So many times when I watch UA-cam machining I cringe when forced to watch the makers power tapping with conventional taps, seeing you hand tapping with power taps was a nice balm on my soul.
Likewise, 55 years a machinist, I thought carriage stops were the ant's pants on lead screws but an auto tool retracting device on a lathe again WOW!!!!! I guess that's what tool makers do for a living
This channel is criminally undersubscribed(is that even a word?) Your cinematography and production levels are off the charts. Watching you go from 600ish subs to 12.5k has been extremely inspirational for me, and it's this kind of quality that I'm aiming for with my videos. You have my highest respect sir. P.S. - it's needless to say, but this tool is a work of genius, as is your build. I do very little single point thread cutting for the exact reasons that you outlined, and I seriously want to make one now seeing how effective it is in action.
It's the first video i see from Your channel and i have to say, that it could be one of my new favorite channel. Great job, good idea and execution and also good camera work and voiceover. As a creator myself i think a can learn a lot from You, thank You
I do threads up to shoulders all the time and have found the easiest way is to use a left hand tool upside down and run in reverse. I set a carriage stop that I can return to on each pass. The depth of thread is easy to calculate and thus so is the depth. Of the clearance groove. The width of the groove is consistent based on the threading tool used. Since I’m not threading toward a shoulder or the chuck, the stress of the job is gone.
I watched this build with interest. Great camera work as always, good balance of narrative and machining content, definitely useful end product. Based on your experience if I were to build one I would probably limit the travel to about 2x the maximum thread depth that I would expect to cut. I’d also use a tool holder for vertical threading inserts since they seem to hold up better for me. Good looking tool.
Thanks, those are good suggestions. Other viewers were also suggesting the final part (with the thin threaded section) was poorly designed, so I had a second (third, fourth?) look at it and I'm changing it. It's really cool to have all this feedback, thanks for coming back!
Very interesting! As you indicated yourself there are 2 things that can cause a problem: the eccentric “notch” on the lever that must click behind the bushing to keep all in place and the “ellbow” that flips out and that could be hit by the jaws. I would rather choose a system with a spring at the rear end that is kept on its place by a kind of latch…
Biggest downside of overcenter is that it has to go... over center to switch. I didn't think of it at first either but as soon as you did the thread I knew right away that it was the problem because This Old Tony taught me everything there is to know about overcenter. 😉
Fortunately in my shop we have a lathe wich stops going forward automatically as soon as it hits the carriage stop. Sorry for bad spelling I am Austrian and don’t know all those specific words in English 😂
Hi, it's Wrinkle Plus from VHT, there's a black version and a red one. I've added a direct link in the description of this video if you want to have a look.
2 possible modifications. Add a port to pipe compressed air into the tool to deal with chips. Pop a small magnet to hold the arm in place since you abandoned the over centre mechanism.
Cool design. Never seen that before. Using a bi-stable pair of springs instead of an over-center design would get the same result for keeping the mechanism locked.
No, cleaning up is good thing, have hard time with this in shop, bad to just go to another surface when gets too cluttered, plus you can keep your machines in better shape by not dragging dust, dirt and small chips along the ways of your machines, we're gonna have start doing better in this way, great video 👍
The only downside i see with this project is that there is no soft stop when the tooling snaps inside. This could cause deformation on the contact surfaces, and with the tight tolerances, it could cause binding. Love the content non the less.
Hi, it's from HBM, from the same place where I got the lathe. Look up for U3 universal grinder, that's the one. I believe the latest model is the U5, I don't know which upgrades it has, if any.
Hi, one thing I don't understand is main issue you have with making undercut, but in reality, thread depth is same undercut, so it is weaking the material same way doesn't it? Maybe the design of part is incorrect in the first place, that you need thread on such thin wall? Nice tool though, even with this overcenter hiccup :) This Old Tony made a video about this some time ago. One thing that getting rid of overcenter pivot placement is making tool unstable a little bit, but it is not critical that it might retract spontaneously, just have to make another pass when it does. Seem not to be an issue though :). If so, you could keep lever in position with your finger probably.
Thanks for your comment. Your feedback was appreciated and made me start thinking about changing the design of the part. I'll try to cover this and other questions on my next video. Thanks!
yeah, the overcenter acting on the tool itself was a bit of a ... oopsie. ratchet and pawl seems the ideal way to lock the tool in place. the overcenter acting on the pawl instead. iunno. best thing about watching these is to think of better ways to achieve something :) i would have just redesigned the threaded gland (assuming thats what it is...) to not be so borderline! what happens when its torqued down, or when its rusted in and need removing? 0.5mm of wall thickness has never worked out well in my experience...
I have been looking at the threaded part from a different angle and I'm redesigning it. Other people were saying it was a bad design to start with and they're right. If I invert it, I can have a thicker wall and 'more reach', while maintaining the clearances inside and the outside dimensions. This part will not be subject to any loads, I'll show what it is on the next video. As for the threading tool, it seems to hold up without self-rectracting. These videos are great for me as well to get this kind of feedback!
Очень сложно, просто можно было сделать шторку в которую падал инструмент. При том на нём можно было создать большое давление и открывать его в достаточно жёсткий упор.
I'm happy with mine, for the price I can't complain. It has been reliable so far, but do keep in mind I took it apart and reassembled it when I got it (to clean up and make some improvements). Check my other videos for that process. You don't need to do that to have a good lathe. If you're thinking of buying one of these lathes, there are lots of improvements that can be made, but starting with a good basis is the best you can do to save money and time. Study well all the models available.
@ oh I see! You put a lot of effort into it! Very nice, I’m going to watch them later! Planning to buy a HBM machine as well next year. Was thinking of the same model, since it comes with the glass scales. Your Dutch? Since HBM is from the Netherlands.
Thanks for this, as I started to look at the part from a different angle. I was able to redesign it and have a thicker wall while maintaining clearances and overall dimensions. I'll show what this part is on the next video.
@@nbrworks No problem, it just seemed like that one section would make it fairly weak if there were the potential for stresses on the part, whether from physical movement, or potentially pressures. But if those wouldn't be an issue, then the thinness in that thread area wouldn't matter.
Why would having a thread relief make the wall thickness any thinner? The diameter of the relief does not have to be any smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. If you are worried about strength, you can often use a threading insert with a larger radius tip which will give you a larger minor diameter and thus greater wall thickness.
Exactly my thoughts. It all goes back to basic part design. There's the DIN 509 for various relief cuts, something I see every day at work. When no relief is required, then the full thread cannot be made right up to the shoulder. Even CNC machines have a finite retraction speed and I would not want to program it to run within less than a few tenths of a mm up to a shoulder anyway. Also, the thread cutting cycles on our CNC lathes have a parameter for retraction which I think is set to a default of 1x thread pitch (meaning the tool retracts from the set engagement to zero within one thread pitch). It can be made smaller up to the machine's limit I guess. And there is also a DIN spec for the thread lead-out forms, we had a drawing recently that raised this question. I have to look up the number. Anyway, as a machine shop we would definitely have a discussion with the customer about this kind of requirements and work out a solution based on our capabilities, charging extra for non-standard features which require more effort.
So many times when I watch UA-cam machining I cringe when forced to watch the makers power tapping with conventional taps, seeing you hand tapping with power taps was a nice balm on my soul.
Cleaning up and keeping the area clean displays a functional and organized mind and approach to the job at hand. Never apologize for being that way!
Absolutely brilliant project, also all the little extra bits were superb. Really brilliant. Thank you
Thanks Julian!
I've been a machinist for 57 yrs. All I can say is WOW!!!!
Likewise, 55 years a machinist, I thought carriage stops were the ant's pants on lead screws but an auto tool retracting device on a lathe again WOW!!!!! I guess that's what tool makers do for a living
This is one of the cooler custom tools I've seen on UA-cam! 👍
Props to KBC, they have a good catalog and reasonable prices.
This channel is criminally undersubscribed(is that even a word?)
Your cinematography and production levels are off the charts. Watching you go from 600ish subs to 12.5k has been extremely inspirational for me, and it's this kind of quality that I'm aiming for with my videos.
You have my highest respect sir.
P.S. - it's needless to say, but this tool is a work of genius, as is your build. I do very little single point thread cutting for the exact reasons that you outlined, and I seriously want to make one now seeing how effective it is in action.
Hey Erik! Thanks. Your rings looked cool too! Keep it up!
@@nbrworks Thank you so much! It really means a lot to me!
*13.6k!
@@EngineerRaisedInKingston Your channel is also criminally undersubscribed! 😀
@@jesperwall839 you’re far too kind!
It's the first video i see from Your channel and i have to say, that it could be one of my new favorite channel. Great job, good idea and execution and also good camera work and voiceover.
As a creator myself i think a can learn a lot from You, thank You
Thanks, and welcome!
Very nice design threading tool.
Works good.
Certainly a quality built tool.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend. 👍
I think you have Inheritance Machining beat on the side projects as your own side projects get even their own video!
This one was intense. Another (hidden) side project was building the PC so I could edit the video. 😅
Another excellent video. Thanks for taking time to share what you learned along the way.
Great work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Your calm way to presets those projects is refreshing!
I do threads up to shoulders all the time and have found the easiest way is to use a left hand tool upside down and run in reverse. I set a carriage stop that I can return to on each pass. The depth of thread is easy to calculate and thus so is the depth. Of the clearance groove. The width of the groove is consistent based on the threading tool used. Since I’m not threading toward a shoulder or the chuck, the stress of the job is gone.
I watched this build with interest. Great camera work as always, good balance of narrative and machining content, definitely useful end product. Based on your experience if I were to build one I would probably limit the travel to about 2x the maximum thread depth that I would expect to cut. I’d also use a tool holder for vertical threading inserts since they seem to hold up better for me. Good looking tool.
Thanks, those are good suggestions. Other viewers were also suggesting the final part (with the thin threaded section) was poorly designed, so I had a second (third, fourth?) look at it and I'm changing it. It's really cool to have all this feedback, thanks for coming back!
The original design featured 1/8" retract, which is plenty if you have automatic half-nut release. ua-cam.com/video/QBnc20RpjRo/v-deo.html
Nice work on a clean design, well worth the wait. Now looking forward to the carriage stop video.
Very interesting! As you indicated yourself there are 2 things that can cause a problem: the eccentric “notch” on the lever that must click behind the bushing to keep all in place and the “ellbow” that flips out and that could be hit by the jaws. I would rather choose a system with a spring at the rear end that is kept on its place by a kind of latch…
That wrinkle finish is so good!
That knurling was epic.
Biggest downside of overcenter is that it has to go... over center to switch. I didn't think of it at first either but as soon as you did the thread I knew right away that it was the problem because This Old Tony taught me everything there is to know about overcenter. 😉
Fortunately in my shop we have a lathe wich stops going forward automatically as soon as it hits the carriage stop. Sorry for bad spelling I am Austrian and don’t know all those specific words in English 😂
It's been a lifetime since I've been on a machine, I kind of miss it.
An elegant design, well implemented.
Whats the name of that spray paint finish, it looks so good
Hi, it's Wrinkle Plus from VHT, there's a black version and a red one. I've added a direct link in the description of this video if you want to have a look.
It certainly beats threading in reverse to avoid crashing. I want one!
Fantastic Video and Fantastic Project. Can you please make a plan set available?
very nice done!💪 ...i feel with you because of that "4am i can't go now" 😂✌️ cheers from bavaria
Really great video and keep up the cleaning. Awesome little tool!!!
Thumbs up and comment after 3 minutes...man i love content like this❤😅 greetings from Germany
Thanks!
VHT makes some of the highest quality paint on the market. It’s an excellent brand.
Great job!!! Congratulations. 🍾👍🏼
Thanks for sharing
.
Absolutely fantastic
Great video and very well filmed, subbed.
2 possible modifications. Add a port to pipe compressed air into the tool to deal with chips. Pop a small magnet to hold the arm in place since you abandoned the over centre mechanism.
Cool design. Never seen that before. Using a bi-stable pair of springs instead of an over-center design would get the same result for keeping the mechanism locked.
No, cleaning up is good thing, have hard time with this in shop, bad to just go to another surface when gets too cluttered, plus you can keep your machines in better shape by not dragging dust, dirt and small chips along the ways of your machines, we're gonna have start doing better in this way, great video 👍
Awesome build sir!
Outstanding!
Great job on the tool and on the video; both take work.
Good video. Enjoyed it. Props for showing your mistakes - sign of a good teacher. Sub'd.
Thanks! Welcome!
electronic leadscrew ftw. Its such a game changer for things like this.
I hate changing gears. I might do an ELS conversion one of these days.
Great job! Thanks for the video.
Wow, I love that tool!
great Presentation !
Nicely done
Cool project and nicely made. Not sure what was wrong with threading away from the chuck though…seems a better solution overall
Works fine unless you can't have a thread relief, or you have a threaded spindle.
Amazing work. good skills.
Nice work.
The only downside i see with this project is that there is no soft stop when the tooling snaps inside. This could cause deformation on the contact surfaces, and with the tight tolerances, it could cause binding. Love the content non the less.
My current design incorporates an internal bumper to address this issue and "soften the blow".
Very nice work mister. Yeah single point threading is scary.
Awesome tool good luck
Very nice build 👏
Pretty cool idea, and nice work👌
Nice!
I was at KBC Tool Thursday and saw that NOGA 007 DEBURRING TOOL SET. Now I am going back to KBC on Monday to pick one up.
I have been using the internal chamfering tool a lot, it's a great set.
👍👍👍 good tips and tricks
My butt quivered watching you cut that piece on the bandsaw.
You are very skilled.
I wish machining was a cheaper hobby.
The wall thickness of this part lies beyond good enginering anyways.
Excellent job!
Thanks!
Love you grinding machine. Where did you get it? Who makes it? It notes nice.
Hi, it's from HBM, from the same place where I got the lathe. Look up for U3 universal grinder, that's the one. I believe the latest model is the U5, I don't know which upgrades it has, if any.
AWESOME 💯💯💯
Did you try taking the bore to size after the threading operation?
Looks very pretty ❤
CNC? -❌
Overenginired stuff - ✅
Superbe travail bravo
Excellent job 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks! I liked your precision vice too!!
@ thanks mate
Это изобетение сроочно запантентовать и внедрить💪
Good Jobs
What would it cost to have you make something like this in an academic size quick change?
AXA tool post!
Hi, check Mr. Whoopee's link in the description. He sells basically the same tool, in several sizes including AXA. Thanks
Hi, one thing I don't understand is main issue you have with making undercut, but in reality, thread depth is same undercut, so it is weaking the material same way doesn't it? Maybe the design of part is incorrect in the first place, that you need thread on such thin wall? Nice tool though, even with this overcenter hiccup :) This Old Tony made a video about this some time ago. One thing that getting rid of overcenter pivot placement is making tool unstable a little bit, but it is not critical that it might retract spontaneously, just have to make another pass when it does. Seem not to be an issue though :). If so, you could keep lever in position with your finger probably.
Thanks for your comment. Your feedback was appreciated and made me start thinking about changing the design of the part. I'll try to cover this and other questions on my next video. Thanks!
Very nice but over complicated.👍
Bravo!!
Bom trabalho! Muito bonito e luxuoso.
What type of grinder are you using?
Hi. It's U3 'universal grinder' from HBM-Machines. I believe the current version is the U5.
You rock!
yeah, the overcenter acting on the tool itself was a bit of a ... oopsie.
ratchet and pawl seems the ideal way to lock the tool in place. the overcenter acting on the pawl instead. iunno. best thing about watching these is to think of better ways to achieve something :)
i would have just redesigned the threaded gland (assuming thats what it is...) to not be so borderline! what happens when its torqued down, or when its rusted in and need removing? 0.5mm of wall thickness has never worked out well in my experience...
I have been looking at the threaded part from a different angle and I'm redesigning it. Other people were saying it was a bad design to start with and they're right. If I invert it, I can have a thicker wall and 'more reach', while maintaining the clearances inside and the outside dimensions. This part will not be subject to any loads, I'll show what it is on the next video.
As for the threading tool, it seems to hold up without self-rectracting. These videos are great for me as well to get this kind of feedback!
Очень сложно, просто можно было сделать шторку в которую падал инструмент. При том на нём можно было создать большое давление и открывать его в достаточно жёсткий упор.
Excellent : I’ve just discover your channel. Wonderfull vids, nice shots, ASMR voice : all’s good. Subscribed 👍👌🖖
P.S. and more : no shitty music!
what brand of lathe you got?
Rams finished, thread from the spindle.
What do you think of the HBM lathe?
I'm happy with mine, for the price I can't complain. It has been reliable so far, but do keep in mind I took it apart and reassembled it when I got it (to clean up and make some improvements). Check my other videos for that process. You don't need to do that to have a good lathe. If you're thinking of buying one of these lathes, there are lots of improvements that can be made, but starting with a good basis is the best you can do to save money and time. Study well all the models available.
@ oh I see! You put a lot of effort into it! Very nice, I’m going to watch them later! Planning to buy a HBM machine as well next year. Was thinking of the same model, since it comes with the glass scales. Your Dutch? Since HBM is from the Netherlands.
The project before the project before the project....
KBC❤
to me, the part is poorly designed requiring a thread in the shallow bore area, making the part extremely thin through the thread area.
Thanks for this, as I started to look at the part from a different angle. I was able to redesign it and have a thicker wall while maintaining clearances and overall dimensions. I'll show what this part is on the next video.
@@nbrworks No problem, it just seemed like that one section would make it fairly weak if there were the potential for stresses on the part, whether from physical movement, or potentially pressures. But if those wouldn't be an issue, then the thinness in that thread area wouldn't matter.
Nice
It ducks faster than a fresh marine
That's 30% over one millimeter!
How to over complicate an already overly complicated situation.
This is unpleasant but you can cut by hand with no power.
Why would having a thread relief make the wall thickness any thinner? The diameter of the relief does not have to be any smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. If you are worried about strength, you can often use a threading insert with a larger radius tip which will give you a larger minor diameter and thus greater wall thickness.
Exactly my thoughts. It all goes back to basic part design.
There's the DIN 509 for various relief cuts, something I see every day at work. When no relief is required, then the full thread cannot be made right up to the shoulder. Even CNC machines have a finite retraction speed and I would not want to program it to run within less than a few tenths of a mm up to a shoulder anyway.
Also, the thread cutting cycles on our CNC lathes have a parameter for retraction which I think is set to a default of 1x thread pitch (meaning the tool retracts from the set engagement to zero within one thread pitch). It can be made smaller up to the machine's limit I guess. And there is also a DIN spec for the thread lead-out forms, we had a drawing recently that raised this question. I have to look up the number.
Anyway, as a machine shop we would definitely have a discussion with the customer about this kind of requirements and work out a solution based on our capabilities, charging extra for non-standard features which require more effort.
👍
I'm starting to believe it's legal for anyone not in America to own a bandsaw lol
👍👍👍👍👍
A way to overcomplicated solution to a simple problem. The best machine is the human mind , focus and experience , does all the tricks .
This is how I do my safe threading on my PM 1030 Lathe .Feed Auto Stop
ua-cam.com/video/DmZVXaB9PT4/v-deo.html
bravoo
I would have just c'bored the threaded hole
Try threading on a lathe with an automatic spindle brake for a real challenge!
⭐🙂👍
❤❤❤🌹🌹🌹👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏