guitars on the wall is so similar to Academie Duello in Vancouver BC (only they have swords there ;), I thought "wait a sec.. where are the swords?!".. funny.
I still have my film public so you can watch it and see what I meant.
Great, helpful stuff thanks. More tips please.
Thank you for watching!
Bluegrass action! ahahahah. thanks so much. Keep up the good works folks!
Best content out there. You guys kick ass
Superb video, thanks a lot for sharing the guitar wisdom!
I like this kind of videos keep them coming 😎
Thank you for watching!
This video is super helpful. Thanks.
Very important information.
Question we have a really old guitar and I am wondering if there’s another place besides the middle that older models may have it listed somewhere else and then it changed at some point to middle???
When you say epoxy ruins guitars, exactly what does it do to them? Does it affect their tone?
Hi Keith, great question! You likely wouldn't hear a marked difference in tone between epoxy, hide, aliphatic, etc glues. The damning factor of epoxy is its permanence. Hide glue is preferred because it provides an incredibly strong bond, but can also be released with a little heat and moisture. Epoxy has no such reversibility. So, some years down the road when more maintenance/repair is required, nothing can be done for an epoxy-repaired instrument. If the bridge plate cracks again, there is no way to replace it. If the bridge cracks again, nothing short of hand planing the bridge off can be done. I wake up in cold sweats thinking about an epoxied neck needing a reset. Unfortunately though, this was standard practice for some years and is something we need to be wary of! Thanks again for your comment!
Thanks for the reply!
In the case you need a neck reset in x amount of years down the line, it would be alot of extra work for the luthier to take the neck off with epoxy.
1970 Martin 00 guitar, never had a neck reset, medium action as per seller. Would this need a neck reset and what happens if I dont get one
I'm still trying to figure out who the "well-published luthier in the '70s/'80s" was who advocated using epoxy adhesives? I know that Irving Sloane acknowledged that epoxy bonds were very strong, but I believe he recommended animal glues, Weldwood, or Titebond for most tasks.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the info, great video.
How come cracks don’t change the value much?
I think this term is relative to how expensive these instruments can be and how expensive repairs can be. If it's a crack that can be repaired for 1-2 labor hours and leaves little to no indication that it was ever there and also doesn't effect the tone or playability, than it won't affect the value "much." This "not much" could be a few hundred dollars on a $10-40k guitar, which relative to the cost isn't much.
This is compared to issues with the neck, bracing, or other structural issues that will affect the tone, appearance, or playability. Those issues could greatly reduce the value as the instrument will never really be "original" and the cost of repair can be $$$.
Love these 'instructional-type' (for want of a more succinct adjective) videos
"Instructional" would be an appropriate adjective, no?
What about the headstock? What if thats angled a little bit down on the low E string?
I bought a new all koa 1,400$ Takamine acoustic about ten years ago, Played it for about 2 months and an amp fell right on the bridge... It broke the bracing on the top right under the bridge. I was so bummed out I just put it away and tried to forget about it. Ten years later I still have no clue how to fix it the right way since the brace is on the top so I made a shim for it and ran an indicator across the top until my shim made the top flat again (within .010) It plays and sounds like new! I just hope the shim stays put, Lol. Thanks for the video bro 🎸🎸👍 Any ideas on a permanent fix? Thanks again...... Mike(Whitey).
plenty of wiseass sellers unload there junker fixer uppers. Ive heard that quite a few times that this guitar has bluegrass slide action!
Thanks Great video
Thanks!
Thanks.
Stop tempting me to buy a vintage Martin tenor! ^^
...a solid body, pickups, an output jack...
Thanks