I know this video is a few years old just happen to come across it. But... I thought I’d drop a few tips. First is... I recommend getting the biggest sonic cleaner you can afford or have room for. Looks like you’ve got a decent size one. Good. Second you don’t have to use the entire contents of your cleaner for one particular thing. For example.... I leave mine fairly full of just regular water. Then when I going to clean something ...let’s say some baffles from a silencer, I throw the baffle in a small pickle jar or something that can easily hold everything. Then I fill the entire jar up with purple power. No water...just purple power. Then submerge it in the water. Usually the lid will hold it down under the water so it’s submerged. Yes ultrasonic works this way. Then when you’re done you don’t have to completely empty the entire contents of your cleaner. Just what was neatly contained in the pickle jar. You can also clean many different things at once with different types of solvents. All this creates less hazardous waste, easier cleanup, and less money for cleaning agents. Also you just pretty much keep the original water in it since you’re not contaminating it with the chemicals.
So before you even fire that suppressor , Or any metal part on a gun you need to heat it to approximately 300° and then apply your favorite lube. I recommend SLIP 2000. What you’re doing is baking/curing a lubricant into the natural metal. Almost like curing a cast-iron skillet. Shoot the hell out of whatever you want to shoot the hell out of, THEN put it into the sonic cleaner along with some more lube. Works great every time. I did this with every working part of my bolt/charging handle - everything I could put in the oven to cure the gun like a cast-iron skillet. It fills the porosity of the metal and allows for a slicker surface for all the materials- much easier to clean also
Just FYI, stainless tumblers will clean a baffle stack faster than ultrasonic cleaners and you also you arent scrubbing/picking them clean. And all I use is dawn and 2-3 hours and there is zero brush scrubbing.
A good tip is to take a wire brush and clean the suppressor baffles before putting into the cleaner. It helps to loosen up all of the powder inside. I was only able to watch a few minutes of this video so im not sure if he talks about doing that after the point I stopped.
Have you ever used extreme simple green? It really concentrated and strong compared to the green label stuff. I fill my ultrasonic cleaner with plain water and grab myself a mylar bag, fill it partially with simple green and the rest of it with water. This way i just use a few ounces at a time. If you dont already know the ultrasonic cleaner can work through tupperware and bags This is great because you can reduce hiw much solution you use.
I use simple green extreme aircraft and precision parts cleaner in my ultrasonic with gun parts and it gets everything. Does not oxidize or corrode alloys or aluminum. Give it a try
Simple green extreme works well but didn't get everything. I have a bunch of carbon just caked on. I used hoppes 9 first, did some scrubbing then used the simple green extreme inside the ultrasonic cleaner. Still not completely clean but it will do. It is a safer solution.
After I clean my dead air mask, I apply a liberal coat of frog lube paste. It makes cleaning so much easier. A healthy amount of crap can be wiped away. Then I'll use the sonic cleaner with 100% purple power or super clean. 👌
They also make those pipe brushes with a hex bit end.. that way you can use it with a drill or impact. Might save some time and prevent arthritis/carpal tunnel syndrome LOL Sweeeet! Never considered a ultrasonic cleaner for baffles. Awesome video. Lots of great info!
I have an aluminum suppressor, I get that the finish on the housing can be ruined by purple power and an ultrasonic cleaner, but what about the baffles?
Ultrasonic cleaners can make some aluminum alloys brittle so if the baffles are also aluminum it's a good idea to avoid ultrasonic cleaners unless the manufacturer gives the ok.
Hey BC. I received the Blem M-16A1 upper receiver from Brownells I ordered last week. The Blem cost $125.00 which was $25.00 less than the non blem upper. The only defect I see is the place on the upper that is around where the rear sight adjustment wheel is. There is a curved arrow with an " R " at one end and an " L " at the other end indicating which direction to turn the drum to make windage corrections. On my Blem A1 upper the " L " is not very distinct and looks like a capital " I ". No problem and worth the $25.00 discount. It looks Great and I ordered the rear sight assemble for $20.99, and the ejection port assy for $4.99. I already have the tear drop Fwd assist I will transfer from the flat top upper I have now on my AR-15A1 project rifle.
Thanks BC. I don't know if you remember but what makes my AR-15A1 special to me is I made mine using the actual triangular hand guards and pistol grip off of my actual M-16A1 I was issued when I was serving in US Army back in the 70s and 80s. When I was PCS from A Btry 3rd Bn 79th FA in Giessen, West Germany back to the USA I was cleaning my M-16A1 for the last time after my last FTX and I was turning it in to the Arms Room. I told my Buddy , who was out unit Armorer, " I was sooooo short " this was last time i was gonna see my old M-16A1. He took it in and saw my handguards were kind of beat up with one tooth missing on top and several cracked and bent over. The pistol grip was pretty worn looking too. I asked him what he did with the old worn out parts. He said they were expendable items and he just threw them in the trash. I asked if I could have them as a souvenir and he said sure. So I was waiting for over 30 years to make this project. I had made my first AR-15 in 2001 when I lived in Houston, Tx but that one happened to evolve into a 20" HBAR AR-15A2. It was my first and it was special. It was dead accurate and back then with my younger eyes at 100 yards if the Range Gods were smiling on me you could cover my shot group with a half dollar and sometimes a quarter it the wind was just right haha. But with that HBAR Barrel it just did not have that sweet balance my M-16A1 had with that skinny barrel. Sadly I had to sell all my guns to finance my move from Houston to here in North Carolina in 2012. Oh, by the way, we are getting some of that rain here in " Cherr'ville " too. I don't mind gloomy , rainy days though. I have a melancholy spirit. Bill PS I rehabbed my handguards by making a replacement tooth out of a cut up credit card and I glued it in place using JB Weld. I also used the JB Weld to strengthen the 2 cracked upper teeth on the hand guards. Then all it took was a little sanding and some flat black paint and it came out not too bad. The pistol grip I left with it's worn weathered look. I will send you slide show of the whole build from stripped lower to upgraded A1 upper when it is done. Thanks for all the interesting videos you make.
I'd have no problem throwing a carb in there but per the suppressor experts tell me that the aluminum alloy used in suppressors can be harmed by the ultrasonic cleaners needed. Due to them costing about $800+ and taking a year for the AFT to approve ownership I'll trust the manufacture vs. risk it.
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
@@Bill23799 [copy paste] The erosion of aluminum by ultrasonic cleaners is mostly overrrated. Most people don't want to use it for aluminum due to the foil test (which you can look up online). The reality though is that aluminum parts are cleaned in ultrasonic cleaners regularly in various industries. If your silencer baffles erode in an ultrasonic cleaner, you have a silencer with sub-par materials. The problem is most silencer companies are using sub-par materials (remember, silencers are expensive due to unconstitutional regulations, not because of manufacturing costs). This is one reason a home build is typically superior. Anodized aluminum will obviously have less erosion than bare aluminum, and higher frequencies are less prone to damage (but less aggressive in cleaning). Anodizing is so easy to do at home, there really is no reason to not anodize all aluminum parts. The amount of thickness it adds is negligible. It really is something companies should be doing from the factory, but they cut corners.
With the correct cleaning solution you can clean aluminum in an ultrasonic cleaner. Research it on a metal cleaning company page, not supressor cleaning forums. It’s 100% safe to clean in ultrasound. Aerospace companies use ultrasonic for aluminum.
I wonder (an im a bit scare to try it in my new one time shot supressor) but how a wet tumbler with the stainless steel media will work. In brass wet tumbler produce waaay better results than sonic cleaner but I wonder how will be with baffles.
Is aluminum effected by the chemical you use or the actual sonic sound waves? I know purple power DESTROYS aluminum, but ive ran aluminum pet cocks for motorcycle fuel tanks through my cleaner with simple green and never noticed any harm.
The ultrasonic waves themselves will damage aluminum. The fear is a bit overblown IMO, as thicker, less complicated parts would take a very long time to degrade. Higher end machines change the frequency to try to combat this. That's probably why those Chinese units are so cheap.
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
@@erikperrott7302 The erosion of aluminum by ultrasonic cleaners is mostly overrrated. Most people don't want to use it for aluminum due to the foil test (which you can look up online). The reality though is that aluminum parts are cleaned in ultrasonic cleaners regularly in various industries. If your silencer baffles erode in an ultrasonic cleaner, you have a silencer with sub-par materials. The problem is most silencer companies are using sub-par materials (remember, silencers are expensive due to unconstitutional regulations, not because of manufacturing costs). This is one reason a home build is typically superior. Annodized aluminum will obviously have less erosion than bare aluminum, and higher frequencies are less prone to damage (but less aggressive in cleaning). Annodizing is so easy to do at home, there really is no reason to not annodize all aluminum parts. The amount of thickness it adds is negligible. It really is something companies should be doing from the factory, but they cut corners.
Thanks Tex! I never got around to putting together a generator although I've been tempted to pick one up from a GovPlanet auction. When I first moved into my current house we lost power for a few days during the winter and the new neighbors came by to check on us. I ended up giving them some Mountain House supplies and they had their first hot meal in a two days.
Here is the 1 inch pipe brush: amzn.to/2LQksDx and here is the link for the 6 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner: amzn.to/2Apd4um
I know this video is a few years old just happen to come across it. But... I thought I’d drop a few tips. First is... I recommend getting the biggest sonic cleaner you can afford or have room for. Looks like you’ve got a decent size one. Good. Second you don’t have to use the entire contents of your cleaner for one particular thing. For example.... I leave mine fairly full of just regular water. Then when I going to clean something ...let’s say some baffles from a silencer, I throw the baffle in a small pickle jar or something that can easily hold everything. Then I fill the entire jar up with purple power. No water...just purple power. Then submerge it in the water. Usually the lid will hold it down under the water so it’s submerged. Yes ultrasonic works this way. Then when you’re done you don’t have to completely empty the entire contents of your cleaner. Just what was neatly contained in the pickle jar. You can also clean many different things at once with different types of solvents. All this creates less hazardous waste, easier cleanup, and less money for cleaning agents. Also you just pretty much keep the original water in it since you’re not contaminating it with the chemicals.
If you snip off the orange handle on the brush you can put it in a drill and brush out the insides super fast
So before you even fire that suppressor , Or any metal part on a gun you need to heat it to approximately 300° and then apply your favorite lube. I recommend SLIP 2000. What you’re doing is baking/curing a lubricant into the natural metal. Almost like curing a cast-iron skillet. Shoot the hell out of whatever you want to shoot the hell out of, THEN put it into the sonic cleaner along with some more lube. Works great every time. I did this with every working part of my bolt/charging handle - everything I could put in the oven to cure the gun like a cast-iron skillet. It fills the porosity of the metal and allows for a slicker surface for all the materials- much easier to clean also
Super helpful video. Thank you!
Just FYI, stainless tumblers will clean a baffle stack faster than ultrasonic cleaners and you also you arent scrubbing/picking them clean. And all I use is dawn and 2-3 hours and there is zero brush scrubbing.
A good tip is to take a wire brush and clean the suppressor baffles before putting into the cleaner. It helps to loosen up all of the powder inside. I was only able to watch a few minutes of this video so im not sure if he talks about doing that after the point I stopped.
Have you ever used extreme simple green? It really concentrated and strong compared to the green label stuff. I fill my ultrasonic cleaner with plain water and grab myself a mylar bag, fill it partially with simple green and the rest of it with water. This way i just use a few ounces at a time. If you dont already know the ultrasonic cleaner can work through tupperware and bags This is great because you can reduce hiw much solution you use.
I use simple green extreme aircraft and precision parts cleaner in my ultrasonic with gun parts and it gets everything. Does not oxidize or corrode alloys or aluminum. Give it a try
Is the reason you can't put in aluminum the cleaner or the untrasonic itself. I always hear people say you can't but not why
Simple green extreme works well but didn't get everything. I have a bunch of carbon just caked on. I used hoppes 9 first, did some scrubbing then used the simple green extreme inside the ultrasonic cleaner. Still not completely clean but it will do. It is a safer solution.
It has been a rainy season in Texas too.
After I clean my dead air mask, I apply a liberal coat of frog lube paste. It makes cleaning so much easier. A healthy amount of crap can be wiped away. Then I'll use the sonic cleaner with 100% purple power or super clean. 👌
Is there amarket in Burma or can there be amarket in Thailand as well?
please guide us on how to buy that silent gun in myanmar
They also make those pipe brushes with a hex bit end.. that way you can use it with a drill or impact. Might save some time and prevent arthritis/carpal tunnel syndrome LOL
Sweeeet! Never considered a ultrasonic cleaner for baffles. Awesome video. Lots of great info!
I've never seen hex bit brushes but now I'll keep a look out for them. Thanks.
I have an aluminum suppressor, I get that the finish on the housing can be ruined by purple power and an ultrasonic cleaner, but what about the baffles?
Ultrasonic cleaners can make some aluminum alloys brittle so if the baffles are also aluminum it's a good idea to avoid ultrasonic cleaners unless the manufacturer gives the ok.
Hey BC. I received the Blem M-16A1 upper receiver from Brownells I ordered last week.
The Blem cost $125.00 which was $25.00 less than the non blem upper.
The only defect I see is the place on the upper that is around where the rear sight adjustment
wheel is. There is a curved arrow with an " R " at one end and an " L " at the other end indicating
which direction to turn the drum to make windage corrections.
On my Blem A1 upper the " L " is not very distinct and looks like a capital " I ".
No problem and worth the $25.00 discount.
It looks Great and I ordered the rear sight assemble for $20.99, and the ejection port assy for $4.99.
I already have the tear drop Fwd assist I will transfer from the flat top upper I have now on my AR-15A1 project rifle.
Bill, that A1 is going to look awesome when you're done.
Thanks BC. I don't know if you remember but what makes my AR-15A1 special to me is
I made mine using the actual triangular hand guards and pistol grip off of my actual M-16A1
I was issued when I was serving in US Army back in the 70s and 80s.
When I was PCS from A Btry 3rd Bn 79th FA in Giessen, West Germany back to the USA I was cleaning my M-16A1 for the last time after my last FTX and I was turning it in to the Arms Room. I told my Buddy , who was out unit Armorer, " I was sooooo short " this was last time i was gonna see my old M-16A1. He took it in and saw my handguards were kind of beat up with one tooth missing on top and several cracked and bent over. The pistol grip was pretty worn looking too.
I asked him what he did with the old worn out parts. He said they were expendable items and he just threw them in the trash. I asked if I could have them as a souvenir and he said sure. So I was waiting for over 30 years to make this project. I had made my first AR-15 in 2001 when I lived in Houston, Tx but that one happened to evolve into a 20" HBAR AR-15A2. It was my first and it was special. It was dead accurate and back then with my younger eyes at 100 yards if the Range Gods were smiling on me you could cover my shot group with a half dollar and sometimes a quarter it the wind was just right haha. But with that HBAR Barrel it just did not have that sweet balance my M-16A1 had with that skinny barrel.
Sadly I had to sell all my guns to finance my move from Houston to here in North Carolina in 2012.
Oh, by the way, we are getting some of that rain here in " Cherr'ville " too. I don't mind gloomy , rainy days though. I have a melancholy spirit.
Bill
PS I rehabbed my handguards by making a replacement tooth out of a cut up credit card and I glued it in place using JB Weld. I also used the JB Weld to strengthen the 2 cracked upper teeth on the hand guards. Then all it took was a little sanding and some flat black paint and it came out not too bad. The pistol grip I left with it's worn weathered look.
I will send you slide show of the whole build from stripped lower to upgraded A1 upper when it is done.
Thanks for all the interesting videos you make.
I use straight purple power but first you need to use a brass brush on the baffles.
Thanks for the great info.
Try CLR. You can use it in stainless steel.
Deuce I have cleaned aluminum in ultra sonic cleaners. Carburetors and other things. Never had a prob
I'd have no problem throwing a carb in there but per the suppressor experts tell me that the aluminum alloy used in suppressors can be harmed by the ultrasonic cleaners needed. Due to them costing about $800+ and taking a year for the AFT to approve ownership I'll trust the manufacture vs. risk it.
DEUCE AND GUNS yes I wouldn't risk it either I didn't know about suppressor
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
I might have missed it. What ratio of purple power to water?
Any advice on a solution for cleaning aluminum baffles?!?!?
It's been rainin' that Tennessee Honey, so long I got too heavy to fly. Ain't no blue bird ever got too heavy to sing......
Which ultrasonic cleaner did you use this video still have it and are you still happy with it
Here's a link to the one I use. amzn.to/3uWtpi7 I still use it for cleaning suppressors and brass cases and it still works like a charm.
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
Always good to hear from someone with the facts.
Thanks.
@@Bill23799 [copy paste]
The erosion of aluminum by ultrasonic cleaners is mostly overrrated. Most people don't want to use it for aluminum due to the foil test (which you can look up online). The reality though is that aluminum parts are cleaned in ultrasonic cleaners regularly in various industries. If your silencer baffles erode in an ultrasonic cleaner, you have a silencer with sub-par materials.
The problem is most silencer companies are using sub-par materials (remember, silencers are expensive due to unconstitutional regulations, not because of manufacturing costs). This is one reason a home build is typically superior. Anodized aluminum will obviously have less erosion than bare aluminum, and higher frequencies are less prone to damage (but less aggressive in cleaning). Anodizing is so easy to do at home, there really is no reason to not anodize all aluminum parts. The amount of thickness it adds is negligible. It really is something companies should be doing from the factory, but they cut corners.
What about stainless steel??
Have you tried gasoline
With the correct cleaning solution you can clean aluminum in an ultrasonic cleaner. Research it on a metal cleaning company page, not supressor cleaning forums. It’s 100% safe to clean in ultrasound. Aerospace companies use ultrasonic for aluminum.
Ducati, do you have a link?
@@klugeyone4425 I believe it is Brulin 815gd but I will try to remember to look at the bottle tomorrow
Did you use the heat setting or no and if so, how hot?
Heated to about 50c
I wonder (an im a bit scare to try it in my new one time shot supressor) but how a wet tumbler with the stainless steel media will work. In brass wet tumbler produce waaay better results than sonic cleaner but I wonder how will be with baffles.
Stainless steel baffles would probably be fine but I'd be worried about anything else.
Mine seem to work better when they’re dirty! How about yours?
My .22 is noticeably more quiet when clean.
Is aluminum effected by the chemical you use or the actual sonic sound waves? I know purple power DESTROYS aluminum, but ive ran aluminum pet cocks for motorcycle fuel tanks through my cleaner with simple green and never noticed any harm.
The ultrasonic waves themselves will damage aluminum. The fear is a bit overblown IMO, as thicker, less complicated parts would take a very long time to degrade. Higher end machines change the frequency to try to combat this. That's probably why those Chinese units are so cheap.
Good Stuff!!! :-)
I put aluminum in ultrasonic cleaner every day.
The way sonic cleaners work, using micro cavitation, it'll work harden the aluminum over and over again in the same spots and it'll chew holes right through it within a couple cleanings, and within one use, it could critically weaken the suppressor and cause it to blow up while shooting.
Domino52o That would suck. I’d put it in the dishwasher then. That’s how I clean my black powder pistols.
@@erikperrott7302 The erosion of aluminum by ultrasonic cleaners is mostly overrrated. Most people don't want to use it for aluminum due to the foil test (which you can look up online). The reality though is that aluminum parts are cleaned in ultrasonic cleaners regularly in various industries. If your silencer baffles erode in an ultrasonic cleaner, you have a silencer with sub-par materials.
The problem is most silencer companies are using sub-par materials (remember, silencers are expensive due to unconstitutional regulations, not because of manufacturing costs). This is one reason a home build is typically superior. Annodized aluminum will obviously have less erosion than bare aluminum, and higher frequencies are less prone to damage (but less aggressive in cleaning). Annodizing is so easy to do at home, there really is no reason to not annodize all aluminum parts. The amount of thickness it adds is negligible. It really is something companies should be doing from the factory, but they cut corners.
Does the direction of the baffles matter?
Yes.
Great video. Btw - for some reason, I figured you would be the kind of guy with a standby generator that you built yourself.
Thanks Tex! I never got around to putting together a generator although I've been tempted to pick one up from a GovPlanet auction. When I first moved into my current house we lost power for a few days during the winter and the new neighbors came by to check on us. I ended up giving them some Mountain House supplies and they had their first hot meal in a two days.
Titanium will pit (see lava rock)