Great video! Just a couple of things to add: after breaking loose the filter, put a Solo cup over it and grip the sides of the cup as you unscrew it (this will catch the oil that comes out as you remove the filter). Also, consider a Fumoto valve to replace the drain bolt. Since it's a once and done deal there's no chance of stripping the bolt over time. Also, makes it easy to correct an overfill or collect a few ounces for oil analysis. Finally, there are torque specs for the under tray bolts: 24-28 ft/lbs.
Excellent description and demo, good techniques. One thing I also do is send a little clean oil thru and see the liquid goodness push out the black stuff. Also important to check the mating surfaces of the oil plug and filter area for foreign debris like stuck crush washers and wayward seal. Nobody wants to have to do the job again 😁
Nice video my man. Just got the wife a 2023. The video is quite explanatory. I started to read some of the comments but quickly stopped. I’ve changed oil all my life just not a Miata. A quick guide as presented works for me. Thanks again.
The engine should be warmed up some. Always check that the old oil filter gasket has not remained on the mounting flange, a rare occurrence but will cause a major oil leak!
word of advice. if you overfilled it, you do NOT need to "start all over" (plus, that's twice as bad for the environment). just drain out your oil filter and reinstall it. try again and the level will decrease by as surprising of an amount as you realized it held. once your level is registered on the stick, a few mms (or even cms) above your full line is not that much of a difference in oil and by removing an oil filter's worth, you will surely more than level it out. (and IF for some very very unlikely reason your oil is still too high, just do it once more.)
@@JetFuelOnly yes if you have the tools. The filter being a newly installed non-crush rubber packing seal is an excellent alternative that everyone can do on the spot though.
The only time this will not work is when your car is equipped with remote filter plumbing that places the filter at a 90 or 180 degree angle from the port where oil will drain out when the oil system depressurizes (WRX, Some BMWs, Aftermarket relocation kits. etc)
What do I do with the gloves? Can't tell from this video lol But in all seriousness, thanks for these videos. Will give it a go and hopefully save some money in the long run.
If you are sketched about the jack slipping. Only raise it to the lowest jacks level on each side. Once its up you can raise each side again and it wont be as angled and less likely to fall or loose balance. Also. Take the rear tires and put them under the front ones. If the car falls the front tires will land on the rear wheels and not crush you. You can also place an extra jack stand at the front cross member and you can change the oil from the side of the car
What is lowest jack level? What is each side? Front/Rear or Left/Right? Why you want to remove rear wheel for oil change? And if you do, what is holding the rear end of the car in this case?
I paid $79 for an oil change thats usually only 50-60 and I promised myself that if I can do it myself, I will. Plus ik its done right if I do it myself, I hear horror stories of Jiffy Lube and other oil change places destroying people's cars and refusing to compensate them. It even happened to one of my family members.
This is a great guide! I use amsoil signature series 5w-30..apparently only north America asks for 0w-20 for emissions standards. Mx5 cup cars and other countries ask for 5w-30, I believe
Are American motors built with different tolerances? Are you looking at the 1.6 versus 2.0? do any of them cause more oil burning or carbon buildup on the rings or valves? Do you notice a difference in temperature since the lighter oils seems to be better at transferring heat where is the thicker oils can hold more heat than have more difficulty cooling it.
@@georgebugarin1078 does Europe not have equivalent or higher standards? They seem to be the frontrunners in establishing standards and the rest of the world follows. Then again cars have always had variable oil viscosity simply because not all countries have access to 0w20. There is a definite performance benefit to the 0W20 but I've always been curious about the longevity aspect. Then dual injection opened a whole new can of worms. I suppose they wouldn't state 0.20 if that wasn't sufficient but it certainly doesn't sound as good as the 30 weight oils.
@@jinxtacy i think that it relates directly to operational temperature at different latitudes. North America believes that 0w20 is good for year around emissions but at hotter temperatures in "race" settings a heavier oil weight seams to be the choice as it does not lose its desired qualities
Always make sure that the old filter o-ring gasket is not stuck on the filter mounting surface! Not a real common occurrence but a disaster of an oil leak if it does.
Do you have any suggestions for jacking up the car differently? I hate doing it from the middle subframe because it requires a ton of force and just seems sketchy to me. I would jack one wheel at a time but then how do I place the stands if the pinch welds are used by the jack?
From the owner: I don’t. It’s not really possible without using a post lift/quick jack. I’ve seen people use plywood or something similar to spread out the load. I also don’t like doing it from the front subframe but the rear diff seems super solid and safe.
In the video, there's no instruction on how to keep the front on two jack stands while the rear wheels are on the ground. And it didn't show where the jack stands should be put.
Jackstand placement is probably in your owners manual. There are designated jacking points. Step one in the video shows to initially raise the vehicle from the front under front subframe. It’s is recommended anytime you raise the car to apply the parking brake so the rear wheels don’t want to roll while the car is inclined.
@@JetFuelOnly Yes I agree that the video showed the vehicle is raised with a jack from the front subframe jacking point, but then the next step should be placing the two jack stands on the front sides. Yet in the video the next step is to jack the rear. In my opinion, putting the jack stands is the most difficult step in jacking the car, because in this situation, the car is not balanced. When the jack stands are put in front sides, the car's front is pointing upward, therefore the placing on the stands is angled, not flat, which could result in car falling. So I suggest this step to be included in the video. Hope you could understand me. 😀
@isleofauto How would you suggest jacking up the car? I hate jacking from the middle subframe because my jack moves and requires a lot of force and seems dangerous. I would like to jack up one wheel at a time but then how do I place stands on the pinch welds if they are being used by the jack?
@@jewbacca6984 I reckon your torque wrench doesn’t know 30 from 31 unless it’s nice and expensive. Honestly most people don’t use a torque wrench on that bolt once you get a feel for it
You may be right for something like the Miata. You could get what you need for about $150 but how long till that pays off? I like that I don’t have to try and make an apportionment, drive to the dealership, wait, etc. 30 min at home is nice. For my Porsche it greatly pays off since the dealer will charge $300-500 for an oil change.
Great video! Just a couple of things to add: after breaking loose the filter, put a Solo cup over it and grip the sides of the cup as you unscrew it (this will catch the oil that comes out as you remove the filter). Also, consider a Fumoto valve to replace the drain bolt. Since it's a once and done deal there's no chance of stripping the bolt over time. Also, makes it easy to correct an overfill or collect a few ounces for oil analysis. Finally, there are torque specs for the under tray bolts: 24-28 ft/lbs.
Thanks
I drill a 4mm hole in the bottom of the filter and let it run dry, no mess at all.
came here to give the 24-28 torque spec but you already did
Excellent description and demo, good techniques. One thing I also do is send a little clean oil thru and see the liquid goodness push out the black stuff. Also important to check the mating surfaces of the oil plug and filter area for foreign debris like stuck crush washers and wayward seal. Nobody wants to have to do the job again 😁
Great tips Anthony, I’ve never heard of pouring a little through the system but I’m sure it doesn’t hurt. Thank you
Always love the Miata content! 👌
Thanks a lot for taking the time to make this. I love that you had a 30 second overview/preview. I wish more tutorials did this. Very very handy.
Glad you value that!
Nice video my man. Just got the wife a 2023. The video is quite explanatory. I started to read some of the comments but quickly stopped. I’ve changed oil all my life just not a Miata. A quick guide as presented works for me. Thanks again.
one guy of a few only which tells you to fill the filter before mounting it...thumbs up
this channel is the best when it comes to instruction video
Agree, he's a pretty great instructor :) So Danial, can I use this guide to change oil on a c152 now? :)
Haha. Pretty much! But you have to learn to safety wire the drain plug and filter!
The engine should be warmed up some.
Always check that the old oil filter gasket has not remained on the mounting flange, a rare occurrence but will cause a major oil leak!
word of advice. if you overfilled it, you do NOT need to "start all over" (plus, that's twice as bad for the environment). just drain out your oil filter and reinstall it. try again and the level will decrease by as surprising of an amount as you realized it held. once your level is registered on the stick, a few mms (or even cms) above your full line is not that much of a difference in oil and by removing an oil filter's worth, you will surely more than level it out. (and IF for some very very unlikely reason your oil is still too high, just do it once more.)
Or pump it out through the dipstick.
@@JetFuelOnly yes if you have the tools. The filter being a newly installed non-crush rubber packing seal is an excellent alternative that everyone can do on the spot though.
The only time this will not work is when your car is equipped with remote filter plumbing that places the filter at a 90 or 180 degree angle from the port where oil will drain out when the oil system depressurizes (WRX, Some BMWs, Aftermarket relocation kits. etc)
What do I do with the gloves? Can't tell from this video lol
But in all seriousness, thanks for these videos. Will give it a go and hopefully save some money in the long run.
What a great video! Thank you so much. About to change my oil for the first time.
Great! Enjoy!
If you are sketched about the jack slipping. Only raise it to the lowest jacks level on each side. Once its up you can raise each side again and it wont be as angled and less likely to fall or loose balance. Also. Take the rear tires and put them under the front ones. If the car falls the front tires will land on the rear wheels and not crush you. You can also place an extra jack stand at the front cross member and you can change the oil from the side of the car
What is lowest jack level? What is each side? Front/Rear or Left/Right? Why you want to remove rear wheel for oil change? And if you do, what is holding the rear end of the car in this case?
Don’t open the oil fill cap until the flow from the oil pan is a trickle. That way the oil doesn’t shoot out.
I paid $79 for an oil change thats usually only 50-60 and I promised myself that if I can do it myself, I will. Plus ik its done right if I do it myself, I hear horror stories of Jiffy Lube and other oil change places destroying people's cars and refusing to compensate them. It even happened to one of my family members.
Great Video ! thank you.
Great video While I've changed the oil on my motorcycles for years, I'm not willing to get under a car on jack stands. I'll take it to the dealer.
This is a great guide! I use amsoil signature series 5w-30..apparently only north America asks for 0w-20 for emissions standards. Mx5 cup cars and other countries ask for 5w-30, I believe
Are American motors built with different tolerances? Are you looking at the 1.6 versus 2.0? do any of them cause more oil burning or carbon buildup on the rings or valves? Do you notice a difference in temperature since the lighter oils seems to be better at transferring heat where is the thicker oils can hold more heat than have more difficulty cooling it.
@@jinxtacy strictly for emissions standards and this is for the 2.0.not familiar with the 1.6
@@georgebugarin1078 does Europe not have equivalent or higher standards? They seem to be the frontrunners in establishing standards and the rest of the world follows. Then again cars have always had variable oil viscosity simply because not all countries have access to 0w20. There is a definite performance benefit to the 0W20 but I've always been curious about the longevity aspect. Then dual injection opened a whole new can of worms. I suppose they wouldn't state 0.20 if that wasn't sufficient but it certainly doesn't sound as good as the 30 weight oils.
@@jinxtacy i think that it relates directly to operational temperature at different latitudes. North America believes that 0w20 is good for year around emissions but at hotter temperatures in "race" settings a heavier oil weight seams to be the choice as it does not lose its desired qualities
Always make sure that the old filter o-ring gasket is not stuck on the filter mounting surface! Not a real common occurrence but a disaster of an oil leak if it does.
Interesting! Didn’t think about it. Thanks for the tip
Thanks
Anyone use high mileage castrol 0-20 synth oil? My Miata has 100k
Merci pour le partage, par contre faut il absolument replacer la protection du bloc moteur ?quels sont les risques ?Merci pour votre réponse !!!!¡!!
I'm sorry I don't understand the question. I used a translator
Has the Miata been sold? Need another upload.
Vince still has it but no mods lately!
Question: 4.5 quarts includes the volume put into the filter?
Yes
You dont want to over fill but you just did. You filled the filter and poured 4.5 qts in the engine. That is more than 4.5 qts.
It was correct on the dipstick. Based on what’s left in the jug it was correct. But a good point to make!
Nice video. Do you have the link to the oil filter wrench (cup) you used in the video?
In the description
Sorry I see I missed that, it’s added now
Do you have any suggestions for jacking up the car differently? I hate doing it from the middle subframe because it requires a ton of force and just seems sketchy to me. I would jack one wheel at a time but then how do I place the stands if the pinch welds are used by the jack?
From the owner: I don’t. It’s not really possible without using a post lift/quick jack. I’ve seen people use plywood or something similar to spread out the load. I also don’t like doing it from the front subframe but the rear diff seems super solid and safe.
In the video, there's no instruction on how to keep the front on two jack stands while the rear wheels are on the ground. And it didn't show where the jack stands should be put.
Jackstand placement is probably in your owners manual. There are designated jacking points.
Step one in the video shows to initially raise the vehicle from the front under front subframe.
It’s is recommended anytime you raise the car to apply the parking brake so the rear wheels don’t want to roll while the car is inclined.
@@JetFuelOnly Yes I agree that the video showed the vehicle is raised with a jack from the front subframe jacking point, but then the next step should be placing the two jack stands on the front sides. Yet in the video the next step is to jack the rear. In my opinion, putting the jack stands is the most difficult step in jacking the car, because in this situation, the car is not balanced. When the jack stands are put in front sides, the car's front is pointing upward, therefore the placing on the stands is angled, not flat, which could result in car falling. So I suggest this step to be included in the video. Hope you could understand me. 😀
@isleofauto How would you suggest jacking up the car? I hate jacking from the middle subframe because my jack moves and requires a lot of force and seems dangerous. I would like to jack up one wheel at a time but then how do I place stands on the pinch welds if they are being used by the jack?
I torqued my drain bolt to 31 ft/lbs instead of 30, should I be alright?
Time for a part out. Your car is ruined. 😂
@@JetFuelOnly Haha😂, do you reckon I should loosen it or leave it at 31 ft/lbs?
@@jewbacca6984 I reckon your torque wrench doesn’t know 30 from 31 unless it’s nice and expensive. Honestly most people don’t use a torque wrench on that bolt once you get a feel for it
@@JetFuelOnly Thanks for your insights, in that case I’ll just leave it at 31 ft/lbs and hit the proper torque spec for the next oil change.
ND2 oil - 0W20 Mazda Supra or 5W30 or 0W40 ?
Might want to choose based on your use case. Track? Street? Cold? Hot? I don't have a good answer for you.
Which URL to check the Mx5 user manual like you showing ?
owners-manual.mazda.com/gen/en/mx-5/mx-5_8fl9ee16j/index.html
@@JetFuelOnly thank you so much
Hey Daniel, do you have an email or something I can reach out to you on? Just need advice about my 14' vsport.
If you have Instagram that’s the best way @jet.fuel.only
Dang that old oil was nassy
You need a bigger funnel, lol
Not sure its worth buying all that equipment and the time it takes to raise the car. I'll just pay the dealer.
You may be right for something like the Miata. You could get what you need for about $150 but how long till that pays off? I like that I don’t have to try and make an apportionment, drive to the dealership, wait, etc. 30 min at home is nice. For my Porsche it greatly pays off since the dealer will charge $300-500 for an oil change.