The entrance disks shown in the video, our favorite hivetool, favorite books, and all kinds of other beekeeping tools & equipment that we like and use from Amazon can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/tennessees-bees
Many newbies out there won't have the strong colonies you do, so thanks for taking the time and trouble to show us how to save bees in cases like these. Your videos are really helpful, informative and appreciated!
Kamon. Wish I saw your videos sooner. So informative. I’m in upstate NY and so far been lucky with the mites. We know you wouldn't normally baby a hive but we all appreciate the information you provide in helping us small beekeepers. Thanks for all you guys do.
Thanks for the video! I personally can’t see too many Kamon & Laurel bee videos (Kathleen & Jimmy too)! Really and truly I’m soaking up everything that I can learn from you.
Hi Kamon, just felt the need to say how appreciative we are for all the time you take to shoot these helpful videos. All your stuff has been a COLOSSAL BLESSING to us down here in Blairsville Ga. KNOWING how much time it takes and your AND MRS. Kamon' WILLINGNESS to do so SPEAKS VOLUMES BOUT Y'ALL'S CHARACTER, HEARTS AND SOULS! Can ASSURE you that just behind, next to and sometimes right in front of every good man is a 10 fold BETTER GIRL!!! Speaking with 34 Valentine's days experience under my belt! 😍♥️👊💯 And I THANK GOD FOR HER MULTIPLE TIMES DAILY! 🙌🙌🙌
Watching your videos and getting ready for some spring bees built 4 boxes yesterday off your planes and turned out pretty well for a none carpenter. Thanks for all the info and good luck with the bees.🐝🐝🐝
I just got done making six nucs using your measurements from your other video. They turned out great . Also made 3 swarm trap boxes the same way but deeper . I sure would love to get some of your old frames from you to use in my swarm boxes . Thanks for the idea on the boxes .
That colony is looking pretty small so definitely a good idea to put them in a nuc box. And the mites are definitely a problem and you can't just assume because you treated your bees that took care of the problem as your experiment has clearly shown. Good information as always my friend thanks for sharing.
Do those checks after treating. I struggled all last year with mites. Used Apivar on new packages, Apiguard in July, five rounds of Oxalic Acid in August. In November I did another Oxalic Acid sublimation (vapor) and dropped between 400 and 1000 mites. No matter what I did last year mites just kept coming and coming. I monitored and knew more treatments had to be done. This spring I'll be drone trapping (as I've done years ago) to knock down the mites. I just can't believe my packages developed that many mites in a season. But they were there. I'm betting that beekeepers in my area aren't treating and I'm struggling with their crashing colonies. I lost fifty percent because of this. I'm hoping to check this weekend and find out if I lost more. Hoping not. Kept bees for over 20 years and never in the past three years have I had such a hard time.
your story is so close with mine ... in 2018 i was shocked to discover a big load of varroa , i think i made 5 treatments with amitraz (i have a video about it). After that i discovered that a lot of beekeepers had issues with varroa in 2018 and lots of families has died. My first reaction was to change the treatment in 2019 i never use amitraz(Apivar has amitraz ).
Not a Beekeeper but watching to learn. I did hear you say northern climate's have less mite problems. Maybe freezing frames before use would help. Just a thought.
Those spinner entrances are nice, that's what I like to use. I like to leave a porch out in front with them though. What I do is position it on the upper side with the entrance below then I staple a shim on each side and staple a porch across so that there's enough of an opening for the spinner to work behind the porch. It probably doesn't matter but bees loaded with nectar and pollen are heavy and i feel like that porch helps them be more efficient and gives them room to defend and beard if needed. I've been eyeing those small queen breeding boxes like one the shelf behind you for a couple of years but have not bothered ordering any of them until this year. Could you please do a video on using those Kamon, thanks.
Are there any variables? LOL I have a feeling you are nursing them along for our benefit. In the "commercial" world would you just cut your looses with this hive? Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
@@kamonreynolds But there are so many of us that are hobbyist and would take the time. That is whats so great about Kamon taking the time for us. Thank you Kamon.
I agree with doing an alcohol wash immediately after treatment as possibly giving an inaccurate reading. Something I’ve not considered. I washed a 1 in late Oct but did it right after treatment. In Georgia we are expecting cold weather for the next week or so. Do you see any issues with starting OA treatment during this time? With the recent warm weather I checked for Queen cells and busted up drone comb in between deeps. I saw mites. Goes to show frequent evaluation and mite checks are better than “feelings”.
Hey Kamon, you say you did Apivar and then more OAV. Did you do the OAV while you had the Apivar strips in there or after the strips came out? If they are done together, will that affect the brood/queen's ability to lay? Thanks for your knowledge!
I did oav while I had apivar. Not sure it should be done but I did t see any difference in Colony behavior. They were weak and they still are weak. More than likely that is due to the viruses and other issues that cone with varroa. Ideally such ridiculous treatment measures should be avoided.
Odd question, do you think the metal disc would get to hot for the bees if box is in sun? I've heard people claiming plastic is better for that reason. Just wondering your thoughts.
Where is the swarm trap video? It wasn't in the link. I've watched one you put out. Is there another? Thanks. Love your videos. You get to the point/s and don't drag on and on!
Kamon, in your opinion would there be anything wrong with making nuc boxes 5 1/2 frames wide so you have a little wiggle room for frames or is that too much extra bee space?
I have decided that I am going to treat at least monthly with OA. Since it dissipates, I can see very little downside. I am just east of Kansas City in the country, with massive fields around us and in late summer a 60 acre sunflower farm. I am also going to set traps soon, as we have five degrees here today!😳
My main hive took 11 OAV hits to knock the mites out. Don't just do one or two and think you got them. Up here in BC Canada this year it was bad for mites from other beeks I've talked to...
Hello Kamon , I know that your time is valuable ,but since you are emphasizing the importance of mite control , as I suggested in your last video check out Anna Kra 's video on mite control. He is from Russia and has fifty hives. He lost no hives last year. He lives in South Carolina and like you he stresses the importance of mite control. He uses the broken brood method. If you can't find the time maybe some of you subscribers will check these video's out. I found it very helpful and very educational . Hope your nuc survives . and your pollen recipe works great , thanks
What kind of bees do you have? If they are Italians they aren't very mite resistant. I was interested to see the queen on that one to see what she was.
This colony was a swarm we caught with a very dark coloration. Once the mites got way out of hand we requeened with one of our carnies and began treatment
Well you’ve got brood she was there at some point recently! Thanks again for the great work. I hope you’re close to being able to go full time beekeeping!!
I guess you’ll have to wait for another round of brood emerging before you know if it’s the queen with the viruses causing the k-wing? Or if you can treat that out?!
🇨🇦 Wow that’s a lot of mites. Would a forced swarm work ie mess up the mites cycle. Just use drawn comb and shake all bees in and get rid of any brood from original hive. Although my mindset is to not even give them drawn comb then aggressively go after mites on bees ie chemicles or sugar dusting. Give necessary food. Since female mites can live in summer up to 2 months, would have to repeat. A mite on its own will live 5 days. They hav studied Ferrell bees , they cluster smaller, multiple swarms through summer, no real issues with foulbrood or mites. Just trying to think outside box.
Got one in adicion for the sumer problems. Kamon you love football...if you make a gagat like thet pollen ecstractor on your plastic computer hive...1/3 long, no hols just a holwhey (dam english) ...can you emagin the domestic defens under...we make auars from plastic cola botals...10cm in the hive is more then inaf..Hope you see this , and my vriting?????
I put a spacer with 3 compartments two outer with pine shaving and middle for sugar brick then double bubble on top with hole in the middle same as the inner cove . Hope this helps
I do a lot of splits and end up keeping some over winter in nuc sized boxes. The important part to me doing things my way...is to have nuc-sized boxes and use them like deeps and mediums. Yeah. Even made little shims to feed and vent them. I winter double nucs that are stacked up like a regular hive only it's two colonies. In spring transition to full size then repeat the process. The quicker I empty out the doubles into full size the better because very quickly I'll need all the half-boxes and doubles for splits. Buying bees? What is that?
Too much space is just as bad as not enough space!! Meaning appropriate space for size of colony for the time of year, wheather it's a nectar flow or dearth. If it's a cold time of year tight brood nest area is better, if it's a heavy flow extra space prevents swarming, if it's a dearth less space is easier to guard.
About 7:30-7:42 in the video right side of frame midway up there looks to be a bee with K wing. I don't know how to attach a photo, I've got a screenshot...
Hi Kamon. If you think the queen is viable and no signs of America or European Foul brood. You could use the newspaper and queen excluder method and combine your weak nuc with a very strong 10 frame colony. Give the nuc a boost. I raise three queens late October last year. The nucs didnt have enough time to build enough strength for the winter. I boosted them with thre other strong colony's. I have 6 frames of brood in those weak nucs currently and it's time to split asap. I'm located in eastern NC. Happy beekeeping!
Ok. Got one for mrs. Reynolds. We are thrayin it last 4 years. This will save you $ on feeding and varoa tretmans. It will be scherry the first time. This year we will cage ol are qweens for 25 days. We are dooin it around 6. 15. it is when the rasberry starts. By then you got 9,10 or more brood frames and a big nunber of bees. By the time you relise the qweens oll brood frames 9,10 are with a honey crovn and polen and polisht wher the brood wos. When they start with the brood again they don't stop. At one time they will have the bothom fool of capt brood frames. And with some math you can time it for your sezon. Hope it will be ize to anderstend. Not my best english, to long after school...if you doo 2 hives just for the varoa experiment. It works. It is done with a cage make of a qween excluder so bees pas thru it and cary the sent around the hive. Or you can cover the qween with a similar cage on 1/4 of the frame. Then you fork the varroa out for 2,3 times...You know what i'm meen...
Hey K, finally getting my Nucs this spring for my first year! Do you recommend Apivar strips right away or should I do a wash right away and go from there?
Make absolutely certain you check the mite loads when you are done Apivar. The mites in my hives weren't effected at all last year from it. It shows me that in some areas (but not all) that mites are becoming resistant to the product. These were new packages. After the suggested time of leaving the strips in the colony, my mite counts were two per one hundred.
I know you asked K but I thought I'd chime in (who doesn't like random comments from random people). If you're buying your nuc locally from a reputable dealer ask them if/how the nuc or parent colonies were treated and what their last mite load was. Mite population increases with bee population but the ratio becomes extremely problematic in late summer when the bee population declines far more rapidly than the mites. As part of you IPM (since you only have a couple colonies) it would be good to do mite check once month after you get your bees (I would wait a month on the first check if the nuc dealer is reputable). If you don't want to do alcohol wash every month try a sugar shake but definitely do an alcohol wash in late July and again in September. A mite load of 3/100 through July is a good starting point for when to treat. After that drop to 2/100 as the load will inevitably increase rapidly. Regardless of your mite load, treat again with oxalic acid vapor on a warm November day. PS what you use for treatment through the year will vary (honey supers on? Brood? Temperature). Try looking up example IPM's and even looking for charts that dictate the best treatments for what time of year and wait periods for honey supers. And like K said, follow up. Nobody would have cancer removed and not go to their follow up appointment to see if the removal was effective; mites are like cancer to the colony, don't skip the follow-up, if it wasn't and it's late in the season mites will multiply faster than bees. I'll stop typing now 😂 Good luck with your bees!
problem with OA is that once you have the tools. it is cheap and easy, so people over use it and use it wrong. Mites are gonna eb immune to OA in a few years
@@lenoretalon9958 all due to them dang mites !! Antibiotics will kill the bacteria !!!, hate having to use anything like that, kinda like you an i havin to take meds though, sometimes its only way to get over it.
Houston, from what I have studied and experienced, OAV does not effect SHB. Like bees, they have a protected exoskeleton. Unlike VARROA DESTRUCTOR. I hope that helps. Phillip Hall
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 LOL! Yah he has a true Jewel! That is what I thought he said too! Hope she was in the sidewall of the box and not gone!
@@paulawaldrep3760 hope so too, i had a hive last yr, ever time i dug in it the queen would go to bottom board an run around down there, then i had another one that ever time i took lid off, she would come to the top of frames. I guess as long as theres lots of brood they can be wherever they want 😀🐝🐝
wouldnt risk the rest of the yard. Personally would have just killed the hive and frozen every part in it, then steamed the whole hive to kill all viruses
The entrance disks shown in the video, our favorite hivetool, favorite books, and all kinds of other beekeeping tools & equipment that we like and use from Amazon can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/tennessees-bees
Kamon do a video on starting mini nucs this summer.. I let wax moths get my Mini Combs,made me sick
I hope you realize how much your videos and information is helping many of us! You guys are very appreciated! Thank you!!!
Thanks a lot, great information on how you keep your mite control in check, cheers form Norther BC. Malvie.
Many newbies out there won't have the strong colonies you do, so thanks for taking the time and trouble to show us how to save bees in cases like these. Your videos are really helpful, informative and appreciated!
Kamon. Wish I saw your videos sooner. So informative. I’m in upstate NY and so far been lucky with the mites. We know you wouldn't normally baby a hive but we all appreciate the information you provide in helping us small beekeepers. Thanks for all you guys do.
Thanks for the video! I personally can’t see too many Kamon & Laurel bee videos (Kathleen & Jimmy too)! Really and truly I’m soaking up everything that I can learn from you.
Yup me too! :)
I've been following all along. Thanks for a morning bee fix!!
Hi Kamon, just felt the need to say how appreciative we are for all the time you take to shoot these helpful videos. All your stuff has been a COLOSSAL BLESSING to us down here in Blairsville Ga. KNOWING how much time it takes and your AND MRS. Kamon' WILLINGNESS to do so SPEAKS VOLUMES BOUT Y'ALL'S CHARACTER, HEARTS AND SOULS! Can ASSURE you that just behind, next to and sometimes right in front of every good man is a 10 fold BETTER GIRL!!! Speaking with 34 Valentine's days experience under my belt! 😍♥️👊💯
And I THANK GOD FOR HER MULTIPLE TIMES DAILY! 🙌🙌🙌
Watching your videos and getting ready for some spring bees built 4 boxes yesterday off your planes and turned out pretty well for a none carpenter. Thanks for all the info and good luck with the bees.🐝🐝🐝
I just got done making six nucs using your measurements from your other video. They turned out great . Also made 3 swarm trap boxes the same way but deeper . I sure would love to get some of your old frames from you to use in my swarm boxes . Thanks for the idea on the boxes .
That colony is looking pretty small so definitely a good idea to put them in a nuc box. And the mites are definitely a problem and you can't just assume because you treated your bees that took care of the problem as your experiment has clearly shown. Good information as always my friend thanks for sharing.
Will keep watching to see if you can bring them back. It’s really hard todo sometimes.
Great video, looking forward to seeing you in Maysville in March
As you said it is so very important that we stay on top of our mite counts along with treating on a controlled schedule of timing.
Do those checks after treating. I struggled all last year with mites. Used Apivar on new packages, Apiguard in July, five rounds of Oxalic Acid in August. In November I did another Oxalic Acid sublimation (vapor) and dropped between 400 and 1000 mites. No matter what I did last year mites just kept coming and coming. I monitored and knew more treatments had to be done.
This spring I'll be drone trapping (as I've done years ago) to knock down the mites. I just can't believe my packages developed that many mites in a season. But they were there.
I'm betting that beekeepers in my area aren't treating and I'm struggling with their crashing colonies.
I lost fifty percent because of this. I'm hoping to check this weekend and find out if I lost more. Hoping not. Kept bees for over 20 years and never in the past three years have I had such a hard time.
your story is so close with mine ... in 2018 i was shocked to discover a big load of varroa , i think i made 5 treatments with amitraz (i have a video about it). After that i discovered that a lot of beekeepers had issues with varroa in 2018 and lots of families has died. My first reaction was to change the treatment in 2019 i never use amitraz(Apivar has amitraz ).
Thanks mate, great video. Reckon you could do a video on the mini mating nucs behind you there?
Keep making these videos. 💪
Not a Beekeeper but watching to learn. I did hear you say northern climate's have less mite problems. Maybe freezing frames before use would help. Just a thought.
Looks like polystyrene mini mating nucs over your right shoulder behind you on the shelf.
I like these nuсs 👍
👍. More intersted in the boxs behind you. Doo you cat old bild freme wax for the start of little fremes
Thanks !!
The mites can be overwhelming, lots research going on that will eventually put us in position to rid us of these pests.
Great video thanks 🐝🐝
Those spinner entrances are nice, that's what I like to use. I like to leave a porch out in front with them though. What I do is position it on the upper side with the entrance below then I staple a shim on each side and staple a porch across so that there's enough of an opening for the spinner to work behind the porch. It probably doesn't matter but bees loaded with nectar and pollen are heavy and i feel like that porch helps them be more efficient and gives them room to defend and beard if needed.
I've been eyeing those small queen breeding boxes like one the shelf behind you for a couple of years but have not bothered ordering any of them until this year. Could you please do a video on using those Kamon, thanks.
I'll try to do a good video on that Brent this spring.
@@kamonreynolds Thanks man, I appreciate it.
Would be appreciated too.
In the video when u said leave comments below, looked like a bee at the bottom right corner of the frame had K wing
Make your five frame box with a little extra space.
Are there any variables? LOL I have a feeling you are nursing them along for our benefit. In the "commercial" world would you just cut your looses with this hive?
Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
Hey JBees. Pretty much. We don't have time for dinks. It is much easier to focus on the champs and make a new split.
@@kamonreynolds But there are so many of us that are hobbyist and would take the time. That is whats so great about Kamon taking the time for us. Thank you Kamon.
I agree with doing an alcohol wash immediately after treatment as possibly giving an inaccurate reading. Something I’ve not considered. I washed a 1 in late Oct but did it right after treatment.
In Georgia we are expecting cold weather for the next week or so. Do you see any issues with starting OA treatment during this time?
With the recent warm weather I checked for Queen cells and busted up drone comb in between deeps. I saw mites. Goes to show frequent evaluation and mite checks are better than “feelings”.
So I am guessing if this spring they don't show good brood, will you re Queen it again?
Hey Kamon, you say you did Apivar and then more OAV. Did you do the OAV while you had the Apivar strips in there or after the strips came out? If they are done together, will that affect the brood/queen's ability to lay? Thanks for your knowledge!
I did oav while I had apivar. Not sure it should be done but I did t see any difference in Colony behavior. They were weak and they still are weak. More than likely that is due to the viruses and other issues that cone with varroa. Ideally such ridiculous treatment measures should be avoided.
Odd question, do you think the metal disc would get to hot for the bees if box is in sun? I've heard people claiming plastic is better for that reason. Just wondering your thoughts.
Where is the swarm trap video? It wasn't in the link. I've watched one you put out. Is there another? Thanks. Love your videos. You get to the point/s and don't drag on and on!
Is it safe to use the old frames even in a swarm trap if you suspect this colony has virus infection?
Hey Heidi, I would let the frame air out for a month or 2 and reuse them. Thankfully viruses don't persist in the combs
Kamon, in your opinion would there be anything wrong with making nuc boxes 5 1/2 frames wide so you have a little wiggle room for frames or is that too much extra bee space?
If he spent the time to trim off the propolis he would have the space.
I built a couple of mine with an extra 3/8" width to accommodate a feeder and still have 4 frames. I haven't tried it yet on bees but it fits well.
I have decided that I am going to treat at least monthly with OA. Since it dissipates, I can see very little downside. I am just east of Kansas City in the country, with massive fields around us and in late summer a 60 acre sunflower farm. I am also going to set traps soon, as we have five degrees here today!😳
Hi. Summer OA? 3-5% efficiency at most. Good lack! (you need it)
Tonganoxie Split. Man, I miss Dan Henry.
I do too!! I am the guy that carried on the To for split with Joel Nichols on 9 for several years.
I guess you like those mating nuc? Was thinking of getting one to test any thoughts?
You would have no problem reusing frames of comb that have been in a box that had a high virus load? Is it not contaminated?
My main hive took 11 OAV hits to knock the mites out. Don't just do one or two and think you got them. Up here in BC Canada this year it was bad for mites from other beeks I've talked to...
is that K wing I see? when looking at the first brood frame?
A mite wash is better than cleaning out a dead hive
Hello Kamon , I know that your time is valuable ,but since you are emphasizing the importance of mite control , as I suggested in your last video check out Anna Kra 's video on mite control. He is from Russia and has fifty hives. He lost no hives last year. He lives in South Carolina and like you he stresses the importance of mite control. He uses the broken brood method. If you can't find the time maybe some of you subscribers will check these video's out. I found it very helpful and very educational . Hope your nuc survives . and your pollen recipe works great , thanks
How do I get a hold of you to see about getting queens this spring
What kind of bees do you have? If they are Italians they aren't very mite resistant. I was interested to see the queen on that one to see what she was.
This colony was a swarm we caught with a very dark coloration. Once the mites got way out of hand we requeened with one of our carnies and began treatment
@@kamonreynolds carniolians are more mite resistant, along with Russians
Second frame going into the he Nuc looked like some K wing? Bottom center left of frame
Your right I see that now. I didn't find the queen but I didn't really try to find her. Hopefully she is still there!
Well you’ve got brood she was there at some point recently! Thanks again for the great work. I hope you’re close to being able to go full time beekeeping!!
Thanks Ray!
I guess you’ll have to wait for another round of brood emerging before you know if it’s the queen with the viruses causing the k-wing? Or if you can treat that out?!
My bet is that inside a nuc box they are going to take off like gang buster, if the queen is still alive and healthy.
👍
🇨🇦 Wow that’s a lot of mites. Would a forced swarm work ie mess up the mites cycle. Just use drawn comb and shake all bees in and get rid of any brood from original hive. Although my mindset is to not even give them drawn comb then aggressively go after mites on bees ie chemicles or sugar dusting. Give necessary food. Since female mites can live in summer up to 2 months, would have to repeat. A mite on its own will live 5 days. They hav studied Ferrell bees , they cluster smaller, multiple swarms through summer, no real issues with foulbrood or mites. Just trying to think outside box.
Got one in adicion for the sumer problems. Kamon you love football...if you make a gagat like thet pollen ecstractor on your plastic computer hive...1/3 long, no hols just a holwhey (dam english) ...can you emagin the domestic defens under...we make auars from plastic cola botals...10cm in the hive is more then inaf..Hope you see this , and my vriting?????
How do you vent the nuc box? I had a 5 frame go into winter and it had too much moisture trapped inside and the colony absconded.
I put a spacer with 3 compartments two outer with pine shaving and middle for sugar brick then double bubble on top with hole in the middle same as the inner cove . Hope this helps
I forgot to mention a 3/4 hole above pine on one end of the spacer
I do a lot of splits and end up keeping some over winter in nuc sized boxes. The important part to me doing things my way...is to have nuc-sized boxes and use them like deeps and mediums. Yeah. Even made little shims to feed and vent them. I winter double nucs that are stacked up like a regular hive only it's two colonies. In spring transition to full size then repeat the process. The quicker I empty out the doubles into full size the better because very quickly I'll need all the half-boxes and doubles for splits. Buying bees? What is that?
I thought the bees liked to fly and land near the bottom
Too much space is just as bad as not enough space!!
Meaning appropriate space for size of colony for the time of year, wheather it's a nectar flow or dearth. If it's a cold time of year tight brood nest area is better, if it's a heavy flow extra space prevents swarming, if it's a dearth less space is easier to guard.
Did you find the queen? I may have missed that?!
About 7:30-7:42 in the video right side of frame midway up there looks to be a bee with K wing. I don't know how to attach a photo, I've got a screenshot...
Are u or have u experienced colony collapse disorder? If so, what do u do to address it? 😊
Hi Kamon. If you think the queen is viable and no signs of America or European Foul brood. You could use the newspaper and queen excluder method and combine your weak nuc with a very strong 10 frame colony. Give the nuc a boost. I raise three queens late October last year. The nucs didnt have enough time to build enough strength for the winter. I boosted them with thre other strong colony's. I have 6 frames of brood in those weak nucs currently and it's time to split asap. I'm located in eastern NC. Happy beekeeping!
can i still order nucs????? asking for my bee club possible 10 orders
Why not open the ventilation Down the box ??
Ok. Got one for mrs. Reynolds. We are thrayin it last 4 years. This will save you $ on feeding and varoa tretmans. It will be scherry the first time. This year we will cage ol are qweens for 25 days. We are dooin it around 6. 15. it is when the rasberry starts. By then you got 9,10 or more brood frames and a big nunber of bees. By the time you relise the qweens oll brood frames 9,10 are with a honey crovn and polen and polisht wher the brood wos. When they start with the brood again they don't stop. At one time they will have the bothom fool of capt brood frames. And with some math you can time it for your sezon. Hope it will be ize to anderstend. Not my best english, to long after school...if you doo 2 hives just for the varoa experiment. It works. It is done with a cage make of a qween excluder so bees pas thru it and cary the sent around the hive. Or you can cover the qween with a similar cage on 1/4 of the frame. Then you fork the varroa out for 2,3 times...You know what i'm meen...
Hey K, finally getting my Nucs this spring for my first year! Do you recommend Apivar strips right away or should I do a wash right away and go from there?
Make absolutely certain you check the mite loads when you are done Apivar. The mites in my hives weren't effected at all last year from it. It shows me that in some areas (but not all) that mites are becoming resistant to the product. These were new packages. After the suggested time of leaving the strips in the colony, my mite counts were two per one hundred.
I know you asked K but I thought I'd chime in (who doesn't like random comments from random people).
If you're buying your nuc locally from a reputable dealer ask them if/how the nuc or parent colonies were treated and what their last mite load was. Mite population increases with bee population but the ratio becomes extremely problematic in late summer when the bee population declines far more rapidly than the mites. As part of you IPM (since you only have a couple colonies) it would be good to do mite check once month after you get your bees (I would wait a month on the first check if the nuc dealer is reputable). If you don't want to do alcohol wash every month try a sugar shake but definitely do an alcohol wash in late July and again in September.
A mite load of 3/100 through July is a good starting point for when to treat. After that drop to 2/100 as the load will inevitably increase rapidly. Regardless of your mite load, treat again with oxalic acid vapor on a warm November day.
PS what you use for treatment through the year will vary (honey supers on? Brood? Temperature). Try looking up example IPM's and even looking for charts that dictate the best treatments for what time of year and wait periods for honey supers. And like K said, follow up. Nobody would have cancer removed and not go to their follow up appointment to see if the removal was effective; mites are like cancer to the colony, don't skip the follow-up, if it wasn't and it's late in the season mites will multiply faster than bees.
I'll stop typing now 😂
Good luck with your bees!
@Backyard Bees NC lmao or do that. Clearly you can make it as much or as little work as desired!
@Backyard Bees NC maybe you could use some of that bubblegum vape stuff instead of smoke? "Bees don't smoke"
Why not open the ventilation bottom
problem with OA is that once you have the tools. it is cheap and easy, so people over use it and use it wrong. Mites are gonna eb immune to OA in a few years
Where I mind tenn are you located? Do you sell bees. Pm
I believe I'd have to feed them some antibiotics an try to get them over the hump.
wayne watson - cedar branch hives The bacterial infections in that hive-ugh
@@lenoretalon9958 all due to them dang mites !! Antibiotics will kill the bacteria !!!, hate having to use anything like that, kinda like you an i havin to take meds though, sometimes its only way to get over it.
Do you think it helps knock down the Beatles too?
I never knew that oxalic acid was used in the music industry.....lol (Beatles is the band...beetles are the insect)
thank God I'm not perfect. My goal is to beekeep not win a spelling 🐝
Good reply Houston!! 👍🏻 Actually the Beatles, Kamon, were a band. Lol
Houston, from what I have studied and experienced, OAV does not effect SHB. Like bees, they have a protected exoskeleton. Unlike VARROA DESTRUCTOR. I hope that helps. Phillip Hall
@@PhillipHall01 It do. Thanks
K wing I see k wing
I thought you would like to know for some reason you can no longer "ring the bell" for notifications for your channel.
John Watson it let me
WHERE IS THE QUEEN!!!
She was running the camera 😆 , jk. i think he said he didnt see her
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 LOL! Yah he has a true Jewel! That is what I thought he said too! Hope she was in the sidewall of the box and not gone!
@@paulawaldrep3760 hope so too, i had a hive last yr, ever time i dug in it the queen would go to bottom board an run around down there, then i had another one that ever time i took lid off, she would come to the top of frames. I guess as long as theres lots of brood they can be wherever they want 😀🐝🐝
How can you tell a Russian bee from a Italian
wouldnt risk the rest of the yard. Personally would have just killed the hive and frozen every part in it, then steamed the whole hive to kill all viruses
Great video, looking forward to seeing you in Maysville in March