Hello Lantz, Thank you for your informative videos, I love watching, i have just got hold of a 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 that has been partially underwater in a flood 13 months ago and not running for many years before that. I’ve been watching your informative videos instead of the TV.
Thanks Lance for your reply, My tractor belonged to the Brisbane Commercial Hockey Club and its headlights have still got water in them! I finally managed to get all the wheels turning and the motor can now rotate through a full revolution. Also… do you sell manuals for the MF 135 or have any ideas on how to get hold of one? Best regards, Mike
hi Lance i am from ireland. now retired from building construction. i dont comment very often an any video. as i know almost nothing about engines.and so my comments would be useless. however i find your step by step videos and your explaination of how and what is going on and what the parts do extremely interesting and informative. i think at this stage i have watched everyone of your videos including all the stews. ido a little sheep farming well the sheep are regular size i just have a few.. was brought up on a farm. would love to do a restoration some day.
Hi Lance - thanks again for a really informative video as always. Excellent! I’m just beginning the dismantling of our TEF 20C Diesel engine. Even though your Perkins is obviously different, the principles are the same. Hopefully we will get to see how you remove the bearings, pistons and cylinder liners. Thanks again, Stephen
Great videos Lance, you are cranking them out now. :) Progress on our TED20 restoration is a bit slower, but our next video is uploading now and will publish it within the next hour or so. Our bearing saga continues and a nasty discovery too. :(
G'day Lance. I find it interesting that you use a ratchet instead of an air wrench for the disassembly. I am so lazy of course that I feel disadvantaged without power tools.
G Day Harrold, My main nut gun is a bit big and bulky for the small bolts but it can have a tractor wheel off in no time flat. I dont want the compressor kicking in while filming either.
Hi Lance - another couple of great videos (you should get a job on telly!) - have you got a schedule for the order of tractor restoration, or do you work on them as and when?
Hi lance I find your videos very helpful, I have a few mf tractors here on my small farm because my grandfather was a dealer way back when.. any how this video is perfect timing b/c my 135 just lost oil pressure... it's usually near the high side of the gauge, I started her up one aft and the gauge didn't move... so I shut her down. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks from the chilly shores of lake Ontario NY
I would put an oil gauge on it and make sure it is not just the gauge, otherwise oil pump relief valve, but with the somp off check the oil pump pipes have not come adrift.
If dirt get in were the Inspection plate should how would you clean it out without splitting the tractor for on a 290 or can i just put a new plate on it
Do you fill the oil pump with grease so it will prime with no trouble on the first start up or do you have the replacement gaskets and lower end bearings to replace them when the engine starts and will not have any oil pressure at all , after one minute with no oil pressure your rebuild is scrap . Don't ask me how I know but the boss would not listen. lol
Hi Lance, I am wondering if it is possible to remove the crankshaft gear when an AD3.152 engine is intact, minus the timing cover and oil sump. Reason being is that I have some wear on the woodruff key on the crankshaft, and I would like to replace it.
Hello, Bundy.I need your help with something technical.I have an mf240s 1991 tractor with a Lucas Cav fuel pump.the first run is normal, but when he warms up, his idling falls, and if I don't give him gas, he stops.What could be the source of the malfunction?
It sounds like wear in the pump head. To test if it is when it stops, pour cold water over the pump and cool it down then try and start it. If it starts straight away it is pump wear.
@@BundyBearsShed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.
Hey Lance - could you explain this point to us please? Sounds like there's a formula. I'm sure Google knows, but I expect your explanation would be more interesting.
Standard bolt sizes 1/4" bolts have a 7/16 hex, 5/16" have a 1/2" hex and 3/8" have a 9/16 hex. An exception to this is the nuts that hold the fuel lift pump on these engines. The thread is 5/16 unf but as there is a clearance problem they have a 7/16 hex. You dont see that often.
I recently purchased a MF135... stumbled onto your videos... Absolute gold for me. Thanks
Thanks Sidney, I hope they help in some way.
Hello Lantz, Thank you for your informative videos, I love watching, i have just got hold of a 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 that has been partially underwater in a flood 13 months ago and not running for many years before that. I’ve been watching your informative videos instead of the TV.
I hope you get it up and running again.
Thanks Lance for your reply, My tractor belonged to the Brisbane Commercial Hockey Club and its headlights have still got water in them! I finally managed to get all the wheels turning and the motor can now rotate through a full revolution. Also… do you sell manuals for the MF 135 or have any ideas on how to get hold of one? Best regards, Mike
@@mikeoconnor4489 I have a free workshop manual download on my website www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au in the technical section
Two sneaky bolts up the back - you fuggen BEAUTY! Been banging my head against that all day, watched yr vid, mystery bloody well solved 😅😜
Glad it helped.
I think i have the exact same situation right now 😂 i wantet to look for a video cause i fidnt want to damage anything 😅
I throughly enjoy your videos and really appreciate your taking the time and effort to pay so much attention to detail. Thanks
Thanks Richard.
hi Lance i am from ireland. now retired from building construction. i dont comment very often an any video. as i know almost nothing about engines.and so my comments would be useless. however i find your step by step videos and your explaination of how and what is going on and what the parts do extremely interesting and informative. i think at this stage i have watched everyone of your videos including all the stews. ido a little sheep farming well the sheep are regular size i just have a few.. was brought up on a farm. would love to do a restoration some day.
Thanks Martin, Im glad you are enjoying them. I enjoy playing in the shed making them.
Another great video Lance. Enjoying the series immensely. Thank you Mick.
Thanks Mick.
the best videos i have ever seen on how to work on tractors,thanks for all your time you put into the videos,from ireland.
Very welcome
A huge thanx for these great videos. We got MF135 6-speed (-65) and Fordson Super Major (-64). Greetings from the other side, Finland.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching.
I'm really enjoying this series, always looking forward to the next video.
Thanks Dave.
Lance.. I"m really enjoyiing this series, thanks so much for the videos.
Thanks Duncan.
Hi Lance - thanks again for a really informative video as always. Excellent!
I’m just beginning the dismantling of our TEF 20C Diesel engine. Even though your Perkins is obviously different, the principles are the same.
Hopefully we will get to see how you remove the bearings, pistons and cylinder liners.
Thanks again,
Stephen
G Day Stephen, yes coming up soon.
Great videos Lance, you are cranking them out now. :) Progress on our TED20 restoration is a bit slower, but our next video is uploading now and will publish it within the next hour or so. Our bearing saga continues and a nasty discovery too. :(
Thanks Gordon, Ill sneak a look when I get time here at work.
Gracias gracias me ayudo mucho.. Buen video.. Saludos desde Panamá.
Thankyou.
Getting into the nitty gritty Lance 😀
Yep balls and all now.
@@BundyBearsShed 😳😂
G'day Lance. I find it interesting that you use a ratchet instead of an air wrench for the disassembly. I am so lazy of course that I feel disadvantaged without power tools.
G Day Harrold, My main nut gun is a bit big and bulky for the small bolts but it can have a tractor wheel off in no time flat. I dont want the compressor kicking in while filming either.
Wow did not appreciate how many pumps a tractor actually has.
.
Hi Lance - another couple of great videos (you should get a job on telly!) - have you got a schedule for the order of tractor restoration, or do you work on them as and when?
G Day Charles, I just work on what ever part I have parts for or need to measure to order parts, no real plan.
to bad the parts you didnt show are exactly what i was hoping to see, think all the bolts are out, or are some hidden?
Its not hard, just check for all bolts. The videos would not fit on UA-cam if i filmed every little thing though Im afraid.
Hi Lance im from Croatia. Good videos.
Can you tell me why the timeing gear in my MF135 is noisy when the motor is hot.?Thank you!
G Day Dino, Probably just gear back lash from wear. It might be a good thing to run thicker oil.
Hi lance I find your videos very helpful, I have a few mf tractors here on my small farm because my grandfather was a dealer way back when.. any how this video is perfect timing b/c my 135 just lost oil pressure... it's usually near the high side of the gauge, I started her up one aft and the gauge didn't move... so I shut her down. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks from the chilly shores of lake Ontario NY
I would put an oil gauge on it and make sure it is not just the gauge, otherwise oil pump relief valve, but with the somp off check the oil pump pipes have not come adrift.
Ok thanks.. and can you access the oil pump without taking the cover off the front like you did in this video... thanks again
My b275 did not start, find out #3 piston orings was damage, should this be the reason tractor did not fire up?
Yes for sure.
If dirt get in were the Inspection plate should how would you clean it out without splitting the tractor for on a 290 or can i just put a new plate on it
If you are talking about the clutch inspection hole just blow out any dust and replace the plate.
Do you fill the oil pump with grease so it will prime with no trouble on the first start up or do you have the replacement gaskets and lower end bearings to replace them when the engine starts and will not have any oil pressure at all , after one minute with no oil pressure your rebuild is scrap . Don't ask me how I know but the boss would not listen. lol
G Day Frank, I just make sure the oil pump is primed by hand and if it is good enough to use it should hold prime.
@@BundyBearsShed yes, for my money and time a well packed oil pump is like a belt and suspenders lol
They always seem to come apart easier than they go back together...
Im not too sure about that, I just go carefully and it all ends well.
The long pipe on the front of the cover, What is it for?
Just the engine breather.
Hi Lance, I am wondering if it is possible to remove the crankshaft gear when an AD3.152 engine is intact, minus the timing cover and oil sump. Reason being is that I have some wear on the woodruff key on the crankshaft, and I would like to replace it.
Yes that shouldnt be a problem at all .
Hello, Bundy.I need your help with something technical.I have an mf240s 1991 tractor with a Lucas Cav fuel pump.the first run is normal, but when he warms up, his idling falls, and if I don't give him gas, he stops.What could be the source of the malfunction?
It sounds like wear in the pump head. To test if it is when it stops, pour cold water over the pump and cool it down then try and start it. If it starts straight away it is pump wear.
@@BundyBearsShed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.
good vid well done 3/8 bolt =9/16 head 1/4 =7/16 alot call it a 7/16 bolt/// so how u been pop ing an
Thanks Bill.
Hey Lance - could you explain this point to us please? Sounds like there's a formula. I'm sure Google knows, but I expect your explanation would be more interesting.
Standard bolt sizes 1/4" bolts have a 7/16 hex, 5/16" have a 1/2" hex and 3/8" have a 9/16 hex. An exception to this is the nuts that hold the fuel lift pump on these engines. The thread is 5/16 unf but as there is a clearance problem they have a 7/16 hex. You dont see that often.
@@BundyBearsShed a bit on omc 1/4 bolt 3/8 and 5/16 head around the carb
What's the seal serial number
42948
Thanks