Man I’ve been chasing down some intermittent issues for a while. Going to test all these this weekend and hopefully I find an issue that I can point at finally and fix
66 mustang 289, regulator, alternator and battery are good. Can't sort out wiring to get alternator to run. Exciter wire maybe ? Add a diode or resistor ? I don't know. No original harness, just wires.
1966 mustang just replaced 1wire alternator, new battery,and coil she sits at 12v when I crank she drops down to 9-10 and no start.I back traced all wires to alternator and I have no voltage loss.
Yep, can see how we got confused, we always understood that the red plastic was for battery and the black for field. Don't know if that alternator got mucked with or what because the red is here field should be so the grommet should be black...
I just put new plugs plug wires rotor cap voltage regulator in my 59 Ford Thunderbird and now the battery is not charging I tested the generator and it test okay and I flashed the generator and I flash the voltage regulator and it's still not charging not sure what to do next
1967 What if ive replaced my battery relocated in the trunk, alternator, and my voltage regulator and my light on my dash stays on only mod done is electric fan
The further the batter from the alternator, the bigger the gauge wire needs to be (there are charts showing this. And electric fans can pull some serious amps.
Because I have a new alternator, new ground wires and battery positive cable, and new regulator, the only old part is the harness, and the jumper test works.
Using this vid to help diagnose my 79 T-bird. Charge was weak and l jumped the wires. Alternator spiked up to 15v so that means it should be working right? Replaced the Voltage Regulator and now its is 12.49v at idle. Revving it up brings it up to 12.51v but nothing else. Imma take my time to understand all this stuff so I can track down the issue ( I have my instrument cluster out. Could that have caused an issue? ) EDIT: Yup, Turns out that if the cluster is out, it won't charge. Plugged it back in and now I'm charging again at 14v. Pretty sure one day I'll look back and laugh at my inexperienced self
Man I’ve been chasing down some intermittent issues for a while. Going to test all these this weekend and hopefully I find an issue that I can point at finally and fix
That's hope so
66 mustang 289, regulator, alternator and battery are good. Can't sort out wiring to get alternator to run. Exciter wire maybe ? Add a diode or resistor ? I don't know.
No original harness, just wires.
1966 mustang just replaced 1wire alternator, new battery,and coil she sits at 12v when I crank she drops down to 9-10 and no start.I back traced all wires to alternator and I have no voltage loss.
I could now move on forward with my car thanks to the mechanics and the uploder Of this video.
Very glad we helped!
Great Information fellas, Thank you.
You are welcome.
When are you going back to that Classic haircut when working on Classic cars? 3:30 great problem / answer. Gained an electrical belt on that.
Lol I like longer hair but I don't like longer hair when working on cars it's just too hot, and not in a good way.
The red terminal on the ford alternator that you pointed to is the field not battery. you can tell by the size of the connector.
+Jeff Driver Thanks Jeff! We'll put a note on that.
Yep, can see how we got confused, we always understood that the red plastic was for battery and the black for field. Don't know if that alternator got mucked with or what because the red is here field should be so the grommet should be black...
I need these guys to straighten my 69 mustang altanator out
My 1967 firebird gen light stays on after turning car off, alternator was bad replaced new regulator still on after turning car off help
I just put new plugs plug wires rotor cap voltage regulator in my 59 Ford Thunderbird and now the battery is not charging I tested the generator and it test okay and I flashed the generator and I flash the voltage regulator and it's still not charging not sure what to do next
Look to the cables, they may be in bad shape. That happened on our '72 Mach 1.
1967 What if ive replaced my battery relocated in the trunk, alternator, and my voltage regulator and my light on my dash stays on only mod done is electric fan
The further the batter from the alternator, the bigger the gauge wire needs to be (there are charts showing this. And electric fans can pull some serious amps.
What if my battery is in the trunk?
Same stuff. Just make some test leads.
So, jumping a to f and getting charging voltage from the alternator means that some part of S is malfunctioning, right?
Because I have a new alternator, new ground wires and battery positive cable, and new regulator, the only old part is the harness, and the jumper test works.
Yeehaaaaaaaa. Electricity bugs debugged. Thanks guys.
All well and good, but I have a '73 Super Beetle with a generator, now what?
Check voltage on the battery, then start the car and check again, if the voltage comes up a bit the generator is ok.
Using this vid to help diagnose my 79 T-bird. Charge was weak and l jumped the wires. Alternator spiked up to 15v so that means it should be working right?
Replaced the Voltage Regulator and now its is 12.49v at idle. Revving it up brings it up to 12.51v but nothing else.
Imma take my time to understand all this stuff so I can track down the issue
( I have my instrument cluster out. Could that have caused an issue? )
EDIT: Yup, Turns out that if the cluster is out, it won't charge. Plugged it back in and now I'm charging again at 14v. Pretty sure one day I'll look back and laugh at my inexperienced self
Hey, it is all a learning experience. Glad you found the problem.