Bleeding Japanese Maple Bonsai
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- One of the main questions when pruning in winter is.. Will my Japanese maple bleed to death? This is one of the main myths that seems to keep on circulating.
Why is bleeding Japanese Maple not a problem (Or a bleeding Carpinus or Birch bonsai). What to do when your pruned bonsai will not stop bleeding? (ven though it does not matter when a bonsai bleeds)
0:00 Pruning maple, birch and hornbeam bonsai leads to bleeding
0:28 Maple, Birch and hornbeam should not be pruned in spring?
2:10 What is bleeding in trees
3:24 Why bleeding in bonsai does not matter
4:00 Should you prune bonsai in early spring?
5:00 Do bonsai die from bleeding?
6:14 Why do only Maple, Birch and hornbeam bleed in spring?
8:00 How to stop bleeding in bonsai
9:02 why prune and wire bonsai in late winter.
Take-home message, which considering soe of the comments below was missed. Why do I not care about bleeding bonsai, and why do I do work on maples in early spring?
Start at: ua-cam.com/video/PMm0Ypv2n2E/v-deo.htmlsi=chS9WQCHrPz7yl5G&t=503
Just because a tree doesn't die, it does not mean it was the right choice. As bonsai practitioners, we should always strive to make the best horticultural decisions as possible, which in this case, is NOT needing to make any pruning decisions in early Spring because this type of work should have been done in late fall within the 2 week window of leaf drop. Pruning in fall allows the tree to compartmentalize wounds AND redistribute the allocation of energy throughout the remaining structure. Branches pruned in Spring also tends to respond with sending out shoots more aggressively which leads to longer internodes which we'll then need to come back in the future to cut off thus setting back progress. We always want to maximize energy in the tree and should be promoting doing the right work at the right time. Having said that, yes if for various legitimate reasons we miss the fall pruning, then we can do this type of work in Spring as a fallback plan. These choices we make, though seemingly small, is what differentiates a tree reaching refinement in stage in just a few seasons vs taking years to get there. Jelle, I love your videos and I watch every single one of them and I'm so thankful for your content as I've learned a lot from you as well.
Hi Jelle. First thanks for your videos, I enjoy them a lot.
That's exactly what I tought as well. Why would you do that, if you know that it loses its stored energy? If it's a lot or just a little, why wouldn't you want to preserve that if possible?
I also don't understand why you would want to repot a tree just to stop bleeding, if repotting wasn't necessary in the first place?
If you do it after leaf drop or after the first flush hardens off, then you don't have to worry about any of these things.
Absolutely spot on. I tried to say this less well in my comment. Ryan Neil explains this 'fall process' so well and changed my whole strategy a good few years ago :)
I am all in favor of fall pruning and wiring around leaf drop. Reality is that with 200 trees and a more than full time job, there is no way to do the work on all my trees in a 2-4 week window. And the reality is.. For the tree it does not matter. Which was pretty much the point of this video: It is not something to worry about, in my opinion as ecologist.
People worry too much about things that from a physiology perspective really do not matter. There are a lot of truth floating around in bonsai which are taken at face value but are actually not true.
Small
Rodents chew the bark on red maples,
I lost one it chewed a perfect line round the base of the tree and it was a goner 🍁🍁.
So annoying I keep them well of the ground 🍁
Your research works are a great treasure for bonsai makers. 👏
Interesting Jelle🤔
Also I completely agree with the tree being weaker to begin with plays a huge part in the decline of it’s health
The health of our trees must come above all ego
If the tree is healthy to begin with then we work
If the tree is weak we leave alone
Thank you for sharing my friend👊🏻
A really interesting debate and I can certainly agree that I haven't seen major issues from spring pruning on my maples - I said as much in my species guide too. My big question is whether the ability of the tree to react to this loss of water and some sugar through bleeding is different for a tree that no longer has that massive root structure you talked about in the wild (taking maple syrup in spring)? I certainly don't have any evidence to argue one way or the other. As you know, we do larches at different times because of different experiences...the same may well be true for our maples. I do all my maple work in that short period after leaf fall. Primarily as this relates to the ability the tree still has to cope with this in relation to setting next years buds etc. Obviously, this falls firmly within the Ryan Neil school of tree physiology and his explanations appeared spot on.
I think there is lots of room to have these conversations and experiment to some degree. To this end I have already decided to set aside a couple of my Larches and Maples to do exactly as you do. Clearly it works where you are. I really enjoyed this and hopefully it doesnt get flack from the 'old guard' of experts who seem so inflexible in thinking. Cheers :)
Great information once again! Thank you Jelle!
Great information. Very informative. Thanks Jelle.
I can't recall what (if anything) Michael Hagedorn said about bleeding in his book "Bonsai Heresy", but if he didn't mention it, here is another chapter for him! Peter Adams suggests mid summer as the prime time for big cuts, or when repotting to prevent the translocation of sap. Always worth challenging common practice if it does not make horticultural sense. "Keep doing that"!
I have also done a lot of big cuts mid-summer without noticeable problems.
Bonsai Heresy has nothing on the bleeding when pruning, as far as I can tell. In the end, people should do what works for them. The main aim I have is to show people that a lot of things that are set in stone and taught as pure truth, are often, not.
Very good video alot of good point put forward thanks jelle keep up the good work mate
Probably the most handsome Bonsai enthusiast.
Really interesting. Will have to experiment a bit with my extra hornbeams and birch. When do you do the bulk of your trunk chops and larger branch removals?
Excellent video on a debatable topic!!
I think your reasons are valid about the unnecessary worry about bleeding. Cheers!
Very good video, thanks
The video that was foretold! I thought after you gauged interest on the topic that you'd forgotten about it, but of course you made it into a long-term project. Glad to have the knowledge.
Also, that clip when you're talking about blood...... that's, as the kids say, "metal."
:) Happy you liked it.
I am not familiar with the "metal" expression. How does it translate to old farts speech?
@@GrowingBonsai Hmm, hardcore? Gnarly? Graphic and satisfyingly explicit? Transgressive in a pleasing way? If anyone else has a better definition, feel free to comment!
The sugar in the sap acts as an antifreeze in the branches and trunk. That’s why tap flows during periods of temperature swings.
Have a read up on the process. It is not the sugars in the sap that are the reason maples bleed more than other groups.
Very interesting video, thank you. When should a hard prune or an air layer be done on these japanese maples? Im in Idaho, if that helps at all. Roughly zone 6a-7a.
Interesting! Thx Jelle.
Grts
Kennet
I pruned mine and repot Las week on my day was the 26th. I didn't notice any bleeding. Of course I put cut paste on immediately
Last spring, I cut the trunk of my maple tree, which was about 8 or 10 cm thick and about 3 metres high, leaving two side branches. It bled a lot, but it didn't die, and grew quite well. It is in the ground, though
Poor tree 🌲 😮
Hello! I have 2 big hornbeams and i pruned them in december. Is it okey or it’s too late? Thanks a lot :)
👍👌🙂
Does anyone know Jelle's climate zone?
Netherlands
I am in mid-germany. &a USDA. Winters up to -20C, although most winters are milder. A lot of frost periods that last a few days, with swings between 13c and -8c