This was good but would be nice to show more about the actual wiring from light to light. It seems he laid 1 main wire that travels from transformer, but where did that 1 wire run to, and how are a series of lights connected. Does the wire from the transformer just run to the first light input, and then an output wire from the 1st light runs to the 2nd light, and so on ??? Please explain this.
Hey Wayne 2:53 he attaches the light’s wiring to the feed wire for one side of the brass connector. The other side of the brass connector is then the “out” wire going to the next light.
This is long awaited. They did make a landscape lighting video before but it was really old video. Also I have never seen a 5 dollar path light or spotlight fixture (Except for the plastic ones)
I do installations professionally and one important future proof trick you forgot is using landscaping u-staples to secure the wire in place. Over time, weather makes solid expand and contract and if you just put it directly in the ground that wire will make its way up, especially if you put it in above weed barrier where it wouldn’t be secure. Heat shrinking tubes are decent, but I have never had an installation get water in the system using dielectric grease fittings. Make sure to get appropriate sizes based on home many splices are in one connection. If running long distances, make sure you get proper gauges of wires and run separate home run lines.
@@mcgarbagenuggets8793 Arizona weather and the Midwest weather is vastly different. We get a ton of rain and snow, which leads to soil expansion. When that happens, even a buried wire can rise up over time.
Not if it’s up to code (6 inches to the top) depends on your stats though . Should be buried at least 10 inches. U staples can be a hazard . Children or animals could step on them if they get unsettled . U staples is for stapling landscape fabric . That’s it.
I do lights too . Not knocking your style but you should check the code. Good Heat shrinks are the highest quality connector (most durable , best connection , most waterproof ) the best heat shrinks is “ lighting shrink “ fxl sells them and they come with there water lights because it is so good at keeping out water even more than silicone nuts , but there expensive . Only necessary for a water light.
Very interesting connection method. This seems way more reliable than those "easy" connectors that you press together to pierce the wire which inevitably lets moisture in and corrode the connection. The heat shrink tubing with adhesive inside indeed the best thing to use. You should also use some dialectic grease inside the brass barrel connector to further mitigate water ingress and corrosion. I personally ripped all mine out and soldered everything together then heat shrink.
Dialectic grease would definitely help with it. I would use heat shrink tubing with silicone grease to waterproof the whole thing. If you do all of those things, the connections should be as safe as can be from what I can tell.
Wire nuts with dielectric grease work just as well and let you easily remove the fixture when it's time to replace or repair it. In my experience, the biggest source of a disconnection is either a landscaper hitting the wire with a shovel or an animal chewing the wire. I agree that those snap on connectors are terrible.
So right off the bat I am 4 mins into this video and he really didn't show us how he connected all the wires to the lights or connected all the lights together and with the terminal, he didn't show us how it connects to the power source.
He literally showed you how to do both, if you didn’t get that you shouldn’t be doing this yourself. I hate when people say what I just said but in this case I feel like I’m justified.
I see you. He shows the connection for the light to the power source, but that wire runs to the end. So if this is the last light in the chain, then this is correct, but how about the splices in the middle to add the other lights? There would be 3 wires in each connection....light, power in, power out to next light in the chain.
The problem with an integrated LED pathway light is that when the LED burns out, the entire pathway light needs to be replaced. It's not like you can just replace the LED. Seems ridiculous. I know they may claim 50,000 hr operation, but that has not been my experience.
This video is a hack jobs way of doing this Solder and heat shrink is the best way to do it and builds skill and knowledge not to mention significantly cheaper If you’re going with these expensive brass connectors he should be using wire ferrules, screwing down directly on stranded wire will cause a failure point Then heating the heat shrink with a torch, instead of a proper heat gun Shameful
You skipped the most important information. Wattage and wire length are pretty important for calculating wire gauge and transformer size. Basically, this video is worthless...
> It has adhesive inside and it's never going to be a point of failure You might as well also install fire alarm right next to it even though it's just low voltage while you are at it.. Like seriously what's so difficult in getting silicone paste or worst case scenario fill that up with crazy glue if you have to use heatshrink "with adhesive" outdoors..
I do landscape lighting and I am the lebron james of landscape lighting. I am the fastest installer in the entire world that I know about , and in my opinion my lighting designs are among the best. If anyone is interested in landscape lighting at there property I would be happy to share some of my work, or if anyone has any questions about a installation , maintaining your system , product advice , or anything else to do with landscape lighting leave a comment and I’d be happy to provide my email address. The high end systems I install can range from $2,500~ for a very small system with basic functionality and fixtures to upwards of $100,000 for a large high end system with all the features such as zoning , dimming , and color changing. I am passionate about my work, and very proud of the beautiful outdoor living spaces I have had the chance complete. If anyone needs any advice for installing a system yourself or would like the highest quality system installation possible by me , please leave a comment with your email or I can provide mine. I install anywhere in the continental USA.
This was good but would be nice to show more about the actual wiring from light to light. It seems he laid 1 main wire that travels from transformer, but where did that 1 wire run to, and how are a series of lights connected.
Does the wire from the transformer just run to the first light input, and then an output wire from the 1st light runs to the 2nd light, and so on ???
Please explain this.
Hey Wayne 2:53 he attaches the light’s wiring to the feed wire for one side of the brass connector. The other side of the brass connector is then the “out” wire going to the next light.
thanks, this really helps a lot. I just had my landscape light in my backyard, the technician made terrible connections, once raining start, no light
What about long runs with multiple lights on one wire? How do you connect those?
This is long awaited. They did make a landscape lighting video before but it was really old video. Also I have never seen a 5 dollar path light or spotlight fixture (Except for the plastic ones)
Wow you made that a lot more simple than I thought it was going to be ty! Will be attempting this next spring
He reminds me of roger!!! I miss roger... hope he's doing good...
RIP 😢
Really??? Whenn???@@smshh33
I learn a lot of things from this vedio, thanks
I do installations professionally and one important future proof trick you forgot is using landscaping u-staples to secure the wire in place. Over time, weather makes solid expand and contract and if you just put it directly in the ground that wire will make its way up, especially if you put it in above weed barrier where it wouldn’t be secure.
Heat shrinking tubes are decent, but I have never had an installation get water in the system using dielectric grease fittings. Make sure to get appropriate sizes based on home many splices are in one connection. If running long distances, make sure you get proper gauges of wires and run separate home run lines.
Here in Arizona we bury the wire
@@mcgarbagenuggets8793 Arizona weather and the Midwest weather is vastly different. We get a ton of rain and snow, which leads to soil expansion. When that happens, even a buried wire can rise up over time.
Not if it’s up to code (6 inches to the top) depends on your stats though . Should be buried at least 10 inches. U staples can be a hazard . Children or animals could step on them if they get unsettled . U staples is for stapling landscape fabric . That’s it.
You should not run it above the weed barrier . That’s job security though ! Plenty of maintenance
I do lights too . Not knocking your style but you should check the code. Good Heat shrinks are the highest quality connector (most durable , best connection , most waterproof ) the best heat shrinks is “ lighting shrink “ fxl sells them and they come with there water lights because it is so good at keeping out water even more than silicone nuts , but there expensive . Only necessary for a water light.
I'm really impressed with this video! Great job! Great tips.
Leaving Slack in the wire is wise! The next Homeowner will thank you!
I love this! Thank you THIS OLD HOUSE! I wish I could meet you all.
What color light would you recomen for stone wall skirting? Warm or white?
You said there's a glue inside the heat shrink. The heat shrink itself or some additional element that creates additional sealing properties ?
Very interesting connection method. This seems way more reliable than those "easy" connectors that you press together to pierce the wire which inevitably lets moisture in and corrode the connection. The heat shrink tubing with adhesive inside indeed the best thing to use. You should also use some dialectic grease inside the brass barrel connector to further mitigate water ingress and corrosion.
I personally ripped all mine out and soldered everything together then heat shrink.
Dialectic grease would definitely help with it. I would use heat shrink tubing with silicone grease to waterproof the whole thing. If you do all of those things, the connections should be as safe as can be from what I can tell.
the pierce connections are easy but yeah they don't last terribly long.
Wire nuts with dielectric grease work just as well and let you easily remove the fixture when it's time to replace or repair it. In my experience, the biggest source of a disconnection is either a landscaper hitting the wire with a shovel or an animal chewing the wire. I agree that those snap on connectors are terrible.
hi what brand of lights are you using they look amazing
Direct burial Wirenuts will make the job go much faster
What brand is that and where can i get those?
Thank you
That look beautiful
What size brass barrel connector 0.8 or 1.0
You need to list the product s you use. Light and connectors and electrical box with components.
Why is there a step in the middle of the paver walkway in the first place?
Thank you for sharing
Would like to see more of the end product.
THANKS !!!
At 2:52 I'm amazed he's not using his lineman pliers
lol right
Ya, after a few … that’s gonna leave a mark! Ouch.
Error at 1:46 this is AC low voltage so hot and neutral not positive like DC.
nice
Just like the cheaper solar lamps, after a few weeks they start to tilt. How to prevent that?
Get like a 2 liter bottle and cut it half way and fill it with portland cement and stick the light in there and prop it up. Bury it when it hardens.
@@kangkim150 quite a smart idea. Ty
Throw it away 👏
2:27 i wouldn't say never. Any connection point is a potential point of failure. Very unlikely but still.
сечение провода можно и поменьше взять, для лампочек многовато на лицо переплата
Thumbnail told me to come see him at the plaza hotel
So right off the bat I am 4 mins into this video and he really didn't show us how he connected all the wires to the lights or connected all the lights together and with the terminal, he didn't show us how it connects to the power source.
Actually he did. That’s what the brass screw in connectors with the heat shrink is doing.
You have to use a voltage transformer.
He literally showed you how to do both, if you didn’t get that you shouldn’t be doing this yourself. I hate when people say what I just said but in this case I feel like I’m justified.
You have to watch the whole video. Transformer is at the end
I see you. He shows the connection for the light to the power source, but that wire runs to the end. So if this is the last light in the chain, then this is correct, but how about the splices in the middle to add the other lights? There would be 3 wires in each connection....light, power in, power out to next light in the chain.
The problem with an integrated LED pathway light is that when the LED burns out, the entire pathway light needs to be replaced. It's not like you can just replace the LED. Seems ridiculous. I know they may claim 50,000 hr operation, but that has not been my experience.
This video is a hack jobs way of doing this
Solder and heat shrink is the best way to do it and builds skill and knowledge not to mention significantly cheaper
If you’re going with these expensive brass connectors he should be using wire ferrules, screwing down directly on stranded wire will cause a failure point
Then heating the heat shrink with a torch, instead of a proper heat gun
Shameful
Not a good video, it was not explained how you did all the wiring from light to light, which wire goes to what.
＆
1。
Guys be careful with these I found a c4 planted in mine
You skipped the most important information. Wattage and wire length are pretty important for calculating wire gauge and transformer size. Basically, this video is worthless...
Cut the distracting, annoying music off! Thanks
Omg this is soooo complicated
> It has adhesive inside and it's never going to be a point of failure
You might as well also install fire alarm right next to it even though it's just low voltage while you are at it..
Like seriously what's so difficult in getting silicone paste or worst case scenario fill that up with crazy glue if you have to use heatshrink "with adhesive" outdoors..
Install a fire alarm outside? If your talking about commercial fire alarms, you only wire them to a FA control panel, not to a lighting transformer.
Skipped the part where you show the apprentice’s how to run the conduit up into the box……
I do landscape lighting and I am the lebron james of landscape lighting. I am the fastest installer in the entire world that I know about , and in my opinion my lighting designs are among the best. If anyone is interested in landscape lighting at there property I would be happy to share some of my work, or if anyone has any questions about a installation , maintaining your system , product advice , or anything else to do with landscape lighting leave a comment and I’d be happy to provide my email address. The high end systems I install can range from $2,500~ for a very small system with basic functionality and fixtures to upwards of $100,000 for a large high end system with all the features such as zoning , dimming , and color changing. I am passionate about my work, and very proud of the beautiful outdoor living spaces I have had the chance complete. If anyone needs any advice for installing a system yourself or would like the highest quality system installation possible by me , please leave a comment with your email or I can provide mine. I install anywhere in the continental USA.