It would be interesting if you would show those two "watered" catasetums this coming fall/winter to see how they bloom. I have to buy into the dry time in the spring because most all plants will produce longer wandering roots when dry, searching for water. Thus making for a healthier plant during it's growing cycle.(A trick my grandfather taught me a hundred years ago about vegetable gardening and how to get high yields) It'll be interesting to see how all these do this year. I had told you in a comment a few weeks ago that one of my catasetums got watered by accident when I forgot to move it. The roots on that one are still growing, nearing the bottom of the pot now. So that one TOO will be interesting to see the results this fall. Thanks.
For sure. I remember the greenhouse manager telling me last year that Catasetum types don't do well for them, but there were some in bloom over the winter. But then again, mine didn't do well and didn't bloom at all last year! So we will see!
Cattleya schilleriana for a long time used to be a huge favourite of mine but I always thought I will kill any cattleya I lay my hands on. Since I did manage to bloom a few now I am inspired to try it 😊
Hi William, I am following your advice to the letter; I acquired a Fredclarkeara After Dark SVO Back Cherry 03.04.2019 and noticed the media was damp, so I immediately repotted it and have not introduced any water yet! The roots are developing and searching down into the pot. I live in England by the way. Great videos and so informative, thank you.
My catasetums with only 1 backbulb are super shriveled and most of the roots are about 4 inches long, so I've been giving them about 3 jets from a squirt bottle about once a week since 2 weeks ago; it doesn't seem to have stunted root growth (although it seems like it's not anywhere near the amount of water that those other catasetums are getting).
It sounds like you're doing it right to me. I would guess that soaking the roots prematurely might have a negative effect on root development, but a small amount of moisture as you are giving them would be fine. Please let us know how they grow for you?
Great video and I love the experiment with the Fdk! It's one thing to tell folks about watering too early and it's quite another to show them! Good stuff. I'm curious to see the long term effects as well.
I will be keeping an eye on those MM's for sure. If i can prove to the greenhouse owners that a dry period really does result in healthier plants *with more flowers*, i might be able to convince them to dedicate a small corner of the greenhouse to dormant plants which does not get watered.
If your Cattleyas don't bloom after 8 years, first thing to check is if you have enough light for them. Hard to guess without knowing the conditions you are growing them, but if not light, increasing P levels will possibly help. Very beautiful Schilleriana your friend has (that's an species that requires a bit less light than other bifoliate Cattleyas, btw).
Nice update! Like your paph appletonium, is it sequential bloomer? or one bloom per fan? Looking forward to see your neofinitia bloom! thanks for sharing.
Your orchids are looking so healthy. I noticed on the Antennae Bulbophyllum what appeared to be a bug (a centipede perhaps) as I have recently acquired a masdevallia with these bugs also. Just wondering if these are damaging to the plant?
new growth rotting sounds like calcium deficiecy. Even if not, however, it will help build stronger cells which will make the plant more resistant to pests and disease. Probably can't hurt.
@@MyGreenPets You're welcome. I mean, I've never heard of new growth tip dieback from Calcium deficiency in any genus but Cattleya, and while you will always read that Calcium is immobile, that's not exactly 100% true for all plants. I believe that either Cattleyas need far more calcium than other genera or that Cattleyas are just the worst at translocating cal to the new growth. I suspect the latter is true because some species of wheat (monocots, like orchids) can translocate up to 70% of calcium to the new growth. In Phals if I am not mistaken, Calcium def presents as distorted leaves and it looks like one or more of the bulbo leaves has some distortion. I also noticed that hal has some leaf tip dieback..looks like an older growth. If it is an older growth, that could be a lack of K, especially with the plant blooming so frequently. If that is still moving down the leaf blade, you could try hitting it once with something as simple as MG bloom boost once to see if that stops it. If not, you won't be overdosing too much on K, but that kind of dieback can be seen when a plant is in spike/bloom and it is somewhat fast. However, if that is the plant you are getting new growth rotting on, I'd recommend application of Cal the week before as these two nutrients are antagonistic to eachother. Also, I am sure you are aware of this, but if not, factors that facilitate calcium deficiency include low pH from old mix for example, not enough water (plant can't take up or move cal without water present), inadequate air movement (same reason but because plant can't transpire and therefore can't take up the moisture and cal if present), and high temps. especially at night (metabolism is too fast and plant can't move cal to where it is needed fast enough). That all said, your plants look very nice and I know you're a good grower and are very knowledgeable, so I hope this is not too redundant. Oh-but the thing I wanted to say about calcium most that I rarely read about is that sodium is also antagonistic to Calcium. Sodium is often present in high amounts in LECA and when RO membranes begin to fail, sodium is one of the first salts to start coming though. I also suspect that it is one of the first salts to start coming through in TDS creep, when an RO system has not been running for a little while and the TDS readings creep up because the osmotic potential on each side of the membrane wants to equalize, so if there is a tank hooked up to the RO system, simply matching the TDS of the RO water with the same TDS of calcium will help mitigate the damage that the sodium would otherwise be causing.
I have some questions about the cattleya in the beginning, I can’t seem to find answers to and I can’t get anyone to answer lol on any platform. If you see this and maybe have any extra info it would be much obliged. I received one for Mother’s Day last year, I had three growths with several blooms on each. I since then have only gained one new growth and haven’t had any activity since. Is this normal? ty in advance
I have never grown Cattleya schilleriana but here's an article from the AOS about it... www.google.com/url?q=www.aos.org/orchids/collectors-items/cattleya-schilleriana.aspx&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiKs8ONgOLvAhVKjp4KHQ5DDNYQFjAVegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw2izepdvVgXKKf77FWI0I78
A single bulb, yes, if it is looked after properly it will produce a small growth, then bigger, then bigger. Will take a few growths (and possibly years) to get up to blooming size.
I admire the beauty of those Cattleyas...
Thank you so much...Sir!!
Beautiful Schilleriana! Glad to see your collection looking so wonderful!
Hey, thank you so much for stopping by!! Thank you!!
That morning glory is amazing...
It would be interesting if you would show those two "watered" catasetums this coming fall/winter to see how they bloom. I have to buy into the dry time in the spring because most all plants will produce longer wandering roots when dry, searching for water. Thus making for a healthier plant during it's growing cycle.(A trick my grandfather taught me a hundred years ago about vegetable gardening and how to get high yields) It'll be interesting to see how all these do this year. I had told you in a comment a few weeks ago that one of my catasetums got watered by accident when I forgot to move it. The roots on that one are still growing, nearing the bottom of the pot now. So that one TOO will be interesting to see the results this fall. Thanks.
For sure. I remember the greenhouse manager telling me last year that Catasetum types don't do well for them, but there were some in bloom over the winter. But then again, mine didn't do well and didn't bloom at all last year! So we will see!
That’s so beautiful! Thank you for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed!!
Cattleya schilleriana for a long time used to be a huge favourite of mine but I always thought I will kill any cattleya I lay my hands on. Since I did manage to bloom a few now I am inspired to try it 😊
Only one way to find out!
Hi William, I am following your advice to the letter; I acquired a Fredclarkeara After Dark SVO Back Cherry 03.04.2019 and noticed the media was damp, so I immediately repotted it and have not introduced any water yet! The roots are developing and searching down into the pot. I live in England by the way. Great videos and so informative, thank you.
I'l start watering when I see several roots pushing the bottom!
Половину не понимаю,но голос великолепный 😍 и растения тоже!
Спасибо
My catasetums with only 1 backbulb are super shriveled and most of the roots are about 4 inches long, so I've been giving them about 3 jets from a squirt bottle about once a week since 2 weeks ago; it doesn't seem to have stunted root growth (although it seems like it's not anywhere near the amount of water that those other catasetums are getting).
It sounds like you're doing it right to me. I would guess that soaking the roots prematurely might have a negative effect on root development, but a small amount of moisture as you are giving them would be fine. Please let us know how they grow for you?
Great video and I love the experiment with the Fdk! It's one thing to tell folks about watering too early and it's quite another to show them! Good stuff. I'm curious to see the long term effects as well.
I will be keeping an eye on those MM's for sure. If i can prove to the greenhouse owners that a dry period really does result in healthier plants *with more flowers*, i might be able to convince them to dedicate a small corner of the greenhouse to dormant plants which does not get watered.
My Green Pets Excellent idea!!
I like yours orchid, is amazing 👍🏽
muchas gracias!
If your Cattleyas don't bloom after 8 years, first thing to check is if you have enough light for them. Hard to guess without knowing the conditions you are growing them, but if not light, increasing P levels will possibly help. Very beautiful Schilleriana your friend has (that's an species that requires a bit less light than other bifoliate Cattleyas, btw).
They are seedlings, Robert. I received the flask in 2014. Looking for first blooms this year.
Really Beautiful but we just watch the wonder episode but no chance to get pl keep it up
I'm glad at least you can enjoy them through the videos!
Nice update! Like your paph appletonium, is it sequential bloomer? or one bloom per fan? Looking forward to see your neofinitia bloom! thanks for sharing.
Appletonianum looks like only one at a time, at least for now. V falcata will hopefully bloom in June or July. Thanks for watching!
Your orchids are looking so healthy. I noticed on the Antennae Bulbophyllum what appeared to be a bug (a centipede perhaps) as I have recently acquired a masdevallia with these bugs also. Just wondering if these are damaging to the plant?
Yes it looks like maybe a little gnat, i don't think they do any harm to the plant.
Thanks for sharing!
Hope you enjoyed it :)
new growth rotting sounds like calcium deficiecy. Even if not, however, it will help build stronger cells which will make the plant more resistant to pests and disease. Probably can't hurt.
Thank you!
@@MyGreenPets You're welcome. I mean, I've never heard of new growth tip dieback from Calcium deficiency in any genus but Cattleya, and while you will always read that Calcium is immobile, that's not exactly 100% true for all plants. I believe that either Cattleyas need far more calcium than other genera or that Cattleyas are just the worst at translocating cal to the new growth. I suspect the latter is true because some species of wheat (monocots, like orchids) can translocate up to 70% of calcium to the new growth. In Phals if I am not mistaken, Calcium def presents as distorted leaves and it looks like one or more of the bulbo leaves has some distortion. I also noticed that hal has some leaf tip dieback..looks like an older growth. If it is an older growth, that could be a lack of K, especially with the plant blooming so frequently. If that is still moving down the leaf blade, you could try hitting it once with something as simple as MG bloom boost once to see if that stops it. If not, you won't be overdosing too much on K, but that kind of dieback can be seen when a plant is in spike/bloom and it is somewhat fast. However, if that is the plant you are getting new growth rotting on, I'd recommend application of Cal the week before as these two nutrients are antagonistic to eachother. Also, I am sure you are aware of this, but if not, factors that facilitate calcium deficiency include low pH from old mix for example, not enough water (plant can't take up or move cal without water present), inadequate air movement (same reason but because plant can't transpire and therefore can't take up the moisture and cal if present), and high temps. especially at night (metabolism is too fast and plant can't move cal to where it is needed fast enough). That all said, your plants look very nice and I know you're a good grower and are very knowledgeable, so I hope this is not too redundant. Oh-but the thing I wanted to say about calcium most that I rarely read about is that sodium is also antagonistic to Calcium. Sodium is often present in high amounts in LECA and when RO membranes begin to fail, sodium is one of the first salts to start coming though. I also suspect that it is one of the first salts to start coming through in TDS creep, when an RO system has not been running for a little while and the TDS readings creep up because the osmotic potential on each side of the membrane wants to equalize, so if there is a tank hooked up to the RO system, simply matching the TDS of the RO water with the same TDS of calcium will help mitigate the damage that the sodium would otherwise be causing.
Yes, yes, yes 😍
😁💚🌿👍🏻
I have some questions about the cattleya in the beginning, I can’t seem to find answers to and I can’t get anyone to answer lol on any platform. If you see this and maybe have any extra info it would be much obliged. I received one for Mother’s Day last year, I had three growths with several blooms on each. I since then have only gained one new growth and haven’t had any activity since. Is this normal? ty in advance
I have never grown Cattleya schilleriana but here's an article from the AOS about it... www.google.com/url?q=www.aos.org/orchids/collectors-items/cattleya-schilleriana.aspx&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiKs8ONgOLvAhVKjp4KHQ5DDNYQFjAVegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw2izepdvVgXKKf77FWI0I78
Catasetum culture video - ua-cam.com/video/lb6OWdTXpwo/v-deo.html
I'm curious with the bulbo echolab, I purchased a single bulb u think it will grow for me
A single bulb, yes, if it is looked after properly it will produce a small growth, then bigger, then bigger. Will take a few growths (and possibly years) to get up to blooming size.
@@MyGreenPets yes shes pushing out a new growth
😍😍
😁💚