I know this is a bit late... but I had to say. I've figured out a way to disable current limiting really easily. Basically instead of the power ground wire going after the current shunt, move it to one of the heavy gauge traces from the source pin of the mosfet. This way, the tl494 still gets power, and there is no way of measuring current.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!! Sometimes my husband looks at me like I'm crazy when I try to explain to him the whole process of my new project. Thank you again!
Thanks for the fun video! A few years ago someone gave me an e100, batteries dead and no charger. I have been thinking about getting it running lately. Yesterday I was watching this video it was Friday afternoon, I decided to look on the buy n sell here in Canada Kijiji for an e300, found an e200 for $20 snagged it on the way home from work. I have two 18 volt drill batteries for it. Now thanks to you I know how to get it to work with 36 volts. Thanks dude!
Probably! Start by Googling to see what others have done. Failing that, research how the scooter works - motor type, controller type, batteries, etc. and then see where you can make improvements from there.
I've just recently had a similar controller to repair. It is very similar to the one shown here. The Relay on the one I had is controlled by two transistors; one (a pnp) is switched on when you initially give the scooter a push and the other (an npn) is switched on by a small microcontroller (8 pin, no marking). The purpose of the micro controller is to make sure the throttle isn't engaged when power is switched on, and the voltage isn't out of range). Removing the micro controller (it had failed anyway) left the relay controlled only by the act of initially giving the scooter a push (by an LM393 comparator, also an 8 pin IC). The c+ and c- pads are for altering the current theshold, I didn't remove it but the white component bridging one set of pads looks like a suface mount resistor, mounted upside down. On mine the c-, lowers the maximum motor current when a resistor is placed across it (goes in parallel with a 360 Ohm resistor to ground), and the c+ increases the maximum motor current when bridged by a resistor (goes in parallel with a 22k resistor to 5v). The junction of the 22k and 360 ohm resistors goes to pin 2 of the TL494 and is the set point for the motor current detection. Maybe this will help someone - provided anyway as it took several days to draw out enough of the schematic of the controller and repair it (minus the microcontroller - it works without the minor safety features, and you still need to give the scooter a push before power is applied, unlike when just bypassing the relay). My particular board had FLY04142016 printed on it. The scooter was one of these (terribly cheap chinese speed controller for the price!): JDBUG Fun series E-scooter, 24V 5.0Ah lead acid battery. I believe it's an older model now.
@@WhatUpTKHere hey man I know this is super late but I tried the mod to disable the 24 watt box to use my 10s2 lithium batteries. The mod work to disable the box but the second mod for the current did not work for me. I tried to disable it completely by running ground wire to the source pin of the mosfet but that did not work. And I tried to parallel the shunt to double the current and that didn't work either. I'm thinking my battery is are too weak because it runs when I hold the throttle for as long as I can hold it but when I sit on it and try to move it cuts off
Nice bro. I'm 48 years old and have been working with electronic computer boards, relays, contactors, capacitors, etc. for many years now. What you did to that speed controller / electronic interface board was awesome. Even when you tried a couple of different things that didn't work out, you pulled the schematic of the part and finally figured it out. You are wise beyond your years in this field and should be able to land "one hell of a job" in this field. Either that or start your own company and cash in on your knowledge. The majority of people have know clue as to what or how you did what you did. Thanks for the video and info and God Bless
I just did this and built a 7S4P pack that will give you 21-29.4v and over 10ah with plenty of space for more. The OEM controller didn't mind as the difference is not a whole 'wodge' of voltage. My E300 is an older model and the controller did look a little different though. I did increase the size of the shunt on the controller with a piece of cooper wire soldered in and got a little bit more amperage too which helped tons. Great video series!
Good to hear! Mucking around with electronics is great fun, keep yourself aware of the potential pitfalls and safety risks and you'll have no problem :) I wouldn't call myself a genius, just a guy who's been hacking on scooters for a good long time now!
You should do a dedicated video on the speed controller mods and how to do them. Good video been looking for this information for a while time to mod my scooter. Also good to know its capable of well over standard voltage.
Remove the tires and put 10" that can hold more , I have one and they are more steady with 10" tires and you will go really fast and the module control holds really good .if you run this for long distance will over heat
36v is just nominal voltage, at full charge it's actually 42 volts! I am quite surprised it worked on only single cell in series, also wondering since I'll be building my own pack if should just connect 7 cells to get nominal voltage of 25.9V and double up in parallel to get more current, maybe even go 8s2p.
already done that and my little pulse lightning with stock 24v 100w motor is still running with two makita 18v 4.0 A li-ion batteries in series. I only weigh 115 lbs so when fully charged at 20.3v a piece, I can reach 27mph. just a push button wired directly to the motor and batteries.
+Steve Auguste yeah those tool batteries are something else, but I stopped using them. the scooter will run until there's power left and lithium ion cuts off when very low and that's when one of my makita battery ($100 a piece for these 3ah makitas)got fully drained and killed 6 cells inside, including the charging circuitry. what I'm into now is three 12v plus one 6v, all 8ah, maxing out at 46v fully charged to the same stock 24v 250watts stock e300 motor. I changed the wheel sprocket from the original 55 tooth to 47 tooth that came from the pulse lightning. had to enlarge the inside diameter using 2 1/8" bi metal hole saw and just refined it with a half round file. the result of these higher voltage and sprocket combination was hair raising, as the e300 now can run at max speed of 33mph (via gps speedometer) and it's about time to change the motor sprocket to a 15 tooth, 1 3/8" diameter, from 11 tooth 1". it might pull near 40 but I doubt it unless the motor is swapped with a higher wattage, say about 500watts. when start hitting the 30mph range, riding becomes scary, cars pulling up from corners, people walking and dangerous bumps even small at speed, that small of a tire inflated 45psi can jerk you and your eyes are always looking forward, can't even glance the side views usually done when running slow. I've forgotten how to post videos on UA-cam (fyi- I will be 51 years old this December)and don't have anybody to ask to film me
+ T C Woodworks and Design Quick questions: 1)the "three 12v plus one 6v, all 8ah" are drill batteries? 2)changing sprockets made the scooters faster? 3)could you put the camera on something with height (like on top of a box) and angle the camera to catch you going down the street? PS. I can help you upload the video once #3 is done! :)
+Steve Auguste batteries are all sla. but there's a better alternative, lighter and safer than lithium ion- check out lithium phosphate. same size as sla, very light, 12.8v and you can charge it with the regular sla charger. the reduction of the wheel sprocket made it faster but at the same time consumes more power and I would imagine enlarging the motor sprocket will do the same. that's why, opting for a higher wattage is a solution, a 500w motor can take up to 52v with no problem and less heat plus more power in oppose to a 250w that heats up pretty fast in the upper 40s voltage. the higher the wattage the more you can overvolt. but I will do what you suggest, to just place the camera at a certain spot to catch me getting closer to it and a driveby shot.
Since you seem to be very knowledgeable with the 300; can you help me with a problem my son is having. His scooter has new batteries, fully charge. When turning throttle, rear tires will spin fast, but when he gets on scooter, not enough power to move. ??? What do you think, need new throttle, or new controller. Hope you can help. Thanks
Sounds like it's current limiting (or maybe voltage limiting) for some reason. Hard to say without seeing it and doing some tests. Maybe controller dead, but can't be sure. Hope you can figure it out!
May you help me, please? When you mentioned wired the sense lead going to the shut directly to the ground. Was it the black wire? May I have a close picture of the wire diagram, please?
If you want to completely disable current limiting (I don't recommend it) find the connection from the mosfet side of the shunt to the IC. Separate the connection. Ground the pin of the IC that was connected there. Adding the wire as you did is the same thing as paralleling a wire with the shunt since one end of the shunt is to battery negative.
I have two 12.4V LiFePo4 batteries connected in series and I want to use a lithium ion charger of 29.4V 2 Amps... If I connect the charger to the E300 scooter will it charge the battery without turning off the controller ? I just need to charge the batteries with the above config.... So question is will it charge the batteries safely using the same controller ?
How many ohms resistance is that shunt because I removed mine completely and shorted (M-) to ground. Now i'm thinking I messed up somewhere because the wheel isn't spinning like if you touched the terminals on the motor wires together.
So that’s not the right way to do it. From the sounds of it, you’ve shorted the motor lead to ground. You can leave the shunt there, and in fact, you need to. It’s part of the circuit between the FET and motor. What you’re supposed to do for this hack is cut the sense wire coming off the shunt - it’s a small, fine trace coming off the shunt. Then, on the side of the trace you just cut, the side that goes to the TL494 IC, tie that to ground. That makes the TL494 think there’s zero voltage drop across the shunt, and thus there’s no current flow, so it doesn’t shut off due to over current. Diagram here hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt Do this at your own risk, it can lead to the motor going full throttle if the FET blows.
Are there any guidelines or maths for doing this and getting repeatable results? Do I just need to wire up a watt meter and play with shit? I just picked up a e300 and I'd like to get some more range and speed out of it, mostly range. But I don't want to deal with buying hobby lipos and replacing controllers right now. How much can the stock electrics be pushed before I start worrying about melting things?
Hi TK. I have tested with a 36-volt LEAD battery on my 24 volts, 7Ah( standard scooter e300 and stock 24-volt speed controller) and it works very well with no issues. I am planning to try a 36-volt HONME BUILD lithium battery. I need your suggestion before I start to build my battery. Will it work with a 36-volt lithium battery? Any further modification on the speed controller?
I tried that, you can't. A faster one (8 MPH maximum compared to 4 MPH) has a different ratio gear box. Connecting the batteries directly to the motor doesn't increase the speed of the wheels. If you want faster, start with an 8MPH mobility scooter, and put some larger diameter wheels on it (the rear, driven wheels). In the UK where I am, you can drive a 4 MPH mobility scooter with no restrictions, but an 8MPH one can only be driven on the road and needs to be registered as a road vehicle, you do not pay road tax though. You are also meant to be genuinely disabled to drive one too, but I had fun driving round the supermarket and having people offer to help with things. They were a little upset when I got out and did things for myself, before I explained I was just on my way to deliver the scooter to someone that had had their own scooter break down.
or you can just increase the ah of the batteries! what I did is: I have two scooters and I took the batteries out from the one and put them all on one I left it with 24v but it got 14 ah instead of 7 ah it made it faster and the runtime is way longer the torque is much better too I didn't have to modify the controller
So, the speed controller is the little black box with the metal line things on top? Can i take it out and have the scooter still work? Is that why mine is so SLOW? I would love some advice on that
Wild Gaming the speed controller is what takes signals from the throttle and sends power to the motor. It isn't the main reason why the scooter is slow - that's largely down to motor and batteries. I modify the speed controller in future episodes to handle more power, but it's complex. I'll be releasing a video soon on a more accessible DIY mod for more speed.
I have two of these that i got from the dump for free and they both work. I wonder can i add a second motor onto the scooter for twice the power and use four battery packs? Ima try your mod first tho. Great video!! Subbed.
I’m trying to convert our 350mx razor dirt bike for kids to take my 18v ryobi batteries, I’m a newby to electronics. The board seems to be the same S the scooter as they are both 24v razor products, I’m confused on the last step you did to bypass the bridge, can you walk me through step by step on what you did for that?
Got one for you, I want to wire 3 or 4 lithium battery packs 36v each, meant for the mi electric scooters, they each have a little circuit board, not sure what they’re for. I need to wire them in parallel to run a razor mx-650 longer. Can you give that a go?
I did this to an E325 it flies now. But it will turn off every minute or so for 2-3 seconds. I'm assuming it's getting to hot and tripping the breaker. I'm wondering how dumb wiring a 30amp breaker would be. Edit* All factory just 2 18v Milwaukee 5ah batteries.
I was considering doing this to a 10$ Razor pocket mod. It looks easy to slide out, charge or swap. And this looks nicer than my Tesla battery idea from cost.
I heard only so much power goes to the motor Not the entire voltage of the battery. The ESC can be modded to pass more amps. Also the throttle might be worn out.
Hi mate, love your vids, very informative. Just trying to work out exactlywhat you did to get it to take more current, ie the bit where you added the white wire (sorry I'm just a dumb civil engineer). On the left hand end of the added white wire did you cut the hard piece of standard wire and then add the white? Or just join the white without cutting anything? And then the right end of the white wire, what exactly did you join that too?
hey , I have bought one recently and am trying to upgrade it ,I would like to upgrade the whole system though. could try and make a video calling those lines? thanks
@@WhatUpTKHere Thanks for letting me know, great series of vids on this!, I picked one up cheap and have been working on it, geared it down alil (65T), but plan to use two 4s 5A lipo packs I have after doing the overvolt and over current mods on the controller. For now have 2 lifep04 12v packs in it, but looking for alil more speed..
hey just a quick question: I did not fully get the 2 points in which u souldered together in the last step could you explain a bit more and great video thanks
Hi Angela, for more detail on the mod check out www.google.com.sg/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt&ved=0ahUKEwjL58CfwcPVAhVFPI8KHaR0BuQQFggjMAA&usg=AFQjCNGPIaDH5KSIYM5CjaCK2ZwgSNXUnw Hope that helps :D
i keep watching these videos on repeat and i have a question. i have an e300s and the esc isnt the same one as you have i wish i could upload a pic of it but i dont know where to solder for the bypass ....
Hi! I am from Germany and i speak German and a little bit Englisch. My English is not good, i speak a little bit. My Mega Motion electric scooter doesn't turn on anymore, I've had it for 1 year. IM very desperate!! Maybe you can translate my German into English with the Google app, for example. In your video in the minute 3:30 pm I also have these cables and these yellow colored plugs and this silver part with all the plugs and cables at minute 3:30 pm that you screwed on and where the cables are all inside. Red, yellow etc. And then with 4 screws the blue long battery pack with 4 screws. Question: Which cable is responsible for switching on the electric scooter or which could be broken. The charger charges normally red and when it is full, then green. So the battery is full and was still full before. I beg your help so much. Usually when I put the round plug of the charger into the scooter at the bottom left, I always heard a "clack"! And now when I plug the charger into the scooter the round cable at the bottom left, I don't hear it! not "clack" or "click".
Hi! It looks like you changed the chain drive to belt drive, is that right? I was hoping to do this to try and make the scooter quieter. Would you mind pointing me in the right direction?
Still running the stock drive, I would have filmed it if I changed it. If you want to do that I'd say go buy a whole bunch of hardware from McMaster Carr (who don't ship to Aus, grr) or another mechanical parts place. Somewhere that sells belts and toothed pulleys and so on. My old scooter I built had belt drive... there were slipping issues and it wasn't that much quieter. I'd say try and adjust and maintain yoir chain drive if it's too loud, first.
Check lubrication, if it's running "true" (i.e. sprockets are aligned), check it's not too tight or too loose. Check all bearings for lubrication and condition too.
FYI i myself did this very same thing, (2x18 Dewalt). Much success in the end . However at full speed didn't gothe distance. , increased speed subtract distance. so run withall 4 batteries. when 36 dies plug in reserve 24
I just got a used Razor e300 And want to increase the range of the current system which I can ant to use it to push my golf push cart with my golf bag I don’t need more speed, just longer range. Please lead me to accomplish this Need lithium batteries?
Hey TK watch your video pretty cool and interested would like to do mine but would like to know what you did with your diagram and your speed controller board might be controllable is the same as yours I have a E200 but for some reason when you stepped on it it's closed right down it does not go any farther when you hold it up it keeps on spinning the wheel but as soon as you stepped in it it's closed right down any tips can help me would love to do my mod as yours thanks will really appreciate if you help me out
Thank you for making these videos, it’s really useful and fun to watch at the same time. I do think I have the same problem. I installed 26Ah batteries and it smelled a bit burned each time I rode it. After about a week it stopped working completely and it must be the controller right?
I did this with a PR200, just overvolt. But I have been wanting to do this with the 4AH kobolt lithium battery packs. The only thing is, they are only 4AH which I have 10AH right now. Meaning less distance. Been wanting to try though. Replace the controller though. They don't like overvolting.
To limit the effect the current shunt, just (on the solder side of the PCB), short the shunt pins with a length of copper wire. The current sense will say to itself, man this motor is very efficient, and not bother You.. Ken !;!
wish my professor wouldn't have talked me out of electrical engineering 10 yrs ago thanks DOC. Nice video learned lots thanks. there might only be 0100000 who understand.
hello I hope you can help me since I see that you know a lot about electronics I have a scooter miku max motor bosch 800w and in no forum or video there is information on how to disable remove or bridge for the speed limiter is not for me to do it racing but it is limited to 45km / h and traffic in my city becomes slow and dangerous
If you just want longer run time, I'd suggest swapping in 6S or 8S (or 2x4S) lithium packs with as much capacity as possible. That way you won't really be overstressing the controller but you'll have way more Ah (amphours) to play with in a smaller space and lighter weight than the stock SLA packs. You may still need to bypass the overvolt protection if you go 8S but it's workable.
Hey TK, I just picked up a Razor drift gocart for $20. Same controller. So, while I had it open trying to find the fault, I made the same mods as you. I'll convert it to lithium later perhaps.
+TK It goes poorly! I added another 12v battery for a total of 36v... and it worked fine for a while on the desk, but when i went to ride it, as soon as I turned it on it locked on and only the main power switch shut it off. Ever since, it's maxed on as soon as it has power. Even if I disconnect everything from the harness except battery and motor. I think perhaps I blew the mosfet?
+MattsAwesomeStuff oh dear! Yep, when MOSFETs fail in brushed motor controllers they almost always lock hard on and that would explain the behaviour you're seeing. Perhaps spec yourself a nice highly rated replacement part and replace the FET? Should be able to drop something right in :)
+TK How about paralleling FETs? I see that all the time... do I need to change the circuit at all to do that, or can i just throw a bunch of others in a row to help beef it up?
+MattsAwesomeStuff you couuuuuld possibly do that. you'd want to make sure you were still able to heatsink the extra FETs and you may have trouble with the gate drive not liking the extra FETs - I don't have experience with that sort of set up exactly! Looking at the data sheet may give an example with multiple FETs.
i have a e100 and im trying to get more juice out of it. the control board does not look anything like yours. It seems like it has 2 relays but not sure where or how i can bypass it like you did.
+Nacho Loza Hi! Yes, the E300 is a completely different scooter to yours. Bypassing the relays won't do anything to make the scooter faster on an E300 anyway, it's only there as a safety cutout. You need to bypass it to make the scooter work with higher voltages (but you'll likely blow everything up anyway doing that, as the series shows). E100s aren't as popular for modification but you could have a Google to see what can be done. :)
Bro,your a legend. I bought a Helix Scooter from Big W here in Adelaide yesterday for $99,it can take up to 68kg and I'm 63 and it's SO for SLOW😢 How can I make mine quicker? I'm really stuck and gave googled and looked on here. Awesome Video.
So you can try replacing the speed controller and batteries, at which point you may blow the motor up but I did exactly that and still had a good time. :P
Not sure how it worked because I cut the exact same trace and me controller was dead so did the obvious option and bought a controller 1000w 36v then it fried the Motor 🤷 brush less it is now
This is the most amazing UA-cam video I've ever watched you get right to the point of what it is you're trying to do and the obstacles that you have to overcome people will get on UA-cam and they'll talk about fucking bullshit that you've already read about that you already know about and just keep regurgitating bullshit and you get right to the fucking source of it you're awesome man
Gave it a try but im pretty sure i broke it... Oops! just makes a click coming from the "fun police" box when i engage the throttle. Thanks for the tips and im sure i just didnt follow you close enough. I knew the risk i was taking and tbh i would definitely try it again if i had the chance.
Hi David, sorry to hear it's not working out for you! If it's making a click sound, that sounds like it's the relay shutting off because it's detecting too much voltage being put in. As you know, we bypassed that in this video. Perhaps you just haven't quite bypassed it correctly? If nothing's getting hot or smoking, you probably haven't blown anything up. :) You can read the project logs here which may help you out with some illustrated diagrams - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt Just be careful of course, as these batteries can be dangerous and if the speed controller blows a FET while you're driving, it'll stick at full throttle which can be dangerous. Play with the scooter at your own risk :P
TK Fixed it! It was just a bad soldering job by me! I'm actually using the parts and mods from an old e300 to power my "new" E-bike! Probably a little safer as my brakes can over power the friction drive setup just in case bad things happen! I'm looking into using 18650's. Have you worked with them much?
David DeMarta that's awesome dude! Glad we could trouble shoot that over comments haha, that's so cool. As far as 18650s go, I haven't used them, but I've heard of people building eBike packs using them.
The stock batteries are 7 Ah, these are only about 1.5 Ah. Ride time is about 10-15 minutes. I used these as a proof-of-concept before I dropped coin on a beefier set of LiPos. I'm now just waiting on parts to complete the conversion and shoot a new video :)
+TK cool! I've added a 300w motor in place of my 100w on my e100 and bought two 18ah lawn mower batteries. very heavy but I get about 15mph for a solid two hours
I got 2 e100 for just about free. cut them to add them together ( made it longer ) added 2 more batteries in a series, 48v. tossed the servo/speed controller out and bang. A scooter that will push a 200lb man with ease. around 20mph
This video made me do the shunt mod. Now my bike is alot more agressive, uses more battery power, but the same top speed on the straight and flat, 50kph.
What Up TK Here ru.aliexpress.com/item/New-electric-wheel-motor-10-inch-electric-bike-kit-elecric-bicycle-robot-wheelchair-wheel-motor-36v/32694303074.html?spm=a2g0v.search0104.3.17.c5e594b2fGIstY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10340_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10869_10868_5723320_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_46,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=03eed801-0170-48cb-85a7-d1aeed02678f-2&algo_pvid=03eed801-0170-48cb-85a7-d1aeed02678f&transAbTest=ae803_1&priceBeautifyAB=0
"Its actually cool that they've gone through all this effort to keep water out of the controller". Haha. No that's the best they can do without a permanent seal to keep Gear head hackers like us from digging in to see what kind of mods we can cook up quick lol.. subbed cuz you ain't scared to dig into something and make it or plan to make it push the limits.
Parts links in the description for people eager to replicate this at home!
can i do this to a E100 ? Becuz im 700 pounds and im going to need a ride to my Husky Hoes strip club with the all you can eat Buffet
I learned so much by watching the breakdown of the circuits within the speed controller. Thanks!
Yay! I'm glad :D
I know this is a bit late... but I had to say. I've figured out a way to disable current limiting really easily. Basically instead of the power ground wire going after the current shunt, move it to one of the heavy gauge traces from the source pin of the mosfet. This way, the tl494 still gets power, and there is no way of measuring current.
How do I go about doing that?
@@carvenature Shouldnt be too hard! Black wire from the motor desoldered from the circuit board, resolder on the other end of the shunt resistor.
@@BobsEVGarage thank you kind sir I will try that out 🙏
@@carvenaturedid it work?
@@carvenaturehey did u do it?
Did it work?
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!! Sometimes my husband looks at me like I'm crazy when I try to explain to him the whole process of my new project. Thank you again!
See Vang haha, glad you dig it - thanks!
Thanks for the fun video! A few years ago someone gave me an e100, batteries dead and no charger. I have been thinking about getting it running lately. Yesterday I was watching this video it was Friday afternoon, I decided to look on the buy n sell here in Canada Kijiji for an e300, found an e200 for $20 snagged it on the way home from work. I have two 18 volt drill batteries for it. Now thanks to you I know how to get it to work with 36 volts. Thanks dude!
No problem! They’re so cheap second hand, hey :D
Hello, I need help. I have a Ezip E500 electric scooter. Is there any way to increase the speed?
Probably! Start by Googling to see what others have done. Failing that, research how the scooter works - motor type, controller type, batteries, etc. and then see where you can make improvements from there.
I've just recently had a similar controller to repair. It is very similar to the one shown here. The Relay on the one I had is controlled by two transistors; one (a pnp) is switched on when you initially give the scooter a push and the other (an npn) is switched on by a small microcontroller (8 pin, no marking). The purpose of the micro controller is to make sure the throttle isn't engaged when power is switched on, and the voltage isn't out of range). Removing the micro controller (it had failed anyway) left the relay controlled only by the act of initially giving the scooter a push (by an LM393 comparator, also an 8 pin IC). The c+ and c- pads are for altering the current theshold, I didn't remove it but the white component bridging one set of pads looks like a suface mount resistor, mounted upside down. On mine the c-, lowers the maximum motor current when a resistor is placed across it (goes in parallel with a 360 Ohm resistor to ground), and the c+ increases the maximum motor current when bridged by a resistor (goes in parallel with a 22k resistor to 5v). The junction of the 22k and 360 ohm resistors goes to pin 2 of the TL494 and is the set point for the motor current detection. Maybe this will help someone - provided anyway as it took several days to draw out enough of the schematic of the controller and repair it (minus the microcontroller - it works without the minor safety features, and you still need to give the scooter a push before power is applied, unlike when just bypassing the relay). My particular board had FLY04142016 printed on it.
The scooter was one of these (terribly cheap chinese speed controller for the price!): JDBUG Fun series E-scooter, 24V 5.0Ah lead acid battery. I believe it's an older model now.
Wow, top work!
@@WhatUpTKHere hey man I know this is super late but I tried the mod to disable the 24 watt box to use my 10s2 lithium batteries. The mod work to disable the box but the second mod for the current did not work for me. I tried to disable it completely by running ground wire to the source pin of the mosfet but that did not work. And I tried to parallel the shunt to double the current and that didn't work either. I'm thinking my battery is are too weak because it runs when I hold the throttle for as long as I can hold it but when I sit on it and try to move it cuts off
Nice bro. I'm 48 years old and have been working with electronic computer boards, relays, contactors, capacitors, etc. for many years now. What you did to that speed controller / electronic interface board was awesome. Even when you tried a couple of different things that didn't work out, you pulled the schematic of the part and finally figured it out. You are wise beyond your years in this field and should be able to land "one hell of a job" in this field. Either that or start your own company and cash in on your knowledge. The majority of people have know clue as to what or how you did what you did.
Thanks for the video and info and God Bless
skyym3 thanks man! most kind words. I do enjoy mucking around with the ol' electrons ;D
I just did this and built a 7S4P pack that will give you 21-29.4v and over 10ah with plenty of space for more. The OEM controller didn't mind as the difference is not a whole 'wodge' of voltage. My E300 is an older model and the controller did look a little different though. I did increase the size of the shunt on the controller with a piece of cooper wire soldered in and got a little bit more amperage too which helped tons. Great video series!
Nice mods! Appreciate the kind words :)
I just got two of these - I already took apart the speed controller and was going to bypass the relay as well. You just gave me a bunch of ideas ;)
Thanks for watching!
I was worried about properly installing basic replacement batteries and watching this gave me some confidence. Thanks. Are you a genius?
Good to hear! Mucking around with electronics is great fun, keep yourself aware of the potential pitfalls and safety risks and you'll have no problem :)
I wouldn't call myself a genius, just a guy who's been hacking on scooters for a good long time now!
You should do a dedicated video on the speed controller mods and how to do them. Good video been looking for this information for a while time to mod my scooter. Also good to know its capable of well over standard voltage.
Thanks! Definitely check the rest of the videos out for more on speed controller hacks. :)
Remove the tires and put 10" that can hold more , I have one and they are more steady with 10" tires and you will go really fast and the module control holds really good .if you run this for long distance will over heat
Lmao 1:27 “…frankly, I don’t care” earned my subscribe
Welcome aboard ;D
36v is just nominal voltage, at full charge it's actually 42 volts! I am quite surprised it worked on only single cell in series, also wondering since I'll be building my own pack if should just connect 7 cells to get nominal voltage of 25.9V and double up in parallel to get more current, maybe even go 8s2p.
yeah, lithium cells have a huge operational voltage range. some of the HV lithium packs go up to 4.35V fully charged now! crazy.
I've done 8S on similar motors before without issue. 10S at high current got nasty in the latest video ;)
I watched the 15:32 part like 10x trying to figure out what you did here. Can you elaborate?
the explosion sound on the connection got my thumbs up
Ha ;D
very interesting, thank you for sharing your experience!
Thanks for watching!
Subbed because you are not afraid to blow it up
I am not, indeed. Welcome aboard!
already done that and my little pulse lightning with stock 24v 100w motor is still running with two makita 18v 4.0 A li-ion batteries in series. I only weigh 115 lbs so when fully charged at 20.3v a piece, I can reach 27mph. just a push button wired directly to the motor and batteries.
Post video TC Woodworks and Design please!
+Steve Auguste
yeah those tool batteries are something else, but I stopped using them. the scooter will run until there's power left and lithium ion cuts off when very low and that's when one of my makita battery ($100 a piece for these 3ah makitas)got fully drained and killed 6 cells inside, including the charging circuitry.
what I'm into now is three 12v plus one 6v, all 8ah, maxing out at 46v fully charged to the same stock 24v 250watts stock e300 motor. I changed the wheel sprocket from the original 55 tooth to 47 tooth that came from the pulse lightning. had to enlarge the inside diameter using 2 1/8" bi metal hole saw and just refined it with a half round file.
the result of these higher voltage and sprocket combination was hair raising, as the e300 now can run at max speed of 33mph (via gps speedometer) and it's about time to change the motor sprocket to a 15 tooth, 1 3/8" diameter, from 11 tooth 1". it might pull near 40 but I doubt it unless the motor is swapped with a higher wattage, say about 500watts.
when start hitting the 30mph range, riding becomes scary, cars pulling up from corners, people walking and dangerous bumps even small at speed, that small of a tire inflated 45psi can jerk you and your eyes are always looking forward, can't even glance the side views usually done when running slow. I've forgotten how to post videos on UA-cam (fyi- I will be 51 years old this December)and don't have anybody to ask to film me
+ T C Woodworks and Design
Quick questions:
1)the "three 12v plus one 6v, all 8ah" are drill batteries?
2)changing sprockets made the scooters faster?
3)could you put the camera on something with height (like on top of a box) and angle the camera to catch you going down the street?
PS. I can help you upload the video once #3 is done! :)
+Steve Auguste
batteries are all sla. but there's a better alternative, lighter and safer than lithium ion- check out lithium phosphate. same size as sla, very light, 12.8v and you can charge it with the regular sla charger.
the reduction of the wheel sprocket made it faster but at the same time consumes more power and I would imagine enlarging the motor sprocket will do the same. that's why, opting for a higher wattage is a solution, a 500w motor can take up to 52v with no problem and less heat plus more power in oppose to a 250w that heats up pretty fast in the upper 40s voltage. the higher the wattage the more you can overvolt.
but I will do what you suggest, to just place the camera at a certain spot to catch me getting closer to it and a driveby shot.
+ T C Woodworks and Design Thanks for the heads up! Look forward to the video!
Since you seem to be very knowledgeable with the 300; can you help me with a problem my son is having. His scooter has new batteries, fully charge. When turning throttle, rear tires will spin fast, but when he gets on scooter, not enough power to move. ??? What do you think, need new throttle, or new controller. Hope you can help. Thanks
Sounds like it's current limiting (or maybe voltage limiting) for some reason. Hard to say without seeing it and doing some tests.
Maybe controller dead, but can't be sure. Hope you can figure it out!
May you help me, please? When you mentioned wired the sense lead going to the shut directly to the ground. Was it the black wire? May I have a close picture of the wire diagram, please?
If you hunt around for TK on hackaday.io you'll see some diagrams there :)
If you want to completely disable current limiting (I don't recommend it) find the connection from the mosfet side of the shunt to the IC. Separate the connection. Ground the pin of the IC that was connected there. Adding the wire as you did is the same thing as paralleling a wire with the shunt since one end of the shunt is to battery negative.
Yeah, very true! I get into it in later episodes. Thanks for watching!
I have two 12.4V LiFePo4 batteries connected in series and I want to use a lithium ion charger of 29.4V 2 Amps... If I connect the charger to the E300 scooter will it charge the battery without turning off the controller ? I just need to charge the batteries with the above config.... So question is will it charge the batteries safely using the same controller ?
Doesn't sound like the right match sorry!
How many ohms resistance is that shunt because I removed mine completely and shorted (M-) to ground. Now i'm thinking I messed up somewhere because the wheel isn't spinning like if you touched the terminals on the motor wires together.
So that’s not the right way to do it.
From the sounds of it, you’ve shorted the motor lead to ground.
You can leave the shunt there, and in fact, you need to. It’s part of the circuit between the FET and motor.
What you’re supposed to do for this hack is cut the sense wire coming off the shunt - it’s a small, fine trace coming off the shunt. Then, on the side of the trace you just cut, the side that goes to the TL494 IC, tie that to ground. That makes the TL494 think there’s zero voltage drop across the shunt, and thus there’s no current flow, so it doesn’t shut off due to over current.
Diagram here hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt
Do this at your own risk, it can lead to the motor going full throttle if the FET blows.
I was about to mention that current shunt...replacing that alone is enough to triple your drive torque. I know cuz I did it with my e300s
But it never occurred to me to wire the thing straight to ground....
Are there any guidelines or maths for doing this and getting repeatable results? Do I just need to wire up a watt meter and play with shit?
I just picked up a e300 and I'd like to get some more range and speed out of it, mostly range. But I don't want to deal with buying hobby lipos and replacing controllers right now.
How much can the stock electrics be pushed before I start worrying about melting things?
Hi TK.
I have tested with a 36-volt LEAD battery on my 24 volts, 7Ah( standard scooter e300 and stock 24-volt speed controller) and it works very well with no issues. I am planning to try a 36-volt HONME BUILD lithium battery.
I need your suggestion before I start to build my battery. Will it work with a 36-volt lithium battery? Any further modification on the speed controller?
The stock ESC may blow up, in a short time or a long one. Consider buying a dedicated speed controller rated for 36V.
All sounds great would be even better if you got hold of a Go-Go motability scooter and found out how to hack that so I can beat the old ladies.
Hah! I think Photonicinduction did a quick and dirty mod on one of those with a bajillion extra batteries for MOAR SPEED (Y)
I tried that, you can't. A faster one (8 MPH maximum compared to 4 MPH) has a different ratio gear box. Connecting the batteries directly to the motor doesn't increase the speed of the wheels. If you want faster, start with an 8MPH mobility scooter, and put some larger diameter wheels on it (the rear, driven wheels). In the UK where I am, you can drive a 4 MPH mobility scooter with no restrictions, but an 8MPH one can only be driven on the road and needs to be registered as a road vehicle, you do not pay road tax though. You are also meant to be genuinely disabled to drive one too, but I had fun driving round the supermarket and having people offer to help with things. They were a little upset when I got out and did things for myself, before I explained I was just on my way to deliver the scooter to someone that had had their own scooter break down.
or you can just increase the ah of the batteries! what I did is: I have two scooters and I took the batteries out from the one and put them all on one I left it with 24v but it got 14 ah instead of 7 ah it made it faster and the runtime is way longer the torque is much better too
I didn't have to modify the controller
+tziebe are you still able to use the same charger to charge all 4 batteries?
So, the speed controller is the little black box with the metal line things on top? Can i take it out and have the scooter still work? Is that why mine is so SLOW? I would love some advice on that
Wild Gaming the speed controller is what takes signals from the throttle and sends power to the motor. It isn't the main reason why the scooter is slow - that's largely down to motor and batteries.
I modify the speed controller in future episodes to handle more power, but it's complex. I'll be releasing a video soon on a more accessible DIY mod for more speed.
so I blew my large capacitor in my razor mx 400 any clue what capacitor that is? The case is in pieces and cant read anything
No idea, probably your best bet is to replace the whole ESC
@@WhatUpTKHere yea ik, was hoping to save some money lol. Thanks.
Bravo! Very impressed. Congrats to your successful Hack!
Really good explanation. Really good video. Nice testing and reaserch well done!!
Thanks! More to come ;D
I have two of these that i got from the dump for free and they both work. I wonder can i add a second motor onto the scooter for twice the power and use four battery packs? Ima try your mod first tho. Great video!! Subbed.
Mechanically complex, but doable! I look forward to hearing about what you come up with
I’m trying to convert our 350mx razor dirt bike for kids to take my 18v ryobi batteries, I’m a newby to electronics. The board seems to be the same S the scooter as they are both 24v razor products, I’m confused on the last step you did to bypass the bridge, can you walk me through step by step on what you did for that?
hackaday.io/project/9941/logs
How do you recharge the drill batteries once there all fitted to the scooter
Not really practical the way I did it. This was just a test. My other videos explore battery swaps in depth!
Got one for you, I want to wire 3 or 4 lithium battery packs 36v each, meant for the mi electric scooters, they each have a little circuit board, not sure what they’re for. I need to wire them in parallel to run a razor mx-650 longer. Can you give that a go?
LEGENDARY WORK
Thank you!
Your videos are very thorough. Thanks for sharing all this stuff with us. Glad it all worked out. Exciting stuff. "It works! Yes!"
Ahaha, it's a great feeling! Glad you enjoyed it :)
I did this to an E325 it flies now. But it will turn off every minute or so for 2-3 seconds. I'm assuming it's getting to hot and tripping the breaker. I'm wondering how dumb wiring a 30amp breaker would be.
Edit* All factory just 2 18v Milwaukee 5ah batteries.
Hm interesting! Maybe a different revision of ESC has a thermal cutout
I was considering doing this to a 10$ Razor pocket mod. It looks easy to slide out, charge or swap.
And this looks nicer than my Tesla battery idea from cost.
Totes do it!
I need to modified my mobot scooter 48v 21ah 500w now I need u to tell what can I do up my speed moreeee......
I want to see if you finished the hack.
video out next Friday ;D
Sweeeeet!!!! Been waiting!!!!
Can't wait until you post the scooter hack!
+Los Lakers not long now till the next ep... it may or may not be a tragic installment...
I heard only so much power goes to the motor
Not the entire voltage of the battery. The ESC can be modded to pass more amps. Also the throttle might be worn out.
Yep, keep watching my vids - I do all this!
Hi mate, love your vids, very informative. Just trying to work out exactlywhat you did to get it to take more current, ie the bit where you added the white wire (sorry I'm just a dumb civil engineer). On the left hand end of the added white wire did you cut the hard piece of standard wire and then add the white? Or just join the white without cutting anything? And then the right end of the white wire, what exactly did you join that too?
You'll find more deets here - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt
hey ,
I have bought one recently and am trying to upgrade it ,I would like to upgrade the whole system though.
could try and make a video calling those lines?
thanks
any idea if the stock controller supports a variable throttle grip?
It does not.
@@WhatUpTKHere Thanks for letting me know, great series of vids on this!, I picked one up cheap and have been working on it, geared it down alil (65T), but plan to use two 4s 5A lipo packs I have after doing the overvolt and over current mods on the controller. For now have 2 lifep04 12v packs in it, but looking for alil more speed..
Great video.
Gave me some good points.
Is there anyway to mod it so that you can bring extra batteries in some sort of case?
Yep! You'd just have to extend the wiring and figure out a connector arrangement that was safe and practical.
To how did u disabled the speed limiter? Where did u soldering the extra wire u put?
hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt
Thanks man it really helps, your awesome, keep up the good work👍🏽
Pretty cool. Good on you !
W
hey just a quick question: I did not fully get the 2 points in which u souldered together in the last step could you explain a bit more
and great video thanks
Hi Angela, for more detail on the mod check out www.google.com.sg/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt&ved=0ahUKEwjL58CfwcPVAhVFPI8KHaR0BuQQFggjMAA&usg=AFQjCNGPIaDH5KSIYM5CjaCK2ZwgSNXUnw
Hope that helps :D
one of the logs has detailed photos on what I did
i keep watching these videos on repeat and i have a question. i have an e300s and the esc isnt the same one as you have i wish i could upload a pic of it but i dont know where to solder for the bypass ....
Might have to have a Google, or get an electronically minded friend to help you trace it out!
i dont personally know anyone mine has the zk2430d-f5
Hi! I am from Germany and i speak German and a little bit Englisch.
My English is not good, i speak a little bit.
My Mega Motion electric scooter doesn't turn on anymore, I've had it for 1 year. IM very desperate!! Maybe you can translate my German into English with the Google app, for example. In your video in the minute 3:30 pm I also have these cables and these yellow colored plugs and this silver part with all the plugs and cables at minute 3:30 pm that you screwed on and where the cables are all inside. Red, yellow etc. And then with 4 screws the blue long battery pack with 4 screws. Question: Which cable is responsible for switching on the electric scooter or which could be broken. The charger charges normally red and when it is full, then green. So the battery is full and was still full before. I beg your help so much. Usually when I put the round plug of the charger into the scooter at the bottom left, I always heard a "clack"! And now when I plug the charger into the scooter the round cable at the bottom left, I don't hear it! not "clack" or "click".
I'd like to help but it is hard with just text and being so far away. Perhaps you could head to a local hackerspace?
whats thats website called that you were on at 8:10
Check in alldatasheet.com
I want to know how you will be charging the batteries once you have them all installed.
so this is a prototype - the next video will show the full LiPo install with charging
Hi! It looks like you changed the chain drive to belt drive, is that right? I was hoping to do this to try and make the scooter quieter. Would you mind pointing me in the right direction?
Still running the stock drive, I would have filmed it if I changed it.
If you want to do that I'd say go buy a whole bunch of hardware from McMaster Carr (who don't ship to Aus, grr) or another mechanical parts place. Somewhere that sells belts and toothed pulleys and so on.
My old scooter I built had belt drive... there were slipping issues and it wasn't that much quieter. I'd say try and adjust and maintain yoir chain drive if it's too loud, first.
+TK Thanks for the response! It does seem strangely loud. Any recommendations on making it quieter? Cheers.
Check lubrication, if it's running "true" (i.e. sprockets are aligned), check it's not too tight or too loose. Check all bearings for lubrication and condition too.
+TK Ok will do. Thanks for your help!
Does the charger work to charge the lithium batteries?
Nah. In later videos in this series I go through doing a proper swap with charging accounted for. Check them out on the channel!
Hey mate, will this also disable the low voltage cut-off and allow me to run 18v batteries? Cheers
Not 100% sure, but it may!
FYI i myself did this very same thing, (2x18 Dewalt). Much success in the end . However at full speed didn't gothe distance. , increased speed subtract distance. so run withall 4 batteries. when 36 dies plug in reserve 24
Nice!
I just got a used Razor e300
And want to increase the range of the current system which I can ant to use it to push my golf push cart with my golf bag
I don’t need more speed, just longer range. Please lead me to accomplish this
Need lithium batteries?
You can add more lead acid batteries in parallel, but a lithium battery setup will be lighter and give you more range
Great vid man, good explanations
thanks man :D
Just watched part 3 - keen to see the next one! Component explanations are great, very informative
Hey TK watch your video pretty cool and interested would like to do mine but would like to know what you did with your diagram and your speed controller board might be controllable is the same as yours I have a E200 but for some reason when you stepped on it it's closed right down it does not go any farther when you hold it up it keeps on spinning the wheel but as soon as you stepped in it it's closed right down any tips can help me would love to do my mod as yours thanks will really appreciate if you help me out
Sounds like dead batteries or the current limit kicking in. Head over to Hackaday.io and read about the project. hackaday.io/project/9941/logs
Dude I did everything you did in this video to my speed controller but it is still cutting out under full load :( any ideas?
Running 24v lithium
Sounds like the relay ticking still
Sounds like you might have a different board layout and the pads to short may be different? Hard to say without seeing it unfortunately!
Would love to show you a couple of pics if you are up for it! Cheers
Try me on Twitter, might be able to help, can’t guarantee tho :)
@whatuptkhere
Thank you for making these videos, it’s really useful and fun to watch at the same time. I do think I have the same problem. I installed 26Ah batteries and it smelled a bit burned each time I rode it. After about a week it stopped working completely and it must be the controller right?
Controller or battery I bough a upgraded 500w speed controller and throttle and it blew up
Could be controller or motor. Keep watching the series, watch my fails :P
I buy razor e300 and i don't find in internet how i unclamp it. Please if u knouw tell me. Ty very much
Unclamp what?
@@WhatUpTKHere the motor of razor e300
baly elyes yeah it unbolted pretty easily
I did this with a PR200, just overvolt. But I have been wanting to do this with the 4AH kobolt lithium battery packs. The only thing is, they are only 4AH which I have 10AH right now. Meaning less distance. Been wanting to try though. Replace the controller though. They don't like overvolting.
Do you think you could help me derestrict my t_walker 800 watts 36volt it only does 14mph it shit please help
A different controller might help!
To limit the effect the current shunt, just (on the solder side of the PCB), short the shunt pins with a length of copper wire. The current sense will say to itself, man this motor is very efficient, and not bother You.. Ken !;!
Kenny Malone good tip! I get into this in some of the later episodes :D
Keep up the GooD Work.. !;!
can you show how did you cut the trace?
wish my professor wouldn't have talked me out of electrical engineering 10 yrs ago thanks DOC. Nice video learned lots thanks. there might only be 0100000 who understand.
+brp0u12 that's a shame, but you can teach yourself over time! I have a Mech/Aero degree myself, no formal training in electronics. :)
hello I hope you can help me since I see that you know a lot about electronics I have a scooter miku max motor bosch 800w and in no forum or video there is information on how to disable remove or bridge for the speed limiter is not for me to do it racing but it is limited to 45km / h and traffic in my city becomes slow and dangerous
Not sure on that one, sorry! It may just be that that is your scooter’s maximum speed
how can i make the battery last longer on mine? i dont even care about the speed i just want to have a use time of over 20 freaking minutes.
If you just want longer run time, I'd suggest swapping in 6S or 8S (or 2x4S) lithium packs with as much capacity as possible. That way you won't really be overstressing the controller but you'll have way more Ah (amphours) to play with in a smaller space and lighter weight than the stock SLA packs.
You may still need to bypass the overvolt protection if you go 8S but it's workable.
TK ok thanks
TK oh and btw, if i change to those batteries, can i still charge them using the normal razor charger?
+RedYT Nah, you'd need to implement a solution like what I put together in episode 3.
TK ok
loved this, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Why not use a cordless drill speed controller?
Didn't need to!
Hey TK, I just picked up a Razor drift gocart for $20. Same controller. So, while I had it open trying to find the fault, I made the same mods as you. I'll convert it to lithium later perhaps.
nice one dude, let us know how it goes!
+TK It goes poorly! I added another 12v battery for a total of 36v... and it worked fine for a while on the desk, but when i went to ride it, as soon as I turned it on it locked on and only the main power switch shut it off. Ever since, it's maxed on as soon as it has power. Even if I disconnect everything from the harness except battery and motor. I think perhaps I blew the mosfet?
+MattsAwesomeStuff oh dear! Yep, when MOSFETs fail in brushed motor controllers they almost always lock hard on and that would explain the behaviour you're seeing. Perhaps spec yourself a nice highly rated replacement part and replace the FET? Should be able to drop something right in :)
+TK How about paralleling FETs? I see that all the time... do I need to change the circuit at all to do that, or can i just throw a bunch of others in a row to help beef it up?
+MattsAwesomeStuff you couuuuuld possibly do that. you'd want to make sure you were still able to heatsink the extra FETs and you may have trouble with the gate drive not liking the extra FETs - I don't have experience with that sort of set up exactly! Looking at the data sheet may give an example with multiple FETs.
Can you still use charging point?
Nah, this would require the batteries to be removed. However If you watch on I do more videos on practical battery swap
@@WhatUpTKHere thought i had seen all the videos on E300 whats the name of the video?
It's safe to keep it the way it is😆
i have a e100 and im trying to get more juice out of it. the control board does not look anything like yours. It seems like it has 2 relays but not sure where or how i can bypass it like you did.
+Nacho Loza Hi! Yes, the E300 is a completely different scooter to yours.
Bypassing the relays won't do anything to make the scooter faster on an E300 anyway, it's only there as a safety cutout. You need to bypass it to make the scooter work with higher voltages (but you'll likely blow everything up anyway doing that, as the series shows).
E100s aren't as popular for modification but you could have a Google to see what can be done. :)
I poked around and didn’t find anything on the good ol inter-web. Not sure if there is a solution. Thanks for the reply
Bro,your a legend.
I bought a Helix Scooter from Big W here in Adelaide yesterday for $99,it can take up to 68kg and I'm 63 and it's SO for SLOW😢
How can I make mine quicker?
I'm really stuck and gave googled and looked on here.
Awesome Video.
So you can try replacing the speed controller and batteries, at which point you may blow the motor up but I did exactly that and still had a good time. :P
Not sure how it worked because I cut the exact same trace and me controller was dead so did the obvious option and bought a controller 1000w 36v then it fried the Motor 🤷 brush less it is now
Good luck!
What is the range on this thing!?
5-10 km I reckon - I go into this later episodes!
can you use lithium polymer batteries instead
CaterBoss 4 watch the next videos in the series to find out :)
Overvolted my razor e300 to 56 volts, thanks.
Nice one! Super fast?
@@WhatUpTKHere yes
This is the most amazing UA-cam video I've ever watched you get right to the point of what it is you're trying to do and the obstacles that you have to overcome people will get on UA-cam and they'll talk about fucking bullshit that you've already read about that you already know about and just keep regurgitating bullshit and you get right to the fucking source of it you're awesome man
That means a lot buddy, I pride myself on being a clear communicator. Thank you for the kind words!
Gave it a try but im pretty sure i broke it... Oops!
just makes a click coming from the "fun police" box when i engage the throttle.
Thanks for the tips and im sure i just didnt follow you close enough.
I knew the risk i was taking and tbh i would definitely try it again if i had the chance.
Hi David, sorry to hear it's not working out for you!
If it's making a click sound, that sounds like it's the relay shutting off because it's detecting too much voltage being put in.
As you know, we bypassed that in this video. Perhaps you just haven't quite bypassed it correctly? If nothing's getting hot or smoking, you probably haven't blown anything up. :)
You can read the project logs here which may help you out with some illustrated diagrams - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt
Just be careful of course, as these batteries can be dangerous and if the speed controller blows a FET while you're driving, it'll stick at full throttle which can be dangerous. Play with the scooter at your own risk :P
TK Fixed it!
It was just a bad soldering job by me!
I'm actually using the parts and mods from an old e300 to power my "new" E-bike! Probably a little safer as my brakes can over power the friction drive setup just in case bad things happen!
I'm looking into using 18650's. Have you worked with them much?
Just rewatched and realized that the drill batteries look like they are 18650s. 🤔
David DeMarta that's awesome dude! Glad we could trouble shoot that over comments haha, that's so cool.
As far as 18650s go, I haven't used them, but I've heard of people building eBike packs using them.
David DeMarta oh. Duh. You are right! Hahahaha.
What kind of ride time do you get out of those batteries?
The stock batteries are 7 Ah, these are only about 1.5 Ah. Ride time is about 10-15 minutes. I used these as a proof-of-concept before I dropped coin on a beefier set of LiPos. I'm now just waiting on parts to complete the conversion and shoot a new video :)
+TK cool! I've added a 300w motor in place of my 100w on my e100 and bought two 18ah lawn mower batteries. very heavy but I get about 15mph for a solid two hours
Nice! That's a hefty pack you got there, long range is awesome. I really dig the Razor scooters, they're a great platform to hack on.
+TK they are! I'm planning to add a cushion or some sort of seat to mine next
how long did those 2 drill batteries last for?
about 10-15 minutes, which is what I expected for 1.4Ah.
how fast does it go now though
Watch the later videos for the rest of the story!
Can u use this battery on a razor 350
With some work, probably!
Hey man. If you’re up for a serious challenge... would you help me out with doing something similar to my scooter?
I got 2 e100 for just about free. cut them to add them together ( made it longer ) added 2 more batteries in a series, 48v. tossed the servo/speed controller out and bang. A scooter that will push a 200lb man with ease. around 20mph
Yo where is the peed controller on the e100s, i cant find one on my daughters.
This video made me do the shunt mod. Now my bike is alot more agressive, uses more battery power, but the same top speed on the straight and flat, 50kph.
Sounds like your problem is an Rpm limit, not a current one!
How do i get rid of the rpm limmit?
My motor has hall sensors on the inside.
You need more voltage for more RPM! Also If it’s brushless, you may be able to get a controller that features flux weakening, which grants more speed
Thanks for the video and the info.
No problem!
You rock on persistance level!
Thanks mate! Fair few episodes after this one ;D
You should buy 10" hub motor. It fits really well.
Велес Поляновский interested - link?
What Up TK Here ru.aliexpress.com/item/New-electric-wheel-motor-10-inch-electric-bike-kit-elecric-bicycle-robot-wheelchair-wheel-motor-36v/32694303074.html?spm=a2g0v.search0104.3.17.c5e594b2fGIstY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10340_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10869_10868_5723320_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_46,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=03eed801-0170-48cb-85a7-d1aeed02678f-2&algo_pvid=03eed801-0170-48cb-85a7-d1aeed02678f&transAbTest=ae803_1&priceBeautifyAB=0
What Up TK Here m.ua-cam.com/video/ra_3mmr8GZ8/v-deo.html - it fits good
What Up TK Here If you're going to buy it, plz make a video in future with installed motor.
I'm an electrical novice, but you explained that well. Thank you.
Keep watching videos and you won't be a novice for long! Thank you ^__^
i love to work and learn and play like that
golashrikitty Bhaskar gola :D
"Its actually cool that they've gone through all this effort to keep water out of the controller". Haha. No that's the best they can do without a permanent seal to keep Gear head hackers like us from digging in to see what kind of mods we can cook up quick lol.. subbed cuz you ain't scared to dig into something and make it or plan to make it push the limits.
Welcome aboard!
is that same all electric kickboard?
sorry, I don't quite understand the question?
all kickboards are same way?
Ah! I understand. No, some kickboards have a different design. This video is relevant to the Razor E300 and similar brushed motor scooters.
um... if hurb motor?
Hub motor scooters are typically brushless designs, very different. :)