I have made this video so you do not inadvertently buy a lemon MX5. It was never designed to be a short video and covers everything you would want to know about the MK2 & MK2.5 MX5 cars, before and after purchasing one. If you have any questions ask below & remember there is a huge following to these and there are many FaceBook groups that can help. Matt
I just brought a mx5 nb rs 1998. The speedometer was converted for the UK. But there's an argument wether the mileometer was changed to which is digital.
Good video. However thing to note is that both MX5 1.6 and 1.8L engines are non interference engines, so neither would be damaged if the timing belt snapped.
I'm glad you said that. I have a mk1 1.8iS that I brought back to France from the UK 2 years ago. Very little service history, 110000 miles and no record of a timing belt change. It's now up to 128000. I've had a full belt and water pump kit banging around in the boot for several months but not worried because I'd read that they're all non interférence. So this vid got me a bit phased. Thanks for the reassurance! Cracking little motors!
I bought a imported NB1 1.8 non vvt,it has a big plate on the cambelt cover ,asking for replace it every 100.000 km(in Japanese language).So I replaced mine at 65k miles
I just bought a red 2004 LS with the 6 Speed and I’m loving it so much. The owner before me babied it and it only has 60,000 miles. Thanks for the informative video. This is going to help a lot of people.
Great video, thanks for posting. I used all your advice to make up a checklist that stretched to 2 sides of A4 and used that to help my daughter buy an MX5 yesterday. We found a car with no rust advisories on the MOT history on Vehicle Smart (it was LITERALLY the ONLY car out of about 15 cars within a 50 mile radius that didn't have some kind of mention of rust ) and when we got there I spent over an hour checking all the stuff you advised.... chassis rails, sills, battery bay etc etc and sure enough everything was solid. It was clean and well looked after and drove beautifully and had half service history so we bought it on the spot. Fingers crossed I've not missed anything important but do feel that with your help I've checked the car as well as I could. Thanks again.
Hello james, is there any way you could send this checklist to me? And have you found out about anything since you bought it or is she still enjoying the car?
Absolute legend.. what a video.. I’m on the hunt for my first ever mx5.. Wanting a NB MK2.5 1.8 vvt Patiently waiting for the right 1 to arrive on the market!
i keep crossing paths with you matt. It started a few years ago watching your understandingE videos with magento, i then got into RC planes and found this channel. And only yesterday i went and bought a mk2.5 mx5. weird. I managed to find a 6 speed with hardtop for £1350. no major rot. Which i thought was pretty good.
In the States, the location of the ECU is different. It's actually under the driver's side dash, under the steering column. Lucky for me because my 2001 MX-5's passenger side has gotten wet several times due to an ill-fitting window. You scared me to death till I googled it. :)
Thanks for making this. I try to tell people the main this is ROT! 2 of my friends bought mk1s for £3000+ 2 years down the line I own both of them for less than £300 each. Building a good one out of the two of them. 1 was rotten beyond repair and the other one was not as bad but he crashed it. I'll have an absolute topper for less than a grand by next month after I've sprayed it and finished restoring the underneath of it. I tried to tell them but they both got bent over for them!
Just stumbled across your video, I just picked up my first mx5 a couple of weeks ago, it appears that I have been blessed and picked up a good one. I will have to admit that I am looking for a hardtop for the winter. My favourite car so far 😁
I had a floating crankshaft yet the key way was ok, this appeared at 106,000 miles and appeared to be the thrust bearing so kept going through the crank seals. So look at the bottom of the engine while the engine is running and check the crank wheel is nice and smooth and not wobbly!
Great video, looking for an MX-5 my self, so really great info and help. But saying that the engines are "rock solid", and yet you advise avoiding cars with more than 130.000-150.000 miles....that's is the opposite of "rock solid". My old Saab 900 did more than 376.000 km - 235.000 miles-ish, and the engine was healthy, using no oil at that mileage, and would've probably gone on for quite a while if the rest of the sweet swede hadn't rusted away - THAT is a rock solid engine!
Coworker's experience with Miatas impressed me: engine finally blew on a NA at over 250k miles and his current daily driver NB is around 200k miles. Both bought new, well serviced and never tracked. No major problems- worse was a cam position sensor failure that required a tow. That convinced me to buy two used 2002's, one base model and later a rare yellow special edition I couldn't resist.
Thank you Matthew! I absolutely appreciate all the work you've done on this 1.5 hour video. I think this is one of the best guides on buying a car I've ever seen. Normally I don't "like subscribe and bla-bla-bla" but this time I think it would be absolutely unfair not to do it. I hope your advice will help me soon. I'm from Russia myself (don't blame me on that) but I think all the guys telling British accent is hard to understand are talking bs cause this video proves otherwise despite I know there could be some issues with old school British accent) Everything was clear and helpful. Thank you once again. Love it!
This is the type of video that I've been looking for. I am learning about the Miata MX 5. So hearing what to look for was massive. As I am not a technical guy. My next issue is to see if I can dtive a manuel. All the cars that I've driven have been automatic. But I hear from videos that you should buy and learn a manual. Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. Thanks for a great video. Shaun of NYC
You have a lot to learn. "Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. " No. Most vehicles that are same model and trim only differ in transmission. They use the same engine in most cases. The automatic transmission itself is weak and unreliable in most cases. Manual transmissions are lighter and more durable. They are a better choice for 'drivers' because 'drivers' select the gear when approaching a hill, curve, or curve on a hill. Although newer automatics are faster than manuals in the same car and trim package, manuals are still preferable among most drivers who want to keep the car for 5 years or more.
Brilliant video; every rust spot you have identified, I have had to weld or replace with panels (readily purchased from MX5 specialists). Done all the undserseal as well (Dinitrol).
Aww mate, open diffs are not happy days, they suck, if you want to go sideways an lsd is a must have, and im sorry to be such a child but coming out of junctions and roundabouts on opposite lock is just cool, fact! I'm looking for an mx5 just now and I wouldn't buy one without a slipper preferably torsen. Good to see someone make the effort to help others though, well done.
My mrs just bought me a 2.5 gor my 40th talk about a mid-life crisis 😂 i love it! Its 65k drives like new. Its not mint but im hopping that iv caught the rust in time obviously dont ever wana sell it
Hmm, I saw a site saying the engine can go 400,000 miles. 150K isn't that much really. I guess it all depends how it was taken care of. I wonder to if it's worth getting a lithium battery when old one goes to save quite a few pounds.
Personally aware of a NA and NB that got over 200k. The lighter lithium battery would affect the touted 50-50 weight balance but would not be noticeable and certainly not worth any perceived advantage given their outrageous price.
thanks for this video awesome. I am in the process of purchasing an MX-5 i checked all the rust spots you mentioned all area's were sound, found water in passenger footwell so the dealer will be sorting that before purchase. so thanks again awesome video
So far the best video and information about the MX5!! Thank you so much for your time and help! I am about to buy an NB 2, 2004, 42.000 kilometers, including hard top for 8.000 Euro. It looks quite good, no rot, new brakes 6000km ago. But I will change at least all oils, filters and the time belt system. A lots of greetings from Austria.
Great video. Just a question : you say the engines are rocksolid but also to walk away from engines with more then 150K so what kinds of issues are to be expected at those 150K plus engines ?
*not a miata owner, i just repeat what i have heard* well firstly the oil leak from the exhaust he mentioned in the video, i have heard about an annoying engine knocking sound that happens for no reason and sometimes changing oil will stop it 🤷🏼♂️ and lastly and a bit more of my opinion, even for a 20yo car i wouldnt trust an engine with 150k miles even if it was the worlds most trustworthy engine
Hi Matt, Great Video, love the attention to detail etc. My mum bought the MX5 California Limited Edition in 2000, from new when they just come out. Only 500 of these were made. She still has the car but unfortunately due to rot on the nearside front chassis rail and some corrosion to the subframe mounting. The body of the car is not bad for it's age and she wants to keep it. However, I did approached an MX5 restorer in Buckinghamshire who agreed to do the work but due to unforeseen circumstances he unable to commit. There aren't may restorers in the Southeast and they tend to be miles away. Does anyone on here know of any MX5 restorer ? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks Dee
Hi Matt, I just watched your not buying a lemon video. Noticed you mentioned you have about 14 of them. Do you have any for sale (preferably not a lemon lol) great work on the video, was very informative as I’m looking to buy a 2.5
This is great video, really helpful. I've got a 2.5 1.8i sport as well. I changed all fluids and filters (not fuel one yet), and brakes, but haven't yet changed the spark plugs. I've no service history so no idea if the plugs are original. Does it really improve the performance to put new ones in? I've put it off as it looks more difficult 😬 Could you recommend good plugs and leads pls? Thank you
by any chance would you have any rolling shells?running and driving that have minimal rust ? crash damage whatever aslong as he chassis and suspension is solid?
Very informative.You didn't mention looking out for a seized pilot bearing in the clutch which makes a squealing/scraping sound when engaging disengaging first or reverse and going into neutral..It affects the synchro and can stuff the gearbox if not attended to.Just bought an NB MX5 and had to replace the clutch assembly for this reason.
Howdy Ethan, there are a lot less of those (although I did own 3 lol). As for worth more, probably. They're super bright and will only attract a certain type of buyer. Matt
I've just been looking at one, an 03, MK 2.5 Pheonix 1.8, absolutely immaculate, 60k miles, drives like new, same owner last 12 years, garaged every winter but....... Surface rust on the front chassis rails, not bad, but corrosion on the rear arches, back of the sill and inner sills, in fact exactly all the points you mention here. Not very bad, but it will need work. I am still very very tempted, arrrghh what to do?
that yellow one looks like an 1.8, and intake neck is straight not pointing down, and the lettering on the rocker cover is indented not raised . am i wrong?
Hi Matt thanks for the video I found this really helpful as I'm looking to purchase my first mx5. As a young driver in order to keep costs down in terms of maintenance insurance etc would the 1.6 over the 1.8 be the better choice as a daily driver? Also, which websites would you recommend to search for mx5s? Cheers
Howdy, the 1.8 can be cheaper to insure than a 1.6 and the MK2.5 have ABS etc... That helps too. The mpg is 250 miles for a 1.8 and around 330 mpg for a 1.6. so it might be more expensive to insure a 1.6, but cheaper to run long term. Hope that helps! As for where to buy, all the usual places, Facebook, Gumtree, eBay...
Thank you for this - brilliant video! We’ve had an import ‘99 1.8 VS spec auto since 2006. It only ever gets used in the summer and is in great condition but your video is going to help me look for problems and keep it going even longer! Thank you! imgshare.io/images/2019/08/06/3FE3100F-B630-4E4B-995D-8DD760A7F58F.jpg
+Peter Hedley The MK1 cars don't rot as easily as the MK2 and 2.5 cars. But so check all those areas as they will fonof not looked after. I'm glad it helped you. Matt
As a long term MX5 (NB) owner I suggest don't worry about cosmetic upgrades. NB's are tail happy especially when powering out of slow corners, an upgraded front sway bar will tame this and should be number 1 mod. Number 2 is replacing the rubber door blocks with solid polyurethane which will noticeably stiffen the car. The plastic end tanks on the radiator become brittle after many heat soaks and will fail at the worst time leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere - trust me on that - an aluminium radiator is third mod. All 3 are cheap, and super easy to do yourself.
A couple notes. The 1.6l and 1.8l blocks are physically different, the 1.8l is not a bored out 1.6l. Stock bore on a 1.6 is 78mm, max is 80mm. 1.8l stock is 83mm, max is 85mm. The 1.8l VVT block is stronger due to the support girdle. The best combination for turbocharged applications is a BP4W (NB1) head and a BP6D bottom end (VVT). All can be boosted, all perform well up to 250WHP, the 1.8l will spool a turbo faster than the 1.6l. The 5 speed box is cheap because they break at 300WHP consistently. The 6 speed box is a physically different case, stronger with stronger gears. They did not just make the gears shorter, its a new design with an overdrive gear.
I bought mine getting on for 5 years ago. A 2003 mk 2.5 in red. (It had to be red!) When I told a mate of mine that everything in my price range had high mileage he replied "Don't worry about that, it's the body-work which is important". I looked at a few and this same guy had a look over my choice for me. I drive it every day and it always makes me smile! I love it! Awesome video Matt!
I really enjoyed the video and learnt a lot about my MX5. Even though I've had it 6 years, I didn't realise that the electric windows, central locking and ABS weren't standard on my MkII.
I may as well be autistic, but I have watched this video at least 3 times in its entirety in the last year. Partly for entertainment value, partly for the information. Now I have a 1.8 NB with LSD and AC. I love the car!
G'day Matt, thank you so much for this video. I bought a Mk2 yesterday and the knowledge was invaluable. I found one tiny bit of rot behind the boot liner that not even the seller knew was there.
Rust Issues: The primary concern with MX-5s. Matt emphasizes inspecting chassis rails, rear sills, wheel arches, and front wings for rust. Extensive rust is a deal-breaker due to high repair costs. Engine Reliability: MX-5 engines are generally reliable up to 150,000 miles. High mileage engines might have issues with oil bypassing piston rings, leading to smoke. Regular maintenance can mitigate many issues. Models and Features: Differences between Mark 2 and Mark 2.5 models are highlighted, such as headlights, central locking, electric windows, and ABS. Understanding these variations is important for informed purchasing. Servicing Tips Regular servicing is crucial. Matt suggests not to overlook brake fluid, clutch fluid, and wiper blades, and to change differential and gearbox oil regularly. Fuel Efficiency: There is a brief comparison of fuel efficiency between the 1.6 and 1.8 engines. Brakes: Check for issues, especially in cars that have been stationary for long periods. Differentials: Various types are discussed, but for everyday driving, the differential type (open, Torsen, Fuji, etc.) is not a major concern unless used for track days. Gearboxes: Both 5-speed and 6-speed gearboxes are discussed. The 5-speed is seen as more reliable, though there's little difference in everyday driving. Roofs: The importance of checking for leaks in both mohair and vinyl roofs is noted. Hard tops should be inspected for cracks. Written Off Categories: Understanding the UK categories (Category N and S) for written-off vehicles is crucial. Category S (structural damage) vehicles should generally be avoided. Modifications and Upgrades: Various potential upgrades like stereo systems, LED lights, air filters, and exhaust systems are discussed. Personal preference plays a significant role in these choices. Buying Tips: Includes checking VIN numbers, doing HPI checks, interviewing the seller, test driving in all gears, and being attentive to vibrations or noises.
I have had a kooky plan in the back of my mind for years, I want to find an Mx5 and drop a rotary under the hood. I know its been done, but the ones I have seen were not done well. I think if it was executed with some patience, and if i built the suspension from the ground up, it could be epic. I have a 13B-RE rotary that has been sitting in my shed for a couple years, I just need to find a good donor body. but alas, finding a good donor in Ohio (aka "The Land of Salt) has proven a challenge. Thanks for pointing out a few spots that i wouldn't have thought to look.
NO STYLE BARS!! They are known to fold over and crush you and your passenger in a roll-over!! ANYONE WITH A MIATA MUST HAVE A REAL ROLL BAR. PLEASE!!! FOR THE U.S. VIEWERS.. 1) Some NB1 do come with power windows 2) All US NB1/NB2 are 1.8 (only 1.6 came in early NA models) 3) Not all 1.8 are VVT (I have a NB1 1.8 non-VVT) 3) ALL MIATA's have non-interference engines 4) Some early NB1 (possibly only CA spec) have a Pre-Cat exhaust manifold.. This was a poor design and corrected in later models. But might be something to be aware of if you're in the market Lastly, my 2 cents - A cracked hard top is not a reason to "walk away".. Rather, it may just need a new top. This could be a great bargaining chip as hardtops are fairly pricy PS.. Did I mention NO STYLE BARS!!!
@@cdpbrwr Very true! I use a bucket seat and the back is high enough so that's not a factor.. Passenger seat is stock so I use a thick roll bar padding for that side (could also just position your seat up and away from the bar) I suppose it doesn't matter if you have a style bar or no bar - in a rollover, you'd be kinda screwed either way. But based on my research, the best chance to survive a rollover is an actual roll bar (or cage.. but probably don't want/need a caged street car) I respect that everyone gets to decide how they want to modify their own car. But it's important to have these conversations when it comes to safety
@@_GarageThings : With the seat back tilted, the abrupt forward push from the rear-ending causes one to slide upwards in the seat- at least according to the interwebs... Another consideration is the low anchor point for the shoulder straps on Miatas. That's a proven safety hazard (high anchor points were required for hardtops in the 1970's) but it's a plus with a roll bar since it would impede one sliding upwards in the seat. Hey, maybe belt and suspender it and wear a helmet :-)
A good 1.6 can easily pass 300,000 miles. Though I've seen them do it, most 1.8s are pretty tired by 150k. The 1.6 is a better revving engine, and gets better gas mileage. Agreed as to rust. Bought a parts NA for pocket change; a good running rust bucket. I fixed it, and drove it for many years, but I would have been dollars ahead to leave it a parts car, and buy an unrusted car- they do exist! Also the 1.6 has embossed lettering on the cam cover; the 1.8 has raised. Pay attention to manual window winders; they wear out, bind up, and they are no longer serviced by Mazda.
Yes. The car just comes to a stop. In the rain. Or snow. At 3am. A thousand miles from home. During an ice storm, when the wait for a wrecker is 3 days. @@mick0846
I've had NAs with both. IMHO, the 1.6 is the more durable engine. It revs better, gets better fuel mileage, and runs longer before it starts using oil. Never blown up a 1.6; I have exploded a 1.8. Granted, it was under 16 lbs boost, no intercooler or engine management. and 160k on the unit@@TheHaferkeks
MasterSwag yeah you won’t be able too lol. I had a 99’ Miata that I had for about 7 months last year then sold it bc I wanted something bigger. Went through three cars in the last year just to realize they all suck bc they aren’t a Miata lol
Biggest selling point for me with mk2.5 is that they come with OBD2. If you get a mk2, you only get the proprietary mazda port. OBD2 makes faultfinding way easier.
Another car with a bullet proof engine is the V6 Mk 3 mondeo, i drove my last one like it was stolen every single time i got in it for 12 years and the only reason i retired it was the bodywork being battered and i was embarrassed to be seen driving it, was still rust free though. Loved driving that car so much i searched high and low for a clean example to replace it with and now have another MK3 V6 with 68,000 on it which will last me many more years of being ragged senseless :) The Duratec v6 has a chain too so no messing about with cam belts!
Hey this video is great! I recently bought an MX-5 without doing all these checks and I got lucky... However, I was wondering if you could do a video, or you know of any guides, that would be good for rust maintenance? Thanks!
Hi Freddie, your local garage would be a good start. The videos that are posted about MX5 rust repairs on UA-cam are generally greatly over exaggerated and chase minor surface rust on inner panels by cutting out whole chunks using an angle grinder, it's crazy. So a local garage would be best as they'll offer you no BS advice normally. Matt
My parents gave me a $5000 budget, I can get a used miata once I have my liscence in a few months, I'll get to learn manual in it, then it'll be for the most part, mine. I'm right at the start of this video and I know this is going to be a great help!
25:20 Not 99%, all 1999 and 2000 are without VVT and they are special in how the internal computer handles the engine, you can see a great comparison at: m.ua-cam.com/video/MLhlKh6hDS8/v-deo.html
I’ve just bought a nb with 24000 on the clock garaged in mint condition but it’s got a boss stereo and wanted apple car play but apparently it’s a nightmare to fit…I live nr westbury…might check these guys out
I have made this video so you do not inadvertently buy a lemon MX5. It was never designed to be a short video and covers everything you would want to know about the MK2 & MK2.5 MX5 cars, before and after purchasing one. If you have any questions ask below & remember there is a huge following to these and there are many FaceBook groups that can help. Matt
A very detailed review. Thank you
I just brought a mx5 nb rs 1998. The speedometer was converted for the UK. But there's an argument wether the mileometer was changed to which is digital.
Good video. However thing to note is that both MX5 1.6 and 1.8L engines are non interference engines, so neither would be damaged if the timing belt snapped.
I'm glad you said that. I have a mk1 1.8iS that I brought back to France from the UK 2 years ago. Very little service history, 110000 miles and no record of a timing belt change. It's now up to 128000. I've had a full belt and water pump kit banging around in the boot for several months but not worried because I'd read that they're all non interférence. So this vid got me a bit phased. Thanks for the reassurance!
Cracking little motors!
Also just nb1 comes 1.8 without vvti
@@chayyboi i own an mk1 na and i did not know that is that the engine thats 141 hp not 146 ?
@@egeayvala1799 the nb 1.8 is rated from factory at 146hp, the vtii does not add power, just adds efficientcy and some more torque low down
I bought a imported NB1 1.8 non vvt,it has a big plate on the cambelt cover ,asking for replace it every 100.000 km(in Japanese language).So I replaced mine at 65k miles
Just bought a 1.8 2.5; I cannot thank you enough for this video mate. Really informative. Everyone should watch this before purchasing a mx-5.
What price a rust free model
I just bought a red 2004 LS with the 6 Speed and I’m loving it so much. The owner before me babied it and it only has 60,000 miles. Thanks for the informative video. This is going to help a lot of people.
Great video, thanks for posting. I used all your advice to make up a checklist that stretched to 2 sides of A4 and used that to help my daughter buy an MX5 yesterday. We found a car with no rust advisories on the MOT history on Vehicle Smart (it was LITERALLY the ONLY car out of about 15 cars within a 50 mile radius that didn't have some kind of mention of rust ) and when we got there I spent over an hour checking all the stuff you advised.... chassis rails, sills, battery bay etc etc and sure enough everything was solid. It was clean and well looked after and drove beautifully and had half service history so we bought it on the spot. Fingers crossed I've not missed anything important but do feel that with your help I've checked the car as well as I could. Thanks again.
Hello james, is there any way you could send this checklist to me? And have you found out about anything since you bought it or is she still enjoying the car?
@@brianq7365 I can email it to you if you send me your details. The car is all fine...we've had no problems with it at all... no nasty surprises.
@@jamesnolan3634 Could you email this to me mate? if your wanting to sell id be happy to buy
Hey, could you email the list please?
😅😅
Absolute legend.. what a video..
I’m on the hunt for my first ever mx5..
Wanting a NB MK2.5 1.8 vvt
Patiently waiting for the right 1 to arrive on the market!
Got my MK2.5 1.8 vvt euphonic edition.. Happy days
i keep crossing paths with you matt. It started a few years ago watching your understandingE videos with magento, i then got into RC planes and found this channel. And only yesterday i went and bought a mk2.5 mx5. weird. I managed to find a 6 speed with hardtop for £1350. no major rot. Which i thought was pretty good.
I wasn't sure if I had the attention span to listen for over an hour. Glad you proved me wrong. Great job
I got a 2005 icon with 50k on the clock, spent most of its life in a garage so looks and drives mint 👌
In the States, the location of the ECU is different. It's actually under the driver's side dash, under the steering column. Lucky for me because my 2001 MX-5's passenger side has gotten wet several times due to an ill-fitting window. You scared me to death till I googled it. :)
Thanks for making this. I try to tell people the main this is ROT! 2 of my friends bought mk1s for £3000+ 2 years down the line I own both of them for less than £300 each. Building a good one out of the two of them. 1 was rotten beyond repair and the other one was not as bad but he crashed it. I'll have an absolute topper for less than a grand by next month after I've sprayed it and finished restoring the underneath of it.
I tried to tell them but they both got bent over for them!
Just stumbled across your video, I just picked up my first mx5 a couple of weeks ago, it appears that I have been blessed and picked up a good one.
I will have to admit that I am looking for a hardtop for the winter.
My favourite car so far 😁
I had a floating crankshaft yet the key way was ok, this appeared at 106,000 miles and appeared to be the thrust bearing so kept going through the crank seals. So look at the bottom of the engine while the engine is running and check the crank wheel is nice and smooth and not wobbly!
Great video, looking for an MX-5 my self, so really great info and help. But saying that the engines are "rock solid", and yet you advise avoiding cars with more than 130.000-150.000 miles....that's is the opposite of "rock solid". My old Saab 900 did more than 376.000 km - 235.000 miles-ish, and the engine was healthy, using no oil at that mileage, and would've probably gone on for quite a while if the rest of the sweet swede hadn't rusted away - THAT is a rock solid engine!
Coworker's experience with Miatas impressed me: engine finally blew on a NA at over 250k miles and his current daily driver NB is around 200k miles. Both bought new, well serviced and never tracked. No major problems- worse was a cam position sensor failure that required a tow. That convinced me to buy two used 2002's, one base model and later a rare yellow special edition I couldn't resist.
Hey man, i know how much work you have put into this, i really appreciate it, and you deserve way more views and likes, keep up the good work👍👍👍
Thank you Matthew! I absolutely appreciate all the work you've done on this 1.5 hour video. I think this is one of the best guides on buying a car I've ever seen. Normally I don't "like subscribe and bla-bla-bla" but this time I think it would be absolutely unfair not to do it. I hope your advice will help me soon. I'm from Russia myself (don't blame me on that) but I think all the guys telling British accent is hard to understand are talking bs cause this video proves otherwise despite I know there could be some issues with old school British accent) Everything was clear and helpful. Thank you once again. Love it!
Glad to see my old mx5 has been given some love!
This is the type of video that I've been looking for. I am learning about the Miata MX 5. So hearing what to look for was massive. As I am not a technical guy. My next issue is to see if I can dtive a manuel. All the cars that I've driven have been automatic. But I hear from videos that you should buy and learn a manual. Because the engine on an automatis aren't good.
Thanks for a great video.
Shaun of NYC
You have a lot to learn. "Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. " No. Most vehicles that are same model and trim only differ in transmission. They use the same engine in most cases. The automatic transmission itself is weak and unreliable in most cases. Manual transmissions are lighter and more durable. They are a better choice for 'drivers' because 'drivers' select the gear when approaching a hill, curve, or curve on a hill. Although newer automatics are faster than manuals in the same car and trim package, manuals are still preferable among most drivers who want to keep the car for 5 years or more.
@@tmo2798 That all counts only when you mean old transmissions, modern automatics are great, also at Mazdas.
16:21 bag of weed on the floor
elliott it’s empty
Your weed looks shit
HAHA! Gold. Go Woodstock ;)
420 on tha clock.. coincidence???
@@denotzgii i think not!! :D
Brilliant video; every rust spot you have identified, I have had to weld or replace with panels (readily purchased from MX5 specialists). Done all the undserseal as well (Dinitrol).
Aww mate, open diffs are not happy days, they suck, if you want to go sideways an lsd is a must have, and im sorry to be such a child but coming out of junctions and roundabouts on opposite lock is just cool, fact! I'm looking for an mx5 just now and I wouldn't buy one without a slipper preferably torsen. Good to see someone make the effort to help others though, well done.
Amazing video. I was looking for a LHD Mx5 NBFL and I think I'm much more confident in going forward with this project. Thank you so much !
My mrs just bought me a 2.5 gor my 40th talk about a mid-life crisis 😂 i love it! Its 65k drives like new. Its not mint but im hopping that iv caught the rust in time obviously dont ever wana sell it
Hmm, I saw a site saying the engine can go 400,000 miles. 150K isn't that much really. I guess it all depends how it was taken care of. I wonder to if it's worth getting a lithium battery when old one goes to save quite a few pounds.
Personally aware of a NA and NB that got over 200k. The lighter lithium battery would affect the touted 50-50 weight balance but would not be noticeable and certainly not worth any perceived advantage given their outrageous price.
thanks for this video awesome. I am in the process of purchasing an MX-5 i checked all the rust spots you mentioned all area's were sound, found water in passenger footwell so the dealer will be sorting that before purchase. so thanks again awesome video
Hey Mike, crucially find out why there is water there. Most likely the top catch or seal around the windscreen area/roof is gone. Matt
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU MATE. SOLID STUFF + You're an awesome presenter. Spider senses tell me you're a LEGEND. Cheers
16:20 is my favorite part
Great video and really informative.
Thanks for taking the time to make.
An really excellent and lengthy video. I learned a lot.
So far the best video and information about the MX5!! Thank you so much for your time and help! I am about to buy an NB 2, 2004, 42.000 kilometers, including hard top for 8.000 Euro. It looks quite good, no rot, new brakes 6000km ago. But I will change at least all oils, filters and the time belt system. A lots of greetings from Austria.
Great video. Just a question : you say the engines are rocksolid but also to walk away from engines with more then 150K so what kinds of issues are to be expected at those 150K plus engines ?
*not a miata owner, i just repeat what i have heard* well firstly the oil leak from the exhaust he mentioned in the video, i have heard about an annoying engine knocking sound that happens for no reason and sometimes changing oil will stop it 🤷🏼♂️ and lastly and a bit more of my opinion, even for a 20yo car i wouldnt trust an engine with 150k miles even if it was the worlds most trustworthy engine
The Mx5 is a true British sports car. Rust and all.
My 99 NBs get about 30mpg and my 02 NB Special Edition gets 33mpg.
Videos like this I want to get info from, set a faster play speed, glad I did great video
Hi Matt,
Great Video, love the attention to detail etc.
My mum bought the MX5 California Limited Edition in 2000, from new when they just come out. Only 500 of these were made. She still has the car but unfortunately due to rot on the nearside front chassis rail and some corrosion to the subframe mounting. The body of the car is not bad for it's age and she wants to keep it. However, I did approached an MX5 restorer in Buckinghamshire who agreed to do the work but due to unforeseen circumstances he unable to commit. There aren't may restorers in the Southeast and they tend to be miles away.
Does anyone on here know of any MX5 restorer ?
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dee
Hi Matt, I just watched your not buying a lemon video. Noticed you mentioned you have about 14 of them. Do you have any for sale (preferably not a lemon lol) great work on the video, was very informative as I’m looking to buy a 2.5
hi Matt love the video! i found it very informative well done!!...
Thank you so much for this very informative video, I have learnt a lot from you.
This is great video, really helpful. I've got a 2.5 1.8i sport as well.
I changed all fluids and filters (not fuel one yet), and brakes, but haven't yet changed the spark plugs. I've no service history so no idea if the plugs are original. Does it really improve the performance to put new ones in? I've put it off as it looks more difficult 😬
Could you recommend good plugs and leads pls? Thank you
Brilliant video I'm hoping to get mine soon
Thanks Luke :)
by any chance would you have any rolling shells?running and driving that have minimal rust ? crash damage whatever aslong as he chassis and suspension is solid?
excellent video, useful for all mx5's. what kind of leather restoration paste are you using?
Great video, tons of knowledge - wondering about the link to the site with MX-5 models though - can't see it in the description...
Very informative.You didn't mention looking out for a seized pilot bearing in the clutch which makes a squealing/scraping sound when engaging disengaging first or reverse and going into neutral..It affects the synchro and can stuff the gearbox if not attended to.Just bought an NB MX5 and had to replace the clutch assembly for this reason.
Does it make the noise all the time, or just when the car's cold?
@@themancuniancandidate2744 Warm or cold.My mechanic showed me the old pilot bearing after replacing the clutch assembly and it was completely seized.
@@tolrem Ta mate. Mine makes a bit of a squeal in first or reverse when it's cold, but goes away almost immediately
@@themancuniancandidate2744 If you let it go too long it affects the synchro because the shaft is moving about.Best to fix it before it does damage.
thanks a lot. you did an amazing job. very informative
Great vid. Any thoughts on ecu chips, are they worth it?
MK1 or MK2 ? Which is best......
I thought the Fuji diff was more popular then Torsen?
Fuji is a plate diff (locking), Torsen uses gears and doesn’t lock the axle.
Learnt a lot from this. Thanks
I think Mazda thought the cars would drive only on dry sunny summer days.
Yea not through winter storms, oh like out August lol
can i put pop-up headlights on a mk2 or mk2.5 thats the question :D
Thank you for the great advice .
Looking at buying one right now. The model's petrol flap doesn't open. Do you know if there's a fix?
Hi mate love your video.
I've just picked a mk2 californa 1.6 light mods.
Is it worth any more being a California?
Thanks
Howdy Ethan, there are a lot less of those (although I did own 3 lol). As for worth more, probably. They're super bright and will only attract a certain type of buyer. Matt
@@RagTheNutsOff Hi do You have a MX5 for sale? Im interested
Great help ! many thanks !
I've just been looking at one, an 03, MK 2.5 Pheonix 1.8, absolutely immaculate, 60k miles, drives like new, same owner last 12 years, garaged every winter but....... Surface rust on the front chassis rails, not bad, but corrosion on the rear arches, back of the sill and inner sills, in fact exactly all the points you mention here. Not very bad, but it will need work. I am still very very tempted, arrrghh what to do?
Walk away
Was that a crack baggie in that California? It may be Hunters crack.
Can you make an MK1 vs MK2 comparison?
Is there anything on hairdressing?
A group of them is known as a "Salon" :D
Gordon had an MX5 -- until he traded it for the new mobile salon.
😴😴😴😴
Dont put hand in if engine is running or hot
that yellow one looks like an 1.8, and intake neck is straight not pointing down, and the lettering on the rocker cover is indented not raised . am i wrong?
No idea this was made a long time ago.
this makes make want to buy this car.
Brilliant vid... thanks
Would you also advise someone too look at these places on an nc
I believe all the 1.8L engines are non-interference. Maybe what you guys in the UK are getting are not that engine.
why is he saying its a 1.6, I thought all nb1s are 1.8 engines? I know nb2 has VVTI but thats about it.
Hi Matt thanks for the video I found this really helpful as I'm looking to purchase my first mx5. As a young driver in order to keep costs down in terms of maintenance insurance etc would the 1.6 over the 1.8 be the better choice as a daily driver? Also, which websites would you recommend to search for mx5s? Cheers
Howdy, the 1.8 can be cheaper to insure than a 1.6 and the MK2.5 have ABS etc... That helps too. The mpg is 250 miles for a 1.8 and around 330 mpg for a 1.6. so it might be more expensive to insure a 1.6, but cheaper to run long term. Hope that helps! As for where to buy, all the usual places, Facebook, Gumtree, eBay...
With all due respect (and you do talk a lot of good sense) 5 speed boxes give up at 225hp. 6 speeds can do up to 400hp.
Lit rallee
Don't get a style bar, they call them mouse traps for a reason 💀
Ziplock baggie under a "California" dirt mat?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Thank you for this - brilliant video! We’ve had an import ‘99 1.8 VS spec auto since 2006. It only ever gets used in the summer and is in great condition but your video is going to help me look for problems and keep it going even longer! Thank you!
imgshare.io/images/2019/08/06/3FE3100F-B630-4E4B-995D-8DD760A7F58F.jpg
+Peter Hedley The MK1 cars don't rot as easily as the MK2 and 2.5 cars. But so check all those areas as they will fonof not looked after. I'm glad it helped you. Matt
you feel like selling your MX-5 ;)
14 of them you say maybe more? Man parked so many mx-5s in the garden strangely that he didn't grow a tree with mx-5s on it.
43 in the end.
I like how the one that looks like a literal lemon isnt a lemon
As a long term MX5 (NB) owner I suggest don't worry about cosmetic upgrades. NB's are tail happy especially when powering out of slow corners, an upgraded front sway bar will tame this and should be number 1 mod. Number 2 is replacing the rubber door blocks with solid polyurethane which will noticeably stiffen the car. The plastic end tanks on the radiator become brittle after many heat soaks and will fail at the worst time leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere - trust me on that - an aluminium radiator is third mod. All 3 are cheap, and super easy to do yourself.
Buy an SLK !
@@curtisducatiYou mean that heavy numb feeling expensive to repair car?
@@curtisducati Buy a BOXSTER!
A couple notes.
The 1.6l and 1.8l blocks are physically different, the 1.8l is not a bored out 1.6l. Stock bore on a 1.6 is 78mm, max is 80mm. 1.8l stock is 83mm, max is 85mm.
The 1.8l VVT block is stronger due to the support girdle.
The best combination for turbocharged applications is a BP4W (NB1) head and a BP6D bottom end (VVT). All can be boosted, all perform well up to 250WHP, the 1.8l will spool a turbo faster than the 1.6l.
The 5 speed box is cheap because they break at 300WHP consistently. The 6 speed box is a physically different case, stronger with stronger gears. They did not just make the gears shorter, its a new design with an overdrive gear.
Howdy Daniel, I didn't know that. I'm sure that will be super helpful to someone looking g to modify their car later on. Matt
Good info, by 300whp, did you mean 300 horse power?
Huge thank you for this, I am looking to get my first Mx-5 and your list of pointers will hopefully make my choice a better one.
16:27 why is there a dime bag on the floor lmao
I bought mine getting on for 5 years ago. A 2003 mk 2.5 in red. (It had to be red!) When I told a mate of mine that everything in my price range had high mileage he replied "Don't worry about that, it's the body-work which is important". I looked at a few and this same guy had a look over my choice for me. I drive it every day and it always makes me smile! I love it! Awesome video Matt!
I really enjoyed the video and learnt a lot about my MX5. Even though I've had it 6 years, I didn't realise that the electric windows, central locking and ABS weren't standard on my MkII.
You are 100% correct on rust, regardless of the price.
I may as well be autistic, but I have watched this video at least 3 times in its entirety in the last year. Partly for entertainment value, partly for the information. Now I have a 1.8 NB with LSD and AC. I love the car!
G'day Matt, thank you so much for this video. I bought a Mk2 yesterday and the knowledge was invaluable. I found one tiny bit of rot behind the boot liner that not even the seller knew was there.
Rust Issues: The primary concern with MX-5s. Matt emphasizes inspecting chassis rails, rear sills, wheel arches, and front wings for rust. Extensive rust is a deal-breaker due to high repair costs.
Engine Reliability: MX-5 engines are generally reliable up to 150,000 miles. High mileage engines might have issues with oil bypassing piston rings, leading to smoke. Regular maintenance can mitigate many issues.
Models and Features: Differences between Mark 2 and Mark 2.5 models are highlighted, such as headlights, central locking, electric windows, and ABS. Understanding these variations is important for informed purchasing.
Servicing Tips Regular servicing is crucial. Matt suggests not to overlook brake fluid, clutch fluid, and wiper blades, and to change differential and gearbox oil regularly.
Fuel Efficiency: There is a brief comparison of fuel efficiency between the 1.6 and 1.8 engines.
Brakes: Check for issues, especially in cars that have been stationary for long periods.
Differentials: Various types are discussed, but for everyday driving, the differential type (open, Torsen, Fuji, etc.) is not a major concern unless used for track days.
Gearboxes: Both 5-speed and 6-speed gearboxes are discussed. The 5-speed is seen as more reliable, though there's little difference in everyday driving.
Roofs: The importance of checking for leaks in both mohair and vinyl roofs is noted. Hard tops should be inspected for cracks.
Written Off Categories: Understanding the UK categories (Category N and S) for written-off vehicles is crucial. Category S (structural damage) vehicles should generally be avoided.
Modifications and Upgrades: Various potential upgrades like stereo systems, LED lights, air filters, and exhaust systems are discussed. Personal preference plays a significant role in these choices.
Buying Tips: Includes checking VIN numbers, doing HPI checks, interviewing the seller, test driving in all gears, and being attentive to vibrations or noises.
I have had a kooky plan in the back of my mind for years, I want to find an Mx5 and drop a rotary under the hood. I know its been done, but the ones I have seen were not done well. I think if it was executed with some patience, and if i built the suspension from the ground up, it could be epic. I have a 13B-RE rotary that has been sitting in my shed for a couple years, I just need to find a good donor body. but alas, finding a good donor in Ohio (aka "The Land of Salt) has proven a challenge. Thanks for pointing out a few spots that i wouldn't have thought to look.
Jack the Aviator in Australia we have an aftermarket V8 version.
Why not get a RX8, basically a NC MX5 with a roof. Already has the motor you want. Find one with a failed motor is easier than finding a driving one.
NO STYLE BARS!! They are known to fold over and crush you and your passenger in a roll-over!! ANYONE WITH A MIATA MUST HAVE A REAL ROLL BAR. PLEASE!!!
FOR THE U.S. VIEWERS..
1) Some NB1 do come with power windows
2) All US NB1/NB2 are 1.8 (only 1.6 came in early NA models)
3) Not all 1.8 are VVT (I have a NB1 1.8 non-VVT)
3) ALL MIATA's have non-interference engines
4) Some early NB1 (possibly only CA spec) have a Pre-Cat exhaust manifold.. This was a poor design and corrected in later models. But might be something to be aware of if you're in the market
Lastly, my 2 cents - A cracked hard top is not a reason to "walk away".. Rather, it may just need a new top. This could be a great bargaining chip as hardtops are fairly pricy
PS.. Did I mention NO STYLE BARS!!!
And if rear ended, a roll bar is reported to be a brain injury risk.
@@cdpbrwr Very true! I use a bucket seat and the back is high enough so that's not a factor.. Passenger seat is stock so I use a thick roll bar padding for that side (could also just position your seat up and away from the bar)
I suppose it doesn't matter if you have a style bar or no bar - in a rollover, you'd be kinda screwed either way. But based on my research, the best chance to survive a rollover is an actual roll bar (or cage.. but probably don't want/need a caged street car)
I respect that everyone gets to decide how they want to modify their own car. But it's important to have these conversations when it comes to safety
@@_GarageThings : With the seat back tilted, the abrupt forward push from the rear-ending causes one to slide upwards in the seat- at least according to the interwebs... Another consideration is the low anchor point for the shoulder straps on Miatas. That's a proven safety hazard (high anchor points were required for hardtops in the 1970's) but it's a plus with a roll bar since it would impede one sliding upwards in the seat.
Hey, maybe belt and suspender it and wear a helmet :-)
This is an amazing video, I am buying my first mx5 this month. Thanks for all the tips
Howdy, I'm glad it's help you. Matt
A basic mx5 for the road doesn't really need a 6th gear , to be honest
A good 1.6 can easily pass 300,000 miles. Though I've seen them do it, most 1.8s are pretty tired by 150k. The 1.6 is a better revving engine, and gets better gas mileage. Agreed as to rust. Bought a parts NA for pocket change; a good running rust bucket. I fixed it, and drove it for many years, but I would have been dollars ahead to leave it a parts car, and buy an unrusted car- they do exist! Also the 1.6 has embossed lettering on the cam cover; the 1.8 has raised. Pay attention to manual window winders; they wear out, bind up, and they are no longer serviced by Mazda.
Funny, the amount of lies 1.6 owners will tell themselves to sleep better at night :)
Is it true that they are a non interference engine so no worries if the Campbelt goes?
Yes. The car just comes to a stop. In the rain. Or snow. At 3am. A thousand miles from home. During an ice storm, when the wait for a wrecker is 3 days. @@mick0846
I've had NAs with both. IMHO, the 1.6 is the more durable engine. It revs better, gets better fuel mileage, and runs longer before it starts using oil. Never blown up a 1.6; I have exploded a 1.8. Granted, it was under 16 lbs boost, no intercooler or engine management. and 160k on the unit@@TheHaferkeks
My first car will be an mx5. Doing my homework. I’m just scared I’ll never be able to go for any other car!
MasterSwag yeah you won’t be able too lol. I had a 99’ Miata that I had for about 7 months last year then sold it bc I wanted something bigger. Went through three cars in the last year just to realize they all suck bc they aren’t a Miata lol
You could just carry a trailer and got space, also pop up trailer work great
Biggest selling point for me with mk2.5 is that they come with OBD2. If you get a mk2, you only get the proprietary mazda port. OBD2 makes faultfinding way easier.
Another car with a bullet proof engine is the V6 Mk 3 mondeo, i drove my last one like it was stolen every single time i got in it for 12 years and the only reason i retired it was the bodywork being battered and i was embarrassed to be seen driving it, was still rust free though.
Loved driving that car so much i searched high and low for a clean example to replace it with and now have another MK3 V6 with 68,000 on it which will last me many more years of being ragged senseless :)
The Duratec v6 has a chain too so no messing about with cam belts!
Hey this video is great! I recently bought an MX-5 without doing all these checks and I got lucky...
However, I was wondering if you could do a video, or you know of any guides, that would be good for rust maintenance?
Thanks!
Hi Freddie, your local garage would be a good start. The videos that are posted about MX5 rust repairs on UA-cam are generally greatly over exaggerated and chase minor surface rust on inner panels by cutting out whole chunks using an angle grinder, it's crazy. So a local garage would be best as they'll offer you no BS advice normally. Matt
Seems you could prevent a lot of "rot" by oiling the underside or just not driving it in winter.
My parents gave me a $5000 budget, I can get a used miata once I have my liscence in a few months, I'll get to learn manual in it, then it'll be for the most part, mine. I'm right at the start of this video and I know this is going to be a great help!
Did you get one?
Hi, gonna look at a mk2.5 1.6 with 104k this is very helpful video many thanks👍
25:20 Not 99%, all 1999 and 2000 are without VVT and they are special in how the internal computer handles the engine, you can see a great comparison at:
m.ua-cam.com/video/MLhlKh6hDS8/v-deo.html
Haha! Love the surprise baggy @16:25 :D LOL
I’ve just bought a nb with 24000 on the clock garaged in mint condition but it’s got a boss stereo and wanted apple car play but apparently it’s a nightmare to fit…I live nr westbury…might check these guys out