As always, nice work. I like it when you step out of your comfort zone and hit a home run. I was lucky on my 54 buick. I was able to leave the lead seams relatively undisturbed. Keep doing what you do, brother!
Hey Matt, how is the polishing coming along? Thanks I wish it would have come out a little better but I am happy. Trying to keep it real on the channel so we all learn together.
Thanks Trav, I do the same thing so yell away at me! Dave actually has some and I borrowed what lead he had on hand to finish and totally brain farted on asking him for it. Can't have it to easy, I wouldn't know how to act.
Learned a lot Mark. Nice video. I’ve been gone for a couple of weeks and am now catching up on your videos. Picked up the ‘49 at Bo’s yesterday. Turned out great. It was a little tall for his tank so there is a small section of corrosion on the inside of the roof. I’ll take care of that. The doors and fenders are perfect. Just like on Ruby, some new areas of corrosion presented themselves. I’ll deal with that. Will email some photos to you. Thanks again! R
@@robertmazzei2412 That is great news Robert. Pretty exciting phase of your project. I look forward to seeing the pictures. How is the humidity there? Not bad I hope.
Well. In the summer it’s fine. Not like SoCal for sure. But I won’t be able to let it sit as you’ve done with Ruby. I’ll need to get the DTM epoxy it sooner rather than later. Are you still satisfied with the epoxy product you used on Ruby? Thanks very much Mark.
@@robertmazzei2412 Yes I am but there are plenty out there to choose from. Just read the product sheets on all of them before you choose. Just because they call it DTM doesn't mean it is for large bare steel areas. What paint line are you thinking of going with? Are you using base coat clear coat or single stage?
I’m going to use single stage. Maybe I should go to the auto paint store I use and get their take on things. I recently had them match a paint color for my airplane tail and they did a super job. I can look back at your video, but can you give me the product name you used. I’ll run it by them and see what they think. Really appreciate your help!
Thanks Doug. My view is that I need to get better at doing it. The factory lead lasted all this time with zero issues so that shows how good it really is. Plastic body filler has its place, just have to use it properly.
Very nice work Mark. I can see this is not as easy as some make it look. It came out very nice. I wonder if the little pits could be fixed with a soldering gun and small wire solder? Thank you for your time. I learned a lot.
Mark, have you ever used “All Metal”? I have the same seam to fill on my Camaro’s sailpanels. Another option is to weld a strip of metal between the qtr panels and the roof skin, so that a small amount of filler replaces a larger area.
Hi Charlie. I have use EverCoats Metal to Metal which is the same as All Metal. They are metal (aluminum powder) reinforced plastic body fillers. They work great in zero flex areas and are much harder than lightweight fillers. I know a guy doing a 67 Chevelle that welded in a strip on the seam. Looked like it was going to work really well but I wanted to try my hand at leading in that large area and make it match the other side...well kind of match 🙂
I know these classic cars were leaded in the sail panel... but nobody has ever been able to explain why that was. Do you know the reasons behind all that?
The factory used that area to spot weld the inner and outer panels together in a certain order for crush strength from what I know. The lead was their body filler back then and performed and still performs better than catalyzed fillers. No shrinkage, dense like steel and sands smooth. Just a lot harder to apply than plastic body fillers.
This kinda work is dying I see people dump a bunch of duraglass in those channels it just makes you wonder why they didn't just google it and make an effort to lead seam it.
Most people do not appreciate just how much fillers shrink and if you put it on that thick they will shrink over a long period of time. I have seen plenty of ghost repairs haunting plenty of show cars from that very thing.
As always, nice work. I like it when you step out of your comfort zone and hit a home run. I was lucky on my 54 buick. I was able to leave the lead seams relatively undisturbed. Keep doing what you do, brother!
Hey Matt, how is the polishing coming along?
Thanks I wish it would have come out a little better but I am happy. Trying to keep it real on the channel so we all learn together.
That paddle and butter makes this so much easier it was hard I wanted to scream in the TV but you did a good job.
Thanks Trav, I do the same thing so yell away at me! Dave actually has some and I borrowed what lead he had on hand to finish and totally brain farted on asking him for it. Can't have it to easy, I wouldn't know how to act.
Learned a lot Mark. Nice video. I’ve been gone for a couple of weeks and am now catching up on your videos.
Picked up the ‘49 at Bo’s yesterday. Turned out great. It was a little tall for his tank so there is a small section of corrosion on the inside of the roof. I’ll take care of that.
The doors and fenders are perfect. Just like on Ruby, some new areas of corrosion presented themselves. I’ll deal with that. Will email some photos to you.
Thanks again!
R
@@robertmazzei2412 That is great news Robert. Pretty exciting phase of your project. I look forward to seeing the pictures. How is the humidity there? Not bad I hope.
Well. In the summer it’s fine. Not like SoCal for sure. But I won’t be able to let it sit as you’ve done with Ruby. I’ll need to get the DTM epoxy it sooner rather than later.
Are you still satisfied with the epoxy product you used on Ruby?
Thanks very much Mark.
@@robertmazzei2412 Yes I am but there are plenty out there to choose from. Just read the product sheets on all of them before you choose. Just because they call it DTM doesn't mean it is for large bare steel areas. What paint line are you thinking of going with? Are you using base coat clear coat or single stage?
I’m going to use single stage. Maybe I should go to the auto paint store I use and get their take on things. I recently had them match a paint color for my airplane tail and they did a super job.
I can look back at your video, but can you give me the product name you used. I’ll run it by them and see what they think.
Really appreciate your help!
That's a pretty interesting process. I saw it done on another car/body channel and wasn't sure your views on it. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Doug. My view is that I need to get better at doing it. The factory lead lasted all this time with zero issues so that shows how good it really is. Plastic body filler has its place, just have to use it properly.
Very nice work Mark. I can see this is not as easy as some make it look. It came out very nice. I wonder if the little pits could be fixed with a soldering gun and small wire solder? Thank you for your time. I learned a lot.
Thanks. Those pits are already haunting me so I will definitely fix them. Just can't let it go you know...
Mark, have you ever used “All Metal”? I have the same seam to fill on my Camaro’s sailpanels. Another option is to weld a strip of metal between the qtr panels and the roof skin, so that a small amount of filler replaces a larger area.
Hi Charlie. I have use EverCoats Metal to Metal which is the same as All Metal. They are metal (aluminum powder) reinforced plastic body fillers. They work great in zero flex areas and are much harder than lightweight fillers. I know a guy doing a 67 Chevelle that welded in a strip on the seam. Looked like it was going to work really well but I wanted to try my hand at leading in that large area and make it match the other side...well kind of match 🙂
I know these classic cars were leaded in the sail panel... but nobody has ever been able to explain why that was. Do you know the reasons behind all that?
The factory used that area to spot weld the inner and outer panels together in a certain order for crush strength from what I know. The lead was their body filler back then and performed and still performs better than catalyzed fillers. No shrinkage, dense like steel and sands smooth. Just a lot harder to apply than plastic body fillers.
This kinda work is dying I see people dump a bunch of duraglass in those channels it just makes you wonder why they didn't just google it and make an effort to lead seam it.
Most people do not appreciate just how much fillers shrink and if you put it on that thick they will shrink over a long period of time. I have seen plenty of ghost repairs haunting plenty of show cars from that very thing.