I Made My Own Image Sensor! (And Digital Camera)
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- It actually works! Finally got around to building my own digital camera from scratch. Its not an easy project, but if you want to recreate it, there are resources below!
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I might try and do a MEGAPixel next! What do you think?
you need to add color to it. its easy to do, very easy tbh, i wrote a comment about it. i would love to see it ♥️
I think that it will be another level of hard work.
would be great!
SeanHodgins how about a thermal version? What’s the smallest PIR (or similar) component you can buy?
@@benarthur3517 I believe with old digital cameras you just have to take a filter off of the sensor, there's videos on YT. But yeah that'd be dope
Anyone who took a pic of Bigfoot or an UFO had this Camera on hand...
cuz regular camera is microchipped by CIA, and a pic of Bigfoot or an UFO just disappeared while processed !!!
@@RobotN001 bro most camera companies aren't even American, ain't no foreign company letting the CIA get involved in their products
Dont forget bank CCTV footage
Will 93 that’s just what they want you to think
😂😂😂
If you took the same picture 4 times, with a red, blue, and green filter on three of the shots, you could combine those and get a color picture. You could potentially put those on a motor inside the camera housing that would rotate the colors appropriately and have the ardunio combine them.
That's how remote monochrome astrophotography setups work
You could also have a motor that would rotate the camera by a slight amount like 3 times horizontally and 3 times vertically to get a 9x better resolution photo
That's how JWST and most telescopes work
I used this technique to scan some old film negatives using a scanner and my phone screen as the r/g/b light source and then combined the 3 scans in photoshop. Fun but time consuming :D
You call them remote but my laptop and me are right next to it in the field :p
@@ravbin86
This is cool!! You designed a camera to create 32x32 application icons directly out of real life photos!
iphone users:
oh, my iphone 2g got 20 more pixels!
@@nikostalk5730its so much better than androids... 8k resolution... 1020 pixels total is so good! Cutting edge tech by tim apple!
@@nikostalk5730..just what is thst supposed to mean or make fun of
1:49 "Isn't it amazing how the details come back?"
Ah yes, I can see everything so clear
haha
It's for person with clear eyes sight like me, not for you.
Or someone with big screen
Me looking at the white dot in the middle : ah yes
@@albertllubitmusicr/iamverycool
Use a dedicated fast ADC and buffer RAM chip to grab a picture quickly, then send that to the Arduino :)
Version 2! Must see! :D
I think that would be needed for sure!
@@SeanHodgins Can't wait to see what you do!
This is an amazing idea :D I wonder how well it would work with manual SLR lenses and an adaptor ring? You could change out lenses on the fly, seeing as they rely on fixed focal plane distances :)
With a buffer if there was motion/accelerometer sensors along with a fast enough exposure would it be possible to emulate higher resolutions by moving the camera and stitching in post like a panorama?
I would suggest a different hardware setup, utilizing 'dual co-processors' for reliable fast data transfer.
beagleboard.org/pru
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BeagleBoard#BeagleBone_Black
Unfortunately Arduino won't compile code, you'll have to learn assembly (which you might anyways, if you want a stable reliable transfer - without interrupts from the bootloader, etc)
To save on those costly light sensors, and make things more complex - it is possible to use LED's as light sensors: wiki.analog.com/university/courses/electronics/electronics-lab-led-sensor
@@SeanHodgins The ESP32 has 4 ADCs and up to 20 channels. Split your photo cells into groups and run them on different ADCs. It will be much cheaper too because the ESP32 costs a couple dollars and you can use a few cheap 8:1 or 16:1 MUX chips. The ESP32 can run up to 240Mhz and has 2 cores. Much faster than an Arduino.
Dude - you need a foot-operated vacuum pickup pen - way faster, especally for polarised parts, as you can set the tape to the right orientation.
I definitely do. Have any recommendations? I don't normally do huge component heavy projects like this, and this one was done this way so I could literally say "I built a digital camera by hand!". But I have a friend with a pick and place if things get any bigger.
Finally, sensor that can create decent texture packs for Minecraft.
Nice XD XD
I mean it is really cool that you can build a camera from the ground up at home, but videos like this make me really appreciate and realise how amazing technology is these days. Just look at the tiny sensors in even budget phones. It's still the same process but much smaller and still much much better, that's so cool. What a time to be alive!
Still better image quality than security cameras.
and the ones people use to take pix of UFOs
You right
Security cameras working 24/7 they don't need high resolution. Do you realize, how much memory it is need to store high quality video?
Also there is a cameras that work in high quality, but with moving sensor's, or light sensors, etc.
@@holycogs2706 its a joke
you could make this into a COLOR! camera by putting some color filters in front of it.
so the process would be put a red color filter in front of it, take an image.
swap to a green filter take another image.
swap to a blue filter and take the final image.
then take the images and combine them into one by making each its own color channel (red, green, blue).
this process will only work well on stationary objects but its interesting none the less.
also what the part number of the photocells you used? you don't seem to say anywhere.
Or he could just make a Bayer array with the camera he's already got, use colored sharpies to color over the photodetectors. It would lose a little sensitivity but theoretically retain the same spatial resolution and add color.
That’s how 8-bit guy did it with a b&w webcam
@@stabilini Exactly, this would just be a lower resolution version of what he did.
jkenny1 Good idea! Maybe tiny pieces of filters(if can be found) will work better than sharpies?
Also I could already imagine the resolution suffering😄
@@jkenny1He'd lose a 3rd of the resolution once he demosaics though.
Man... This is so damn sick!
Can’t imagine how hard was working on this project.
It’s also to see how you improved in camera and video work.
It’s amazing to have you back! :)
yss.. i m thinking the same...
A DIY I used to dream about! Had no engineering or coding skills always wanted someone to post a DIY image sensor on YT, and here it is! You're the best Sean! You're the best!
You can get a colored image by taking three images under different color filters and combining it in post.
do you know how to do it? I have a project about it. please contact me. tubbiya@hotmail.com
@@DesignScripter
This video should get it across
ua-cam.com/video/a-ny3geJ-nk/v-deo.html
So a fifteen second shutter instead of five with clicks every five seconds when a servo switches filters. I LOVE IT. Do it.
As a professional photographer who has a degree in electrical engineering and a ton of parts in a bin next to the reflow oven sitting around, this video is the hyper-niche inspo I needed to start a new personal project. Thank you!
Awesome video! Would have been cool to see three colour-filtered shots combined in Photoshop to make a colour image.
You should try using an old medium format lens for the next version. It has a bigger sensor coverage so you dont really have to disassemble it and just make a mount on the camera according to the lens mount
Very cool!
For a lens I'd recommend a projection lens from an old still image projector. Cheaper and better but probably doesn't matter at this resolution.
Thats a great idea! I see those in flea markets all the time. Also a regular old digital projector would probably work great too.
Dude this has been on my "I wonder if that would work..." List for like a decade. I'm glad to see that it would, in fact, work
I've been working in digital imaging since the mid-90s, and now lead an engineering group at a very well known camera company. I have to congratulate you on a very cool project! Nicely done!
I could see lots of ways of improving the performance of this camera, but what's the point? The objective isn't to build something that compares with the state-of-the-art in cameras, so embarking down the road of making enhancements (apart from maybe a color filter wheel!) seems like a waste of time (and there lies madness).
What would be really cool would be to turn this in to an educational kit (probably with the soldering already done). A ScratchX version would be amazing.
At work we have a bring your kids to work day, where we try to give employees' kids a flavor of what designing and building cameras is like. Putting together a kit version of this project would be a great activity for the teens. One that would teach them the fundamentals of camera hardware.
I say buy some ON Semi / Sony sensors and slap some ADCs on it and make an industrial camera of sorts :P
rkan2 No external ADCs needed on modern CMOS sensors. They are on-chip.
In any case, there would be no fun (and lower educational value) using off the shelf image sensors. I worked for ON Semi (well, Aptina which was then bought by ON Semi) for 6 years, and since then have been working with Sony sensors on a daily basis.
It puzzles me that someone like you finds the time to watch UA-cam
reaper. I barely do. Especially with two young kids!
@@pandasinspace3560 It doesn't take a lot of googling...
That's freakin' cool. Cameras have always been magic to me, so its cool to learn how they actually work.
5:51 "OLED LCD" doesn't make any sense, these are two completely different technologies.
Oops.
well done smartass, it’s clear that he’s accidentally used LCD in place of the word “screen” or the like. Just because it’s literal form doesn’t make sense doesn’t mean it isn’t obvious what he’s trying to say.
Seems like an innocent mistake.. considering this guy is likely an expert in pixel technology I'm 100 percent sure he knows better than any of us here the difference between OLED and LCD... And that's saying a lot considering I used to be a sales rep for LG Display. I could never imagine building my own.m working digital camera sensor.
@@trotskiftw just because something seems obvious, doesn't mean, it's right or it shouldn't be corrected. Some don't know that it's wrong or get confused by the fault, so it's legitimate to correct someone's mistake.
@@scenicdepictionsofchicagolife you're really good.
A DIY pick and place machine would make a great addition to your shop. I have one and boy does that save me a lot of time!
5:45 The *digiOBSCURA* probably is a double easter-egg name.
There is a Camera Obscura on a terror game called Fatal Frame.
The "O" of Obscura is the "Aperture Science" logo (from game Portal).
This is the camera them UFO spotters are using
Now shipping with the 'auto shake' image destabilizer for the historically-accurate, authentic feel.
I can not believe you had some form of success attempting to do something of this magnitude, not even the best, niether the most dedicated amount us will not continue trying to make something like this. You are absolutly amazing.
If the mux was for this project...i wonder what *this* is really for...
:D I like your way of thinking... hahaha
You can take 4 different shots each with different illuminations, white light, red light, blue light and green light.
Use them all as r-g-b and b&w channels to make a color picture!
Awesome.
Interesting project, the image quality may be awful but the fact that you did it and the stuff you learned while making it would undoubtedly have made it worth it. It's just awesome that it actually works really.
8:04 so that’s how they pictured mars face
No this is how they blurred the mars face.
You can capture RGB images with this project. All you need to do, add 3 color filters (Red, Green, Blue) and do the same process 3 times. At the end you will get 3 images , 1 for Red color in the image, 1 for Green and 1 for Blue. Add this pictures to together to form 1 Colored image )
I HAVE BEEN INTO THIS STUFF FOR SO LONG THANK YOU!
The algorithm has blessed me...
Get back in it!
A photo of a clock with a thick seconds arm would be nice, exactly because of the slow reading time. This is like a slow motion model that can serve as a demonstration for effects that happen on real image sensors when filming fast-spinning objects (rolling shutter)
5:48 "OLED LCD" 🤔🤔🤔
Yes... its a oled lcd
@@orafaball2162 no its a oled screen, not LCD. LCD stands for Liquid Crystal Display
SeanHodgins: real time preview on the oled was not an option or not enough time?
Maybe hu meant oled display ?!
@D2RG6 Totally pointless...
He used the word 'LCD' to mean display.
Next step is to put a tilt/shift lens on front, capture several images with small translations of the lens moved automatically by a servo, and then combine all the images using a state-of-the-art super-resolution algorithm. This increasing image resolution with the same sensor, at the expense of capture time.
This is also a great testbed for other compressed sensing techniques, like coded-aperture or plenoptic imaging. Any technique used for single-pixel cameras could be applied to this setup to increase the spatial resolution as long as multiple exposures can be taken. For example, instead of a lens, there could be a translucent LCD flashing a unique coded aperture for each exposure.
These are some crazy ideas. Would love to test them out!
@@SeanHodgins There are lots of old view camera parts out there, and with the big sensor area, they'd be great for this system. A 4x5 body won't be super expensive, and there are lots of view camera lenses floating around on the used market. One issue for them is the shutters - I don't know if anyone is making shutters any more. They are "clockwork" mechanisms, so they tend to break/fail and are hard to maintain, so working/repaired ones aren't exactly cheap as chips. But if you are dealing with multi-second exposure times, you can go original old school, and simply take the lens cap off, wait, then put it back on. The whole view camera body/lens system would allow for focusing and great image quality optically.
You should try a colour image with 3 coloured filters
Red green and blue
Stack them in photoshop
They don't have to be filters i think. Maybe you could make the addon light but with RGB and use just pure red, green and blue light to take the pictures?
@@50t5 But then you would have to take the photo in a really dark room
@@0xbenedikt true, that's the negative side of that.
THIS and take some outdoor pictures with those
I worked at a company that made such sensor arrays with radiation-sensitive photodiodes. Each channel had an integrating op-amp, because we had to measure currents down in the pico-amps range. The arrays were used to test linear-accelerator (and cobalt-60) beams from radiotherapy machines.
We did a similar thing using arrays of ionization chambers instead of diodes. Those were much more sparse and had high-voltage bias currents in the ~600V range.
In machines had more detectors than integrators, we used analog MUXes to switch channels. In every case, a background measurement is made with the beam off, which subsequently gets subtracted from live measurements, and of course calibration is needed. I have my name on a patent regarding a calibration method for detector arrays.
Great project! Loved how "basic" it is, yet results were great! Have you thought of stacking? Just keep exposing the same image multiple times and then use photoshop (or in camera?) to stack them to see if you can get a higher res'ed image.
AWESOME! Maybe a good time to mod the 3d printer into a pick and place machine
If I do a megapixel, pick n place will be 100% necessary.
@@SeanHodgins Maybe do a single sensor with stepper placement. That would be pretty slow for sure though.
@@chaos.corner but taking signal/voltage can be continuous. But there is peoblem with inertia of photoresisor. I have one, where changing resistance from daily light to black box took 20-30sec. So it can be fun only with fast sensor... OR with moving not one pixel sensor, but old phone camera sensor. 😋🤩 Thank for new video sean with this idea. 😁🤗
Man, you are amazing! I really hope more people would pick up such hobbies: society would be a thousands years ahead
This was the best way possible to simply and quickly grasp the concept of the digital photography electronic workings. Thank you! Just perfect!
We need version 2, in version 2 you have 4 chips instead of 2, and a microscopic surface mount capacitor behind each solar cell. The first pair of chips reads the voltage and the second set discharges the capacitor. You would have incredible dynamic range, and a SNR about 1000x higher. You also could collaborate with another channel to build AI that superresolutions your output, as there is likely to be subpixel information you could obtain. Lastly, if you had a servo that moved the sensor 1/2 a pixel up / right, in a cycle of 4, you could greatly increase the resolution for static shots.
This is beyond fantástic for one man in his room!!! You should print the first image made by the camera, it will give you in the future a nice history for you!!!
In 2016 i made a very similar but much more sensitive array out of SiPM detectors. They are basically an array of avalanche photodiodes designed to make an analog output similar to a photomultiplier tube. This was coupled to an array of CsI:Tl crystals that were in series optically with the array. It made a imaging radiation detector. Wasn't too practical but it could see a 137Cs check disk from several feet away, but more importantly it gave direction sensing information to help locate nuclear material with very weak fields.
Looks like a Mamiya medium format camera.
Awesome project! Love such projects which try to reinvent stuff!
If you could make this sensitive to infrared it would be really really useful and interesting.
Amazing idea... we are limited to "widely available" image sensor that are made to detect in particular red, green and blue.
me: **comes to comments expecting "why isn't the screen used as a viewfinder"**
the comments: "'oled lcd'"
I love the melting of the fixtures at 5:15!
There was this dude who made a camera from a scanner and it made like 100 megapixel or something huge photos. So here's the idea - in a bigger enclosure put a smaller sensor that moves in rows and stitches the photos and it's much slower, but you get a bigger picture in the end! :)
I wanna make this camera for my Minecraft resourcepack, i have a potato instead of a pc, so max resolution is 32x32 xD
Take 3 photos with 3 colour filters then merge them you then have a colour camera
I used to build my own pinhole film cameras. I had lots of different designs and projects. This is inspiring... too bad I know nothing about electronics.
Kudos on another amazing project! You guys just blow my mind with the amazing engineering that you pull off.
Also, how amazing would a collaboration between you, Tom Stanton and Stuff Made Here be!!! Hoping to see that happen someday!
Not an electronic expert here, but maybe you should connect every pixel to tiny capacitor and gather data from them after shutter close.
Also would be cool to see some mechanics to move matrix and scan different areas of the image... Or color filter carousel to make rgb pics.
Any way cool device for making file pictograms, 32x32 already)
This reminds me of making colour photos from a Nintendo Gameboy camera using Quality Street wrappers (translucent coloured cellophane) to make the colours - it didn't work too well but there was definitely colour in the images...
"Can't believe the details there!" Personally I prefer a little more pixels
You’ve blown my mind about how absolutely hi tech my dslr is now.
Nice to see something creative and original! Wonder if pinhole will work if you just increase exposure time, maybe a minute or two? Early film cameras with large "sensors" had long exposure times so often had static subjects, and early portrait photographers would provide hidden stands to keep subjects still during exposure.
Photoshop: its an icon!
Wait you name...
科技戰艦 看多了嗎😂
Joshua Chan 🤣，但我這回復是一年前的。
@@kjyhh 笑死😂
This is really cool to see, especially after Sony’s recent announcement of a global image sensor that actually takes a reading from every single pixel simultaneously. Rather than scanning like an old CRT. Or every other digital image sensor.
Enjoy it! you are 1 in millions, that makes his own technology! Congratulations, and keep doing so!
Something everyone wants to make but nobody has the patience
Actually. I have literally no desire to make something like this but it is still cool to see someone do stuff like this.
You had the patience of a saint to solder those components yourself. I would PIP that thing for sure.
I've got one now! I just cant do the PNP manually anymore, hurts my neck a lot.
Add some pixel shift function and you will get higher resolution photos, maybe also set a non uniform correction function kinda like the NUC function of a thermal camera to improve quality from the variation in the photo sensors.
This is really cool!
What if you used just one fast light sensor, and a spinning disc with holes in.
It would be something like the mechanical TV, but in reverse, you could get wayyy more resolution, at least horizontally.
you are a genius, this camera could be handful for making icons stright forward to the computer , and you can use DLSS to upscale them !
You can do a movable 3d printed holder for the PCB and implement some sort of sensor shifting using servos, so you can quadruple your resolution!
Great idea, trying to decide what to do next.
what you could also do is set up an apparatus for the camera to take multiple images slightly moving the camera (reference RhinoCam) and then in photoshop stitch the images together. If you were shooting still images like your mask it could create a larger resolution image. This is such a cool video man really got me thinking about building some of my own stuff.
wow
that was a lot of work
i wonder if you could find some compact single cell memory chips and ADCs to remember the state of sensor at once and be read later
Sobel Edge detection filters are a special Kernel operation which is used on various special effects on image manipulation programs like photoshop. It makes the embossed and blackwhite line drawings from a picture. Anyway, those filters when running the math give you a vector for the gradient direction. This means you should be capable of super scaling the results from this to at least 2-10x its original size without it looking to terrible by using the Sobel to provide you with direction to draw lines one the channel denoting the direction of the edge. I would be interested in programming the software, it would not be difficult as I am curious how well it could be done.
This is incredible. I appreciate the amount of time and work you put into this project! I just learned how CMOS image sensors work, thought about what it would take to design my own camera, and of course someone had already done it. Thanks for sharing the experience, would be awesome to see another video giving mode detail of the design process and issues you ran into while debugging the code.
Still going to make one? You should!
Another improvement could be to use a whole photographic lens, since a 2x magnification essentially throws out 75% of the light. You'd probably need a medium format lens to have a big enough image circle, but old manual focus lenses can be pretty cheap.
Honestly I love this. Very educational. I'm making connections to what I already knew about how cameras and image sensors worked to how lens apature focus. Thank you.
Even a modern full frame camera has a tough time with pinhole levels of light. It might be that even with a long exposure, there is just not enough signal to noise without a much better precision light sensor.
beside the project, this is one of the coolest video production
You can make some colour pictures by using foils with different colours or by changing the flashlight to RGB switching LEDs.
5:47 just for educational purpose: OLED sreens are not LCD. LCD stands for "liquid crystal display" and an OLED consists of self emitting organic LEDs (hence: OLED). The term LCD display does also not exist, if anybody stumbled across that, as the word "display" is included in the acronym. Or in other words: there is no liquid crystal display display. At least it would mean something different. Like a display which only displays liquid crystal displays.
As already noted, some minor code tweaks could make the scanning much faster even just on a 328 Arduino. Using a simple op amp buffer to tweak offset & gain should allow much better dynamic range.
I'd have opted for an ESP32 not just for the increased speed (real time video should easily be achievable) but also for the built-in Wifi. Also, more generally, PlatformIO is much better than the Arduino IDE for anything but the simplest code.
Its a SAMD21, so its not super slow like a 328. The bottleneck is the MUX I think. I'm able to sample ADC way faster but I was getting interference from switching the mux channel faster. Slowing it down is what allowed me to produce the image. There could be some settings I missed, or maybe change some capacitors to a different value. That might speed it up.
Wonderful project. You should visit Tokyo and invite Daido Moriyama to take some street shots with it - he has a thing for placing instinct ahead of equipment, and sometimes uses low-tech. Perhaps a Samuel L Streetlife collab.
0:18 the mouse sensor guess was pretty good
Try putting RGB lenses on front to get color picture. You can watch 8bit guy who did it and it turned out quite good.
Really cool project. I've wondered whether it would be doable and I'm glad that someone went and made such a cool sensor like this.
Question: have you considered replacing the ADC of the Arduino with a dedicated ADC board/module? The Arduino ADC libraries are pretty slow... You can get a speedup of go you lower level and have the ADC perform continous integration and just set a flag when it's done, then have your code check for a flag change to do the read, after having changed your matrix selection and given it a moment to settle.
However, if you do the ADC with a dedicated higher speed ADC board, something in the 100ksps range, you would be able to read out the entire 32x32 matrix much faster. Most of the analog many-to-1 mux's switch in the ns range of speed. You should be able to get the speed of the readout from 2-3 seconds down to tenths of a second or less. An added advantage of that is that you can do frame to frame averaging, so that hot spots and frequency noise can be filtered out in your captures.
Since you know the sensor to sensor distance, if you have a small servo perform a up/down and left/right shift, you can do 4 full frame captures at half sensor distance steps, to 4x your captured pixels. Full step full frame captures to increase your dynamic range per pixel.
Considering that the distance between pixels is fairly large(relatively speaking), if you control the sensor frame with a GRBL type stepper motor controller board and using a small x/y gantry, a typical 1.8 degree stepper motor and micro stepping controller can drive it at 16x. You would get some 200 steps per mm. So let's say you reduce that to around just 8 or 16 steps per mm, you would be able to capture 256x256(with 8 steps per mm) or 512x512(with 16 steps per mm). This increases the capture time and would only work with still life, but definitely makes for a good way to expand the capabilities of the sensor back you made. Ie, use a faster ADC capture to cut down on full frame capture time, then use a moving gantry for the sensor back to increase your resolution of capture, which brings the time back up per "frame", but you get increased resolution....
> higher speed ADC board, something in the 100ksps rang
Even $1 cheap STM32F103 with single-channel ADC (it has 2 which can be interleaved) can get you to hunders of kilosamples/s. That little ATmega328p could do much better, it's his code (being badly written and Arduino) that makes it so uselessly slow. Though truly inspiring project. I'd love to see the final image with resolution increased by shifting the whole assembly.
OMG.. damn hard work u finally done.. your face is telling the story of our hard work behind this result...
lv u bro.. keep it up.. tc care...
Dude.... your stuff is insane. I love it. Please change the world or something
watching in 144p and here we go.. you're on another level
Thats funny!
You can use the camera as color camera by using colour filters and combining them in any photo editing software
This is how technology was developed. Nice work.
wow. happy to see the working of a camera.
really cool! I bet you could make a lens from water somehow. Would need a mirror to have it point out instead of up. Could also use liquid mercury spinning, as in a Liquid-mirror telescope (see the wiki article). Mercury's toxic so maybe a low-melting point alloy of gallium.
05:12 well that looks extremely cool
Thanks!
You can probably double the pixel count by doing the pixel shift trick sony does on their expensive cameras. Just take the same photo with the sensor shifted 1mm on x and y axis. The magic part will be blending the three or five photos (depending on how many shifted shots you take) together.
An analog clock on the wall in the background, for your time lapse would be awesome.
This the kinda art i wanna see in art galleries
I realize it’s four years later. I wonder if you could increase the resolution by developing an algorithm to interpolate the delta between each sensor and its surrounding sensor to create a virtual sensor.
This video is 4 years old...? Where does the time go?
It would be cool to use a different lens setup (more magnification?) and pan the camera using servos to capture details a 'line' at a time. But this would require some post-processing to flatten the image though.
Nice sensor for tracking optical flow.
I wonder how much more difficult would it be to connect the sensor to the backing board flexibly, then have the sensor on a motorized frame that could move the sensor board slightly in multiple calculated in-between positions to capture more pixels :)
If you put a red, green and blue filter in front of the lens and then took one photo for each and combined them in photoshop as each being the respective colour channel you'd have an colour image!