Does not get any better,you are a true master of your craft. Your calm and easy going style makes it look deceptively easy but anybody who has done any casting will recognise your skills and how tricky it can be!
WOW it is a pleasure to see a real craftsman at work. and the proper outcome .you are a credit to the human race,i hope that more people with your knowledge and skill post videos like this.we should do everything possible not to let this ability to solve problems die out in the young kids today.thanks you for the video.
The mark of a real expert, making it look easy and producing a thing of beauty from the ordinary and mundane. The halved cylinder metal looked awesome. I would have a plate machined from that, lacquer it and hang it on my wall to admire the beauty of the grain of the metal. Well done again mate. Not many people can melt crankshafts so easy and get the end result spot on.
I have no fucking clue how I ended here but You my friend sound like a savvy, experience and speak like a man with experience not to mention I enjoyed every second of this video.
Initially, I thought maybe the crankshafts were forged steel and that might be the reason for using them. The clock behind the foundry furnace is a great idea, and really helps give context to the process. You are a master, and it's a pleasure to watch you work. Even the small spill wasn't an issue because you were properly dressed and protected. Testing for chilling is something I have never seen done before. Very educational. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time on uploading this very interesting video, it was a joy to watch with your comments and of course the clock in the background giving real time.
You mentioned this was a steam engine cylinder. I would encourage you to post more videos detailing the progress and completion of that entire project. There are many videos of DIY steam engines here. But almost none I've come across involves this level of customization and this kind of refinement. Keep up the awesome work. Looking forward to how this turns out.
Thanks for taking such an analytical approach in your testing. the pour quality was good and it dispenses with many processes. good to see it working. keep up the good work it is appreciated.
I want to try cast Iron in our setup soon. Thanks for up loading this video. It was very good. Quick question. We run our furnace on propane. Would propane get us to the heat we need? Or is oil a necessary fuel? Best Matt
Should I use diesel oil, coal or butane gas? In my Myanmar country, most people use coal. The smell is bad and dusty. What do you recommend? What kind of oil exactly are you using?
Excellent video. It's hard to believe that they used to make bridges out of gray cast iron. Blow holes that came to the surface were patched with "Beaumont's Egg" a mixture of beeswax, fiddler's rosin, & the finest iron boring's melted up & a little lamp black" a dresser at the foundry told the inquiry into the Tay Bridge Disaster in 1880. Amazing how long some of those bridges and buildings stood, or maybe didn't stand with major casting defects.
Cricket sounds in background near the end of video... evidence of your dedication to your trade. Never too late at night to do what you love. Your Video and editing skills are noteworthy as well. Well done sir.
great results, what does the ferrosilicon do? could you use brake discs to melt down and make brake drums or does the material change after its recast?
+Mr Dodge “28 Dodge C Cab” Builder Yes you can use brake discs to melt down but ferrosilicon is added to make sure the iron can be machined. I have never poured a brake drum before so I am not sure how it would turn out.
I just glanced at a couple of the reply posts, I was going to ask where you teach your class? You do a great job of casting and foundry work and You explain how and what to do in simple to understand words yet get your point across so that a person will remember and learn, that part is very important, GREAT job , you deserve to be paid a good salary to teach your artwork, where as most teachers don't care anymore you do care and it shows the way you explain so that a 3rd grade pupil would learn, and that is very hard to do now days
I'm still at the aluminum/brass skill level. Would like to try iron next year so quick question: How do you determine how much ferrosilicon to add? 1%, 2%? Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
One thing you may have forgot, was to heat the crucible without the metal in it, so when it heats up, the metal expansion does not shatter it. Putting the metal in cold was just to determine capacity when adding the chunks later.
thanks for using the clock, I have a question about the timing of the ferrosilicon added, do bigger chunks require a couple more minutes because I noticed you wasted no time after adding yours to pour.
I really found this video helpful for my attempts at iron castings. Could you tell me please, did you put the crucible in from cold? And did you get the first melt 8 mins from then? I find it takes about 3/4 hour from cold in my oil furnace to get a melt and I;ve been wondering if I ought to be getting the furnace up to temperature before I put the crucible in. Thank you
The crucible was placed in the furnace when cold and is full of iron. My furnace uses kaowool for the hot face, so the furnace and crucible heats up very quickly. Are you melting iron in 3/4 hour? That melt took about 36 minutes so if a iron melt takes 45 mins for you it is a reasonable time.
Great video. I have a foundry that I bought many years ago and I am now starting to use it a little. It runs on natural gas and that can only melt aluminum as far as I know. Do you think it would hurt the refractory if I added some oil to the fuel to get it hot enough to melt cast iron?
+luckygen1001 up to now only natural gas. You think propane will get hot enough to melt cast iron? I figured on oil as I have to do oil changes on cars and that would be free fuel.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Oil will get it hot enough. No doubt but your question is can refractory survive with integrity. What your asking is whether an unknown material will hold shape and composition. No one can answer that until you tell them what material it is. Even that may not help. The best thing to do is get a piece of it and elevate its temp to what you need it to be and see how it behaves? How do you do that? With an oxy-acetylene torch. That way you can get close to it and see what is happening.
Did you attach a plinth to the bottom of your crucible on purpose?.. and if so what did you use to attach it?... are there any books you would suggest for casting ferrous metals?
Thanks a lot! you have no idea what your video's can do for a beginner like me. I just saw that you answer most questions diligently and hopefully you will answer my silly questions too? Crankshaft is made of steel, you just melt that steel,can i cast melted steel as it is (without adding ferro silicon) to a desired shape and original strength like it was before? and what is ferro silicon, what is looks like, where can i get it as a DIY guy? thanks.
nice operation,,,, did the crucible base separate away without damage?? Also,, seems to be a massive heat wasteage from furnace?? could you not close down the mouth a little then reduce the heat input?
Great video, just stumbled across this. Very informative with no waffling - brilliant. I am going to build my furnace soon but will probably start small and with aluminium - thanks again.
When did you pour that big piece? It ddn't seem like any of your pours were long enough to put that much iron in a mold except the final pour you dumped in your ingot mold to empty the pot.
Why do homemade casts seem so soft? Is there some part of the process that keeps the metal from annealing into a durable product? Thank you for posting this, I want to melt some metal with a similar set-up and it's really helpful to watch this stuff
When you drill and mention it couldn't be any softer, is that a good thing? Don't you hope it'd be as hard as possible? Also why are the test ingot bars so brittle and porous, why is the metal brighter where it cooled faster?
It has to soft to machine otherwise cutting tools wear out much faster. My castings don't need to be as hard and strong as the crankshaft. Cast iron is porous because of the graphite.
Hi luckygen1001. Happy New Year and Happy Australia Day for tomorrow, 26 Jan. Excellent video, many of us will no doubt be watching this again for tips. What exactly was the ferrosilicone for again?
Aussie Dude that is darn fine work! Nice to see a real expert at work/play. you just make it look so easy so you must be a professional. I know that melting steel is much harder than lead or aluminum
gotta love the ol steel caps....i dont know enough about the chill from the cold steel exxess moulds effect i only know carbon ratios ...e.g. steel and wrought iron spectrum etc....can you direct me to something instructional on pouring cast iron.....all i ever find is pidgin hindu and bearly first year...or people who....."digress"..........keep up the good work and keep showing off them nerves of steel....
+luckygen1001, another really superb video. I have a question though.I note that you say that your furnace is not hot enough to melt forged steel. What temperature would be required to melt and cast steel (I have no interest in iron casting as such but I would like to cast some steel crankshafts)?ThanksLuke
I use a vacuum cleaner as a blower and a 1500 watt will be more than enough to melt cast iron. I use waste oil for melting cast iron, I only use propane for two minutes at the start to warm up the furnace. Waste oil will not burn in a cold furnace.
I was searching "crankshafts" and got this. I don't know where to begin. What's this channel about? Why are you melting cranks? How hot do ya have to get them? How do you make that much heat? How do you melt cranks without melting your stirring rod? What's the crucible made from?? What the heck are you trying to cast??
luckygen1001 Well done about not deleting that incident, so we can all learn about how and when they come to happen. Btw, great procedures and results you have obtained!
Why does the molten iron look like it's actually boiling, like a pot of boil water. Is it just the hot metal rising to the surface then cooling and sinking?
Hmm...at 55, I think I'm far too old (and lazy, and impatient) to start learning metallurgy, patternmaking and foundry, machining, or mechanical engineering NOW. I only got about ten years left in me!🤣
I could not find ferro silicone in my country i have cazted some parts without ferro silicon its impossible to make threads how can i replace ferro silicone ??
Have you ever tried to harden at abaut 1100°C and reheat it to abaut 250-300°C to a industrial usefull hardness ,it wont beak that easey if it works correctly (the mycrocristalls you can see at the point you have broken it are going to get smaller and more tough so you will need more than just a hammer to break it)
Have you ever literally burned the iron?? Some people that I work with use to say that it can be burned exactly like wood under the correct conditions!!
I think I have watched this video like 5 times now, and can't get enough of this one. It has been put together so well, that you make it look so easy, LOL... Nice job. On the left over molten iron, that you poured into ingot molds, were the molds just steel angle iron cupped upwards with end caps, meaning, is so, what prevents the iron from adhering to the molds made of steel? I assume the extreme temp differences between the molten iron to the steel molds prevent sticking? and per, the cooling to fast, can thermal relaxing even that out, or does the iron have to get back to a molten state to eliminate the cold edge?If you add those poured ingots back into the next batch, will the edges that cooled to fast, then become slag or waste material, or will it mix evenly back in to the rest of the pot of molten iron? The dark color, of the edges that cooled to fast, is that excessively brittle? Either way, I watch many other folks's channels involving smelting but this one video, for some reason, everything just looks logical, all the while stimulating a hundred different questions. Oh and preheating of the molds for the overflow, help reduce the cooling down factor? which turns me back to the question above, would that then allow the iron to stick to the mold ,due to the preheat? I want to assume that the iron doesn't want to stick to the steel, maybe due to the contraction differences from the mold and the iron... one is being heated up, and the other is being cooled down?... Dru
I dust talc so the iron does not stick to the ingot mold. Yes they are made from angle iron. If I remelt that chilled iron and pour it into a sand mold it will cool slowly and will not chill.
I have learned quite a bit on the many videos I have watched of yours in just the past few days. Thank you for the effort to put these videos together for all to see and learn...
It is always fascinating watching a master performing his craft
Great video.... Thank you. The clock in the background is a great idea. I wish more videos would do that.
Does not get any better,you are a true master of your craft. Your calm and easy going style makes it look deceptively easy but anybody who has done any casting will recognise your skills and how tricky it can be!
WOW it is a pleasure to see a real craftsman at work. and the proper outcome .you are a credit to the human race,i hope that more people with your knowledge and skill post videos like this.we should do everything possible not to let this ability to solve problems die out in the young kids today.thanks you for the video.
The mark of a real expert, making it look easy and producing a thing of beauty from the ordinary and mundane.
The halved cylinder metal looked awesome. I would have a plate machined from that, lacquer it and hang it on my wall to admire the beauty of the grain of the metal.
Well done again mate. Not many people can melt crankshafts so easy and get the end result spot on.
+Oil Burner Thank you for watching the video. I got another video planned, hopefully it will be more interesting than this one.
+luckygen1001 Personally, I found this vid like all of your vids, very interesting! :0)
+luckygen1001 What did you use to get the iron hot enough to melt?
+Karl Whistler Waste oil was burnt using air from a vacuum cleaner.
Cast iron has no grain. It can be polished or honed or otherwise scratched to appear to have a grain, but only ferrous metals like steel have a grain.
I have no fucking clue how I ended here but You my friend sound like a savvy, experience and speak like a man with experience not to mention I enjoyed every second of this video.
great job. looks great! I worked for a cast iron foundy in the early 1960's. your casting is far better than what we put out!
Initially, I thought maybe the crankshafts were forged steel and that might be the reason for using them. The clock behind the foundry furnace is a great idea, and really helps give context to the process. You are a master, and it's a pleasure to watch you work. Even the small spill wasn't an issue because you were properly dressed and protected. Testing for chilling is something I have never seen done before. Very educational. Thank you!
+HemiRod23 Steel forgings have too high a melting point for my furnace.
I don't know how I ended up here but I thoroughly enjoyed your video.
You must have been well trained to test your material.
Good job.
Love seeing a true Craftsmen at work.
The one percent loss could have been the splatter from the very slight spill when you first picked the heated crucible up....fantastic job!!!
Thank you for taking the time on uploading this very interesting video, it was a joy to watch with your comments and of course the clock in the background giving real time.
A lot have said that the clock is one of the best features in the video.
Now I want to melt lawn mower cranks and cast my own half-inch stroker for my 440 Chrysler! 🤣 Thanks a lot!
Brilliant! Absolutely brilliant presentation of subject matter.
You mentioned this was a steam engine cylinder. I would encourage you to post more videos detailing the progress and completion of that entire project. There are many videos of DIY steam engines here. But almost none I've come across involves this level of customization and this kind of refinement. Keep up the awesome work. Looking forward to how this turns out.
I do have some videos of steam engines that I poured the castings and machine d them.
Hii
Thanks for taking such an analytical approach in your testing.
the pour quality was good and it dispenses with many processes. good to see it working.
keep up the good work it is appreciated.
I want to try cast Iron in our setup soon. Thanks for up loading this video. It was very good. Quick question. We run our furnace on propane. Would propane get us to the heat we need? Or is oil a necessary fuel?
Best Matt
Propane will melt cast iron.
Great. I'm excited to give it a try! Thank you.
Should I use diesel oil, coal or butane gas? In my Myanmar country, most people use coal. The smell is bad and dusty. What do you recommend? What kind of oil exactly are you using?
Excellent video. It's hard to believe that they used to make bridges out of gray cast iron. Blow holes that came to the surface were patched with "Beaumont's Egg" a mixture of beeswax, fiddler's rosin, & the finest iron boring's melted up & a little lamp black" a dresser at the foundry told the inquiry into the Tay Bridge Disaster in 1880. Amazing how long some of those bridges and buildings stood, or maybe didn't stand with major casting defects.
I like the way each scene is set up. I am watching while listening to a podcast and it is fluid.
im so glad people like you still exist. bravo
Cricket sounds in background near the end of video... evidence of your dedication to your trade. Never too late at night to do what you love. Your Video and editing skills are noteworthy as well. Well done sir.
To complete the video I shot the last scenes at night because it was too hot during the day.
great results, what does the ferrosilicon do?
could you use brake discs to melt down and make brake drums or does the material change after its recast?
+Mr Dodge “28 Dodge C Cab” Builder Yes you can use brake discs to melt down but ferrosilicon is added to make sure the iron can be machined. I have never poured a brake drum before so I am not sure how it would turn out.
I echo the other positive respondents. Thank you very much for taking the time and care in producing this video. Very informative.
I just glanced at a couple of the reply posts, I was going to ask where you teach your class? You do a great job of casting and foundry work and You explain how and what to do in simple to understand words yet get your point across so that a person will remember and learn, that part is very important, GREAT job , you deserve to be paid a good salary to teach your artwork, where as most teachers don't care anymore you do care and it shows the way you explain so that a 3rd grade pupil would learn, and that is very hard to do now days
Thankyou!
Fuzzybutt?Lmao
I'm still at the aluminum/brass skill level. Would like to try iron next year so quick question: How do you determine how much ferrosilicon to add? 1%, 2%?
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
I use between 0.25% up to 0.5% ferrosilicon.
@@luckygen1001 Thank you very much!
One thing you may have forgot, was to heat the crucible without the metal in it, so when it heats up, the metal expansion does not shatter it. Putting the metal in cold was just to determine capacity when adding the chunks later.
The crucible did not shatter even though it was not preheated.
Wow that was awesome. No holes in that at all it actually looked like a solid piece of machined steel. Nicely done.
Great to watch a craftsman at work. Even better when the video is so intelligently crafted to.
Does it still have the same chemical and physical properties after the casting as it did when it was a crank shaft?
Not all of the chemical and physical properties are there after casting but it is suitable for what I want.
thanks for using the clock, I have a question about the timing of the ferrosilicon added, do bigger chunks require a couple more minutes because I noticed you wasted no time after adding yours to pour.
+Clarke E Big lumps will dissolve just as quick but you must pour after adding.
I really found this video helpful for my attempts at iron castings. Could you tell me please, did you put the crucible in from cold? And did you get the first melt 8 mins from then? I find it takes about 3/4 hour from cold in my oil furnace to get a melt and I;ve been wondering if I ought to be getting the furnace up to temperature before I put the crucible in. Thank you
The crucible was placed in the furnace when cold and is full of iron. My furnace uses kaowool for the hot face, so the furnace and crucible heats up very quickly. Are you melting iron in 3/4 hour? That melt took about 36 minutes so if a iron melt takes 45 mins for you it is a reasonable time.
can it be melted only with waste oil
Great video. I have a foundry that I bought many years ago and I am now starting to use it a little. It runs on natural gas and that can only melt aluminum as far as I know. Do you think it would hurt the refractory if I added some oil to the fuel to get it hot enough to melt cast iron?
+luckygen1001 up to now only natural gas. You think propane will get hot enough to melt cast iron? I figured on oil as I have to do oil changes on cars and that would be free fuel.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop
Oil will get it hot enough. No doubt but your question is can refractory survive with integrity. What your asking is whether an unknown material will hold shape and composition. No one can answer that until you tell them what material it is. Even that may not help. The best thing to do is get a piece of it and elevate its temp to what you need it to be and see how it behaves? How do you do that? With an oxy-acetylene torch. That way you can get close to it and see what is happening.
You did not mention the refractory. I suppose you figure it can take the extra heat.
Amateur Redneck Workshop Yes refractories for cast iron heat cost a lot more.
I am a welder and I thought video was great.Thanks mate.
Thankyou.
Thats is fantastic pour quality. Great job.
Moronicsmurf so you're saying its not of "pour quality"?
Did you attach a plinth to the bottom of your crucible on purpose?.. and if so what did you use to attach it?... are there any books you would suggest for casting ferrous metals?
No it's not but it is no problem if it is stuck there forever. There are so many of them just look up google.
o cool.. thanks again... have a good one
Thanks a lot! you have no idea what your video's can do for a beginner like me. I just saw that you answer most questions diligently and hopefully you will answer my silly questions too? Crankshaft is made of steel, you just melt that steel,can i cast melted steel as it is (without adding ferro silicon) to a desired shape and original strength like it was before? and what is ferro silicon, what is looks like, where can i get it as a DIY guy? thanks.
Crankshaft is cast iron not steel, ferrosilicon makes cast iron soft. Foundry suppliers have it.
The man knows his trade, that is a perfect cast.
nice operation,,,, did the crucible base separate away without damage?? Also,, seems to be a massive heat wasteage from furnace?? could you not close down the mouth a little then reduce the heat input?
I leave the crucible base on. When using waste oil which costs nothing I don't care if I lose some heat.
Nicely presented. Thank you for sharing all the way through the tests you made.
That is one of the hottest furnaces I've seen yet at home. Well done.
Great video, just stumbled across this. Very informative with no waffling - brilliant. I am going to build my furnace soon but will probably start small and with aluminium - thanks again.
Smart move to start with aluminium it is the easiest to melt. I started that way then tried brass then bronze and finally cast iron.
Well produced and interesting video. Thank you for posting. However I was surprised that the crankshafts were actually cast iron and not steel!
30 years ago I thought the same thing but somebody broke a piece of the crankshaft to show me that it was cast iron.
@@luckygen1001Cast crankshafts are typically nodular iron. Steel crankshafts are forged. GM was big on cast cranks whereas Ford was big on forged.
that was awesome great job mechanic for 40 years
fantastic pour. the gray iron looks perfect
When did you pour that big piece? It ddn't seem like any of your pours were long enough to put that much iron in a mold except the final pour you dumped in your ingot mold to empty the pot.
Every mold filled up despite what you thought.
Gorgeous work! Can’t be done any better!
If you want to look at the metal a different way they can be acid etched but perfect is perfect
Why do homemade casts seem so soft? Is there some part of the process that keeps the metal from annealing into a durable product? Thank you for posting this, I want to melt some metal with a similar set-up and it's really helpful to watch this stuff
Just leave out the ferrosilicon and you will get a durable product.
what kind of wire is that that you use to drop the charges in with?
Copper wire from a car alternator.
When you drill and mention it couldn't be any softer, is that a good thing? Don't you hope it'd be as hard as possible? Also why are the test ingot bars so brittle and porous, why is the metal brighter where it cooled faster?
It has to soft to machine otherwise cutting tools wear out much faster. My castings don't need to be as hard and strong as the crankshaft. Cast iron is porous because of the graphite.
Fantastic work sir. From start to finish
Hi luckygen1001. Happy New Year and Happy Australia Day for tomorrow, 26 Jan.
Excellent video, many of us will no doubt be watching this again for tips.
What exactly was the ferrosilicone for again?
+Mark Fryer It makes the poured cast iron soft to machine in the lathe.
Nice!!!! I enjoyed watching this one, very well put together... I look forward to more.
Great Video. How much Ferrosilicon do you add for the A6?
Cheers
Stephen
About 0.5%.
Thanks very much. Do you know what grade? I'm having trouble sourcing a supply in Western Australia. They only sell 25kg min. Cheers
I use 75% silicon grade. Try to buy a small amount from a local foundry.
I'm in Western Australia as well, keen to share in a source for material please
Why do you put Ferrosilicon? What purpose? To reduce silicon?
Great videos! What is the percentage of ferro silicon that you add to your scrap iron? Thanks, Ken
+Thomas Reed It depends on how hard the iron you are trying to melt, soft irons you can get way with not adding any ferrosilicon.
Aussie Dude that is darn fine work! Nice to see a real expert at work/play.
you just make it look so easy so you must be a professional.
I know that melting steel is much harder than lead or aluminum
The crankshafts I melted in the video were cast iron.
sorry i meant cast iron
Luckygen how much does cast iron shrink when filling up a mould.
If you have a casting 300mm long it will shrink 3mm.
I have to learn how to do this. Thanks for the inspiration, looks amazing.
Those are great looking castings. 35mins from ignition to pour; that's an incredibly hot furnace.
gotta love the ol steel caps....i dont know enough about the chill from the cold steel exxess moulds effect i only know carbon ratios ...e.g. steel and wrought iron spectrum etc....can you direct me to something instructional on pouring cast iron.....all i ever find is pidgin hindu and bearly first year...or people who....."digress"..........keep up the good work and keep showing off them nerves of steel....
What are your molds made of?? For steel can they be made at home I'm interested in make steel weight plates or cast iron
The molds are made from sand and clay to make the mold hold together when extracting the pattern.
Quality stuff son. Well done, nice to see good work and safely done.
thanks brother that is very nice to see,great job!
can i use propane and waste oil at the same time?
Yes you can.
+luckygen1001, another really superb video. I have a question though.I note that you say that your furnace is not hot enough to melt forged steel. What temperature would be required to melt and cast steel (I have no interest in iron casting as such but I would like to cast some steel crankshafts)?ThanksLuke
+Luke Albanese1500C for melting steel and pouring 1700C.
@@luckygen1001 what is source of air and what blow intensity. And what is propan pressure to gave these results ?
I use a vacuum cleaner as a blower and a 1500 watt will be more than enough to melt cast iron. I use waste oil for melting cast iron, I only use propane for two minutes at the start to warm up the furnace. Waste oil will not burn in a cold furnace.
Do u use propane or waste oil to melt iron?
Propane is used to warm up the furnace I then use waste oil to melt iron.
it took me 35 years back in school ?!!
thanks mate
Farmcraft sent me here from his bronze cannon vids!
I was searching "crankshafts" and got this. I don't know where to begin. What's this channel about? Why are you melting cranks? How hot do ya have to get them? How do you make that much heat? How do you melt cranks without melting your stirring rod? What's the crucible made from?? What the heck are you trying to cast??
I expected you to start dancing when that splash happened. Not doing so was far more suprising. Must have very good boots.
The drops of liquid iron cool down very quickly before they can do any damage.
Doc Pedersen I
luckygen1001 Well done about not deleting that incident, so we can all learn about how and when they come to happen.
Btw, great procedures and results you have obtained!
You are very talented. Thanks for posting this video!
So what is the crucible made of exactly?, seems like it must be impressive metal!
MilesDei Clay
Clay graphite.
Looks like a Clausing Colechester lathe. 13x36? Gap bed. About 1965? Really like mine, I have two although they are not the gap bed version. .
On the end of the bed it is stamped 1966, you were very close. I found them to be a very useful lathe in my workshop.
Looks like a very successful pour
Why does the molten iron look like it's actually boiling, like a pot of boil water. Is it just the hot metal rising to the surface then cooling and sinking?
The cast iron is not boiling but this is what very hot molten cast iron looks like.
Referring to you as Hephaestus, Greek god of fire and metalworking. My dinky work with aluminum and copper is pale in comparison. Stay awesome.
Incredible. Good job!
Good on ya mate! I'm an American, I just like saying that. Translation, Damn nice work!
Great video; learned at least 3 things I would otherwise have screwed up! :-)
Compliments from aerospace and strategic materials melter. Armco Steel Research and Technology. VIM
Thankyou for watching my video.
8.20 sounds great. Well done, mate.
what a great job many people have lost these skills
Maybe not many had them in the first place! I hope those three-dee printers work out, because if not this guy is going to be very busy!
Hmm...at 55, I think I'm far too old (and lazy, and impatient) to start learning metallurgy, patternmaking and foundry, machining, or mechanical engineering NOW. I only got about ten years left in me!🤣
Voce tem algum video. Fundindo nodular. Ou voce poderia por favor me dizer a proporçao?
Nunca fabriquei ferro nodular.
Thanks for sharing. The cross-section was very interesting to see. I'd braze it back together, rebore and put in a steel liner :)
+Mayhem It would be quicker to recast another cylinder.
Hats off anybody, a master at work.
Why the ferr silicon is always added in last?
Because the modification it does to the iron lasts about 5 minutes.
What's the crucible made from that it doesn't melt?
Clay graphite.
Bite size chunks? I want to see your plumbing.
make a video on that furnace. how much was it and where did buy it
I made it. Video of furnace ua-cam.com/video/MgsU5EibFbA/v-deo.html
Me responda umq coisa quero fundir um modelo de tranca e fundido nodular como de vo fazer o ajuste de liga sendo. A tranca vai pesar um. 1 kg
Não consigo fazer ferro nodular nesse video.
Why add silicon? And is the final piece heat-treatable?
What type of iron are crankshafts made of?
Looks like malleable cast iron. He's treating it as cast iron here.
I could not find ferro silicone in my country i have cazted some parts without ferro silicon its impossible to make threads how can i replace ferro silicone ??
Which country do live in? You could also try ebay.
WOW, now that's a heat proof glove!!
cast iron or steel?
Cast iron.
Have you ever tried to harden at abaut 1100°C and reheat it to abaut 250-300°C to a industrial usefull hardness ,it wont beak that easey if it works correctly (the mycrocristalls you can see at the point you have broken it are going to get smaller and more tough so you will need more than just a hammer to break it)
No I have never tried to heat treat my iron castings.
Incredible. Maybe overhead track to help with weight of crucible full.
Have you ever literally burned the iron?? Some people that I work with use to say that it can be burned exactly like wood under the correct conditions!!
Every time I melt iron some of it burns, that is where the slag comes from. When you use oxygen to cut steel it is burning it not melting it.
What type of locomotive will this be used on?
It is for a stationary engine not a locomotive.
I think I have watched this video like 5 times now, and can't get enough of this one. It has been put together so well, that you make it look so easy, LOL... Nice job. On the left over molten iron, that you poured into ingot molds, were the molds just steel angle iron cupped upwards with end caps, meaning, is so, what prevents the iron from adhering to the molds made of steel? I assume the extreme temp differences between the molten iron to the steel molds prevent sticking? and per, the cooling to fast, can thermal relaxing even that out, or does the iron have to get back to a molten state to eliminate the cold edge?If you add those poured ingots back into the next batch, will the edges that cooled to fast, then become slag or waste material, or will it mix evenly back in to the rest of the pot of molten iron? The dark color, of the edges that cooled to fast, is that excessively brittle? Either way, I watch many other folks's channels involving smelting but this one video, for some reason, everything just looks logical, all the while stimulating a hundred different questions. Oh and preheating of the molds for the overflow, help reduce the cooling down factor? which turns me back to the question above, would that then allow the iron to stick to the mold ,due to the preheat? I want to assume that the iron doesn't want to stick to the steel, maybe due to the contraction differences from the mold and the iron... one is being heated up, and the other is being cooled down?... Dru
I dust talc so the iron does not stick to the ingot mold. Yes they are made from angle iron. If I remelt that chilled iron and pour it into a sand mold it will cool slowly and will not chill.
I have learned quite a bit on the many videos I have watched of yours in just the past few days. Thank you for the effort to put these videos together for all to see and learn...